Thanks for imparting your automotive knowledge for the PS belt removal. It took me about 15 minutes, and it felt great to not pay a mechanic to do it. 👍
Thank you bro because of you I learned the starter replacement and now this...you helped me build courage and now I even work on my honda fit and ford explorer thank you :)
Thank you so much for doing a video on this topic! I had no problems with finding videos on changing a power steering pump or alternator. Only you have a video on belt replacement and especially the amount of deflection to measure on the belts for overtightness! I liked the explanation of belt squeal during start up and if it continues. I enjoy working on my newly purchased 1992 Honda Accord. It's all new to me. I appreciate your help and building my confidence in saving money. Thanks
This is the real deal. Excellent step by step and close up pics. Thanks for the info on tension too! That was pretty hard to find anything about it. New belts and no more squeaks!! I would add that you should 10wd40 all the bolts before hand because they can get pretty stuck. I did that and waited a bit and it seemed to work well. I have a 2002 Honda Accord.
i had to get a new belt that bypassed the ac pulley because it was squealing like a mofo. this video got me through doing this by myself! thank you for posting!
I replaced the starter on my daughter's 96 Accord after watching your video on that subject. I then replaced the distributor on her car after watching your video on replacing the seals, with the notes on the OBD2 distinction being critical. For the distributor, I noted your comment about the D-shaft inside the distributor, which told me that I simply needed to ensure the drive cam orientation of the new unit was identical to the old unit it it came out of the block. There's that groove that's only one the one side of the cam. I didn't remove the cap from the old unit, because I intended to simply swap the plug wires across one at a time to eliminate the possibility of confusion or crossed wires. The only problem I experienced was that of the two plastic connectors, I didn't ensure that the 4-pin connector was fully seated, so the engine didn't fire up when I turned the key. That was a seriously uncooperative connector. Next, I think I may have to replace her alternator, because when I was diagnosing her distributor problem, I once saw a small wisp of smoke curl up from the alternator, and now she has reported that she occasionally smells electrical smoke. Pulling the two belts are obviously essential steps in that process, with what looks like removing and replacing the fastening bolts and a couple of electrical connections. Thanks for your thoroughness and attention to detail, with your concise explanations.
Check the B+ terminal and make sure it's tight and free of corrosion also check the contacts on the voltage regulator connector for any corrosion or burn marks. If the connections are fine the problem is internal.
Thank you for the clear instructions and no-nonsense approach to this video. I've changed out both belts & had them tightened correctly on the first try. Where can I buy you a beer?
I like your real time style. I shows the simple man how this work really goes. I hope that you just traded cars and don’t have to work on your Accord anymore. You have given me so many “heads up” before I jump into a project on my car🤔thank you
It's not my car it's a family members and he still brings it to me from time to time. He refuses to part with it these older Hondas just keep going and when something does go wrong it's usually inexpensive to fix.
Well at least you know what to expect before going in. Nothing's worse than having the vehicle apart only to realize you need more parts or tools to continue. Thanks For Watching.
Great Video. Good editing and excellent work. This helped me completely change my alternator belt after recently purchasing this small car after selling my big ole' ford truck that just needed one ratchet to release the tensioner to replace the belt!
Wish you had an alternator replacement video. Here is a great tip from "general Mechanic" you need to tap the bushing into the upper mount hole in order to fit new alternator in place
Thanks. I've got a harness holding the power steering and alternator. None of the other videos told me how to loosen the alternator/compressor belt. Now I can get to me water pump.
thanks for this video. just got AC work done on the car and got it back now the belts are squealing so I'm replacing both same time. isn't life wonderful? also gained a check engine light.
thank u for making this video! it was very helpful! the damn mechanic wanted to charge me 88$ just to change power steering belt. dang,I think I can do it in less than 30 minutes.thnx again.
I am working on a '92 Honda Accord. I had to replace a bad alternator so I puled the power steering pump and disabled the SRS as the book recommends. Even after I loosened all alternator bolts, the alt belt was practically impossible to pull off the alt. With the new alt on and loose, I could not slip the belt over the alt. I ended up tearing the belt (never mind why or how) and had to buy a new one. Now that I have the new one, how do I get the alt belt back on if I'm just going to have the same issue trying to slip it over the alt pulley?
Attempting to pry a belt on usually results in damage. Back out the adjusting bolt as much as possible and push the alternator all the way down. With the belt sitting on the crank and compressor pulleys properly it will be tight but you should be able to pull the belt over the alternator pulley by hand. If the belt still won't fit I'd verify if you have the proper belt also verify that the diameter of the new alternators pulley is the same as the old one.
Hello and thank you for this helpful info, currently my car starts squeaking while I press on the breaks at a red light. I’m thinking of replacing both. I wanted to know if both belts you used for this video are k060439?
Squealing when applying the brakes usually indicates that your brake pads are worn. There is a piece of metal called a wear indicator on each pad that contacts the rotor when most of the pad material is gone.
Bushougoma thank you for your reply, sorry if I sounded confusing I wrote this really late after work. The sound doesn’t seem to be from my breaks because my tires aren’t in rotation when the squealing happens, my breaks are pressed, not moving at a red light, and it sounds to be from the belts I just don’t know which one so I’m using your video to help in replacing both.
It could be a worn belt, a belt without enough tension, or misaligned pulleys. The easiest way to tell if it's an alignment or tension problem is to carefully spray some water on the underside of the belt with the engine running if the squealing gets worse it's a tension problem if it improves it's an alignment problem. It could also be a bad harmonic balancer (crank pulley) make sure the pulley is running true (not wobbling) and the rubber dampener ring that connects the outer pulley to the inner pulley is in good shape.
I am assuming you're using impact sockets? A reg 12mm short socket for the bottom nut is too short and I have a deep socket now and it just seems to be rounding the nut. Is there a better socket to use and it is nearly impossible to get my hands in there. I even had to remove my power steering reservoir to get in there.
This is for 4 cylinders only. Not the V6 honda accords. On the V6, you have to remove an engine mount and jack the engine up 1/2 inch as well as remove all three belts. But good video for the 4 cylinders
Such a stupid design on my V6, why in gods name would they make it so you have to lift the engine, they couldn't have put it on an angle to avoid that. So dumb.
I'm having a problem getting my new alternator in. Just like you were having trouble when the top pivot bolt are was extremely tight and hard to fit the alternator inside. How did you get it in?
If you're reinstalling the original alternator it will fit back into the bracket if you're replacing it there is an extra step. Press the bushing that goes through the top bolt back in with a C clamp or hammer and a block of wood. The bushing comes out and makes contact with the alternator body when the top bolt is tightened.
I had to do my alternator belt I did everything by the video but by the time I put everything back together none of my power on my car Works only my emergency lights what problem is this
My car started squealing after I changed the alternator belt. From articles online, I'm guessing it's not tight enough. It squeals when I crank it for a few seconds then stops. I pressed it and it doesn't seem loose. Is there another way to determine if it's too loose? I don't want to tighten it too much.
New belts will gain a bit of slack after they've broken into the grooves of the pulleys. Which is why the belts are tensioned a bit tighter to compensate for the break in. Around 1/2" of deflection between the pulleys is normal.
This looks like it'll apply almost directly to a 93 as well. I'll probably have learned for myself before anyone responds, but my power steering appear to have some kind of blockage somewhere in the system; fluid appears to foam and flow back from the pump into the reservoir after killing the engine. I want to try removing the power steering belt so that I don't risk additional damage to the PS system with the pump not getting lubricated with fluid. Hope I can still manage to steer.
Make sure that you have Honda power steering fluid! The same thing happened to my Honda when I used regular fluid. Get a straw or something n suck that old stuff out,n try to clean that screen as good as you can.then replace with genuine Honda fluid. It fixed my problem.
i have a 96 accord with a squealing problem. i have a new belt set that i had the auto repair shop put in, and have gone back multiple times to get them to fix it. this should help, thanks!
Carefully spray the underside of the belt with water if the squealing gets worse you have a tension problem if it improves you have a belt alignment problem. If there is no change it's likely an accessory bearing problem.
Love your videos. Amazing presentation! I have this car, so this is perfect. Going to attempt the fuel filter replacement. What a bitch its going to be. Doesn't help that my car is rusty as hell in the engine bay.
Bro I need your help I replaced my serpentine belt on my 91 accord its a brand new gates belt for ac/alternator the thing is it keeps squealing even tho its brand new... does it mean too tight? Or loose? Please respond back thank you.
Squealing usually means either the belt is too loose, isn't seated properly on the pulleys due to an installation error or pulley misalignment, or one of the accessory bearings is bad.
***** What is an accessory bearing? I had serpentine belt replaced and tightened and still getting squealing...How do I check if accessory bearing is the problem? Thanks
Benjamin Brisjar One of three things commonly cause belt noise. A slipping belt, misaligned pulleys, or bad bearings in a component of the belt drive system. To check the pulley bearings remove the belt and spin the pulley of the accessory by hand it should spin smoothly and quietly with no roughness. Now check for end play you shouldn't be able to move the pulley up, down, or side to side. Noise, roughness, or excessive movement means the bearings are bad and the component should be replaced.
I have a '98 Accord w/2.3L engine. Same procedure? Everything in the video looks similar, just not sure of the locations of some of the bolts. The PS belt had broken and damaged the alt belt. All pulleys are now full of burnt rubber between the ribs. It will probably take a couple of hours just to clean up the pulleys before I can install the new belts. What a mess!
There's no tension adjusting bolt on the power steering pump you just loosen the two mounting bolts and pry back with a breaker bar to apply tension then re tighten the mounting bolts.
***** Thanks for the reply. Yes, it wasn't difficult at all. The most difficult part about it was reinstalling that darned splash shield LOL! I had to get under the car to clean the burnt rubber from the pulleys, as I stated earlier. While doing so, I also noticed that the AC pulley looked a little cattywompus (that's southern for misaligned), and I could not turn it by hand. Not having the time or $$$ to R+R the clutch and/or compressor, I just bought a belt for the alternator only. No AC during a Georgia summer... just have to deal with it and use the old-fashioned 4x50 AC! Thanks for posting the video, it helped a lot.
19580822 Melted and shredded rubber is nasty stuff and real time consuming to clean. A seized pulley is a sure fire way to make a lot of smoke and destroy a belt. Hopefully it's just the freewheel bearing in the clutch pulley which can easily be pressed out without evacuating the system. Worse case scenario the clutch plate seized locking the pulley to the A/C compressor and the compressor bearings are seized. In that case it's going to get pricey. At least older vehicles give you the option of a belt without A/C on newer vehicles you have to pull the compressor and install a bypass pulley.
+19580822 4x 50 a/c ? are you talking about rolling the windows down? hah, yep,I'm from ga. too. I thought catywampus was an official word, just like ain't, is proper English.
I wouldn't live anywhere else, Donnie. Now, repeat after me: Ahm fixin to fix that thingamabob cuz it looks a little cattywompus. Later, we kin go git a co-cola.
hi i have A honda accord 98 with the check engine light on also when i drive it shuts off then start back up in 10 minutes what could be the problem. please help
Not sure what i'm doing wrong here... but after replacing the alternator belt, lifting alternator back up, tightening the bolts and tensioner, the belt still seems too loose...i dont want to start it up & destroy my brand new belt...Help Please!!!!
+Brett Schappaugh Being too tight is just as bad as being too loose and can destroy the accessory bearings. If there isn't enough tension you will hear the belt chirp or squeal. If you don't feel confident setting the belt tension by hand inexpensive belt tension gauges are available that will work in those tight quarters. Search for Krikit tension gauge.
+Bushougoma i know all that but i think somewhere in the midst i knocked the tensioner out of place...im thinking i will have to remove the alternator to re align it because as of now the tensioner isnt moving the alternator up or down period as it would if it was in place properly
Brett Schappaugh Did you loosen the lower nut a few turns before using the tensioner bolt? If not it won't move properly. There's not much to misalign the alternator tensioner bolt threads into the other end of a special fastener which is secured by the lower nut.
+Bushougoma Yes i loosened all the bolts, but i accidentally went too far with the tensioner bolt and it came out, so the piece that holds it in place i believe needs to be put back how it belongs so im thinking ill have to take my alternator off to access the bottom of it
Any name brand aftermarket belt will do fine stay away from no name house brands. I've always been happy with Gates belts. I've used their drive and timing belts with no complaints.
id been having the squealing sound coming from my engine from low tension on my alternator belt this video showed me how to fix it and i greatly thank yo fro that. the car is my only way to work. So again thank you very much for taking the time to make this video.
These engines rotate counter clockwise so the old place a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt, lay it against something solid, and bump the starter trick won't work. If you don't have an impact get ready to put in some effort. Make sure you have a balancer holding tool many aftermarket companies sell them and they're inexpensive. You'll also need a length of 3/4" pipe for your breaker bar to get enough leverage on the bolt 6 to 7 feet is plenty. Attempting to tighten the crank bolt on the new balancer by hand without the proper holding tool by holding the outer pulley with a strap or chain wrench for example will damage the rubber dampening ring.
Thanks for advice man, I just tried to loosen it, I had the engine pinned so it wouldn't turn with one ratchet and pipe, and I had another ratchet with an extension and a jackstand and a 4ft cheater bar I got a home depot. Bad news is I just snapped the extension clean off, its stuck in socket. I Need to tap it out. I'm working in Arizona heat which sucks too. The extension was a cheap one, I need to go buy a craftman or a snapon if I can find and afford one, and pray that they won't snap either.
Try to use the shortest extension possible the longer the extension the more torque it robs from the fastener. You can feel the additional twist it adds when using a cheater pipe.
I wasn't able to give it a firm enough push due to the camera being in the way sorry about that. The tension spec I gave is for a new belt that hasn't broken in on the pulleys yet. A new belt will lose it's tension (it's deflection will increase) a bit as it breaks in and seats itself into the pulley grooves. The actual manufacturer spec for a new belt is 0.20-0.28 inches. After the belt has broken in it will settle into the 0.32-0.41 inch range which is the deflection for a broken in (used belt). Setting a new belt to the used belt spec will cause the belt to slip and squeal shortly after installation in many cases.
Thanks for imparting your automotive knowledge for the PS belt removal. It took me about 15 minutes, and it felt great to not pay a mechanic to do it. 👍
I’m about to wish me luck!
Thank you bro because of you I learned the starter replacement and now this...you helped me build courage and now I even work on my honda fit and ford explorer thank you :)
Glad I could help.
Glad I'm not the only one building courage haha
Thank you so much for doing a video on this topic! I had no problems with finding videos on changing a power steering pump or alternator. Only you have a video on belt replacement and especially the amount of deflection to measure on the belts for overtightness! I liked the explanation of belt squeal during start up and if it continues. I enjoy working on my newly purchased 1992 Honda Accord. It's all new to me. I appreciate your help and building my confidence in saving money. Thanks
This is the real deal. Excellent step by step and close up pics. Thanks for the info on tension too! That was pretty hard to find anything about it. New belts and no more squeaks!! I would add that you should 10wd40 all the bolts before hand because they can get pretty stuck. I did that and waited a bit and it seemed to work well. I have a 2002 Honda Accord.
i had to get a new belt that bypassed the ac pulley because it was squealing like a mofo. this video got me through doing this by myself! thank you for posting!
What belt u go with ? My shits the exact same Ik it’s been 7 years lmao
I replaced the starter on my daughter's 96 Accord after watching your video on that subject. I then replaced the distributor on her car after watching your video on replacing the seals, with the notes on the OBD2 distinction being critical.
For the distributor, I noted your comment about the D-shaft inside the distributor, which told me that I simply needed to ensure the drive cam orientation of the new unit was identical to the old unit it it came out of the block. There's that groove that's only one the one side of the cam.
I didn't remove the cap from the old unit, because I intended to simply swap the plug wires across one at a time to eliminate the possibility of confusion or crossed wires. The only problem I experienced was that of the two plastic connectors, I didn't ensure that the 4-pin connector was fully seated, so the engine didn't fire up when I turned the key. That was a seriously uncooperative connector.
Next, I think I may have to replace her alternator, because when I was diagnosing her distributor problem, I once saw a small wisp of smoke curl up from the alternator, and now she has reported that she occasionally smells electrical smoke.
Pulling the two belts are obviously essential steps in that process, with what looks like removing and replacing the fastening bolts and a couple of electrical connections.
Thanks for your thoroughness and attention to detail, with your concise explanations.
Check the B+ terminal and make sure it's tight and free of corrosion also check the contacts on the voltage regulator connector for any corrosion or burn marks.
If the connections are fine the problem is internal.
Thank you for the clear instructions and no-nonsense approach to this video. I've changed out both belts & had them tightened correctly on the first try. Where can I buy you a beer?
I like your real time style. I shows the simple man how this work really goes. I hope that you just traded cars and don’t have to work on your Accord anymore. You have given me so many “heads up” before I jump into a project on my car🤔thank you
It's not my car it's a family members and he still brings it to me from time to time. He refuses to part with it these older Hondas just keep going and when something does go wrong it's usually inexpensive to fix.
thanks for the reply, I will be watching your channel for more projects in the future. thanks again
Well at least you know what to expect before going in. Nothing's worse than having the vehicle apart only to realize you need more parts or tools to continue.
Thanks For Watching.
Great Video. Good editing and excellent work. This helped me completely change my alternator belt after recently purchasing this small car after selling my big ole' ford truck that just needed one ratchet to release the tensioner to replace the belt!
Wish you had an alternator replacement video. Here is a great tip from "general Mechanic" you need to tap the bushing into the upper mount hole in order to fit new alternator in place
great video I probably could have figured it out but this video gave me the confidence to just do it and do it correctly. Thank you
Great video! Got the information I needed.
Looks just about the same for my CB7 accord.
F22/h22 motors are similar.
I've used this guide to great success. Thank you.
Thanks. I've got a harness holding the power steering and alternator. None of the other videos told me how to loosen the alternator/compressor belt. Now I can get to me water pump.
thanks for the video. It really helped me replace my alternator belt with the quickness.
thanks for this video. just got AC work done on the car and got it back now the belts are squealing so I'm replacing both same time. isn't life wonderful? also gained a check engine light.
thank u for making this video! it was very helpful! the damn mechanic wanted to charge me 88$ just to change power steering belt. dang,I think I can do it in less than 30 minutes.thnx again.
I am working on a '92 Honda Accord. I had to replace a bad alternator so I puled the power steering pump and disabled the SRS as the book recommends. Even after I loosened all alternator bolts, the alt belt was practically impossible to pull off the alt. With the new alt on and loose, I could not slip the belt over the alt. I ended up tearing the belt (never mind why or how) and had to buy a new one. Now that I have the new one, how do I get the alt belt back on if I'm just going to have the same issue trying to slip it over the alt pulley?
Attempting to pry a belt on usually results in damage.
Back out the adjusting bolt as much as possible and push the alternator all the way down.
With the belt sitting on the crank and compressor pulleys properly it will be tight but you should be able to pull the belt over the alternator pulley by hand.
If the belt still won't fit I'd verify if you have the proper belt also verify that the diameter of the new alternators pulley is the same as the old one.
Hello and thank you for this helpful info, currently my car starts squeaking while I press on the breaks at a red light. I’m thinking of replacing both. I wanted to know if both belts you used for this video are k060439?
Squealing when applying the brakes usually indicates that your brake pads are worn. There is a piece of metal called a wear indicator on each pad that contacts the rotor when most of the pad material is gone.
Bushougoma thank you for your reply, sorry if I sounded confusing I wrote this really late after work. The sound doesn’t seem to be from my breaks because my tires aren’t in rotation when the squealing happens, my breaks are pressed, not moving at a red light, and it sounds to be from the belts I just don’t know which one so I’m using your video to help in replacing both.
It could be a worn belt, a belt without enough tension, or misaligned pulleys. The easiest way to tell if it's an alignment or tension problem is to carefully spray some water on the underside of the belt with the engine running if the squealing gets worse it's a tension problem if it improves it's an alignment problem. It could also be a bad harmonic balancer (crank pulley) make sure the pulley is running true (not wobbling) and the rubber dampener ring that connects the outer pulley to the inner pulley is in good shape.
Bushougoma ok will do thank you very much
I forgot also give the pulleys a quick spin with the belts off to check the bearings they can also make noise when they fail.
Nailed this video! Perfect, helped me fix my lose issue, love it
Good video! Thorough and easy to follow.
I am assuming you're using impact sockets? A reg 12mm short socket for the bottom nut is too short and I have a deep socket now and it just seems to be rounding the nut. Is there a better socket to use and it is nearly impossible to get my hands in there. I even had to remove my power steering reservoir to get in there.
This is for 4 cylinders only. Not the V6 honda accords. On the V6, you have to remove an engine mount and jack the engine up 1/2 inch as well as remove all three belts. But good video for the 4 cylinders
Such a stupid design on my V6, why in gods name would they make it so you have to lift the engine, they couldn't have put it on an angle to avoid that. So dumb.
When you are loosening bolts for the power steering pump what does the 2nd fastener bolt look like on the other side
Wow, this was a really great video! You answered all the questions I didn't know to ask! Thank you!
Thanks for the helpful video, very detailed but straight to the point keep it up
great informational video, very clear, this went amazingly smooth for what i went through before lol
WE NEED MORE... WE NEED MORE... WE NEED MORE!!
I'm having a problem getting my new alternator in. Just like you were having trouble when the top pivot bolt are was extremely tight and hard to fit the alternator inside. How did you get it in?
If you're reinstalling the original alternator it will fit back into the bracket if you're replacing it there is an extra step.
Press the bushing that goes through the top bolt back in with a C clamp or hammer and a block of wood. The bushing comes out and makes contact with the alternator body when the top bolt is tightened.
Bushougoma thanks alot! I will do that Asap👌
I had to do my alternator belt I did everything by the video but by the time I put everything back together none of my power on my car Works only my emergency lights what problem is this
What is the sizing for the power steering belt
I saw one belt part number is k060439. What is the part number of the power steeling belt? Thanks
Thanks for the help Bushougoma - changed my alternator and belts today. You're vid helped tremendously. Keep up the good work!
Great detailed jnstructions!
Good information sir. Thank you. My girlfriend has a 1997 so this was very helpful to us.
Are these belts the same size?
What is the power steering belt hooked up with?
I need this belt size to buy it please help
I learned a lot. Thank you.
As usual, great video. Btw how long is your breaker bar? Ive been checking to buy one, I want to have the ideal length
My car started squealing after I changed the alternator belt. From articles online, I'm guessing it's not tight enough. It squeals when I crank it for a few seconds then stops. I pressed it and it doesn't seem loose. Is there another way to determine if it's too loose? I don't want to tighten it too much.
New belts will gain a bit of slack after they've broken into the grooves of the pulleys. Which is why the belts are tensioned a bit tighter to compensate for the break in.
Around 1/2" of deflection between the pulleys is normal.
hi i have a 95 acura integra i change mines but every time i turn it on it revs very high an idk what to do any tips or help
This looks like it'll apply almost directly to a 93 as well. I'll probably have learned for myself before anyone responds, but my power steering appear to have some kind of blockage somewhere in the system; fluid appears to foam and flow back from the pump into the reservoir after killing the engine. I want to try removing the power steering belt so that I don't risk additional damage to the PS system with the pump not getting lubricated with fluid. Hope I can still manage to steer.
Make sure that you have Honda power steering fluid! The same thing happened to my Honda when I used regular fluid. Get a straw or something n suck that old stuff out,n try to clean that screen as good as you can.then replace with genuine Honda fluid. It fixed my problem.
Thanks for the video,helped alot!
i have a 96 accord with a squealing problem. i have a new belt set that i had the auto repair shop put in, and have gone back multiple times to get them to fix it. this should help, thanks!
Carefully spray the underside of the belt with water if the squealing gets worse you have a tension problem if it improves you have a belt alignment problem. If there is no change it's likely an accessory bearing problem.
@@Bushougoma cool, thanks!
Love your videos. Amazing presentation! I have this car, so this is perfect. Going to attempt the fuel filter replacement. What a bitch its going to be. Doesn't help that my car is rusty as hell in the engine bay.
Another ones coming out on Monday. TH-cam finally fixed the video processing issues so I could post it.
Bro I need your help I replaced my serpentine belt on my 91 accord its a brand new gates belt for ac/alternator the thing is it keeps squealing even tho its brand new... does it mean too tight? Or loose? Please respond back thank you.
Squealing usually means either the belt is too loose, isn't seated properly on the pulleys due to an installation error or pulley misalignment, or one of the accessory bearings is bad.
***** What is an accessory bearing? I had serpentine belt replaced and tightened and still getting squealing...How do I check if accessory bearing is the problem? Thanks
Benjamin Brisjar One of three things commonly cause belt noise. A slipping belt, misaligned pulleys, or bad bearings in a component of the belt drive system.
To check the pulley bearings remove the belt and spin the pulley of the accessory by hand it should spin smoothly and quietly with no roughness. Now check for end play you shouldn't be able to move the pulley up, down, or side to side.
Noise, roughness, or excessive movement means the bearings are bad and the component should be replaced.
***** Thank you so much! You are great!
You have to put belt dressing on a new belt
The hardest thing about working on this 96 honda is honesty the cramped space this car had little wiggle room to work
Awesome Videos Man ! Very Helpful and Informative !
I have a 92 honda accord is it similar
Thank you for this!!
I have a '98 Accord w/2.3L engine. Same procedure? Everything in the video looks similar, just not sure of the locations of some of the bolts. The PS belt had broken and damaged the alt belt. All pulleys are now full of burnt rubber between the ribs. It will probably take a couple of hours just to clean up the pulleys before I can install the new belts. What a mess!
There's no tension adjusting bolt on the power steering pump you just loosen the two mounting bolts and pry back with a breaker bar to apply tension then re tighten the mounting bolts.
***** Thanks for the reply. Yes, it wasn't difficult at all. The most difficult part about it was reinstalling that darned splash shield LOL! I had to get under the car to clean the burnt rubber from the pulleys, as I stated earlier. While doing so, I also noticed that the AC pulley looked a little cattywompus (that's southern for misaligned), and I could not turn it by hand. Not having the time or $$$ to R+R the clutch and/or compressor, I just bought a belt for the alternator only. No AC during a Georgia summer... just have to deal with it and use the old-fashioned 4x50 AC! Thanks for posting the video, it helped a lot.
19580822
Melted and shredded rubber is nasty stuff and real time consuming to clean. A seized pulley is a sure fire way to make a lot of smoke and destroy a belt.
Hopefully it's just the freewheel bearing in the clutch pulley which can easily be pressed out without evacuating the system.
Worse case scenario the clutch plate seized locking the pulley to the A/C compressor and the compressor bearings are seized. In that case it's going to get pricey.
At least older vehicles give you the option of a belt without A/C on newer vehicles you have to pull the compressor and install a bypass pulley.
+19580822 4x 50 a/c ? are you talking about rolling the windows down? hah, yep,I'm from ga. too. I thought catywampus was an official word, just like ain't, is proper English.
I wouldn't live anywhere else, Donnie. Now, repeat after me: Ahm fixin to fix that thingamabob cuz it looks a little cattywompus. Later, we kin go git a co-cola.
It's a 24" though I only end up using it in places where my impact won't fit nowadays.
Thanks For Watching.
If I just need to install alternator belt, do I have to remove the power steering belt?
Yes because the power steering belt is on the front of the crank pulley.
hi i have A honda accord 98 with the check engine light on also when i drive it shuts off then start back up in 10 minutes what could be the problem. please help
Erica McCall ignition switch 17 bucks on ebay
Not sure what i'm doing wrong here... but after replacing the alternator belt, lifting alternator back up, tightening the bolts and tensioner, the belt still seems too loose...i dont want to start it up & destroy my brand new belt...Help Please!!!!
+Brett Schappaugh Being too tight is just as bad as being too loose and can destroy the accessory bearings. If there isn't enough tension you will hear the belt chirp or squeal.
If you don't feel confident setting the belt tension by hand inexpensive belt tension gauges are available that will work in those tight quarters. Search for Krikit tension gauge.
+Bushougoma i know all that but i think somewhere in the midst i knocked the tensioner out of place...im thinking i will have to remove the alternator to re align it because as of now the tensioner isnt moving the alternator up or down period as it would if it was in place properly
Brett Schappaugh
Did you loosen the lower nut a few turns before using the tensioner bolt? If not it won't move properly.
There's not much to misalign the alternator tensioner bolt threads into the other end of a special fastener which is secured by the lower nut.
+Bushougoma Yes i loosened all the bolts, but i accidentally went too far with the tensioner bolt and it came out, so the piece that holds it in place i believe needs to be put back how it belongs so im thinking ill have to take my alternator off to access the bottom of it
Thanks for the great videos! Keep it up!
I currently owned a 1999 accord,
But undecided
Should I buy the belts
Dealer?
American made?
Import?
Any name brand aftermarket belt will do fine stay away from no name house brands.
I've always been happy with Gates belts. I've used their drive and timing belts with no complaints.
It's not this belt but the one above it is the one I'm having issues with, what's that one called?
The power steering belt.
id been having the squealing sound coming from my engine from low tension on my alternator belt this video showed me how to fix it and i greatly thank yo fro that. the car is my only way to work. So again thank you very much for taking the time to make this video.
Really helpful man thank you
Thanks a lot, i know now how to check the proper belt tension of my honda accord 1994 ... :-)
Good video. It was a great help. Thanks.
Nice man helps a lot
its better if you lookup the diagram for the tension bolts
Helped me replace!
My power steering belt keeps jumping off
Helpful
4 beaters 4 ever
badass video man! the thanks. I need to do this because I need to remove the harmonic balancer on mine that went bad. thanks bud
These engines rotate counter clockwise so the old place a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt, lay it against something solid, and bump the starter trick won't work.
If you don't have an impact get ready to put in some effort. Make sure you have a balancer holding tool many aftermarket companies sell them and they're inexpensive. You'll also need a length of 3/4" pipe for your breaker bar to get enough leverage on the bolt 6 to 7 feet is plenty.
Attempting to tighten the crank bolt on the new balancer by hand without the proper holding tool by holding the outer pulley with a strap or chain wrench for example will damage the rubber dampening ring.
Thanks for advice man, I just tried to loosen it, I had the engine pinned so it wouldn't turn with one ratchet and pipe, and I had another ratchet with an extension and a jackstand and a 4ft cheater bar I got a home depot. Bad news is I just snapped the extension clean off, its stuck in socket. I Need to tap it out. I'm working in Arizona heat which sucks too. The extension was a cheap one, I need to go buy a craftman or a snapon if I can find and afford one, and pray that they won't snap either.
Try to use the shortest extension possible the longer the extension the more torque it robs from the fastener. You can feel the additional twist it adds when using a cheater pipe.
Great advice brother, thank you! I will do as you advised.
Sons of Eden how'd it go?
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thats not even a 1/4 of deflection on the alternator looks too tight ??
I wasn't able to give it a firm enough push due to the camera being in the way sorry about that.
The tension spec I gave is for a new belt that hasn't broken in on the pulleys yet. A new belt will lose it's tension (it's deflection will increase) a bit as it breaks in and seats itself into the pulley grooves. The actual manufacturer spec for a new belt is 0.20-0.28 inches.
After the belt has broken in it will settle into the 0.32-0.41 inch range which is the deflection for a broken in (used belt).
Setting a new belt to the used belt spec will cause the belt to slip and squeal shortly after installation in many cases.