Just received my EV6 Turning air con only dropped the range by 4 miles. So far I'm doing an 80 mile commute on the motorway sitting around 60mph.... I'm getting 300 miles easily from a charge. Can't complain at all.
Preheating or precooling your cabin while still plugged in, takes the energy from the socket vs. the battery. Maintaining temps take less energy than the initial heat up/cool down.
Very nice video that cover most about range. But there is one thing I want to add. High Regen is not more effcient, but less efficient. Thats why german brands does not like one pedal driving. It is more efficient to coast, and use the blended brakes (that also regenerate energy) only when needed. One Pedal driving add regen that is not needed, and regen does not put all energy back in to the battery. Only like 80% of the kinetic energy. The exception is Tesla that does not have advanced blended brakes. There one pedal driving is the only way to restore energy.
Ah, Ginny… I LO❤E seeing your doggy! You've covered nearly all the suggestions I give to owners to improve their range. They do help! When I had my Nissan LEAF, after 6 years it averaged 5.18 mi/kWh. After over 5 years in my Model 3, it has averaged 4.04 mi/kW.
Thank you Ginny for making this. Really important. There is so much disinformation out there. So many combustion drivers just start driving electric cars without realising EV motoring is a totally different concept. Actually a telephone EV workshop I did with Octopus was invaluable. Also a brilliant test drive in a Kia Niro where the Tates salesman literally taught me how to drive an electric car. He demonstrated everything on the way out and then got me to drive back through country roads and urban settings to the showroom. In the end I leased a Citroen ë C4 in the end but I am eternally grateful to him and Octopus.
Nice one Ginny. Not only does this make a lot of sense for an EV driver who wants to extract the greatest range for a journey it also rings true (apart from the regenerative braking bit for ann EV or the heater from a car with an ICE) for petrol and diesel vehicles in most cases. I've had an invitation by a dealer to try some cars and hopefully I'll get the chance to try an EV, I've sat in and been a passenger in but have yet to drive a full EV. Hopefully I'll find out in a week or so.
A couple of other points worth mentioning. Firstly, wind, rain and quite simply air resistance affect all cars efficiently, not just electric as indeed is driving fast (because you are fighting a greater and greater losing battle against air resistance) but it’s very true that there is a bigger drop in efficiency for EVs on motorways than petrol or diesel cars. Second, while using regen is great for stop-start town driving or down a long hill, or any time when you know you are going to need to slow down from a decent speed, its usually better to switch it off and be ‘rolling’ on a highway - keeping regen on here often wastes more kinetic energy than you gain back.
@iscadean Thanks indeed, it takes a bit of experimentation (which is part of the fun in my mind). TBF what I mentioned was true for the Leaf 2.0 I used to dive, but different/newer cars prob manage thing differently/better.
Last summer, when temperatures were 30+, I got a predicted range of 320 miles in my 52 kWh Zoë It wasn’t ‘real world’ though - it reflected drives in to town at about 30 on country roads. Even so, I was impressed.
In our case it was more. We own the Toyota bZ4X AWD. The car it touted to have a 222-228 range. We average 260-280, due to our driving habits, and city driving. We do take a little hit when we drive to the lake, which is a more rural route.
I charge MG4 from 20% to 80% once every 7 to 10 days. My old car which was a Renault Clio needed refueling every 10-14 days but that was equivalent of 10-100% since I fill the tank. So I think I'm getting comparable range out of both and it costs about 1/5th the cost to charge the EV at night vs petrol. Biggest issue with owning an EV in Ireland is the charging infrastructure isn't as good as the UK's but there are superchargers around in the unlikely event I needed to drive from Cork to Belfast for some absurd reason in the morning.
Good video. The way I have calculated range for the last ten years in an EV is simple. For a small to medium size EV I've used a figure of 4 x the battery size to give me a bench mark on what my Maximum range would be. So for example if I have a 40Kw battery I would expect around 160 miles range and if I have a 70 Kw battery then I would expect a 280 mile rang. I know it's nowhere near scientific but it works for me and takes away some of the hype you get published by the media regarding range and can lessen the feeling of "range anxiety "
@iscadean I have an EV and my lifestyle would be easier to have increased range whether through larger battery or more efficient. Each person has their own lifestyle requirements.
The answer. Drive at at least 10mph under every speed limit, at the same time as pissing off everyone behind you and in the winter, wear 4 layers in the car as you shouldn’t turn on the heater, or you’ll lose another 10% of range. Such benefits when you are paying a small fortune for an electric car in the first place. My answer, just buy a hybrid.
High regen down hill is fine BUT in general use it is more efficient not to use the energy in the first place than to try and claw energy back AFTER you have used too much! We are getting close to 7 miles/kWh in e-Niro and KONA and have regen on low level 1 plus Auto regen if the car in front slows down....
This is always the same recommendations - good to repeat them, but very basic. But it could go so much deeper - on a long trip should I charge to 80% on every stop, or is it faster to charge less and do more steps? Or should I buy a small battery EV and hire an ICE for the few long trips I do in a year? I don't know the answers. And I am sure there are more ideas out there which I don't know about.
Our Zoe recovers energy without using the brake pedal. We stay off the brake unless the stopping is emergency. The car also shows exact kW being taken or given, as well as the usual swooping dial affair. If I watch the exact kW readout it is amazing how often energy is being recovered, not just in a braking scenario, but basically anytime the inertia force of the car changes. Brilliant. Roll on the day when friction brakes are extinct.
There are studies online and calculators (e.g. beyond tailpipe calculator) which show your emissions in an EV vs ICE. Basically though EVs cause more emissions during manufacture but over its lifetime it's like a third less than a pure ICE vehicle. The breakeven point is 12,000-15,000 miles but it depends on the blend of electricity sources (coal, oil, nuclear, solar, wind) in your area. This breakeven point will obvious lower over time as renewables increase and battery chemistries get cheaper and simpler. I have no idea what the breakeven is for a hybrid but considering it has an engine AND a battery, I'm imagining it's probably closer to ICE than EV on a graph.
An efficient ICE car requires periodic maintenance and it’s power and fuel consumption will stay healthy almost throughout its entire life making it convenient as well. EV’s tend to become less efficient right from the day you buy one, battery health.And how those depleted batteries will be disposed at the end of their life cycle is another concern. Land or water pollution. One may be fortunate to be living in a first world country where everything is supposedly done ethically. Things may not necessarily be the same in non-first world countries.
@@vikramd4619 EV batteries can go onto have a second life in static battery facilities. Failing that they'll be recycled because stuff like cobalt, lithium, copper is valuable.
Im all for EV, I do think for most people 250mile range is sweet spot, there room for battery deterioration, and the less range you get in the winter, after driving 150 to 200 miles you going to want a rest for 15mins or so, and if you can add in another 100miles in that time at a charge point I think that will fulfill most wants. The only thing i think that is overlooked with EVs, is the rich will get the long range, just becuase they can, carry these huge battery around when they likly dont need to and there also the people who likly own a home with a drive way so can easily charge overnight. And the less well off people who are more likly not going to have access to a driveway, can then only afford the shorter range EVs and then having to spend 1hrs a week at charge points. Its the one thing that I feel is going to be a bit unfair. But then I guess what else is new.
I know that preconditioning the battery can help get better range, but which EVs are able to do this. The information by the manufacturers is very sketchy.
Geez what an ordeal it must be to drive an electric car any distance. They really are only suitable for short distace use which is fine. I do cover high miles(40K a year) so might be a bit biased. Bought a LPG duster as a work horse and can easily get 850 miles to a tank of petrol and LPG. Full LPG tank £29. If EV's were even 20% as enviromentially friendly as they are made out to be maybe they have a use as a town run about. But as they are anything but zero emissions I do struggle to see the sense of them. 4 in our work and ALL of them cannot wait to get rid of them, they also are saying you need to buy them on a PCP due to their epic depereciation.
WLTP is same as MPG and as we know the claimed MPG of a car were barely comparable with real life use. In an EV, a heat pump will help in the winter months. I find 260 miles is achievable in Summer and 220 in the winter from a full charge on my 64kWh battery. Jjust like a petrol, you will not use that full range as you will recharge before reaching zero. Bonus with a home charger is that if you arrive home with only a few miles left, you can charge an EV on your driveway.
WLTP ratings tend to be 11% higher than EPA ratings and 20% higher than reality. EVs also tend to be farther off than ICE. The EPA revised their testing in 2017 and it's long overdue for the UK to do the same. I am by no means a hypermiler, but meet or beat EPA ratings with my ICEs. My Crosstrek was rated for 33 Hwy, but would consistently get over 39 on long trips. My Forester is rated for 28 hwy, but gets into the mid-30s. The same is true for my F350, Grand Cherokee, etc. I pay attention to what is going on ahead/around me, like slowing down when approaching a light well in advance so it turns green and traffic is moving before I get there without aggressive braking and acceleration. I have adaptive cruise on the vehicles I use most often and use it as much as possible.
@@Noah_E Strangely, my EV is the first car I have had that reached a total distance that fits or actually exceeded the WLTP range. My ICE cars using the combined figure gave a mileage that I never reached over all. My problem with the WLTP is that it only shows the best mileage that is achievable in warm climates. It should also have one for colder temperatures and then it would help to show people what to expect. Also it may help people see wether a Heat Pump is a worthwhile addition.
There is one word more: Supercharger. Driver must be aware, that every second public charging point is either broken, occupied, or obstructed by ICE or a non charging EV car. 0:51 the design of the lithium battery doesn't let you discharge it to 0%; I'm a big fan of your beauty though. You don't have to turn off less energy-intensive appliances, like heated seats or radio. Heavy foot does not decrease the range significantly, as long as you use the motor to slow down. 3:00 less efficient? The torque of an electric motor is high enough for any size of the battery. Look at the enormous weight of Cybertruck. The problem is rather fast tire wear. This Citroen...? What about Enyaq or maybe even Mustang? "The battery of the Ford Mustang Mach-E ER AWD has a total capacity of 98.7 kWh. The usable capacity is 91 kWh." 3:30 wrong. Better range = better car, unless you are sure the next rapid charger is working & not occupied. 5:05 sluggish mode saves tires, not the energy. It's not an internal combustion engine for goodness sake! 6:09 I love you too. 7:33 they should be heated by ethanol or vegetable oil! 7:35 heating does not reduce the power of the motor, unlike air conditioning in ICE! 7:40 the range will drop dramatically 8:35 yes, yes, yes! It's about clean air, not CO2 nonsense!
one pedal drive does not improve range,. regeneration does,. and most electric cars regenerate on the brake pedal as well as with one padel drive,. it's makes use if the exact same technology. one padel drime may have an possitiv effect on your driving stile / les agressive. that may improve range.
1-pedal driving doesn't stop a car doing regen. Put your foot down to go faster take your foot off to go slower. Going slower happens by the car delivering less power or engaging regen. My MG4 doesn't have 1-pedal driving but 2nd generation MG4s do and about the only difference between 1-pedal mode and what my car does is my car won't come to a complete standstill and will instead creep and I have to hold the brake to stop it happening. For the rest of time I'm basically just using the accelerator and will only hit the brakes to come to a more sudden stop.
@@drxym the biggest problem with one pedal driving (or lift-off regen if you like) is that is adds some not neded regen. It is more efficient to coast and let the road friction reduce speed where possible.
@@evkx I know when I have my car in heavy regen that sometimes it's too heavy - I live on a big hill and going down it, the car will actually come to a halt if I take the foot completely off the pedal. So instead I release a little so the car keeps going. It's still doing regen but it feels a bit weird since in a petrol car I'd be using the brakes instead to control the speed.
I don't see the point of trying to balance, drive differently, don't use your heating/cooling etc in the car JUST to get a bit more range. Again, this is all hassle. People just want to get in their cars and drive without having to turn this and that off, drive behind big lorries etc. Firstly, all range figures are based on a fully charged battery. Great? Nope, because firstly, they are calculated using indoor climate controlled testing making sure that the battery is at the optimum temperature and therefore best range. Secondly, these same companies tell you to NOT charge your battery to 100% because it damages your battery with a memory effect the same we see on mobile phones. So let's go back to their so called maximum ranges? If you're only allowed to charge it to 80%, then you need to calculate your real world range using 80% NOT 100%. It's cheating or rather not telling the potential buyer the full truth. If you poodle around town oniy, EV's maybe something to consider. But if you travel a lot, go on longer trips, then EV's are just not practical enough. Regenerative braking only works around town, ie places that have high volumes of traffic. Drive on a motorway, and that's not possible and the battery simply depleats.
Just not true. The batteries have built in buffers so you're never truly at 100% or 0%, so for the % it shows you, you can use all of it. The only thing to bear in mind is not leaving them sat empty off full for extended amount of time, so you just charge when you get to destination, and if you know you don't need the entire range change what % charging stops at.
@@shawing again, all you've done is reinforce my point. Currently, the battery technology is extremely in its infancy. No sooner the battery cells start to fail, the system reports it. It then can't balance the electric current and places a battery warning light to seek dealership assistance. All these electric cars will be left in breakers yards and car parters, parting out the bits ALL because of the batteries being £15k to remove, install and recalibrate. EV's are just E WASTE in car form. We're seeing it right now if you research. Ratarossa bought a 2nd hand Tesla for £7k the other week, after 48hrs, the battery needed replacing to the tune of £15k! Every EV owner is going to get caught out in this regard. I hope that you realise that Lithium is extremely toxic. How do you dispose of it? Who pays for the disposal costs? Especially after the warranty runs out? I doubt these companies will, you get to pay for it.
@@AdamForeman you can pick and choose specific examples of failure if you like but by and large they work otherwise there would be massive recalls the world over. There's also no reason to dispose of the entire battery pack either when they can be used in a 2nd life, for example a retro fit in another car or as grid storage, and when they're truly end of life, the materials can be recycled. Maybe research red wood materials and be a little inspired rather than captain pessimism 😉
@@shawing battery failures aren't classified as recalls as you full well know and that's why they are hiding that under that "get out clause". You can ask Porsche, owned by the VW group, why they are desperate to create a new fuel to keep internal combustion engines still in production? Let's not forget LPG and Ethanol E85 that's already available. EV's are manufacturered in China, THE biggest polluter in the world. Your EV's are being charged by fossil fuels and the batteries materials are being dug up by children..... I hope your proud of yourself. EV's are evil.
Ah, I get it. What your saying is compromise. Compromise on your driving style. What’s the point of all the drive modes when you can just use ECO! Compromise on your speed. The middle lane of the motorways will be hogged by EV drivers doing 60. Those poor HGV drivers are going to find life pretty difficult. The rest of us can use the third lane. The new Smart motorway. Compromise on the route. Don’t go the way you want to, go the way the car tells you. Compromise on your holiday destination. Want to follow the coast roads of Devon and Cornwall, taking in the views. Well you can’t, no chargers on route so EV drivers keep away from the coast roads. That will ease congestion a tad. Compromise on the warmth and comfort of your passengers (they can’t all hold the steering wheel or sit in the drivers seat). Compromise on your wealth and health. Firstly EV’s are dearer. Secondly for each 30/40 minute charge (when you eventually get on one due to queues, particularly in holiday season or find one that works), enjoy a coffee and cake ( but expect to pay more than on the high street). Or get a full hybrid. Easier on the wallet on purchase, lower emissions than ICE, mostly electric around built up areas, no range anxiety. Drive how you want to in whatever mode you choose. Drive the route you want to follow. Permit all your passengers to enjoy the cool AC in summer and warmth in winter. You could even play your music to keep them entertained without compromising your range. I lived the life of an EV owner/driver. A test drive, even over 48 hours does not fully prepare for life with an EV. I now have a full hybrid and beginning to enjoy the pleasure of driving again with no anxiety at all. For every 640 miles traveled I spend 5 minutes refuelling. Enough said.
For every 300 miles driving I spend 20 seconds plugging in at home and costs roughly £6, I use AC when needed, heater when needed, follow whatever route I want on long journeys and travel where possible at speed limits. I love one pedal driving as it makes driving a joy on congested British roads. I don't compromise on my wealth as I'm saving £1500 a year on fuel, £100's on servicing, tax, road charging schemes and even parking. I have been to Devon with my EV and the charging infrastructure is quite good, I also got cheap charging at the hotel I stayed in. I do a 520 mile round trip about 4 or 5 times a year and it takes no longer than it did in my previous ICE vehicle. All I can say is you must have owned the wrong EV for your day to day driving style,
Improve range? Build smaller 2-door EV's with LFP batteries. Smaller is less weight is less cost and more range. Big is . . . kinda dumb isn't it. LFP batteries should have between 5 and 10% less energie, but . . . . what you have, can be used in total. Charging to 100% and discharging to 0 without battery degredation (mostly) The LiIon battery (NMC chemestry) you better keep between 20% and 80% to keep it healthy, which gives a average use of only 60% of the total capacity.
Sort of. The non LFP do still have built in buffers so you're never really at 0% and you can drive to full empty if you really needed to, you just don't leave them at that state of charge for ages to look after the battery, so you'd charge when you got to destination. The main point being you can use 100% of the battery just charge back into that happier range after it.
@@shawing Agree, in the end, it makes the LFP battery structure more desirable. Even when it has a little less range per kg, overall performance makes up for that difference.
@@BobTheBlue well bob my car cost me the same if not slightly less than a new diesel car which I have driven for the past 30 years and a am saving over 200 a month on fuel I feel really silly that I have been duped
Informative but why doesn't anyone tell this presenter that skin tight streach jeans are not for old women.... positively awful in a negative sort of way... Did you see what I did there?
Just received my EV6
Turning air con only dropped the range by 4 miles. So far I'm doing an 80 mile commute on the motorway sitting around 60mph.... I'm getting 300 miles easily from a charge. Can't complain at all.
If you have heat pump it does not affect range much, like premium Kona.
@@toad008 I don't have a heat pump in mine
@@gordonmccartney5648 Ok. But heat pump is supposed to be more efficient and it seems good. Both EV I have had, have heat pump.
Aren't you supposed to do 70mph on a motorway?
You are prohibited from doing more than 70mph on a motorway.
Preheating or precooling your cabin while still plugged in, takes the energy from the socket vs. the battery. Maintaining temps take less energy than the initial heat up/cool down.
Very nice video that cover most about range. But there is one thing I want to add. High Regen is not more effcient, but less efficient. Thats why german brands does not like one pedal driving. It is more efficient to coast, and use the blended brakes (that also regenerate energy) only when needed. One Pedal driving add regen that is not needed, and regen does not put all energy back in to the battery. Only like 80% of the kinetic energy. The exception is Tesla that does not have advanced blended brakes. There one pedal driving is the only way to restore energy.
I’ve improved my Tesla mod 3 by 60 miles from my 340 mile range , it’s taken me a couple of months and practice, but definitely worth it 😊🏴
Yes. I have 0 Zero desire for a EV /AV Anxiety Vehicle. We went with A 2023 Prius Hybrid. 55 MPH 550 mile range. And no Anxiety
Your videos and channel are so helpful especially for new EV Users like myself
Stay safe everyone 👍
Ah, Ginny… I LO❤E seeing your doggy! You've covered nearly all the suggestions I give to owners to improve their range. They do help! When I had my Nissan LEAF, after 6 years it averaged 5.18 mi/kWh. After over 5 years in my Model 3, it has averaged 4.04 mi/kW.
Thank you Ginny for making this. Really important. There is so much disinformation out there. So many combustion drivers just start driving electric cars without realising EV motoring is a totally different concept. Actually a telephone EV workshop I did with Octopus was invaluable. Also a brilliant test drive in a Kia Niro where the Tates salesman literally taught me how to drive an electric car. He demonstrated everything on the way out and then got me to drive back through country roads and urban settings to the showroom. In the end I leased a Citroen ë C4 in the end but I am eternally grateful to him and Octopus.
Nice one Ginny. Not only does this make a lot of sense for an EV driver who wants to extract the greatest range for a journey it also rings true (apart from the regenerative braking bit for ann EV or the heater from a car with an ICE) for petrol and diesel vehicles in most cases. I've had an invitation by a dealer to try some cars and hopefully I'll get the chance to try an EV, I've sat in and been a passenger in but have yet to drive a full EV. Hopefully I'll find out in a week or so.
A couple of other points worth mentioning. Firstly, wind, rain and quite simply air resistance affect all cars efficiently, not just electric as indeed is driving fast (because you are fighting a greater and greater losing battle against air resistance) but it’s very true that there is a bigger drop in efficiency for EVs on motorways than petrol or diesel cars. Second, while using regen is great for stop-start town driving or down a long hill, or any time when you know you are going to need to slow down from a decent speed, its usually better to switch it off and be ‘rolling’ on a highway - keeping regen on here often wastes more kinetic energy than you gain back.
@iscadean Thanks indeed, it takes a bit of experimentation (which is part of the fun in my mind). TBF what I mentioned was true for the Leaf 2.0 I used to dive, but different/newer cars prob manage thing differently/better.
Last summer, when temperatures were 30+, I got a predicted range of 320 miles in my 52 kWh Zoë It wasn’t ‘real world’ though - it reflected drives in to town at about 30 on country roads. Even so, I was impressed.
I managed to add 30 miles of range on my eGolf by sitting behind large lorries, going about 60/65mph down the M1.
What were your tyres' psi?
Lorries can’t go 60/65mph. I’m quite sure they are restricted to 55mph
@@tonymaxwell303not anymorr they're not. Dual carriageway limit is 60mph.
Very good, how's your lungs?
@@djtaylorutube fair one 👍
I do the following: WLTP range = what I do under 80km/h (
In our case it was more. We own the Toyota bZ4X AWD. The car it touted to have a 222-228 range. We average 260-280, due to our driving habits, and city driving. We do take a little hit when we drive to the lake, which is a more rural route.
I'd go into anything else but a bZ4X, sorry...
@@toyotaprius79 differences is what makes the world go round.
We drove our Tesla from South Florida to Atlanta. What should have be. 10 hour trip. Turned into 16 hours. Filled with anxiety
@@zoobrizz oh I can imagine.
I charge MG4 from 20% to 80% once every 7 to 10 days. My old car which was a Renault Clio needed refueling every 10-14 days but that was equivalent of 10-100% since I fill the tank. So I think I'm getting comparable range out of both and it costs about 1/5th the cost to charge the EV at night vs petrol. Biggest issue with owning an EV in Ireland is the charging infrastructure isn't as good as the UK's but there are superchargers around in the unlikely event I needed to drive from Cork to Belfast for some absurd reason in the morning.
Good video. The way I have calculated range for the last ten years in an EV is simple. For a small to medium size EV I've used a figure of 4 x the battery size to give me a bench mark on what my Maximum range would be. So for example if I have a 40Kw battery I would expect around 160 miles range and if I have a 70 Kw battery then I would expect a 280 mile rang. I know it's nowhere near scientific but it works for me and takes away some of the hype you get published by the media regarding range and can lessen the feeling of "range anxiety "
Good points but I still want the biggest battery that I can get. The public charging infrastructure still needs to be developed and reliable.
@iscadean I have an EV and my lifestyle would be easier to have increased range whether through larger battery or more efficient.
Each person has their own lifestyle requirements.
The answer. Drive at at least 10mph under every speed limit, at the same time as pissing off everyone behind you and in the winter, wear 4 layers in the car as you shouldn’t turn on the heater, or you’ll lose another 10% of range. Such benefits when you are paying a small fortune for an electric car in the first place. My answer, just buy a hybrid.
Again an interesting video 👍thanks Ginny
High regen down hill is fine
BUT in general use it is more efficient not to use the energy in the first place than to try and claw energy back AFTER you have used too much!
We are getting close to 7 miles/kWh in e-Niro and KONA and have regen on low level 1 plus Auto regen if the car in front slows down....
Yes. I have 0 Zero desire for a EV /AV Anxiety Vehicle. We went with A 2023 Prius Hybrid. 55 MPH 550 mile range. And no Anxiety
This is always the same recommendations - good to repeat them, but very basic.
But it could go so much deeper - on a long trip should I charge to 80% on every stop, or is it faster to charge less and do more steps?
Or should I buy a small battery EV and hire an ICE for the few long trips I do in a year?
I don't know the answers. And I am sure there are more ideas out there which I don't know about.
With the Kia Niro the level of regen set doesn't affect the range because the foot brake also uses regen. Don't all EVs do this?
Our Zoe recovers energy without using the brake pedal. We stay off the brake unless the stopping is emergency. The car also shows exact kW being taken or given, as well as the usual swooping dial affair. If I watch the exact kW readout it is amazing how often energy is being recovered, not just in a braking scenario, but basically anytime the inertia force of the car changes. Brilliant. Roll on the day when friction brakes are extinct.
You really are pumping out some inane videos lately.
I like the work they do at electrifying but I am not convinced EV’s are better than hybrids considering overall and eventual pollution sources.
There are studies online and calculators (e.g. beyond tailpipe calculator) which show your emissions in an EV vs ICE. Basically though EVs cause more emissions during manufacture but over its lifetime it's like a third less than a pure ICE vehicle. The breakeven point is 12,000-15,000 miles but it depends on the blend of electricity sources (coal, oil, nuclear, solar, wind) in your area. This breakeven point will obvious lower over time as renewables increase and battery chemistries get cheaper and simpler. I have no idea what the breakeven is for a hybrid but considering it has an engine AND a battery, I'm imagining it's probably closer to ICE than EV on a graph.
An efficient ICE car requires periodic maintenance and it’s power and fuel consumption will stay healthy almost throughout its entire life making it convenient as well. EV’s tend to become less efficient right from the day you buy one, battery health.And how those depleted batteries will be disposed at the end of their life cycle is another concern. Land or water pollution. One may be fortunate to be living in a first world country where everything is supposedly done ethically. Things may not necessarily be the same in non-first world countries.
@@vikramd4619 EV batteries can go onto have a second life in static battery facilities. Failing that they'll be recycled because stuff like cobalt, lithium, copper is valuable.
Im all for EV, I do think for most people 250mile range is sweet spot, there room for battery deterioration, and the less range you get in the winter, after driving 150 to 200 miles you going to want a rest for 15mins or so, and if you can add in another 100miles in that time at a charge point I think that will fulfill most wants. The only thing i think that is overlooked with EVs, is the rich will get the long range, just becuase they can, carry these huge battery around when they likly dont need to and there also the people who likly own a home with a drive way so can easily charge overnight. And the less well off people who are more likly not going to have access to a driveway, can then only afford the shorter range EVs and then having to spend 1hrs a week at charge points. Its the one thing that I feel is going to be a bit unfair. But then I guess what else is new.
I know that preconditioning the battery can help get better range, but which EVs are able to do this. The information by the manufacturers is very sketchy.
Geez what an ordeal it must be to drive an electric car any distance. They really are only suitable for short distace use which is fine. I do cover high miles(40K a year) so might be a bit biased. Bought a LPG duster as a work horse and can easily get 850 miles to a tank of petrol and LPG. Full LPG tank £29. If EV's were even 20% as enviromentially friendly as they are made out to be maybe they have a use as a town run about. But as they are anything but zero emissions I do struggle to see the sense of them. 4 in our work and ALL of them cannot wait to get rid of them, they also are saying you need to buy them on a PCP due to their epic depereciation.
Hope you’ll invite some racing drivers for reviewing when there’s more high-performance EVs. Atm they’re a bit boring.
Additionally, using the regen feature reduces the wear and tear on the brakes.
WLTP is same as MPG and as we know the claimed MPG of a car were barely comparable with real life use. In an EV, a heat pump will help in the winter months. I find 260 miles is achievable in Summer and 220 in the winter from a full charge on my 64kWh battery. Jjust like a petrol, you will not use that full range as you will recharge before reaching zero. Bonus with a home charger is that if you arrive home with only a few miles left, you can charge an EV on your driveway.
WLTP ratings tend to be 11% higher than EPA ratings and 20% higher than reality. EVs also tend to be farther off than ICE. The EPA revised their testing in 2017 and it's long overdue for the UK to do the same. I am by no means a hypermiler, but meet or beat EPA ratings with my ICEs. My Crosstrek was rated for 33 Hwy, but would consistently get over 39 on long trips. My Forester is rated for 28 hwy, but gets into the mid-30s. The same is true for my F350, Grand Cherokee, etc. I pay attention to what is going on ahead/around me, like slowing down when approaching a light well in advance so it turns green and traffic is moving before I get there without aggressive braking and acceleration. I have adaptive cruise on the vehicles I use most often and use it as much as possible.
@@Noah_E Strangely, my EV is the first car I have had that reached a total distance that fits or actually exceeded the WLTP range. My ICE cars using the combined figure gave a mileage that I never reached over all. My problem with the WLTP is that it only shows the best mileage that is achievable in warm climates. It should also have one for colder temperatures and then it would help to show people what to expect. Also it may help people see wether a Heat Pump is a worthwhile addition.
Nice evs
There is one word more: Supercharger. Driver must be aware, that every second public charging point is either broken, occupied, or obstructed by ICE or a non charging EV car. 0:51 the design of the lithium battery doesn't let you discharge it to 0%; I'm a big fan of your beauty though.
You don't have to turn off less energy-intensive appliances, like heated seats or radio. Heavy foot does not decrease the range significantly, as long as you use the motor to slow down.
3:00 less efficient? The torque of an electric motor is high enough for any size of the battery. Look at the enormous weight of Cybertruck. The problem is rather fast tire wear.
This Citroen...? What about Enyaq or maybe even Mustang? "The battery of the Ford Mustang Mach-E ER AWD has a total capacity of 98.7 kWh. The usable capacity is 91 kWh."
3:30 wrong. Better range = better car, unless you are sure the next rapid charger is working & not occupied.
5:05 sluggish mode saves tires, not the energy. It's not an internal combustion engine for goodness sake!
6:09 I love you too.
7:33 they should be heated by ethanol or vegetable oil!
7:35 heating does not reduce the power of the motor, unlike air conditioning in ICE!
7:40 the range will drop dramatically
8:35 yes, yes, yes! It's about clean air, not CO2 nonsense!
one pedal drive does not improve range,. regeneration does,. and most electric cars regenerate on the brake pedal as well as with one padel drive,. it's makes use if the exact same technology.
one padel drime may have an possitiv effect on your driving stile / les agressive. that may improve range.
1-pedal driving doesn't stop a car doing regen. Put your foot down to go faster take your foot off to go slower. Going slower happens by the car delivering less power or engaging regen. My MG4 doesn't have 1-pedal driving but 2nd generation MG4s do and about the only difference between 1-pedal mode and what my car does is my car won't come to a complete standstill and will instead creep and I have to hold the brake to stop it happening. For the rest of time I'm basically just using the accelerator and will only hit the brakes to come to a more sudden stop.
@@drxym the biggest problem with one pedal driving (or lift-off regen if you like) is that is adds some not neded regen. It is more efficient to coast and let the road friction reduce speed where possible.
@@evkx I know when I have my car in heavy regen that sometimes it's too heavy - I live on a big hill and going down it, the car will actually come to a halt if I take the foot completely off the pedal. So instead I release a little so the car keeps going. It's still doing regen but it feels a bit weird since in a petrol car I'd be using the brakes instead to control the speed.
I hear the Chinese have a portable gas turbine generator, it will supercharge your battery if you forget to charge your car 😊
I don't see the point of trying to balance, drive differently, don't use your heating/cooling etc in the car JUST to get a bit more range. Again, this is all hassle. People just want to get in their cars and drive without having to turn this and that off, drive behind big lorries etc. Firstly, all range figures are based on a fully charged battery. Great? Nope, because firstly, they are calculated using indoor climate controlled testing making sure that the battery is at the optimum temperature and therefore best range. Secondly, these same companies tell you to NOT charge your battery to 100% because it damages your battery with a memory effect the same we see on mobile phones. So let's go back to their so called maximum ranges? If you're only allowed to charge it to 80%, then you need to calculate your real world range using 80% NOT 100%. It's cheating or rather not telling the potential buyer the full truth. If you poodle around town oniy, EV's maybe something to consider. But if you travel a lot, go on longer trips, then EV's are just not practical enough. Regenerative braking only works around town, ie places that have high volumes of traffic. Drive on a motorway, and that's not possible and the battery simply depleats.
Just not true. The batteries have built in buffers so you're never truly at 100% or 0%, so for the % it shows you, you can use all of it.
The only thing to bear in mind is not leaving them sat empty off full for extended amount of time, so you just charge when you get to destination, and if you know you don't need the entire range change what % charging stops at.
@@shawing again, all you've done is reinforce my point. Currently, the battery technology is extremely in its infancy. No sooner the battery cells start to fail, the system reports it. It then can't balance the electric current and places a battery warning light to seek dealership assistance. All these electric cars will be left in breakers yards and car parters, parting out the bits ALL because of the batteries being £15k to remove, install and recalibrate. EV's are just E WASTE in car form. We're seeing it right now if you research. Ratarossa bought a 2nd hand Tesla for £7k the other week, after 48hrs, the battery needed replacing to the tune of £15k! Every EV owner is going to get caught out in this regard. I hope that you realise that Lithium is extremely toxic. How do you dispose of it? Who pays for the disposal costs? Especially after the warranty runs out? I doubt these companies will, you get to pay for it.
@@AdamForeman you can pick and choose specific examples of failure if you like but by and large they work otherwise there would be massive recalls the world over.
There's also no reason to dispose of the entire battery pack either when they can be used in a 2nd life, for example a retro fit in another car or as grid storage, and when they're truly end of life, the materials can be recycled.
Maybe research red wood materials and be a little inspired rather than captain pessimism 😉
@@shawing battery failures aren't classified as recalls as you full well know and that's why they are hiding that under that "get out clause". You can ask Porsche, owned by the VW group, why they are desperate to create a new fuel to keep internal combustion engines still in production? Let's not forget LPG and Ethanol E85 that's already available. EV's are manufacturered in China, THE biggest polluter in the world. Your EV's are being charged by fossil fuels and the batteries materials are being dug up by children..... I hope your proud of yourself. EV's are evil.
Ah, I get it. What your saying is compromise.
Compromise on your driving style. What’s the point of all the drive modes when you can just use ECO!
Compromise on your speed. The middle lane of the motorways will be hogged by EV drivers doing 60. Those poor HGV drivers are going to find life pretty difficult. The rest of us can use the third lane. The new Smart motorway.
Compromise on the route. Don’t go the way you want to, go the way the car tells you.
Compromise on your holiday destination. Want to follow the coast roads of Devon and Cornwall, taking in the views. Well you can’t, no chargers on route so EV drivers keep away from the coast roads. That will ease congestion a tad.
Compromise on the warmth and comfort of your passengers (they can’t all hold the steering wheel or sit in the drivers seat).
Compromise on your wealth and health. Firstly EV’s are dearer. Secondly for each 30/40 minute charge (when you eventually get on one due to queues, particularly in holiday season or find one that works), enjoy a coffee and cake ( but expect to pay more than on the high street).
Or get a full hybrid. Easier on the wallet on purchase, lower emissions than ICE, mostly electric around built up areas, no range anxiety. Drive how you want to in whatever mode you choose. Drive the route you want to follow. Permit all your passengers to enjoy the cool AC in summer and warmth in winter. You could even play your music to keep them entertained without compromising your range.
I lived the life of an EV owner/driver. A test drive, even over 48 hours does not fully prepare for life with an EV. I now have a full hybrid and beginning to enjoy the pleasure of driving again with no anxiety at all. For every 640 miles traveled I spend 5 minutes refuelling. Enough said.
For every 300 miles driving I spend 20 seconds plugging in at home and costs roughly £6, I use AC when needed, heater when needed, follow whatever route I want on long journeys and travel where possible at speed limits. I love one pedal driving as it makes driving a joy on congested British roads. I don't compromise on my wealth as I'm saving £1500 a year on fuel, £100's on servicing, tax, road charging schemes and even parking. I have been to Devon with my EV and the charging infrastructure is quite good, I also got cheap charging at the hotel I stayed in. I do a 520 mile round trip about 4 or 5 times a year and it takes no longer than it did in my previous ICE vehicle. All I can say is you must have owned the wrong EV for your day to day driving style,
Improve range? Build smaller 2-door EV's with LFP batteries.
Smaller is less weight is less cost and more range. Big is . . . kinda dumb isn't it.
LFP batteries should have between 5 and 10% less energie, but . . . . what you have, can be used in total. Charging to 100% and discharging to 0 without battery degredation (mostly)
The LiIon battery (NMC chemestry) you better keep between 20% and 80% to keep it healthy, which gives a average use of only 60% of the total capacity.
Sort of. The non LFP do still have built in buffers so you're never really at 0% and you can drive to full empty if you really needed to, you just don't leave them at that state of charge for ages to look after the battery, so you'd charge when you got to destination.
The main point being you can use 100% of the battery just charge back into that happier range after it.
@@shawing Agree, in the end, it makes the LFP battery structure more desirable. Even when it has a little less range per kg, overall performance makes up for that difference.
another advert for Citroen ev rubbish car overpriced and run by price uk treasury control more tax on people
The best way to improve the range is to rip out the battery and replace it with an internal combustion engine
Strong the hate is this one is
Yes, nothing like a lungful of shit in the morning!
@@williamthomas5223 it’s not hate, rather the frustration that so many people have been taken in by the big EV con. You’ve all been duped
Empty vessels ......
@@BobTheBlue well bob my car cost me the same if not slightly less than a new diesel car which I have driven for the past 30 years and a am saving over 200 a month on fuel I feel really silly that I have been duped
Title: Battery range??? Vehicle range I think they mean…. kwh/(kwh/km)=km
Informative but why doesn't anyone tell this presenter that skin tight streach jeans are not for old women.... positively awful in a negative sort of way... Did you see what I did there?