Nice job on the video. You are a natural. I replaced the friction ring and the drive disc and your video was way more informative than the MTD user manual. Thanks!
Great video. You saved me a lot of guess work. Changed both belts, the friction wheel and both brass axle flanges. She's good as new now. Better than dropping $1400 for a new one
We had to shorten my neighbours cable today because his wheel is worn flat like a ribbon. I came here trying to find out how to change it and your video explained it so well I think I could do it with my eyes closed. Thanks from NS!
SIr Dony Boy, Thank you for your instructions on Friction Wheel Replacement. Your mechanical skills are superior. I have been watching your videos for years. Your skills are advanced and crush the Soy Boy playing Video games all day or the tired alcoholic that has low energy. I continue to be amazed at how you simplify the mechanical steps.
Another great video, I just changed the friction wheel with your help! My model requires replacement of the wheel whereas your video here shows just changing the rubber, still worked though! I really hope to convince the old man to buy new equipment, but until that day, thank-you for your great videos!
Great tuto , i have a Rato brand , the process is similar but the wheel holding the rubber does not split after removing 6 screws. I will know how to insert a new one when i visit the motor shop tomorrow.The mechanic gave me the trick : slap the whole thing on a hard surface holding the big part up .
Very helpful and well done videos, Don! I figured out the problem. I need to replace the auger belt. Thanks to your videos, I now can complete this task myself!
Thanks for this video, I was able to change mine easily with your step by step video.I find your videos very concise and clearly explained, the best out there.Keep up the great work.
@donyboy73 Now that I've seen your demo of what the friction disk/wheel does, it's clear that what's wrong is the belt(s), not the friction wheel: the drive wheels still work fine. This is terrific!
Donny boy 73 , After you showed me how to Do the fiction wheel , My set up is differant on my RANCH KING 8/28 I have my difter is on the right. Also a ring on my left side not a 9/16 bolt . Have done the Carb repair You are sure nice to tell us how things are done THANK YOU !!
@donyboy73 I had the front cover off to see if it was the belt but everything seemed in order. When I press down on the drive lever the circular metal mechanism seems to 'connect' adequately with the friction wheel (not sure of the terminology..flywheel?). I will attempt to tighten up the cable but it seems okay. I plan on doing an inspection regardless just to see what kind of shape it is in and to get more familiar with the parts you described in your video....much appreciated
I replaced the drive ring, the drive belt and tightened the cable after watching your videos at least a 100 times. I greased the shaft and sprocket and cleaned the carburetor. Started motor and auger works correctly but blower only barely moves. Will move forward and in reverse but very very slowly. Help
it's always great to see that when you come up with a problem.. we come up to youtube and find great tuturials on how to fix it... My snowblower won't go forward or backward when put in gear... any idea?
@Chimpwhich also check you cable adjustment, sometimes tightening the adjustment will correct ur problem. i am currently editing a video that shows how a friction disc works so come back and subscribe
I bet MTD could have not only put a LOT more rubber on their replacement disk, but also coud have made it out of rubber that doesn't crack like that. There was still plenty of meat on the old one. Only if it didn't crack, you'd get a bunch more years out of it. I wish someone would make extra high quality internal parts for old Snow blowers. I'd buy em for mine.
Thank you for your informative videos! I have a MTD 644 snowblower, and the wheels will not turn. I have replaced the bearings on the drive shaft that the friction wheel is on. This did not solve the problem. When you engage the belts, the whole works binds up. It will move, but not enough to actually move the snowblower. The friction wheel rubber looks good and is not cracked or damaged, and the cable is not loose. I am not sure if I should replace the friction wheel assembly, the friction disk wheel or both.??? Any suggestions? Thanks again!
Donnyboy73, your videos are very helpful. I, and others, watch them several times before attempting a repair. I have not, however, seen you deal with this problem. I have a MTD snowblower, with a friction disk set up like this video. What I can't tell is if the friction disk and friction disk bearing, are separate pieces or all one piece. When I shift my snowblower into reverse, then into forward gears, the bearing slides off of the friction disk. Is there something that keeps the bearing attach
donyboy73, I spent my day watching your snow thrower videos. They are very detailed and informative. Unfortunatly I have seen alot of MTD and not much Toro. I think I leaked oil on my friction disk. Can I expect the same stup in the Toro as the MTD? Darren Bellouny
Great video donyboy! I am trying to diagnose the problem w/ my MTD 12hp snowblower. It moves forward and backward, but the auger and blowing mechanism are not engaging. They are not jammed, as they move when turned by hand. Question: What is the function of the friction wheel?
Thanks for your video series! Yesterday, I caught a newspaper under the snow in the impeller, and I thought I could force it to go thru by just squeezing the augur handle and ended up with a smoking pulley box.. I thought it was ruined, but after seeing your friction wheel video, there seems to be hope ... that looks like the problem. Should I be on the lookout for something else? Thanks. Bill
As long as the shifter is moved in a direction (forward) that requires the bearing to push the friction disk along the fixed bar, it is ok. When you move the shift lever the opposite direction, it requires the bearing to pull the friction disk, and thats when the bearing assembly slides off of the friction disk shaft. Any help would be appreciated. Again, thanks for the service you perform, as you are a wealth of information. Big Mike..Im not sure where to send the photos
Hmmm I'm working on this on an older MTD blower and the left side shaft bearing, the one you are working on at 3:00 in this video, is completely jammed on. I tried hitting it pretty hard with a large hammer and it just won't budge. I'm afraid to hit it any harder.
Thanks for any information you can provide. It appears no one stocks that piece, nor can they tell me by the pictures, if there is something that.connects the disk to the bearing.
This was real good to know. But does it allways slike out on that side (the bolt) (I see you slide it out the left side and then winkle it outto right. Let me know if all MTD are like that?
Great videos my friend, thanks for making them. Say, when I was at the local rental and repair shop they told me to drain the oil as well as use the plastic bag under the fuel cap before setting the blower on the end. do you also do that? I know from an experience with a Yamaha 4 stroke outboard that with some engines the oil will run into cylinders and cause a hydraulic lock which mimics seizing. Taking out the spark plugs and turning the engine over with the starter cord clears the oil ou
I just considered this a good time to change the oil! (a cheap investment on keeping my 20 year old machine going) Gas tank was only half full so it didn't leak out of the cap.
hello I have 2004 yard man made by MTD. the friction wheel origina is a disk with the rubber friction disk seems glued on the ring. I bought the 735-0243A as it is on the PArt manual but the wheel is to small. I need a ring with close to 6'' OD & 5 9/16'' ID. I have a model 31AE993I401. I don't know what to do. Does it exist a kit to chage it to a 4 7/8'' rubber disk? thanks. And you make great videos. Patrick
I get to do this now on a 1977 MTD blower. I hope its the same parts, it looks more or less the same but turned 90 degrees, as the engine rotates the other way as well. It is also turned 90 degrees from newer units. Any further advice on this one?
I am watching you work on a sears 8.5/27 (1998) -friction wheel no problem ; - your video is Spot on !...except ... my shift component is to the R , friction wheel to the L ; I flipped it the other way , won't work...so flipped it back ( seems to be so in the schematic ) so know I see both wheel trying to turn , barely ! ...I did replace all 3 belts w NAPA belts - fit fine , but 'sloppy' ; when I engage lever , I can see the belt slipping, at very slow rpm all turns - my gut instinct is the tensioner pully on the main drive needs to be tighter - can this be adjusted ? It's a #247.888500. thx ! ko
Donny By 73, Are there tires available for a Gilson (Montgomery Wards) 35210B snowblower? If soo, can you tell me where to get them and what I would need. It looks like the axle and wheels are together.
Don, Great videos!. I thought that I could use this video to replace my friction wheel but my snowblower is a MTD 8hp with tracks instead of wheels. My snowblower's shaft has a sproket with a chain on it and the bearings on each end are held into the casing with 'c' clips.....even when the c clips are removed the shaft will not come out. Any thoughts? Thanks for all the great videos! Jim
Have you ever came across the rubber disc coming off as you are using the snow blower.? The first use this year it came off 3 times. Cant really see any issues but it worked for about 20 mins each time and then drive wheels wont turn. Opened bottom cover and belt is laying on hex shaft..It almost seems that when I pull the blower in reverse it jammed belt then driving forward it pulls the belt off. Not sure thought.
I just watched your video on how to replace the friction rubber wheel on the mdt snowblower. Well, I put it back together and now my snowblower will not go in reverse. It just propels forward. Also, when I go to press the chute handle it shuts my machine off. What in the heck did I do wrong? I also replaced an idler spring as well that had broken off. Maybe I goofed something there. Any ideas? Great video btw.
Whenever I go to replace these parts, the shaft is practically welded to the fiction disk. It takes an awful lot of pushing and pulling which would be an in and out motion if it slid freely. I often had to resort to hammering to finally get it off. Did you left this soak in penetrating oil, or something else?
Hi, I have an older Snapper mower that seems to have the same set up. The friction wheel is making contact with the rubber disc , however power is not being transfered to the wheels. What are some of the possible causes of this? Thx!!!
What is the part called that the friction disk rides on? On my unit, the friction disk is worn out, but so is the disk, plate, wheel that the friction disk engages. Do you have a video that shows how to replace that?
I need to change the friction wheel also but I have ez-steer and the manual says it need special tools to do this. Recommends bringing to tech. Can I change this myself 28" SNOW THROWER Model No. 247.887900
Excellent video. I've got an issue with the wheels not turning when in contact with the ground but spin at the correct speed when wheels are lifted off of the ground. I suspect it has something to do with the friction wheel. Just a quick suggestion: If you could begin your video with an explanation of what the friction wheel actually does that would bump up your video from an A to A+
![[TH]FFWS SEA 2024 Fall - Knockout Stage Day 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nsDmUQdWVtg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for making this video. It's guys like you that take the time to share their knowledge and expertise that make TH-cam a great resource.
LOL...seems like a simple enough job...however so many steps just to replace a piece of rubber! Great video...thanks!
Been following you for 4 years on You Tube. Saved me a lot of money.
Nice job on the video. You are a natural. I replaced the friction ring and the drive disc and your video was way more informative than the MTD user manual. Thanks!
thanks for the feedback
Great video. You saved me a lot of guess work. Changed both belts, the friction wheel and both brass axle flanges. She's good as new now. Better than dropping $1400 for a new one
Thank you for this video. I replaced my friction wheel with no problems thanks to you. Cheers!
We had to shorten my neighbours cable today because his wheel is worn flat like a ribbon. I came here trying to find out how to change it and your video explained it so well I think I could do it with my eyes closed. Thanks from NS!
SIr Dony Boy,
Thank you for your instructions on Friction Wheel Replacement. Your mechanical skills are superior. I have been watching your videos for years. Your skills are advanced and crush the Soy Boy playing Video games all day or the tired alcoholic that has low energy.
I continue to be amazed at how you simplify the mechanical steps.
Another great video, I just changed the friction wheel with your help! My model requires replacement of the wheel whereas your video here shows just changing the rubber, still worked though! I really hope to convince the old man to buy new equipment, but until that day, thank-you for your great videos!
Oh no! It's already August the 21st... I should hurry. Thanks for this video, it helps immensely.
Thank you very much sir, this demonstration was very useful, Michael from Montreal
Great tuto , i have a Rato brand , the process is similar but the wheel holding the rubber does not split after removing 6 screws. I will know how to insert a new one when i visit the motor shop tomorrow.The mechanic gave me the trick : slap the whole thing on a hard surface holding the big part up .
Also this snowblower has aTecumseh motor You are doing a GREAT JOB !! KEEP it UP !! Hope your wife is doing better .
Very helpful and well done videos, Don! I figured out the problem. I need to replace the auger belt. Thanks to your videos, I now can complete this task myself!
He never leaves anything out. I never have to guess what to do.!!!🤔🙂👀💪🇺🇸🎄
Ditto per all the positive comments. Excellent instructional video. Much appreciated. :)
Thanks for this video, I was able to change mine easily with your step by step video.I find your videos very concise and clearly explained, the best out there.Keep up the great work.
thanks steve, make sure you are subscribed
Great video. Exactly what I needed to do on my Snow Beast 36".
Oh no not the beast 😱
Unloosen is like unthawing . Good statement toward publiceducation.
Thanks once again Dony !
The beginning of the “GOAT”
this is an old video lol
@@donyboy73 I searched oldest ones. Still useful!
I do to , But !very useful for guys that don't know how to this stuff good reference video. Cheers JD
@donyboy73 Thank you. It was worn by the wheel just like you showed in the "frozen auger" video. That explains the smoke I got too. Thanks again.
@donyboy73 Now that I've seen your demo of what the friction disk/wheel does, it's clear that what's wrong is the belt(s), not the friction wheel: the drive wheels still work fine. This is terrific!
thanks, i will keep the lighting in mind for my next videos, thanks for the tip
Donny boy 73 , After you showed me how to Do the fiction wheel , My set up is differant on my RANCH KING 8/28 I have my difter is on the right. Also a ring on my left side not a 9/16 bolt . Have done the Carb repair You are sure nice to tell us how things are done THANK YOU !!
I like the way you show to me . how it work thank !!!
@donyboy73
I had the front cover off to see if it was the belt but everything seemed in order. When I press down on the drive lever the circular metal mechanism seems to 'connect' adequately with the friction wheel (not sure of the terminology..flywheel?). I will attempt to tighten up the cable but it seems okay. I plan on doing an inspection regardless just to see what kind of shape it is in and to get more familiar with the parts you described in your video....much appreciated
Thank you.
@originalxaxx you may have to replace the auger belts
very informative thank you
I replaced the drive ring, the drive belt and tightened the cable after watching your videos at least a 100 times. I greased the shaft and sprocket and cleaned the carburetor. Started motor and auger works correctly but blower only barely moves. Will move forward and in reverse but very very slowly. Help
who is still here?
@tnnrwTechHelp you can buy it at any small engine shop
@Trapper100 just filmed the shift lever repair today, i just have to edit it and it should be up next week
Good video thanks:)
it's always great to see that when you come up with a problem.. we come up to youtube and find great tuturials on how to fix it... My snowblower won't go forward or backward when put in gear... any idea?
@Chimpwhich also check you cable adjustment, sometimes tightening the adjustment will correct ur problem. i am currently editing a video that shows how a friction disc works so come back and subscribe
Great video. Many thanks.
I bet MTD could have not only put a LOT more rubber on their replacement disk, but also coud have made it out of rubber that doesn't crack like that. There was still plenty of meat on the old one. Only if it didn't crack, you'd get a bunch more years out of it. I wish someone would make extra high quality internal parts for old Snow blowers. I'd buy em for mine.
@dodgeramguy85 could be, sometimes what you need to do is adjust the linkage
donyboy73 it was time anyway.
Cracked and needed to do a how to video.
Anything is better than hockey stick tape.
Saved me again donyboy73!
@Jnkdog THANK YOU
Thank you for your informative videos! I have a MTD 644 snowblower, and the wheels will not turn. I have replaced the bearings on the drive shaft that the friction wheel is on. This did not solve the problem. When you engage the belts, the whole works binds up. It will move, but not enough to actually move the snowblower. The friction wheel rubber looks good and is not cracked or damaged, and the cable is not loose. I am not sure if I should replace the friction wheel assembly, the friction disk wheel or both.??? Any suggestions? Thanks again!
good way to clean an oily disc and drive ring is with a rag and straight gas
Donnyboy73, your videos are very helpful. I, and others, watch them several times before attempting a repair. I have not, however, seen you deal with this problem. I have a MTD snowblower, with a friction disk set up like this video. What I can't tell is if the friction disk and friction disk bearing, are separate pieces or all one piece. When I shift my snowblower into reverse, then into forward gears, the bearing slides off of the friction disk. Is there something that keeps the bearing attach
Ok thx. Will let you know how it goes.
donyboy73,
I spent my day watching your snow thrower videos. They are very detailed and informative. Unfortunatly I have seen alot of MTD and not much Toro. I think I leaked oil on my friction disk. Can I expect the same stup in the Toro as the MTD?
Darren Bellouny
Great video donyboy! I am trying to diagnose the problem w/ my MTD 12hp snowblower. It moves forward and backward, but the auger and blowing mechanism are not engaging. They are not jammed, as they move when turned by hand. Question: What is the function of the friction wheel?
When you calibrate do you have to know where a stud is so as you move the Walabot across a stud and also wher no stud is to calibrate it?
Thanks for your video series! Yesterday, I caught a newspaper under the snow in the impeller, and I thought I could force it to go thru by just squeezing the augur handle and ended up with a smoking pulley box.. I thought it was ruined, but after seeing your friction wheel video, there seems to be hope ... that looks like the problem. Should I be on the lookout for something else? Thanks. Bill
As long as the shifter is moved in a direction (forward) that requires the bearing to push the friction disk along the fixed bar, it is ok. When you move the shift lever the opposite direction, it requires the bearing to pull the friction disk, and thats when the bearing assembly slides off of the friction disk shaft. Any help would be appreciated. Again, thanks for the service you perform, as you are a wealth of information. Big Mike..Im not sure where to send the photos
@tnnrwTechHelp specifically an MTD one for this machine in the video
Hmmm I'm working on this on an older MTD blower and the left side shaft bearing, the one you are working on at 3:00 in this video, is completely jammed on. I tried hitting it pretty hard with a large hammer and it just won't budge. I'm afraid to hit it any harder.
I need to do this on my snowblower. I've been spraying belt dressing on it for several years, but it is in worse shape than the one you replaced.
Thanks for any information you can provide. It appears no one stocks that piece, nor can they tell me by the pictures, if there is something that.connects the disk to the bearing.
could be the belt or the cable needs to be adjusted to add more tension
thanks, I will try that. Great Videos.
the metal plate or disc is purchased with bearing
This was real good to know. But does it allways slike out on that side (the bolt) (I see you slide it out the left side and then winkle it outto right. Let me know if all MTD are like that?
i just wrapped my friction wheel with hockey tape. its been 3 seasons now without a problem
Ghetto Fix.
Replace it and ArmourAll it after use.
Wipe it with gas before use and protect again for storage.
Eh Yank?
I have got to do this to my old Ariens snowblower, there is a chunk about 2" long missing from the drive
disc.
Great videos my friend, thanks for making them. Say, when I was at the local rental and repair shop they told me to drain the oil as well as use the plastic bag under the fuel cap before setting the blower on the end. do you also do that? I know from an experience with a Yamaha 4 stroke outboard that with some engines the oil will run into cylinders and cause a hydraulic lock which mimics seizing. Taking out the spark plugs and turning the engine over with the starter cord clears the oil ou
I just considered this a good time to change the oil! (a cheap investment on keeping my 20 year old machine going) Gas tank was only half full so it didn't leak out of the cap.
hello I have 2004 yard man made by MTD. the friction wheel origina is a disk with the rubber friction disk seems glued on the ring. I bought the 735-0243A as it is on the PArt manual but the wheel is to small. I need a ring with close to 6'' OD & 5 9/16'' ID. I have a model 31AE993I401. I don't know what to do. Does it exist a kit to chage it to a 4 7/8'' rubber disk? thanks. And you make great videos.
Patrick
I get to do this now on a 1977 MTD blower. I hope its the same parts, it looks more or less the same but turned 90 degrees, as the engine rotates the other way as well. It is also turned 90 degrees from newer units. Any further advice on this one?
I have to do that to my older snowblower it’s a 24 inch MTD . I went on there website and no longer make parts
I am watching you work on a sears 8.5/27 (1998) -friction wheel no problem ; - your video is Spot on !...except ...
my shift component is to the R , friction wheel to the L ; I flipped it the other way , won't work...so flipped it back ( seems to be so in the schematic )
so know I see both wheel trying to turn , barely ! ...I did replace all 3 belts w NAPA belts - fit fine , but 'sloppy' ; when I engage lever , I can see the belt slipping, at very slow rpm all turns - my gut instinct is the tensioner pully on the main drive needs to be tighter - can this be adjusted ?
It's a #247.888500. thx ! ko
The good old days.
I have to replace mine and the snowblower is 20 years old. Should I replace the entire assembly with the bearing instead of just the rubber?
thanks ,donyboy73 good video
Will a bad friction disc walk to the right, other side of plate when it engages? (Put some reverse gears into forward)
thanks for the video
thank you for show video my snowblower walk slowly, I want replace friction disc rubber, do you know where can i buy it?
Donny By 73, Are there tires available for a Gilson (Montgomery Wards) 35210B snowblower? If soo, can you tell me where to get them and what I would need. It looks like the axle and wheels are together.
@b1pgke22 thank you sir
Don, Great videos!. I thought that I could use this video to replace my friction wheel but my snowblower is a MTD 8hp with tracks instead of wheels. My snowblower's shaft has a sproket with a chain on it and the bearings on each end are held into the casing with 'c' clips.....even when the c clips are removed the shaft will not come out. Any thoughts? Thanks for all the great videos! Jim
what do you do if the bearing is stuck to the shaft
Thank you!
Have you ever came across the rubber disc coming off as you are using the snow blower.? The first use this year it came off 3 times. Cant really see any issues but it worked for about 20 mins each time and then drive wheels wont turn. Opened bottom cover and belt is laying on hex shaft..It almost seems that when I pull the blower in reverse it jammed belt then driving forward it pulls the belt off. Not sure thought.
I replace the rubber disc when it does that
at 5:20 in this vid the part you see in my hands is one piece and includes the bearing
I just watched your video on how to replace the friction rubber wheel on the mdt snowblower. Well, I put it back together and now my snowblower will not go in reverse. It just propels forward. Also, when I go to press the chute handle it shuts my machine off. What in the heck did I do wrong? I also replaced an idler spring as well that had broken off. Maybe I goofed something there. Any ideas? Great video btw.
Whenever I go to replace these parts, the shaft is practically welded to the fiction disk. It takes an awful lot of pushing and pulling which would be an in and out motion if it slid freely. I often had to resort to hammering to finally get it off. Did you left this soak in penetrating oil, or something else?
Hi, I have an older Snapper mower that seems to have the same set up. The friction wheel is making contact with the rubber disc , however power is not being transfered to the wheels. What are some of the possible causes of this? Thx!!!
What is the part called that the friction disk rides on? On my unit, the friction disk is worn out, but so is the disk, plate, wheel that the friction disk engages. Do you have a video that shows how to replace that?
the disc is separate, i would have to see pics to be sure what you mean
NIce video, but finding the reple3cement r4ubber is a bear.... Might be an idea to suggest where to get parts.
I need to change the friction wheel also but I have ez-steer and the manual says it need special tools to do this. Recommends bringing to tech. Can I change this myself
28" SNOW THROWER
Model No. 247.887900
1:14 Did he say "un-loosen"? But thanks for the good informative video!
so you "hold your unit in your hands then slide the shaft out" ? @ 3:17
@megachallenged not on this snowblower
first time I hear that! lol
Excellent video. I've got an issue with the wheels not turning when in contact with the ground but spin at the correct speed when wheels are lifted off of the ground. I suspect it has something to do with the friction wheel. Just a quick suggestion: If you could begin your video with an explanation of what the friction wheel actually does that would bump up your video from an A to A+
The wheel turns the aluminum dics
about how old is this snowblower and does this concept the same for mtd yardmachine
+slipperman6770 about 10 years old and yes it's the same as yard machine
Why would you not take the wheels off first?
@jpmcnam58 i would have to see it
Is this why my snow blower wont work in 1st and barely in 2nd?
I forgot it's a powermax 1028LE 2004 without the independent rear wheels.
old one
@cegglestn send me a picture of it , pm me ur email