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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2024
- Making up a disconnect panel for the pneumatic supply. Our #1 fan Nico rejected my first version!
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This is the four relay board I used:
amzn.to/3t4qkgg
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00:00 - Intro
00:25 - Mounting an additional relay board.
01:15 - Nameplate cleaning
01:48 - Designing and printing the mount
03:21 - Mail time
03:44 - Pneumatic disconnect panel
05:59 - Visit from #1 fan Nico
06:51 - Machining the disconnect plates
18:11 - Installing the disconnect plate - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
19:56 thanks for showing us the unplugged 3 phase plug so we didn't all have to quiver in fear as you cut through the cable!
I figured that would save me some strife. :)
this is one of those episodes that exceeds expectations.
Thanks Anton.
I like the aluminium plate. He was right. ☺
Btw, When relays contacts on and off, creates EMI because of arcs between contacts. If I were you I avoid the choice of putting the relay board to the top of microcontroller board. I mean it is the last place you want to put a noise creater.
Good point. So far I am only using one relay, and it will only be switched at start and shut down. If I get any glitches, I will have to move it.
good news is, that if this is an issue it can be solved with an "RC snubber" (search for shelly rc snubber for an example).
the physical placement of a relay does not really matter, it only needs to be in the same circuit (ie 24dc supply) as the digital device to cause problems,
if it's going to cause problem.
For example ,we recieved an inspection tool that used an air powered vortex cooler for the control cabinet , every time the cooler solinoid switched off
the control would glitch and the tool would fault.
After installing the appropriately sized RC snubber the problem went away.
Any machine tool that i ever worked on had 3-phase rc snubbers on all of the Magnetic contactors as well, a thing to keep in mind.
P.S. vortex coolers are hidiously loud
@@steveggca Thanks for that. That might already be an issue on this build.
Cut those bristles down to perhaps 1/3 of the length so they are stiff enough for the task! Then don't stop until you've actually finished it. Some IPA should do the trick.
Good thing Nico didn't spot the gland adaptor!
Remember I still have about 80 more episodes to go, so I dont want to be too fast with that name plate cleaning.
100% agree with #1 fan. I had to put some connectors in a 19" rack for some audio equipment... Ended up putting it in our 5 axis mill to drill the holes perfectly. :D And the end result is so good, all connectors evenly spaced, everything perfectly parallel to each other.
That sounds awesome.
I wonder if the last episode will be the one where you finally drill out these 4 damned rivets and throw the thing in an ultrasonic cleaner... or maybe second to last, last is probably cnc'ing a new one ^^
:)
Good cal!
or just leave it dirty to spite some viewers... =D
That nameplate is actually looking pretty good. Maybe try one of those overnight tooth whitening systems on it?
You could make a rectangular block with a fill and a drain hole, put a gasket on either side of it and sandwich it between a small ultrasonic cleaner and the lathe. That way you could give it the buzz buzz buzz right in place.
@@jimsvideos7201 Not the most practical suggestion so far :)
Good job with the 3D printed parts, but I need to thank Nico for the unexpected CNC soft porn 🙂 I missed the nameplate cleaning ritual - you are now doing it with a power tool 🙂
Hi Jose,
I will convey your thanks to him :)
@@RotarySMP LOL, thanks 🙂
The side note about how to confuse google's alg was pure gold. I know you were making a cheeky joke, as will the rest of the human watchers. Love the content. You've taught me a ton.
Thanks for the kind feedback Matthew.
Nico’s not wrong! Great video.
Thanks Julian, glad you enjoyed it.
Good to see the Maho in action again yeah the aluminum parts are way better 😃😃
Yeah, I think so as well.
Indeed, Nico was right. It looks much better. He knows what he's talking about :)
Dont tell him, please. :)
“It even has a warning label on it.” 😂
Hi Mark, I thought people would like that.
Mark
Looking good nice to see the Maho earning its keep 😀
It is a nice machine. It will be nice to have all the wiring and configuration work finished so I can make mechanical stuff again.
Thanks niko for saving the project!
He will be happy.
Hello Mark,
Always nice to see some Maho Magic and Boley action.
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks Paul. Just editing tomorrows video. Even more Schaublin, Maho, Boley and DoAll action :)
Niko was right 👍 Wonderful job as usual!
Yes! Thank you!
chatter while parting, check headstock bearing preload, my monarch did that when the bearings wore out
That is a plain bearing machine. I rescraped the front bearing in a few years ago. It could well need adjustment.
"It's even got a big warning label" 😂😂👍👍
I thought that might go down well.
all thumbs still on the hand ... good project
Great checklist you have there.
I like how the vice warning label is carefully engraved so you wouldn't be tempted to rip it off and throw it in the bin, (the label that is).
Yep, if I even get a surface grinder, that label is getting removed.
Chips! Nice to see the Maho breezing through some stock. 👍
Thanks. It was nice to use it again as a break from wiring, and configuration setup.
We have this stuff called "Gum Cutter" in United States for cleaning that I use on our old machines that nobody has bothered to clean in the past 25 years. I'm not sure if they sell it in civilized countries. But if they do! I GUARANTEE it'll take the gunge off that Schaublin letter plate!
Good to know. It cant go too fast, as I have another 80 episodes or so before I finish it. :)
Thanks Nico for QA! Machined parts are better with regard to oil and grease, not only for looks. That said, something is not right with your 3D printer, its setup or the profile. The extrusion appears to be uneven and the surface could be better, but from a distance it is tough to guess what exactly needs checking.
I did a bunch more parts for a different job. Once I clicked "retract on layer" it pretty much cleared up that stringing. Reducing layer height to 0.2 and it did some of the best prints I ever did.
It is old enough that the belts probably need retensioning.
There is something really satisfying about having a very square and tight tapped thread. I'm working on a project (homemade sheet metal brake) where I did a bit of threading and I can't explain how satisfying it was to have the threading done... it didn't require machining but I'm not doing production runs, I'm just doing it as a hobby... I'm a software developer for my day job. So I machined the holes and drilled them on the mill. Now I have to do some welding on the next operation and I'm dragging my feet because it's something new for me... but hey ho... I'm not on a dead line so I can do it at my leisure. Happy Sunday!
For bigger holes I use the Tapmatic in the mill. That does a great job.
Mission accomplished, posted a link in a machinists group. 👍
Awesome thank you!
At our workshop we have some magnetic holders for taps, the work with both machine and hand taps
Nice.
Good to see you haven't given up on cleaning that label !
SLS's glory days will be short I feel. It is so outdated. It's like arriving at the EV meet in a V8 deisel.
That is a good description. I hate to think what that has cost.
Nice machine, thanks for sharing your entertaining video, happy christmas
Thanks, you too!
Good job friend ,it is realy, great job
Thanks for the kind feedback.
You have to choose your battles. Yes the machined part may be stronger but I suspect that part would have been fine in plastic. I did enjoy watching you make it. 😀
I tried to argue that with Nico my Quality control guy, but his argument for content won out.
very good video rotay SMP
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Mike from mo., hey bud,,you are a good man,,,ida used the plastic one just to stur things up 😆 keep up the good job,,mike t.
Thanks for the vote on the printer Mike.
Nico has a point there, you're not modernizing an ugly lathe ....are you? 😁
Cheers
Yeah, true.
Those small machine vices are really accurate Arc euro trade sell them in the Uk in various sizes at very good prices. I use mine in my large milling vice to hold small parts you get no jaw lift and they repeat spot on each time and there are even tapped holes in the fixed jaw to mount stops.
That is what I picked up from watching Stefan Gotteswinters channel. Plus putting them in a normal mill vice is an easy way to set angles.
Im no 3d printing expert all though I currently own 5 of them, but to me it looks like you need to adjust the extrusion rate as your parts look a little under extruded. I see this especially in the standoff tops where there is concentric rings of non touching plastic. Great video I have shared this channel with several of my buddies!
by fixing this you will get stronger parts that are also more homogenous looking
Thanks for that feedback. Which setting in Cura should I tweak, and roughly how much? (10% more? 3% more?)
@@RotarySMP This is usually rectified on the printer itself, If you tell me the printer name/brand I can try and see the exact method but it will be called something along the lines of e-steps so your printer extrudes exactly a known amount of filament. during this process you will have the hot end set at operating temp and mark a line on the filament from a know fixed point say 100mm, and then tell the printer to advance the filament 100mm. doing this you get to see the error and there is some math you do which relates to the steps the stepper does the amount it actually traveled and then the amount you want it to travel. you enter the correct value and then that would make it extrude the proper amount. now this may not be a extruder problem but a filament problem as well but I found recalibrating my extruder to fix most of my issues. let me know if you need any more assistance.
@@mrpanda876 This is a home made Mendel90 development remixed by a mate of mine. I will ask him which setting I need to modify. Thanks.
@@RotarySMP Glad I could help, hopefully some solution will come up and your prints will be a little more stuck together. I had quite the hard time figuring out why my prints were pretty poor quality and not sticking well to the bed but adjusting the extruder solved most of my issues. Good luck!
I'm a big fan of 3d printing parts and your relay board mount looks great. I agree with Nico however that the machined plates look better for the air supply but worry your adapter for the power cable could fail with any accidental load applied to the cable gland. Great video thanks. Definitely deserve more views 👍
Thanks Andy, That is what I felt about the gland adapter as well.
@@RotarySMP There ar M24 Cable glans available, but the thread pitch for them is 1,5mm. Maybe just use an M24 Bold and add a thrue hole or the M20 gland ?
@@juergenschimmer960 This is fine. The gland is plastic anyway, and it is only a guide. I will leave it like this.
I'm not going to lie, 3D printing is good an all but I really enjoyed seeing the Maho doing its thing again, I miss it. I almost wanted to chide you for not facing the Aluminium (sorry Susan, that's the correct spelling) before planting it in the Maho on the chuck :)
Yes, the SLS launch was spectacular. I really wish I went down there to see it in person. Because Susan REALLY hates me I can't post a link but search for this here on TH-cam "Artemis 1 launch from 3 miles away" and if you have a big stereo speaker system connected to your computer like I do then enjoy, otherwise toss some headphones on.
I didn't need to face that slug of Aluminium, as I had faced the other end a while ago, and used it with abrasives to grind glass. I should have been much more careful to tap it true after sawing it.
@@RotarySMPNo worries. Enjoyable start to Sunday morning.
@@vincei4252 Glad you liked it. thanks for your support.
Looks great. You could colour code the black and blue fittings or their little release rings. I didn't know pneumatic tube came in paired/fig 8 but makes sense for cylinders etc.
Yep, I will use black for oiled air, and blue for the rest.
You could have saved a bit of wiring (probably) by running the relays from the expansion connector of the 7i92.
(Assuming the relay board has protection and flyback diodes)
True, but it was easier to just wire into the screw connectors of the 7i84, at least it seemed that way.
Niko with the roast
Yep. :)
6:40 "That's a 2-hour job." For me, this raises a general question. For a simple one-off part, is it generally faster to do it on a manual machine or on a CNC machine. Assume that we're starting with a dimensioned sketch in both cases, and that the operator is skilled at both CNC and manual operations. This might be a topic for a video!
True. I could have probably made this faster with a step drill in a drill press, in 6mm plate, cut out with the band saw then cleaning up in the lathe. But where is the fun in that :)
@@RotarySMP I agree that in the home hobby shop the fun factor definitely trumps efficiency. Otherwise, why would anyone even think of converting a Chinese minilathe to CNC 🙂
@@briantaylor9266 Yeah, that would be crazy :)
Love that music. Q M
Glad you enjoy it. Thanks for the feedback.
I think you should have cast it out of iron in your back yard :)
Ouch, I also thought that :)
A bit of an abrupt end. I thought you would show us the fruit of your labour for more than a few tenth of a second.
But I hope we will see more of it when you assemble the pneumatic system.
Sorry about that. The plate is hidden at the back, and I already tested the systems.
Whats the trick to getting a smooth finish on an intermittent facing cut on the lathe? I'm super impressed with the way it came out. Love the series so far.
Those are high positive rake polished inserts for aluminium.
Nice to see it coming along! Lacking a printer I'd have had to make those parts subtractively, but would I have used aluminium or delrin? Hm. Hey you want a nice piece of 54 mm delrin? I've got *lots.*
Thanks for the offer Jim. Please send me an Email (The addess is on the about tab of the channel.)
"Warning label." 🤣 Next project: chuck adaptor plate for the Maho. Tip: If you are going to have a machine sit for a while, try to drain as much of the coolant as possible to avoid having it going rancid in the tank. You can essentially move the coolant from machine to machine, no waste. So, how long start to finish on the mounting plate parts?
Good idea. The coolant in the Maho is probably about 20 years old. I put in a bucket of water and let it run for a while before I started this job, and it still doesnt stink. :)
@@RotarySMP 😜 That's sin #1, never plain water into coolant, a fresh coolant mix to top off would have been better.
@@MRCNC1967 I figure this coolant is so old and dead, it is beyond caring :)
Love your video work mate.
But.... Geepers! round work in the bandsaw, If it rolls pinky's might become red. allways clamp the work to something to stop it rolling and dragging you into the blade.
I figured I was nearly through and only needed light pressure for that last little bit. You are right, I should have just repositioned the vise.
3:37 this is the type of thing I come to this channel for lmao
5:28 NO DON'T DO THAT AGAIN PLEASE
:)
Not sure what I did wrong on the air filter?
@@RotarySMP Holding your finger on a leak is a big no. If it were to crack open from you messing around with it, it could send air into your bloodstream and if that happens, it's gonna be something between thrombosis and brain death
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 Thanks for that.
Thinking back to 1989, we did a pneumatics module in my apprenticeship, and now you say it, I think I was taught that.
I was shocked SLS actually launched too. It's an amazing rocket but its time NASA spent its limited budget on what they do best (in my opinion) and just make the lander/orbiter and just use SpaceX to get there
I wonder whether Elons attention to Twitter is the best thing for SpaceX staff?
I wonder whether SLS will actually do it's manned launch. Given the number of defects identified in the start attempts, it would not suprise me if the data from this test flight indicates that changes are necessary.
Hello Mate! Fantastic content! I have a question as this maybe was mentioned somewhere in your videos, is it not better to convert this lathe in to a linear rail Z axis like a modern cnc ? Do you think this will add more precise motion ? Best regards ! And I’m waiting for more!
Linear rails are lower friction and therefore can allow much more dynamic motion easily (higher acel, rapids and jerk) but that is not very relevant for a lathe. For higher precision, you cant beat the huge bearing surfaces of a box way machine like this one. Much more rigid.
@@RotarySMP thank you for your reply! I work 12 years now on a industrial 5 axis machines but it’s always something new to learn from the Yt channel like yours! Thanks 😊 and I can’t wait for more updates!
Which coolant are you using? I do wonder if I should by some synergy.. It's a see through coolant for general purpose machining.
The quantity a bit much but maybe I find people who also want it..
I have no idea what it originally was. It was already in the machine when I got it, and I have been topping it up with a soluble oil from the local tool shop.
I am not familiar with tongling brand relays, but that looks like one of those dodgy amazon/ebay/aliexpress/banggood relay boards. Be weary of the longevity of said products.
Omron G5LE's are the superior relay option for a similar price point IMO
Thanks for the tip. If it dies, I'll do better next time.
i hate 3d printing maybe even more than my job at the moment. I gotta get me a set of those kinipex paranel jaws pliers
Those are great pliers.
What do you hate about 3D printing? My home made printer can be a bit flakey, but I find it a really handy tool.
@@RotarySMP is so damn difficult sometimes.
@@TommiHonkonen I drew up and printed some cable clamps last night, but this morning the prints were scrap, as the nozzle must have clogged.
@@RotarySMP exactly, difficult. My main difficulty is atm the fact i have a ratrig v core but it takes too much effort to get it printing now, I would have to tear it apart and rebuild, must be the frame because its 500mm3. The minion prints just fine.
I'm starting to worry that if he ever gets that damned name plate cleaned it will be a sign of the apocalypse and mark the "Time of the End."
"The end of the world is nigh" :)
Sound track had UB40 / secret of monkey Island vibes
Some more from the TH-cam music library. Hope it worked for you.
@@RotarySMP was pleasant reminder of my youth days
I'm surprised you don't have "Try to take over the world" in your to do list.
Nah, Elon is already onto it. :)
Nice. What 3D printer do you use?
It is a home made modification of the Mendel90, using a 20mm MDF frame.
But did the replacement take 2 hours?
more like 2^3.
Link to soundtrack at 9:54 thereabouts, please....
Irie - Quincas Moreira
@@RotarySMP Thank you, Sir .
Do you really want to cover the CPU as you would normally have a heat sink or fan on it?
It is only a low powered FPGA, which needs no heat sink. There is plenty of space between it and the board I mounted above for air to flow.
4:05 why not just cut 2 notches into the 5 pin connector where it interferes with the air connectors?
And have no content for you? .)
Dumb question time: The 3D model to produce the 3D print... Was that used to produce the g-code for the CNC? or did you have to re-do it?
I guess the question really is... Is it possible to prototype using the 3D printer then use the same model to produce a "professional" CNC milled one?
I drew the part in FreeCad, and sliced the STL in Cura. For the machined part, I deleted a few features in FreeCAD, as I was threading the metal rather than using captive nuts, output an IGS, and then did the CAM path in an ancient version of FeatureCAM from the early 2000's.
If you use Fusion360, you could do all those in that single program.
Just as well you didn't show Nico the relay PCB bracket! Call me a butcher, but I would have trimmed the corners of the mounting flange of the multi-pin connector if that would have given enough room.
Yeah, I considered machining that, but didn't have time.
I know you are frugal, thats something I admire about you, but man you gotta save up and get a Haimer. It's the greatest tool ever invented, cuts set up time in half, more accurate, more better.
I was donated a Haimer. It is on the shelf as it is not working, and needs to be torn down and serviced. Haven't go to it yet.
What does the SMP in your channel name mean?
Small Metal Plane. About 25 years ago, I had the idea to design and build a rotary engined small metal plane. The project died, but I use it as a tag in the internet.
@@RotarySMP that's so cool. Would love an autopsy or revival of the project for a milestone video. Could make the generic "I answer questions" milestone video very interesting if you walk through your history while tackling your channel's namesake project.
@@sazafrass I didn't get very far on the design. First switched direction to a Vans RV-4, then a partially built Bushby Mustang 2 kit fell into my lap, and then I changed direction completely.
@@RotarySMP darn. Thanks for the responses. Love your channel. Love your anecdotes. Keep up the fantastic work.
@@sazafrass Thanks for your support.
i think i should warn you. the day you finally clean that plate, you may feel empty and as if you lost all sense of purpose. just saying, you don't just defeat your greatest adversary and move on like nothing ever happened. :P
No great risk of me getting that high quality swiss gunk out of it any time soon :)
why is your printer called wiener 90 in cura
Because that is its name...
reprap.com/wiki/Wiener90
:)
Selbstfurchende Pneumatikanschlüsse? That's a new one...
Not sure what that means sorry, Alexander?
@@RotarySMP "Thread-rolling pneumatic connectors"
@@graealex Oh, right :) Yeah, the hole was only marginally too small, so I didn't mind skimming it with the thread. You can see I could hole it by hand while screwing it in, so it was not much too tight.
@@RotarySMP There are actually special screws for that. They don't cut, but they form the thread in an undersized hole, and through work-hardening create pretty good threads that afterwards will fit normal machine screws. Used them extensively in the past. Although the thread-forming screw can be left in anyway.
@@graealex I guess they use a lot of self tapping screws in sheet metal work. This was just laziness.
i think some times 3d print is okay
Yeah, it would have been fine for this job. Hidden over the back of the machine. Schaublin didn't even bother with a close out, they just had cables and air running in through that hole. But content is king :)
@@RotarySMP yep i agree
WTF!! ,,, Niko was right? Maybe the broom idea was? Nope
Dont tell Nico he was right :)
Someone’s been shooting instax again eh?
Yeah, I dusted off the Instax conversion and started shooting regularly with it. I will need to do another one, now that Polaroid 195 and 180's are failing in value.
I just stripped down and fixed the shutter of my 180, can’t decide if I should convert it to instax or do little wet plate shots with it.
@@iNerdier Have you seen the conversions from Jianyi Ju?
instagram.com/p/CQTMXkipMV5/
He really nailed it. The key is to the split the body horizontally, and space the top up about 15mm. That way you can get instax to the original film plane. It would be cool to that to a 180 or 195, and keep the original front standard unmodified.
@@RotarySMP that looks like a great solution and I agree about keeping the front/lens. The hard part always seemed to be managing ejecting and not hitting the viewfinder. I made with a friend a replacement board for the electronics in an instax wide 210 with the idea of gutting the eject mechanism and using that but never got any further.
@@iNerdier I really don't understand why Fuji outsourced wide camera design to fisher price. Mint showed that instax wide cameras don't have to be butt ugly.
SH will likely fail as there a several major structural problems with it and as the main rocket guy just left the company that actually drove their success I do not expect much.
It may well do. I wonder what the work culture in SpaceX is like?
Linox! now you are just baiting me. Ha! And come on, admit it, you are regrungeing that name plate for the cleaning shot each time aren't you. I've reviewed the old shots, the grunge isn't in the same spots. You sneak!
I wasn't, but now you are givening me ideas :)
@@RotarySMP I still loves ya. ;)
Wow, that Austrian low fat milk you’re using looks awful 😢
It is probably german, as I bought the Mill in Baveria, and never replaced the coolant :/