My problem with the cable was if the fire wall adjuster was set to far out the tension would be more by the wall than the bottom if that makes sense. I have an SVE cable that I bought back in 2016 and adjusted it on the fork more than the fire wall and haven't broken a cable since but that's my experience. I went through 4 cables to understand that.
Hey Danny? I find it hard to turn the firewall adjuster without the MM whole cable housing also turning with it because of that rubber bushing thats on the cable portion that goes into the firewall adjuster. Is it ok to remove that bushing? seems like the cable would have alot of wiggle room but do/did you have a similar issue?
It’s hard to move because of the pressure on the cable. It’s easier to remove the cable at the clutch fork, turn the firewall adjuster country clockwise to open, then adjust it inward so the pressure is getting easier rather than lighter
I just had my clutch cable go out on me. I replaced it a long time ago it did the same thing. It lasted about 10 year, problem is now, they discontinued the oem cable. I called maximum Motorsports they told me a 5 month backorder on their cables. I ordered the mm from a.m. yesterday. I have the fiore adjuster and quadrant, hopefully it'll work.
That's what I was hoping. They never called me back. I figured I could make up the difference with the firewall adjuster or the other hook on the quadrant. Is this one longer or shorter than the factory cable?
The cable that was on my Cobra when I got it was worn out and the pedal pressure was really stiff. I needed an adjustable one after going with the RTX clutch and went with a UPR adjustable and to this point it’s been awesome. I was not aware the ford racing one was adjustable but the UPR one has been great
@@dylanluna4021 If it’s happened 3 times it’s something other than the brand of cable making it snap. I had an RTX with the upr adjustable and firewall adjuster. Never had any issues while I had it
Im routing my MM cable the same way and there is still way too much slack even with the Spacer on the cable with MM Quadrant. May go with a Ford Performancr adjustable cable
It should have the c clip to help hold the cable in place. I would get a replacement. It could be the clutch fork is stiff from it being on the retainer sleeve and worn without grease
Random throttle cable question. With the pedal to the floor (engine off), I noticed the throttle isn’t completely touching/coming into contact with the throttle body stop. Is this normal? It’s like 1/8 inch from contact. Lemme know what your thoughts are or if yours is the same.
Awesome video However I got something non related, , , I have a pretty good size heat exchanger, I’m wanting to add dual fans to it, they come with a harness and everything , I’m wondering how this is gonna hook up Don’t want them to come on when radiator fans come on I think they would need to come on sooner than that Or do they stay on? I doubt that, or do you toggle switch them or what? Thanks in advance
Mine has the wiring to add it to a relay. I found out the previous owner never wired them and I’m glad he didn’t because it says to tap into the intercooler lines and I’m going to go to a relay and it’s own switch someday. th-cam.com/video/ICu7WUSBYeQ/w-d-xo.html
Personally, I like having the pedal feel. Being you have hydraulic pressure in place you really have to shim it properly so it doesn’t push too hard and get the proper travel. The shim goes on behind the bearing but the process is similar, so see my bearing spacing video (it would just be on the slave cylinder vs a pivot ball stud th-cam.com/video/IceR-zPpvns/w-d-xo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks! I called Aamco to get their opinion. They said they don’t recommend it when using race clutches because the master/slave cylinders can fail when putting too much pressure on them. Idk I have a spec stage 3. Ported stiegemeier (stage 6). Pushing 530whp, 579tq so need a clutch strong enough that doesn’t feel like pushing down 100lbs. You can imagine how that could slow down the 1/4 mile time 😢
Yeah, probably the misalignment was causing it to catch on the additional clutch quadrant hook. It had a triple hook. I just replaced it with a fiore single hook. I noticed it was missing the washers when I installed it since I did the washers on my GT recently with the full MM kit. This has been this way since the previous owner installed it and it finally gave away.
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Nice video as always Danny. I like to oil the cable first before install. It really goes a long way for smoothness
My problem with the cable was if the fire wall adjuster was set to far out the tension would be more by the wall than the bottom if that makes sense. I have an SVE cable that I bought back in 2016 and adjusted it on the fork more than the fire wall and haven't broken a cable since but that's my experience. I went through 4 cables to understand that.
I always say..”if it’s got tits or wheels…it’s going to give you problems “…🤣🤣
fantastic video! great video shots! Sweet Cobra!
Hey Danny? I find it hard to turn the firewall adjuster without the MM whole cable housing also turning with it because of that rubber bushing thats on the cable portion that goes into the firewall adjuster. Is it ok to remove that bushing? seems like the cable would have alot of wiggle room but do/did you have a similar issue?
It’s hard to move because of the pressure on the cable. It’s easier to remove the cable at the clutch fork, turn the firewall adjuster country clockwise to open, then adjust it inward so the pressure is getting easier rather than lighter
I just had my clutch cable go out on me. I replaced it a long time ago it did the same thing. It lasted about 10 year, problem is now, they discontinued the oem cable. I called maximum Motorsports they told me a 5 month backorder on their cables. I ordered the mm from a.m. yesterday. I have the fiore adjuster and quadrant, hopefully it'll work.
I actually bought a fiore clutch quadrant and put it in the car with this and it worked just fine. The firewall adjuster should be about the same
That's what I was hoping. They never called me back. I figured I could make up the difference with the firewall adjuster or the other hook on the quadrant. Is this one longer or shorter than the factory cable?
Great channel btw!
The cable that was on my Cobra when I got it was worn out and the pedal pressure was really stiff. I needed an adjustable one after going with the RTX clutch and went with a UPR adjustable and to this point it’s been awesome. I was not aware the ford racing one was adjustable but the UPR one has been great
My upr snapped
@@dylanluna4021 Mine didn’t. Should have been adjusted correctly then
@@Lethal_Venom it was… my clutch too heavy I’m assuming it’s happened 3 times , bbk cable, oem, upr
@@dylanluna4021 If it’s happened 3 times it’s something other than the brand of cable making it snap. I had an RTX with the upr adjustable and firewall adjuster. Never had any issues while I had it
That maximum motor sport is for mustangs with longtube headers to avoid heating burning the cable
Im routing my MM cable the same way and there is still way too much slack even with the Spacer on the cable with MM Quadrant. May go with a Ford Performancr adjustable cable
What cable do you recommend now as maximum motorsports seems to no longer make it?
I don’t have the c clip. Mine is like a black washer all the way around. 98 gt. Kinda lost on that part
My fork doesn’t move that easy either. Could it not be on the stud correctly?
It should have the c clip to help hold the cable in place. I would get a replacement.
It could be the clutch fork is stiff from it being on the retainer sleeve and worn without grease
Random throttle cable question. With the pedal to the floor (engine off), I noticed the throttle isn’t completely touching/coming into contact with the throttle body stop. Is this normal? It’s like 1/8 inch from contact. Lemme know what your thoughts are or if yours is the same.
I generally hear the stop click when the pedal is pushed all the way. They do stretch over time, so a new cable wouldn’t hurt
Good 👂 Ear... Can u feel it on the pedal as well? Love your Mustang content 👍🏽...
Yeah, it felt like it was binding up pretty bad and about to snap
I thought maximum doesn’t offer it anymore either
I have heard it is only in their kits and maybe not even that anymore. They were using the same supplier ford used in the beginning
We really need these again the cheap Chinese aftermarket’s snap like nothing I broke 3 already yet my ford cable is going strong since 2010
Should I push the fork in when putting the cable back on? My shit squeaking and it wasn’t doing this before I had to take it off for engine swap.
There should be slight pressure to get the cable on th-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=R6xXgjZVq75h0T1r
th-cam.com/video/IceR-zPpvns/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vCLUg_ZHXcOwVDr7
Awesome video
However I got something non related, , ,
I have a pretty good size heat exchanger, I’m wanting to add dual fans to it, they come with a harness and everything , I’m wondering how this is gonna hook up
Don’t want them to come on when radiator fans come on I think they would need to come on sooner than that
Or do they stay on? I doubt that, or do you toggle switch them or what? Thanks in advance
Mine has the wiring to add it to a relay. I found out the previous owner never wired them and I’m glad he didn’t because it says to tap into the intercooler lines and I’m going to go to a relay and it’s own switch someday. th-cam.com/video/ICu7WUSBYeQ/w-d-xo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage see my car didn’t come with a supercharger so it has a relay added for the intercooler pump
What are your thoughts on a hydraulic clutch conversion kit? My spec stage 3 is so heavy and it really slows down the shifts.
Personally, I like having the pedal feel. Being you have hydraulic pressure in place you really have to shim it properly so it doesn’t push too hard and get the proper travel. The shim goes on behind the bearing but the process is similar, so see my bearing spacing video (it would just be on the slave cylinder vs a pivot ball stud th-cam.com/video/IceR-zPpvns/w-d-xo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks! I called Aamco to get their opinion. They said they don’t recommend it when using race clutches because the master/slave cylinders can fail when putting too much pressure on them. Idk I have a spec stage 3. Ported stiegemeier (stage 6). Pushing 530whp, 579tq so need a clutch strong enough that doesn’t feel like pushing down 100lbs. You can imagine how that could slow down the 1/4 mile time 😢
You shredded that cable because you dont have the proper washers in the quadrant is not aligned right
Yeah, probably the misalignment was causing it to catch on the additional clutch quadrant hook. It had a triple hook. I just replaced it with a fiore single hook. I noticed it was missing the washers when I installed it since I did the washers on my GT recently with the full MM kit. This has been this way since the previous owner installed it and it finally gave away.