*** Want to use the same tools im using from this video ?? Click on the amazon links*** 10 piece extension kit- amzn.to/3uEQdVc Automotive Pick Tool- amzn.to/3LF6Gis Oil Pressure Socket- amzn.to/3u2QgKy 1/4 Swivel Ratchet- amzn.to/3qUK8lN
From all DIY videos, this is the first one that goes straight to the point, nice tricks and no BS involved, like no personal ideas or life experiences, no useless elevator music. Thank you Sir.
The BEST VIDEO ON THIS JOB... i just replaced mine on a 2013 XL Yukon so hard... but Dealership wants $525 labor and charges $210 an hour...The Dealership told me they want to remove the intake manifold that is just the way they do this job WOW... no parts extra money... now i did not remove the brake booster hose i did not know how ... but it is right in the way made so much harder. and that plug would not unclip. it took a lot of work to remove the plug. saw some videos on how to do it. but it was just stuck on there. i just kept on trying and it did come off so lucky for that..... but the real problem was pressure was still at ZERO so i saw a video that said just unplug the BATTERY AND WAIT A FEW MINS AND THEN OIL PRESSURE DASH GAUGE RESET IT SELF OR THE COMPUTER THEN IT STARTED WORKING GOOD yep after all that work and still no luck i did unplug battery and then it was working good... [Before i started this big job ] i did try to just unplug battery and see if was okay then and no did not help... yep you got to get Dealer only parts .... and change out that screen that is the main thing...
there are at least 10 other video"s on the oil sensor replacement, and yours is the only one that shows specifically how to remove the booster vacuum hose, after spending an hour trying to work with it in place I got out my pick and released the hose as instructed, finished it up in 30 minutes after that.. Glad I went back till I found your video. Thank you.
THE VID I WATCHED B4 THIS ONE. HE REMOVED THE FUEL LINES , THROTTLE BODY , FUSES , BATTERY CABLES, ABOUT 16 HOSES , AND THE INTAKE. GOD BLESS YOU SIR . THIS VID IS HANDS DOWN THE BEST ONE OUT THERE. THX
Just did this job a few days ago. I found a 6" extension with a fine-tooth ratchet works w/o removing stuff. Also, a easy way to remove the screen is to use a 5/16" bolt or lag screw. of any length you like. I find a 2-3" size works for me. Just screw it in a couple turns and pull it out. Eazy peasy.
Dude you are my hero. I was having the hardest time trying to get my socket/extension onto the sensor. Then I found your video about removing the vacuum line. I was thinking it was screwed into the intake. Popping it off was easy and opened everything up. Thank you very much for the tip.
@@OzMechanics when I search for one for my truck it shows a longer sensor, store brand and ac delco. Part # D1818A on oreillys page. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 5.3
This is the third time I've serviced one of these switches and yours is the first video that showed the tip on removing the brake booster hose. GREAT TIP! Including the diagrams to show components and locations was a big plus too. Especially for anyone doing this for the first time. THX 👍
I' so glad I found this video before I undid the fuel lines and everything else. I found out the hard way there is NO way around getting the hose off without a 90 degree pick. After that it was still a pain but just because I'm not a great mechanic. Thanks for the great video!
2013 Sierra here. Getting the plug with the clip undone was a PITA!! Finally had to remove clip to allow access to button. Removing that hose did help a ton! Watched this vid a couple times and got the job done. Thanks for posting!
THANK YOU , i HAD TO REPLACE MINE TODAY ON MY 2007 SILVERADO, YOUR INFORMATION WAS RIGHT ON THE MONEY,#1 thing , get your booster hose out of the way, makes the access so much easier
I just replaced the oil pressure sender on my 09 Chev Avalanche with 5.3L. Works great now. Old one was reading Very low, almost 0 KPA and got warning/ fast chime “Low Oil Pressure, turn engine off”. This happened after my truck was sitting for 2 months (bitter cold outside) and then battery was completely discharged (don’t think it is related, just coincidence). This video was the most helpful for me, as other ones have you remove intake manifold.
Just finished this job. Soooo releived it wasnt my bearings! My tips. It took me 3-4 hours. It takes forever but its not hard. My 09 eacalade did not have a screen. Theres 2 different sensors make sure you buy the correct one for your year and make. I did not remove ANY hoses or lines. Just put your extention between the hoses. The other hard issue was disconnecting the connection for me i had to slide a clip of plastic UP, then I had to push in on the button in the middle of the sliding clip and pull up. Theres different style connections so look up how to remove your exact one first. I used a step stool also. Good luck! If you get stuck leave the job and come back the next day fresh. The service guide says this job takes 0.9 hours. It took me 4 hours the first time and now Id say I can do it in about 20 mins. It was all worth it to find out I didnt need a new engine. Its scary not knowing. Now Im back to 35psi at idol and 43 on the highway. My escalade was going nuts about low pressure stop the engine immediately etc. If your gauge says constant low like 14psi thats bad if its saying 35, 75, 138, ---, 22, 70 etc thats for sure the sender or a wire. Only buy the AC delco brand sender, i would advise against the no name china knockoffs, you never want to replace this sender ever again. Also you MUST buy the sender socket, it has rounded edges and fits the connector, a regular deep socket 27mm or 1 1/16 wont be rounded and only about 50% of them will fit the connector all the way in and not too far in. Just get it its $11. Go slow, dont get mad, be patient and youll get it done. Youll need a wobble extension or a 6" extension with u-joint or swivel. May the force be with you!
Great video on replacing the sensor. It was a big help on changing mine. What really helped was removing the hose from the brake booster which gave me enough clearance to gain access to it. I also bought the socket that fits this sensor. Thanks!
I think pulling the brake booster hose off is a good idea clears up a clean shot at the sensor, my dads truck is having a low oil pressure situation and this repair is on our list of things to do this weekend.
Great video! I didn’t have a pic so I taped a bent staple to the end of a small screwdriver and fished out the screen for anybody who is realizing They don’t have one halfway through the job.
I like you approach by taking off the brake booster hose so you can get to the oil pressure switch a lot easier than the other Video s I have watched, thanks
Nice video. I didn't disconnect anything. I used a 3 inch extension and a couple of socket adapters to bring to perfect height. NO UNIVERSAL swivel joint. A long bolt screwed in will take that screen out easy...Use same bolt to install screen.....Took me about 10-15 mins or less.
Heck you made that look pretty easy. In fact, yours looked like it was straight down unlike some others where they appear to be on a slight angle and tighter spot. I will be doing my 2011 Avalanche soon, hope it goes as easy.
You are good, thank you very much..wont be easy for me but i going to try. I am 64 with bad back and leg, lol probably be laid up for a week after doing this leaning over to fix it. But i have always been a diy guy since i was 14...thank you very much..take care and gid bless
Well done man u saved my ass its 2022 almost Christmas and I dint have the money to pay sombody to do this your video was to the point great step by step tool presentation part location and diagram best video I found . I appritiate it man!!! And u did all that and did it well in under 10 Mins 6.47 to be exact well done!
Me and my friends just did this the long way which involved removing the entire intake manifold and it was a bitch. We replaced the sensor only to find that the low oil pressure message didn’t go away. Then we figure out that there is a mesh under that damn sensor that no one mentioned in any other video and now there is the possibility that it’s clogged and that might be blocking the readings to the sensor. So hopefully that’s all it is and not a bad oil pump. Cheers.
On my 2007 5.3L Tahoe, there is a hole in the bottom of the plastic shroud (the same shroud the brake booster hose passes through) through which you can see - but can't really access - the pressure sensor. At least it's helpful in homing the socket and in seeing the orientation of the plug when you go to clip it back in. I dropped the new sensor when trying to get it seated. I wish I'd tied a rubber band around the plastic connector with a cow hitch then wore the tag end around my wrist. It took 20 minutes and the skin on two knuckles to get it out. 5/16" bolt idea didn't work as it got no purchase on the filter. I used a pick like OZ. Worked fine. There's an armored hose - I think A/C related - that you work outside of at all times. That is, on the dashboard side of the hose not on the inside of the bend. There is a spring clip on the brake booster connector but just ignore that. There is no need to fool with the spring clip if you just work the connector back as far as it can go, then push the red thing in and tug on the hose.
I changed mine yesterday. I got some picks but the point on my 90⁰ was too long and kept slipping of the tab on the brake booster connection. So I just worked around the booster hose. It was kind of in the way but not really worth messing around with if it doesn't come off easily. I won't even bother with if I have to do one again. Having your socket on a swivel head or knuckle makes the job easy once you figure out how to reach it.
Thanks bro cool video. I thought I was going to have to pull the intake manifold and I didn't know there was a screen. You da Man !!! ✌👍🤠 Ken Boise, Idaho.
We look forward to seeing you in Atlanta for NACE Automechanika this August 8 - 10! Discover the latest products, technology, tools and equipment hitting the market! You'll also have the opportunity to get trained by the experts at various mechanical, collision repair and managerial classes! Be sure to register at www.naceautomechanika.com/in1
Tyron Zepol you sound like a little insecure little punk lmao just cause she’s a lady, she’s not qualified or her advise isn’t valid? You’re a joke lol
@@chuylopez8793 well well well little man, I'm not only good looking but I also work on my 1980 Chevy K5 Blazer, which I recently swapped out my 350 to 305 so I can rebuild my 350.... If you want some tips on how to work on your rig, just let me know!!... now stop being a prick and man up!!
If you ever have your engine removed for any reason it is a good idea to replace the plastic oil gallery barbell with a billet unit from sac city corvette. They have a tighter fit to prevent dirty oil from bypassing the oil filter.
Moving that hose out the way made this job even more a breeze thanks for that info bro... don't know wtf was up with the old sensor but I had to force that sensor socket on it for whatever reason. Other than that it was a straight forward little job
This is the best vid by far on this repair. Kudos to you bruh. On a side note. They make a special socket for this sensor. I ordered it for like $6-7 it’s made by lisle 1-1/6. I’ll sub.....
Just a little tip for anyone out there that the screen is stuck and won't come out with the pick.... I was able to thread a 5/16 course thread eye bolt into the screen and apply enough pressure to pop it out. Don't thread it in too far or it will expand the screen and just add to the problem. Just get it in snug and then give it a pull while wiggling it back and forth. The truck I was working on was a 2013 with 160k. Lots of heat cycles and pretty sure it has never been done before. Thanks again Oz!!
Carbon!!, I got tired of replacing oil pumps and sensors and found if you pour about half a gallon of berreymans chem dip in the oil when its cool, fire it up, hold the rpm about 1500, you will notice the oil pressure increase right away. Run it up to about 200 degrees, shut it down, and repeat the run up after it cools several times. I like to have 3 days if possible doing this, drain oil, remove filter and blow air back through the two passages the filter uses on the engine. I've done as many as four a week. It also works for decarbonizing the pistons and rings on the 4cyl Gm's that have oil usage problems. Anyhow that's the trick I found works for me.
Super informative. I feel confident tackling this job tomorrow. Too bad my 11 avalanche is lifted 7.5" and my back hurts like a mr fr. But hey thats Trucklife💯👍👍
Hi. I wanted to know before you replaced the oil sensor and oil sensor screen, was the engine making ticking and knocking sounds, and was the oil gauge needle going up and down on that vehicle?
They should beat the engineers ass who thought about putting the sending unit in this spot. It was perfect on the side of the block. Also does a 2006 have this screen?
Your video is the best I have seen. Your diagrams show exactly where the sensor is located. I don't know exactly how you got your camera into such a tight space but this is the first time I have seen the actual sensor and wiring harness connected to the block. I am definitely going to change out my sensor and screen. I do have to ask one question. Were you standing on a step stool when you removed the sensor? One guy actually sat in the engine apartment when he changed the sensor but I know there is no way I could ever do that. Thanks for making this video.
I laid a moving blanket over the radiator support,and used a step stool to get me up there.Then I knelt on the core support,and put my left arm on the plastic intake manifold.I did the work with my Right hand.
This is the problem. I disconnected my sensor and drove it with fresh oil change. The gauge reads 0 but engine is good, but replaced everything ( screen and sensor) and fixed. The other video I saw was easier than this , he didn't remove anything and use a bolt to remove the screen.
What symptoms would lead you to replace the sensor and filter or screen? I have an 05 Silverado that is running great however I have low oil pressure reading at idle and at highway speed’s but I can’t find any indication of leaks or anything else like that.
same here , i changed the sensor before , and now needs it again, this time i changed it it wont maintain i high idel eventually get low and triggets alarm again!?
Checked with the local dealer in town.. they wanted to charge me $400.00 , stated they needed to take off the intake to replace the sending unit.. I completed this in 45 min... most of that time was spent getting the hose off above the sensor... That is the only one you need to remove to get the sensor out... don't let anyone else fool you...
They do this very same procedure and still charge you for the intake removal!!! I know first hand I've worked for GM dealers my hole life it pissies me off big time that they pull this shit its wrong so wrong!!! By the way the mechanic only gets his hourly pay unless it's a flat rate shop which I worked for once an saw the rip off that the customer's get I couldn't stand it and quit got a different job at an hourly rate dealer!!!
Primo pregunta importante si compras el sensor para una misma chevy silverado pero no estas seguro que motor es, y compras en sensor equivocado pero si le queda a la troca funciona o no.
I recently changed mine out but don't recall changing the connector sleeve out. Since putting the new one on it still has low oil pressure. Before I go and dig out the oil pump would you say that sleeve could be my problem?
Just did mine. a small lag bolt that just fits in the new one works perfect for the screen. just thread it in a thread or 2 by hand and it pulls right out
*** Want to use the same tools im using from this video ?? Click on the amazon links***
10 piece extension kit- amzn.to/3uEQdVc
Automotive Pick Tool- amzn.to/3LF6Gis
Oil Pressure Socket- amzn.to/3u2QgKy
1/4 Swivel Ratchet- amzn.to/3qUK8lN
From all DIY videos, this is the first one that goes straight to the point, nice tricks and no BS involved, like no personal ideas or life experiences, no useless elevator music. Thank you Sir.
I’ve watched a ton of videos on this and you’re the only ones that’s included a diagram and video of the location of the sensor. Thank you for that!!
Totally agree !!!
Not to mention the hose removal. HUGE !!!
The BEST VIDEO ON THIS JOB... i just replaced mine on a 2013 XL Yukon so hard... but Dealership wants $525 labor and charges $210 an hour...The Dealership told me they want to remove the intake manifold that is just the way they do this job WOW... no parts extra money... now i did not remove the brake booster hose i did not know how ... but it is right in the way made so much harder. and that plug would not unclip. it took a lot of work to remove the plug. saw some videos on how to do it. but it was just stuck on there. i just kept on trying and it did come off so lucky for that..... but the real problem was pressure was still at ZERO so i saw a video that said just unplug the BATTERY AND WAIT A FEW MINS AND THEN OIL PRESSURE DASH GAUGE RESET IT SELF OR THE COMPUTER THEN IT STARTED WORKING GOOD yep after all that work and still no luck i did unplug battery and then it was working good... [Before i started this big job ] i did try to just unplug battery and see if was okay then and no did not help... yep you got to get Dealer only parts .... and change out that screen that is the main thing...
there are at least 10 other video"s on the oil sensor replacement, and yours is the only one that shows specifically how to remove the booster vacuum hose, after spending an hour trying to work with it in place I got out my pick and released the hose as instructed, finished it up in 30 minutes after that.. Glad I went back till I found your video.
Thank you.
THE VID I WATCHED B4 THIS ONE. HE REMOVED THE FUEL LINES , THROTTLE BODY , FUSES , BATTERY CABLES, ABOUT 16 HOSES , AND THE INTAKE. GOD BLESS YOU SIR . THIS VID IS HANDS DOWN THE BEST ONE OUT THERE. THX
Tweek awesome. Glad you loved the video
Just did this job a few days ago. I found a 6" extension with a fine-tooth ratchet works w/o removing stuff. Also, a easy way to remove the screen is to use a 5/16" bolt or lag screw. of any length you like. I find a 2-3" size works for me. Just screw it in a couple turns and pull it out. Eazy peasy.
Your a life saver 🙏
Dude you are my hero. I was having the hardest time trying to get my socket/extension onto the sensor. Then I found your video about removing the vacuum line. I was thinking it was screwed into the intake. Popping it off was easy and opened everything up. Thank you very much for the tip.
Dave H. Awesome. Glad this video helped out bud
@@OzMechanics when I search for one for my truck it shows a longer sensor, store brand and ac delco. Part # D1818A on oreillys page. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 5.3
This is the best video on this oil pressure sensor out there. Way to put it together and edit. Thank you very helpful.
This is the third time I've serviced one of these switches and yours is the first video that showed the tip on removing the brake booster hose. GREAT TIP! Including the diagrams to show components and locations was a big plus too. Especially for anyone doing this for the first time. THX 👍
Best video ever on Oil Pressure switch gm vehicles
I switched from GMC to Toyota about 10 years ago, and I am glad I did!
I' so glad I found this video before I undid the fuel lines and everything else. I found out the hard way there is NO way around getting the hose off without a 90 degree pick. After that it was still a pain but just because I'm not a great mechanic. Thanks for the great video!
2013 Sierra here. Getting the plug with the clip undone was a PITA!! Finally had to remove clip to allow access to button. Removing that hose did help a ton! Watched this vid a couple times and got the job done. Thanks for posting!
I’m glad this video helped out.
THANK YOU , i HAD TO REPLACE MINE TODAY ON MY 2007 SILVERADO, YOUR INFORMATION WAS RIGHT ON THE MONEY,#1 thing , get your booster hose out of the way, makes the access so much easier
I just replaced the oil pressure sender on my 09 Chev Avalanche with 5.3L. Works great now. Old one was reading Very low, almost 0 KPA and got warning/ fast chime “Low Oil Pressure, turn engine off”. This happened after my truck was sitting for 2 months (bitter cold outside) and then battery was completely discharged (don’t think it is related, just coincidence). This video was the most helpful for me, as other ones have you remove intake manifold.
Just finished this job. Soooo releived it wasnt my bearings! My tips. It took me 3-4 hours. It takes forever but its not hard. My 09 eacalade did not have a screen. Theres 2 different sensors make sure you buy the correct one for your year and make. I did not remove ANY hoses or lines. Just put your extention between the hoses. The other hard issue was disconnecting the connection for me i had to slide a clip of plastic UP, then I had to push in on the button in the middle of the sliding clip and pull up. Theres different style connections so look up how to remove your exact one first. I used a step stool also. Good luck! If you get stuck leave the job and come back the next day fresh. The service guide says this job takes 0.9 hours. It took me 4 hours the first time and now Id say I can do it in about 20 mins. It was all worth it to find out I didnt need a new engine. Its scary not knowing. Now Im back to 35psi at idol and 43 on the highway. My escalade was going nuts about low pressure stop the engine immediately etc. If your gauge says constant low like 14psi thats bad if its saying 35, 75, 138, ---, 22, 70 etc thats for sure the sender or a wire. Only buy the AC delco brand sender, i would advise against the no name china knockoffs, you never want to replace this sender ever again. Also you MUST buy the sender socket, it has rounded edges and fits the connector, a regular deep socket 27mm or 1 1/16 wont be rounded and only about 50% of them will fit the connector all the way in and not too far in. Just get it its $11. Go slow, dont get mad, be patient and youll get it done. Youll need a wobble extension or a 6" extension with u-joint or swivel. May the force be with you!
Mann this was wayyyyy better than the other videos where the remove the whole engine just to get to the switch 🤦🏿♂️. Great job bro
Great video on replacing the sensor. It was a big help on changing mine. What really helped was removing the hose from the brake booster which gave me enough clearance to gain access to it. I also bought the socket that fits this sensor. Thanks!
I think pulling the brake booster hose off is a good idea clears up a clean shot at the sensor, my dads truck is having a low oil pressure situation and this repair is on our list of things to do this weekend.
This was perfect… great demonstration, schematics, straight to the point. Helped me a ton. Thank you.
Best vid for this issue. I’ve seen a lot and this one explains it the best.
Really glad you liked this video ambioris. Thanks for watching
Great video, a door panel clip remover works really well in pushing the hose retainer in. Which makes disconnecting the hose a breeze.
Great video! I didn’t have a pic so I taped a bent staple to the end of a small screwdriver and fished out the screen for anybody who is realizing They don’t have one halfway through the job.
I couldn't get the screen out.
You did an excellent job of showing the oil pressure switch (in its installed position). Thanks.
Thanks for watching. Just notice some people taking out the the intake to do this job
How to blee brake on 95 camro
@@OzMechanics is it safe to drive my 2008 Chevy Tahoe with a bad oil sending unit
@@r-luvbham6608 a bit late. But it's not a good idea to drive any vehicle if you do not know if the oil pressure is good or not.
Definitely the best video I have seen to replace this. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
I like you approach by taking off the brake booster hose so you can get to the oil pressure switch a lot easier than the other Video s I have watched, thanks
THANK YOU. It was actually a fairly simple job - ONCE you showed me how to do it. You saved me a lot of time and work.
Good to hear that glad everything worked out good for you
Nice video. I didn't disconnect anything. I used a 3 inch extension and a couple of socket adapters to bring to perfect height. NO UNIVERSAL swivel joint. A long bolt screwed in will take that screen out easy...Use same bolt to install screen.....Took me about 10-15 mins or less.
Ubmixin B good to hear
What diameter and length bolt to take the screen out ?
Heck you made that look pretty easy. In fact, yours looked like it was straight down unlike some others where they appear to be on a slight angle and tighter spot. I will be doing my 2011 Avalanche soon, hope it goes as easy.
You da Man OzzIE . I missed with this till my shoulder fell off then I saw this removes the hose and....Voila ! Done
I guess it's quite off topic but does anybody know a good website to watch newly released movies online?
@Juan Travis I would suggest Flixzone. You can find it on google =)
@Case Grey definitely, have been using FlixZone for since april myself :)
@Case Grey thank you, signed up and it seems like a nice service :D Appreciate it !
@Juan Travis you are welcome :)
Thank you it’s the easiest way took 35 minutes great video
Glad this video helped out. Thanks for watching
You are good, thank you very much..wont be easy for me but i going to try. I am 64 with bad back and leg, lol probably be laid up for a week after doing this leaning over to fix it. But i have always been a diy guy since i was 14...thank you very much..take care and gid bless
Well done man u saved my ass its 2022 almost Christmas and I dint have the money to pay sombody to do this your video was to the point great step by step tool presentation part location and diagram best video I found . I appritiate it man!!! And u did all that and did it well in under 10 Mins 6.47 to be exact well done!
By far the best video an explanation for this problem....
Me and my friends just did this the long way which involved removing the entire intake manifold and it was a bitch. We replaced the sensor only to find that the low oil pressure message didn’t go away. Then we figure out that there is a mesh under that damn sensor that no one mentioned in any other video and now there is the possibility that it’s clogged and that might be blocking the readings to the sensor. So hopefully that’s all it is and not a bad oil pump. Cheers.
Was it jest the screen?
@@Fordtruckin69 Yes it ended up being just the screen. The old one was plugged solid.
On my 2007 5.3L Tahoe, there is a hole in the bottom of the plastic shroud (the same shroud the brake booster hose passes through) through which you can see - but can't really access - the pressure sensor. At least it's helpful in homing the socket and in seeing the orientation of the plug when you go to clip it back in. I dropped the new sensor when trying to get it seated. I wish I'd tied a rubber band around the plastic connector with a cow hitch then wore the tag end around my wrist. It took 20 minutes and the skin on two knuckles to get it out. 5/16" bolt idea didn't work as it got no purchase on the filter. I used a pick like OZ. Worked fine. There's an armored hose - I think A/C related - that you work outside of at all times. That is, on the dashboard side of the hose not on the inside of the bend. There is a spring clip on the brake booster connector but just ignore that. There is no need to fool with the spring clip if you just work the connector back as far as it can go, then push the red thing in and tug on the hose.
Homie can you share the link for the screen and sensor
Best video I’ve seen on this. Thanks
Thank you very much Doug. Thanks for watching
Similar thankful words from me for uploading the best video in TH-cam for the subject. Many thanks. God bless you.
Good job Oz!!!! Very close to same procedure for 08 5.3l, but no hose removal, just very tight!
Great video and tip! 1 of the best videos as this makes the job alot easier for sure. Thank you!!
When you’re plugging back in the vacuum hose, does it just snap in? Or do you have to manipulate that red piece to lock it in?
Thanks for the video
I changed mine yesterday. I got some picks but the point on my 90⁰ was too long and kept slipping of the tab on the brake booster connection. So I just worked around the booster hose. It was kind of in the way but not really worth messing around with if it doesn't come off easily. I won't even bother with if I have to do one again. Having your socket on a swivel head or knuckle makes the job easy once you figure out how to reach it.
Thanks bro cool video. I thought I was going to have to pull the intake manifold and I didn't know there was a screen. You da Man !!! ✌👍🤠 Ken Boise, Idaho.
Glad this video helped out handyman68 !! Thanks for stopping by
9 out of 10 times for me the pigtail is full of oil, but good video Oz and look forward to meeting you in Atlanta
Flat Rate Master heck yea we have to plan it
We look forward to seeing you in Atlanta for NACE Automechanika this August 8 - 10! Discover the latest products, technology, tools and equipment hitting the market! You'll also have the opportunity to get trained by the experts at various mechanical, collision repair and managerial classes! Be sure to register at www.naceautomechanika.com/in1
Mine wasn't.
You explained how to remove both the sensor and filter. Thanks!!!
It's too bad this is like the 5th video I found. Best video on how to do the job.
you can use a bolt but threading it into the filter/screen and after threading into screen, you can then just easily pull it out...
Let us talk to your hubby rather hear it from the horses mouth
Tyron Zepol you sound like a little insecure little punk lmao just cause she’s a lady, she’s not qualified or her advise isn’t valid? You’re a joke lol
@@chuylopez8793 well well well little man, I'm not only good looking but I also work on my 1980 Chevy K5 Blazer, which I recently swapped out my 350 to 305 so I can rebuild my 350.... If you want some tips on how to work on your rig, just let me know!!... now stop being a prick and man up!!
@@bananapuffcream1 Thank you for being a real man!!
1 5/8 drywall screw works well also
If you ever have your engine removed for any reason it is a good idea to replace the plastic oil gallery barbell with a billet unit from sac city corvette. They have a tighter fit to prevent dirty oil from bypassing the oil filter.
Thanks for the video but, I was able to remove the sensor without removing the cable you removed. The picking tools helped thank you.
Awesome
Thanks for the vid Bud Great Work 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you for stopping by and watching
I'm impressed you got a camera in there, l have replaced lots of these, always by feel.
Moving that hose out the way made this job even more a breeze thanks for that info bro... don't know wtf was up with the old sensor but I had to force that sensor socket on it for whatever reason. Other than that it was a straight forward little job
Important note,the screen wasn’t introduced until 2007 previous motors didn’t have one.
If you have an 06 it may depending on the manufacture date.
Thanks for that important info!
Spent 20 min picking at my 03 wondering where the screen was
I have a 2001 gmc 5.3l so it’s not needed?
@@jimmyramirez8844 Only the sensor, not the screen.
Did this today it's not fun but it can be done a wobble extension is a must along with patience
great video and now to change out the filter also,cleaning mine and reinserting since I already have my pressure switch module! Thanks....
you the only one that took out the filter doing it that way now i will do it your way
Best video for this issue!
Thanks you Wildatom.
This is the best vid by far on this repair. Kudos to you bruh. On a side note. They make a special socket for this sensor. I ordered it for like $6-7 it’s made by lisle 1-1/6. I’ll sub.....
Yup....it cost about $9.00,I think,on Amazon. It's under "Lysle Oil Sensor Socket,for 5.3L Silverado".
Dammit bro i tried for 6 hours then sisd im gonna find a video that i havent seen and BAM!you popped up with your easy to do vid.. thanks
THANK YOU EXCELLENT VIDEO AND EXPLANATION!!
Best video on this repair for sure!! Thanks for the help!!
Thanks for watching
Just a little tip for anyone out there that the screen is stuck and won't come out with the pick.... I was able to thread a 5/16 course thread eye bolt into the screen and apply enough pressure to pop it out. Don't thread it in too far or it will expand the screen and just add to the problem. Just get it in snug and then give it a pull while wiggling it back and forth. The truck I was working on was a 2013 with 160k. Lots of heat cycles and pretty sure it has never been done before. Thanks again Oz!!
I have done this without removing the breather hose....damn....wish I had watched your video! Great tips and love the tool suggestions.
Great video. Way easier than other videos thank you
israel taylor thanks. Glad you really liked the video
Great video, concise and to the point.
Carbon!!, I got tired of replacing oil pumps and sensors and found if you pour about half a gallon of berreymans chem dip in the oil when its cool, fire it up, hold the rpm about 1500, you will notice the oil pressure increase right away. Run it up to about 200 degrees, shut it down, and repeat the run up after it cools several times. I like to have 3 days if possible doing this, drain oil, remove filter and blow air back through the two passages the filter uses on the engine. I've done as many as four a week. It also works for decarbonizing the pistons and rings on the 4cyl Gm's that have oil usage problems. Anyhow that's the trick I found works for me.
Clear, concise, and to the point 👉 thanks -
Super informative. I feel confident tackling this job tomorrow. Too bad my 11 avalanche is lifted 7.5" and my back hurts like a mr fr. But hey thats Trucklife💯👍👍
This saved me a lot of time and money. Thank you.
Glad the video helped out
Nice video! You made it very simple to understand.
Hi. I wanted to know before you replaced the oil sensor and oil sensor screen, was the engine making ticking and knocking sounds, and was the oil gauge needle going up and down on that vehicle?
They should beat the engineers ass who thought about putting the sending unit in this spot. It was perfect on the side of the block. Also does a 2006 have this screen?
Not as bad as knock sensors 🤨
Great job. You were professional.
Your video is the best I have seen. Your diagrams show exactly where the sensor is located. I don't know exactly how you got your camera into such a tight space but this is the first time I have seen the actual sensor and wiring harness connected to the block. I am definitely going to change out my sensor and screen. I do have to ask one question. Were you standing on a step stool when you removed the sensor? One guy actually sat in the engine apartment when he changed the sensor but I know there is no way I could ever do that. Thanks for making this video.
I laid a moving blanket over the radiator support,and used a step stool to get me up there.Then I knelt on the core support,and put my left arm on the plastic intake manifold.I did the work with my Right hand.
What a convenient spot for a sensor
I have a 07 tahoe that says no oil pressure and to turn off engine. Going to try this looks like an easy fix thanks for the help
I have the same issue. Let me know how it goes
This is the problem. I disconnected my sensor and drove it with fresh oil change. The gauge reads 0 but engine is good, but replaced everything ( screen and sensor) and fixed. The other video I saw was easier than this , he didn't remove anything and use a bolt to remove the screen.
I surely wouldn't call it easy...but it's doable.
What symptoms would lead you to replace the sensor and filter or screen? I have an 05 Silverado that is running great however I have low oil pressure reading at idle and at highway speed’s but I can’t find any indication of leaks or anything else like that.
same here , i changed the sensor before , and now needs it again, this time i changed it it wont maintain i high idel eventually get low and triggets alarm again!?
Could be the pcm not reading the sender unit correctly.
Great info, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
You made it look easy. I made a video of me changing one. 07 Avalanche. Jays Auto And more.
Checked with the local dealer in town.. they wanted to charge me $400.00 , stated they needed to take off the intake to replace the sending unit.. I completed this in 45 min... most of that time was spent getting the hose off above the sensor... That is the only one you need to remove to get the sensor out... don't let anyone else fool you...
They do this very same procedure and still charge you for the intake removal!!! I know first hand I've worked for GM dealers my hole life it pissies me off big time that they pull this shit its wrong so wrong!!! By the way the mechanic only gets his hourly pay unless it's a flat rate shop which I worked for once an saw the rip off that the customer's get I couldn't stand it and quit got a different job at an hourly rate dealer!!!
Fantastic filming.
Hi... thanks for the vid help out a lot but I have to ask what happens if u forget to put the screen filter in???
I would leave the filter screen out.
Michael, why would you do that?
Been there done that but I had a few more descriptive words along the way. Good video!
Thanks!!!! Same here same here
Good demo!
Thanks for the heads up. This approach worked perfectly!!
Great video!! Very helpful!
Good camera work
Those filters are only on the gm motors after 07,08 right ? Not in my 05 sierra ?
It’s on the ones that have active fuel management
@@OzMechanics awesome thanks, kind of hard to see down that hole to make sure one isent there
Thank you for this awesome video!
Did mines just now great help
Thx bro! I know this is gonna piss me off when I do this!😂
Always great information thanks
Can I just put the old yellow O-ring back in my new sensor? Or does it have to go on the sensor plug itself???
Primo pregunta importante si compras el sensor para una misma chevy silverado pero no estas seguro que motor es, y compras en sensor equivocado pero si le queda a la troca funciona o no.
How do you unclip it? Do you press down or pull up? I see a blue little tab on mine as well as a grey clip. 2011 GMC Sierra 5.3
You are a Wizard!!! Great video thanks!
Very Informative video
Thanks for watching
I recently changed mine out but don't recall changing the connector sleeve out. Since putting the new one on it still has low oil pressure.
Before I go and dig out the oil pump would you say that sleeve could be my problem?
Just did mine. a small lag bolt that just fits in the new one works perfect for the screen. just thread it in a thread or 2 by hand and it pulls right out
Great video. It helped me a lot and now all fixed. Thanks
Awesome. Glad to hear this video helped out