Tell me, were you entirely happy with the mauve-coloured ribbon 🎀on the back of the bonnet. Perhaps it's the video quality; the strength of the hue seemed noticeable to me.
Yes, the color match was perfect but the lights are close to the figure at the top of the inside of the spray booth and are probably having an effect on the camera's color perception at certain angles.
Good afternoon. I enjoyed watching your video on restoring the bisque figure. Can you please share with me where I can purchase the epoxy you used to repair the chips and cracks and the brand of paints. Thanks you for any assistance.
The comments section of my newer videos have a list of links to most of the tools and materials I use. Here's a link to one of my newer videos: th-cam.com/video/SBDq4YClRY8/w-d-xo.html
What type of paints do you use on what type of figurine or statue that you work on. I have acrylic paints and just wondered if they can be used in an airbrush?
I've listed a lot of my tools and materials in the description. The paints are listed there: Golden brand acrylic paints. So, yes, you can use your acrylic paints in an airbrush if you thin it to the proper proportion to do so.
Nice color matching! I like how you can really control the flow of the paint, to a very fine controlled area. Would you mind me asking which airbrush and size tip (and pressure setting) you used? Thx
I use Iwata airbrushes. I have several but the one I use the most for jobs like this is: model HP-CH HK. I don't know the tip size. I just use the one that came with it. Pressure setting is between 20-30 psi.
Mesmerizing. Many thanks for posting. You are a master! Can you please tell me what kind of glue and paint to use? How can I get the glazed look--is there a way to mimic it for an at home repair? I have a broken Franz vase. :(
Thank you for the praise. I appreciate it very much. The bonding agent I use depends on the material that needs to be bonded. On this piece, which is fine porcelain, I used a product called HXTL, a 2-part water clear epoxy formulated for repairing glass. Since good porcelain is almost the same as glass it works very well. When I need to repaint an area, on porcelain, I first create a base for the paint to adhere to with Sylmasta's Cold Glaze System (a 2-part catalyst-cured acrylic resin), sanded so the paint can grip it. Then I use Goldens brand acrylic paints to redecorate, usually with an airbrush. Then that is covered with a minimum of 3 heavy coats of the Cold Glaze. When the glaze is cured (over night) it is sanded and buffed with Micro Mesh sanding systems, with grits starting at 2500 and going through six finer grits up to 12000. That will give you the glass-like finish of a real glaze. By the way, none of the products mentioned above can be found in your local hardware store. They (aside from the paint) have to be ordered on line. Unfortunately, ALL the bonding agents and ALL the clear coatings one can purchase at the local hardware or art store WILL discolor with age. The bottom line is: this is not something I would recommend an amateur to try for a repair at home.
Thanks Kelleen. I use many different kinds of masking and masking materials. On this repair I'm using a latex based masking medium. The brand doesn't matter. It's sold in art supply stores. Mostly this masking medium is used by water color artist. It is painted on, then air-dried, and when done it is rubbed off with the fingers.
I did not make the one in this video. That is a dental spatula. You can buy them on line. I got mine from another restorer friend. This spatula is now two different spatulas. The pointy end broke off, so I made a new handle for it from a 1/4 inch steel rod. I cut a slot into the end of the rod, then put the broken-off blade into it. Then I drilled a couple of holes through the rod and blade, used to rivet the blade into place. The other end of the original broken spatula included the whole rest of the tool, so I just made a wooden handle for it.
The clear "glue" is Hxtal epoxy, which I use to bond porcelain. The white stuff (putty) is Milliput epoxy putty. I use it as a fill but it's also a bonding agent.
Hi Martin, have you ever come across a completely lost porcelain hand or arm and need to re-sculpt the arm? Do you also use the milliputt to sculpt or do you use something else? I'm just amazed at what you do. Thank you :)
Yes, I do come across this situation fairly often. Generally, what I use to sculpt a missing piece depends on how large that piece is and what type of ceramic the thing is made of. For high-fired ceramics (porcelain) I use A+B brand epoxy putty: which I build up more than I need and sculpt down to the final shape. If possible I might take a mold from another, unbroken, part of the piece I'm working on. For softer, low-fired ceramics (terracotta), I might use Milliput epoxy putty. Sometimes it's a process of building-up the missing piece around a wire armature. Sometimes I use a mold to make the missing piece.
can porcelain be sanded down? I found a pair of antique porcelain lamp bodies and the lip/nipple at the top- 1 is much higher so I am having a hard time finding a vase cap to cover it. I am wondering if a dremel tool would do the trick?
Porcelain is extremely hard. You need to use a diamond tool to grind it down. There are Dremel diamond bits that'll do the trick. That's what I use. Porcelain will dull any metal tools you try to use on it.
Absolutely superb. You are very talented. Thank you for showing us.
I am very impressed! Your customer must have been very happy.
Such attention to detail! Your color matching is spot on. Well done!
EXCEPTIONAL WORK!!!! I'm IMPRESSED!!!!! Lots of HOURS in viewing the "before" photos!!! What patience and TIME!!!!
Thank you very much.
its truly amazing what you do. I have two pieces I am going to try to repair. So I am watching all of your videos!!
You've got skills. Respect. That been said the figurine's face is CRREEEPPPPPYYY as hell. It clearly wasn't made to be looked at from the bottom.
You are so talented! Great job!👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Perfect and such attention to detail
You're the master of restoration!
Wow, that was really cool! Super talented.
Ur videos are my favorite
A gorgeous piece and beautiful restoration work.
Excellent job love the video thanks. George in uk.👍🇬🇧
Excellent repair work. Well done!
Thank you very much, Juan.
Tell me, were you entirely happy with the mauve-coloured ribbon 🎀on the back of the bonnet. Perhaps it's the video quality; the strength of the hue seemed noticeable to me.
Yes, the color match was perfect but the lights are close to the figure at the top of the inside of the spray booth and are probably having an effect on the camera's color perception at certain angles.
Good afternoon. I enjoyed watching your video on restoring the bisque figure.
Can you please share with me where I can purchase the epoxy you used to repair the chips and cracks and the brand of paints.
Thanks you for any assistance.
The comments section of my newer videos have a list of links to most of the tools and materials I use.
Here's a link to one of my newer videos:
th-cam.com/video/SBDq4YClRY8/w-d-xo.html
What type of paints do you use on what type of figurine or statue that you work on. I have acrylic paints and just wondered if they can be used in an airbrush?
I've listed a lot of my tools and materials in the description. The paints are listed there: Golden brand acrylic paints. So, yes, you can use your acrylic paints in an airbrush if you thin it to the proper proportion to do so.
Nice color matching! I like how you can really control the flow of the paint, to a very fine controlled area. Would you mind me asking which airbrush and size tip (and pressure setting) you used? Thx
I use Iwata airbrushes. I have several but the one I use the most for jobs like this is: model HP-CH HK. I don't know the tip size. I just use the one that came with it. Pressure setting is between 20-30 psi.
@@marsgitar Thx so much!
Mesmerizing. Many thanks for posting. You are a master!
Can you please tell me what kind of glue and paint to use? How can I get the glazed look--is there a way to mimic it for an at home repair? I have a broken Franz vase. :(
Thank you for the praise. I appreciate it very much.
The bonding agent I use depends on the material that needs to be bonded. On this piece, which is fine porcelain, I used a product called HXTL, a 2-part water clear epoxy formulated for repairing glass. Since good porcelain is almost the same as glass it works very well.
When I need to repaint an area, on porcelain, I first create a base for the paint to adhere to with Sylmasta's Cold Glaze System (a 2-part catalyst-cured acrylic resin), sanded so the paint can grip it. Then I use Goldens brand acrylic paints to redecorate, usually with an airbrush. Then that is covered with a minimum of 3 heavy coats of the Cold Glaze. When the glaze is cured (over night) it is sanded and buffed with Micro Mesh sanding systems, with grits starting at 2500 and going through six finer grits up to 12000. That will give you the glass-like finish of a real glaze. By the way, none of the products mentioned above can be found in your local hardware store. They (aside from the paint) have to be ordered on line. Unfortunately, ALL the bonding agents and ALL the clear coatings one can purchase at the local hardware or art store WILL discolor with age.
The bottom line is: this is not something I would recommend an amateur to try for a repair at home.
Once again and great and enlightening video. Can you tell me, please, what you use for a masking medium?
Thanks Kelleen. I use many different kinds of masking and masking materials. On this repair I'm using a latex based masking medium. The brand doesn't matter. It's sold in art supply stores. Mostly this masking medium is used by water color artist. It is painted on, then air-dried, and when done it is rubbed off with the fingers.
Hey sir.. Amazing work indeed!! How do you make the new colors match the old ones so perfect?
Thank you for the compliment! Color matching comes from many years of practice and a lot of patience.
How did you make your little aputtt applying Sculpting tool
I did not make the one in this video. That is a dental spatula. You can buy them on line. I got mine from another restorer friend. This spatula is now two different spatulas. The pointy end broke off, so I made a new handle for it from a 1/4 inch steel rod. I cut a slot into the end of the rod, then put the broken-off blade into it. Then I drilled a couple of holes through the rod and blade, used to rivet the blade into place. The other end of the original broken spatula included the whole rest of the tool, so I just made a wooden handle for it.
amazing - i have minor repair to do - what is the glue you used ? thanks Brenda
The clear "glue" is Hxtal epoxy, which I use to bond porcelain. The white stuff (putty) is Milliput epoxy putty. I use it as a fill but it's also a bonding agent.
Hi Martin, have you ever come across a completely lost porcelain hand or arm and need to re-sculpt the arm? Do you also use the milliputt to sculpt or do you use something else? I'm just amazed at what you do. Thank you :)
Yes, I do come across this situation fairly often. Generally, what I use to sculpt a missing piece depends on how large that piece is and what type of ceramic the thing is made of. For high-fired ceramics (porcelain) I use A+B brand epoxy putty: which I build up more than I need and sculpt down to the final shape. If possible I might take a mold from another, unbroken, part of the piece I'm working on. For softer, low-fired ceramics (terracotta), I might use Milliput epoxy putty. Sometimes it's a process of building-up the missing piece around a wire armature. Sometimes I use a mold to make the missing piece.
@@marsgitar Thank you for replying back. Can't wait for the next video.
bravo,master....
can porcelain be sanded down? I found a pair of antique porcelain lamp bodies and the lip/nipple at the top- 1 is much higher so I am having a hard time finding a vase cap to cover it. I am wondering if a dremel tool would do the trick?
Porcelain is extremely hard. You need to use a diamond tool to grind it down. There are Dremel diamond bits that'll do the trick. That's what I use. Porcelain will dull any metal tools you try to use on it.
thanks, I would have guessed it was fragile
Hi. This is Corrie Wilkins. I just want to new. How do i clean my porcelain doll's face arms and legs.
Corrie: I would suggest you run this question by a doll collector forum for an expert answer for your specific doll.
@@marsgitar Hi. Thank you for helping me. I will do so. Have a good day