I restored one those old tractors for a Family friend that pulled Parade Floats with it . Block was cracked identical to this one . We acid dipped the block , installed the liners , assembled the engine . Then we poured low viscosity epoxy in the block and pressurized it into the cracks. That was 25 years ago .That tractor had 300 hrs on it when i saw it in 2023, when it was pulling the old gentleman's casket, in his funeral procession . His son , said they used the tractor regularly on the farm , for light duty tasks , and never has leaked.
@@billvandorn5332I can't speak for what the other guy used but there is a TH-cam channel called build it yourself where they used some epoxy to seal up water jackets on some heads they made that would probably be appropriate.
A ceramic sealer called irontite works wonders for similar situations. They used to use it a lot in Nascar on the heavily modified heads because they knew they were going to crack during the race and that was the only way to get them thru.
My father in law had a two cylinder John Deere M that he tended his garden with for years. He pulled a hay wagon at my wedding with the bridal party on it and it barely made it. He always said it was worn out and after some family restructuring, it ended up sitting in my back yard for 6-7 years. He finally decided to sell it and asked me to try to start it. After a new battery and a carb rebuild, it ran like it did before. I decided to pull the valve cover to check for oiling and adjust the valves. Something didn’t look right so I investigated further and found a bent push rod with considerable wear at the bend. I straightened it out, adjusted the lash and she fired up and ran like a champ. Poor thing limped on one cylinder for 15 years.
I am of the mind that the flywheel ring gear was repaired with everything together through the starter hole rather than going through all the effort of splitting the tractor. A true farm repair.
Good to see how a lifetime’s worth of experience factors into the quality of work done by a mechanic. Your son is the lucky beneficiary of all of your hard work in more ways than one. Thanks for documenting this basic engine teardown and diagnosis.
That bolt in the water neck is actually stock! Mine had one until I installed a water temp gauge in 2000. Water temp gauge was an optional add for the Ferguson TO-30's. Even had to pop out the steel cut-out plate in the "dash" for the gauge. To a teenager at the time, giving my Ferggie an actual "optional" item nearly 50 years later was such a sense of accomplishment.
That makes sense. I was wondering why a hack solution bothered with filing a hex head bolt square. The truth is it's just a low quality pipe thread plug.
It amazing to see a father and son who can work together like this and enjoy each other's company. I wasn't lucky enough to experience that, but I aim to create that with my children. It's very inspiring.
The "Wackie Weed" in the ditches is probably industrial grade hemp used to make rope. I grew up in North Central Indiana, and my grandfather grew it during the war years. It still can be seen popping up in corn fields.
You can still grow it legally now,it costs like 600dollars up for a license to grow industrial hemp,it has to have less than.3 percent of delta 9 THC but it can have all the delta 8 THC or THC A that it will produce and the THC A will convert to Delta 9 THC when heated ( burned) and they also make all the CBD products from it, basically legal dope thanks to the farm bill
The early antifreeze was alcohol. It slowly evaporated away with the heating cycles, so you had to add more alcohol as routine maintenance, especially in the winter. The "permanent type antifreeze" , ethylene glycol ,was a vast improvement!
My father talked about draining the water from trucks in the late fall, then filling the rad with kerosene. It didn't overheat and never froze. Otherwise they had to let the big engines idle all winter. A lot of people in the late 50's didn't trust ethylene glycol and ran the alcohol all winter, then switched to water in the spring. There was a lot of rad flushing going on back then.
Not only are the details of what they are doing and the discussions of what they see exceptional, the chemistry between Jim and Nicholas is fun to watch. Jim is so humble, yet his knowledge and experience are amazing while Nicholas is shaping up to be just like Dad. I never imagined I'd find the teardown of a 1950s tractor engine so interesting.
As my grandpa used to like to say, "Poor People Have Poor Ways". That saying is proven true when this engine is being torn down. My brother in law who was a young farmer in the early 50's told how he sometimes wasn't sure if he had drained the water out of the tractor and after he was already in bed, he would have to get up and get dressed and go out and make sure. A couple times it saved him from disaster. I think alcohol was used early on but it was never ideal.
Alcohol would evaporate under heat... and most tractors had very low or no pressure radiator caps... so after a day's tractor work more alcohol would have to be tipped in to make up for the losses..
I can identify with you on that I used to work for plant hire company in my village here in the uk and my bosses dad had an old fordson major tractor and he used to drain the water off every night and fill it up twice the next morning in the winter to get it to start easier it happens all over the place back in the day👍
Do a search for "cross bolting a cracked ferguson block" (there is some videos on youtube showing it), cross bolting was a very common fix for these engines (some will say they were cracked when new).
With the construction of the block, it wouldn't be surprising if it was cracked out of the factory. Having a two piece cast block with a press fit wet sleeve is just begging for problems.
@@GGigabiteM the lower sleeve fit is most definitely not a press fit. The upper fit is. And it isn't a '2 piece ' cast block, the seam was in the pattern.
My Father fixed one like that, (late 90s) with heating the block over a grill, and V-Cut the cracks, and welded with nickel rod (stick welder) I honed the holes and put sleeves into it, and its still running today.
I have a TO-30 that was rebuilt before I got it. The block was cracked and it had bolts across the block from one side to the other to hold the cracks closed. It does not leak.
I purchased a 1953 f-500 in 1973 with the 239 ohv. No .010 bearings available or gaskets for the heads. Turned bearings 180 and reused head gaskets but did find rings with cylinders at .004 taper . Farmer here, hauled farm equipment from Spokane to Seattle and sold in 1979 with over 10k miles on the truck. Farmers make do with what’s is at hand. Like your videos 😊
It is impressive to see an engine from the 50s with more rust than oil leakage on the outside. Just a heads up from someone that has been working on rusty sht for many decades. When using an impact to remove rusty nuts and they get stuck in the socket. Keep the socket on the gun but press the side of the socket against a solid, heavy object. Hold your other hand under the socket and run the gun. Unless the nut is smashed into the socket it will shoot out into your hand.
You got to love those farmer repairs. I spent 15 years working in a Chrysler Plymouth Dodge dealer in a small farming community. Some of the vehicles that came in were cobbled up to the point that I had to repair the cobble job before I could diagnose the original problem.
What a pity that you're not able to complete this rebuild. That year, thereabouts, but the English version with the Standard Vanguard engine was the first vehicle I learned to drive as about a 14 year old in Northern Rhodesia. I was at boarding school and a school friend invited me back to his parent's farm near Lusaka for an extended weekend when I couldn't go home. One short lesson on what to do and what not, and I spent almost every waking hour driving the wheels off that tractor. What fun. Learned all sorts of bad habits that bit me in the butt when it came time to get my drivers licence a few years later. Looking forward to the next rescue. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🕊🇺🇦🕊🇺🇲🦃💩👆 p.s. in Africa, I don't recall anything like antifreeze in our engines until I purchased my first new car, a Fiat 125, which was delivered with antifreeze in the engine. However, we seldom got to freezing, let alone below, and I never purchased antifreeze until I came to Canada in 1979.
Those crank shims are important. A friend of mine had a 259 Studebaker V8 "Professionally rebuilt" He put it back in the car and it would break a flex plate right quick! After a couple of times if changing that flex plate, he brought it to me. The only thing I knew to do was pull the engine and look it over. I discovered the crank had .200 - .250 end play! It turns out Studebaker had no thrust main bearing. You had to adjust the end play with shims, behind timing gear. Like this engine. Also there is also a hard metal piece that fits in there surface ground to precision, not just shims. He went back to the professional to recover the pieces, but he had already thrown them out! Be careful of some shops! You guys do a good job. Even the clean up guy!
Had a shop do my clutch that mechanical linkage: they put it together dry with no grease and threw out the weird washers they didn't understand. Went back for the missing parts and same. They said it was easy so the new guy did it.
I don't think its cracked from heat. Two reasons. It's just not that hot at the bottom, and, when coolant is low that's the last place it disappears from. Not saying it never got hot, but farmers have a bad habit of doing bad things in a pinch, like pouring water in and forgetting at the end of season that their coolant had been compromised. Here in Michigan wintertime is an unforgiving enemy of engine blocks.
One of your best videos yet. Love the discussion back and forth. Really provides tons of information and give excellent insight as to what you guys are thinking and looking for as you conduct a forensic tear down of the engine.
Thanks, Grandpa guy. I appreciate the looks into the past for the younger set. Things were done differently then. Money was tight. Parts weren't cheap. A lot of these tractors were re-ringed in chassis. Low compression, high clearances. Go to a heavier weight oil. Small farms with low prices for what you grew. My dad had a Farmall Super H overhauled and the guy talked him into high compression pistons for the gasoline tractor. The engine ran almost as well with the ignition switch turned off afterwards. We converted the tractor to Propane and it was fine.
Carbon ignition system.....one speck of glowing carbon in the cylinder is all it takes with gasoline/petrol but propane is harder to ignite....and loves high compression....to compensate for lower calorific value of the fuel....
It's a pleasure to watch Jim. The wealth of knowledge from decades of experience. What too look for. Old tricks of the trade not taught today. The history of engines. These videos are so instructive and enjoyable to watch.
Furnace brazing and enough time can fix almost anything, that block can be furnace brazed and have the crack fixed. ALSO if you put in new sleeves you can use epoxy on the bottom of block, like hardblock just epoxy instead. That will basically grout the sleeves in and seal it up. I have had to do this with rare euro stuff that's simply no supply.
Doing that probably would do the job, but basically it's a bodge job. I seriously doubt that Jim would do such a thing as it's his reputation at stake and a matter of his guarantee.
Thanks for an excellent video that was informative and interesting and enjoyable. I am new to your channel and this video is one of several of yours I have watched recently. I am an 80 year old car enthusiast and the machine shop work was always my passion. In my younger years I went through a fair share of hot rods, so to speak, and what makes an engine tick. So I thought your channel would be most interesting and help me relive those hot rod engine days. The old ford tractor engine you have taken apart in this video is most definitely interesting. Appreciate your voice over as to what you both see in the parts for wear and tear and the history behind them. Looking forward to your channel and reassembling this engine step by step. Thanks for everything. You both take care and be safe. The retired Air Force veteran.
Shame that is such a common problem on those old Ferguson tractors. Problem is that so many of them cracked blocks over the years. My dad had one that the block cracked on it and it was only about 10 years old when that happened. Being it was NW PA, you never run just water in them. So it cracked with coolant vs being straight water. We'll see what happens but that would probably be the end of the road for that Ferguson for most folks.
Hi boys, have you ever made a video on the history of Jim, how it all came to be, from cleaning guy to a successful engine builder. Would make a terrific video, regards Jim
I bought a steam cleaner a few years ago and loved it. I started cleaning EVERYTHING. One day I found an area of old cat pee... Never made that mistake again...
I found an old bottle in the basement ceiling of a old farmhouse. It was blue glass and had a picture of a horse on it. Can't remember what was written on it. I pulled the cork and took a whiff and my vision turned blue with purplish spots for a second. Good stuff!
Greetings from Germany: Always interesting to watch how to tear it down and see what's inside then the fixes and machining process. I rebuilt my VW air cooled engine that had sucked a valve. I followed the mail order book pretty much to the 'T' except for the crank line bore... I was trying to save money but at the end I sold the old bus before the leak got too bad for a reasonable price. (I did inform the buyer of the slight leak at the rear main.) After watching your TH-cam channel now for a while along with some others, I realized that there were a few steps I missed and or was not aware of. If I were to do it again, I would do my best to do it better. 😉 Like some of your viewers comment on agree. Experience over time is the best teacher. Keep up the Good work and looking forward to your next job.
the machine shop i worked in in the 70's-90's we had that Perfect Circle Manulathe, all the different sizes of spacer. also had a piston knurlier and used a Van Norman Rotary Broach, mid 80's got Winona Van Norman seat and guide machine and Neway seat cutters, before that used a Sioux seat cutter for replacement seats and Sioux seat grinder and valve reface machine. really enjoyed working and running that shop.
I love watching you guys mostly because you're not a high volume machine shop and you don't mind taking on these old Motors. It's fun as hell to watch you tackle this old equipment
That Gerber Life ad took me for a loop, I thought that company didn't exist anymore😂 Some of my earliest memories were of seeing their TV ads "You can start a Gerber Life plan for just Pennies a day!"😂😂
I think you should make a "make it work" video. Make a spreder that opens up the cracks and cleen them well and put red high temp silicon in them, then bore a through hole in the middle of the crack and through bolt to hold it thight, then make a bigger to smaller key in the crank. I know about Toyota picup that drived for many years with crack in the head that had a filled up crack with red silicon that was put in the crack with rubber hammer. It never gave up. The red silicon can stand over 600°c
If tractor engines could talk they could tell you some stories ! Early "rebuilds" were so common. I've done my share but only if wear was minimal. Parts and kits are now very affordable to the restorers for old iron. I just did a IH F12 and F 20 Farmall engine. Amazing how easy and simple they are.
Absolutely LOVE the interactions between you two! I've rebuilt several engines over the years, but your work is extremely impressive! You have saved many engines from the scrap pile! Keep up the good work. You are doing a great job of teaching a new generation of rebuilders, with these videos...! LOL! Look up the song Wildwood Weed by Jim Stafford, from the 70s...
I love your show,I was bought up on old tractors,worked for tractor companies in the 70,s ,we must remember those blocks were part of the chassis, if the machine took a thump on the front axle,,,who knows where the forces went,,just a thought from an old timer who used to own one.Cheers,your son is so fortunate to have your vast knowledge to draw on.
I had a Ford tractor come in for repair about 25 years ago that was leaking coolant internally from a crack in the block. I drained the coolant, pulled the front half of the tractor off for better access and to get the radiator out of the way. Then I flushed and cleaned the block several times. After that I bypassed the radiator and ran it with straight water until I got the engine good and hot. Then I drained the water, pulled the thermostat, and poured a bottle of liquid glass into it. I do not remember if I had to add water with it or not but I pressurized the system with 5psi of air for 15 minutes then I let it set with no pressure on it for about an hour before I drained everything out. Once I had everything drained out I let it set overnight and reassembled everything the next day. I ran it around the farm bush hogging all week and never lost any coolant. So I told the customer to run it and keep an eye on it. I figured it would at least get him through hay season and we could fix it right later. I heard last year that they never did anything else to it and they are still using it regularly.
I've dealt with several Ferguson Continental engines and the cracks at the bottom cylinder bore seem to be common, I also believe like you that this is the result of freezing. My own TO-30 had this problem and the machine shop used what they called racers epoxy in the bottom of thr coolant jacket. I have between 400-500 hours on that engine now with no overheating or coolant leaks. Enjoy your videos, keep them coming.
You two guys are entertaining but most of all very informative and true professionals. I truly wish I had a machine shop of your caliber near me. Thanks for a great video machine head dude's
It's nice to watch the two of you work together, as my father and I did in the late 60s and through the 70s! It's also refreshing to see the PROPER tip being used on the torch for heating... drives me crazy to see cutting tips being used where a rosebud is called for! LOL!
Have you guys ever used locknstitch? Its a way to repair cast iron amd aliminum. Jay leno has used it several times to repair really old destroyed engines. Lock n stitch. You can fix that block. Its repairable.
These engines were built to be stationary power sources, Ferguson and other tractor manufacturers adapted them to the tractors and used the block as part of the chassis. I think the strain of driving on rough terrain resulted in flexing and cracking the block. Continental later refused to sell parts for any engine used for tractor application.
I have a Massey to35 myself. I love the little tractor. I bought it used in rough shape. It actually has green paint on it under the gray paint. Was told by Yesterday Tractor that it could have been a military unit. Truly enjoyed the tear down video, very informative. Keep up the good work.
I have a ‘53. It’s doing a great job holding the floor down. Went through the head and replaced a valve and very slightly bent pushrod. The engine ran perfect for 30 minutes then oil fouled every plug and puked out of the rear seal.
I knew a guy about 40 years ago to that rebuilt engines . A guy he knew brought his car in because the soft plugs blew out or worse .it was 40 years ago and I dont recall if he cracked the block . It had straight wster in it. He asked why he only had water in his car snd he was told " It's from the spring behind my house and it never freezes" . The mechanic wasnt a BSer and I know people that would probably do the same
I mean the cleaning guy had kind of a ring to it, the cleaning Grandpa that sounds more dignified, but I'm going to miss the cleaning guy because well cleaning guy just had such an authority. Can't stay a cleaning guy forever I guess, I really appreciate your guys's videos I've learned quite a bit from you. I apply it to all the classic cars I work on will every car even the brand new ones. It's rare to find a channel like you guys. This is why I'm thankful for your channel and the education that you have provided me, for free
we were poor farmers in southern Minnesota and my dad always had a long sheep skin overcoat that was put on the radiator of our H Farmall and we had water and drained it at the end of the day, we did not have extra money to purchase anti-freeze, so in the day as our country was coming out of WWII, we got by with much less.
I had an old FarmAll and it also had water in the crank but most came from sitting with the exhaust broke off and water filling up the cylinders. Amazingly it all worked out.
Racers use engine block fillers to strengthen their blocks. Since the crack is at the bottom of the bore where there is less heat, after installing new sleeves, wouldn't it be possible to fill the bottom couple inches of the block with that compound to eliminate the leak? Coolant circulation at the bottom of a cylinder is not that critical.
I used to wrap black electrical tape around the puller block so it would clear the cylinder block which always worked for me The wet sleeves get cavitation from aeration in the coolant due to improper coolant maintenance Which is very common in wet sleeves engines (The aeration bubbles stick to the cylinder liner and as the compression in the cylinder on the power stroke causes the liner to expand and contract the aeration bubbles implode causing cavitation of the cylinder liner )
I live in a rural area in far north Queensland Australia, we moved here 17 years ago from Sydney, Australia's largest city. I spent my life in production machining until we moved up here. I started working up here in a small machine shop doing jobbing work mainly on farming equipment. Your comment regarding farmer welding reminded me of a comment my boss made, he a German toolmaker said " most farmers up here should work for NASA" I asked why, he said " only a farmer can weld aluminium to cast iron then weld that to steel with rods out in a feild and make it work". The reason they can do that? Because no one has told them they can't!🤔
Great tear down boys with good commentary and analysis. I am continually amazed by frieze damage to engines, living in the sunshine of Queensland, Australia I am not familiar with it even though I run anti freeze fluids in all my engines to save on electrolysis. Can’t wait to see what the customer decides to do going forward, buy another block and youll need to be sure it’s not suffering the same or similar conditions. I think the short block would be the ideal way out. Thank you for posting
Those bolts that come from the inside on the rear main are a joy. Man there were a ton of working words when I realized I had to pull the pan to get that retainer out.
Oh Yeah, knurling pistons and guides, cutting O/S ring grooves, honing for O/S wrist pins. We did a lot to squeeze additional life out of worn out stuff! Not certain how long it lasted but...
Back in the Pleistocene, I owned a Ferguson TEA 20 kerosine model (motor based on the English Standard/Vanguard) I never had the luxury of a workshop, I did everything in the paddock including clutch replacement, rings and bearings and differential carrier bearings. I'd run a mile if faced with doing it again :-)
In the process of doing the z129 on my 52 ferguson right now... thanks for the video... what happened with mine was the head gasket blew and the fluid leaked into the cylinder and hydrolocked the valves and bent the pushrods... mines got a bit more of an "S" shape to the pushtod.
Ive restored several fergusons over the years. In definatley saving this one for future reference. The cracks are fairly common, but that ring gear is a first for me 😆. Thank you for this! I wish you were closer to the west coast, I would send you all kinds of business. CHEERS!
I used to have a car where getting the manifold off required two 9/16" ring spanners with the points offset - 1/24 of a turn, swap spanner, rinse, repeat. That was also the last time I saw a stud extractor in use! I used to work for a Gardner-Denver / Apex distributor.
I have a TE-20 1952 with the Standard Motor company wet sleeve engine that has never been rebuilt or even had the head off. It still starts and runs but is a bit sick these days so I think it's untouched status may be about to end. It spent most of its life at an air strip mowing grass and towing planes and parked indoors.
Shame about the block , I used a ring spacer 8 years ago on an in-place ring and bearing job on a Nissan patrol , brand new pistons but from memory we did it only to bring the top ring down more in the bore due to some damage at the top of the bore . I still see it driving around .
That piston ring re-groover is just one of many weird tools that came out over the last 100 years of IC engines. Another was in-vehicle crankshaft grinders. I think they were only for rod journals. We had such a machine in my high-school auto mechanic class. Even as a teen I was dubious of the value of the thing. No-one used it but it was there. Inventions with questionable necessity....like that piston ring-land tool. Funny, but neat to see what people were thinking as things evolved.
These engine blocks had problems with cracking without freezing, many were replaced already under warranty and we have a -47 Ferguson TE (Tractor England) 20 (these had the Continental engine 1946-48 in Europe) and it has had engine replaced under warranty back in 1948/49 to a Standard Motor Company engine. Here in Sweden, I have seen several tractors with this engine, where they mounted a large bolt straight through the block to hold it together. Don't know if it's done as a preventative measure or if it's done as a repair. However, at least it has worked, as all the ones I have seen with the bolt through the block have worked. If I remember correctly it was a stud with nuts on each side of the block and large washers. Thanks for all the interesting videos you post 😊!
Hi Guys, Greetings from New Zealand. I own an Oliver HG, the tags are still on her, she is 1943 vintage with a Hercules IX - 3 - according to the engine block stampings. I'm currently looking at getting her running as soon as I finish the work on my Bristol 25 - with the Perkins 3.152, 3 cylinder diesel motor, - she runs very well, but does have blow-by. Loving your channel. Yep I did see the video of the Hercules, and re-sleeving the 3 Cylinder Perkins.
Those ring groove spacers are still valuable. People use them in OEM pistons so they can use modern narrow steel rings. That old ring groove tool might have gone along with a piston knurling tool.
I actually used ring spacers that came in a ring set, Did not like them but the engine lived. Piston knurling,, about 45 years ago my father had that done for some pistons in an Allis Chalmers TL14D engine. He got 2 or 3 years from it but then it was stuffed. And fitted witha 4 cyl Perkins.
@@ldnwholesale8552 Well, such things were never made for long lasting repairs. It was to get things going temporarily on a budget. Get the engine going long enough to sell it.
Having been on the different sides of this, As a farmer it would be fixed as economical as possible, As a commercial shop owner it would be scrapped,, .As a collector of Antique tractors, I would have either brazed or epoxied with Devcon . It could be fixed by different methods, is it worth the cost of the repair, only the owner knows. Keep the videos coming, enjoy all of them. Since the old guy is about my age (70), has he ever used the ring test on push rods
On the crank, could you machine the key wider, then put a wider key in, and machine the key to fit the gear? It's all money at this point, but if a person wanted to pay the extra, would it work? Kind of like cutting and brazing the block, it's a bunch of money. Eventually blocks and cranks will not be available, so repairs are going to be needed, even if they are ugly.
Enjoyed watching the disassembly of the Z 129 engine. I have one at a shop to get line bored for cam bearing. Waiting to see if they can actually do it. The other big issue to day is finding bearings for these engines includind Z 120. Z129 and Z134. Ferguson expert says you can use center thrust bearing for Z134 in the Z129. Front thrust bearing may be extremely difficult to find. The valve caps are avaiable for xalve stems. Pay attention to the cam gear and crankshaft gear they may be oversized or undersized and should be marked.
The Ferguson-Brown Company was a British partnership between Harry Ferguson and David Brown. In 1953, they merged with the Canadian Massey-Harris. Their history is long and complicated. Pre merger Fergies had a Coventry Climax engine. This being an American engine is probably licence built shortly before the merger.
Great video, despite the decision not to continue forth. I really liked the floating oil pick up with reasoning for it, and seeing your piston ring cutter and sleeve puller. Great work team.
If I remember the floating oil pick up was to optimize the oil pick up in unlevel terrain. Getting back a lot of old memories from helping my uncle on his farm.
Those z129 blocks are known for cracking. They will crack from over heating. I even heard installing new sleeves have cracked a block. We couple with crack my cousin put boiler sealer in and seems to work. Uncle thinks sleeves fit a little too tight. He rebuilt one got it little to hot and had water in oil. The z127 and z145 don’t seem to have cracking problem.
I was reading that antifreeze was common used in 40s an 50s and used in all Tractors in the 60s . I read where they used kerosene , oil mix with the water. It would eat the hoses up. I can see the kerosene would eat the sleeves up to.
You can use hydraulic oil as a cooling medium instead of glycol, water or alcohol. This avoids all problems with galvanic currents. I know several people who drive their Ford and Nuffield tractors on this and these usually have problems with galvanic currents eating the blocks from the inside.
Most of the old tractors I have worked on (8Ns, Jubilees, 850 871,all of the Ford variety) as well as Allis Chalmers a and CA, the rotor points at the number 1 cylinder. You can easily make it work the way shown, but I believe pointing at one was the way they came from the factory.
You never met my great grandfather Stockton he was a boilermaker and steam pipe fitter . His stick arc welding was a thing of beauty every time . His heat bending pipe was amazing.
Make sure you look for crack between the sleeves. Notorious if they freeze slightly they will crack at the bottom between the sleeves and water into oil. Worked on these my whole life and that was weak point in the block. You are right they did have locking tabs. Many things weren't available back then in alot of areas and these types of tools were the savior to alot farmers.
Dad had a old forklift that had a 4-cylinder Continental engine in it. Low compression, always hard to start. Probably needed a complete engine rebuild. They are also used in just about every portable Lincoln welder out there. At least with the older ones.
In WV they could use drip gas from a gas well. As long as you mixed oil with it was ok but was Riskey, I ran one of these back in the early 1970's. It was a good little farm tractor. If you didn't mix a little oil with the gas it burned to hot and would trash the valves.
The comment about cross Bolts got me thinking. I believe way back when there was a couple of engines that people were doing this to and that one was one of them. Maybe one of the experts on these engines will comment and tell you how to spot face the sides and where and how many bolts to put in. If I recall correctly they were on either side of the center main. And between the cylinders
In Australia we have the British Fergy, earlier ones where built by British Ford, later ones were built by the Standard Motor Company, using mainly Vanguard engine parts.
Thanks Jim for the awesome history lesson, I've worked on a couple old ones but not that deep, what a great lesson. I hope you have a follow up video on the replacement.
Since Lincoln Tomb Stone welders were invented, farmers didn't need a weld shop to fix equipment. They read the welders handbook on proper welds and had instant success. Nothing as beautiful as a glob of weld when a tack would have held. Got to hand it to farmers though, many tried and succeeded.
I am from Norway. We had a 1947 Ferguson TA-20. When we sold the small farm we donated the tractor to a Ferguson entusiast to ensure it's future. I didn't want it to end up at the scrapper by the new property owner. It's not always about the sale value as a restoration isn't cheap and it will live on for several decades with TLC.
cracked block, my Dad grew up in the 20es and 30es, he spoke the practices of using water as the main coolant for various engine etc. He spoke of a freeze up in an engine that actually pushed section of metal out of the engine, Their cure was to dump salt into the opening and push the broken segment back into the opening . per his recollection this sealed the leak. The patch would also hold anti freeze , I can't prove anything, but my Dad was consistently truthful. Enjoy your TH-cams.
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It's a barb knot from old barbwire fence wire
Just as an FYI, your website expired.
You may be able to find parts at Fitts tractor in Cascade Virginia
I restored one those old tractors for a Family friend that pulled Parade Floats with it . Block was cracked identical to this one .
We acid dipped the block , installed the liners , assembled the engine . Then we poured low viscosity epoxy in the block and pressurized it into the cracks. That was 25 years ago .That tractor had 300 hrs on it when i saw it in 2023, when it was pulling the old gentleman's casket, in his funeral procession .
His son , said they used the tractor regularly on the farm , for light duty tasks , and never has leaked.
Epoxy will probably outlast the rest of the tractor.
Now that's an idea! Not necessarily worthy of any sort of warranty. Do you recall what low viscosity epoxy you used?
there used to be a shop in these parts that repaired old tractor engine blocks( worked fine on brothers super a)
@@billvandorn5332I can't speak for what the other guy used but there is a TH-cam channel called build it yourself where they used some epoxy to seal up water jackets on some heads they made that would probably be appropriate.
A ceramic sealer called irontite works wonders for similar situations. They used to use it a lot in Nascar on the heavily modified heads because they knew they were going to crack during the race and that was the only way to get them thru.
My father in law had a two cylinder John Deere M that he tended his garden with for years. He pulled a hay wagon at my wedding with the bridal party on it and it barely made it. He always said it was worn out and after some family restructuring, it ended up sitting in my back yard for 6-7 years. He finally decided to sell it and asked me to try to start it. After a new battery and a carb rebuild, it ran like it did before. I decided to pull the valve cover to check for oiling and adjust the valves. Something didn’t look right so I investigated further and found a bent push rod with considerable wear at the bend. I straightened it out, adjusted the lash and she fired up and ran like a champ. Poor thing limped on one cylinder for 15 years.
I am of the mind that the flywheel ring gear was repaired with everything together through the starter hole rather than going through all the effort of splitting the tractor. A true farm repair.
It is welded from opposite of the stator
Bush fix for the win!!
She was farmered once or twice 😂
It's welded so the starter doesn't push it out, so i'd suppose someone took the time to split it and then weld it like shit, which is maybe worse
You guys need to get the 3/8 Dewalt impact and ratchet!
Good to see how a lifetime’s worth of experience factors into the quality of work done by a mechanic. Your son is the lucky beneficiary of all of your hard work in more ways than one. Thanks for documenting this basic engine teardown and diagnosis.
That bolt in the water neck is actually stock! Mine had one until I installed a water temp gauge in 2000. Water temp gauge was an optional add for the Ferguson TO-30's. Even had to pop out the steel cut-out plate in the "dash" for the gauge. To a teenager at the time, giving my Ferggie an actual "optional" item nearly 50 years later was such a sense of accomplishment.
That makes sense. I was wondering why a hack solution bothered with filing a hex head bolt square. The truth is it's just a low quality pipe thread plug.
Thank you for this content. We are all aware that craftsmen like you are not easy to find nowadays. Your customers are lucky to have you!
It amazing to see a father and son who can work together like this and enjoy each other's company. I wasn't lucky enough to experience that, but I aim to create that with my children. It's very inspiring.
Good luck with that. it is rare indeed.
The "Wackie Weed" in the ditches is probably industrial grade hemp used to make rope. I grew up in North Central Indiana, and my grandfather grew it during the war years. It still can be seen popping up in corn fields.
electric watercress
You can still grow it legally now,it costs like 600dollars up for a license to grow industrial hemp,it has to have less than.3 percent of delta 9 THC but it can have all the delta 8 THC or THC A that it will produce and the THC A will convert to Delta 9 THC when heated ( burned) and they also make all the CBD products from it, basically legal dope thanks to the farm bill
The early antifreeze was alcohol. It slowly evaporated away with the heating cycles, so you had to add more alcohol as routine maintenance, especially in the winter.
The "permanent type antifreeze" , ethylene glycol ,was a vast improvement!
And alcohol would boil b4 water and boiling over was a problem
My father talked about draining the water from trucks in the late fall, then filling the rad with kerosene. It didn't overheat and never froze. Otherwise they had to let the big engines idle all winter. A lot of people in the late 50's didn't trust ethylene glycol and ran the alcohol all winter, then switched to water in the spring. There was a lot of rad flushing going on back then.
Not only are the details of what they are doing and the discussions of what they see exceptional, the chemistry between Jim and Nicholas is fun to watch. Jim is so humble, yet his knowledge and experience are amazing while Nicholas is shaping up to be just like Dad. I never imagined I'd find the teardown of a 1950s tractor engine so interesting.
I love a good engine autopsy. Especially a mystery engine that's been sitting. I hope you do more of these. It's was very enjoyable to watch. :)
As my grandpa used to like to say, "Poor People Have Poor Ways". That saying is proven true when this engine is being torn down. My brother in law who was a young farmer in the early 50's told how he sometimes wasn't sure if he had drained the water out of the tractor and after he was already in bed, he would have to get up and get dressed and go out and make sure. A couple times it saved him from disaster. I think alcohol was used early on but it was never ideal.
Alcohol would evaporate under heat...
and most tractors had very low or no pressure radiator caps...
so after a day's tractor work more alcohol would have to be tipped in to make up for the losses..
@@JohnSmith-pl2bkI didn't know whether he was referring to the alcohol, if it was for the farmer or the tractor. I vote for the farmer!
I can identify with you on that I used to work for plant hire company in my village here in the uk and my bosses dad had an old fordson major tractor and he used to drain the water off every night and fill it up twice the next morning in the winter to get it to start easier it happens all over the place back in the day👍
Do a search for "cross bolting a cracked ferguson block" (there is some videos on youtube showing it), cross bolting was a very common fix for these engines (some will say they were cracked when new).
With the construction of the block, it wouldn't be surprising if it was cracked out of the factory. Having a two piece cast block with a press fit wet sleeve is just begging for problems.
@@GGigabiteM the lower sleeve fit is most definitely not a press fit. The upper fit is. And it isn't a '2 piece ' cast block, the seam was in the pattern.
My Father fixed one like that, (late 90s) with heating the block over a grill, and V-Cut the cracks, and welded with nickel rod (stick welder) I honed the holes and put sleeves into it, and its still running today.
I have a TO-30 that was rebuilt before I got it. The block was cracked and it had bolts across the block from one side to the other to hold the cracks closed. It does not leak.
I purchased a 1953 f-500 in 1973 with the 239 ohv. No .010 bearings available or gaskets for the heads. Turned bearings 180 and reused head gaskets but did find rings with cylinders at .004 taper . Farmer here, hauled farm equipment from Spokane to Seattle and sold in 1979 with over 10k miles on the truck. Farmers make do with what’s is at hand. Like your videos 😊
It is impressive to see an engine from the 50s with more rust than oil leakage on the outside. Just a heads up from someone that has been working on rusty sht for many decades. When using an impact to remove rusty nuts and they get stuck in the socket. Keep the socket on the gun but press the side of the socket against a solid, heavy object. Hold your other hand under the socket and run the gun. Unless the nut is smashed into the socket it will shoot out into your hand.
You got to love those farmer repairs. I spent 15 years working in a Chrysler Plymouth Dodge dealer in a small farming community. Some of the vehicles that came in were cobbled up to the point that I had to repair the cobble job before I could diagnose the original problem.
What a pity that you're not able to complete this rebuild. That year, thereabouts, but the English version with the Standard Vanguard engine was the first vehicle I learned to drive as about a 14 year old in Northern Rhodesia. I was at boarding school and a school friend invited me back to his parent's farm near Lusaka for an extended weekend when I couldn't go home. One short lesson on what to do and what not, and I spent almost every waking hour driving the wheels off that tractor. What fun. Learned all sorts of bad habits that bit me in the butt when it came time to get my drivers licence a few years later.
Looking forward to the next rescue. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🕊🇺🇦🕊🇺🇲🦃💩👆
p.s. in Africa, I don't recall anything like antifreeze in our engines until I purchased my first new car, a Fiat 125, which was delivered with antifreeze in the engine. However, we seldom got to freezing, let alone below, and I never purchased antifreeze until I came to Canada in 1979.
Those crank shims are important. A friend of mine had a 259 Studebaker V8 "Professionally rebuilt" He put it back in the car and it would break a flex plate right quick! After a couple of times if changing that flex plate, he brought it to me. The only thing I knew to do was pull the engine and look it over. I discovered the crank had .200 - .250 end play! It turns out Studebaker had no thrust main bearing. You had to adjust the end play with shims, behind timing gear. Like this engine. Also there is also a hard metal piece that fits in there surface ground to precision, not just shims. He went back to the professional to recover the pieces, but he had already thrown them out! Be careful of some shops! You guys do a good job. Even the clean up guy!
Had a shop do my clutch that mechanical linkage: they put it together dry with no grease and threw out the weird washers they didn't understand. Went back for the missing parts and same. They said it was easy so the new guy did it.
I don't think its cracked from heat. Two reasons. It's just not that hot at the bottom, and, when coolant is low that's the last place it disappears from. Not saying it never got hot, but farmers have a bad habit of doing bad things in a pinch, like pouring water in and forgetting at the end of season that their coolant had been compromised. Here in Michigan wintertime is an unforgiving enemy of engine blocks.
I enjoy seeing the mechanical aspects of your videos but I cherish the interaction between father and son. May God bless y'all for many years to come.
One of your best videos yet. Love the discussion back and forth. Really provides tons of information and give excellent insight as to what you guys are thinking and looking for as you conduct a forensic tear down of the engine.
Thanks, Grandpa guy. I appreciate the looks into the past for the younger set. Things were done differently then. Money was tight. Parts weren't cheap. A lot of these tractors were re-ringed in chassis. Low compression, high clearances. Go to a heavier weight oil. Small farms with low prices for what you grew. My dad had a Farmall Super H overhauled and the guy talked him into high compression pistons for the gasoline tractor. The engine ran almost as well with the ignition switch turned off afterwards. We converted the tractor to Propane and it was fine.
Carbon ignition system.....one speck of glowing carbon in the cylinder is all it takes with gasoline/petrol
but propane is harder to ignite....and loves high compression....to compensate for lower calorific value of the fuel....
It's a pleasure to watch Jim. The wealth of knowledge from decades of experience. What too look for. Old tricks of the trade not taught today. The history of engines. These videos are so instructive and enjoyable to watch.
Furnace brazing and enough time can fix almost anything, that block can be furnace brazed and have the crack fixed. ALSO if you put in new sleeves you can use epoxy on the bottom of block, like hardblock just epoxy instead. That will basically grout the sleeves in and seal it up. I have had to do this with rare euro stuff that's simply no supply.
Hardblock the bottp 1/2 " of the water jacket with new sleeves will probably fix it forever,, mind you you will never get those sleeves out again.
@@ldnwholesale8552well you could if you used the dry liner removal method of boring them out.
Doing that probably would do the job, but basically it's a bodge job. I seriously doubt that Jim would do such a thing as it's his reputation at stake and a matter of his guarantee.
Bear in mind you can buy that whole tractor in running condition for < $1000
Thanks for an excellent video that was informative and interesting and enjoyable.
I am new to your channel and this video is one of several of yours I have watched recently.
I am an 80 year old car enthusiast and the machine shop work was always my passion. In my younger years I went through a fair share of hot rods, so to speak, and what makes an engine tick. So I thought your channel would be most interesting and help me relive those hot rod engine days.
The old ford tractor engine you have taken apart in this video is most definitely interesting. Appreciate your voice over as to what you both see in the parts for wear and tear and the history behind them. Looking forward to your channel and reassembling this engine step by step.
Thanks for everything. You both take care and be safe.
The retired Air Force veteran.
Shame that is such a common problem on those old Ferguson tractors. Problem is that so many of them cracked blocks over the years. My dad had one that the block cracked on it and it was only about 10 years old when that happened. Being it was NW PA, you never run just water in them. So it cracked with coolant vs being straight water.
We'll see what happens but that would probably be the end of the road for that Ferguson for most folks.
Hi boys, have you ever made a video on the history of Jim, how it all came to be, from cleaning guy to a successful engine builder. Would make a terrific video, regards Jim
The family stories and banter is excellent.
I used to smell things. One day I found concentrated ammonia and took a whiff.
I bought a steam cleaner a few years ago and loved it. I started cleaning EVERYTHING. One day I found an area of old cat pee...
Never made that mistake again...
I did the same thing with boiling ammonia in 8th grade. Over the years my smell has started to come back but it's still not what it should be
Lol been there
I found an old bottle in the basement ceiling of a old farmhouse. It was blue glass and had a picture of a horse on it. Can't remember what was written on it. I pulled the cork and took a whiff and my vision turned blue with purplish spots for a second. Good stuff!
@@Raise986 have you tried deodorant?
Wow! I am 66 years young and learn something new every episode! Great channel.
Greetings from Germany: Always interesting to watch how to tear it down and see what's inside then the fixes and machining process. I rebuilt my VW air cooled engine that had sucked a valve. I followed the mail order book pretty much to the 'T' except for the crank line bore... I was trying to save money but at the end I sold the old bus before the leak got too bad for a reasonable price. (I did inform the buyer of the slight leak at the rear main.) After watching your TH-cam channel now for a while along with some others, I realized that there were a few steps I missed and or was not aware of. If I were to do it again, I would do my best to do it better. 😉
Like some of your viewers comment on agree. Experience over time is the best teacher. Keep up the Good work and looking forward to your next job.
the machine shop i worked in in the 70's-90's we had that Perfect Circle Manulathe, all the different sizes of spacer. also had a piston knurlier and used a Van Norman Rotary Broach, mid 80's got Winona Van Norman seat and guide machine and Neway seat cutters, before that used a Sioux seat cutter for replacement seats and Sioux seat grinder and valve reface machine. really enjoyed working and running that shop.
I love watching you guys mostly because you're not a high volume machine shop and you don't mind taking on these old Motors. It's fun as hell to watch you tackle this old equipment
That Gerber Life ad took me for a loop, I thought that company didn't exist anymore😂
Some of my earliest memories were of seeing their TV ads
"You can start a Gerber Life plan for just Pennies a day!"😂😂
I think you should make a "make it work" video. Make a spreder that opens up the cracks and cleen them well and put red high temp silicon in them, then bore a through hole in the middle of the crack and through bolt to hold it thight, then make a bigger to smaller key in the crank. I know about Toyota picup that drived for many years with crack in the head that had a filled up crack with red silicon that was put in the crack with rubber hammer. It never gave up. The red silicon can stand over 600°c
If tractor engines could talk they could tell you some stories ! Early "rebuilds" were so common. I've done my share but only if wear was minimal. Parts and kits are now very affordable to the restorers for old iron. I just did a IH F12 and F 20 Farmall engine. Amazing how easy and simple they are.
Absolutely LOVE the interactions between you two! I've rebuilt several engines over the years, but your work is extremely impressive! You have saved many engines from the scrap pile! Keep up the good work. You are doing a great job of teaching a new generation of rebuilders, with these videos...!
LOL! Look up the song Wildwood Weed by Jim Stafford, from the 70s...
I love your show,I was bought up on old tractors,worked for tractor companies in the 70,s ,we must remember those blocks were part of the chassis, if the machine took a thump on the front axle,,,who knows where the forces went,,just a thought from an old timer who used to own one.Cheers,your son is so fortunate to have your vast knowledge to draw on.
I had a Ford tractor come in for repair about 25 years ago that was leaking coolant internally from a crack in the block. I drained the coolant, pulled the front half of the tractor off for better access and to get the radiator out of the way. Then I flushed and cleaned the block several times. After that I bypassed the radiator and ran it with straight water until I got the engine good and hot. Then I drained the water, pulled the thermostat, and poured a bottle of liquid glass into it. I do not remember if I had to add water with it or not but I pressurized the system with 5psi of air for 15 minutes then I let it set with no pressure on it for about an hour before I drained everything out. Once I had everything drained out I let it set overnight and reassembled everything the next day. I ran it around the farm bush hogging all week and never lost any coolant. So I told the customer to run it and keep an eye on it. I figured it would at least get him through hay season and we could fix it right later. I heard last year that they never did anything else to it and they are still using it regularly.
I've dealt with several Ferguson Continental engines and the cracks at the bottom cylinder bore seem to be common, I also believe like you that this is the result of freezing. My own TO-30 had this problem and the machine shop used what they called racers epoxy in the bottom of thr coolant jacket. I have between 400-500 hours on that engine now with no overheating or coolant leaks. Enjoy your videos, keep them coming.
You two guys are entertaining but most of all very informative and true professionals. I truly wish I had a machine shop of your caliber near me. Thanks for a great video machine head dude's
It's nice to watch the two of you work together, as my father and I did in the late 60s and through the 70s! It's also refreshing to see the PROPER tip being used on the torch for heating... drives me crazy to see cutting tips being used where a rosebud is called for! LOL!
Have you guys ever used locknstitch? Its a way to repair cast iron amd aliminum. Jay leno has used it several times to repair really old destroyed engines. Lock n stitch. You can fix that block. Its repairable.
He talked about it. This isn't a good candidate for it because of where the crack is. Water jacket cracks are better fixed with those.
These engines were built to be stationary power sources, Ferguson and other tractor manufacturers adapted them to the tractors and used the block as part of the chassis. I think the strain of driving on rough terrain resulted in flexing and cracking the block. Continental later refused to sell parts for any engine used for tractor application.
i think they were used in standard vangaurd cars also in triumph tr 2 sports car
I have a Massey to35 myself. I love the little tractor. I bought it used in rough shape. It actually has green paint on it under the gray paint. Was told by Yesterday Tractor that it could have been a military unit.
Truly enjoyed the tear down video, very informative. Keep up the good work.
I have a ‘53. It’s doing a great job holding the floor down. Went through the head and replaced a valve and very slightly bent pushrod. The engine ran perfect for 30 minutes then oil fouled every plug and puked out of the rear seal.
I enjoy these videos. Not a fan of BEING an engine mechanic, but can sit and watch others work on engines.
I knew a guy about 40 years ago to that rebuilt engines . A guy he knew brought his car in because the soft plugs blew out or worse .it was 40 years ago and I dont recall if he cracked the block . It had straight wster in it. He asked why he only had water in his car snd he was told " It's from the spring behind my house and it never freezes" . The mechanic wasnt a BSer and I know people that would probably do the same
I mean the cleaning guy had kind of a ring to it, the cleaning Grandpa that sounds more dignified, but I'm going to miss the cleaning guy because well cleaning guy just had such an authority. Can't stay a cleaning guy forever I guess, I really appreciate your guys's videos I've learned quite a bit from you. I apply it to all the classic cars I work on will every car even the brand new ones. It's rare to find a channel like you guys. This is why I'm thankful for your channel and the education that you have provided me, for free
Love the ad "wouldn't that be nice". Cleaning grandpa stood his ground
we were poor farmers in southern Minnesota and my dad always had a long sheep skin overcoat that was put on the radiator of our H Farmall and we had water and drained it at the end of the day, we did not have extra money to purchase anti-freeze, so in the day as our country was coming out of WWII, we got by with much less.
I had an old FarmAll and it also had water in the crank but most came from sitting with the exhaust broke off and water filling up the cylinders.
Amazingly it all worked out.
Racers use engine block fillers to strengthen their blocks. Since the crack is at the bottom of the bore where there is less heat, after installing new sleeves, wouldn't it be possible to fill the bottom couple inches of the block with that compound to eliminate the leak? Coolant circulation at the bottom of a cylinder is not that critical.
I used to wrap black electrical tape around the puller block so it would clear the cylinder block which always worked for me
The wet sleeves get cavitation from aeration in the coolant due to improper coolant maintenance
Which is very common in wet sleeves engines
(The aeration bubbles stick to the cylinder liner and as the compression in the cylinder on the power stroke causes the liner to expand and contract the aeration bubbles implode causing cavitation of the cylinder liner )
I live in a rural area in far north Queensland Australia, we moved here 17 years ago from Sydney, Australia's largest city. I spent my life in production machining until we moved up here. I started working up here in a small machine shop doing jobbing work mainly on farming equipment. Your comment regarding farmer welding reminded me of a comment my boss made, he a German toolmaker said " most farmers up here should work for NASA" I asked why, he said " only a farmer can weld aluminium to cast iron then weld that to steel with rods out in a feild and make it work". The reason they can do that? Because no one has told them they can't!🤔
Great tear down boys with good commentary and analysis. I am continually amazed by frieze damage to engines, living in the sunshine of Queensland, Australia I am not familiar with it even though I run anti freeze fluids in all my engines to save on electrolysis. Can’t wait to see what the customer decides to do going forward, buy another block and youll need to be sure it’s not suffering the same or similar conditions. I think the short block would be the ideal way out. Thank you for posting
Those bolts that come from the inside on the rear main are a joy. Man there were a ton of working words when I realized I had to pull the pan to get that retainer out.
Oh Yeah, knurling pistons and guides, cutting O/S ring grooves, honing for O/S wrist pins. We did a lot to squeeze additional life out of worn out stuff! Not certain how long it lasted but...
You nailed the regroover. Been there and done that. Spot on. We did this in a barn and the parts were not available to the farm.
Back in the Pleistocene, I owned a Ferguson TEA 20 kerosine model (motor based on the English Standard/Vanguard) I never had the luxury of a workshop, I did everything in the paddock including clutch replacement, rings and bearings and differential carrier bearings. I'd run a mile if faced with doing it again :-)
In the process of doing the z129 on my 52 ferguson right now... thanks for the video... what happened with mine was the head gasket blew and the fluid leaked into the cylinder and hydrolocked the valves and bent the pushrods... mines got a bit more of an "S" shape to the pushtod.
Love your guys videos and energy :) 😂 shame about the cracks as I wanted to see that block come out of the washer all shiny looking new!
Ive restored several fergusons over the years. In definatley saving this one for future reference.
The cracks are fairly common, but that ring gear is a first for me 😆.
Thank you for this! I wish you were closer to the west coast, I would send you all kinds of business. CHEERS!
I used to have a car where getting the manifold off required two 9/16" ring spanners with the points offset - 1/24 of a turn, swap spanner, rinse, repeat. That was also the last time I saw a stud extractor in use! I used to work for a Gardner-Denver / Apex distributor.
I have a TE-20 1952 with the Standard Motor company wet sleeve engine that has never been rebuilt or even had the head off. It still starts and runs but is a bit sick these days so I think it's untouched status may be about to end. It spent most of its life at an air strip mowing grass and towing planes and parked indoors.
Shame about the block , I used a ring spacer 8 years ago on an in-place ring and bearing job on a Nissan patrol , brand new pistons but from memory we did it only to bring the top ring down more in the bore due to some damage at the top of the bore . I still see it driving around .
I had a TO-20. Loved that tractor!!
That piston ring re-groover is just one of many weird tools that came out over the last 100 years of IC engines. Another was in-vehicle crankshaft grinders. I think they were only for rod journals. We had such a machine in my high-school auto mechanic class. Even as a teen I was dubious of the value of the thing. No-one used it but it was there. Inventions with questionable necessity....like that piston ring-land tool. Funny, but neat to see what people were thinking as things evolved.
These engine blocks had problems with cracking without freezing, many were replaced already under warranty and we have a -47 Ferguson TE (Tractor England) 20 (these had the Continental engine 1946-48 in Europe) and it has had engine replaced under warranty back in 1948/49 to a Standard Motor Company engine. Here in Sweden, I have seen several tractors with this engine, where they mounted a large bolt straight through the block to hold it together. Don't know if it's done as a preventative measure or if it's done as a repair. However, at least it has worked, as all the ones I have seen with the bolt through the block have worked. If I remember correctly it was a stud with nuts on each side of the block and large washers. Thanks for all the interesting videos you post 😊!
Hi Guys, Greetings from New Zealand. I own an Oliver HG, the tags are still on her, she is 1943 vintage with a Hercules IX - 3 - according to the engine block stampings. I'm currently looking at getting her running as soon as I finish the work on my Bristol 25 - with the Perkins 3.152, 3 cylinder diesel motor, - she runs very well, but does have blow-by. Loving your channel. Yep I did see the video of the Hercules, and re-sleeving the 3 Cylinder Perkins.
Those ring groove spacers are still valuable. People use them in OEM pistons so they can use modern narrow steel rings.
That old ring groove tool might have gone along with a piston knurling tool.
I actually used ring spacers that came in a ring set, Did not like them but the engine lived. Piston knurling,, about 45 years ago my father had that done for some pistons in an Allis Chalmers TL14D engine. He got 2 or 3 years from it but then it was stuffed. And fitted witha 4 cyl Perkins.
@@ldnwholesale8552 Well, such things were never made for long lasting repairs. It was to get things going temporarily on a budget. Get the engine going long enough to sell it.
Having been on the different sides of this, As a farmer it would be fixed as economical as possible, As a commercial shop owner it would be scrapped,, .As a collector of Antique tractors, I would have either brazed or epoxied with Devcon . It could be fixed by different methods, is it worth the cost of the repair, only the owner knows. Keep the videos coming, enjoy all of them. Since the old guy is about my age (70), has he ever used the ring test on push rods
I like this format when you just work on an engine with minimal cuts, discussing things as you go.
On the crank, could you machine the key wider, then put a wider key in, and machine the key to fit the gear? It's all money at this point, but if a person wanted to pay the extra, would it work? Kind of like cutting and brazing the block, it's a bunch of money. Eventually blocks and cranks will not be available, so repairs are going to be needed, even if they are ugly.
I've never seen one of those cylinder head stud pullers for an impact gun. I'm going to need to find myself one of those.
Me too!!
Enjoyed watching the disassembly of the Z 129 engine. I have one at a shop to get line bored for cam bearing. Waiting to see if they can actually do it. The other big issue to day is finding bearings for these engines includind Z 120. Z129 and Z134. Ferguson expert says you can use center thrust bearing for Z134 in the Z129. Front thrust bearing may be extremely difficult to find. The valve caps are avaiable for xalve stems. Pay attention to the cam gear and crankshaft gear they may be oversized or undersized and should be marked.
The Ferguson-Brown Company was a British partnership between Harry Ferguson and David Brown. In 1953, they merged with the Canadian Massey-Harris. Their history is long and complicated.
Pre merger Fergies had a Coventry Climax engine. This being an American engine is probably licence built shortly before the merger.
Great video, despite the decision not to continue forth. I really liked the floating oil pick up with reasoning for it, and seeing your piston ring cutter and sleeve puller.
Great work team.
If I remember the floating oil pick up was to optimize the oil pick up in unlevel terrain. Getting back a lot of old memories from helping my uncle on his farm.
I personally love seeing the old stuff torn down. I learn so much about the old ways of doing stuff.
Those z129 blocks are known for cracking. They will crack from over heating. I even heard installing new sleeves have cracked a block. We couple with crack my cousin put boiler sealer in and seems to work. Uncle thinks sleeves fit a little too tight. He rebuilt one got it little to hot and had water in oil. The z127 and z145 don’t seem to have cracking problem.
I was reading that antifreeze was common used in 40s an 50s and used in all Tractors in the 60s . I read where they used kerosene , oil mix with the water. It would eat the hoses up. I can see the kerosene would eat the sleeves up to.
You can use hydraulic oil as a cooling medium instead of glycol, water or alcohol. This avoids all problems with galvanic currents. I know several people who drive their Ford and Nuffield tractors on this and these usually have problems with galvanic currents eating the blocks from the inside.
Like, I said. The cleaning grand pa, is the soul of this channel.
Most of the old tractors I have worked on (8Ns, Jubilees, 850 871,all of the Ford variety) as well as Allis Chalmers a and CA, the rotor points at the number 1 cylinder. You can easily make it work the way shown, but I believe pointing at one was the way they came from the factory.
Thank you for showing us how to do engine archeology-very helpful!
You never met my great grandfather Stockton he was a boilermaker and steam pipe fitter . His stick arc welding was a thing of beauty every time . His heat bending pipe was amazing.
Make sure you look for crack between the sleeves. Notorious if they freeze slightly they will crack at the bottom between the sleeves and water into oil. Worked on these my whole life and that was weak point in the block. You are right they did have locking tabs. Many things weren't available back then in alot of areas and these types of tools were the savior to alot farmers.
Dad had a old forklift that had a 4-cylinder Continental engine in it. Low compression, always hard to start. Probably needed a complete engine rebuild. They are also used in just about every portable Lincoln welder out there. At least with the older ones.
Williams cylinder head in Nevada Iowa specialize in welding cast iron . They are now part of Arnold's Motor Supply.
In WV they could use drip gas from a gas well. As long as you mixed oil with it was ok but was Riskey, I ran one of these back in the early 1970's. It was a good little farm tractor. If you didn't mix a little oil with the gas it burned to hot and would trash the valves.
Absolutely brilliant to watch, your dad's knowledge is amazing
The comment about cross Bolts got me thinking. I believe way back when there was a couple of engines that people were doing this to and that one was one of them. Maybe one of the experts on these engines will comment and tell you how to spot face the sides and where and how many bolts to put in. If I recall correctly they were on either side of the center main. And between the cylinders
In Australia we have the British Fergy, earlier ones where built by British Ford, later ones were built by the Standard Motor Company, using mainly Vanguard engine parts.
Thanks Jim for the awesome history lesson, I've worked on a couple old ones but not that deep, what a great lesson. I hope you have a follow up video on the replacement.
Since Lincoln Tomb Stone welders were invented, farmers didn't need a weld shop to fix equipment. They read the welders handbook on proper welds and had instant success. Nothing as beautiful as a glob of weld when a tack would have held. Got to hand it to farmers though, many tried and succeeded.
I am from Norway. We had a 1947 Ferguson TA-20. When we sold the small farm we donated the tractor to a Ferguson entusiast to ensure it's future.
I didn't want it to end up at the scrapper by the new property owner.
It's not always about the sale value as a restoration isn't cheap and it will live on for several decades with TLC.
cracked block, my Dad grew up in the 20es and 30es, he spoke the practices of using water as the main coolant for various engine etc. He spoke of a freeze up in an engine that actually pushed section of metal out of the engine, Their cure was to dump salt into the opening and push the broken segment back into the opening . per his recollection this sealed the leak. The patch would also hold anti freeze , I can't prove anything, but my Dad was consistently truthful. Enjoy your TH-cams.