3.9 Perkins 4-cyl Dry Sleeve Engine Rebuild | Massey Ferguson 270 [EP2]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- This is part 2 of our Massey Ferguson 270 rebuild series!
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How to rebuild a MF 270 dry sleeve 3.9 Perkins 4-cyl diesel engine.
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![3.9 Perkins 4-cyl Head Assembly | Massey Ferguson 270 [EP3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C738lm4qnTc/mqdefault.jpg)
![3.9 Perkins 4-cyl Head Assembly | Massey Ferguson 270 [EP3]](/img/tr.png)
![3.9 Perkins 4-cyl Final Assembly | Massey Ferguson 270 [EP4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uVV6V_FoCsI/mqdefault.jpg)
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i am having trouble watching your show, there is no conflict or bullshit deadlines
LOL... No, this is way better....
If we don’t rebuild this engine, WERE GONNA LOSE THE SHOP
@@samthelegoman3990 tavarish in a nutshell
This guy makes wanna rebuild an engine every time I see one of his videos, He explains the ups and downs for doing a job like this, he shows how real it is, not like everything is perfect and it slides together and he shares his opinion. He literally is reason I know anything about diesel engines, he is one of the best mechanics (ill never meet) to help teach someone. One video will educate you so much. Thank You Deboss.
Thanks buddy!
bryan allen Honestly, grab a Honda motor from your wrecker, buy a Haynes manual for it, and just tear it apart. You don’t really need any special tools, and if nothing, you’ll probably have fun re-building it, or just taking it apart. Might as well enjoy it, it’s just gonna end up over seas being remelted into something useless. 😁
The way he shows you step by step. I learn by reading, then being shown once. I love this channel.
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@@DEBOSSGARAGE what state are you in? Awesome video!
Used to engineer for Baldwin Filters. MOST Coolant filters do indeed contain SCAs, Supplemental Coolant Additives, and release them into the coolant, while filtering out debris and contaminants. There are different formulations, in fact, and make sure your filter has the right additive Package for your coolant, based on how my glycol you use mostly. There are coolant filters that do not have additive packages, if your company uses regular testing to determine the additive levels and maintain them. (So... no truck fleet on earth outside of heavy industry...) The movement of the liners actually is one of the things that depletes the additive packages.
Kit Iwamatsu how would you find out what filter you need
@@theshadetreewelder3523 You'd look up your filter size, then decide if you want to use a filter with built in SCA, or use a liquid additive. Diesel engines need a different package than gas engines. Standard coolant has everything gas engines need, so no worry there. Standard coolant does NOT have some of the things diesel engines need, like Nitrites, Borate, MBT, and Silicates. Some diesel coolants already have a full additive package, and will suggest to NOT use SCAs in addition to what's already in there. If you are using standard coolants, then you will want the SCAs. If you use a fully formulated coolant, you do not need an SCA right off the bat, and it should last quite some time (600k miles, or roughly 2 years) thought using test strips every oil change isnt a horrible idea to make sure the Additives are at a good level.
You in general should consult your engine maker as for what coolant, and what SCA should be used. If your engine manual doesnt detail this (or is a much older engine and uses outdated stuff) then completely flush the system and use new coolant before picking an SCA package.
Anyway, there are, now, really only two additive packages. SCA, and SCA+. SCA Also called DCA2 and BTE, and SCA+ is also called DCA4 and BTA+. If you engine has a lot of aluminum, or has an aluminum block, you will want SCA+. SCA is fine for all older wet sleeve engines. In either case, you need to keep the concentration in range. There are also some diesels with OAT and HOAT coolants... but that's a different story and you see those on much newer engines, and you definitely will refer to the manual on them.
Yay, learning! Thanks, mate!
@@BadHaddy Thank you for the detailed answer. Not quite the same question,but for gasoline engines with standard Prestone or equivalent,I recollect the additive package is on the order of 2 ounces per gallon(undiluted), and with the natural increase in acidity,the protection offered only lasts so long. So the question is,what is the best way to keep the stuff from going acid ? Water pump lubricant is about the only thing I have ever seen in the auto stores that contains some replacement stuff,is there a better product made by someone ? Failing all else the old timey answer was to add some Sodium Carbonate, but I feel iffy about that with Aluminum radiators,etc. Cheers.
@@paulmanson253 There is nothing you can reasonably do once the coolant becomes acidic. Its just the oxidation of the coolant into oxalic and glycolic acid. The corrosion inhibitors have done their job and it's just time to change the coolant. You cannot simply re-add the inhibitors for gasoline products in a way that makes financial sense. ANY product that claims differently is bunk and snake oil, and probably sold alongside engine honey and gasket sealer (note, all junk.) Since each gaslone engine coolant has its own, rather wildly varying formulation.
The type of coolant you use typically determines it's lifespan. The reason dexcool and all the other OAT and HOAT coolants came along was to greatly extend this service interval. When it comes to older coolants, it seems you can classify makers into 3 categories. Those who used phosphates(Asian), those who used silicates (Euro) and those who used both (Murica). Mostly down to the water that is common in the areas.
Anyway, for older cars using universal/green stuff, just drain and fill. While you're at it, replace your radiator cap. People ignore the hell out of that and you end up with the dexcool paste-stew. Just use deionized water, premix with concentrate, and you're golden. 30k miles seems pretty safe. If you want, get the little floatie-dealie bobber to test your concentration (it's called a hydrometer) and make sure its in the range appropriate for your area. And maybe dip in some strips every other oil change to see if you're still in a good ph range. As long as your coolant bottle isn't turning brown you should be fine. As soon as you see particulates (floaties) and discoloration, drain and fill time.
Man I like watching your videos. Great sense of humor. No nasty talking. Great knowledge base.
You deBOSS!
Hi
Brother
I need workshop menual 3.9
Plz
"I don't want to weld it so I'm gonna hit it with a hammer." 🤣
hammer is not as hot as a weld -
Kit provided great information regarding cooling system maintenance, and I will just supplement that. The wet sleeve/liner cavitation problem is caused by poor coolant maintenance, whereby air bubble implosions within the coolant remove a protective coating from the exterior of the sleeve/liner. The combustion process causes the sleeve/liner to oscillate (expand and contract) on the thrust side of the piston (as you rightly mentioned) creating an area of low pressure which causes air bubbles to come out of the coolant following the contraction period. After that contraction, the sleeve/liner then expands into the air bubbles causing the air bubbles to implode, creating a shock wave of approximately 60,000 psi against the side of the sleeve/liner, continually removing small amounts of the sleeve/liner material. Eventually, the sleeve/liner wall becomes perforated, allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber causing catastrophic failure.
Hope that helps.
The last Perkins I rebuilt was an old 4.108. It had dry liners with no lip. You had to set the protrusion while pressing them in, which was fun. Then you had to bore and hone them after being installed. I don't use retainer, in fact I put oil on the liners before pushing them in. I like to plastigauge with no lube on the journal, the lube has a thickness. Good video.
the coked oil will lock and seal them in :)))
The Perkins 3.9 is better known as the 4.236 (4 cylinder, 236 cubic inch), and is nearly identical to the 4.248. Great engines, around 70HP, made with or without the balancer as seen in this engine. Found in many applications like tractors, aircraft tugs and tree chippers. Good vid Mr. D. I welded the liners out of my 236 when I found it impossible to pull them with a plate and all thread puller. Three or four light MIG beads on each, and out they came.
Another method is to use oxyacetylene torch with a neutral flame (flame tip contacting the cylinder) run up and down the bore, one stringer pass to focus heat. Letting it cool will shrink the cylinder allowing it to free up the liner from the block.
You can take a boring bar and bore the linners paper thin. Then peel them out with a sharpened screwdriver! Those linners are so thin that if they are stuck at all it's hard to get a linner puller to grab them!
Good engine you can rebuild them like 4-5 times
These engines, along with the 6-354s that use the same sleeves, pistons, valves, etc. are among the most widely used in the world. The 4-236s were used in thousands of small fishing boats in Third World countries, especially South and Southeast Asia and Africa, but also in the Caribbean, Central America and parts of South America. They were first used in the Massey Ferguson 175 / 180s starting about 1961 and in subsequent Masseys for three decades. They even are in some Allis Chalmers.
Sounds like someone watches their MCM by that recommendation by a Benny, Mechanical Stig
In 2010 rebuilt a Perkins 2.5 diesel 3 cly. for my IMT 539 tractor now has over 2,600 hrs on it still running strong. You explain things very good. Great video, the 3.9 Perkins 4 cly is one of the best engines.
Worrying about the little bit of heat from welding to remove the liners is a non issue, it is momentary and will not affect anything!
He's like when he's talking about the piston rings and then he puts the sleeve on it he says oh I hope it's big enough and I was like that's what she said
The liner and dry ice and just drop it in, no hydraulic press needed...
Yes sir
I have a sperm tank and a good source for liquid nitrogen, Works great. , I wonder if it changes the molecules in the steel,
I have used a regular deep freezer to cool the parts to install before. Also the dry actually could make the parts stronger. However I believe when parts are cryogenically treated they are cooled at certain rates ,held for set times,and returned to normal temps at certain rates to control warping and cracking. I like the dry ice on bushings and other things and maybe I will try dry ice on my next rebuild.
In the winter, put the freezer outside, turn the thermostat as low as possible. Put liners in freeze for 24 hours.
Use thick gloves when moving liners.
But
We use liquid Nitrogen.
I just stick them in the freezer
Sir you dont have to touch the bearings with the bare hands because ower hands contain oils. That oils will make an hot spot on the bearing because on the first start the oil won't stick on that thinger print
An old timer showed me how to remove old sleeves by running an arc welder up the inside of the old sleeve with very small fast beads
What it dose is it shrinks it then they literally fall out.
Done it many times
Funny, that's exactly what he said in the video, ylu must've missed that part.
Nah bro, your neighbor is a genius. I have done that with a bearing race in a blind hole in an aluminum transfer case. The secret is speed. In my case the race was thin so I used a TIG torche You want to minimize the heat transfer. ESPECIALLY with aluminum on the other side. TIG is hot fast. I ran a "bead", just heat from the bottom of the blind hole to the top. Took 2 maybe 3 seconds. Then I threw cold water on it. Done. I could almost pick it out with my fingers where I broke an inside puller on it 20 minutes earlier. I bet if you could take a big TIG and run a "bead"(no metal just heat) from the bottom to the top where the sleeve is backed up by the thickest part of the block it would be no problem especially since that sleeve looks pretty thin. Actual welding puts in too much heat and tries to warp the sleeve though I don't doubt it would work. I just think the TIG works better because it is faster. Soon as the sleeve cools a bit it almost stops putting heat into the cast iron block. Dump some water in immediately afterwords and the block should barely be warm.
Which "green" Loctite? 601, 609, 620, 635, 680? They are all different and have different cure times. Some are lubricated, some not. If you chill the liner before insertion, then you won't get the friction heat buildup which causes spot curing. The cured Loctite resin will only reside in the low spots or valleys of the surface profile. The high spots or peaks will still remain in contact. These are your primary heat transfer tracks, the valleys usually contain air (which does not transfer heat very well). The cured resin transmits heat at about 10 times that of air. So, your 'Loctite' mounted sleeves will actually conduct heat better than the non mounted areas.
you can buy a new mwm/navistar from Brasil, very similar a cummins, very cheap, for 5k, to marine use too. 4 and 6 cylinders, turbo or non turbo.
I dont see how any loctite will be between the liner and block after pressing them into a press fit hole in the block, it will be all scraped off while driving the liners in. I rebuilt a 248 perkins a few months ago it just made a big mess when putting the liners in and trapped it under the flange on the last few thousands.
Gets between the tiny scratches in the liner and block. If you were to wipe oil on the liner, install it, then remove it again, you'd be able to pick up some oil on the liner with a rag.
I was tought to never use ATF in an engine build. the ATF will cause a glaze on the cylinder on first start, rings wont seat right...
You are right. It was 15w40 in a container that had ATF in it. The ATF was drained, just a little residue on the bottom.
@@DEBOSSGARAGE
Thanks
I E-mailed you a question but haven't heard back. On the three cylinder Perkins tractor engine , do I need a special puller or tool to replace the seal for the tach drive on the back of the engine? It weeps oil bad through the hole on the small housing cover. Any help would be appreciated. Great videos.
Did an Isuzu 4hf1 at work a month ago. Cheap bastard client didn't want to do crankshaft bearings, said they were ok and had been done within the decade. However, they did opt for a new clutch. Long story short, new clutch finished off what was left of the thrust bearings and spun all of the rest
Benny's Custom Works! (mechanical stig)
Even a Bad Boy Bubby reference, you know your Australian stuff!
Does anyone know how similar this 3.9 Perkins is compared to the 3.9 perkins that’s in a Cat skid steer (3044C engine)
6:50 no joke. When you rack up the tons on that gauge it gets scary. I bought an air over hydraulic press just so that I can actuate it from a safe distance. I'll stand besides the post and look through the little hole with safety glasses on.
A few years ago I was trying to buy an 80s 6.9 truck from a guy claiming that he was a diesel mechanic for the last 20 years. When I asked him about the coolant additive (and if he had added it) he told me I was an idiot and he had never heard of it during his 20 year career (and had never heard of cavitation either). Needless to say I walked away from that truck...
On a wet sleeve engine in addition to a water filter, many also had a de-aeration line to help avoid cavitation next to the liner wall.
Takes me back to the years of assembling these at Perkins Peterborough.
You sir, need an air over hydraulic peddle for that press. They are cheap and after you use it just once you will wonder why you didn’t have it years ago.
This and buying an autofeed kit for your old lathe.
Weld a bottom on that sleeve, wash well and sell as a Deboss garage coffee cup swag ........ just sayin
Size says it is more akin to a beer stein than a coffee cup.
Cup of tea=4oz
Cup of coffee=6oz
Cup of water=8oz
Cup of beer =all of it.
But who am I to talk sh!t about the darker fluids being under sized , I use a 30oz Yeti coffee cup. Love my coffee .
Love your videos. I learned about cavitation working on a very old locomotive. Inline 6 cylinder with wet sleeves. Sleeves were about 5/8 inch thick and holes about 1/2 inch. Had to get parts from a museum. On locomotives we just run water for coolant with boron for anti corrosion. No coolant filter. We don't shut them down in the winter outside and if we do they are drained.
Original Gojo is the best lube for wet sleeves. I work in the marine industry and that's what they use.
Use dry ice to remove old sleeve you can also install new sleeve with dry ice just do not get to cold used this for 42 years.
I have seen guys pack the cylinder liners in dry ice , they basically fell into the bores. Thanks
Fill a pan with kerosene, put the parts in that, then put in the deep freeze or dry ice box.
You can make a crankshaft "bigger" if you nitrite harden after grinding. They will swell. I have seen many standard cranks get ground and nitrited and come out standard journal size.
Nitriting is not a normal practice for tractor engines. I come from aviation world, any ground crank gets rehardend.
you can get over sized maim bearings for cats if you've had the block line bored.
Ohh man!!I love 265 perkins 236 1989 4 speed,I have one still original never touch the engine and nothing💪🐎🐎🐎
Finest tractor engine ever made.
put your liners in the freezer.........they will tap in nicely. Just work quickly because obviously as they warm up they start to grab the block. I once worked on a mack truck ( EA7-470) that even welding the liners wouldnt get one liner out. So we jacked up the entire front of the truck ( 4500kg) resting on the liner, ran another weld down the stubborn liner, and came back 60 minutes later after lunch..........that moved it =) AS always, get the specs and make sure the finished liner protrusion is on the manufacturers specs so that when the head is torqued down it gets the correct crush fit and a good seal.
If you watched the video... he actually did freeze them. -18c on a 0c day.
Yup, Keep the block at room temp. Sleeves in a freezer overnight. Have it together to work fast and get the new sleeve home in a few seconds. I've been doing this since 1964 on Farmall H and M series with "firecrater" set ups.
wing nut,????does that refewr to an ausie,.....i hope so.
welding a bead along the inside the sleeve is the way we did it a the shop i worked at. it worked but i wouldn't recommend it.
Famoso Perkins 4 cilindros um dos melhores do motores do mundo 😂❤
Ive seen this debate before. Do you leave the plastiguage behind or remove it before put the caps back on. Some people have told me to leave it wont hurt anything and touching the race is worse. Some people say remove it for fear of spinning a bearing
I'm told it's safe to leave but I carefully remove it
You're right on with the coolant filter. I'm a 7.3 Powerstroke guy (but we can still be friends) and I do recommend adding the coolant filters to the engines to maintain the SCA levels (Supplemental Coolant Additive) to prevent cavitation. Navistar (the manufacturer of the 7.3/T444E engine) installed a different water pump on their engines that had a filter head built right into the pump. You can get the filters with or without the SCA additive, but while they do filter grit out of the coolant flowing through them, they also add SCA. It's a double benefit.
Hey thank you for the tip using the sharpening stone on the deck!
Liner Pro Tip : Dry ice'm ;-)
Doesn’t turning the crank with the plastic gage kinda smear it
Guys like you and South Main Auto are gonna put shops teachers out of work 😉
No that was tax raises and budget cuts
Weld a bead down one side of each liner they fall right out
Hands in oil makes me cringe, a couple of friends of mine who worked on engines and hydraulics died from pancreatic cancer. I wear the disposable gloves now, the warnings are on the oil cans......Crap I used to wash parts in gasoline and diesel unprotected.
I used to soak my pistons in oil when rebuilding an engine, but from other sources was taught it is better to use WD40 (yes, WD40) to lube the new rings as using engine oil risks causing the cylinder to glaze upon startup because the compression rings will have to cut through the heavy oil film, which they where not designed to do. In theory, the WD40 will burn off almost instantly, and because the oil system has been primed, there will already be engine oil on the lower portion of the cylinder and piston where the oil rings can do their job. I have since rebuilt a handful of engines lubing the rings/cylinders with WD40 instead of engine oil when installing the pistons in the cylinders. My experience, the rings seat much quicker and better than when I used engine oil. I still lube the wrist pin very generously with engine oil, just not the rings and cylinders.
Thanks for that!
That’s true. Total Seal says nothing but WD40 on installation. I’ve built Toyota engines for a living for 25 years and never used anything other than penetrant oil. I don’t personally use WD40 but any penetrating spray like Thrust, or PB Blaster will work just fine.
Use red anti freeze. ELC, extended life coolant. Has rust inhibitors and considerably less cavitation. Or so our local Cummins shop told me. I switched everything I own to ELC.
Still work at Perkins to this day.....used to machine / assemble these ...never used loctite on any selves...just bolts ...great video....
Anyone know the hex size on that crank bolt?
Is It a perkins 1000 series engine? if so it has a hardened crank.. and cant cut the crank, unless you re- harden it! a new crank is cheaper than that process! engine wont last very long if you don't harden the crank!
James Lombard we had a John Deere 6610 premium with a hardened crank. The engine properly locked up on is because the tractor was in a crash and turned upside down the in the process. The revved out completely and seized. We rebuilt the engine and the crank could be saved and it was bad. Re polished up going perfect since
way too much blah blah blah ! just get on with it !
When stripping the AD3.152 or AD4.203. We just catch the liner edge with either a long narrow chisel or clean flat screwdriver and peel it to the top til it collapses in. Never had an issue.
My work we use filters with out additives because we use a coolant that has those additives in it.
Great vid, much prefer this style of presenting...keep ‘em coming
Wonder how this compares to the new sisu diesels
17:33 We're putting the one ring on here...And then taking it to Mordor lol.
7:20
Who let the shop elephant loose?
yer big girls blouse welding a bead on the liner is the safest way to do it remember its a casting you are wailing on if you get a really tight one you can screw things up real fast you run the bead and tap it out quick so the heat does not get a chance to spread did this for many years never any trauma also warmed the block evenly with a rose bud torch before dropping well frozen linners in NEVER any loctite agh the good old days
we have always used dry ice to install liners and it works great. the new coolants have dca attitive in the coolant to avoid liner cavitation. or if you use glycol then run a dca additive filter.
I use that welding trick when removing bearing races also. Works great on wheel bearings.
Coolant filters have little pellets of SCA's in solid form rattling around in them until you run them a bit and the pellets dissolve and mix into the coolant.
Absolutely love the channel man 🤘🏻 keep up the great work!
here in Brazil the Chevrolet c10 use these engines. Little Perkins.
That is very cool! I just bought a Ford ranger with a perkins 4.135. Runs like a top, I am going to put a small turbo on it.
Best youtube channel there is.
The weld bead along the length of the sleeve technique works great! Just don't go crazy and burn holes!
Put liners in the freezer overnight!. Then install into block. Physics
liquid nitrogen works best, that how we do it at my work.
When my kids and I are watching repair videos on TH-cam. The hammer is always the tool to reach for.
So that’s why you buy steel toe boots
Sir I am. Pilipino. I like your all vedeo. I a heavy equipment mechanic. Off Massey Ferguson. 399 268
Using a sharpening stone! What an awesome idea!
Make sure to buy a precision ground stone, or get your local machine shop to grind them flat.
Definitely DON'T use a stone that was used to sharpen a knife. Sharpening a knife makes a belly in the center of the stone, and if the stone isn't flat you will do more harm than good.
Stoning a deck is really handy for telling what the surface looks like. The stone will show shiny spots on any high points, and it will show stuff that you can't see or feel. Often stoning the deck is what I use to decide if a block goes to the machine shop or not.
If you have a local place to get dry ice fill up an igloo cooler that’s big enough for a sleeve or all of them to fit in. A freezer isn’t cold enough to shrink them much. Probably won’t need a press using dry ice. Great videos.
Does a Perkins diesel share a bellhousing bolt pattern with any thing
They are SAE ,share pattern with most ,millions in use around the world especially here in Europe and that 236 that's being rebuilt was in production for nearly 30 years.One off the best engines about.
When you opened the freezer where is DEbeef?
In DeBack?
Maybe at DeBottom?
Great guy! You don’t only see what he’s doing but you feel his build in mastering mechanics skills! Top! Real “Boss”
Have a question for my tractor... got a issue on my MF 284/4 - Landini 6500.
And before I open the motor I got to be sure off the correct motor type!?
Into the booklet the motor type is a A4 212
Onto the tractor nameplate the tractor type is a MF284/4 serial# 220H00479
Onto the motor nameplate the motor type is a “Perkins Engines A4 236”
The motor serial# LD22574 U 954913L
The bloc serial# 3711328A/1
My question.: what type of motor I got here? A 212 or a 236?
How can I see the difference in between them?
Thanks in advance... Bob
Man !! I have that engine 3.9 perkins on my truck dodge 1989 D-350 😆
is it the engine for the truck or does it run something else(ie compressor or something)? I always thought one of these would be neat to use to power a vehicle, not sure if they are big enough though.
If you keep oil changed in those old Perkins,20,000hrs before overhaul,easy.Great engines.
Buy a dedicated liner protrusion gauge....
I saw some dude on an Ozzie wrenching channel wearing the same T-shirt. You guys must be shopping at the same store, right? Cross pollination is good for all Mr. Carborundum!
I work on big equipment for a living, d11s highwall miners, joy miners, 994 loaders,some huge rebuilds, from 400 big cam Cummins to 3500 series cats if you have to tell people every 20 seconds dont need the negative comments then your doing something right. I watch this shit every evening your a great knuckle buster. people if you can do any better dont be scared to make a channel if you dont like his shit dont watch. You look good from my end ol pal hard to believe youd get any negative feedback. I dont understand people now days. Where I'm from you run your mouth in person. the mechanics I watch on TH-cam are a select few seem alright to me!
If you warm three block to around 40 or 50 deg C the and work quickly taking 1 sleeve out of the freezer and install it immediately I reckon it would drop in almost all the way before it grabs. A couple of 60 watt light bulbs in the block overnight covered with a blanket would heat it nice and gently would do the trick. An alternative would be dry ice for 20 minutes in the liners. Just make sure you wear lint free gloves to handle them.
So glad I found this channel . My dad and I have rebuilt a few tractor engines over the years , but never a Perkins abs this fall I’ll be rebuilding our case 1210 with a Perkins 👌👍👍thank you for uploading . Friends from Alberta
I think I missed the HP of the engine ???? What is the HP on this one ????
Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!
So you're supposed to chill the new sleeves down in a deep freezer and heat the block. But you're not supposed to spray anything between the sleeve and the block. Both surfaces need to be absolutely clear for optimal cooling performance.
Loctite 518 is used to seal the bottom of the sleeve to avoid any oil ingress between the sleeve and the block. Oil between the sleeve and the block reduces the conductivity.
You're obviously not supposed to completely loctite the whole sleeve but just put some in the bore right before you push it down the last third. Any excess can be wiped. The Loctite needs to cure some hours, after 24h it's fully cured, so it's best to not start the engine until the next day.
Loctite 518 can withstand 5W30, Water with glycol and DEF but cannot withstand gas. So if you want to remove a sleeve sealed with Loctite 518 you can add some gasoline to break it down.
That's what I've learned and believe, feel free to take it or leave it 😙🎶
I have a Perkins A4.248 in a Massey Ferguson 50HX 1988 backhoe and needs new cylinders. I cant get the engine out so trying to do an in chassis repair. I got them out but trying to figure out how to get the sleeves back in while still in the machine. Any ideas anyone?
Coolent filters come with and without wet sleeve additive. Ford 7.3 is also prone to cavitation damages even thoeits a dry/non-sleeve block. The 7.3 also had problems with castung sand left behind and working out of the castings causinf pluged oil coolers inturn burnt oil. The coolent "filter" helps prevent oil cooler plugings by "filtering" the sand out.
I never had a problem with welding a longitudinal bead.. you don't want to kill it. Those dry interference liners were a bitch.
A word on those balancers.. There was a bad run of the carrier castings on those oil pump/balancer assemblies that would just break on the 4.236. Remember doing some of those when I worked for a Perkins dealer.
Thinking about cavitation erosion, we have it here in washington. The huge dam turbines would last almost forever except for cavitation. Welders have to get in and fill up the holes. Cavitation in liners with an additive has some complex physics. If it works why not do it. How it works? Maybe partly what you say is true. At least if it is spalling off and not the metal liner all is well. How sound does this is pretty interesting. I would think it is more like the old chieftain tank ammunition. It shot a gob of explosive onto the enemy tank. As it exploded, it spalled off the inner surface killing the crew. Gob smacked.
Respected
I'm building a generator for myself on a Perkins C4.4 engine
I can't find information about tightening the head and other parts anywhere. to how many Nm it is tightened.
You should get liquid nitrogen for the sleeve they would drop in like nothing no press needed.
But I already have a press. I don't have liquid nitrogen
@@DEBOSSGARAGE its all we use here 😅 but we work with Letourneau loader and 793F mine truck, d10 and 994 cat loader
Can we increase the pto hp of mf240 by installing or replacing any gear to pto runing shaft or by incresing torque of the engine...and secondly can we install lifting hydraulic pump externally on mf 240
Stainless rods work well for welding for pulling bushings
D Steven Paisley
I think the idea of laying a bead inside the old sleeve to pull the metal in is a great idea. I did not like the localized heat hypothesis. It makes no sense.
I bought a 5lb dead blow hammer just for driving out liners. You can hit something 20 times with a 2lb hammer or twice with a 5lb hammer.
As far as liner lock goes, I only apply it to the liner on the last stroke of the press. That prevents it from setting up when the press needs to be reset, but it also makes sure they stay exactly where they are supposed to be while you finish building the block. Heat and the head hold them in place once the engine is together, after it starts the first time the locktight breaks loose from thermal differential anyway.
You are spot on on the cavitational erosion - the filter has a boron additive that conditions the coolant to slow the process. Like your videos very well.
The perkins gets cavitation home in the liner bored we sub sleeve the blocks.its really prevalent in the 1000 series engines. I'm a factory trained Perkins technician I have taken liners out by running a weld bead in 4 places. The liners are tight enough they won't move once they are installed.
Great job I've used a home made puller with an all tread rod and some spacers and I freeze em before I put em in don't ever use any kind of glue to hold them you'll regret it
How do i Know If the Bolts for the crankshaft are reusable? Or do you Change 2 of the Bolts after checking the plastigauge?
How square do you need to be pressing in the sleeve? Will it "make up" as you press it in? Great video as always Rich! Love watchin ya!