Hi Eldest, putting a new head on my 79 spider, used your video as a timing belt replacement refresher, so great to have these videos to go back to any time. Thank you! I will let you know how the new head works, it's a slight upgrade but I need to wait for the snow to melt.
Sure, the aux shaft drives the mechanical fuel pump via a lobe. Even if you don't have the pump anymore because it's been switched to electric the lobe is still there. The aux shaft has to be timed in order to not interfere with the crankshaft and pistons movements. In the video I show how when the shaft is out of place the crankshaft hits it. As long as you set it up right, everything turns in time. Good enough?
Couple of comments. The dot on the ancillary shaft wheel is there for a reason. It is this that you should use to set the shaft timing. No need to look at the bolt and paint the flange. Also the reason there is a clash if the timing is wrong is because the conrod hits the shaft lobe which drives the mechanical fuel pump. The lobe can actually be cut off and the oil gallery plugged if an electric pump is used. No chance of a clash then.
I have a question about the timing mark. My 2.0 didn't come with one and I've been timing by ear. I just got one and it seems one end is threaded and the other end pinned somehow to the seal carrier so I guess you can move it and or it doesn't come flying off into the motor. Can you just explain a little how it's attached? Thanks for all the videos.
Hi Eldest, putting a new head on my 79 spider, used your video as a timing belt replacement refresher, so great to have these videos to go back to any time. Thank you! I will let you know how the new head works, it's a slight upgrade but I need to wait for the snow to melt.
Good for you buddy, glad the videos helped. Enjoy your build
Could you please explain more in details on why it's so important for the auxiliary to be at the right position
Sure, the aux shaft drives the mechanical fuel pump via a lobe. Even if you don't have the pump anymore because it's been switched to electric the lobe is still there. The aux shaft has to be timed in order to not interfere with the crankshaft and pistons movements. In the video I show how when the shaft is out of place the crankshaft hits it. As long as you set it up right, everything turns in time.
Good enough?
Being more specific, it's the conrod that the lobe hits, not the actual crank.
Couple of comments. The dot on the ancillary shaft wheel is there for a reason. It is this that you should use to set the shaft timing. No need to look at the bolt and paint the flange. Also the reason there is a clash if the timing is wrong is because the conrod hits the shaft lobe which drives the mechanical fuel pump. The lobe can actually be cut off and the oil gallery plugged if an electric pump is used. No chance of a clash then.
Thanks
I have a question about the timing mark. My 2.0 didn't come with one and I've been timing by ear. I just got one and it seems one end is threaded and the other end pinned somehow to the seal carrier so I guess you can move it and or it doesn't come flying off into the motor. Can you just explain a little how it's attached? Thanks for all the videos.
Yes, just like you said. About the 2 minute mark in the timing belt video.
th-cam.com/video/ZFXvSvRPD8c/w-d-xo.html