Ram Promaster: CV Axle Replacement - Start to Finish Video. One man struggles so you don't have to!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- Long and boring but detailed and useful video. You'll thank me, if you are rolling around in the driveway trying to figure out how to get the goddamn axles out!
I purchased a TRQ CV Axle for my passenger side. I'm replacing my struts in addition t my inner and outer tie rods! May as well since I'm already there... Thanks for all the informative and entertaining videos!!!
50 years from now some kid in a reggea band will buy an antique promaster, and he’ll watch these videos to see how the ancients did it.
I wish I lived near your shop . Thank you kind Sir .
I had my passenger CV axel replaced 2 years ago. 👍 Rock on 🙂
This is very useful, thanks. I am unable to get it off by hammering though, so I cut the boot and am going to try reinserting the old axle with some vise grips ro get it out as I saw in another video.
It seems like you could benefit from some more tools though, like a slide hammer. Also, maybe you could get a heavy weight and either attach the pry bar to it or use a rachet strap between it and the end of the pry bar amd tighten down so you dont have to weigh the pry bar while trying to do other things with your hands? Or maybe put an attachment point on your floor, a come along on the attachment point, and then apply pressure to the pry bar with that.
I really appreciate your knowledge and your techniques since I dont have many specialized tools myself, but it seems like you do some things in really difficult ways for being a mechanic shop
@@christophberenotto my own laziness is my worst enemy. Removing the sway bar links is a better option, but i prefer to leave them undisturbed and just struggle!
Worked perfectly for me .. Thank you!! But yes you did talk a lot ..LoL😂😂 but you're on point Brother!
Hope all is well for you Kip. Looks like you could be using some extra help around the shop but at the same time good help seems hard to come by.
Very true!
yeah no sh*t. Why cant people do things anymore? I blame taking auto shop out of most schools.
@@robertogonzalez5018 Out with shop classes and in with the marxist college prep classes.
Help! I got everything without much difficulty or finger loss till removal at the intermediate shaft. I’ve even tried an air hammer and it’s not moving. It’s a diesel so I’m guessing some extra PIA was sprinkled on the axles. Anyone have experience with this? Thank you in advance and up till now this has been a PG rated task.
Should be basically the same, as far as the intermediate shaft is concerned. I know this because early on I was given the wrong part - the diesel version is almost identical, but not interchangeable.
You can take the passenger axle and intermediate shaft out together, split them on the bench. Or you could just buy a new shaft, but both new pieces back in.
My kid asked once what is that dad ? It’s a tie rod popper thing ! Told him not to forget that too …. Very important!
Perfect timing on this video for sure
Thank you Kip! A lot of friends have RV builds based on the 159 ext. which built out are close to 10k lb and often very far from home. In these situations would you prefer replacing with OEM or a specific brand to minimize the chance of having to replace these again in 2-3 years? Thank You.
Tough call. The OE axle is the highest quality, but reman axles are just rebuilt OE axles. To date, we havent seen aftermarket axles fail no matter how cheap the price. My feeling is if you are capable of doing the job yourself, its ok to cheap out. If you are paying someone, the OE may be warranted.
Do any of your videos show the removal of the intermediate shaft? Ive been hammering on my passenger side cv axle for days and will not move at all. I've tried with a chisel, slide hammer, etc. And absolutely no movement. I cutt off the boot to try the reinsertion plus vise grip trick but somehow I cant get the old one back into the interior cv cup. I dont know what else to do and I'm stranded. Thanks for any advice!
Did we talk about this already? Once the 3 bolts that hold it to the block are out, it should slide right out of the trans. If for some reason you can't get the intermediate shaft to separate from the axle, that shaft is common to 2014-up minivans and it's like $75. New axle, new shaft, no sweat.
@@promastersonly1419 thanks so much, I'll try that. I just didn't know if there was another circlip holding that into the transmission or anything special to know before pulling on it
Thanks for the video and giving me a headstart on this project. Unfortunately, I could not get the leverage that you were getting to pull the lower control arm down and free the ball joint. What is the “official“ way of doing this? Think I might undo the bolts holding the swaybar link and ball joint to the lower control arm, remount the tire, lower the car, so the hub and lower control arm separate and then just remove the ball completely. EDIT: That was a stupid idea.
PS, what are the shop hours for this job?
Alldata says 1.2 hours for both ball joints. I think that's low, and I would bill it at 1 hr per side. Unbolting the sway bar stab links will help, but the easiest way is to have a big ass bar like I have in the video. Harbor Freight sells a big spud bar that fits that opening in the control arm.
@@promastersonly1419 Ok thanks. For 1 hour per side, assuming typical shop rates here in LA ($150/hr?) I definitely would have "paid someone else to do this goddamn job" (couldnt find a tire shop to even quote me). Who knows what they would have charged me for the axles though... I got 2 aftermarket ones for under $200. Anyway, yeah I figured out to unbolt the sway bar link and used a crow bar in between the sway bar and control arm using the sway bar as my friend rather than trying to fight it. I definitely needed another person to help line those three damn bolts for the ball joints during reassembly through. Ugh. Anyway, it's done now and no more vibration while accelerating (why the hell was this happening on a 2021 anyway. CV joints had no play, boots intact etc?!?).
I appreciate your video and it's also good to know that Im not the only one talking like that during a job. "Whose you're goddamn daddy?"
@@robertogonzalez5018 I love a happy ending.
I'm quite sure that the torque value of the axle nut is in direct relation to the bearings on the front and making everything last and operate as the should.
I live on the outside radius of a sharp turn. I find nice used impact sockets and small wrenches a few times a year on the road at the curb. Your 18mm is out there somewhere on the road.
We will all be reunited in the afterlife with our lost sockets, lighters, and socks.
@@promastersonly1419 🤣🤣🤣
Timely video....I have a 2018 ProMaster 3500 Hightop extended van that Winnebago rebranded as a Travato....then I "modified" the van again by going to VanWorks in Salt Lake City, UT and had them do a 3 inch lift...at that time they said they could not do a fulll 3" lift on the front because the van had "aftermarket" CV axles that were slightly shorter than the factory axles they were expecting to find. Test time- 1. Are some axles shorter than others? 2. I have since had a slight vibration when accelerating, possibly from the 2.5" lift they did on the front or possibly from the fact the van now has 105,000 miles......so.....how long should cv axles last and would you recommend or is it possible to get slightly longer cradles to reduce or eliminate vibration when under power..??
I’m impressed. Most people who install anything greater than a 1” report snapping axles constantly.
SFAIK, new or reman axles all start life as factory axles. They should all be the same length, and even if they werent it shouldnt matter, since they will just engage slightly less in the transmission. Normally, the plunge in maybe 1.25”. Having only 1” wouldnt really affect strength, I dont think.
@@promastersonly1419 Thanks, I always accelerate slowly to put as little stress on it as possible and the vibration goes away when not under heavy load.
Another great vid! Anyone know how long Amazon drives their Promasters until they auction them off?
excellent video Kip!
Thanks. Good info, but shitty production values.
Question. How come no gear fluid came out when you pulled the axle out? Two weeks ago when I did mine a crap ton of fluid spilled on the driveway cause I wasn't expecting any. Also, when re-seating it, is there any special alignment I need to be aware of?
Sometimes it leaks, sometimes it doesnt. This van was about 1/2 qt low on fluid, which may explain it.
In theory, you literally cant reinstall the axkes wrong since you wouldnt be able to get the ball joint back together unless the axle is fully seated. In practice, it’s obvious when they are in fully and obvious when they arent.
trying to re-boot a passenger CV axle. I got it off - thanks your videos, but can't figure out how to dissemble it. the plunger has its edges rolled in so the axle won't come out. any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. thanks!
Nope. With an autozone axle being pretty cheap, I’ve never bothered to try to rebuild or reboot them. Let me know how it works out.
@@promastersonly1419 i sure will.
hesitant to use aftermarket, especially such critical components like axles. nevertheless, i followed your advice and got Duralast - curious how long they last?
We've installed probably 20 of them and haven't had any issues. The OE is probably superior, but there's no good way to know if they are superior enough to justify the price/availability difference. @@alexanderkasyanov4946
I have a 2019 promaster that a travato with a 3 inch lift. The cv boot is leaking and I will need to replace it. Is there any thing better than oem?
OEM is pretty much the best. We use much cheaper rebuilt axles all the time. But there have been dozens of reports of lifted vans continually snapping axles. Such that I recommend against anything more than a 1" lift. If it were me, I'd just use what they sell at Autozone or O'Reillys, since it will have a warranty and if it turns out this van is going to snap an axle every 20,000 miles, you'll want that parts warranty.
Thanks I think the tech damage it as I had a transmission put in. During the recall they over filled it. I would have put a 1.5 inch lift but it did not exist when I did it. Thanks for your help. P.S. I have 80,000+ miles and I drive like an old man.
Does passenger side come out of the intermediate shaft the same on promaster 2500 diesel 3.0 L
@@ams7159 yes. Takes a good yank with a prybar, but it will release from the intermediate shaft.
That tie rod end your puller is great but it is easily done with pry bar leverage up then proper dead blow hammer to where you were hitting it, cake that way on mine… old man taught me that.
Good tip. But I paid $7 for the ball joint puller and want to my money’s worth!
Yep puller is good, and one man operation. With the pry bar and mallet it’s easier with two people, one for each tool. Hope this helps folks without the puller not struggle with tie rods is all!
@@raleighleslie2085 I spy a future video topic in this!
Yeah, but I when I did that I was on my side and when I took a wack at it, I missed and hit the threads on the tie rod and ruined my day. You can borrow the puller he used from any auto parts store... worth it.
Any chance you have a transmission R&R video kicking around somewhere?
This video was supposed to be it, since I was replacing a flexplate. Eventually, I'll have a full transmission start-to-finish to film. Once you get the axles out, it's just starter, flexplate bolts, support the engine from below, support trans from below (tricky because it's not flat) then remove the lower half of the bellhousing bolts, remove the upper trans mount and rear biscuit mount, then remove the upper half of the bellhousing bolts. There's a spot to pry from a little below the starter, and it separates and comes out. If it's coming all the way out, shift cable, 3 trans sensors, big front trans plug, and cooling lines need to come off.
Important on the way back into the tranny the gap in the circlip should be facing down… there is an illustration on this on the part on rock auto installation instructions. With the gap in the circlip facing down should be easy to get the axle to pop back into the tranny.
I just posted a question about any special alignment needed when re-seating axle. Can you share the info you have? Thanks.
That’s a great tip, havent ever heard that one. So far, all the axles have reseates either by hand or with the slightest tap from a deadblow. I assumed the circlip is beveled to allow it to do that.
Hi, I have a question. My 2017 2500 promaster turns off like if have a misfire and turn off in 2 seconds when I shift to drive, but when I shift to reverse or on the park, works well, you have an idea?
Hard to say, but it suggests the engine moves when it shifts, and pulls on wiring, interrupting power somewhere. First place I’d look is the engine ground off the transmission. I have a video on it.
I learned that I hope I never have to do this to my van😮 But if I do, get some heavy weight help.
BTW this van has lived in Texas and not the rust bucket I mean belt!
I think the universe had a hand in the timing of this video. I'm researching why my promaster is shaking only when i'm accelerating above 50 mph, but then is fine coasting above 50. From what I'm seeing the consensus is either cv axle or a transmission issue.
Mine did the same. Over 50. Steering shimmy, floor vibration. Let off, it smoothed out.
Had new axles installed & it's fine now.
Almost certainly an axle.
@@promastersonly1419 Kip, is there anyone you could recommend to work on it in the MA/RI/CT area?
@@jenniferl350 no contacts out that way, sorry.
@@johnwren3976 Did you use OEM or aftermarket?
Let me know what videos you will do next, I am willing to bring my vehicle in so you can do the work on it to show it
I have a long list of videos to make. Upcoming are basic ones - how to jack up the van, how to swap a battery.
I look forward to having to do this to my van, ugh.
Armed with this video, it wont be so bad. Axles go randomly - can be 50k or 500k. All you can really do is inspect the boots periodically.
Everything goes great until you wack the tie rod threads, tweak the spindle threads during reassembly and curse the day you had to realign the 3 ball joint bolts. Oh and, like an idiot, I pulled the drivers side axle too far out and separated the joint. That was fun trying to put back together on my brand new axle. fml. Pay the shop... start a go fund me lol
@@robertogonzalez5018 Welcome to my world! An endless river of suck!
@@robertogonzalez5018 i took a hammer and punch and just spun my lower ball joint till the holes lined up. since it rotates there is no danger of harm
I did a while ago... what a pain
Agreed!
If you wouldn’t have put the pan there it would have pissed everywhere for sure 🙄
At 19:20, please, for the love of God, disconnect the sway bar link.
Sooo much easier, less struggle.
Yes and no. Those links like to make life miserable, i prefer to leave them untouched if possible.