A tip we use in our machine shop, after you run your threads come back with your OD turning tool for a skim over the top of the threads then run the last pass of the threading tool again. Leaves amazing threads with no need to file by hand.
Came here to to say this, and to use a smaller radius tool and profile the radius. The CNC doesn't need to plunge cut with the right radius to get the final shape.
Just a bit of advice Adam. When your adjusting your sizes you should be adding or subtracting using the X Wear and Z Wear offset box for the tools not adjusting the X Length and Z Length which you get using the tool probe. You might also need to ask miltronics if your tool table is set to adjust diameter or radius because I have a feeling when you adjusted your size you actually doubled it which is why your size came out double what you expected which tells me you need to adjust only for the radius not diameter.
Adam, a little tip for you on repeating stick outs: call up tool 1 and bring it into something like X4Z0 and hand jog into X0 with the stock back in the chuck jaws. Pull the stock out until it touches the tool. It acts like a stop and your stickouts will all be within a few thou if you're repeating ops like this.
I got myself an entry level cnc router for xmas ... and Oh My Lord!!! You are 100% correct ... reminds me of computer programming back in the 80's .. we swore by GIGO ..garbage in, garbage out.
Hi Adam, please use the wear fields in the tool offset table for the tool correction offsets. When you change the tool length youre in grave danger of crashing your machine if you mistype. Thats what the wear fields are for. Best, Martin
To get rid of the burrs on the thread, either run topping inserts which automatically crest the very top of the thread, or take a spring/very very lite finishing pass over the thread OD. Great work, keep it up!
On your tool comp on the threading tool, you should've only changed it by 0.0005" instead of 0.001". You take 0.0005" on each side which gives you the full 0.001". Nice work!
At first I was a bit worried that a superb precision machinist channel might be ruined by the introduction of CNC. But I was completely wrong: This promises to be a fascinating journey where a superb machinist learns to teach a machine to do work to HIS standards - it's clearly not just 'plug and play' as I'd assumed!
For a better chuck key check out what Peter uses at Edge Precision. It's a ratchet where the handle can extend and a short adapter to suit the chuck. As soon as I saw that I had to get one, and now use it all the time, for lots of things.
I program with solidcam for the last 10 years, I program in metric, but I always leave 0.1mm in my roughing program, then come back with a finish pass so it's very light on the cut and eliminates all chatter with the tooling, machine and stock. Always always always run a finish pass for a quality finish and to size more consistently 👌 love watching you grow with cnc. Old school subscriber.
Adam you’ll want to add or subtract in the “wear” tab not the offset # your wear tab will be either radial or diameter. Add positive value at first then subtract your way to size.
Great video as always. You inspired me to get my own machines. Not much, but a little Clausing 8520 and a 14x42 Logan have given me hours of entertainment. I’d venture to say that I’ve been able to run them from what I’ve learned from you. I thank you.
You can top the threads leave like .003 or less usually 1-3 thou radially on before you finish the threads then take your dia right to size then run the threader once for your final pass. For the chatter I would start with reducing your spindle speed for the threads and with the groove like you said use a smaller one and take multiple cuts.
Can I just say how happy it made me to see the precision that even the pig mat was placed on the table in the beginning. I am sure it makes many of us very happy to see it not out of square with the table. Thanks Adam!
I went back and rewatched the video to see if I missed something. He said he was going to figure out how to program the job using "conversational". Next, he has the metal rod in the machine, but no programming. Later we see a screen with numbers already filled in for a program file "Shaft Threaded End" with no explanation as to how he got there. There is chattering which could be reduced or eliminated with maybe more and lighter passes. It would have been enlightening to follow through with that thought. But changes are made off-camera. He only displays knowledge of how to use a micrometer to verify the threads. It's OK to say I don't know, but I think a lot of us are assuming a lot of calls were made to support while the camera was off. I would respect him more if he bought 2 or 3 $1000 machines to learn on, then stepped up his equipment as his skills increased. Everyone can relate to that. I really didn't learn anything from this video. The question everyone is asking themselves is how is this new shop going to make money beyond hats and T-shirts. As the king of Siam said " In my head are many facts Of which I wish I was more certain, I was sure, Is a puzzlement"!
I usually re-cut the theead major diameter and take another spring pass on the threads to remove the burrs on threaded parts. Easy peasy on CNC machines.
I have no suggestions or criticisms, but just plain awe at your courage to learn CNC work. Looking through the comments here you may be able to learn from some and get a smile from others. Thanks much for sharing your experience with us.
You are brave to show what it takes to learn new technology and I hope it inspires more to learn this too. I really enjoy your videos and I wish you continued success.
My son, for a short time, was working for a CNC shop as a temp. He still had to manually deburr every part as it came out of the machine. Maybe the burrs are typical and you'll always need to file them.
Adam, talk to Milltronics about how their lathes are setup. When you change a tool geometry offset by 0.001" that will likely be a radial change. Some controls have options for making the wear offsets radial or diametric. I've got my lathes set up in diametric but your one thou change may have moved two thou just because it is a diametric change, not a radial change.
@@richardjones7249 Adam is drinking from a firehose right now and this is a simple thing to miss or forget during (or since) training. I have been running my specific machines here for a few years and still constantly have questions for the applications guys. I'm just trying to help him the best I can because he taught me how to run a lathe for free on the internet and now I am actually in a position to potentially give back.
Happy New Year. Love your videos and have learned a lot from you. On the fuzzys after threading: I was taught that after the threading, do another finish OD pass with your turning tool and then a final spring pass with the threading tool. This takes the burrs off the OD and the final threading spring pass takes the ones off that the OD tool folded in.
He's fully aware of that in manual machining, he was saying he needs to learn how to program that into the CNC program, or learn how to do a manual cleanup pass after the program runs.
Topping inserts are the only way to not have burrs unless you do a finish turning pass after the threading. You can run the finish pass backwards and it will debur the thread on the chamfer.
Hey abom, as I'm native on a CNC lathe (learned manual lathing after CNC) it's fascinating to see your progress, you can tell that you have the knowledge of the basics pretty dialed in :) For your threading operations you should consider full profile inserts instead of the partial, much cleaner results. My goto insert would be a DNMG instead of the CNMG on this size of machine and kinda rough stuff. With a DNMG you dont need the grooving operation. And i dont know your control, but there should be a table for wear correction, normally you do your tool corrections in this table and not in the tool data itself.
You are learning fast. If I may, a few tips. With a long bar, use a sleeve inside the spindle tube so the bar can't whip around. That long bar will amplify any chatter in the cut. For cutting steel, use a different tool to finish because the roughing tool will wear and need constant adjustment if it's also finishing. After threading, make another finish cut to remove burrs. Then do another threading cut to remove the burr left by the second finish pass. If there is no ring gage, use a nut to check the threads all the way to the relief. The threading should be programmed right up to the far end of the relief--it won't hit the wall.
Dont make your offset changes in the geometry number, you'll just lose track of what you've done and not have a good reference point for when you change an insert. Make those changes in the wear value by putting .001 in the X wear, that way you have an easy way to tell what you have changed and by how much.
Adam, consider this for thread relief now that you are on a cnc. I noticed you have a vnmg holder, 35* OD tool. The beauty of that tool is you can produce a 45* backside chamfer. Use that tool to create the back thread relief down to about 0.01 past the minor diameter.
Top Tip. There is movement between the bar stock and the chuck jaws "because of the rust on the bar stock" Two minutes with an angle grinder with wire brush. It doesn't do your precision ground chuck jaws any good at all.
Nice to see you using this machine, The nice thing about CNC lathes is you don't need to use those types of radius tools like you would on a manual lathe. You can program a DNMG type insert to go in there and put what ever shape you want. I'm not criticizing, just reminding you. I'm not very good yet at programming from scratch yet. I run and edit alot of programs on CNC lathes at my day job. Love it. We usually rough everything with CNMG on tool #2 then finish with DNMG tool #1. Pretty cool how you can program those radius in with a normal cutting tool or even use radius tools moving in the program, not just straight in. Thanks for the video, I love these CNC videos.
Huge respect , congrats on your machines. As soon as you are comfortable , I’d advise you to get a used Japanese cnc lathe ( hydraulic chucker) . Old mori , Okuma , etc. chatter issues and repeatability is great, even on 20 year old machines . I started doing what you do, so I know the learning curve.
Using a modified flank infeed method when threading on a CNC gives incredable results. first line of G76Pxxyyzz, the XX is how many spring passes, the ZZ is your infeed angle. Putting a 29 there will make it act like the compound on your manual lathe (For 60 degree threads). I run G76 P030029 for all my threads. Using both sides of the threader puts out a ton of pressure giving you deflection and chatter. Modified flank infeed only uses the back side.
Great job, I noticed your screwcutting tool was still taking a big cut on last pass, you need a spring pass, a CNC machine like this with an insert like that will make mirror finish threads with no burrs.
Very cool! I’d love to see more of the programming side of things, like how you configure the individual steps, what params you have to set and how it looks on the UI.
take lighter cuts for the finish passes with the threading tool, take more cuts, add coolant, the took rub will cause chatter. i just went through this with my lathe. with grooving tool, use a z back and forth walk in, so oscillating the z on the way in. all lessons my lathe has taught me
The advantage and speed of the CNC is incredible, in the time of going to look for a clock to time the time in which the work is completed and boom, in the blink of an eye the work is finished !! How fast !! regards
Those CMC$ will be a godsend when you need to batch out a lot of identical parts. That will let you work on other projects while the mind numbing process of making the same small part over and over and over it’s done by the CNC. Awesome
I ran a Bridgeport mill with Hurco CNC control back in 76 and 77. I had my supervisor there with me to teach me how to work it, but I couldn’t imagine trying to do it by myself. I’m sure this time next year you’ll be proficient at CNC programming and will use them for most of your work
@@4418CARLOU I dont know, if its needed here, depends on the function and the other part. The final workpiece has a shoulder and without an uc u dont have a full thread at the end.
There isn’t a wear offset on the tools? Those little burrs on the OD finish could be improved by doing two things. Use a different tool for your finish cut at a higher surface footage or speed. I’m not sure but by the sound of the video. Are you running in constant surface speed on your turning cuts? Or maybe you have limited the speed in the program. Typically to make a thread relief I use a 35 degree diamond turning tool. I turn down a 45 degree angle into the relief into the relief. Rough the relief and then do your finish OD cut with that tool with the thread relief all in that finish cut.
Getting his cutting forces pushing down, instead of pulling up will help as well. Especially in that little machine. It will help his diameter control immensely. And, no offense intended, but he's trying to run it like a manual. Lighter D.O.C, lighter semi-finish and finish passes, even with the same tool, will do wonders.
@@tedsaylor6016 Ted I just saw this comment. I wouldn’t mind it but I don’t know when it could be. All my spare time for trips going to Mexico for my building project. I did once meet Adam at the first Good of the land meet up here in Texas. I think for being totally new to CNC Adam is doing real well. That manual experience is really a big help.
@17:38 Use a full profile Insert , that insert will Top off the threads Major Dimension too , you won't have burr, Or if I don't have one generally I make a finish pass followed by a thread repass not efficient but I get clean threads , the Tooling representative will surely have a solution too
Because you are dealing with a round circle, as you add or subtract diameter, your number will be doubled as it takes material from the circumference. If you want to remove 0.001", you would change it 0.0005" (half the distance).
I was thinking the same but he ended up getting his desired diameter with a spring pass. Some machines move with adjustments diameter based not radially.
It depends on how the lathe is configured. Many lathes presume radial values. On CNC machines, it's usually configurable. Adam needs to find out how his is setup.
Hi, I have noticed that 250rmp makes less tool deflection and have more control on it. Full profile insert on threads is my recommendation for better results without filing afterwards 💪 I have in siemens control and there is cycle for thread relief, easy to make with vnmg tool👌 Keep on training and there it comes that same confidence that you have with manual machines💫
You may want to try a G76 multi pass threading cycle using your CAM software. It basically cuts one side of the thread at a time, alternating each pass. It doesn’t load the insert as much and you’ll probably have less deflection.
I'd say maybe the cuts are a bit aggressive for the set up? And yes as some others have mentioned, a spring pass can be added in to de-bur the thread. But that is the learning process and I think you are smashing it with the cnc learning curve so keep pushing 🤛
I could watch you make art all day mate. The cnc form of it is just as satisfying as the manual version. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride man.
At around 2:54 make note of what diameter is on the display. 3:01 pause program-measure-make that adjustment here then rest should be gnats ass without the scrap. Gimme more Milltronics content!!!
To reduce the chatter, move the material closer to the chuck. For the groove tool, reduce your RPM and increase feed rate. In your programming, face your part first, then turn and then chamfer last.
Sooo nice to see you starting to learn this machine. I can see already now that your skills to try this out with curiosity, trying and see the result, is already reaping success. Looking forward to see a mix of manual and CNC material on you channel. :-)
Very nice work. I know you are running dry to show the work. Kind of think threads would be sweet with cutting fluid. You are a master on the manual part so you can and will master the CNC stuff too.
Interesting thread measurement tool, I don’t remember them or they were not though of when I was a young apprentice. First time I’ve seen them. I learned on the old 3 wire and still have them 25 years later.
From an empty chuck to finished thread was 2 minutes, not counting measuring, de-burring and removal. The final threading operation before tool change was also 2 minutes but it included measurement. Amazing.
Skim the OD profile from back to front after the initial threading passes then take 2-3 more spring passes. Also, no need for relief groove tools anymore, Just do it all with the 35° turning tool.
Amazing all the CNC experts on here who must have been born with the CNC knowledge. Surely they didn’t learn it over time and trial/error. Suggestions are one thing, but to say crap like “why didn’t you do this, why didn’t you do that” serves no purpose. He simply may not have known. It’s a new skill and he’s in the learning stage.
If simple questions hurt your feelings, in a TH-cam comments section with no connection to you, wow, life will be difficult for you. You can't control people's behavior, especially on the internet. Grow up.
How is he going to get better if no one with experience gives tips on how it should be? I myself have been in machining school about 6years in batches and worked as a CNC lathe operator for about 10years.
Was waiting for this type of comment, and it finally arrives. It appears that some people cannot bear that others know more about CNC than Adam, so they come out with the derogatory 'expert' term. Though missing the 'armchair' bit, because they know that there are thousands doing their shift in the CNC world, day in day out. It would be real fun in the comments section if Adam decided to to a maths degree, and took us along with him; after all, nobody knows more about maths than Adam, lol.
It is better to learn from other people's mistakes rather than redo them over again. That's the point of teachers. It makes it a lot harder to figure out what is going wrong if no one else makes suggestions based on their own experience of similar problems.
@@StefanGotteswinter Well I didn't specify but I meant about CNC machine operations. lol Otherwise I do know a lot about a little and a little about a lot. 🙂
I would love to see a video on how you programmed the lathe to do that operation. It might be boring for some, but I think a few people would be interested in learning what you have to do to make a part like you just made. Thanks for all the great videos and advice. Keep up the great work.
Adam how warm is the part getting after all the cuts not running coolant? That maybe a factor in your thread measurements. When CNC cutting because the work is so fast it generates heat instantly with no cool downs between cuts. The reducing cuts may need a 5 minute delay before moving on to the next cut or use your mister for now. The coolant is key when CNC cutting. A good tool to use is a laser temp gauge to get better measurements. Having your coolant set up will make everything your experiencing go away.😉👍Happy New Year & Many Many More!
Nice little project! I would have loved seeing you do the actual programming, the tool setup, ... Just to see how that works, what thoughts you go through, and so on. And for you it would be a beneficial repetition to memorize all that even better and also get a better overview how to navigate the software. Happy New Year!
You should face the part first will save your insert. Run the facing with slightly lower feed and more rpm. Get a finishing and roughing tool aswell. Btw something like a vnmg insert can actually make nice thread reliefs. Also feeds seem a bit high for that small of a lathe. You should take a few more passes threading and take a spring pass. The grooving tool does not love that seems like too high of rpm and maybe not super rigid machine
After seeing the last cuts you did that was much better looking than what I saw on the start. Wish you woulda got a Mazak I’d drive down there to help you out and you’d be making simple parts like that in 10 minutes of programming after only a couple hours of learning.
10:20 Perhaps do a .010" cleanup cut on the OD of your material before starting to cut threats, to ensure the overall final diameter.? 11:25 aha fine minds think alike you did it.! Happy next year
hey Adam, i just Look this Video now 😅 i am CNC and manuell Lathe Machinist From Germany and i ask me why you don't do some Things on your CNC Lathe 1. coolant makes a big difference 😉 2. i Machine the face First then the od With allowance for Finish Cut 3. the Finish Cut with a Finishing Tool Like DCMT or mabye a VNMG Insert you can do the grove with it too without chatter 😉 4. thread cycle use a cycle that make Constant infeed in the thread and breaks the chip alternately to the right and left and you can make it faster but less deep of cut i I normally assume an infeed of 0.2 mm for the thread my Programm in DIN PLUS (Heidenhain) would look Like so G54 G14 Q0 G26 S=2200(RPM) T1 F=0,3 G96=150 M4 M8 G0 X45 Z2 G82 Facing Cycle G810 OD contour Roughing Cycle G14 Q0 M9 M1 T2 F=0,15 G96=250 M4 M8 G0 X45 Z0 G1 X-1 G0 X45 Z2 G890 OD Contour Finish Cut Cycle G14 Q0 M9 M1 T4 G97=500 M3 M8 G0 X45 Z10 G32 Threading Cycle G14 Q0 M9 M30 ✌️
@@Yigal_F привет, я пытаюсь перевести на русский с помощью переводчика Google 😅 Так что у меня самого нет производства, я нанят оператором раскройного станка (оператор станка с ЧПУ) в компанию в Германии
Walter tools probably recommends over double the speed on mild steel. 500rpm is like 50m/min, very low. It should be closer to 130m/min or 1300rpm. But that would probably go over the max feed speed on that machine, not sure tho. Maybe more passes, spring passes and/or lubrication is the answer in this case.
Happy New Year and thanks for the video. You only need two tools for the job you showed in the video. T1 Planing ,linear turning and thread release T2 Threading
Doing very nice Mr Adam. Whooshing you and yours a wonderful New Year and great adventures coming with your new shop. I’m enjoying and looking to see each and every video.
First, calm down on the cut depths and feeds in your program. That machine isn’t rigid enough for what you’re programming. Second, for the threading cycle. ALWAYS run your offset above finish diameter. Start with +0.015” and check it. Then run the cycle again at half that offset and check again. Then incrementally move the offset the amount left to hit your target for a last pass. Never just trust the machine to hit the diameters right on all the time. Always run your offsets (wear comp) above your targets. Also you had zero coolant while cutting. The material is obviously going to tear up while threading.
Vibration due to lack of spindle/turret rigidity ... I work on a mori seiki nl2500/700 dual spindle . Try to reduce the threading passes to 2/3thou and put 2 spring pass at the end of cycle ... The grooving tool for thread relief try Also on that 2/3 thou per rev
Nice job! It’s been a long time since I’ve watched your vids. You have come a long way from your first vids so long ago lol! It’s making how technology can make our lives so much easier and productivity can improve like this. Nice job getting the concrete machine. It is definitely the way!
A tip we use in our machine shop, after you run your threads come back with your OD turning tool for a skim over the top of the threads then run the last pass of the threading tool again. Leaves amazing threads with no need to file by hand.
Nice tip thanks
Came here to to say this, and to use a smaller radius tool and profile the radius. The CNC doesn't need to plunge cut with the right radius to get the final shape.
Just a bit of advice Adam. When your adjusting your sizes you should be adding or subtracting using the X Wear and Z Wear offset box for the tools not adjusting the X Length and Z Length which you get using the tool probe. You might also need to ask miltronics if your tool table is set to adjust diameter or radius because I have a feeling when you adjusted your size you actually doubled it which is why your size came out double what you expected which tells me you need to adjust only for the radius not diameter.
Adam, a little tip for you on repeating stick outs: call up tool 1 and bring it into something like X4Z0 and hand jog into X0 with the stock back in the chuck jaws. Pull the stock out until it touches the tool. It acts like a stop and your stickouts will all be within a few thou if you're repeating ops like this.
The good thing about CNC is it does exactly what you tell it, the bad thing about CNC is, it does exactly what you tell it 😂
I got myself an entry level cnc router for xmas ... and Oh My Lord!!! You are 100% correct ... reminds me of computer programming back in the 80's .. we swore by GIGO ..garbage in, garbage out.
True
Exactly 🤣
With cnc you don’t really need a thread relief, but you can also dwell the thread tool at the end of the cut.
Hi Adam,
please use the wear fields in the tool offset table for the tool correction offsets. When you change the tool length youre in grave danger of crashing your machine if you mistype. Thats what the wear fields are for.
Best,
Martin
I really like the use of the pig mat on your table to protect the surface and keep 'stuff' from rolling or skittering off a flat surface.
To get rid of the burrs on the thread, either run topping inserts which automatically crest the very top of the thread, or take a spring/very very lite finishing pass over the thread OD. Great work, keep it up!
Stay curious Adam 👍🏻. In about two hours it will be 2023 here in the Netherlands. And then, Happy New Year! 🎉
On your tool comp on the threading tool, you should've only changed it by 0.0005" instead of 0.001". You take 0.0005" on each side which gives you the full 0.001". Nice work!
It depends if the tool table is in radius or diameter.
@@LesNewell Based on his result (a diff of 0.002") I'd say his table is in radius. But yeah, you are correct.
At first I was a bit worried that a superb precision machinist channel might be ruined by the introduction of CNC. But I was completely wrong: This promises to be a fascinating journey where a superb machinist learns to teach a machine to do work to HIS standards - it's clearly not just 'plug and play' as I'd assumed!
For a better chuck key check out what Peter uses at Edge Precision. It's a ratchet where the handle can extend and a short adapter to suit the chuck. As soon as I saw that I had to get one, and now use it all the time, for lots of things.
Peter is the highest level cnc mahcinst ive ever seen.
I program with solidcam for the last 10 years, I program in metric, but I always leave 0.1mm in my roughing program, then come back with a finish pass so it's very light on the cut and eliminates all chatter with the tooling, machine and stock. Always always always run a finish pass for a quality finish and to size more consistently 👌 love watching you grow with cnc. Old school subscriber.
Adam you’ll want to add or subtract in the “wear” tab not the offset # your wear tab will be either radial or diameter. Add positive value at first then subtract your way to size.
Great video as always. You inspired me to get my own machines. Not much, but a little Clausing 8520 and a 14x42 Logan have given me hours of entertainment. I’d venture to say that I’ve been able to run them from what I’ve learned from you. I thank you.
You can top the threads leave like .003 or less usually 1-3 thou radially on before you finish the threads then take your dia right to size then run the threader once for your final pass. For the chatter I would start with reducing your spindle speed for the threads and with the groove like you said use a smaller one and take multiple cuts.
That’s a remarkable machine. Don’t get frustrated. You are learning.
Can I just say how happy it made me to see the precision that even the pig mat was placed on the table in the beginning. I am sure it makes many of us very happy to see it not out of square with the table. Thanks Adam!
@jkworth7381 funny thing that was the first thing I noticed too. OCD
I went back and rewatched the video to see if I missed something. He said he was going to figure out how to program the job using "conversational". Next, he has the metal rod in the machine, but no programming. Later we see a screen with numbers already filled in for a program file "Shaft Threaded End" with no explanation as to how he got there. There is chattering which could be reduced or eliminated with maybe more and lighter passes. It would have been enlightening to follow through with that thought. But changes are made off-camera. He only displays knowledge of how to use a micrometer to verify the threads. It's OK to say I don't know, but I think a lot of us are assuming a lot of calls were made to support while the camera was off. I would respect him more if he bought 2 or 3 $1000 machines to learn on, then stepped up his equipment as his skills increased. Everyone can relate to that. I really didn't learn anything from this video. The question everyone is asking themselves is how is this new shop going to make money beyond hats and T-shirts. As the king of Siam said " In my head are many facts
Of which I wish I was more certain, I was sure,
Is a puzzlement"!
I usually re-cut the theead major diameter and take another spring pass on the threads to remove the burrs on threaded parts. Easy peasy on CNC machines.
I have no suggestions or criticisms, but just plain awe at your courage to learn CNC work. Looking through the comments here you may be able to learn from some and get a smile from others. Thanks much for sharing your experience with us.
You are brave to show what it takes to learn new technology and I hope it inspires more to learn this too.
I really enjoy your videos and I wish you continued success.
Happy New year Adam from the UK
My son, for a short time, was working for a CNC shop as a temp. He still had to manually deburr every part as it came out of the machine. Maybe the burrs are typical and you'll always need to file them.
Adam, talk to Milltronics about how their lathes are setup. When you change a tool geometry offset by 0.001" that will likely be a radial change. Some controls have options for making the wear offsets radial or diametric. I've got my lathes set up in diametric but your one thou change may have moved two thou just because it is a diametric change, not a radial change.
Agree. The ML22 I use at work is setup for radial adjustment in the offsets but I'm thinking it can be changed to diametric as well.
He had a Milltronics guy there for training on the machine. Wear offsets are as basic as it comes and surely would have been part of that 'training'.
@@richardjones7249 Adam is drinking from a firehose right now and this is a simple thing to miss or forget during (or since) training. I have been running my specific machines here for a few years and still constantly have questions for the applications guys. I'm just trying to help him the best I can because he taught me how to run a lathe for free on the internet and now I am actually in a position to potentially give back.
Happy New Year. Love your videos and have learned a lot from you. On the fuzzys after threading: I was taught that after the threading, do another finish OD pass with your turning tool and then a final spring pass with the threading tool. This takes the burrs off the OD and the final threading spring pass takes the ones off that the OD tool folded in.
He's fully aware of that in manual machining, he was saying he needs to learn how to program that into the CNC program, or learn how to do a manual cleanup pass after the program runs.
@kinda blue
I was suggesting that he put them in his program , not do them manually.
Topping inserts are the only way to not have burrs unless you do a finish turning pass after the threading. You can run the finish pass backwards and it will debur the thread on the chamfer.
Great work Adam. We always had, a spindle stop and program pause, to measure the diameter and input offsets, before final diameter is machined.
I can’t believe you actually used the CNC again. I am so impressed.
Hey abom, as I'm native on a CNC lathe (learned manual lathing after CNC) it's fascinating to see your progress, you can tell that you have the knowledge of the basics pretty dialed in :) For your threading operations you should consider full profile inserts instead of the partial, much cleaner results. My goto insert would be a DNMG instead of the CNMG on this size of machine and kinda rough stuff. With a DNMG you dont need the grooving operation. And i dont know your control, but there should be a table for wear correction, normally you do your tool corrections in this table and not in the tool data itself.
You are learning fast. If I may, a few tips. With a long bar, use a sleeve inside the spindle tube so the bar can't whip around. That long bar will amplify any chatter in the cut. For cutting steel, use a different tool to finish because the roughing tool will wear and need constant adjustment if it's also finishing. After threading, make another finish cut to remove burrs. Then do another threading cut to remove the burr left by the second finish pass. If there is no ring gage, use a nut to check the threads all the way to the relief. The threading should be programmed right up to the far end of the relief--it won't hit the wall.
Dont make your offset changes in the geometry number, you'll just lose track of what you've done and not have a good reference point for when you change an insert. Make those changes in the wear value by putting .001 in the X wear, that way you have an easy way to tell what you have changed and by how much.
Adam, consider this for thread relief now that you are on a cnc.
I noticed you have a vnmg holder, 35* OD tool. The beauty of that tool is you can produce a 45* backside chamfer. Use that tool to create the back thread relief down to about 0.01 past the minor diameter.
Top Tip. There is movement between the bar stock and the chuck jaws "because of the rust on the bar stock" Two minutes with an angle grinder with wire brush. It doesn't do your precision ground chuck jaws any good at all.
Nice to see you using this machine, The nice thing about CNC lathes is you don't need to use those types of radius tools like you would on a manual lathe. You can program a DNMG type insert to go in there and put what ever shape you want. I'm not criticizing, just reminding you. I'm not very good yet at programming from scratch yet. I run and edit alot of programs on CNC lathes at my day job. Love it. We usually rough everything with CNMG on tool #2 then finish with DNMG tool #1. Pretty cool how you can program those radius in with a normal cutting tool or even use radius tools moving in the program, not just straight in. Thanks for the video, I love these CNC videos.
Expanding your skill set. That's the mark of a smart man; always eager to learn more.
Huge respect , congrats on your machines. As soon as you are comfortable , I’d advise you to get a used Japanese cnc lathe ( hydraulic chucker) . Old mori , Okuma , etc. chatter issues and repeatability is great, even on 20 year old machines .
I started doing what you do, so I know the learning curve.
Using a modified flank infeed method when threading on a CNC gives incredable results.
first line of G76Pxxyyzz, the XX is how many spring passes, the ZZ is your infeed angle.
Putting a 29 there will make it act like the compound on your manual lathe (For 60 degree threads).
I run G76 P030029 for all my threads.
Using both sides of the threader puts out a ton of pressure giving you deflection and chatter.
Modified flank infeed only uses the back side.
It’s the way to learn, even one off jobs give an opportunity to learn… glad you are getting into cnc.
Great job, I noticed your screwcutting tool was still taking a big cut on last pass, you need a spring pass, a CNC machine like this with an insert like that will make mirror finish threads with no burrs.
Poetry in motion. Guessing you were impressed with the speed and effortless machining. Happy New Year!
I admire your courage in switching to CNC. I do think that you have to spend several hours a day to learn it properly. Bless you.
Very cool! I’d love to see more of the programming side of things, like how you configure the individual steps, what params you have to set and how it looks on the UI.
Wao
The machinist turn to be a programmer.
Them machine it’s fast .
Those are good to repeat jobs .
I still love the manual lathe .
No computer .
Thanks Adam! Learning curves aren't easy, but they're all needed and progress speed don't matter - just progress at your pace dude.
take lighter cuts for the finish passes with the threading tool, take more cuts, add coolant, the took rub will cause chatter. i just went through this with my lathe. with grooving tool, use a z back and forth walk in, so oscillating the z on the way in. all lessons my lathe has taught me
The advantage and speed of the CNC is incredible, in the time of going to look for a clock to time the time in which the work is completed and boom, in the blink of an eye the work is finished !! How fast !!
regards
i love hearing the spindle changing speeds mid cut to keep the inches per min the same. so cool.
Those CMC$ will be a godsend when you need to batch out a lot of identical parts. That will let you work on other projects while the mind numbing process of making the same small part over and over and over it’s done by the CNC. Awesome
I ran a Bridgeport mill with Hurco CNC control back in 76 and 77. I had my supervisor there with me to teach me how to work it, but I couldn’t imagine trying to do it by myself.
I’m sure this time next year you’ll be proficient at CNC programming and will use them for most of your work
Its a cnc, so there is no need for a chattering grooving-tool at this point, just turn the undercut with your dnmg-insert (-30°). Happy new year!
It's not necessary for an u/c on that job.
@@4418CARLOU I dont know, if its needed here, depends on the function and the other part. The final workpiece has a shoulder and without an uc u dont have a full thread at the end.
u/c = undercut.
@@4418CARLOU Yea, figured it out in the meantime, but thx. Thats why i edited my last commentary... but it seems u readed it before. Sry.
Great video 👍 As John Saunders and John grissmo have said a CNC machine need's a warm up cycle and temperature control to help keep tight tolerances.
keep on learning adam you're doin great
Keep on rollin' Adam. I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos.
I always add a finish od pass on parts that leave a little burr on the threads. it works 95% of the time
There isn’t a wear offset on the tools? Those little burrs on the OD finish could be improved by doing two things. Use a different tool for your finish cut at a higher surface footage or speed. I’m not sure but by the sound of the video. Are you running in constant surface speed on your turning cuts? Or maybe you have limited the speed in the program. Typically to make a thread relief I use a 35 degree diamond turning tool. I turn down a 45 degree angle into the relief into the relief. Rough the relief and then do your finish OD cut with that tool with the thread relief all in that finish cut.
THIS THIS THIS ^^^^^ - Peter, wouldn't you like to visit Pensacola??? Mr CNC meets Mr Manual. A Epic Video for us all.
Getting his cutting forces pushing down, instead of pulling up will help as well. Especially in that little machine. It will help his diameter control immensely. And, no offense intended, but he's trying to run it like a manual. Lighter D.O.C, lighter semi-finish and finish passes, even with the same tool, will do wonders.
@@tedsaylor6016 Ted I just saw this comment. I wouldn’t mind it but I don’t know when it could be. All my spare time for trips going to Mexico for my building project. I did once meet Adam at the first Good of the land meet up here in Texas. I think for being totally new to CNC Adam is doing real well. That manual experience is really a big help.
@17:38 Use a full profile Insert , that insert will Top off the threads Major Dimension too , you won't have burr, Or if I don't have one generally I make a finish pass followed by a thread repass not efficient but I get clean threads , the Tooling representative will surely have a solution too
Because you are dealing with a round circle, as you add or subtract diameter, your number will be doubled as it takes material from the circumference. If you want to remove 0.001", you would change it 0.0005" (half the distance).
I was thinking the same but he ended up getting his desired diameter with a spring pass. Some machines move with adjustments diameter based not radially.
It depends on how the lathe is configured. Many lathes presume radial values. On CNC machines, it's usually configurable. Adam needs to find out how his is setup.
Hi, I have noticed that 250rmp makes less tool deflection and have more control on it. Full profile insert on threads is my recommendation for better results without filing afterwards 💪 I have in siemens control and there is cycle for thread relief, easy to make with vnmg tool👌 Keep on training and there it comes that same confidence that you have with manual machines💫
You may want to try a G76 multi pass threading cycle using your CAM software. It basically cuts one side of the thread at a time, alternating each pass. It doesn’t load the insert as much and you’ll probably have less deflection.
I'd say maybe the cuts are a bit aggressive for the set up? And yes as some others have mentioned, a spring pass can be added in to de-bur the thread. But that is the learning process and I think you are smashing it with the cnc learning curve so keep pushing 🤛
I could watch you make art all day mate. The cnc form of it is just as satisfying as the manual version. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride man.
At around 2:54 make note of what diameter is on the display. 3:01 pause program-measure-make that adjustment here then rest should be gnats ass without the scrap. Gimme more Milltronics content!!!
To reduce the chatter, move the material closer to the chuck. For the groove tool, reduce your RPM and increase feed rate.
In your programming, face your part first, then turn and then chamfer last.
I am glad you said the radius cut isnt needed.
Sooo nice to see you starting to learn this machine.
I can see already now that your skills to try this out with curiosity, trying and see the result, is already reaping success.
Looking forward to see a mix of manual and CNC material on you channel. :-)
I wish you and your family and friends a Happy New Year.
Very nice work. I know you are running dry to show the work.
Kind of think threads would be sweet with cutting fluid. You are a master on the manual part so you can and will master the CNC stuff too.
Interesting thread measurement tool, I don’t remember them or they were not though of when I was a young apprentice. First time I’ve seen them. I learned on the old 3 wire and still have them 25 years later.
Take lighter cuts, take more spring passes, and use coolant.
And have a Happy New Year!
From an empty chuck to finished thread was 2 minutes, not counting measuring, de-burring and removal. The final threading operation before tool change was also 2 minutes but it included measurement. Amazing.
Skim the OD profile from back to front after the initial threading passes then take 2-3 more spring passes. Also, no need for relief groove tools anymore, Just do it all with the 35° turning tool.
To get rid of those fuzzies as you called them, run your od tool in a spring pass over the last program dimensions after threading. ✌
Yes!!! All about those spring passes
Getting good at the programming Adam. Nice job brother.
Sometimes, taking notes doesn't hurt, and lots of practice will do. You're doing a great job on the cnc.
Hi Adam, Happy New Year to you and your family. Best wishes in 2023. Thanks for sharing your videos. Take care
Instead of filing the threads, you should have it make a skim pass for the od afterward. Seeing a rusty bar in a cnc lathe is a rare sight.
Happy new year Abom! So much good content this year, looking forward to what Abby and yourself get into for 2023.
Wow! Those threads happen fast.
You're the 2nd person from TH-cam to ask me to text them on telegram for a prize.
Liking the CNC stuff but still love watching you do things manually. Keep up the content.
Amazing all the CNC experts on here who must have been born with the CNC knowledge. Surely they didn’t learn it over time and trial/error. Suggestions are one thing, but to say crap like “why didn’t you do this, why didn’t you do that” serves no purpose. He simply may not have known. It’s a new skill and he’s in the learning stage.
If simple questions hurt your feelings, in a TH-cam comments section with no connection to you, wow, life will be difficult for you. You can't control people's behavior, especially on the internet. Grow up.
How is he going to get better if no one with experience gives tips on how it should be?
I myself have been in machining school about 6years in batches and worked as a CNC lathe operator for about 10years.
Was waiting for this type of comment, and it finally arrives. It appears that some people cannot bear that others know more about CNC than Adam, so they come out with the derogatory 'expert' term. Though missing the 'armchair' bit, because they know that there are thousands doing their shift in the CNC world, day in day out. It would be real fun in the comments section if Adam decided to to a maths degree, and took us along with him; after all, nobody knows more about maths than Adam, lol.
You must be new to the internet
It is better to learn from other people's mistakes rather than redo them over again. That's the point of teachers. It makes it a lot harder to figure out what is going wrong if no one else makes suggestions based on their own experience of similar problems.
Lots of good insights in the comments here. Since I know nothing this helps me learn too. 🙂
You saying "you know nothing" is kinda hillarious :D
@@StefanGotteswinter Well I didn't specify but I meant about CNC machine operations. lol Otherwise I do know a lot about a little and a little about a lot. 🙂
I would love to see a video on how you programmed the lathe to do that operation. It might be boring for some, but I think a few people would be interested in learning what you have to do to make a part like you just made.
Thanks for all the great videos and advice. Keep up the great work.
Braving the unknown can be a bear to overcome but it is the best part of being new to something. These small victories are great motivators.
Adam how warm is the part getting after all the cuts not running coolant? That maybe a factor in your thread measurements. When CNC cutting because the work is so fast it generates heat instantly with no cool downs between cuts. The reducing cuts may need a 5 minute delay before moving on to the next cut or use your mister for now. The coolant is key when CNC cutting. A good tool to use is a laser temp gauge to get better measurements. Having your coolant set up will make everything your experiencing go away.😉👍Happy New Year & Many Many More!
Nice little project! I would have loved seeing you do the actual programming, the tool setup, ...
Just to see how that works, what thoughts you go through, and so on. And for you it would be a beneficial repetition to memorize all that even better and also get a better overview how to navigate the software.
Happy New Year!
You should face the part first will save your insert. Run the facing with slightly lower feed and more rpm. Get a finishing and roughing tool aswell.
Btw something like a vnmg insert can actually make nice thread reliefs.
Also feeds seem a bit high for that small of a lathe. You should take a few more passes threading and take a spring pass.
The grooving tool does not love that seems like too high of rpm and maybe not super rigid machine
After seeing the last cuts you did that was much better looking than what I saw on the start.
Wish you woulda got a Mazak I’d drive down there to help you out and you’d be making simple parts like that in 10 minutes of programming after only a couple hours of learning.
10:20 Perhaps do a .010" cleanup cut on the OD of your material before starting to cut threats, to ensure the overall final diameter.? 11:25 aha fine minds think alike you did it.! Happy next year
hey Adam,
i just Look this Video now 😅
i am CNC and manuell Lathe Machinist From Germany
and i ask me why you don't do some Things on your CNC Lathe
1. coolant makes a big difference 😉
2. i Machine the face First then the od With allowance for Finish Cut
3. the Finish Cut with a Finishing Tool Like DCMT or mabye a VNMG Insert you can do the grove with it too without chatter 😉
4. thread cycle use a cycle that make Constant infeed in the thread and breaks the chip alternately to the right and left
and you can make it faster but less deep of cut i I normally assume an infeed of 0.2 mm for the thread
my Programm in DIN PLUS (Heidenhain) would look Like so
G54
G14 Q0
G26 S=2200(RPM)
T1 F=0,3 G96=150 M4 M8
G0 X45 Z2
G82 Facing Cycle
G810 OD contour Roughing Cycle
G14 Q0 M9
M1
T2 F=0,15 G96=250 M4 M8
G0 X45 Z0
G1 X-1
G0 X45 Z2
G890 OD Contour Finish Cut Cycle
G14 Q0 M9
M1
T4 G97=500 M3 M8
G0 X45 Z10
G32 Threading Cycle
G14 Q0 M9
M30
✌️
@@Yigal_F привет, я пытаюсь перевести на русский с помощью переводчика Google 😅 Так что у меня самого нет производства, я нанят оператором раскройного станка (оператор станка с ЧПУ) в компанию в Германии
Walter tools probably recommends over double the speed on mild steel. 500rpm is like 50m/min, very low. It should be closer to 130m/min or 1300rpm. But that would probably go over the max feed speed on that machine, not sure tho. Maybe more passes, spring passes and/or lubrication is the answer in this case.
Happy New Year and thanks for the video.
You only need two tools for the job you showed in the video.
T1 Planing ,linear turning and thread release
T2 Threading
Must be really fun getting better with this new semi-miraculous technology.
You did great dude, well done for nailing it. Enjoy the journey ✌️
The perfect start in a new year. 1.30 am on my location.
Happy New Year to everyone.
Doing very nice Mr Adam. Whooshing you and yours a wonderful New Year and great adventures coming with your new shop. I’m enjoying and looking to see each and every video.
Your doing great, hang in there man.
Life is a learning experience everyday
First, calm down on the cut depths and feeds in your program. That machine isn’t rigid enough for what you’re programming.
Second, for the threading cycle. ALWAYS run your offset above finish diameter. Start with +0.015” and check it. Then run the cycle again at half that offset and check again. Then incrementally move the offset the amount left to hit your target for a last pass.
Never just trust the machine to hit the diameters right on all the time. Always run your offsets (wear comp) above your targets.
Also you had zero coolant while cutting. The material is obviously going to tear up while threading.
Vibration due to lack of spindle/turret rigidity ... I work on a mori seiki nl2500/700 dual spindle .
Try to reduce the threading passes to 2/3thou and put 2 spring pass at the end of cycle ... The grooving tool for thread relief try Also on that 2/3 thou per rev
For thread burr try to use full form thread insert : iscar , kennametal or sandvik are the best.
Nice job!
It’s been a long time since I’ve watched your vids. You have come a long way from your first vids so long ago lol!
It’s making how technology can make our lives so much easier and productivity can improve like this.
Nice job getting the concrete machine. It is definitely the way!
A topping threading insert would help take care of the hairs you keep filing off.
I use Iscar 16er 24 un ic908 for most threads.
Definatly. We only use that full profile inserts.
@@renetr6771 Correct, the one he is using is not suitable for a CNC. That is a poor program (GG, 49 years on the lathe)