This guy makes wanna rebuild an engine every time I see one of his videos, He explains the ups and downs for doing a job like this, he shows how real it is, not like everything is perfect and it slides together and he shares his opinion. He literally is reason I know anything about diesel engines, he is one of the best mechanics (ill never meet) to help teach someone. One video will educate you so much. Thank You Deboss.
bryan allen Honestly, grab a Honda motor from your wrecker, buy a Haynes manual for it, and just tear it apart. You don’t really need any special tools, and if nothing, you’ll probably have fun re-building it, or just taking it apart. Might as well enjoy it, it’s just gonna end up over seas being remelted into something useless. 😁
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Used to engineer for Baldwin Filters. MOST Coolant filters do indeed contain SCAs, Supplemental Coolant Additives, and release them into the coolant, while filtering out debris and contaminants. There are different formulations, in fact, and make sure your filter has the right additive Package for your coolant, based on how my glycol you use mostly. There are coolant filters that do not have additive packages, if your company uses regular testing to determine the additive levels and maintain them. (So... no truck fleet on earth outside of heavy industry...) The movement of the liners actually is one of the things that depletes the additive packages.
@@theshadetreewelder3523 You'd look up your filter size, then decide if you want to use a filter with built in SCA, or use a liquid additive. Diesel engines need a different package than gas engines. Standard coolant has everything gas engines need, so no worry there. Standard coolant does NOT have some of the things diesel engines need, like Nitrites, Borate, MBT, and Silicates. Some diesel coolants already have a full additive package, and will suggest to NOT use SCAs in addition to what's already in there. If you are using standard coolants, then you will want the SCAs. If you use a fully formulated coolant, you do not need an SCA right off the bat, and it should last quite some time (600k miles, or roughly 2 years) thought using test strips every oil change isnt a horrible idea to make sure the Additives are at a good level. You in general should consult your engine maker as for what coolant, and what SCA should be used. If your engine manual doesnt detail this (or is a much older engine and uses outdated stuff) then completely flush the system and use new coolant before picking an SCA package. Anyway, there are, now, really only two additive packages. SCA, and SCA+. SCA Also called DCA2 and BTE, and SCA+ is also called DCA4 and BTA+. If you engine has a lot of aluminum, or has an aluminum block, you will want SCA+. SCA is fine for all older wet sleeve engines. In either case, you need to keep the concentration in range. There are also some diesels with OAT and HOAT coolants... but that's a different story and you see those on much newer engines, and you definitely will refer to the manual on them.
@@BadHaddy Thank you for the detailed answer. Not quite the same question,but for gasoline engines with standard Prestone or equivalent,I recollect the additive package is on the order of 2 ounces per gallon(undiluted), and with the natural increase in acidity,the protection offered only lasts so long. So the question is,what is the best way to keep the stuff from going acid ? Water pump lubricant is about the only thing I have ever seen in the auto stores that contains some replacement stuff,is there a better product made by someone ? Failing all else the old timey answer was to add some Sodium Carbonate, but I feel iffy about that with Aluminum radiators,etc. Cheers.
@@paulmanson253 There is nothing you can reasonably do once the coolant becomes acidic. Its just the oxidation of the coolant into oxalic and glycolic acid. The corrosion inhibitors have done their job and it's just time to change the coolant. You cannot simply re-add the inhibitors for gasoline products in a way that makes financial sense. ANY product that claims differently is bunk and snake oil, and probably sold alongside engine honey and gasket sealer (note, all junk.) Since each gaslone engine coolant has its own, rather wildly varying formulation. The type of coolant you use typically determines it's lifespan. The reason dexcool and all the other OAT and HOAT coolants came along was to greatly extend this service interval. When it comes to older coolants, it seems you can classify makers into 3 categories. Those who used phosphates(Asian), those who used silicates (Euro) and those who used both (Murica). Mostly down to the water that is common in the areas. Anyway, for older cars using universal/green stuff, just drain and fill. While you're at it, replace your radiator cap. People ignore the hell out of that and you end up with the dexcool paste-stew. Just use deionized water, premix with concentrate, and you're golden. 30k miles seems pretty safe. If you want, get the little floatie-dealie bobber to test your concentration (it's called a hydrometer) and make sure its in the range appropriate for your area. And maybe dip in some strips every other oil change to see if you're still in a good ph range. As long as your coolant bottle isn't turning brown you should be fine. As soon as you see particulates (floaties) and discoloration, drain and fill time.
In 2010 rebuilt a Perkins 2.5 diesel 3 cly. for my IMT 539 tractor now has over 2,600 hrs on it still running strong. You explain things very good. Great video, the 3.9 Perkins 4 cly is one of the best engines.
Kit provided great information regarding cooling system maintenance, and I will just supplement that. The wet sleeve/liner cavitation problem is caused by poor coolant maintenance, whereby air bubble implosions within the coolant remove a protective coating from the exterior of the sleeve/liner. The combustion process causes the sleeve/liner to oscillate (expand and contract) on the thrust side of the piston (as you rightly mentioned) creating an area of low pressure which causes air bubbles to come out of the coolant following the contraction period. After that contraction, the sleeve/liner then expands into the air bubbles causing the air bubbles to implode, creating a shock wave of approximately 60,000 psi against the side of the sleeve/liner, continually removing small amounts of the sleeve/liner material. Eventually, the sleeve/liner wall becomes perforated, allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber causing catastrophic failure. Hope that helps.
Love your videos. I learned about cavitation working on a very old locomotive. Inline 6 cylinder with wet sleeves. Sleeves were about 5/8 inch thick and holes about 1/2 inch. Had to get parts from a museum. On locomotives we just run water for coolant with boron for anti corrosion. No coolant filter. We don't shut them down in the winter outside and if we do they are drained.
The last Perkins I rebuilt was an old 4.108. It had dry liners with no lip. You had to set the protrusion while pressing them in, which was fun. Then you had to bore and hone them after being installed. I don't use retainer, in fact I put oil on the liners before pushing them in. I like to plastigauge with no lube on the journal, the lube has a thickness. Good video.
The Perkins 3.9 is better known as the 4.236 (4 cylinder, 236 cubic inch), and is nearly identical to the 4.248. Great engines, around 70HP, made with or without the balancer as seen in this engine. Found in many applications like tractors, aircraft tugs and tree chippers. Good vid Mr. D. I welded the liners out of my 236 when I found it impossible to pull them with a plate and all thread puller. Three or four light MIG beads on each, and out they came.
Another method is to use oxyacetylene torch with a neutral flame (flame tip contacting the cylinder) run up and down the bore, one stringer pass to focus heat. Letting it cool will shrink the cylinder allowing it to free up the liner from the block.
You can take a boring bar and bore the linners paper thin. Then peel them out with a sharpened screwdriver! Those linners are so thin that if they are stuck at all it's hard to get a linner puller to grab them!
These engines, along with the 6-354s that use the same sleeves, pistons, valves, etc. are among the most widely used in the world. The 4-236s were used in thousands of small fishing boats in Third World countries, especially South and Southeast Asia and Africa, but also in the Caribbean, Central America and parts of South America. They were first used in the Massey Ferguson 175 / 180s starting about 1961 and in subsequent Masseys for three decades. They even are in some Allis Chalmers.
You are spot on on the cavitational erosion - the filter has a boron additive that conditions the coolant to slow the process. Like your videos very well.
This is one of the better channels if not the best for learning how to rebuild. He actually tells you specs for bolts and hey this can happen if you don't fallow A C and F steps. Don't forget these steps or you get to redo or have issues such as the fallowing. Which is really important information to us DIY folk. Know if he will just rebuild a 2.5L Chevy iron Duke for a s10. I'd be all set
You're right on with the coolant filter. I'm a 7.3 Powerstroke guy (but we can still be friends) and I do recommend adding the coolant filters to the engines to maintain the SCA levels (Supplemental Coolant Additive) to prevent cavitation. Navistar (the manufacturer of the 7.3/T444E engine) installed a different water pump on their engines that had a filter head built right into the pump. You can get the filters with or without the SCA additive, but while they do filter grit out of the coolant flowing through them, they also add SCA. It's a double benefit.
So glad I found this channel . My dad and I have rebuilt a few tractor engines over the years , but never a Perkins abs this fall I’ll be rebuilding our case 1210 with a Perkins 👌👍👍thank you for uploading . Friends from Alberta
Great work. No need for comments about your efficacy, as your attention to detail comes across very well. Opinions are like hinder holes, everybody has one. I was taken out of the workforce 6 years ago for medical reasons over in the North Dakota section of the Bakken. Your videos are a great escape for me as I haven't been able to wrench on much other than my lawn mower since. Thanks for doing them. They are good emotional therapy. Cheers gear head.
Hell yeah shout out to Mechanical Stig @8:27! Two amazing mechanics sharing knowledge is always great to see. Would love to see a collaboration at some point.
Only one thing, I use one small drip of "tread-lock" on main and rod end caps bolts after checking the fit. In the old days we used to drill though the bolt heads and wire them, but thread-lock works even better. You can't beat those Perkins engines, they have proved to be excellent over time. Thanks for your demo.
I was just getting ready to comment on one of your videos to see if you had one on changing dry sleeves. Then I found this. Getting ready to pull the Mitsubishi 4d55t I swapped into my Mazda to rebuild it. Those video(and series) gives me some hope. Thanks Rich!
I just subscribed because I bought a 1990 Massey Ferguson 3070 tractor with the 3.9 Perkins engine that has recently been rebuilt. Wanting to learn more about the engine. Thanks for the video. You did good explaining.
@debossgarage I'm not trying to argue, but I thought cavitation was due to the vapour bubbles imploding against the walls! You've givin me alot of help with my schooling and I really appreciate this channel! Thanks for your great work and awesome channel! Wish more people were like you!
we have always used dry ice to install liners and it works great. the new coolants have dca attitive in the coolant to avoid liner cavitation. or if you use glycol then run a dca additive filter.
Make sure to buy a precision ground stone, or get your local machine shop to grind them flat. Definitely DON'T use a stone that was used to sharpen a knife. Sharpening a knife makes a belly in the center of the stone, and if the stone isn't flat you will do more harm than good. Stoning a deck is really handy for telling what the surface looks like. The stone will show shiny spots on any high points, and it will show stuff that you can't see or feel. Often stoning the deck is what I use to decide if a block goes to the machine shop or not.
If you have a local place to get dry ice fill up an igloo cooler that’s big enough for a sleeve or all of them to fit in. A freezer isn’t cold enough to shrink them much. Probably won’t need a press using dry ice. Great videos.
welding a bead down the sleeve is a trick that's been around forever. I worked in a machine shop in the early 90's. used to do it to pull liners and pressed in valve seats in aluminum heads. those where gas motors though. I don't know about dry sleeves in a diesel. keep up the great work.
Did an Isuzu 4hf1 at work a month ago. Cheap bastard client didn't want to do crankshaft bearings, said they were ok and had been done within the decade. However, they did opt for a new clutch. Long story short, new clutch finished off what was left of the thrust bearings and spun all of the rest
Cool seeing you do this. I worked at one of the perkins distributors and rebuilding shops. Pretty interesting. I’ve seen all these parts about a million times. Those balances aren’t cheap
Rebuilt a dry sleeve engine with an old mechanic-he put the sleeves in our freezer and after they cooled about a day they slipped almost all the way in by gravity. He finished them by hand. I was impressed
The whetstone is a highly underrated prep tool. I do a lot of aluminum small engines and it's great for mating surfaces that only get a coat of ThreeBond. Love the channel!
Awesome vid bro I'm a marine/offshore diesel mechanic of 25 years experience, you were correct about wet liner cavitation, the only thing I can tell you is don't hit the piston when installing into liner,push the piston down completely with handle
I enjoy your channel. While watching your 3.9 Perkins 4-cyl Dry Sleeve Engine Rebuild | Massey Ferguson 270 [EP2] video ....the part where you were struggling to remove the dry sleeve, the thought occurred to me that freezing the inner sleeve would maybe contract it enough that it would press out a lot easier. Being a physical scientist, I considered how you could accomplish this. What I came up with is quite simple and hope that in the future you might give it a try. seal the bottom of the cylinder with some silicone and a round piece of wood or plastic lid of the correct diameter. fill the cylinder to the top with crushed ice and some water. Let it sit a minute or two and I suspect the sleeve should contract a few thousands thereby making the extraction much easier.
When stripping the AD3.152 or AD4.203. We just catch the liner edge with either a long narrow chisel or clean flat screwdriver and peel it to the top til it collapses in. Never had an issue.
We used to use a bigger sleeve with a chunk of flat bar and a long threaded rod to pull them out on a few motors the bang would indeed catch you off guard. The press way is Uber better. Plasti Guage is good stuff. Great video.
Coolant filters have little pellets of SCA's in solid form rattling around in them until you run them a bit and the pellets dissolve and mix into the coolant.
put your liners in the freezer.........they will tap in nicely. Just work quickly because obviously as they warm up they start to grab the block. I once worked on a mack truck ( EA7-470) that even welding the liners wouldnt get one liner out. So we jacked up the entire front of the truck ( 4500kg) resting on the liner, ran another weld down the stubborn liner, and came back 60 minutes later after lunch..........that moved it =) AS always, get the specs and make sure the finished liner protrusion is on the manufacturers specs so that when the head is torqued down it gets the correct crush fit and a good seal.
Yup, Keep the block at room temp. Sleeves in a freezer overnight. Have it together to work fast and get the new sleeve home in a few seconds. I've been doing this since 1964 on Farmall H and M series with "firecrater" set ups.
An old timer showed me how to remove old sleeves by running an arc welder up the inside of the old sleeve with very small fast beads What it dose is it shrinks it then they literally fall out.
Another great video, my old boss who was a machinist and an engine builder used to say that plastigauge was made for jack legs who don't have the brains to read the mics and precision tools necessary to measure proper clearances. And he would tell us that if you have to use plastigauge then you need to go get a job working on briggs and stratton lawnmower engines. I personally never had any issues using plastigauge - as long as he never saw me using it. To him that was an offense to be fired over!
6:50 no joke. When you rack up the tons on that gauge it gets scary. I bought an air over hydraulic press just so that I can actuate it from a safe distance. I'll stand besides the post and look through the little hole with safety glasses on.
Nah bro, your neighbor is a genius. I have done that with a bearing race in a blind hole in an aluminum transfer case. The secret is speed. In my case the race was thin so I used a TIG torche You want to minimize the heat transfer. ESPECIALLY with aluminum on the other side. TIG is hot fast. I ran a "bead", just heat from the bottom of the blind hole to the top. Took 2 maybe 3 seconds. Then I threw cold water on it. Done. I could almost pick it out with my fingers where I broke an inside puller on it 20 minutes earlier. I bet if you could take a big TIG and run a "bead"(no metal just heat) from the bottom to the top where the sleeve is backed up by the thickest part of the block it would be no problem especially since that sleeve looks pretty thin. Actual welding puts in too much heat and tries to warp the sleeve though I don't doubt it would work. I just think the TIG works better because it is faster. Soon as the sleeve cools a bit it almost stops putting heat into the cast iron block. Dump some water in immediately afterwords and the block should barely be warm.
I have only ever come across one dry liner engine, that was a 1956 Leyland diesel. The liners were an easy hand slide in and out and the manufacturers service book said to coat the liners in engine oil to aid heat transfer. On wet liners I was told to run a 50% anti freeze mixture to stop cavitation, this raises the boiling point. Cavitation works by bubbles forming from reduced pressure lowering the boiling point of the liquid and then the bubbles imploding blasting the metal away, raise the boiling point and the pressure needs to be even lower for bubbles to form.
Use red anti freeze. ELC, extended life coolant. Has rust inhibitors and considerably less cavitation. Or so our local Cummins shop told me. I switched everything I own to ELC.
Made a carefully shaped drift to carve straight down the side of liners, works a treat, no marks, I do this because I often fit liners and pistons with the engine in situ. Although it's not strickly correct, I have always found the new liners will go in easy by tapping with a wooden block, never needed to cool them. My engine man always bores the block if the liners slide too easy and fits oversize liners, also he always uses unfinished liners and bores them once in the block as they were originally.
Ive seen this debate before. Do you leave the plastiguage behind or remove it before put the caps back on. Some people have told me to leave it wont hurt anything and touching the race is worse. Some people say remove it for fear of spinning a bearing
Yeah your correct I used to work for a John Deere workshop in Australia and they do have a filter for the coolant and specialy designed coolant to prevent cavetation but it still does happen just takes a lot longer with the right coolant
I E-mailed you a question but haven't heard back. On the three cylinder Perkins tractor engine , do I need a special puller or tool to replace the seal for the tach drive on the back of the engine? It weeps oil bad through the hole on the small housing cover. Any help would be appreciated. Great videos.
Great job I've used a home made puller with an all tread rod and some spacers and I freeze em before I put em in don't ever use any kind of glue to hold them you'll regret it
Just did the Perkins in my Massey Ferguson 240. Saw a guy on TH-cam hammer a tiny "soft" steel screw driver down the side and basically unzip the cast sleeve, then pulled it out. Worked like a charm 🙏 Also, I used liquid nitrogen to shrink my liners since I was doing it in the frame.... They dropped right in. And swelled up to normal size within seconds.... So don't fuck up.
Which "green" Loctite? 601, 609, 620, 635, 680? They are all different and have different cure times. Some are lubricated, some not. If you chill the liner before insertion, then you won't get the friction heat buildup which causes spot curing. The cured Loctite resin will only reside in the low spots or valleys of the surface profile. The high spots or peaks will still remain in contact. These are your primary heat transfer tracks, the valleys usually contain air (which does not transfer heat very well). The cured resin transmits heat at about 10 times that of air. So, your 'Loctite' mounted sleeves will actually conduct heat better than the non mounted areas.
Super informative video as always sir I will admit I dont know much about diesel engines but looks pretty straight forward as its gas cousin lube plastic gauge and triple check everything
I dont see how any loctite will be between the liner and block after pressing them into a press fit hole in the block, it will be all scraped off while driving the liners in. I rebuilt a 248 perkins a few months ago it just made a big mess when putting the liners in and trapped it under the flange on the last few thousands.
Gets between the tiny scratches in the liner and block. If you were to wipe oil on the liner, install it, then remove it again, you'd be able to pick up some oil on the liner with a rag.
I would say your primarily correct about the coolant filter. Big part is maintenance of the fluid by adding cleaners and cheese to it. But it still has a paper element so it will filter, it will filter out rust and crap dropped in. On a non industrial vehicle.. no need for a filter. But industrial, the coolant system can be constantly checked. Our vehicles get all fluids ( not diff) checked every time it comes back to the yard.
I used to soak my pistons in oil when rebuilding an engine, but from other sources was taught it is better to use WD40 (yes, WD40) to lube the new rings as using engine oil risks causing the cylinder to glaze upon startup because the compression rings will have to cut through the heavy oil film, which they where not designed to do. In theory, the WD40 will burn off almost instantly, and because the oil system has been primed, there will already be engine oil on the lower portion of the cylinder and piston where the oil rings can do their job. I have since rebuilt a handful of engines lubing the rings/cylinders with WD40 instead of engine oil when installing the pistons in the cylinders. My experience, the rings seat much quicker and better than when I used engine oil. I still lube the wrist pin very generously with engine oil, just not the rings and cylinders.
That’s true. Total Seal says nothing but WD40 on installation. I’ve built Toyota engines for a living for 25 years and never used anything other than penetrant oil. I don’t personally use WD40 but any penetrating spray like Thrust, or PB Blaster will work just fine.
Coolent filters come with and without wet sleeve additive. Ford 7.3 is also prone to cavitation damages even thoeits a dry/non-sleeve block. The 7.3 also had problems with castung sand left behind and working out of the castings causinf pluged oil coolers inturn burnt oil. The coolent "filter" helps prevent oil cooler plugings by "filtering" the sand out.
Coolant has additve packages in them, a coolant filter catches that additive when it falls out (unconstituted) of the coolant. Ford 6.0 a coolant filter really helps and keeps down on cavitation. The additive package is like a sediment substance when it becomes unconstituted and when this happens cavitation increases.
Had those in a clark forklift. Ran great all the time. Just burnt oil after awhile. Always started in the cold. Also had a kramer loader with a perkins. I think ford had them in rangers in the 80s.
We've used liquid nitrogen to install cylinder liners. Especially when doing Honda's that have specialty Leonard to close the upper portion of the deck. Strengthens the engine and keeps everything from moving. But we've also used concrete and epoxy on the bottom portion of the water jacket on BPO Big Blocks.
You can make a crankshaft "bigger" if you nitrite harden after grinding. They will swell. I have seen many standard cranks get ground and nitrited and come out standard journal size. Nitriting is not a normal practice for tractor engines. I come from aviation world, any ground crank gets rehardend.
D Steven Paisley I think the idea of laying a bead inside the old sleeve to pull the metal in is a great idea. I did not like the localized heat hypothesis. It makes no sense.
Yeah but too much heat can be bad. That is why you have to be fast. I wonder if you could put water back in that block with temporary rubber plugs. Honestly I dont think enough heat would be generated to justify it.
I work on big equipment for a living, d11s highwall miners, joy miners, 994 loaders,some huge rebuilds, from 400 big cam Cummins to 3500 series cats if you have to tell people every 20 seconds dont need the negative comments then your doing something right. I watch this shit every evening your a great knuckle buster. people if you can do any better dont be scared to make a channel if you dont like his shit dont watch. You look good from my end ol pal hard to believe youd get any negative feedback. I dont understand people now days. Where I'm from you run your mouth in person. the mechanics I watch on TH-cam are a select few seem alright to me!
There is a good TH-cam video about the guy that designed the Turbinia, the first steam turbine powered boat, a little before WW1. In the video the presenter describes in great detail what Cavitation is and what causes it, as the Turbinia designer was the first person to encounter cavitation and went to great lengths to work out what it was and how to counter it's effects.
I bought a 5lb dead blow hammer just for driving out liners. You can hit something 20 times with a 2lb hammer or twice with a 5lb hammer. As far as liner lock goes, I only apply it to the liner on the last stroke of the press. That prevents it from setting up when the press needs to be reset, but it also makes sure they stay exactly where they are supposed to be while you finish building the block. Heat and the head hold them in place once the engine is together, after it starts the first time the locktight breaks loose from thermal differential anyway.
The perkins gets cavitation home in the liner bored we sub sleeve the blocks.its really prevalent in the 1000 series engines. I'm a factory trained Perkins technician I have taken liners out by running a weld bead in 4 places. The liners are tight enough they won't move once they are installed.
Coolant filters contain dca and you test the dca levels with lithium test strips and you can add dca to your Coolant system eliminating cavitation to your liners it's a good idea to check your dca levels and change your filters or add dca when needed
Very nice work, only comment I have is using that torque wrench to remove the main cap to check the plastigage. I was taught that a torque wrench is only supposed to be used to tighten a fastener until it indicates, not once its already been torqued.
![3.9 Perkins 4-cyl Head Assembly | Massey Ferguson 270 [EP3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C738lm4qnTc/mqdefault.jpg)
![3.9 Perkins 4-cyl Head Assembly | Massey Ferguson 270 [EP3]](/img/tr.png)
![3.9 Perkins 4-cyl Final Assembly | Massey Ferguson 270 [EP4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uVV6V_FoCsI/mqdefault.jpg)
This guy makes wanna rebuild an engine every time I see one of his videos, He explains the ups and downs for doing a job like this, he shows how real it is, not like everything is perfect and it slides together and he shares his opinion. He literally is reason I know anything about diesel engines, he is one of the best mechanics (ill never meet) to help teach someone. One video will educate you so much. Thank You Deboss.
Thanks buddy!
bryan allen Honestly, grab a Honda motor from your wrecker, buy a Haynes manual for it, and just tear it apart. You don’t really need any special tools, and if nothing, you’ll probably have fun re-building it, or just taking it apart. Might as well enjoy it, it’s just gonna end up over seas being remelted into something useless. 😁
The way he shows you step by step. I learn by reading, then being shown once. I love this channel.
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@@DEBOSSGARAGE what state are you in? Awesome video!
i am having trouble watching your show, there is no conflict or bullshit deadlines
LOL... No, this is way better....
If we don’t rebuild this engine, WERE GONNA LOSE THE SHOP
@@samthelegoman3990 tavarish in a nutshell
Man I like watching your videos. Great sense of humor. No nasty talking. Great knowledge base.
You deBOSS!
Hi
Brother
I need workshop menual 3.9
Plz
Used to engineer for Baldwin Filters. MOST Coolant filters do indeed contain SCAs, Supplemental Coolant Additives, and release them into the coolant, while filtering out debris and contaminants. There are different formulations, in fact, and make sure your filter has the right additive Package for your coolant, based on how my glycol you use mostly. There are coolant filters that do not have additive packages, if your company uses regular testing to determine the additive levels and maintain them. (So... no truck fleet on earth outside of heavy industry...) The movement of the liners actually is one of the things that depletes the additive packages.
Kit Iwamatsu how would you find out what filter you need
@@theshadetreewelder3523 You'd look up your filter size, then decide if you want to use a filter with built in SCA, or use a liquid additive. Diesel engines need a different package than gas engines. Standard coolant has everything gas engines need, so no worry there. Standard coolant does NOT have some of the things diesel engines need, like Nitrites, Borate, MBT, and Silicates. Some diesel coolants already have a full additive package, and will suggest to NOT use SCAs in addition to what's already in there. If you are using standard coolants, then you will want the SCAs. If you use a fully formulated coolant, you do not need an SCA right off the bat, and it should last quite some time (600k miles, or roughly 2 years) thought using test strips every oil change isnt a horrible idea to make sure the Additives are at a good level.
You in general should consult your engine maker as for what coolant, and what SCA should be used. If your engine manual doesnt detail this (or is a much older engine and uses outdated stuff) then completely flush the system and use new coolant before picking an SCA package.
Anyway, there are, now, really only two additive packages. SCA, and SCA+. SCA Also called DCA2 and BTE, and SCA+ is also called DCA4 and BTA+. If you engine has a lot of aluminum, or has an aluminum block, you will want SCA+. SCA is fine for all older wet sleeve engines. In either case, you need to keep the concentration in range. There are also some diesels with OAT and HOAT coolants... but that's a different story and you see those on much newer engines, and you definitely will refer to the manual on them.
Yay, learning! Thanks, mate!
@@BadHaddy Thank you for the detailed answer. Not quite the same question,but for gasoline engines with standard Prestone or equivalent,I recollect the additive package is on the order of 2 ounces per gallon(undiluted), and with the natural increase in acidity,the protection offered only lasts so long. So the question is,what is the best way to keep the stuff from going acid ? Water pump lubricant is about the only thing I have ever seen in the auto stores that contains some replacement stuff,is there a better product made by someone ? Failing all else the old timey answer was to add some Sodium Carbonate, but I feel iffy about that with Aluminum radiators,etc. Cheers.
@@paulmanson253 There is nothing you can reasonably do once the coolant becomes acidic. Its just the oxidation of the coolant into oxalic and glycolic acid. The corrosion inhibitors have done their job and it's just time to change the coolant. You cannot simply re-add the inhibitors for gasoline products in a way that makes financial sense. ANY product that claims differently is bunk and snake oil, and probably sold alongside engine honey and gasket sealer (note, all junk.) Since each gaslone engine coolant has its own, rather wildly varying formulation.
The type of coolant you use typically determines it's lifespan. The reason dexcool and all the other OAT and HOAT coolants came along was to greatly extend this service interval. When it comes to older coolants, it seems you can classify makers into 3 categories. Those who used phosphates(Asian), those who used silicates (Euro) and those who used both (Murica). Mostly down to the water that is common in the areas.
Anyway, for older cars using universal/green stuff, just drain and fill. While you're at it, replace your radiator cap. People ignore the hell out of that and you end up with the dexcool paste-stew. Just use deionized water, premix with concentrate, and you're golden. 30k miles seems pretty safe. If you want, get the little floatie-dealie bobber to test your concentration (it's called a hydrometer) and make sure its in the range appropriate for your area. And maybe dip in some strips every other oil change to see if you're still in a good ph range. As long as your coolant bottle isn't turning brown you should be fine. As soon as you see particulates (floaties) and discoloration, drain and fill time.
In 2010 rebuilt a Perkins 2.5 diesel 3 cly. for my IMT 539 tractor now has over 2,600 hrs on it still running strong. You explain things very good. Great video, the 3.9 Perkins 4 cly is one of the best engines.
Kit provided great information regarding cooling system maintenance, and I will just supplement that. The wet sleeve/liner cavitation problem is caused by poor coolant maintenance, whereby air bubble implosions within the coolant remove a protective coating from the exterior of the sleeve/liner. The combustion process causes the sleeve/liner to oscillate (expand and contract) on the thrust side of the piston (as you rightly mentioned) creating an area of low pressure which causes air bubbles to come out of the coolant following the contraction period. After that contraction, the sleeve/liner then expands into the air bubbles causing the air bubbles to implode, creating a shock wave of approximately 60,000 psi against the side of the sleeve/liner, continually removing small amounts of the sleeve/liner material. Eventually, the sleeve/liner wall becomes perforated, allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber causing catastrophic failure.
Hope that helps.
Finally, a mechanic video with educational content. Tool box tours get old.
Love your videos. I learned about cavitation working on a very old locomotive. Inline 6 cylinder with wet sleeves. Sleeves were about 5/8 inch thick and holes about 1/2 inch. Had to get parts from a museum. On locomotives we just run water for coolant with boron for anti corrosion. No coolant filter. We don't shut them down in the winter outside and if we do they are drained.
The last Perkins I rebuilt was an old 4.108. It had dry liners with no lip. You had to set the protrusion while pressing them in, which was fun. Then you had to bore and hone them after being installed. I don't use retainer, in fact I put oil on the liners before pushing them in. I like to plastigauge with no lube on the journal, the lube has a thickness. Good video.
the coked oil will lock and seal them in :)))
Still work at Perkins to this day.....used to machine / assemble these ...never used loctite on any selves...just bolts ...great video....
Takes me back to the years of assembling these at Perkins Peterborough.
The Perkins 3.9 is better known as the 4.236 (4 cylinder, 236 cubic inch), and is nearly identical to the 4.248. Great engines, around 70HP, made with or without the balancer as seen in this engine. Found in many applications like tractors, aircraft tugs and tree chippers. Good vid Mr. D. I welded the liners out of my 236 when I found it impossible to pull them with a plate and all thread puller. Three or four light MIG beads on each, and out they came.
Another method is to use oxyacetylene torch with a neutral flame (flame tip contacting the cylinder) run up and down the bore, one stringer pass to focus heat. Letting it cool will shrink the cylinder allowing it to free up the liner from the block.
You can take a boring bar and bore the linners paper thin. Then peel them out with a sharpened screwdriver! Those linners are so thin that if they are stuck at all it's hard to get a linner puller to grab them!
Good engine you can rebuild them like 4-5 times
These engines, along with the 6-354s that use the same sleeves, pistons, valves, etc. are among the most widely used in the world. The 4-236s were used in thousands of small fishing boats in Third World countries, especially South and Southeast Asia and Africa, but also in the Caribbean, Central America and parts of South America. They were first used in the Massey Ferguson 175 / 180s starting about 1961 and in subsequent Masseys for three decades. They even are in some Allis Chalmers.
You are spot on on the cavitational erosion - the filter has a boron additive that conditions the coolant to slow the process. Like your videos very well.
This is one of the better channels if not the best for learning how to rebuild. He actually tells you specs for bolts and hey this can happen if you don't fallow A C and F steps. Don't forget these steps or you get to redo or have issues such as the fallowing. Which is really important information to us DIY folk. Know if he will just rebuild a 2.5L Chevy iron Duke for a s10. I'd be all set
You're right on with the coolant filter. I'm a 7.3 Powerstroke guy (but we can still be friends) and I do recommend adding the coolant filters to the engines to maintain the SCA levels (Supplemental Coolant Additive) to prevent cavitation. Navistar (the manufacturer of the 7.3/T444E engine) installed a different water pump on their engines that had a filter head built right into the pump. You can get the filters with or without the SCA additive, but while they do filter grit out of the coolant flowing through them, they also add SCA. It's a double benefit.
So glad I found this channel . My dad and I have rebuilt a few tractor engines over the years , but never a Perkins abs this fall I’ll be rebuilding our case 1210 with a Perkins 👌👍👍thank you for uploading . Friends from Alberta
On a wet sleeve engine in addition to a water filter, many also had a de-aeration line to help avoid cavitation next to the liner wall.
Great work. No need for comments about your efficacy, as your attention to detail comes across very well. Opinions are like hinder holes, everybody has one. I was taken out of the workforce 6 years ago for medical reasons over in the North Dakota section of the Bakken. Your videos are a great escape for me as I haven't been able to wrench on much other than my lawn mower since. Thanks for doing them. They are good emotional therapy. Cheers gear head.
Hey thank you for the tip using the sharpening stone on the deck!
Hell yeah shout out to Mechanical Stig @8:27! Two amazing mechanics sharing knowledge is always great to see. Would love to see a collaboration at some point.
;) th-cam.com/video/0Q1PPZTtGEM/w-d-xo.html
How did I miss this? Lol wish granted I suppose!
Only one thing, I use one small drip of "tread-lock" on main and rod end caps bolts after checking the fit.
In the old days we used to drill though the bolt heads and wire them, but thread-lock works even better.
You can't beat those Perkins engines, they have proved to be excellent over time. Thanks for your demo.
I was just getting ready to comment on one of your videos to see if you had one on changing dry sleeves. Then I found this. Getting ready to pull the Mitsubishi 4d55t I swapped into my Mazda to rebuild it. Those video(and series) gives me some hope. Thanks Rich!
I just subscribed because I bought a 1990 Massey Ferguson 3070 tractor with the 3.9 Perkins engine that has recently been rebuilt. Wanting to learn more about the engine. Thanks for the video. You did good explaining.
@debossgarage I'm not trying to argue, but I thought cavitation was due to the vapour bubbles imploding against the walls!
You've givin me alot of help with my schooling and I really appreciate this channel! Thanks for your great work and awesome channel! Wish more people were like you!
Yep your correct I think. I was taught this too
The weld bead along the length of the sleeve technique works great! Just don't go crazy and burn holes!
I have seen guys pack the cylinder liners in dry ice , they basically fell into the bores. Thanks
Fill a pan with kerosene, put the parts in that, then put in the deep freeze or dry ice box.
we have always used dry ice to install liners and it works great. the new coolants have dca attitive in the coolant to avoid liner cavitation. or if you use glycol then run a dca additive filter.
Using a sharpening stone! What an awesome idea!
Make sure to buy a precision ground stone, or get your local machine shop to grind them flat.
Definitely DON'T use a stone that was used to sharpen a knife. Sharpening a knife makes a belly in the center of the stone, and if the stone isn't flat you will do more harm than good.
Stoning a deck is really handy for telling what the surface looks like. The stone will show shiny spots on any high points, and it will show stuff that you can't see or feel. Often stoning the deck is what I use to decide if a block goes to the machine shop or not.
cant beat working on your own truck whilst watching de boss
If you have a local place to get dry ice fill up an igloo cooler that’s big enough for a sleeve or all of them to fit in. A freezer isn’t cold enough to shrink them much. Probably won’t need a press using dry ice. Great videos.
I really enjoy these videos. This makes for much better, and much easier to watch during dinner, than, say, cable news.... TJ
I use that welding trick when removing bearing races also. Works great on wheel bearings.
welding a bead down the sleeve is a trick that's been around forever. I worked in a machine shop in the early 90's. used to do it to pull liners and pressed in valve seats in aluminum heads. those where gas motors though. I don't know about dry sleeves in a diesel. keep up the great work.
Did an Isuzu 4hf1 at work a month ago. Cheap bastard client didn't want to do crankshaft bearings, said they were ok and had been done within the decade. However, they did opt for a new clutch. Long story short, new clutch finished off what was left of the thrust bearings and spun all of the rest
Cool seeing you do this. I worked at one of the perkins distributors and rebuilding shops. Pretty interesting. I’ve seen all these parts about a million times. Those balances aren’t cheap
I learned a sharpening stone does great honing flat surfaces when I used to rebuild centrifuges. Good tip boss man!
Rebuilt a dry sleeve engine with an old mechanic-he put the sleeves in our freezer and after they cooled about a day they slipped almost all the way in by gravity. He finished them by hand. I was impressed
It was an 400? cubic inch IH diesel . A bigger bore with more room to contract.
The whetstone is a highly underrated prep tool. I do a lot of aluminum small engines and it's great for mating surfaces that only get a coat of ThreeBond. Love the channel!
Awesome vid bro I'm a marine/offshore diesel mechanic of 25 years experience, you were correct about wet liner cavitation, the only thing I can tell you is don't hit the piston when installing into liner,push the piston down completely with handle
I enjoy your channel. While watching your 3.9 Perkins 4-cyl Dry Sleeve Engine Rebuild | Massey Ferguson 270 [EP2] video ....the part where you were struggling to remove the dry sleeve, the thought occurred to me that freezing the inner sleeve would maybe contract it enough that it would press out a lot easier. Being a physical scientist, I considered how you could accomplish this. What I came up with is quite simple and hope that in the future you might give it a try. seal the bottom of the cylinder with some silicone and a round piece of wood or plastic lid of the correct diameter. fill the cylinder to the top with crushed ice and some water. Let it sit a minute or two and I suspect the sleeve should contract a few thousands thereby making the extraction much easier.
When stripping the AD3.152 or AD4.203. We just catch the liner edge with either a long narrow chisel or clean flat screwdriver and peel it to the top til it collapses in. Never had an issue.
I was tought to never use ATF in an engine build. the ATF will cause a glaze on the cylinder on first start, rings wont seat right...
You are right. It was 15w40 in a container that had ATF in it. The ATF was drained, just a little residue on the bottom.
@@DEBOSSGARAGE
Thanks
We used to use a bigger sleeve with a chunk of flat bar and a long threaded rod to pull them out on a few motors the bang would indeed catch you off guard. The press way is Uber better. Plasti Guage is good stuff. Great video.
Coolant filters have little pellets of SCA's in solid form rattling around in them until you run them a bit and the pellets dissolve and mix into the coolant.
put your liners in the freezer.........they will tap in nicely. Just work quickly because obviously as they warm up they start to grab the block. I once worked on a mack truck ( EA7-470) that even welding the liners wouldnt get one liner out. So we jacked up the entire front of the truck ( 4500kg) resting on the liner, ran another weld down the stubborn liner, and came back 60 minutes later after lunch..........that moved it =) AS always, get the specs and make sure the finished liner protrusion is on the manufacturers specs so that when the head is torqued down it gets the correct crush fit and a good seal.
If you watched the video... he actually did freeze them. -18c on a 0c day.
Yup, Keep the block at room temp. Sleeves in a freezer overnight. Have it together to work fast and get the new sleeve home in a few seconds. I've been doing this since 1964 on Farmall H and M series with "firecrater" set ups.
An old timer showed me how to remove old sleeves by running an arc welder up the inside of the old sleeve with very small fast beads
What it dose is it shrinks it then they literally fall out.
Done it many times
Funny, that's exactly what he said in the video, ylu must've missed that part.
Another great video, my old boss who was a machinist and an engine builder used to say that plastigauge was made for jack legs who don't have the brains to read the mics and precision tools necessary to measure proper clearances. And he would tell us that if you have to use plastigauge then you need to go get a job working on briggs and stratton lawnmower engines. I personally never had any issues using plastigauge - as long as he never saw me using it. To him that was an offense to be fired over!
6:50 no joke. When you rack up the tons on that gauge it gets scary. I bought an air over hydraulic press just so that I can actuate it from a safe distance. I'll stand besides the post and look through the little hole with safety glasses on.
Nah bro, your neighbor is a genius. I have done that with a bearing race in a blind hole in an aluminum transfer case. The secret is speed. In my case the race was thin so I used a TIG torche You want to minimize the heat transfer. ESPECIALLY with aluminum on the other side. TIG is hot fast. I ran a "bead", just heat from the bottom of the blind hole to the top. Took 2 maybe 3 seconds. Then I threw cold water on it. Done. I could almost pick it out with my fingers where I broke an inside puller on it 20 minutes earlier. I bet if you could take a big TIG and run a "bead"(no metal just heat) from the bottom to the top where the sleeve is backed up by the thickest part of the block it would be no problem especially since that sleeve looks pretty thin. Actual welding puts in too much heat and tries to warp the sleeve though I don't doubt it would work. I just think the TIG works better because it is faster. Soon as the sleeve cools a bit it almost stops putting heat into the cast iron block. Dump some water in immediately afterwords and the block should barely be warm.
An air hammer sometimes works great when driving out dry liners. Sometimes it won’t, worth a shot!
you can get over sized maim bearings for cats if you've had the block line bored.
Benny's Custom Works! (mechanical stig)
Even a Bad Boy Bubby reference, you know your Australian stuff!
I use the weld method to pull old bearing shells and bushings.....it works like a champ!
I have only ever come across one dry liner engine, that was a 1956 Leyland diesel. The liners were an easy hand slide in and out and the manufacturers service book said to coat the liners in engine oil to aid heat transfer. On wet liners I was told to run a 50% anti freeze mixture to stop cavitation, this raises the boiling point. Cavitation works by bubbles forming from reduced pressure lowering the boiling point of the liquid and then the bubbles imploding blasting the metal away, raise the boiling point and the pressure needs to be even lower for bubbles to form.
Best youtube channel there is.
Use red anti freeze. ELC, extended life coolant. Has rust inhibitors and considerably less cavitation. Or so our local Cummins shop told me. I switched everything I own to ELC.
Made a carefully shaped drift to carve straight down the side of liners, works a treat, no marks, I do this because I often fit liners and pistons with the engine in situ. Although it's not strickly correct, I have always found the new liners will go in easy by tapping with a wooden block, never needed to cool them. My engine man always bores the block if the liners slide too easy and fits oversize liners, also he always uses unfinished liners and bores them once in the block as they were originally.
My work we use filters with out additives because we use a coolant that has those additives in it.
Ive seen this debate before. Do you leave the plastiguage behind or remove it before put the caps back on. Some people have told me to leave it wont hurt anything and touching the race is worse. Some people say remove it for fear of spinning a bearing
I'm told it's safe to leave but I carefully remove it
Yeah your correct I used to work for a John Deere workshop in Australia and they do have a filter for the coolant and specialy designed coolant to prevent cavetation but it still does happen just takes a lot longer with the right coolant
I E-mailed you a question but haven't heard back. On the three cylinder Perkins tractor engine , do I need a special puller or tool to replace the seal for the tach drive on the back of the engine? It weeps oil bad through the hole on the small housing cover. Any help would be appreciated. Great videos.
Great job I've used a home made puller with an all tread rod and some spacers and I freeze em before I put em in don't ever use any kind of glue to hold them you'll regret it
Just did the Perkins in my Massey Ferguson 240. Saw a guy on TH-cam hammer a tiny "soft" steel screw driver down the side and basically unzip the cast sleeve, then pulled it out.
Worked like a charm 🙏
Also, I used liquid nitrogen to shrink my liners since I was doing it in the frame.... They dropped right in. And swelled up to normal size within seconds.... So don't fuck up.
Perkins 4236. A terrific engine.
Which "green" Loctite? 601, 609, 620, 635, 680? They are all different and have different cure times. Some are lubricated, some not. If you chill the liner before insertion, then you won't get the friction heat buildup which causes spot curing. The cured Loctite resin will only reside in the low spots or valleys of the surface profile. The high spots or peaks will still remain in contact. These are your primary heat transfer tracks, the valleys usually contain air (which does not transfer heat very well). The cured resin transmits heat at about 10 times that of air. So, your 'Loctite' mounted sleeves will actually conduct heat better than the non mounted areas.
When you opened the freezer where is DEbeef?
In DeBack?
Maybe at DeBottom?
Have had to weld beads on press fit tapered bearing races to help aid in removal. Its a real nice trick.
Super informative video as always sir I will admit I dont know much about diesel engines but looks pretty straight forward as its gas cousin lube plastic gauge and triple check everything
I dont see how any loctite will be between the liner and block after pressing them into a press fit hole in the block, it will be all scraped off while driving the liners in. I rebuilt a 248 perkins a few months ago it just made a big mess when putting the liners in and trapped it under the flange on the last few thousands.
Gets between the tiny scratches in the liner and block. If you were to wipe oil on the liner, install it, then remove it again, you'd be able to pick up some oil on the liner with a rag.
Worrying about the little bit of heat from welding to remove the liners is a non issue, it is momentary and will not affect anything!
Great video. Starting on a complete engine overhaul on my MF255. Thanks for sharing all the info!
Great vid, much prefer this style of presenting...keep ‘em coming
I would say your primarily correct about the coolant filter. Big part is maintenance of the fluid by adding cleaners and cheese to it.
But it still has a paper element so it will filter, it will filter out rust and crap dropped in. On a non industrial vehicle.. no need for a filter. But industrial, the coolant system can be constantly checked. Our vehicles get all fluids ( not diff) checked every time it comes back to the yard.
I used to soak my pistons in oil when rebuilding an engine, but from other sources was taught it is better to use WD40 (yes, WD40) to lube the new rings as using engine oil risks causing the cylinder to glaze upon startup because the compression rings will have to cut through the heavy oil film, which they where not designed to do. In theory, the WD40 will burn off almost instantly, and because the oil system has been primed, there will already be engine oil on the lower portion of the cylinder and piston where the oil rings can do their job. I have since rebuilt a handful of engines lubing the rings/cylinders with WD40 instead of engine oil when installing the pistons in the cylinders. My experience, the rings seat much quicker and better than when I used engine oil. I still lube the wrist pin very generously with engine oil, just not the rings and cylinders.
Thanks for that!
That’s true. Total Seal says nothing but WD40 on installation. I’ve built Toyota engines for a living for 25 years and never used anything other than penetrant oil. I don’t personally use WD40 but any penetrating spray like Thrust, or PB Blaster will work just fine.
Coolent filters come with and without wet sleeve additive. Ford 7.3 is also prone to cavitation damages even thoeits a dry/non-sleeve block. The 7.3 also had problems with castung sand left behind and working out of the castings causinf pluged oil coolers inturn burnt oil. The coolent "filter" helps prevent oil cooler plugings by "filtering" the sand out.
Use dry ice to remove old sleeve you can also install new sleeve with dry ice just do not get to cold used this for 42 years.
Coolant has additve packages in them, a coolant filter catches that additive when it falls out (unconstituted) of the coolant. Ford 6.0 a coolant filter really helps and keeps down on cavitation. The additive package is like a sediment substance when it becomes unconstituted and when this happens cavitation increases.
Had those in a clark forklift. Ran great all the time. Just burnt oil after awhile. Always started in the cold. Also had a kramer loader with a perkins. I think ford had them in rangers in the 80s.
Rings go bad because of wrong oil, air filter not on right. They'll run long time burn oil. Good engine
We've used liquid nitrogen to install cylinder liners. Especially when doing Honda's that have specialty Leonard to close the upper portion of the deck. Strengthens the engine and keeps everything from moving.
But we've also used concrete and epoxy on the bottom portion of the water jacket on BPO Big Blocks.
Famoso Perkins 4 cilindros um dos melhores do motores do mundo 😂❤
Original Gojo is the best lube for wet sleeves. I work in the marine industry and that's what they use.
Is the inside of that engine coated with glyptal or is that a high temperature paint?
You can make a crankshaft "bigger" if you nitrite harden after grinding. They will swell. I have seen many standard cranks get ground and nitrited and come out standard journal size.
Nitriting is not a normal practice for tractor engines. I come from aviation world, any ground crank gets rehardend.
Stainless rods work well for welding for pulling bushings
D Steven Paisley
I think the idea of laying a bead inside the old sleeve to pull the metal in is a great idea. I did not like the localized heat hypothesis. It makes no sense.
running a bead of weld on the inside of the weld is a good tip. Heat works wonders
Yeah but too much heat can be bad. That is why you have to be fast. I wonder if you could put water back in that block with temporary rubber plugs. Honestly I dont think enough heat would be generated to justify it.
Love the video, thank you from Cork Ireland.
I work on big equipment for a living, d11s highwall miners, joy miners, 994 loaders,some huge rebuilds, from 400 big cam Cummins to 3500 series cats if you have to tell people every 20 seconds dont need the negative comments then your doing something right. I watch this shit every evening your a great knuckle buster. people if you can do any better dont be scared to make a channel if you dont like his shit dont watch. You look good from my end ol pal hard to believe youd get any negative feedback. I dont understand people now days. Where I'm from you run your mouth in person. the mechanics I watch on TH-cam are a select few seem alright to me!
There is a good TH-cam video about the guy that designed the Turbinia, the first steam turbine powered boat, a little before WW1. In the video the presenter describes in great detail what Cavitation is and what causes it, as the Turbinia designer was the first person to encounter cavitation and went to great lengths to work out what it was and how to counter it's effects.
I bought a 5lb dead blow hammer just for driving out liners. You can hit something 20 times with a 2lb hammer or twice with a 5lb hammer.
As far as liner lock goes, I only apply it to the liner on the last stroke of the press. That prevents it from setting up when the press needs to be reset, but it also makes sure they stay exactly where they are supposed to be while you finish building the block. Heat and the head hold them in place once the engine is together, after it starts the first time the locktight breaks loose from thermal differential anyway.
"I don't want to weld it so I'm gonna hit it with a hammer." 🤣
hammer is not as hot as a weld -
The perkins gets cavitation home in the liner bored we sub sleeve the blocks.its really prevalent in the 1000 series engines. I'm a factory trained Perkins technician I have taken liners out by running a weld bead in 4 places. The liners are tight enough they won't move once they are installed.
you can buy a new mwm/navistar from Brasil, very similar a cummins, very cheap, for 5k, to marine use too. 4 and 6 cylinders, turbo or non turbo.
Coolant filters contain dca and you test the dca levels with lithium test strips and you can add dca to your Coolant system eliminating cavitation to your liners it's a good idea to check your dca levels and change your filters or add dca when needed
From what I know coolant filters filter. It’s the additives in the coolant that do the protecting.
Wonder how this compares to the new sisu diesels
Learn so much from Deboss ty do much buddy for sharing ur knowledge!! Coming from West Virginia
Very nice work, only comment I have is using that torque wrench to remove the main cap to check the plastigage. I was taught that a torque wrench is only supposed to be used to tighten a fastener until it indicates, not once its already been torqued.
The coolant filters actually have a sacrificial Anode inside them also, to take the electrolytic corrosion away of the indifferent metals.
My 2.5 is leaking oil out of the weep hole under the tach mounting plate. Only does it when it runs for a while. Any ideas? Your videos are good.
How square do you need to be pressing in the sleeve? Will it "make up" as you press it in? Great video as always Rich! Love watchin ya!