I can't thank you enough, guy. Adding this spring got rid of the clutch chatter that I was hearing. Especially when I had just replaced the clutch. I couldn't believe that this method worked. THANK YOU SO MUCH. SIMPLY INGENIOUS!
I didn't know they made a kit to do that. I'm running a BBK cable with a firewall adjuster. I just rigged up mine with a piece of tubing for the spacer and used washers with a couple of pistol recoil springs I had lying around.
Thanks for all the very concise and informative video's you have put out on these Mustangs. I often use them as a reference. Question,I adjusted my clutch at the firewall and now have the floppy pedal.I also noticed my cruise control stopped working. Is there a contact switch on the clutch pedal for the cruise? I'am going to try the spring mod in the above video and see if it helps.
The clutch cable may be stretched, and a clutch quadrant would be useful to tighten it all back up. If it already has the firewall adjuster, it may need to be tightened. I’ll put a link to that below. As for the cruse control, it’s all up on the top of the engine near the throttle body. You can see if the little plastic piece has come off. Follow the cable back from the throttle body and you’ll find it th-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7cmd56vgQXJQ1WjI
Thanks,I have a new cable and quadrant I'm going to go over everything when I install the spring down on the cable. I will look under the hood for the cruise problem.
Thank you, for the video but i installed a steeda clutch cable,quadrant, and firewall adjuster, the cable gives the clutch pedal no freeplay but when put into gear the car engages almost to the point where i let the pedal go
I had the same issue with the same setup. 1. Adjust the firewall adjuster further out to drop the engagement point lower, you're gonna have to pull the heck out of the cable to really adjust it correctly. 2. It might be time to consider a clutch replacement, because with a firewall adjuster it's possible keep adjusting it until you wear all the way through the clutch faces.
Thanks Danny I was freakin out a bit when my clutch pedal started vibrating at low rpm driving. I’m thinking the worst, like are my input shaft & pilot bearings going out and making my throw out bearing vibrate and all the way up to the clutch pedal??? Call me lazy but I just don’t really want to spend my weekend replacing stuff that ain’t broke so glad to know that’s all it is. Thanks again.
Mitch I have this pretty well dialed in for the mach 1. No more clutch pedal vibration, but I think my pivot ball where the clutch fork attaches is worn out. I hear ya, just living with the small vibration at 2,500 cause I’m not excited about pulling the trans lol
I’m not happy with the bbk clutch cable that came with the bbk firewall/quadrant kit. Doesn’t fit up with the frame mount. In order to have the pedal feel right I can barely even catch any threads to fit both nuts on it either. I may try and use the stock cable and this spring like you showed in the video.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Danny I did your spring mod on the bbk cable and loosened it just to where both the nuts are seated and then fined tuned with the firewall adjuster. Worked perfect!
Should the pedal have any free play at the beginning of pressing it ? Just put a new clutch with aftermarket cable n firewall with the spring u demonstrated
It does, but separating the bearing from the diaphragm fingers, but it’s also the incorrect way to do it as it makes the bearing go from 0-x,xxx rpm which makes more of a shock. The bearing is designed to spin continuously
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage so its probably not good to fix the squeak that way right, also i saw another method where you put white grease on the clutch fork bearing, did you just have to remove the trans cover to get to the fork?
This mod never made any sense to me. Put slight tension on the cable to where the tob is riding on the PP fingers, and you shouldn't have any clutch vibration. I also love how people say the TOB shouldn't be spinning all the time.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage like you stated though, it not touching then hitting the PP fingers shocks the hell out of it, also when it's not constantly spinning and leaving a air gap gives you less pedal travel and might not disengage the clutch.
I've been running mine with the bearing not touching because when I researched this on SVTP or Mach 1 registry people said the TOB constantly spinning was the cause of it failing and recommended it not touching.
Mach1shakin That is true IF you have enough load on the bearing that it’s the same as riding with your foot on the clutch. If you research other sources will tell you the bearing is intended to constantly spin with little preload. The factory ratcheting system achieves this. I’ve done both and you will experience lockout at high rpm shifts as the bearing isn’t touching and you won’t get full travel
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I haven't got locked out yet but I totally understand what you mean. I adjusted it to the point where it's barely not touching. I'll keep that in mind. Good video. I got my return spring kit from D'agostino a long time ago. Running a Steeda quick release quadrant and firewall adjuster. I had to swap the quadrant to get a steeper ramp to work well with the factory cable.
I'm trying to find the correct spring to set up The freeplay eliminator mod. I've been to Lowes and home depot and they have a very limited selection. I am concerned with the wire diameter. I have a spring that is The correct length and OD but the wire diameter is . 080. Seems pretty stiff. Does anyone know what the wire dia should be?
Que tal amigo una vez más te quiero hacer una pregunta, cambie el clutch de un Mustang Svt Cobra 2001, pero ahora no entran las velocidades, apagado si entran pero en marcha no, le puse el cuadrante de aluminio crei que con eso iba a mejorar pero no fue así, le puse 2 roldanas para tensar el chicote pero sigue sin cortar, lo raro es que cuando piso al fondo el clutch se escucha un tronido y se prende la luz del ABS. Cres que sea necesario comprar todo el kit de chicote y el ajustador que va en la pared de fuego? O me quedo mal instalado el clutch? O cres que es buena idea ponerle otro aumento para que quede más tensado el chicote y de esta forma puedan entrar las velocidades.? Te agradecería mucho si pudieras ayudarme.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage es que mi chicote no tiene el ajustador, por eso opte porponerle unas roldanas al forro del chicote para que recorriera al chicote. Pero por lo que veo voy a tener que conseguir todo el kit completo. Te agradezco mucho tu apoyo amigo. Dios te bendiga.
Jacob Gomez It’s designed to spin constantly with very little preload. There are kits out there to keep it from spinning until used. There is controversy and arguments for each. th-cam.com/video/tUR8zWHUxHw/w-d-xo.html
Hey. Quick question for you. It’s been on my mind for a couple years now, so I’m glad you made this video! How in the world do you find that fine line with the pre-load? Like you said, too much, you burn the clutch. Too little your tob is going to to be chirping and making your clutch petal vibrate
BirdonFire00 That’s a tough one. You’ll find instructions that say to stuff a dime in between the clutch cable and firewall adjuster for proper thickness, but what I’ve had better success with is turning the firewall adjuster until the chirping just barely goes away. It can be off by a tad as the seasons change and heat effects it. I once was driving to vegas and the clutch started to stiffen, so I backed it off. It really is a “feel” kind of thing unfortunately
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage So with that being said...is it a bad idea to use this mod if you don't have a firewall / pedal adjuster ? If I just have the OEM cable and OEM plastic clutch quadrant is this mod ill advised since I can't adjust with the firewall adjuster until TOB squeal is almost gone ? GREAT VIDEO either way...As a Mach 1 guy ('03 and '04) I truly appreciate them.
SKARHEAD 75 This mod can be used either way as the factory cable has a spring and this just adds to it. It helps most with a firewall adjuster and aftermarket quadrant because that setup tends to leave more slop in the cable system.
How do you adjust the clutch cable via the firewall? My 03 cobra has an aftermarket clutch cable quadrant and how often do you adjust it. Never done it before.
So my clutch pedal as im releasing it, it starts to feel rough like if its getting stuck. It doesnt gwt stuck but like on a take off i cant take off smoothly because its like choppy. Idk what to do or look for 🙃
The spring separates the clutch fork from the diaphragm springs, so the only drawback of the strength of the spring is its harder for you to push the clutch in. It won’t effect the clutch system at all
So today I noticed that my clutch felt very sticky when I release it. Still engages into gear and what not. So I looked under and that little rubber part under the spring on your video is completely ripped all around at the very left of the piece. Could that be the reason why it has a sticky feeling?
Are you talking about the sleeve the cable rides in? That could make a big difference. In fact, once the cable freys it will drag and feel that way too. I strongly recommend the FORD oem cable. I have had bad experiences with aftermarket ones. The ford one is the best by far www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU1NVC/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000NU1NVC&linkId=6aadef69fb0bc5fd3bbafb2c58ea6ca8
I just replaced my cable. There is no slack and the pedal grabs at the tippy top. How do I adjust it so the pedal grabs halfway? Do I need a firewall adjuster?
Anthony Frank if you haven’t figured it out already, if you have an aftermarket cable you just have to adjust it from the clutch fork as well. Don’t have it super tight against the pressure plate.make sure you have a little slack on the clutch cable. Leave a little slack in the clutch cable and adjust it in the firewall if you need to. Good luck!
Hi, thanks for your video. You know, I am not a mechanic, but I followed a video on how to install a new clutch line. The new BBK line I got comes with the two nuts to secure it under the car. I connected everything as supposed too, but when I press the clutch pedal all the way down, it pops, and the clutch is pedal is completely loose and then after a few seconds it hooks again. I am doing something wrong but I am not sure what could be. Any idea why it sounds like it pops out? Thanks in advance.
I would check to see if the clutch fork (where the cable connects on the transmission side) is sliding off of the pivot ball. When you installed the cable did the clutch fork feel floppy and fall downward that you had to push it back up?
Here are some vids to follow around. Also, with the adjustable cable you want to make sure both nuts are on and I even added a few extra since they work themselves loose over time. I like the ford factory cable th-cam.com/video/xsLqZE3Fs4Y/w-d-xo.html
If you have slop in the pedal and it’s flopping around then it’s not properly adjusted . This is unnecessary. And if you want the BEST clutch pedal feel buy a maximum Motorsport cable and kit. Unmatched quality and pedal feel. They have great detail how to properly adjust your clutch
I had some slop in the pedal and it turned out to be in part from a worn clutch fork and bad pivot ball stud. I haven’t had very good luck with adjustable cables. I like the Ford one the best
Are they threaded on the end? It might work with some red lock tite, but on my mach 1 the nut kept walking off over time. I like the ford one being one length and not threaded. I’m glad to hear mm makes a good one. Maybe I’ll try one someday 👍🏼
It is not threaded only adjustable by the MM quadrant. Worth every penny . Although i have used the spring method before for the same issue the MM was night and day difference
I went with your recommendation and got the MM kit. It’s a good one, only wish it had micro click increments for the firewall adjuster like ku fiore 👍🏼. th-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/w-d-xo.html
I have the clutch quadrant adjuster but not the preload elimination. For some reason the clutch constantly needs to be tightened to get rid of the chirping sound, till the point at where the clutch now engages at the top. Any tips?
Alexander Biermann I would look at the end of the cable on the clutch fork side. If it is an aftermarket cable they usually have a nut on the end. I had to put two nuts in a row so the nut would stop walking itself loose. It’s possible that the nut on the end is coming loose as the clutch is used. Add another nut or two and it should stop doing that (if that’s the case)
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I got mine to shut up thanks to you. I just didn’t want to drop it again it’s only been 1 week but I’m sure my fork is vibrating I’m assuming because of the pivot ball stud. Sadly I didn’t change it. Wasn’t having a issue there before but hey it’s the mustang life do it right the first time or pay days later
I can't thank you enough, guy. Adding this spring got rid of the clutch chatter that I was hearing. Especially when I had just replaced the clutch. I couldn't believe that this method worked. THANK YOU SO MUCH. SIMPLY INGENIOUS!
What spring did you use?
THANK YOU for making this my pedal has been driving me insane with the jiggling
Mine has been too and im SO HAPPY i found this video
Joshua Shuttleworth-Tuttle I’m glad you found the video 👊🏼
I didn't know they made a kit to do that. I'm running a BBK cable with a firewall adjuster. I just rigged up mine with a piece of tubing for the spacer and used washers with a couple of pistol recoil springs I had lying around.
Jon P Nice!
Thanks for all the very concise and informative video's you have put out on these Mustangs.
I often use them as a reference.
Question,I adjusted my clutch at the firewall and now have the floppy pedal.I also noticed my cruise control stopped working.
Is there a contact switch on the clutch pedal for the cruise?
I'am going to try the spring mod in the above video and see if it helps.
The clutch cable may be stretched, and a clutch quadrant would be useful to tighten it all back up. If it already has the firewall adjuster, it may need to be tightened. I’ll put a link to that below. As for the cruse control, it’s all up on the top of the engine near the throttle body. You can see if the little plastic piece has come off. Follow the cable back from the throttle body and you’ll find it th-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7cmd56vgQXJQ1WjI
Thanks,I have a new cable and quadrant
I'm going to go over everything when I install the spring down on the cable.
I will look under the hood for the cruise problem.
Thanks for the video. Helped me out. Nice Terminator
Thank you 🙏🏼
Saludos.
Buen video.
Puedo usar ese spring con el ajuste automático de fabrica?
Gracias
Another good one Danny!
tominator Thanks!
Thank you, for the video but i installed a steeda clutch cable,quadrant, and firewall adjuster, the cable gives the clutch pedal no freeplay but when put into gear the car engages almost to the point where i let the pedal go
I had the same issue with the same setup. 1. Adjust the firewall adjuster further out to drop the engagement point lower, you're gonna have to pull the heck out of the cable to really adjust it correctly. 2. It might be time to consider a clutch replacement, because with a firewall adjuster it's possible keep adjusting it until you wear all the way through the clutch faces.
Mustangs everywhere. Love it
Here is a better look th-cam.com/video/jjudmCt4HB4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Danny I was freakin out a bit when my clutch pedal started vibrating at low rpm driving. I’m thinking the worst, like are my input shaft & pilot bearings going out and making my throw out bearing vibrate and all the way up to the clutch pedal??? Call me lazy but I just don’t really want to spend my weekend replacing stuff that ain’t broke so glad to know that’s all it is. Thanks again.
Mitch I have this pretty well dialed in for the mach 1. No more clutch pedal vibration, but I think my pivot ball where the clutch fork attaches is worn out. I hear ya, just living with the small vibration at 2,500 cause I’m not excited about pulling the trans lol
Danny Johnson Hey I just pulled up on the clutch pedal until it clicked a half hour ago and it’s all good now ;D
Mitch Thays good for factory adjustment. Glad it worked
Grand info
Nice info. I'm not a Ford man, but as a mechanic, I work on them, unfortunately.
There are much worse cars to work on for sure. Fords aren’t so bad
Good video. I was hoping you would make this. I have my factory quadrant in a box if you want to see it/ use it for a video.
Thanks. Maybe we can, or swap out one on a certain 01 GT 😉
I’m not happy with the bbk clutch cable that came with the bbk firewall/quadrant kit. Doesn’t fit up with the frame mount. In order to have the pedal feel right I can barely even catch any threads to fit both nuts on it either. I may try and use the stock cable and this spring like you showed in the video.
Yeah, I didn’t like mine either. I went back to the ford OEM cable and have been happy
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Danny I did your spring mod on the bbk cable and loosened it just to where both the nuts are seated and then fined tuned with the firewall adjuster. Worked perfect!
thanks man good explanation.
No prob. Thanks for watching
Should the pedal have any free play at the beginning of pressing it ? Just put a new clutch with aftermarket cable n firewall with the spring u demonstrated
I did before I went back and changed my pívot ball stud and clutch fork
th-cam.com/video/xsLqZE3Fs4Y/w-d-xo.html
mine is a 10 mm for the dust shield. yours looks like it was replaced
That’s funny cause I reached for a 10mm and it was too big. Ha ha. I was almost right
Do you know the exact sizes of materials needed? When I click on link it won’t let me in.
does this fix the throw out bearing squeak? assuming it is applying slight pressure to the clutch fork
It does, but separating the bearing from the diaphragm fingers, but it’s also the incorrect way to do it as it makes the bearing go from 0-x,xxx rpm which makes more of a shock. The bearing is designed to spin continuously
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage so its probably not good to fix the squeak that way right, also i saw another method where you put white grease on the clutch fork bearing, did you just have to remove the trans cover to get to the fork?
You oughta market this 🤣
Hey video was awesome. My Ford gt is starting to chirp. Think it is the throw out bearing. What do I do?
Visit maximum Motorsport read up. Best kit you can buy . Without a doubt
This mod never made any sense to me. Put slight tension on the cable to where the tob is riding on the PP fingers, and you shouldn't have any clutch vibration. I also love how people say the TOB shouldn't be spinning all the time.
It’s just another theory on how to make the tob last longer but all I found were hot spots
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage like you stated though, it not touching then hitting the PP fingers shocks the hell out of it, also when it's not constantly spinning and leaving a air gap gives you less pedal travel and might not disengage the clutch.
Thank you
I've been running mine with the bearing not touching because when I researched this on SVTP or Mach 1 registry people said the TOB constantly spinning was the cause of it failing and recommended it not touching.
Mach1shakin That is true IF you have enough load on the bearing that it’s the same as riding with your foot on the clutch. If you research other sources will tell you the bearing is intended to constantly spin with little preload. The factory ratcheting system achieves this. I’ve done both and you will experience lockout at high rpm shifts as the bearing isn’t touching and you won’t get full travel
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I haven't got locked out yet but I totally understand what you mean. I adjusted it to the point where it's barely not touching. I'll keep that in mind. Good video. I got my return spring kit from D'agostino a long time ago. Running a Steeda quick release quadrant and firewall adjuster. I had to swap the quadrant to get a steeper ramp to work well with the factory cable.
Mach1shakin I had it like that for awhile. You can probably get away with both. In my setup video I suggested both methods and let the user decide
I'm trying to find the correct spring to set up The freeplay eliminator mod. I've been to Lowes and home depot and they have a very limited selection. I am concerned with the wire diameter. I have a spring that is The correct length and OD but the wire diameter is . 080. Seems pretty stiff. Does anyone know what the wire dia should be?
did you end up finding a spring the right size? i’m in the same situation.
Anyone got a link? The one in the info is broken for me.
Hey I have an 96 Mustang Gt with an factory quadrant can the free play Elimination mod still be used ??
Kobe Rossum you can try it, but the factory quadrant uses a ratcheting mechanism and so it will always pull the cable tighter
Que tal amigo una vez más te quiero hacer una pregunta, cambie el clutch de un Mustang Svt Cobra 2001, pero ahora no entran las velocidades, apagado si entran pero en marcha no, le puse el cuadrante de aluminio crei que con eso iba a mejorar pero no fue así, le puse 2 roldanas para tensar el chicote pero sigue sin cortar, lo raro es que cuando piso al fondo el clutch se escucha un tronido y se prende la luz del ABS.
Cres que sea necesario comprar todo el kit de chicote y el ajustador que va en la pared de fuego? O me quedo mal instalado el clutch? O cres que es buena idea ponerle otro aumento para que quede más tensado el chicote y de esta forma puedan entrar las velocidades.?
Te agradecería mucho si pudieras ayudarme.
Me párese que no esta tirando el clutch fork totalmente. Hay que poner la clutch fork hacia el clutch y apretarlo
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage es que mi chicote no tiene el ajustador, por eso opte porponerle unas roldanas al forro del chicote para que recorriera al chicote. Pero por lo que veo voy a tener que conseguir todo el kit completo.
Te agradezco mucho tu apoyo amigo.
Dios te bendiga.
so the bearing should spin at all times??? I thought it should be just off the fingers to not spin?
Jacob Gomez It’s designed to spin constantly with very little preload. There are kits out there to keep it from spinning until used. There is controversy and arguments for each. th-cam.com/video/tUR8zWHUxHw/w-d-xo.html
Hey. Quick question for you. It’s been on my mind for a couple years now, so I’m glad you made this video! How in the world do you find that fine line with the pre-load? Like you said, too much, you burn the clutch. Too little your tob is going to to be chirping and making your clutch petal vibrate
BirdonFire00 That’s a tough one. You’ll find instructions that say to stuff a dime in between the clutch cable and firewall adjuster for proper thickness, but what I’ve had better success with is turning the firewall adjuster until the chirping just barely goes away. It can be off by a tad as the seasons change and heat effects it. I once was driving to vegas and the clutch started to stiffen, so I backed it off. It really is a “feel” kind of thing unfortunately
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage So with that being said...is it a bad idea to use this mod if you don't have a firewall / pedal adjuster ? If I just have the OEM cable and OEM plastic clutch quadrant is this mod ill advised since I can't adjust with the firewall adjuster until TOB squeal is almost gone ? GREAT VIDEO either way...As a Mach 1 guy ('03 and '04) I truly appreciate them.
SKARHEAD 75 This mod can be used either way as the factory cable has a spring and this just adds to it. It helps most with a firewall adjuster and aftermarket quadrant because that setup tends to leave more slop in the cable system.
How do you adjust the clutch cable via the firewall? My 03 cobra has an aftermarket clutch cable quadrant and how often do you adjust it. Never done it before.
th-cam.com/video/tUR8zWHUxHw/w-d-xo.html
So my clutch pedal as im releasing it, it starts to feel rough like if its getting stuck. It doesnt gwt stuck but like on a take off i cant take off smoothly because its like choppy. Idk what to do or look for 🙃
It could be the retainer sleeve, pivot ball, warped from gear throwout bearing.. maybe all th-cam.com/video/xsLqZE3Fs4Y/w-d-xo.html
How do u know how much pressure the spring should be putting on the forks and could this cause the trans to knock at low rpm
The spring separates the clutch fork from the diaphragm springs, so the only drawback of the strength of the spring is its harder for you to push the clutch in. It won’t effect the clutch system at all
So today I noticed that my clutch felt very sticky when I release it. Still engages into gear and what not. So I looked under and that little rubber part under the spring on your video is completely ripped all around at the very left of the piece. Could that be the reason why it has a sticky feeling?
Are you talking about the sleeve the cable rides in? That could make a big difference. In fact, once the cable freys it will drag and feel that way too. I strongly recommend the FORD oem cable. I have had bad experiences with aftermarket ones. The ford one is the best by far www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU1NVC/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000NU1NVC&linkId=6aadef69fb0bc5fd3bbafb2c58ea6ca8
What did you use with that spring as a spacer, where is link to how to make your own, cant seem to find it thanks
The link is in the description. Here it is again www.sn95forums.com/threads/clutch-cable-freeplay-mod-ldc-mod-do-it-yourself.55023/
Hey bro could you link the free play kit? I really need this
I don't think they make them anymore
I just replaced my cable. There is no slack and the pedal grabs at the tippy top. How do I adjust it so the pedal grabs halfway? Do I need a firewall adjuster?
Anthony Frank Yes, a firewall adjuster will help with that and a clutch quadrant by the pedal
Anthony Frank th-cam.com/video/tUR8zWHUxHw/w-d-xo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage just installed it. Still grabs at the top. Cable is still too tight.
Anthony Frank if you haven’t figured it out already, if you have an aftermarket cable you just have to adjust it from the clutch fork as well. Don’t have it super tight against the pressure plate.make sure you have a little slack on the clutch cable. Leave a little slack in the clutch cable and adjust it in the firewall if you need to. Good luck!
Hi, thanks for your video. You know, I am not a mechanic, but I followed a video on how to install a new clutch line. The new BBK line I got comes with the two nuts to secure it under the car. I connected everything as supposed too, but when I press the clutch pedal all the way down, it pops, and the clutch is pedal is completely loose and then after a few seconds it hooks again. I am doing something wrong but I am not sure what could be. Any idea why it sounds like it pops out? Thanks in advance.
I would check to see if the clutch fork (where the cable connects on the transmission side) is sliding off of the pivot ball. When you installed the cable did the clutch fork feel floppy and fall downward that you had to push it back up?
Here are some vids to follow around. Also, with the adjustable cable you want to make sure both nuts are on and I even added a few extra since they work themselves loose over time. I like the ford factory cable th-cam.com/video/xsLqZE3Fs4Y/w-d-xo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage here you can see better what my oroblem is. drive.google.com/file/d/1a4c_uzBPs90idkOefwXTTihKPeY6QA4v/view?usp=drivesdk
If you have slop in the pedal and it’s flopping around then it’s not properly adjusted . This is unnecessary. And if you want the BEST clutch pedal feel buy a maximum Motorsport cable and kit. Unmatched quality and pedal feel. They have great detail how to properly adjust your clutch
I had some slop in the pedal and it turned out to be in part from a worn clutch fork and bad pivot ball stud. I haven’t had very good luck with adjustable cables. I like the Ford one the best
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage MM cables are made by the same manufacture that makes the oe Ford cable. That’s why their so good 👍
Are they threaded on the end? It might work with some red lock tite, but on my mach 1 the nut kept walking off over time. I like the ford one being one length and not threaded. I’m glad to hear mm makes a good one. Maybe I’ll try one someday 👍🏼
It is not threaded only adjustable by the MM quadrant. Worth every penny . Although i have used the spring method before for the same issue the MM was night and day difference
I went with your recommendation and got the MM kit. It’s a good one, only wish it had micro click increments for the firewall adjuster like ku fiore 👍🏼. th-cam.com/video/RkEn5FJHs8g/w-d-xo.html
Brother does that cause your gears to grind? If quadrant and or teeth wore
It shouldn’t hurt anything. I have an aftermarket clutch quadrant as well
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage everything's stock gears grinding I believe it's my cable but I feel as if its my slave cylider
Does anyone sell this free play eliminater?
Where can I buy that spring?
mustang_eddie I added a link that shows a how-to make your own. I believe it was from lowe’s hardware
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the link is no longer working could you post a new one ASAP
Hey danny what are your thoughts on the anti venom mod
I haven’t needed it, but some swear by it. It’s a bit difficult to install on the side of the trans, but give it a shot if you want
I have the clutch quadrant adjuster but not the preload elimination. For some reason the clutch constantly needs to be tightened to get rid of the chirping sound, till the point at where the clutch now engages at the top. Any tips?
Alexander Biermann I would look at the end of the cable on the clutch fork side. If it is an aftermarket cable they usually have a nut on the end. I had to put two nuts in a row so the nut would stop walking itself loose. It’s possible that the nut on the end is coming loose as the clutch is used. Add another nut or two and it should stop doing that (if that’s the case)
We’re can I find a 4in by 3/4in seems impossible?
I checked Lowe’s and couldn’t find it either.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage yeah impossible I’ll just get the closest I can find.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I got mine to shut up thanks to you. I just didn’t want to drop it again it’s only been 1 week but I’m sure my fork is vibrating I’m assuming because of the pivot ball stud. Sadly I didn’t change it. Wasn’t having a issue there before but hey it’s the mustang life do it right the first time or pay days later
@@mustangaddict589 in my pivot ball stud video it’s me dropping the trans again for the same thing- but 7 years later lol
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage lol I’m waiting 2months at least
Are you running the stock clutch cable or is it a stock replacement?
Ford OEM brand replacement cable
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Ok, thanks.
Where did you get the spring and housing?
It used to be for sale by LCD but they no longer sell it
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do you remember the size of the spring?
What trans is that?
This is on the tr-3650. It’s the same for most manual transmissions like the t45 and t56 for the new edge cars