8:15 That advice about 60% charge technically correct but no the full story - if you have an LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate) battery then the difference between keeping the car between 80 and 20 % and charging it every single opportunity to 100% is negligible, in fact Tesla recommends charging to 100% at least once per week. The hassle of constantly altering charge patterns is just not worth the payoff in miniscule battery maintenance savings.
The MSM tends to ignore that EV batteries are generally lasting for several years longer than was ever anticipated, so long as owners take a bit of care as shown in this video and the car has a thermal management system.
Best analogy is a film theatre filling up. Easy for the first 0% to 80%. After that the remaining 20% of seats are singles and dotted all over the place. Hard to find and given the time, closing in on the performance starting, panic and confusion setting in. Hence the delay in filling to 100% capacity ie charging fully.
The range display (aka guess-o-meter) is essentially the same in an ICE car. If you have a heavy foot in an ICE it will also do less miles for the energy consumed, it's just we are so used to not worrying about it due to the size of the tank and it's perhaps not quite as significant a variation as when driving an EV like you stole it. In some ways the range display is worse in an ICE as most of them stop offering a guesstimate once they reach 40/50 miles remaining.
@iscadean My last ICE had a guess-o-meter that I always exceeded because I had a light right foot. My point is that it's essentially the same as published MPG figures, drivers should not expect the MPG/WLTP range if they don't drive frugally.
@iscadean So, I think we are agreeing that in both ICE and EV neither range estimate is NOT accurate and will differ based on driving style, ambient weather, incline/decent, etc. If I paid attention to the guess-o-meter in my ICE comparing it to the trip odometer it was possible to notice each 'range' mile lasting longer than the odometer miles. It adjusted in the same way my EV range does whilst driving. For some reason, individuals with a lack of common sense seem to think the range displayed in an EV after a charge is the total distance they may travel regardless and take to social media to complain when they don't achieve that (or the WLTP).
@iscadean I'm not debating that how it monitors as you drive is less or more accurate in an EV than an ICE. I am just trying to point out that the range shown before a trip is just an estimate based on previous trips and battery (pre)condition. A driver shouldn't take that pre-trip range estimate as gospel when planning their route unless they drive economically and that, in my opinion, was true of ICE cars too, but we rarely heard drivers complaining about ICE fuel efficiency. In fact, it seemed more common to hear large capacity engine ICE drivers bragging about how little miles per gallon their gas guzzlers achieved. 🤦♂
6:35 Isn't it the same concept with gasoline/petrol? I drive on the highway and the street all the time, so my miles per gallon are always going to be different... And I imagine it would be the same with batteries
The issue of not charging your EV battery up to 100% each time is a little misleading.....batteries contain maybe 300-400 individual cells and the process of "cell-balancing" only takes place when the battery State-of-Charge (SOC) is above 94-95% i.e. the very top-end of the charging cycle. If the battery is not charged to 100% say every week or so, then there is a very real danger that the cells can get "out-of-balance" i.e. some cells at a lower voltage than the rest, and this can actually ruin the battery because the current draw is effectively set by the average voltage and thus some cells will experience excess current which can damage them...and this will reduce the performance of the whole battery pack. This issue has effectively come about because EV reviewers (most without any real engineering or battery development experience) have picked up on "the best way to run a BEV on a long trip" i.e. running/charging the battery between the SOC 80 to 20 range...this is a very true proposal because of the Charging Profile Curve which is non-linear thus the time lost through charging gets exponentially longer after say 80-85% SOC, and charging speeds at say lower than 15-20% SOC are relatively slow. The battery manufacturers recommend the "20-80" SOC operating range also because it tends to extent the life of the battery pack by maximising the number of charging cycles the battery will sustain in its life. However, it is also important to understand the relationship between charging current and battery life/charging cycles i.e. the higher the charging current/charging power the fewer cycles the battery pack will sustain and the lower will be its service life. If most charging is done at home at lower currents/power ratings i.e. 7-12kW charging with only a few rapid charges per month (over these levels), then the battery life should not be seriously affected. I hope this helps clear up this mis-leading information. Doug Robertson, retired engineer with 10 years experience of EV / battery development
Toyota and Stamford University have just carried out a study on how to charge a new EV battery..An initial fast charge apparently sorts out the internal components of the battery and will prolong battery life. Contrary to all previous ideas. Once again proves one should never listen to opinion only to those with experience and knowledge!
The WLTP and guessometer figures are a frequent bone of contention because so many people out there seem to think that they only arrived with EVs, and then complain constantly about how the EV NEVER does what it's supposed to. We've had range meters in conventionally powered vehicles for a long time, economy figures have been a thing for decades...and they were never true in those vehicles either. Anyone buying a vehicle, any vehicle, and expecting to get the economy figures in the brochure are, quite literally, not living in the real world.
"Hot" for a lithium ion battery is over 45 degrees C. Under that is not too much of a problem (though ideal is 25 to 35). If an EV has decent battery cooling system, and is driven in a steady way, it will be okay in almost any hot climate. However, the car will charge a bit slower when the battery is hot, to avoid further heating. If you worry about battery longevity, go for an LFP battery (currently some Tesla, BYD, MG Motor). These can typically do over 4,000 full charge cycles (20+ years for average drivers) before losing significant capacity.
I just need to know .. I've got the e-C4. How do you get the % displayed on the display? I've tried everything! What have I missed? Anywho... Thank you for this video.🎉
In the early versions of the stelantis cars (208, corsa, C4, 2008, Moka) you don't get it. Quite a shame actualy. The newer versions already have it. The solution may be to pass arround a dealer who understands how the updates work and ask them about a software update.
I like EVs I drive a phev and charge via home solar but all those points are a negative I'd rather wait until the technology improves, solid state or sodium ion batteries. And or course don't forget the infrastructure.
Vehicle makers just should publish numbers that make actual sense: for summer, for winter, for real charging time. This would solve a lot of problems all by itself. WLTP figures would be easy to deal with: just publish all 5 WLTP values (city to motorway) instead of one combined one.
Vehicle makers could publish reams of information and they have done for I.C.E cars but those figures even if Real world cannot account for Drivers style of driving or weather and road conditions. Modern cars have the technology in them too display what you would get in MPG / KM real time or average but your own driving style determines the out come not a piece of paper.
Is this the reasonable counter to the Mish mash of weirdness on the BBC earlier tonight? That was a weirdly weaponised attack against electric with 'just' enough facts to not look biased
So if one keeps charging the EV to 80% , will the battery be affected adversely and eventually you will not be able to charge your EV up to 100%, but only 80% ?
It's relative - you will get some capacity degradation irrespective of the state of charge, but with most Li based chemistries it happens at a higher rate when charging close to 100% SoC or discharging close to 0% SoC. There is also a connection to charge and discharge rates - - if you discharge a battery at a rate that will deplete all the charge in 1 hour ("1C") it will put less wear on the cells than discharging the same battery with the same state of charge over 6 minutes (10C) but more wear than discharging it over 10h ("0.1C"). It also depends on the battery chemistry - for example, the NCM 811 chemistry used in the Tesla 4680 cells is a lot more sensitive to extremes of SoC than the LFP batteries they use in some builds of the Model 3 and Y (note that the NCM battery has higher energy density and peak current delivery capacity, so there are tradeoffs involved).
It seems you are thinking of the "Memory Effect", but this only really affected much older Nickel-Cadmium battery types, not the modern Lithium based chemistries that current BEVs use. There is no problem to mostly charge to 80% (or less) and then occasionally charge to 95 or 100%. It's not a bad idea to charge to 100% a few times (maybe 3-5 times) per year to help the computer update itself on what the full battery capacity is. Trick is to not too often let the battery sit full for long periods (e.g. more than 12 hours). Full = maximum voltage = more "pressure" on the battery materials. Occasionally is fine, regularly is not good.
If I bought an Ice cream on a hot sunny day and could only eat 70% of it I would be grumpy 😎. 10-80% charging is great for the battery, but I will therefore request a larger usable kWh capacity as the 70%.
What about a trickle charge over several hours? I know my phone doesn’t heat up with a very slow charging time there by not putting the battery under stress.
@@garysmith5025 7kW is not trickle charging. Trickle charging is the original name for Granny Charging. Which will have little impact on the battery - a battery trickle charged is only really likely see degradation due to age. A 7kW is actually ironically Fast charging, go figure. It will have a small battery degradation attached to it.
Some comments I have had to address about the range left indicator and its estimation on an electric car... it is no different from a diesel or petrol based car... the estimation there is also dependant on driving on a motorway or around town and can be equally incorrect... on my diesel car the last quarter of a tank always reduces range quicker than the half to 3/4 markers on the gauge.
Of course, but at least with a diesel you don't have a panic attack finding the charging station you've used your last electrons getting to doesn't work or has a long queue. 😄
@@FFVoyagerEasy to walk to the nearest filling station with a Jerry Can. Not so easy with an EV if the charging station you've arrived at doesn't work - and the next nearest one is many miles away.
No it doesn't. Charge to 100% if it's needed, just don't leave the car siting at 100% SoC always and for long periods. Similar to NOT brimming a fuel tank and leaving it sitting in hot sun if you like. Similarly running to single figures SoC is fine, just don't leave it at a low SoC.
The battery pack after 80% Charge increases in temperature so the battery coolant system must work harder to reduce the temperature and in doing so slows down the charging rate under software control.
Hi Ginny a very plain and simple video you put out today which is good but I’m sorry it is not everything we need to know about batteries in EVs Mainly it addresses one type of battery NMC but today we are seeing new vehicles coming with LFP batteries fitted the MG4 for one depending on which model you go for these batteries have different characteristics and can be charged and discharge quite differently plus you made no mention of balancing or how or when it should be carried out this is a very important part of the health and longevity of an EVs battery I thank you for your efforts but feel there is more that needs to be explained maybe in a future video Les
Nice concise reporting,i love ur take on the ferry ev fire and the 16' exclusion zone for damaged ev's ? and how the insurance industry is dealing with it and what advice for charging overnight in a persons garage and until those issues are dealt with i have a feeling 2030 is going to pushed back,why is the uk bursting their balls over co2 whilst Australia,india,russia and America is not? atleast not as vermontly as the uk considering we are only on 1% co2 for the whole world. 😡😡
I'd love your take on how much heavy fuel oil would be saved if there weren't so many tankers moving crude oil around the world so it can be consumed (once!) by passenger cars.
If everyone took that attitude we would get nowhere. Every country has a way to go. By some measures China is doing well (renewables), by others not (new coal).
I was just looking an used electric car. I am disappointed as the dealer say I have to pay battery lease...if not paying and the battery stop working the car worth nothing... But then I end up to spend more running costs than my petrol car 🤯I think simply battery should be easy to replace and not part of the car buy or lease separate as you want. Or replace at the service station in minutes for a charge one
I was wondering why I can’t charge my EV to the claimed range.But I guess the reason for that is zero isn’t actually zero,as there is a reserve of maybe 20 miles or so.
No, the rated range does not include the reserve. The rating is based on a lab test, done in idealised conditions, which are rarely met in real world driving. If you drive a constant 35 miles per hour on a very flat, very smooth road, in 24 degrees temps, with no wind and low humidity, with well pressurised tires... you may achieve the rated range.
@@maximilianholland Testing cycles are certainly controlled, but the reason why CLTC and WLTP, for example, are different is due to what's more relevant to the nation/individual using the standard. If you drove in China you would find the CLTC was very close to the stated range, and you could work this out if you sat in an electric taxi from Pudong airport to the city. However if you lived in a detached home in a suburb and regularly used freeways/motorways as well, then WLTp will be more accurate. Interestingly, there is a Gold Coast Australia Uber driver that seldom gets on the motorway and constantly achieves his car's stated 480km NEDC range. I religiously get 400km for the same car because I spend 50% of my time on the M1.
Telsa recommends plugging in the charger and not do 2-3 days without. Reason being stationary cooling the cabin or the battery , prepping the care for departure can then then be done with wall power instead of using battery power. Therefore causing less battery degradation in the long run. So some of the advice here seems a 180 dgr again the largest EV manufacturers recommendation, so it basically wrong?
Might of been a hundred years ago when petrol tanks were new. It would not have been normal to fill a horse with a flammable liquid. New tech needs new education
Oh I don't know. Don't rev a cold engine, wait until the oil is at working temperature. In the old days, put the choke in as soon as possible to avoid overfueling and cylinder bore wash. Don't run low on petrol, drags the dregs into the engine. Don't brim the fuel tank on a hot day. Don't overrev an engine... Shall I continue? :)
Where is it documented that batteries are ‘happiest’ at 60%. And some cars now have a more linear charging curve which doesn’t drop off at 80% and in any case I’m fairly sure that ‘rule’ only applies to DC charging, not AC?
I look at it this way: Don't discharge to near zero and don't charge above 80%. This means keeping the vehicle charged in a 60 percent range, basically, between 20 and 80%, hence 60%.
Omg, that’s confusing!Talking about fast charging and showing a slow charger and cable! For EV owners probably not a problem, but when you’re ‘new’, extra information is needed. (the reality is more positive) You can AC charge to 100% without loss of speed etc…
You always lose charging speed, let's say you charge at 11kwh AC, my car slows down the charging speed at 95% from 11kwh to 3.7kwh, to protect the battery, I usually disconnect the charging cable at this point
So when manufacturers say you have a WLTP range of 250 miles is that when using 70% (10-80%) of the batteries capacity? Is that false advertising? The analogy of filling your petrol/diesel car to 100% and it spills over isn’t an issue as the pump stops when fuel hits it and it rarely causes fuel to spill out the fuel cap.
If you know that will happen ! The vehicle range on any fuel is based on Full tank / 100% . If you do/ plan a long journey you start with a Full tank or the amount of Fuel you know you need .
The WLTP range is from 0% to 100%. I would not want to let it get down to a very low percentage unless I was arriving home on it (as I would have a guaranteed charge point). On route on a long journey I'd probably not want to go below 20% but the principle I would follow is every time I stop I would charge if I could, even if I was only stopping for 10 minutes for the toilet with no food or drink purchased and no rest required. Always be charging is the maxim to remember. On long trips I'd start off at 100% from home but only only charge to 80% at a rapid charger (CCS 50kw upwards charger).
Some of the first Lithium batteries, yes. The Lithium Ion (NMC) version. That is why you want the modern LFP batteries. Those can charge to 100% without degredation and run down to 0 without damaging. That is what all people should know. I wont buy that Lithium Ion battery EV.
First fact is wrong, charge to 80% to avoid battery degradation over time, especially with fast charging, because they are lithium ion batteries, but LFP and Solid State batteries are ok to change to 100% all the time.
Nice video & factually around why charge to just 80% and what the car does to protect the battery pack.. But what a load of rubbish to why manufactures only state charging times to 80% , Come on I thought this show was meant to be independent. We all know the real reasons & its not to put off new customers is it!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Because if they gave 0% to 100% charge times a lot of people would be put off buying an Ev. A manufacture could easy give these times & just a side note of what they recommend eg 80%. Depending on the car that charge from 0% to 20% & the charge from 80% to 100% could triple the charge times stated & that's not fake , I had not choice a few times over the years I needed all the range to get where I was going as there were no chargers on route , only at my destination. And 80 % to 100% always in my case takes double what 20% to 80% takes. So instead of the manufacture saying you can charge from 20% to 80% in 45 mins they would have to say 0% to 100% is 2 hours 15 mins or higher & people would be very put off by that. And Charge speeds are misleading that citroen you say can charge at 100 kwh but you well know , it will be very rare you see 100 kwh & if your every lucky that you do , it will only be for a few minutes most likely. Come on lets have the whole truth , Why aren't manufactures made to supply a charging sheet with charge times from 0 to 100% plus temps & the difference charging curves. It would be so simple to make & so useful to owners to look at & say im on 15% & I want to charge to 90% they look at the graph find the charge line saying 20c temp & they could see the rough charging curve & time. The charge speed manufactures give should be banned. Manufactures should set the charging up so its nearly a strait charging curve to 80% if that's 70 kwh that's the figure they should give. Or at least give the average speed from 0 to 100% when charging. The battery heater & cooling systems are very good & help the battery last longer & yes they can heat or cool the battery for faster charging or heat the battery first thing on a cold morning before you head out. But what you failed to mention this uses a lot of power to do this. If your cars not plugged in & charging it will cost you range & of course money. If its on charge you will not lose any range but depending on the charger it might slow the charging speed down eg if your on a 75 kwh charger & your car can say charge at 150 kwh instead of your battery pack receiving 75 kwh the battery might just get 70 kwh & the heater takes the rest. At your expense. With the battery up to temp it should be more efficient to drive , But ive never seen any data saying what energy you use to precondition the battery you save more on efficiency by doing this. Also doing it before charging will give higher charging speeds but because its used extra kwh to do this while your driving that extra kwh needs replacing so when you arrive at a charger without preconditioning SOC might be 25% but with preconditioning it might be 20% so will you actually gain anything !!!! It will definitely cost more to charge. In very cold temps or very hot temps I think it might be worth it but in the Uk I dont think it would. Another thing you failed to mention is the cost of this preconditioning while driving , will it use 2 kwh or 5 kwh to precondition a car !!!! As the average UK rapid chargers are a min £0.75p per kwh , so if it takes 5 kwh to precondition the battery either by cooling it or heating it that would add a cost to that charging session of maybe £3.75. Manufactures Range it might be slightly less , Who are you kidding !!!!!! If you drive an Ev in normal mode / comfort mode & drive it like a petrol car you will have a big difference between real world & most manufactures. Take for instance the jaguar I pace 90 kwh battery , usable around 87 kwh manufactures range 298 real world in 15c conditions so not hot or cold your talking 200 miles that's a 98 mile loss. And thats the same for a lot of manufactures. Winter range Ev have heat pumps yes some do but a lot dont & from tests ive seen in the real world between a Tesla model 3 with heat pump & a non heat pump model 3 in the winter there was around 5 miles difference over a 200 plus mile drive. It doesn't really matter if your car has a heat pump or not if your doing a lot of short journeys , As every time you stop the car needs to heat that cabin up again & again. If your just doing short journeys you will lose a lot of range depending on battery size small batterys can show 30% less range & especially if you like it warm eg 23 / 25c in the car. On longer journeys the heater will hold that temp & use a lot less power to maintain that temp. Wow Electrifying what are you doing in these videos lately. Charge Level now that was spot on , you 100% right all non LFP batteries are happiest at 60% SOC. Wow one 100% factual fact out of 6
Six electric battery facts to explain why you new electric car is going to be a little more rubbish that your previous ICE car. Trying to manage your expectations in one easy video.
Charge of a battery is never really 100% even though it may say on the SOC , this because when regen is operating if the battery was a 100% then the energy could not go into the battery, it is a really about 85% , so if the reading is 60% then you really have 60% of 85%, Lithium base batteries do not like to be over charge or under charge this is why the management is critical..
Actually, when my battery is at 100% regen is in fact severely limited until I hit below 95%, it won't do any regen at all until I have driven at least a couple of hundred metres. The battery% charge will show the nominal or usable charge of the battery - on my Tesla model 3 RWD this is 57.5 kwh. The battery has an actual charge capacity of 62 kwh. The battery is in fact fully charged to 62 kwh- you can drive 20 miles on empty (after the range gets to zero) and drain that full 62 kwh out of the battery and the usage will show the full 62kwh used. It essentially has close to zero volts in this status and can be detrimental to the battery. With LFP batteries (Lithium Iron Phosphate) the difference in keeping the 80-20 rule v 100% charge every opportunity you get is negligible, they are impacted but not anywhere near as much as Li-NCA batteries, the benefits of being able to use 100% of the battery range every time far outweighs the mile or 2 range that I might squeeze out of the battery after extended use.
These EV batteries require more TLC than my pet budgie! So, lets be clear, the manufacturers stated range of your new EV isnt true. It will be lower, especially in winter as battery chemistry is impeded by the cold. In my EV experience, 25 to 30% lower. Also, we should only use 80% charge, so say goodbye to 20% of any range you thought you had unless its an emergency when you wait hours to charge to 100% - lets hope the emergency isnt too urgent! Bear in mind public chargers have full VAT added to your electricity, unlike our domestic supply. And 75p per Kwh, a typical public charer cost, is at least double most domestic tarriffs. Its not cheap! Then there's safety. Cars do catch fire. The juries out on whether EVs are less likely to self- destruct than ICE cars. But at the time of writing, a Dutch sea car transporter is ablaze as a result of one if the 30 new EVs aboard ignighting.
It also has other 1000 combustion engine cars onboard and the Dutch Coastguard has been misquoted. They have not yet said what's caused it. Also, the jury is NOT out when it comes to fires. Studies have shown they are up to 50 times LESS likely per million driven to spontaneously catch fire than ICE cars. That's been known for many years.
5:45 My espace _(and just about every other random ICE vehicle)_ had a current and average consumption meter. That included variabels as in using airco (higher consumption), speeding, doodling, amount of load (luggage, people) its all just the same! All the nonsense of EV Guessometers are I think because of the rediculous way consumption is displayed, the math being used and the variables in it. For decades we calculated our consumption in m/g, km/l or l/km _(in Dutch we say my car runs “1 op 15” and EVERYONE knows what that means and whether that is good or not…)_ But now suddenly the tech nerds took hold of consumer logic and pushed their occupasional hazard, read overzealous tech talk, as the common deniminator and elevated it to the standard metric of consumption. Please find me a way that is more natural and logical for us mere mortals PLEASE!!! And all will be good! 😊
So frustrating! EV'S are facing a barrage of misinformation and yet you have just added MORE confusion and misinformation to the mix! Your charging and discharging advice is only applicable to the "older" style of batteries, which are slowly being phased out. The newer battery chemistry of Lithium Iron Phosphate have virtually no restrictions on how or when they are charged. What does matter to ALL current types of batteries is the speed of charging, which was not even mentioned! Regularly using Fast charging or "Level 3" charging has been shown to degrade most of not all types of batteries, faster than normal home, "level 2" charging systems. Disappointed!
The more videos I see like this, the more I'm convinced it's definitely NOT the time to switch to an EV. Maybe in another five years we'll have production models with 1,000 miles - providing enough dummies buy today's models, so manufacturers have deep pockets for R&D.
What fuel car can drive 1000 miles before you have to stop to fill up again? the last time i had a patrol car it only did around 450 miles on a full tank and the last diesel car i drove around 600 miles
This is the problem with EV's, the driver/owner has to aclimate to their own cars battery. But, the average person doesn't want to have to think about how much battery is left, how to drive their car a certain way, charge it to only 80% each time and only when it's a certain battery level, again to preserve the batteries integrity etc. It's too much of a faff. People just want to go to the shops/family/trips out etc and not have to think about any of this. Let's not forget about the children mining lithium and China building the cars in the full knowledge that China is the BIGGEST poluter in the whole world! So EV's aren't the "green" employment friendly cars we've been forced to believe. I don't want any child mining lithium for batteries because someone wants to feel smug driving one.
@@paulbuckingham15 I hope the fact that children are dying from lithium poisoning are embedded on your soul. People have no idea how EV's are made and the minerals/materials come from or how and you've proven that they don't even care.
EV sales continue to decline - oh dear. Biggest selling cars are now Petrol ones - which is what I shall be doing in 2 years. WOnder who will be paying for the additional road repairs caused by the increased weight of EVs, not to mention the problem in maybe 15 years when the majority of cars MIGHT be EVs which means UK's Multi-Storey car parks will All need to be strengthened to cope with the weight ?! I have no issue with EVs - but to ban the sale of ICE cars just to look good at the COP shindig is ridiculous.
Just EVs? Here are some weights, I haven't included vans or lorries, they are weightless as we all know:- Corsa D, 1160kg Toyota Corolla, 1395kg Funky Ora Cat EV, 1615kg Kona EV, 1635kg Tesla Model 3, 1730kg Mini EV 1775kg Volvo XC90D, 2069kg Tesla Model Y, 2154kg Land Rover Discovery, 2184kg BMW X5, 2135kg BMW X6, 2240kg Audi etron 50 EV, 2560kg Audi Q8 etron EV, 2585kg Rolls Royce Phantom, 2610kg Mercedes EQC EV, 2620kg Audi etron 55, 2720kg Range Rover Sport, 2735kg Mercedes EQV EV, 2960kg
6:10 *When The Amber Warning Light comes on **_Low Range Of 90 Miles_** sorry FUEL I Nip into the nearest Charge Station - sorry Diesel Forecourt and fill up with 36 Lites and magically now find I have 590 Mile Range ! - 2019 Mercedes B200 CDi AMG Line Average over 20k Miles 55.4 MPG with a best over 108 Miles of 88.4*
Nope, not really. I reckon it is a response to “Dave” on another youtube channel, who has recently covered these topics. He reports on current charging prices and developments of UK charging sites.
Have you noticed on Sky News the story of the ship carrying EVs is on fire at sea due to an EV spontaneously combustiing. One crew member dead and the others suffering from the toxic fumes given off by the EV. The ship is still on fire. The cars were being exported from Bremen to Egypt so none of the uselles Chinese cars,but German.
Poor advice. You failed to mention that some battery chemistries are much less safe than others and are liable to spontaneously combust (Freemantle Highway!!) Given that omission I was not surprised that you failed to mention the battery overheating problems Citroen has suffered in warmer weather. You can do much better than this, a minimum knowledge of Battery chemistry is essential.
Ill give you six facts about EVs. 1. They are a fire hazard 2. They depreciate at alarming rates 3. They are more expensive to run 4. They are severely frustrateing to run 5. The weight of them wears out our roads faster 6. They are note polluting to the planet than ordinary cars.
If you actually had an EV you would know it is NOT more expensive to run nor to keep. The Aquisition yes, is much higher, but not to run if you charge it at home. Yes, when they caught on fire, they burn faster, stronger and longer than combustion cars. But every year almost 300k comusions cars burn in USA alone, so don't pretend they don't. Also, remember when smartphones came up? OMG, you have radioactive bombs near your head, bla bla bla... pretty sure you have almost 20 devices with batteries at your home, and you don't care.
@@luispacheco3571 you are being very selective with your answer. In the real world, you need to be able to charge it on the go, wherever you are. Try again 👍
@@stevegarside2471 Ok, i'll play. There's a lot of "it depends" but we've recently done a roadtrip from the UK to Switzerland. 1,685 miles and so other than the initial charge was public charging, Superchargers and hotels. Total cost was £156. 9p per mile. Insert diesel/petrol costs for comparison...
Well they do. Range is a problem. Charging time is a problem. Loosing range because you put the heater on is a problem. Price of charging is a problem. As a taxi driver I'm praying there will be an alternative. I'm sticking to hybrid as long as possible.
@@forealg @forealg i'm pro EV especially if you can make it work and sell new cars for a living in the UK. I ask every customer who could be suitable for an EV about their usage of the car. 95 percent of retail customers (i.e not for solely for work purposes) do a sub 30mile commute so it's not an issue. For these people this means they can charge overnight when the car isnt in use so time isn't an issue. They can get a nighttime tariff so again cost isn't an issue from home as it's significantly cheaper than fuel at the pump at the moment if you charge from home. An when I ask people when they do a longer 100mi journey it tends to be between 2-3 times a year so not a big deal. I think people look for reasons not to and the people who worry the most do the least mileage. I get as a taxi driver it's going to be more difficult but surely you stop for a break on a 8-10hr shift. Top-up your cars batteries and your own haha
@@forealg what if you're offered a £50 job after you have worked 12hrs and can't safely drive anymore as you're too tired you have to turn it down. I understand both you and I are in jobs where you get out what you put in but sometimes when the shop closes and someone comes in 5mins before we closeI have to turn down work.
EV are a con what goes it do to the environment from mining and refining for the batteries lots of tires in it’s life time expensive to buy new an losing it’s value by nearly half after a year and getting rid of the batteries at the en of its life etc etc
A better analogy is pouring coke. You can pour fast but near the end you need to pour slow to allow the bubbles to settle.
Every garage should show this video to all new customers so that people have a understanding about electric cars . Well done
Well done, good advice given in a concise, clear way and not something you will find in the handbook.
Like the tea analogy. Hungry for the battery chemistry video.🍰
It is simple - and highly misleading at the same time.
8:15 That advice about 60% charge technically correct but no the full story - if you have an LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate) battery then the difference between keeping the car between 80 and 20 % and charging it every single opportunity to 100% is negligible, in fact Tesla recommends charging to 100% at least once per week. The hassle of constantly altering charge patterns is just not worth the payoff in miniscule battery maintenance savings.
I don't travel far on a weekly basis, but on average I charge my LFP blade battery to 100% at least once for the very reason you explain.
The MSM tends to ignore that EV batteries are generally lasting for several years longer than was ever anticipated, so long as owners take a bit of care as shown in this video and the car has a thermal management system.
Best analogy is a film theatre filling up. Easy for the first 0% to 80%. After that the remaining 20% of seats are singles and dotted all over the place. Hard to find and given the time, closing in on the performance starting, panic and confusion setting in. Hence the delay in filling to 100% capacity ie charging fully.
I get my first ev a Q4 tomorrow thank you for your reviews and tips.
Understanding these things is absolutley key. 👌👌
The range display (aka guess-o-meter) is essentially the same in an ICE car. If you have a heavy foot in an ICE it will also do less miles for the energy consumed, it's just we are so used to not worrying about it due to the size of the tank and it's perhaps not quite as significant a variation as when driving an EV like you stole it. In some ways the range display is worse in an ICE as most of them stop offering a guesstimate once they reach 40/50 miles remaining.
@iscadean My VW Touran gives me an estimated range based on measured fuel consumption (averaged over the last 10ish km, I believe) and tank level.
@iscadean My last ICE had a guess-o-meter that I always exceeded because I had a light right foot. My point is that it's essentially the same as published MPG figures, drivers should not expect the MPG/WLTP range if they don't drive frugally.
@iscadean So, I think we are agreeing that in both ICE and EV neither range estimate is NOT accurate and will differ based on driving style, ambient weather, incline/decent, etc.
If I paid attention to the guess-o-meter in my ICE comparing it to the trip odometer it was possible to notice each 'range' mile lasting longer than the odometer miles. It adjusted in the same way my EV range does whilst driving.
For some reason, individuals with a lack of common sense seem to think the range displayed in an EV after a charge is the total distance they may travel regardless and take to social media to complain when they don't achieve that (or the WLTP).
@iscadean I'm not debating that how it monitors as you drive is less or more accurate in an EV than an ICE. I am just trying to point out that the range shown before a trip is just an estimate based on previous trips and battery (pre)condition. A driver shouldn't take that pre-trip range estimate as gospel when planning their route unless they drive economically and that, in my opinion, was true of ICE cars too, but we rarely heard drivers complaining about ICE fuel efficiency. In fact, it seemed more common to hear large capacity engine ICE drivers bragging about how little miles per gallon their gas guzzlers achieved. 🤦♂
Geat video. No one really talks about this stuff
Er, wow, had to rewind to get what Ginny was saying. Great explanation though and she is a great presenter especially on the box.
6:35 Isn't it the same concept with gasoline/petrol? I drive on the highway and the street all the time, so my miles per gallon are always going to be different... And I imagine it would be the same with batteries
Thank you.
The issue of not charging your EV battery up to 100% each time is a little misleading.....batteries contain maybe 300-400 individual cells and the process of "cell-balancing" only takes place when the battery State-of-Charge (SOC) is above 94-95% i.e. the very top-end of the charging cycle. If the battery is not charged to 100% say every week or so, then there is a very real danger that the cells can get "out-of-balance" i.e. some cells at a lower voltage than the rest, and this can actually ruin the battery because the current draw is effectively set by the average voltage and thus some cells will experience excess current which can damage them...and this will reduce the performance of the whole battery pack.
This issue has effectively come about because EV reviewers (most without any real engineering or battery development experience) have picked up on "the best way to run a BEV on a long trip" i.e. running/charging the battery between the SOC 80 to 20 range...this is a very true proposal because of the Charging Profile Curve which is non-linear thus the time lost through charging gets exponentially longer after say 80-85% SOC, and charging speeds at say lower than 15-20% SOC are relatively slow.
The battery manufacturers recommend the "20-80" SOC operating range also because it tends to extent the life of the battery pack by maximising the number of charging cycles the battery will sustain in its life. However, it is also important to understand the relationship between charging current and battery life/charging cycles i.e. the higher the charging current/charging power the fewer cycles the battery pack will sustain and the lower will be its service life. If most charging is done at home at lower currents/power ratings i.e. 7-12kW charging with only a few rapid charges per month (over these levels), then the battery life should not be seriously affected.
I hope this helps clear up this mis-leading information.
Doug Robertson, retired engineer with 10 years experience of EV / battery development
Great advice 😊
As someone from the states, I love your tea analogy. Except over here it would be coffee ;)
*Don't mention Boston !*
Toyota and Stamford University have just carried out a study on how to charge a new EV battery..An initial fast charge apparently sorts out the internal components of the battery and will prolong battery life. Contrary to all previous ideas. Once again proves one should never listen to opinion only to those with experience and knowledge!
The WLTP and guessometer figures are a frequent bone of contention because so many people out there seem to think that they only arrived with EVs, and then complain constantly about how the EV NEVER does what it's supposed to.
We've had range meters in conventionally powered vehicles for a long time, economy figures have been a thing for decades...and they were never true in those vehicles either. Anyone buying a vehicle, any vehicle, and expecting to get the economy figures in the brochure are, quite literally, not living in the real world.
How about battery impact in hot climates like malaysia and thailand?
"Hot" for a lithium ion battery is over 45 degrees C. Under that is not too much of a problem (though ideal is 25 to 35). If an EV has decent battery cooling system, and is driven in a steady way, it will be okay in almost any hot climate. However, the car will charge a bit slower when the battery is hot, to avoid further heating. If you worry about battery longevity, go for an LFP battery (currently some Tesla, BYD, MG Motor). These can typically do over 4,000 full charge cycles (20+ years for average drivers) before losing significant capacity.
Good stuff.
Thanks for the advice. There seems to be a lot of negative press around about EVs.
I just need to know .. I've got the e-C4. How do you get the % displayed on the display? I've tried everything! What have I missed?
Anywho... Thank you for this video.🎉
In the early versions of the stelantis cars (208, corsa, C4, 2008, Moka) you don't get it. Quite a shame actualy. The newer versions already have it. The solution may be to pass arround a dealer who understands how the updates work and ask them about a software update.
@@Icedevice1000 yeah it's the 2022 model.
I like EVs I drive a phev and charge via home solar but all those points are a negative I'd rather wait until the technology improves, solid state or sodium ion batteries. And or course don't forget the infrastructure.
Be reassured. We drive long-range electric and it’s fine. Lots of chargers and increasingly numerous.
Cheers love great video
Vehicle makers just should publish numbers that make actual sense: for summer, for winter, for real charging time. This would solve a lot of problems all by itself. WLTP figures would be easy to deal with: just publish all 5 WLTP values (city to motorway) instead of one combined one.
Vehicle makers could publish reams of information and they have done for I.C.E cars but those figures even if Real world cannot account for Drivers style of driving or weather and road conditions. Modern cars have the technology in them too display what you would get in MPG / KM real time or average but your own driving style determines the out come not a piece of paper.
Is this the reasonable counter to the Mish mash of weirdness on the BBC earlier tonight?
That was a weirdly weaponised attack against electric with 'just' enough facts to not look biased
So if one keeps charging the EV to 80% , will the battery be affected adversely and eventually you will not be able to charge your EV up to 100%, but only 80% ?
It's relative - you will get some capacity degradation irrespective of the state of charge, but with most Li based chemistries it happens at a higher rate when charging close to 100% SoC or discharging close to 0% SoC. There is also a connection to charge and discharge rates - - if you discharge a battery at a rate that will deplete all the charge in 1 hour ("1C") it will put less wear on the cells than discharging the same battery with the same state of charge over 6 minutes (10C) but more wear than discharging it over 10h ("0.1C"). It also depends on the battery chemistry - for example, the NCM 811 chemistry used in the Tesla 4680 cells is a lot more sensitive to extremes of SoC than the LFP batteries they use in some builds of the Model 3 and Y (note that the NCM battery has higher energy density and peak current delivery capacity, so there are tradeoffs involved).
It seems you are thinking of the "Memory Effect", but this only really affected much older Nickel-Cadmium battery types, not the modern Lithium based chemistries that current BEVs use. There is no problem to mostly charge to 80% (or less) and then occasionally charge to 95 or 100%. It's not a bad idea to charge to 100% a few times (maybe 3-5 times) per year to help the computer update itself on what the full battery capacity is. Trick is to not too often let the battery sit full for long periods (e.g. more than 12 hours). Full = maximum voltage = more "pressure" on the battery materials. Occasionally is fine, regularly is not good.
No.
If I bought an Ice cream on a hot sunny day and could only eat 70% of it I would be grumpy 😎. 10-80% charging is great for the battery, but I will therefore request a larger usable kWh capacity as the 70%.
What about a trickle charge over several hours? I know my phone doesn’t heat up with a very slow charging time there by not putting the battery under stress.
@@garysmith5025 7kW is not trickle charging. Trickle charging is the original name for Granny Charging. Which will have little impact on the battery - a battery trickle charged is only really likely see degradation due to age. A 7kW is actually ironically Fast charging, go figure. It will have a small battery degradation attached to it.
nice content! we're fans
Some comments I have had to address about the range left indicator and its estimation on an electric car... it is no different from a diesel or petrol based car... the estimation there is also dependant on driving on a motorway or around town and can be equally incorrect... on my diesel car the last quarter of a tank always reduces range quicker than the half to 3/4 markers on the gauge.
Of course, but at least with a diesel you don't have a panic attack finding the charging station you've used your last electrons getting to doesn't work or has a long queue. 😄
@@phuketexploreris that because nobody has ever 'run out' of fuel? 🤔
@@FFVoyager People run out of fuel all the time. I don't get your point!
@@phuketexplorer don't they panic? 🙄
(The idea that chargers are 'broken' or have a long wait is a really old gammon trope)
@@FFVoyagerEasy to walk to the nearest filling station with a Jerry Can. Not so easy with an EV if the charging station you've arrived at doesn't work - and the next nearest one is many miles away.
Do all Citroens have a gigantic USB-C charging port in their drivers door? Or is this tiny Ginny with toy town cars?
Always remain between 10%-80%. Means you have access to 70% of usable capacity.
80%
No it doesn't. Charge to 100% if it's needed, just don't leave the car siting at 100% SoC always and for long periods. Similar to NOT brimming a fuel tank and leaving it sitting in hot sun if you like. Similarly running to single figures SoC is fine, just don't leave it at a low SoC.
I see you filmed on the day of the flying ant hatch!😅
The battery pack after 80% Charge increases in temperature so the battery coolant system must work harder to reduce the temperature and in doing so slows down the charging rate under software control.
Hi Ginny a very plain and simple video you put out today which is good but I’m sorry it is not everything we need to know about batteries in EVs
Mainly it addresses one type of battery NMC but today we are seeing new vehicles coming with LFP batteries fitted the MG4 for one depending on which model you go for these batteries have different characteristics and can be charged and discharge quite differently plus you made no mention of balancing or how or when it should be carried out this is a very important part of the health and longevity of an EVs battery I thank you for your efforts but feel there is more that needs to be explained maybe in a future video
Les
Nice concise reporting,i love ur take on the ferry ev fire and the 16' exclusion zone for damaged ev's ? and how the insurance industry is dealing with it and what advice for charging overnight in a persons garage and until those issues are dealt with i have a feeling 2030 is going to pushed back,why is the uk bursting their balls over co2 whilst Australia,india,russia and America is not? atleast not as vermontly as the uk considering we are only on 1% co2 for the whole world. 😡😡
I'd love your take on how much heavy fuel oil would be saved if there weren't so many tankers moving crude oil around the world so it can be consumed (once!) by passenger cars.
If everyone took that attitude we would get nowhere. Every country has a way to go. By some measures China is doing well (renewables), by others not (new coal).
I was just looking an used electric car.
I am disappointed as the dealer say I have to pay battery lease...if not paying and the battery stop working the car worth nothing... But then I end up to spend more running costs than my petrol car 🤯I think simply battery should be easy to replace and not part of the car buy or lease separate as you want. Or replace at the service station in minutes for a charge one
I was wondering why I can’t charge my EV to the claimed range.But I guess the reason for that is zero isn’t actually zero,as there is a reserve of maybe 20 miles or so.
No, the rated range does not include the reserve. The rating is based on a lab test, done in idealised conditions, which are rarely met in real world driving. If you drive a constant 35 miles per hour on a very flat, very smooth road, in 24 degrees temps, with no wind and low humidity, with well pressurised tires... you may achieve the rated range.
@@maximilianholland Testing cycles are certainly controlled, but the reason why CLTC and WLTP, for example, are different is due to what's more relevant to the nation/individual using the standard. If you drove in China you would find the CLTC was very close to the stated range, and you could work this out if you sat in an electric taxi from Pudong airport to the city.
However if you lived in a detached home in a suburb and regularly used freeways/motorways as well, then WLTp will be more accurate. Interestingly, there is a Gold Coast Australia Uber driver that seldom gets on the motorway and constantly achieves his car's stated 480km NEDC range. I religiously get 400km for the same car because I spend 50% of my time on the M1.
Telsa recommends plugging in the charger and not do 2-3 days without. Reason being stationary cooling the cabin or the battery , prepping the care for departure can then then be done with wall power instead of using battery power. Therefore causing less battery degradation in the long run. So some of the advice here seems a 180 dgr again the largest EV manufacturers recommendation, so it basically wrong?
For my daily commute I charge my m3 lr to 80%
WLTP= Well, less than probably / NEDC= Not even darn close !!
Never had all this info about petrol tanks 😎
Because this is relatively new tech people need information. There are are a lot of myths out there.
Well you have this info now.
Might of been a hundred years ago when petrol tanks were new. It would not have been normal to fill a horse with a flammable liquid. New tech needs new education
Oh I don't know. Don't rev a cold engine, wait until the oil is at working temperature. In the old days, put the choke in as soon as possible to avoid overfueling and cylinder bore wash. Don't run low on petrol, drags the dregs into the engine. Don't brim the fuel tank on a hot day. Don't overrev an engine... Shall I continue? :)
Where is it documented that batteries are ‘happiest’ at 60%. And some cars now have a more linear charging curve which doesn’t drop off at 80% and in any case I’m fairly sure that ‘rule’ only applies to DC charging, not AC?
You don’t get high speed AC charging.
Actually it applies to AC charging as well, except it usually is so slow that it is only seen between 97-100%
I look at it this way:
Don't discharge to near zero and don't charge above 80%. This means keeping the vehicle charged in a 60 percent range, basically, between 20 and 80%, hence 60%.
The car should manage all this automatically for you, so dont worry if you are put off by all this battery talk. 🔋
Omg, that’s confusing!Talking about fast charging and showing a slow charger and cable!
For EV owners probably not a problem, but when you’re ‘new’, extra information is needed. (the reality is more positive)
You can AC charge to 100% without loss of speed etc…
You always lose charging speed, let's say you charge at 11kwh AC, my car slows down the charging speed at 95% from 11kwh to 3.7kwh, to protect the battery, I usually disconnect the charging cable at this point
Cupra Born 11 kWh until the end!
This one Ginny
So when manufacturers say you have a WLTP range of 250 miles is that when using 70% (10-80%) of the batteries capacity? Is that false advertising? The analogy of filling your petrol/diesel car to 100% and it spills over isn’t an issue as the pump stops when fuel hits it and it rarely causes fuel to spill out the fuel cap.
If you know that will happen ! The vehicle range on any fuel is based on Full tank / 100% . If you do/ plan a long journey you start with a Full tank or the amount of Fuel you know you need .
The WLTP range is from 0% to 100%. I would not want to let it get down to a very low percentage unless I was arriving home on it (as I would have a guaranteed charge point). On route on a long journey I'd probably not want to go below 20% but the principle I would follow is every time I stop I would charge if I could, even if I was only stopping for 10 minutes for the toilet with no food or drink purchased and no rest required. Always be charging is the maxim to remember. On long trips I'd start off at 100% from home but only only charge to 80% at a rapid charger (CCS 50kw upwards charger).
Some of the first Lithium batteries, yes. The Lithium Ion (NMC) version.
That is why you want the modern LFP batteries.
Those can charge to 100% without degredation and run down to 0 without damaging.
That is what all people should know. I wont buy that Lithium Ion battery EV.
First fact is wrong, charge to 80% to avoid battery degradation over time, especially with fast charging, because they are lithium ion batteries, but LFP and Solid State batteries are ok to change to 100% all the time.
i found a massive range difference on the motorway driving at 60mph instead of 70mph
Nice video & factually around why charge to just 80% and what the car does to protect the battery pack.. But what a load of rubbish to why manufactures only state charging times to 80% , Come on I thought this show was meant to be independent. We all know the real reasons & its not to put off new customers is it!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Because if they gave 0% to 100% charge times a lot of people would be put off buying an Ev. A manufacture could easy give these times & just a side note of what they recommend eg 80%. Depending on the car that charge from 0% to 20% & the charge from 80% to 100% could triple the charge times stated & that's not fake , I had not choice a few times over the years I needed all the range to get where I was going as there were no chargers on route , only at my destination. And 80 % to 100% always in my case takes double what 20% to 80% takes. So instead of the manufacture saying you can charge from 20% to 80% in 45 mins they would have to say 0% to 100% is 2 hours 15 mins or higher & people would be very put off by that.
And Charge speeds are misleading that citroen you say can charge at 100 kwh but you well know , it will be very rare you see 100 kwh & if your every lucky that you do , it will only be for a few minutes most likely. Come on lets have the whole truth , Why aren't manufactures made to supply a charging sheet with charge times from 0 to 100% plus temps & the difference charging curves. It would be so simple to make & so useful to owners to look at & say im on 15% & I want to charge to 90% they look at the graph find the charge line saying 20c temp & they could see the rough charging curve & time.
The charge speed manufactures give should be banned. Manufactures should set the charging up so its nearly a strait charging curve to 80% if that's 70 kwh that's the figure they should give. Or at least give the average speed from 0 to 100% when charging.
The battery heater & cooling systems are very good & help the battery last longer & yes they can heat or cool the battery for faster charging or heat the battery first thing on a cold morning before you head out. But what you failed to mention this uses a lot of power to do this. If your cars not plugged in & charging it will cost you range & of course money. If its on charge you will not lose any range but depending on the charger it might slow the charging speed down eg if your on a 75 kwh charger & your car can say charge at 150 kwh instead of your battery pack receiving 75 kwh the battery might just get 70 kwh & the heater takes the rest. At your expense. With the battery up to temp it should be more efficient to drive , But ive never seen any data saying what energy you use to precondition the battery you save more on efficiency by doing this. Also doing it before charging will give higher charging speeds but because its used extra kwh to do this while your driving that extra kwh needs replacing so when you arrive at a charger without preconditioning SOC might be 25% but with preconditioning it might be 20% so will you actually gain anything !!!! It will definitely cost more to charge. In very cold temps or very hot temps I think it might be worth it but in the Uk I dont think it would.
Another thing you failed to mention is the cost of this preconditioning while driving , will it use 2 kwh or 5 kwh to precondition a car !!!! As the average UK rapid chargers are a min £0.75p per kwh , so if it takes 5 kwh to precondition the battery either by cooling it or heating it that would add a cost to that charging session of maybe £3.75.
Manufactures Range it might be slightly less , Who are you kidding !!!!!!
If you drive an Ev in normal mode / comfort mode & drive it like a petrol car you will have a big difference between real world & most manufactures. Take for instance the jaguar I pace 90 kwh battery , usable around 87 kwh manufactures range 298 real world in 15c conditions so not hot or cold your talking 200 miles that's a 98 mile loss. And thats the same for a lot of manufactures.
Winter range Ev have heat pumps yes some do but a lot dont & from tests ive seen in the real world between a Tesla model 3 with heat pump & a non heat pump model 3 in the winter there was around 5 miles difference over a 200 plus mile drive.
It doesn't really matter if your car has a heat pump or not if your doing a lot of short journeys , As every time you stop the car needs to heat that cabin up again & again. If your just doing short journeys you will lose a lot of range depending on battery size small batterys can show 30% less range & especially if you like it warm eg 23 / 25c in the car. On longer journeys the heater will hold that temp & use a lot less power to maintain that temp.
Wow Electrifying what are you doing in these videos lately.
Charge Level now that was spot on , you 100% right all non LFP batteries are happiest at 60% SOC.
Wow one 100% factual fact out of 6
I should wait for 6 hours
Six electric battery facts to explain why you new electric car is going to be a little more rubbish that your previous ICE car. Trying to manage your expectations in one easy video.
Charge of a battery is never really 100% even though it may say on the SOC , this because when regen is operating if the battery was a 100% then the energy could not go into the battery, it is a really about 85% , so if the reading is 60% then you really have 60% of 85%, Lithium base batteries do not like to be over charge or under charge this is why the management is critical..
Actually, when my battery is at 100% regen is in fact severely limited until I hit below 95%, it won't do any regen at all until I have driven at least a couple of hundred metres.
The battery% charge will show the nominal or usable charge of the battery - on my Tesla model 3 RWD this is 57.5 kwh. The battery has an actual charge capacity of 62 kwh. The battery is in fact fully charged to 62 kwh- you can drive 20 miles on empty (after the range gets to zero) and drain that full 62 kwh out of the battery and the usage will show the full 62kwh used. It essentially has close to zero volts in this status and can be detrimental to the battery.
With LFP batteries (Lithium Iron Phosphate) the difference in keeping the 80-20 rule v 100% charge every opportunity you get is negligible, they are impacted but not anywhere near as much as Li-NCA batteries, the benefits of being able to use 100% of the battery range every time far outweighs the mile or 2 range that I might squeeze out of the battery after extended use.
Even a MX30 when full charged or around 95% warns you that Regen will be limited ( but not tell you for how long ? ).
These EV batteries require more TLC than my pet budgie! So, lets be clear, the manufacturers stated range of your new EV isnt true. It will be lower, especially in winter as battery chemistry is impeded by the cold. In my EV experience, 25 to 30% lower. Also, we should only use 80% charge, so say goodbye to 20% of any range you thought you had unless its an emergency when you wait hours to charge to 100% - lets hope the emergency isnt too urgent!
Bear in mind public chargers have full VAT added to your electricity, unlike our domestic supply. And 75p per Kwh, a typical public charer cost, is at least double most domestic tarriffs. Its not cheap!
Then there's safety. Cars do catch fire. The juries out on whether EVs are less likely to self- destruct than ICE cars. But at the time of writing, a Dutch sea car transporter is ablaze as a result of one if the 30 new EVs aboard ignighting.
It also has other 1000 combustion engine cars onboard and the Dutch Coastguard has been misquoted. They have not yet said what's caused it. Also, the jury is NOT out when it comes to fires. Studies have shown they are up to 50 times LESS likely per million driven to spontaneously catch fire than ICE cars. That's been known for many years.
498 EV's on board
Thank goodness I don't have to fill my ICE only to 80%
You can afford more?
Nope lithium battery can accept 100% at the same charging speed manufacturers don't do that bcoz they know it would degrades the battery fast :)
5:45 My espace _(and just about every other random ICE vehicle)_ had a current and average consumption meter. That included variabels as in using airco (higher consumption), speeding, doodling, amount of load (luggage, people) its all just the same! All the nonsense of EV Guessometers are I think because of the rediculous way consumption is displayed, the math being used and the variables in it.
For decades we calculated our consumption in m/g, km/l or l/km _(in Dutch we say my car runs “1 op 15” and EVERYONE knows what that means and whether that is good or not…)_ But now suddenly the tech nerds took hold of consumer logic and pushed their occupasional hazard, read overzealous tech talk, as the common deniminator and elevated it to the standard metric of consumption.
Please find me a way that is more natural and logical for us mere mortals PLEASE!!! And all will be good! 😊
Surely people should be researching before they buy a bit stupid if they don't
So frustrating! EV'S are facing a barrage of misinformation and yet you have just added MORE confusion and misinformation to the mix!
Your charging and discharging advice is only applicable to the "older" style of batteries, which are slowly being phased out. The newer battery chemistry of Lithium Iron Phosphate have virtually no restrictions on how or when they are charged. What does matter to ALL current types of batteries is the speed of charging, which was not even mentioned! Regularly using Fast charging or "Level 3" charging has been shown to degrade most of not all types of batteries, faster than normal home, "level 2" charging systems.
Disappointed!
The more videos I see like this, the more I'm convinced it's definitely NOT the time to switch to an EV. Maybe in another five years we'll have production models with 1,000 miles - providing enough dummies buy today's models, so manufacturers have deep pockets for R&D.
I guess u never owned a Tesla…
@@skepticalmechanic Oh, Sorry, I didn't know they did 1,000 miles before needing a recharge.
Don’t worry. We went long-range electric (Tesla). It’s fine. Plenty of chargers, quick recharge and who drives 1000 miles without stopping?
@@spsmith45 My wife regularly drives 1,000 miles on trips to see family. Although admittedly she has the odd refuling stop and rest break, on the way.
What fuel car can drive 1000 miles before you have to stop to fill up again?
the last time i had a patrol car it only did around 450 miles on a full tank and the last diesel car i drove around 600 miles
Range-ometer? I prefer range display. It’s English.
Much prefer the other presenters. Supporting Lineker's dumb nazi comments is not acceptable.
This is the problem with EV's, the driver/owner has to aclimate to their own cars battery. But, the average person doesn't want to have to think about how much battery is left, how to drive their car a certain way, charge it to only 80% each time and only when it's a certain battery level, again to preserve the batteries integrity etc. It's too much of a faff. People just want to go to the shops/family/trips out etc and not have to think about any of this. Let's not forget about the children mining lithium and China building the cars in the full knowledge that China is the BIGGEST poluter in the whole world! So EV's aren't the "green" employment friendly cars we've been forced to believe. I don't want any child mining lithium for batteries because someone wants to feel smug driving one.
It isn't a problem.
@@paulbuckingham15 I hope the fact that children are dying from lithium poisoning are embedded on your soul. People have no idea how EV's are made and the minerals/materials come from or how and you've proven that they don't even care.
EV sales continue to decline - oh dear. Biggest selling cars are now Petrol ones - which is what I shall be doing in 2 years. WOnder who will be paying for the additional road repairs caused by the increased weight of EVs, not to mention the problem in maybe 15 years when the majority of cars MIGHT be EVs which means UK's Multi-Storey car parks will All need to be strengthened to cope with the weight ?! I have no issue with EVs - but to ban the sale of ICE cars just to look good at the COP shindig is ridiculous.
Just EVs? Here are some weights, I haven't included vans or lorries, they are weightless as we all know:-
Corsa D, 1160kg
Toyota Corolla, 1395kg
Funky Ora Cat EV, 1615kg
Kona EV, 1635kg
Tesla Model 3, 1730kg
Mini EV 1775kg
Volvo XC90D, 2069kg
Tesla Model Y, 2154kg
Land Rover Discovery, 2184kg
BMW X5, 2135kg
BMW X6, 2240kg
Audi etron 50 EV, 2560kg
Audi Q8 etron EV, 2585kg
Rolls Royce Phantom, 2610kg
Mercedes EQC EV, 2620kg
Audi etron 55, 2720kg
Range Rover Sport, 2735kg
Mercedes EQV EV, 2960kg
Nah, still not for me, too expensive...
6:10 *When The Amber Warning Light comes on **_Low Range Of 90 Miles_** sorry FUEL I Nip into the nearest Charge Station - sorry Diesel Forecourt and fill up with 36 Lites and magically now find I have 590 Mile Range ! - 2019 Mercedes B200 CDi AMG Line Average over 20k Miles 55.4 MPG with a best over 108 Miles of 88.4*
But that car emits CO2, NO and fine particulates which damage health.
This is just an Ad for Citroen
Nope, not really. I reckon it is a response to “Dave” on another youtube channel, who has recently covered these topics. He reports on current charging prices and developments of UK charging sites.
@@oliver90owner'Dave' is an idiot though
Have you noticed on Sky News the story of the ship carrying EVs is on fire at sea due to an EV spontaneously combustiing. One crew member dead and the others suffering from the toxic fumes given off by the EV. The ship is still on fire. The cars were being exported from Bremen to Egypt so none of the uselles Chinese cars,but German.
The cause of the fire is yet to he determined. The latest I've read is the fire started NEAR an EV. Best wait and see before jumping to conclusions.
I find ICE vehicles so convenient; just pop in, fill up and gone in a few minutes.. EV's not so much.
I find EV vehicles so convenient, get in the car in the morning and it's ready to go, no need to go ANYWHERE ;)
Poor advice. You failed to mention that some battery chemistries are much less safe than others and are liable to spontaneously combust (Freemantle Highway!!) Given that omission I was not surprised that you failed to mention the battery overheating problems Citroen has suffered in warmer weather. You can do much better than this, a minimum knowledge of Battery chemistry is essential.
In other words, range anxiety is a thing.. suck it up.
Not really. The car’s system or your app plans the stops every 150-200 miles. You need a stop every two hours or so for safety.
*Try Selling it after 3 Year Lease or Purchase = Not worth a Carrot !*
Ill give you six facts about EVs.
1. They are a fire hazard
2. They depreciate at alarming rates
3. They are more expensive to run
4. They are severely frustrateing to run
5. The weight of them wears out our roads faster
6. They are note polluting to the planet than ordinary cars.
@@valleyofiron125 but it's not though is it. These things are happening.
If you actually had an EV you would know it is NOT more expensive to run nor to keep. The Aquisition yes, is much higher, but not to run if you charge it at home.
Yes, when they caught on fire, they burn faster, stronger and longer than combustion cars. But every year almost 300k comusions cars burn in USA alone, so don't pretend they don't. Also, remember when smartphones came up? OMG, you have radioactive bombs near your head, bla bla bla... pretty sure you have almost 20 devices with batteries at your home, and you don't care.
@@luispacheco3571 you are being very selective with your answer. In the real world, you need to be able to charge it on the go, wherever you are. Try again 👍
@@stevegarside2471 Ok, i'll play. There's a lot of "it depends" but we've recently done a roadtrip from the UK to Switzerland. 1,685 miles and so other than the initial charge was public charging, Superchargers and hotels. Total cost was £156. 9p per mile. Insert diesel/petrol costs for comparison...
And second or third hand which is how most people can afford a car the battery will be degraded and the value gone.....
I've got an Electric Car with a 600 mile range and a recharge time of 5 minutes from empty, It's Incredible, Oh did I say Electric I Meant Diesel ❤️
Don't buy electric
Electric cars will fail if they dont seriously up there game.
Disagree, people need to change their mindset. It's not the same experience as ICE and won't ever be
Well they do.
Range is a problem.
Charging time is a problem.
Loosing range because you put the heater on is a problem.
Price of charging is a problem.
As a taxi driver I'm praying there will be an alternative. I'm sticking to hybrid as long as possible.
@@forealg @forealg i'm pro EV especially if you can make it work and sell new cars for a living in the UK. I ask every customer who could be suitable for an EV about their usage of the car. 95 percent of retail customers (i.e not for solely for work purposes) do a sub 30mile commute so it's not an issue. For these people this means they can charge overnight when the car isnt in use so time isn't an issue. They can get a nighttime tariff so again cost isn't an issue from home as it's significantly cheaper than fuel at the pump at the moment if you charge from home. An when I ask people when they do a longer 100mi journey it tends to be between 2-3 times a year so not a big deal. I think people look for reasons not to and the people who worry the most do the least mileage. I get as a taxi driver it's going to be more difficult but surely you stop for a break on a 8-10hr shift. Top-up your cars batteries and your own haha
@@brettfield847 what if at 20% I'm offered a £50 job. I can't ask the customer if I can't quickly fill up
@@forealg what if you're offered a £50 job after you have worked 12hrs and can't safely drive anymore as you're too tired you have to turn it down. I understand both you and I are in jobs where you get out what you put in but sometimes when the shop closes and someone comes in 5mins before we closeI have to turn down work.
EV are a con what goes it do to the environment from mining and refining for the batteries lots of tires in it’s life time expensive to buy new an losing it’s value by nearly half after a year and getting rid of the batteries at the en of its life etc etc
6 disadvantages then.