No one freaks out when they have to paint fabric or leather, but when it comes to metal it's pure panic on the assumption that is more complicated. But metal is just another material! And with a good amount of observation/internalization and a render that contains its visual key features (plus a few dirty tricks 😋...), from the procedural point of view it's really not that complicated 😉. DROP A LIKE to help the diffusion of the video!!! See you later at the premiere and on Twitch immediately after the release 😘
Whenever I am remotely feeling fine with my skill as a miniature painter, Marco releases a new video and goes "look-a at-a me, this is what-a real art alooks alike" and completely crushes my spirit. Dude is a damn paint wizard ...
He is an absolute unit for surem, but the only comparison you should make is with you and your past self. Also every time he gets better, we get a chance to get better!
We are just at different points of our painting journey 😉 Never compare this kind of skills with anyone other than your yesterday/previous project self!
Perfect timing for the video marco, as i've just started an attempt at a cold tone NMM gold on a stormcast going from a dark desaturated green shadow up to a bright green yellow and i was feeling unsure about my highlight placement on the shoulder pads, this is exactly what i needed!
Amazing as always! You kind of hinted at it a couple times in this video, but I'd love to learn more about how you choose colors to build up your initial volumes. I tend to play it safe, sticking too close to the same section of the color wheel, where you seem to sweep through at least 1/3 of the color wheel, and it just looks so much better that way!
Visual observation, that part, yes. Watching with that in mind I find the colour choices a lot more enthralling, like the tendency for silver to somehow have a lot more purple tones in it. IT's these small observations and filters that make all the difference from is simply reading as grey scale... Thanks for yet another concise and to the point vid 😄
So cool to see the dissection of the colors piece by piece, definitely some neat approaches using colors I wouldn’t have thought to!!! I’ll be thinking about using that bronze technique for sure, haven’t tried that one yet!
I'll be honest, despite owning the H&S Infinity and a whole proper airbrushing setup in my workshop, I absolutely despise working with the airbrush (constant technical issues, and paint never just flows nice despite me going through every "troubleshooting an airbrush" video possible), so I tried recreating the effect with oil paints for smooth blends - except whenever I try blending oil paints on minis, they either end up with extremely clear brush marks from the blending brush / visible bits of unblended paint, or they end up blended into too low contrast since the brush takes away too much of the paint or mixes them up too thoroughly.. I guess I'm just not made for painting smooth blends. Still a good video though, of course, for anyone who actually knows how to use this advice, and your final results look gorgeous; Always nice to see more from you.
Do it! It's easy even with the brush because for this effects the bubbles of light should be very localised, separated and even with sharp borders if you like a more polished look
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM the way i know your a good painter is becuse my lizard brain watches you paint with no fuzz and then it makes me assume that becuse there was no fuzz it must have been easy.... but yes im printing out some armored knights this weekend and giving it a shot (more realistically, a couple of shots)
I am very confused on how to place lights and bounce lights on metal. many tutorials focus on the colors you are supposed to use but spend very little time about light placement, size and such. I really hope this video is ust the beginning of a small series in which I can get to understand this aspect of painting, through the wise words of macro!
After watching it i feel sooo fascinated and inspirated! Just started my journey into mini painting, and cant wait to try nmm. Think i could use drybrush technique instead of airbrush to learn the basics? Thank You for this vid! ❤
I’d kill to be able to paint that well and that fast ! Makes me think of the episode of American Dad when Roger makes a pact with the devil and sells his soul to become a guitar master haha...
Stunning. I'd be fascinated to see how you'd achieve this with a black metal and an inner glow or even two osl sources: inside the chest/armour and from the weapon. Basically necrons. How would you paint metallic black necrons with a blue inner glow and a green weapon energy source? Also I'd love to see how you'd do this nnm technique with red, blue, purple & green metal.
It's been weeks that I struggle to find the right color of the armor I want for my skaventide stormcasts. Man, I'm speechless, this is it. Are those even possible without any airbrush ?
These ideas actually come from brushwork and oils workflows so they are totally doable with the brush! The airbrush just brings into the mix a bunch of speed that's honestly great for army painting
thanks for the tips Marco ! i actually try NMM gold and silver for the first time on the miniature of Thalgrin Stronghold from scale 75 and it's afraid me a lot, i block on it. I will try your method with Ak paints because i really dont know where i can found Molotov paints in France.
Hello there ! After almost 20 years, I’m coming back to miniature painting and discovering your awesome channel ! This bitonal metal color scheme blew me away, would you considering to advance for an almost total newbie to try ? How would it adapt to TMM if I wanted to go along that way rather ? Thank you so much for your content, your take on the hobby is so unique compared to everything else you can find online, I feel so lucky finding your TH-cam channel out !
These look amazing Marco! I'm too scared to use acrylics for the edge highlights and find oils way easier. Would it be okay to highlight with oils instead to get a similar look?
i like how you menioned not needng the paints. I mostly use myself army painter airpaints when i paint in the style you do. Molotov paints seem sooooooo prohibitively expensive for me
Those are a good substitute! Yeah, outside Europe Molotow can be a bit difficult to acquire, but again, their main things are to be fluid and opaque and there many other similar options out there
Hey, awesome work as always. Question: Have you tried the white paint from the Molotow range? How's the coverage and usability compared to the other colors in the range?
It's great for colour blocking,10000% like the rest of the line, but since I tend to use white in semi transparent and transparent forms I don't use Molotow white that often
Hey Marco, if someone mixed the paints you used here with a metallic paint (duraluminium) and followed the steps you laid out here, do you think the resulting TMM would still look as "real" as this NMM does?
It will be MORE real! I literally use the same steps, colours and ideas in my TMM (I have a couple of old videos where I do precisely that!), even using standard opaque paints in the shadows to make the dark more contrasting with the upper shine
I'm working on custodes with a white armor base and I've been doing black oil panel lining as suggested by you and a few others. Been going back and forth on whether to varnish first or not. I got the impression from previous videos that it wasn't necessary but here you do it, so I'm unsure. Should I varnish before panel lining?
In my experience, yeah varnish before panel lining if you want the best initial results with the least amount of clean-up. The smooth surface of the varnish will make the capillary action of the oil wash that much better. Basically: see how Marco dots the oil wash in and how it spreads out with barely any action? That's the reason you'd varnish first. It's so much easier that way.
It depends on what kind of panel lining you want!!! To make it simple, with varnish you get a sharper and cleaner result; just the thin, clean line and nothing else. With NO varnish you get thicker lines that look more weathered and grimy (perfect for monsters and orks armours fo example). The vanishing is a technical tool to get different visual effects!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thanks. Definitely prefer the cleaner look for custodes. Absolutely helpful thank you. Love the video as always, you inspired me to try oils and some other stuff. Thanks.
Hi from México! Thanks I like it your Job! A question...the paint Molotov one 4 all ..need dilution or I can put direct in my airbrush? And ....The paint can reactivated with the water or not? Muchas Gracias!
Hi Marco, thank you for your channel and this video too! Just got a kimera base set after watching your review, are these paints still good after 5 years since you reviewed them? I do not see you using them nowadays. Thank you for your answer!
@@quintu5 the Molotow paints do not cause tip dry (they are a dream to work with), nor do the Golden High Flow or inks from Liquitex, Schmincke or Daler-Rowny, etc.
This was my thought. I was watching the airbrush phase trying to think what he'd do with a brush, expecting some layers of glazing or maybe some blending with oils... Then came the pin washing and in one step they went from clearly a work in progress to something us neophytes could call done and be super proud of without even going to the edge highlights.
Am I wrong or did you paint these straight on the plastic without any primer ? If so, what is the reason for it ? Is it because you used primarly airbrush ? Otherwise, amazing end result and great use of varied supply ! Truly inspiring !
@@pili-pala3510for modern plastic and resin minis you don't really need a primer the way you would with metal. You can start with any decent covering opaque paint. A dedicated primer will probably be cheaper but if you're going to completely obscure the primer with a coloured base coat you could just start with the base coat.
@@1AngelAlita I paint to learn the art of painting and blending, not for wargaming purposes. That was my logic anyway. The drying time isn't really an issue, it's usually a few hours or a day for like the initial application. Just work on something else while it dries. I haven't even bothered to buy Liquin yet.
Do you have any recommendations for primer or paint that is as matte and durable as Molotow? Molotow is not easy to get in the USA. Tried Vallejo primer but it does not work well with oils and isnt very durable. Thanks!
Marco, what needle size and PSI are you using for those small point highlights with white? I'm using a HP-CS at 25 PSI and I either get an area too big, or spiderwebbing. I'm trying to work out whether this is because of pressure, dilution, needle size, or just needing more practice with the tool. Thanks :)
Do you still do commissions? I feel like your style of speed painting with acrylics and oils would be well suited to Tyranids (or seraphon etc) due to the whole miniature being organic materials. My scheme is dark purple for the flesh (dioxazine) with really vivid bright green/yellow carapace (moot green for example) but i find it hard to have the purple read as purple and to highlight. I tried using blue in shadows but the blues are usually brighter than the purple so it doesn't work quite as well. I'm also unsure of a colour for the various talons (using orange/yellow for eyes) and pink wings i'm concerned will blend in too much (was thinking more peach wings using moltov (vanilla/beige/peach pastel). I'd probably be up for commissioning a video to do similar if you would have any interest in that kind of thing, the channel is light on the gribblies! Happy to discuss to see if we can come to an agreement? be nice to have a guide for consistency along with an example of something to work too while giving flexibility for touches as the only thing i have in mind really are the colours. I'm finding it hard also to introduce warm colours for the cold/warm contrast as purple and green are both on the cool side. If you were interested you could choose which models (to cover something with wings and something without preferably with a carnifex or similar size, and a gaunt size) as I have an astounding pile of tyranid shame with most of the range represented unassembled. Excuse the wall of text. Figured I'd write and ask as from any of the myriad painters i follow on youtube (and there are so many excellent painters) your videos are some of the best for referencing due to how concise you are, what you show being done and the manner in which you explain the reasoning for the actions and go more into actual theory etc than anyone else I've seen.
Not harder at all, just slower; simply because the airbrush covers a lot of ground with a single puff and does a good amount of blending with its close over spray! But all these ideas and concepts come from brush (and oil painting: still brush!) workflows!
I paint only for gaming and do not like using metalic paints. I like to varnish my models and I do not like effects of any varnish on metalic paints. So using them mostly doubles my time from start to finish.
Hahahaha you'll get there don't worry! The trick is a combo of relatively high pressure, small trigger movements and staying very close to the models 😉
No one freaks out when they have to paint fabric or leather, but when it comes to metal it's pure panic on the assumption that is more complicated. But metal is just another material! And with a good amount of observation/internalization and a render that contains its visual key features (plus a few dirty tricks 😋...), from the procedural point of view it's really not that complicated 😉. DROP A LIKE to help the diffusion of the video!!! See you later at the premiere and on Twitch immediately after the release 😘
@marco Frisoni:
For nmm with oil paints you can use opaque or semi opaque oils ?
Bold of you to assume that I don’t freak out when I have to paint leather 😅
@@biseinerheult78 L O L!!!
I went from thinking “I’ll just watch this for entertainment” to “I think I could try that” great job Marco
That's the best reward that can come from a video!!! 😊😁😊
Whenever I am remotely feeling fine with my skill as a miniature painter, Marco releases a new video and goes "look-a at-a me, this is what-a real art alooks alike" and completely crushes my spirit. Dude is a damn paint wizard ...
Be happy with what you have achieved, especially if you don't do it for a living. Comparison is the thief of joy.
He is an absolute unit for surem, but the only comparison you should make is with you and your past self. Also every time he gets better, we get a chance to get better!
We are just at different points of our painting journey 😉 Never compare this kind of skills with anyone other than your yesterday/previous project self!
Should I be worried that I actually read that second part - in english - with an italian accent, while being french ?
@@TheTeccala LOL!!!
Perfect timing for the video marco, as i've just started an attempt at a cold tone NMM gold on a stormcast going from a dark desaturated green shadow up to a bright green yellow and i was feeling unsure about my highlight placement on the shoulder pads, this is exactly what i needed!
It's facinating to see how the final spot highlights finish the effect and tie it all together.
Amazing as always! You kind of hinted at it a couple times in this video, but I'd love to learn more about how you choose colors to build up your initial volumes. I tend to play it safe, sticking too close to the same section of the color wheel, where you seem to sweep through at least 1/3 of the color wheel, and it just looks so much better that way!
Visual observation, that part, yes. Watching with that in mind I find the colour choices a lot more enthralling, like the tendency for silver to somehow have a lot more purple tones in it. IT's these small observations and filters that make all the difference from is simply reading as grey scale...
Thanks for yet another concise and to the point vid 😄
Amazing video Marco, you’ve elevated my skills immensely over the years! Thanks more than words can say ❤
Top notch content as always. Thank you for what you do!
I'm definitely going to have to give this one a shot! That bronze / aged gold just looks phenomenal.
An incredible painting technique 👏👏👏
Mindblowing. So much done with an airbrush.
Lovely paintjobs Marco, you are making me want to give NMM another try
You have once again given me the confidence and motivation to begin a new project!
Fantastic video Marco. I really liked this style of video. Seemed much easier to follow. Beautiful models
So cool to see the dissection of the colors piece by piece, definitely some neat approaches using colors I wouldn’t have thought to!!! I’ll be thinking about using that bronze technique for sure, haven’t tried that one yet!
I don't think I'll ever tire of saying: once again, you've blown my mind Marco!
Fantastic information, and enjoyable video as always!
😊😁😊😘😘😘
That airbrushing flex @ 3:06!!
I'm 60% of the way through a NMM army and now this drops, now we can apply it to the other 40% and see how much I improve :)
Another amazing mind blowing video. Your jedi like skills with an airbrush are inspiring!!!!!!
I'll be honest, despite owning the H&S Infinity and a whole proper airbrushing setup in my workshop, I absolutely despise working with the airbrush (constant technical issues, and paint never just flows nice despite me going through every "troubleshooting an airbrush" video possible), so I tried recreating the effect with oil paints for smooth blends - except whenever I try blending oil paints on minis, they either end up with extremely clear brush marks from the blending brush / visible bits of unblended paint, or they end up blended into too low contrast since the brush takes away too much of the paint or mixes them up too thoroughly.. I guess I'm just not made for painting smooth blends. Still a good video though, of course, for anyone who actually knows how to use this advice, and your final results look gorgeous; Always nice to see more from you.
This is just incredible! 🖤🖌️ Thanks Marco!
@@Paintquisition 😊😁😊😘😘😘
Amazing result in no time ! Great work marco.
This is mad. The tip about the chromatic change is such a key point. Finally feel like I know the secret to the illusion now!
Your work is always mind blowing!
Marco, you are so precise with the airbrush that you could do surgery with it ;) :D
Sei grande Marco!
Shall i give in to my hubris and try the bronze paintjob
Yes
2nded. motion carried. yes.
Do or do not. There is no try
Do it! It's easy even with the brush because for this effects the bubbles of light should be very localised, separated and even with sharp borders if you like a more polished look
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM the way i know your a good painter is becuse my lizard brain watches you paint with no fuzz and then it makes me assume that becuse there was no fuzz it must have been easy....
but yes im printing out some armored knights this weekend and giving it a shot (more realistically, a couple of shots)
This video is really good. Saving this one for direct reference.
AWESOME!!!!! Thank you for sharing!...
this painting method is crazy ! you are crazy ! i am spending hours on nmm and dont have dat effect. Its crazu
Appena prendo l'aerografo devo provare!! 😍😍😍
this was so insane, hitting this on an airbrush is just bananas - can't wait to try it.
Beautiful piece of work ✨✨
Mindblowing as always
I am very confused on how to place lights and bounce lights on metal. many tutorials focus on the colors you are supposed to use but spend very little time about light placement, size and such. I really hope this video is ust the beginning of a small series in which I can get to understand this aspect of painting, through the wise words of macro!
This is straight up wizardry. Great stuff Marco!
Thanks for this video. It's a great tutorial!
Omfg I have to try this. That oil blacklining trick is genius! Such a quick trick to bring the effect into reality.
After watching it i feel sooo fascinated and inspirated! Just started my journey into mini painting, and cant wait to try nmm. Think i could use drybrush technique instead of airbrush to learn the basics? Thank You for this vid! ❤
1:50 I do that all the time too, mixing primers to get the right undercoat.
Spectacular ! 😍
Amazing!!!
Sigmar bless you Marco! Best painting channel on youtube
You’re the best Marco!
Another great video Marco!
Hi marco, could you point me to get the same airbrush tip and needle you're using for such a precise shot? 😄
@@selicatoart Sure thing! Here I'm using an Iwata Micron 0.18 nozzle/needle 😊
I’d kill to be able to paint that well and that fast !
Makes me think of the episode of American Dad when Roger makes a pact with the devil and sells his soul to become a guitar master haha...
This is absolutely insane! Will definitely try this
Just wanted to leave a like for the sake of support🎉
@@bastianniemand7460 Always crazily appreciated!!! 😘🥰😘
Stunning. I'd be fascinated to see how you'd achieve this with a black metal and an inner glow or even two osl sources: inside the chest/armour and from the weapon. Basically necrons. How would you paint metallic black necrons with a blue inner glow and a green weapon energy source?
Also I'd love to see how you'd do this nnm technique with red, blue, purple & green metal.
It's been weeks that I struggle to find the right color of the armor I want for my skaventide stormcasts. Man, I'm speechless, this is it. Are those even possible without any airbrush ?
These ideas actually come from brushwork and oils workflows so they are totally doable with the brush! The airbrush just brings into the mix a bunch of speed that's honestly great for army painting
thanks for the tips Marco ! i actually try NMM gold and silver for the first time on the miniature of Thalgrin Stronghold from scale 75 and it's afraid me a lot, i block on it. I will try your method with Ak paints because i really dont know where i can found Molotov paints in France.
Hello there ! After almost 20 years, I’m coming back to miniature painting and discovering your awesome channel !
This bitonal metal color scheme blew me away, would you considering to advance for an almost total newbie to try ? How would it adapt to TMM if I wanted to go along that way rather ?
Thank you so much for your content, your take on the hobby is so unique compared to everything else you can find online, I feel so lucky finding your TH-cam channel out !
These look amazing Marco! I'm too scared to use acrylics for the edge highlights and find oils way easier. Would it be okay to highlight with oils instead to get a similar look?
Oh yeah absolutely! I wanted to keep this video tight and focused, but in the real work I use oils for edges all the time!!!
i like how you menioned not needng the paints. I mostly use myself army painter airpaints when i paint in the style you do. Molotov paints seem sooooooo prohibitively expensive for me
Those are a good substitute! Yeah, outside Europe Molotow can be a bit difficult to acquire, but again, their main things are to be fluid and opaque and there many other similar options out there
Busting out those Stormcast that have been sitting in my Dominion box for….. erm…… years 😂
Same here 😅 no judgement...
Great video! Always keen to see a new one
Simplemente: WoW 😯
Hey, awesome work as always.
Question: Have you tried the white paint from the Molotow range? How's the coverage and usability compared to the other colors in the range?
It's great for colour blocking,10000% like the rest of the line, but since I tend to use white in semi transparent and transparent forms I don't use Molotow white that often
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Good to hear. Thanks for the quick reply and all your great work!
Requesting for oil painting mecha miniatures or models please! With a focus on a more clean look and polished just like this video! Thank you!
This video is a nice callback to your earlier video's where you painted TMM gold and silver stormcast.
Hey Marco, if someone mixed the paints you used here with a metallic paint (duraluminium) and followed the steps you laid out here, do you think the resulting TMM would still look as "real" as this NMM does?
It will be MORE real! I literally use the same steps, colours and ideas in my TMM (I have a couple of old videos where I do precisely that!), even using standard opaque paints in the shadows to make the dark more contrasting with the upper shine
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I guess I know how I'll be painting my stormcas then! Thanks for the great advice
I'm working on custodes with a white armor base and I've been doing black oil panel lining as suggested by you and a few others. Been going back and forth on whether to varnish first or not. I got the impression from previous videos that it wasn't necessary but here you do it, so I'm unsure. Should I varnish before panel lining?
In my experience, yeah varnish before panel lining if you want the best initial results with the least amount of clean-up. The smooth surface of the varnish will make the capillary action of the oil wash that much better. Basically: see how Marco dots the oil wash in and how it spreads out with barely any action? That's the reason you'd varnish first. It's so much easier that way.
It depends on what kind of panel lining you want!!! To make it simple, with varnish you get a sharper and cleaner result; just the thin, clean line and nothing else. With NO varnish you get thicker lines that look more weathered and grimy (perfect for monsters and orks armours fo example). The vanishing is a technical tool to get different visual effects!
Uh, I almost forgot! And of course satin or real glossy varnish produce progressively cleaner results
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thanks. Definitely prefer the cleaner look for custodes. Absolutely helpful thank you. Love the video as always, you inspired me to try oils and some other stuff. Thanks.
Hi from México! Thanks I like it your Job! A question...the paint Molotov one 4 all ..need dilution or I can put direct in my airbrush? And ....The paint can reactivated with the water or not? Muchas Gracias!
Jesus man your skill level has gone up so much
Have you tried water mixable oil paints?
I’ve watched your videos about using artists paints. What are your thoughts on the liquitex acrylic basics set as a way of starting?
Hi Marco, thank you for your channel and this video too! Just got a kimera base set after watching your review, are these paints still good after 5 years since you reviewed them? I do not see you using them nowadays. Thank you for your answer!
Is Not Just Mecha going to be Sometimes Though Mecha?
How do you prevent a dry airbrush tip, applying such tiny points?
@@lemongambit the airbrush mate, the airbrush.
@@quintu5 the Molotow paints do not cause tip dry (they are a dream to work with), nor do the Golden High Flow or inks from Liquitex, Schmincke or Daler-Rowny, etc.
@@tompintamini7722 tell that to my airbrush :') that´s exactly the paints I use.
Try adding flow improver/aid to delay tip dry. And keep an old toothbrush to hand to scrub the tip every now and again.
@@rickohanlon3370 sure :)
what are good true metalic metals to use? espcially for vermillion and cyan.
You are a wizard
This was my thought. I was watching the airbrush phase trying to think what he'd do with a brush, expecting some layers of glazing or maybe some blending with oils...
Then came the pin washing and in one step they went from clearly a work in progress to something us neophytes could call done and be super proud of without even going to the edge highlights.
Am I wrong or did you paint these straight on the plastic without any primer ? If so, what is the reason for it ? Is it because you used primarly airbrush ? Otherwise, amazing end result and great use of varied supply ! Truly inspiring !
I primed each model respectively in black, dark blue and brown!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Ok ! So Molotow inks can act as primer. Interesting !
@@pili-pala3510for modern plastic and resin minis you don't really need a primer the way you would with metal. You can start with any decent covering opaque paint.
A dedicated primer will probably be cheaper but if you're going to completely obscure the primer with a coloured base coat you could just start with the base coat.
@@conarts_dc Thank you for the feedback, that's good to know 👍
100% Professional
Clicks on Marco video: Ohh maybe I'll learn something.
Gets out airbrush: Damn.. nevermind.
🤣😁🤣😘
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Well someone convinced me to blow all my money on oils :P That def shouldn't have been the priority in retrospect.
@@blakearius I don't think oils are very practical when painting minis for gaming, they take forever to dry...
@@1AngelAlita I paint to learn the art of painting and blending, not for wargaming purposes. That was my logic anyway. The drying time isn't really an issue, it's usually a few hours or a day for like the initial application. Just work on something else while it dries. I haven't even bothered to buy Liquin yet.
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I have an airbrush and it's setup, I can finally watch this video!
This is pushing me to try my first nmm !
Is the semi gloss varnish the same as a regular satin varnish ?
Yeah, it's just semantic, but it's totally satin varnish!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thanks Marco !
What Molotov colors do you use the most?
what size needle do you use in your airbrush? that looked super tight.
I have an 0.2 and an 0.18 on the table (0.18 for this job in particular!)
@marco Frisoni:
For nmm with oil paints you can use opaque or semi opaque oils ?
It's definitely easier to build up the main colour/value structure with opaque paint, then add subtle tones and reflections with transparency!
Awesome work !!! Can't wait to try it. howerver, you wrote speed painting but how many hour did you take to paint one mini ?
I say at the end 😉 about 1 hour per model!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I can't belive that 😂😂😂 I spend too much more time on my minis but without that result 😅😅😅
Do you have any recommendations for primer or paint that is as matte and durable as Molotow? Molotow is not easy to get in the USA. Tried Vallejo primer but it does not work well with oils and isnt very durable. Thanks!
wow
Hey Marco wrote you several Mails about the Hamburg workshop…. Is everything fine???
Marco, what needle size and PSI are you using for those small point highlights with white? I'm using a HP-CS at 25 PSI and I either get an area too big, or spiderwebbing. I'm trying to work out whether this is because of pressure, dilution, needle size, or just needing more practice with the tool. Thanks :)
What are these paints you're using? Are they oil based?
1h per model: I'm dead xD
Do you still do commissions?
I feel like your style of speed painting with acrylics and oils would be well suited to Tyranids (or seraphon etc) due to the whole miniature being organic materials. My scheme is dark purple for the flesh (dioxazine) with really vivid bright green/yellow carapace (moot green for example) but i find it hard to have the purple read as purple and to highlight. I tried using blue in shadows but the blues are usually brighter than the purple so it doesn't work quite as well.
I'm also unsure of a colour for the various talons (using orange/yellow for eyes) and pink wings i'm concerned will blend in too much (was thinking more peach wings using moltov (vanilla/beige/peach pastel).
I'd probably be up for commissioning a video to do similar if you would have any interest in that kind of thing, the channel is light on the gribblies! Happy to discuss to see if we can come to an agreement? be nice to have a guide for consistency along with an example of something to work too while giving flexibility for touches as the only thing i have in mind really are the colours. I'm finding it hard also to introduce warm colours for the cold/warm contrast as purple and green are both on the cool side.
If you were interested you could choose which models (to cover something with wings and something without preferably with a carnifex or similar size, and a gaunt size) as I have an astounding pile of tyranid shame with most of the range represented unassembled.
Excuse the wall of text. Figured I'd write and ask as from any of the myriad painters i follow on youtube (and there are so many excellent painters) your videos are some of the best for referencing due to how concise you are, what you show being done and the manner in which you explain the reasoning for the actions and go more into actual theory etc than anyone else I've seen.
13:36 so satisfy
How much harder would this be without an airbrush?
Not harder at all, just slower; simply because the airbrush covers a lot of ground with a single puff and does a good amount of blending with its close over spray! But all these ideas and concepts come from brush (and oil painting: still brush!) workflows!
Lets gooo
I paint only for gaming and do not like using metalic paints. I like to varnish my models and I do not like effects of any varnish on metalic paints. So using them mostly doubles my time from start to finish.
Why is it when I airbrush my backdrop looks like a poorly rendered Jackson Pollock, but when you airbrush...perfectly white?!!... Bastard!😄
Hahahaha you'll get there don't worry! The trick is a combo of relatively high pressure, small trigger movements and staying very close to the models 😉
I think you misspoke. You said 1 hour per model. I believe you meant "1 year". Good grief!