I have collected Danish porcelain for over 45 years - this repair was a joy to watch, and, I know that it was a labour of love, for you. That figurine would have retailed (before 2008) in the 1,500.⁰⁰ (USD) range. I say this because the research, design and execution of the original speciman at Royal Copenhagen is without parallel. I would ask the viewers to take the time to pause the clip and observe the nuance of colour all over the 'white' area, and also, the where the periphery of the black/brown patch shows a subtley feathered edge - thus mimicking the mixing of white and coloured fur. The RC modeller used to source an actual dog of the breed being designed, and study the movements, the muscles, the skeleton and the favoured poses of the dog. A Royal Copenhagen, Bing & Grøndahl, or a Dahl-Jensen figurine will provide joy for a lifetime. It is wonderful to see your talent. I never object to purchasing a figurine that requires repair, especially a rare or an expensive model. I live in Toronto Ontario Canada, the restorer that is on retainer for The Royal Ontario Museum and The Gardiner Museum of Ceramic performs this level of work for collectors and aficionados alike. Thank you for sharing. GJS
I started watching your channel about 2 years ago when searching for Milliput uses. I look forward to your videos, I've learned so much about repairing china, pottery etc. Amazed you don't have more viewers. You're a true master of this art.....
Wow, you’re terrific. I’ve restored plaster statues for churches, but had no idea porcelain could be repaired in such a flawless manner. I just assumed that once porcelain was broken, the best that could be done was to glue the pieces back together and accept the visible cracks. I’m looking forward to watching more of your work.
Phenomenal work! So fascinating to see how beautiful the dog came back to form! Thank you! Will be watching your channel as I carefully fix a unique deep red patina bull that fell off the shelf. We were surprised that it was porcelain and thought it was a delicate metal! 😳 Determined to save this bull that has sentimental value. ❤️💯
Martin, I don’t remember in which video you have introduced the files you use for sanding but I must say you saved me so much of frustration as with sanding paper I have only damaged the glaze! After I bought similar files as I saw in your video, I am so happy as it works without damaging the piece ❤ Thank you again!
Please may I ask you about painting two different abutting colours. Do you paint both colours before glazing, or do you paint and glaze the first colour before proceeding to the second colour? If you apply brisket directly over an area you have painted but not glazed will the paint come off with the brisket? Will it leave a hard line along the previous edge of the brisket?
usually, I put on a coat of cold glaze before painting the next color, because if I make a mistake it's difficult to wipe off the mistake without taking some of the previous coat of paint with it. (unless the two colors are not near each other). If I'm painting with a latex frisket (mask), I would protect the previous paint coat with cold glaze before applying the frisket. The latex frisket, most of the time, will not pull up the previous coat of paint. But when using an airbrush, the coating can be very thin, especially when fading out to zero, and it's possible you'll rub off some of that paint layer with your fingers. So, it's a good idea to seal each application of a different color with the sealer (cold glaze). Yes, the frisket will leave a hard edge if you paint up to that edge. Be aware that if you use masking tape as your mask, it needs to be "de-tacked" (make it lest sticky by sticking it to your jeans and pulling it off a couple times, using the lint of the fabric to make it lest sticky) before you apply it or you'll pull up the cold glaze and the previous paint layer with it!!
Thank you so very much for this information. This explains so many of the problems I have been having. I’m at the stage of painting the arm and the chest of a Lladro, one white, one grey. I’ve literally been tearing my hair out trying to figure out what was going on. I know you are aware of how difficult it is to mix Lladro greys and whites. Great to see you recently added a tutorial on Milliput. So I’m looking forward to more brilliant tutorials.
Not much one can do except re-paint and cold-glaze that area. Get yourself some MicroMesh abrasive papers. Look it up online. This won't scratch ceramic glazes. There are abrasive papers made for the doll repair industry as well. You could try those too. Good luck!
@@marsgitar thank you for your answer! I have micro mesh, but I was eager to finish sanding asap so I wasn’t careful enough. I don’t like sanding …at all 😆
Hi Martin! As I Can see ColdGlaze Pro2 is suitable for airbrush use. I wonder if a thinner is needed for mixing with Cold Glaze Pro2? Because I previously used different brand ' RUSTINS' Cold Glaze and even diluting it with 10% water, as stated in the instructions, could not achieve the result. Airbrush always clogged, requiring constant cleaning, and the thick mixture did not spray at all.. Can you help me with advise If I buy ColdGlaze Pro2 , what else do I need to buy so I can smoothly use with an airbrush? Thanks .
Yes, you need to use the thinner that Sylmasta sells for thinning their Cold Glaze Pro 2. I've used Mineral Spirits to clean up airbrushes. It would probably work as a thinner. I dilute my Cold Glaze at a one-to-one ratio, by weight. 50% CG to 50% thinner.
A list of tools and materials used is in the "description" section below the video. If you watch the video again and pay attention this time, the answer to your question is there: Hyxtal is the bonding agent.
I have collected Danish porcelain for over 45 years - this repair was a joy to watch, and, I know that it was a labour of love, for you. That figurine would have retailed (before 2008) in the 1,500.⁰⁰ (USD) range. I say this because the research, design and execution of the original speciman at Royal Copenhagen is without parallel. I would ask the viewers to take the time to pause the clip and observe the nuance of colour all over the 'white' area, and also, the where the periphery of the black/brown patch shows a subtley feathered edge - thus mimicking the mixing of white and coloured fur. The RC modeller used to source an actual dog of the breed being designed, and study the movements, the muscles, the skeleton and the favoured poses of the dog. A Royal Copenhagen, Bing & Grøndahl, or a Dahl-Jensen figurine will provide joy for a lifetime. It is wonderful to see your talent. I never object to purchasing a figurine that requires repair, especially a rare or an expensive model. I live in Toronto Ontario Canada, the restorer that is on retainer for The Royal Ontario Museum and The Gardiner Museum of Ceramic performs this level of work for collectors and aficionados alike. Thank you for sharing.
GJS
I started watching your channel about 2 years ago when searching for Milliput uses. I look forward to your videos, I've learned so much about repairing china, pottery etc. Amazed you don't have more viewers. You're a true master of this art.....
Wow, you’re terrific. I’ve restored plaster statues for churches, but had no idea porcelain could be repaired in such a flawless manner. I just assumed that once porcelain was broken, the best that could be done was to glue the pieces back together and accept the visible cracks. I’m looking forward to watching more of your work.
It’s nice to see a tue master at work! You have a new fan. Amazing work.
Beautiful restoration 👍🏻
Another superb video and result. It is so enjoyable watching you work. Thank you.
A big👍🏼👏🏻to your camera operator. Great job thank you.
Holy Moses! I am so so so astonishingly amazed! Outstanding job!
Thanks.
Hi Martin, the finished bulldog looks 👍great.
Thanks 👍 I've watched some of your videos. Keep up the good work.
@@marsgitar Hi Martin, thanks for your comment, I have great respect for your work.
Love that pup, great restoration, very informative!
Phenomenal work!
So fascinating to see how beautiful the dog came back to form!
Thank you!
Will be watching your channel as I carefully fix a unique deep red patina bull that fell off the shelf.
We were surprised that it was porcelain and thought it was a delicate metal! 😳
Determined to save this bull that has sentimental value. ❤️💯
Thanks so much for sharing the whole process-especially the painting.
Masterfully done!
What a beautiful piece.
Many thanks!
unbelievable! I'm trying to fix a broken heirloom vase :) Great tips.
Martin, I don’t remember in which video you have introduced the files you use for sanding but I must say you saved me so much of frustration as with sanding paper I have only damaged the glaze! After I bought similar files as I saw in your video, I am so happy as it works without damaging the piece ❤ Thank you again!
Another fantastic repair! ❤
Thanks. Glad you like it!
Incredible work!
Wow wow beautiful
Martin, Can you tell what cold glaze you are using?
Can't you use a Dremel to knock down the put a bit before the file and sand paper?
The files provide better access and positioning than the dremel. Also, the Dremel's sanding mediums would scratch the porcelain.
Impressive
Well done!!
Please may I ask you about painting two different abutting colours.
Do you paint both colours before glazing, or do you paint and glaze the first colour before proceeding to the second colour?
If you apply brisket directly over an area you have painted but not glazed will the paint come off with the brisket?
Will it leave a hard line along the previous edge of the brisket?
usually, I put on a coat of cold glaze before painting the next color, because if I make a mistake it's difficult to wipe off the mistake without taking some of the previous coat of paint with it. (unless the two colors are not near each other). If I'm painting with a latex frisket (mask), I would protect the previous paint coat with cold glaze before applying the frisket. The latex frisket, most of the time, will not pull up the previous coat of paint. But when using an airbrush, the coating can be very thin, especially when fading out to zero, and it's possible you'll rub off some of that paint layer with your fingers. So, it's a good idea to seal each application of a different color with the sealer (cold glaze). Yes, the frisket will leave a hard edge if you paint up to that edge. Be aware that if you use masking tape as your mask, it needs to be "de-tacked" (make it lest sticky by sticking it to your jeans and pulling it off a couple times, using the lint of the fabric to make it lest sticky) before you apply it or you'll pull up the cold glaze and the previous paint layer with it!!
Thank you so very much for this information. This explains so many of the problems I have been having. I’m at the stage of painting the arm and the chest of a Lladro, one white, one grey. I’ve literally been tearing my hair out trying to figure out what was going on. I know you are aware of how difficult it is to mix Lladro greys and whites.
Great to see you recently added a tutorial on Milliput. So I’m looking forward to more brilliant tutorials.
Would this technique work to attach a porcelain dolls broken off foot?
Yes.
@@marsgitar Thank you!!
Martin, do you have any tips what to do if I damaged glaze while sanding? 😢
Not much one can do except re-paint and cold-glaze that area. Get yourself some MicroMesh abrasive papers. Look it up online. This won't scratch ceramic glazes. There are abrasive papers made for the doll repair industry as well. You could try those too. Good luck!
@@marsgitar thank you for your answer! I have micro mesh, but I was eager to finish sanding asap so I wasn’t careful enough. I don’t like sanding …at all 😆
Hi Martin!
As I Can see ColdGlaze Pro2 is suitable for airbrush use. I wonder if a thinner is needed for mixing with Cold Glaze Pro2? Because I previously used different brand ' RUSTINS' Cold Glaze and even diluting it with 10% water, as stated in the instructions, could not achieve the result. Airbrush always clogged, requiring constant cleaning, and the thick mixture did not spray at all.. Can you help me with advise If I buy ColdGlaze Pro2 , what else do I need to buy so I can smoothly use with an airbrush?
Thanks .
Yes, you need to use the thinner that Sylmasta sells for thinning their Cold Glaze Pro 2. I've used Mineral Spirits to clean up airbrushes. It would probably work as a thinner. I dilute my Cold Glaze at a one-to-one ratio, by weight. 50% CG to 50% thinner.
Thank you!
That's interesting way to.mix the Putty
Tour a master love your Work
Reminds if the Ninks who.
Work on the First Books
Can you use sandpaper instead of file?
Yes you can but it must be the kind that doesn't scratch ceramics. I use "MicroMesh" abrasive papers. Look it up on line.
How much did you charge for that work?
I don't remember.
Hi there! Can I consult you on an issue I am havong similar to the one you repaired here....do you do that type of service online?thank you.
I do some limited consulting on line. I'll help if I can.
may i ask you what kind of airbrush do you use for the cold glaze ,
For Cold Glaze I use a Iwata HP TR-2.
@@marsgitar thank you so much ...
Do put anything the paper Towel to help wipe off excess hxzel
Like acohal
If I use anything, I use alcohol.
I gather that as the expert there has to be a reason the hole was fixed after the body was glued but wouldn't it have been easier to do it first?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️❤️
Fantastic job putting Humpty Frenchie back together . It would lick your face and wag its corkscrew tail if it was alive as a thank you .
A...maa...zing.
Ps That is one expensive little French bulldog statue
You should create a video masterclass and sell it on places like Udemy or Gumroad
Clear resin would avoid having to repaint the entire piece
Which glue are you using
A list of tools and materials used is in the "description" section below the video. If you watch the video again and pay attention this time, the answer to your question is there: Hyxtal is the bonding agent.