Just a suggestion. Use a LAB SCISSOR JACK to avoid all of the various blocks and lifting. Set the M1 on higher blocks use the handle on the lab jack to lift and lower the project to the desired height. This is much more accurate and faster for the rotary tool.
What a great video! That helps so much, I had so many questions when trying to initially use my rotary with glass. It was excellent and very informative, so thank you for taking the time to make these videos and put them out here to share and see. Love the shop too
Great tutorial as always. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. Every video you put out and all the feedbacks you share on FB has been very helpful for me getting started. I did want to comment on one thing that helped me. I am not sure 100% so if you could test it out as well that would be awesome, but if I recall from my own experience, I think when you have risers, you need to set the mode to either Laser cylindrical (in this case) or plane before you do auto-measure. My guess is that flat is when you have the base plate so I don't know what difference the laser sees since point of laser to the object should not change based on raisers but for some reason it helped me use auto measure when I was trying to engrave on a mug cup. Sorry if I this is not acurate.
Wow! I wish I'd seen your video earlier. I wasted so much time with acrylic markers and auto measuring that never seemed to work. Thank you so much! Can you tell me where you got the measurement ruler from please?
You are welcome! You can find the ruler here: support.xtool.com/hc/en-us/articles/4798482462231-xTool-M1-Manual-Focusing-Tutorial-in-Laser-Cylindrical-Mode
Things happens and it was your first try; you did learn and it was a good job. Could you use the paint in an air spray? That way it will lay even in the glass.
You definitely can use an air spray. I have learned a few things along the way after making this video and have better results as I perfected the method. Spraying Tempera paint is definitely the way to go when it comes to getting a nice smooth coat.
I love your videos and have found all of them so helpful. Thank you so much for sharing. I'm a newbie with my M1. I know with other laser engravers you don't have to color blocking or paint to engrave wine/liquor bottles. So far I've only seen empty glasses and cups engraved on the M1. I was wondering if you would be able to engrave wine or liquor bottles with the M1?
With this lower power diode laser you need something coating the glass to make the etching work. There are a few different methods but this is the one I went with 1st. I am not sure if you can do it while it has liquid inside however I don't see why not. It's not penetrating the glass or really heating it up that much so it might just work. You might test it on an old bottle with water in it
I was thinking about this while cutting the grass. I would definitely do some google searching before trying this. I would hate to see that glass break and possibly ruin your rotary tool or your M1!
Love your videos. I've had good success with the black tempera paint using the same settings that you did. If you let the paint dry naturally, I find it does not have a tendency to crack as much, though, so you might have better results that way. I'm anxious to try the purple colour. Also, just wondering if you normally wear protective eyewear when your machine is up on risers in case of light escaping from the bottom?
Thank you so much for the kind word and the advice! I didnt think about the cracking because of the fast drying. I will definitely try it again at a slower speed OFF camera haha. As far as the protective eyewear, i do not. I have seen people cover the sides with cardboard or even fabricate curtains they velcro to the M1. I try not to look at it too much when its elevated unless i am looking directly down into the lid portion.
Once you etched your writings/image and rinse off the tempera paint with running water, how do you get the words or image to appear on the glass? Thanks
I have! I am excited to see it. I actually have already purchased a unit from a FB member's Etsy page I am currently testing. It is very well made. It is almost a DIY solution because you must provide the pump/air line, and route your airline.
XCS is the only engraving software I have tried since this is my first engraver and only one I have. The software just covers the basics from what I understand. Plus it still has bugs and they are still developing it. For me, I have been using a combination of Inkscape and XCS to get by. Inkscape to create vector lines and XCS to finalize and send to the M1. So far, it's working out ok.
Currently, the only way to send a job to the M1 is using the xTool XCS (xTool Creative Space) software. I have also used Inkscape to add cut/score (aka vector) lines to a PNG image and saved it as a SVG (see my acrylic video). And I have used AutoCAD to make a couple of DXF files for it. DXF files are read by XCS as vector lines.
Not sure I understand why purple would be best since it is 50% red+50%blue. I would think that would be 50% effective at best compared to say black? Wouldn't the blue in the purple weaken the blue leds significantly?
Great question! I wish I knew the answer but i do not. I just see online that Purple and Black work best and Purple is what the store had. I did not have any trouble with using it.
I am not sure but a quick search online says that since tempered glass already went through a heating process, applying a laser to it could shatternit. The M1 is a diode laser, I would add that to your search terms when investigating it. Good luck!
Thanks for all your videos..has been a great help to this newbie. Just wanted to pass along a couple of things I have done and had success on glass. I have been using black(will try purple) and using small sponge brushes. When I apply the paint..I have been doing two coats, but applying each coat in opposite directions...across and then down. And like like you said, light coats, but seem to get pretty coverage that way. Question? When you attached the rotary to m1 did you have to be online or download any software or did it automatically recognize it.?
Good tips on the application. I attached the rotary tool with the M1 powered-off. The software does not recognize it is plugged in. You must manually set the program to laser cylindrical when you want to use it.
I have seen that too. I want to try out other methods and hope to test out another method soon. This one was the most convenient because there is a craft store down the road from here and that paint is super cheap.
Hello, thank you for this video! I have a question, can we use any paint? or necessarily this one? because today I tried with my M1, I had covered the back of my glass with blue tape so the laser could detect it but it didn't work.. it even cut the tape through the glass haha. Thank you for your response, your advice is appreciated.
Hey there! So I know X tool makes a marking paper that you wet apply it let it dry and then use that, you can use this paint I used here, or you can use any marking spray used for laser etching. If you're gonna use this paint don't do what I did and put it on too thick, use thinner layers. Read some of the comments here for some more tips. I believe some other people added some notes.
Thanks for your videos! I should have watched a littler more carefully on my first use of the rotary on a glass. I could have saved a pair of my socks from getting "etched" if I had paid attention to you putting in the foil :-D
The only metal that I have engraved on are the dog tags in a previous video. Also, as a test, I engraved an image on a piece of metal that has a painted coat on top of the metal (almost like a tumbler) but that is all I have done. If your not a member of the Official M1 group on FB, I highly recommend you do. There are some amazing people on there making some really cool projects with the M1.
Hi, Do you know if the D1 air assist fits the M1? I have been told that it does and I have been told that it doesn’t. Can you clear this up please? Thanks, Andy
Great question. Unfortunately I do not know. In the FB group, there are 2-3 users working on an air assist design for the M1. Because they are working on a new design, I am guessing that the D1 air assist does not fit.
Suggestions have you tried airbrushing that paint. No brush strokes, paint lays even. Harbor Freight has a cheap pour and spray airbrush. Hobby Lobby had a cheap one to. Use 25 to 35 psi on those air brushes. I have an Iwata Airbrush not cheap. I want to start laser etching shoes then paint. I do shoes but the process by paint and airbrush take time and lots of painters tape.
Hola, muchisimas gracias por tus videos, me gustaria aprender a grabar en pulseras o anillos con el rotativo, me puedes ayudar? felicidades por tu trabajo!
You can! I have seen people do some amazing things with these little 10W diode lasers and engraving on the back of iPhones/iPads is one of them. If it is anodized aluminum like an iPad or MacBook, then sure. However, the gorilla glass is etchable but the results are not smooth feeling.
Sorry to hear that. What results are you getting? In the video, I did put my paint on too thick and dried it too quick. Thinner layers and building it up helps.
Hmm. Maybe it is the glass you tried it on? Or it could be out of focus. Have you tried the manual ruler method to measure the height? I have done this same technique 4 different times with the same results you see in the video.
This video answered lots of questions as far as the paint application. Can you make one showing the proper amount applied and how it was done? Showing poor results allowed us to see the amount applied to get a bad job. Please show the proper amount to get the desired results.
I can tell you that have successfully etched glass using this same method multiple times. The only difference is when making the video, I tried to speed up the process by drying it quickly and that was my fault. It went on too thick and it was lumpy. After doing it a few times, I now water the paint down and I let it air dry. If you check out my clear acrylic etching video, you can see how I apply the paint better.
Man, if you get a wedding order for 100 or these it would talk a long time. Someone needs to come up with a fast, easy, CLEAN, method of doing this. I've watched newer vids and there still isn't a good option. 🤷♂
Since this is a diode laser, there only specific colors it can cut due to the laser type. Black cast acrylic cuts really nice. I have a video or two showing how well it cuts black. It can handle other colors as well. It works best on darker opaque acrylics. It will not affect aluminum much. I actually use aluminum under my cut items to protect the base plate.
Very interesting, first time i have seen purple used. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thanks for the warm wishes! I think the darker colors work best. Purple was the darkest i could find at my local store at the time.
Another GREAT video. Got my M1 last week and I’m working up the courage to try a wine glass.
Practice makes perfect! This was a dollar store glass.
The Ruler 👌 Thanks for the link.
You are welcome!
Just a suggestion.
Use a LAB SCISSOR JACK to avoid all of the various blocks and lifting. Set the M1 on higher blocks use the handle on the lab jack to lift and lower the project to the desired height. This is much more accurate and faster for the rotary tool.
I have seen those. Looks really handy. I think if I ever get a permanent spot for my M1, I will look at getting one of those. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for this tutotial❤ very helpful!
You’re welcome 😊
What a great video! That helps so much, I had so many questions when trying to initially use my rotary with glass. It was excellent and very informative, so thank you for taking the time to make these videos and put them out here to share and see. Love the shop too
Thank you for the feedback! I am glad they have been helpful to you. Have fun!
Great tutorial as always. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. Every video you put out and all the feedbacks you share on FB has been very helpful for me getting started. I did want to comment on one thing that helped me. I am not sure 100% so if you could test it out as well that would be awesome, but if I recall from my own experience, I think when you have risers, you need to set the mode to either Laser cylindrical (in this case) or plane before you do auto-measure. My guess is that flat is when you have the base plate so I don't know what difference the laser sees since point of laser to the object should not change based on raisers but for some reason it helped me use auto measure when I was trying to engrave on a mug cup. Sorry if I this is not acurate.
Good observation! I will try switching methods to see if it helps next time. Thank you!
Very interesting 🤔. Thank you for sharing
You are welcome.
Thanks for the video. I use Preval spray system to apply my tempura paint. Goes on much more evenly than brushing. It only costs about $8
That sounds interesting, I will definitely check it out!
I find it works better when I thin the tempura with water for the spray.
What do you do about fumes? Do you have the X Tool air purifier? Or do you use something else?
I use my lasers in my garage with the door open unless its raining then I just crack it open by a foot and just vent out to the open air.
Wow! I wish I'd seen your video earlier. I wasted so much time with acrylic markers and auto measuring that never seemed to work. Thank you so much! Can you tell me where you got the measurement ruler from please?
You are welcome! You can find the ruler here:
support.xtool.com/hc/en-us/articles/4798482462231-xTool-M1-Manual-Focusing-Tutorial-in-Laser-Cylindrical-Mode
Awesome video. Have you discovered a hack to cut thru clear and mirrored acrylics
Sorry, it can't be done with a diode laser. You will need a CO2 laser.
Things happens and it was your first try; you did learn and it was a good job. Could you use the paint in an air spray? That way it will lay even in the glass.
You definitely can use an air spray. I have learned a few things along the way after making this video and have better results as I perfected the method. Spraying Tempera paint is definitely the way to go when it comes to getting a nice smooth coat.
Have you tried engraving plastic cow tags?
No I have not. Sorry.
ok, where can i find that special ruler?
support.xtool.com/hc/en-us/articles/4798482462231-xTool-M1-Manual-Focusing-Tutorial-in-Laser-Cylindrical-Mode
I love your videos and have found all of them so helpful. Thank you so much for sharing. I'm a newbie with my M1. I know with other laser engravers you don't have to color blocking or paint to engrave wine/liquor bottles. So far I've only seen empty glasses and cups engraved on the M1. I was wondering if you would be able to engrave wine or liquor bottles with the M1?
With this lower power diode laser you need something coating the glass to make the etching work. There are a few different methods but this is the one I went with 1st. I am not sure if you can do it while it has liquid inside however I don't see why not. It's not penetrating the glass or really heating it up that much so it might just work. You might test it on an old bottle with water in it
@@MonkeyWoodworks thank you so much for your reply
I was thinking about this while cutting the grass. I would definitely do some google searching before trying this. I would hate to see that glass break and possibly ruin your rotary tool or your M1!
Love your videos. I've had good success with the black tempera paint using the same settings that you did. If you let the paint dry naturally, I find it does not have a tendency to crack as much, though, so you might have better results that way. I'm anxious to try the purple colour. Also, just wondering if you normally wear protective eyewear when your machine is up on risers in case of light escaping from the bottom?
Thank you so much for the kind word and the advice! I didnt think about the cracking because of the fast drying. I will definitely try it again at a slower speed OFF camera haha. As far as the protective eyewear, i do not. I have seen people cover the sides with cardboard or even fabricate curtains they velcro to the M1. I try not to look at it too much when its elevated unless i am looking directly down into the lid portion.
Once you etched your writings/image and rinse off the tempera paint with running water, how do you get the words or image to appear on the glass? Thanks
The laser used the paint as a medium to scratch (etch) the glass. Once rinsed, the glass was perminantly etched with the image.
@@MonkeyWoodworks thank you for the clarifications.
great! great! great!👏👏👏
Hopefully you found it helpful!
Thank you🎉
You are welcome!
Have you seen where they are preparing to launch the air assist for M1. I just wanted your opinion.
I have! I am excited to see it. I actually have already purchased a unit from a FB member's Etsy page I am currently testing. It is very well made. It is almost a DIY solution because you must provide the pump/air line, and route your airline.
Can you use painters tape instead of the paint?
I have not tried that.
Think you need to have it set to Laser Cylindrical first for auto measure to work?
I believe you are right. My mind goes blank when I start making videos at times.
I noticed that you use xtool creative space, do you use lightburn also? Thanks
The xTool M1 is not compatible with lightburn yet so XCS is all we have to work with when feeding the engraver.
@@MonkeyWoodworks do you find xcs good enough for all your engraving? Have you tried xcs on xtool D1?
XCS is the only engraving software I have tried since this is my first engraver and only one I have. The software just covers the basics from what I understand. Plus it still has bugs and they are still developing it. For me, I have been using a combination of Inkscape and XCS to get by. Inkscape to create vector lines and XCS to finalize and send to the M1. So far, it's working out ok.
@@MonkeyWoodworks thanks
what program are you using
Currently, the only way to send a job to the M1 is using the xTool XCS (xTool Creative Space) software. I have also used Inkscape to add cut/score (aka vector) lines to a PNG image and saved it as a SVG (see my acrylic video). And I have used AutoCAD to make a couple of DXF files for it. DXF files are read by XCS as vector lines.
Not sure I understand why purple would be best since it is 50% red+50%blue. I would think that would be 50% effective at best compared to say black? Wouldn't the blue in the purple weaken the blue leds significantly?
Great question! I wish I knew the answer but i do not. I just see online that Purple and Black work best and Purple is what the store had. I did not have any trouble with using it.
can this laser engrave on temper glass?
I am not sure but a quick search online says that since tempered glass already went through a heating process, applying a laser to it could shatternit. The M1 is a diode laser, I would add that to your search terms when investigating it. Good luck!
Where can we get a measuring gauge as the one you use?
Xtool.com. search for "ruler" in the support section. Also check their TH-cam channel, I made a video for them on the ruler there.
Thanks
Can you paint the inside? Or does it have to be the side that will be hit directly with the laser?
It has to be the side with the laser. It has something to do with using the paint as a carrier to affect the glass
Thanks for all your videos..has been a great help to this newbie. Just wanted to pass along a couple of things I have done and had success on glass. I have been using black(will try purple) and using small sponge brushes. When I apply the paint..I have been doing two coats, but applying each coat in opposite directions...across and then down. And like like you said, light coats, but seem to get pretty coverage that way.
Question? When you attached the rotary to m1 did you have to be online or download any software or did it automatically recognize it.?
Good tips on the application. I attached the rotary tool with the M1 powered-off. The software does not recognize it is plugged in. You must manually set the program to laser cylindrical when you want to use it.
What Clipart software do you use?
I am not good at creating images. I just use Google image search. Is that what your asking?
@@MonkeyWoodworks yes, we will try that. Thanks
I saw someone use Dry Molly on metal to engrave , wonder how it would do w/ glass
I have seen that too. I want to try out other methods and hope to test out another method soon. This one was the most convenient because there is a craft store down the road from here and that paint is super cheap.
Подскажите, можно ли использовать акриловкю краску?
I am not sure. All you can do is try. Make sure it is brushed on evenly.
@@MonkeyWoodworks спасибо, мой друг!
You are welcome
Hello, thank you for this video! I have a question, can we use any paint? or necessarily this one?
because today I tried with my M1, I had covered the back of my glass with blue tape so the laser could detect it but it didn't work.. it even cut the tape through the glass haha.
Thank you for your response, your advice is appreciated.
Hey there! So I know X tool makes a marking paper that you wet apply it let it dry and then use that, you can use this paint I used here, or you can use any marking spray used for laser etching. If you're gonna use this paint don't do what I did and put it on too thick, use thinner layers. Read some of the comments here for some more tips. I believe some other people added some notes.
@@MonkeyWoodworks thank you for your reply! I hope to get there!
hi would these settings, speed, power etc work on the d1 xtool
also? many thanks again!
They should if it's a 10watt. And you are welcome!
20w mate
@@MonkeyWoodworks
@@kingsleybrett If that is the case, I don't think my settings will work.
Thanks for your videos! I should have watched a littler more carefully on my first use of the rotary on a glass. I could have saved a pair of my socks from getting "etched" if I had paid attention to you putting in the foil :-D
Hah! Glad it was just an etching and not a fire!
Have you tried a photo on metal )
The only metal that I have engraved on are the dog tags in a previous video. Also, as a test, I engraved an image on a piece of metal that has a painted coat on top of the metal (almost like a tumbler) but that is all I have done. If your not a member of the Official M1 group on FB, I highly recommend you do. There are some amazing people on there making some really cool projects with the M1.
@@MonkeyWoodworks ok cool will check this out. Thanks )
Hi, Do you know if the D1 air assist fits the M1? I have been told that it does and I have been told that it doesn’t. Can you clear this up please? Thanks, Andy
Great question. Unfortunately I do not know. In the FB group, there are 2-3 users working on an air assist design for the M1. Because they are working on a new design, I am guessing that the D1 air assist does not fit.
What happens if you don't use paint at all?
You need some type of medium for the laser to hit. Otherwise, a diode laser will shoot right through the glass as if it were a flashlight.
Isn't that aluminum foil going to cause some destructive reflections back into your laser?
Ot is possible. However, I have never had an issue
Gracias fue de mucha ayuda
You are welcome!
Suggestions have you tried airbrushing that paint. No brush strokes, paint lays even. Harbor Freight has a cheap pour and spray airbrush. Hobby Lobby had a cheap one to. Use 25 to 35 psi on those air brushes. I have an Iwata Airbrush not cheap. I want to start laser etching shoes then paint. I do shoes but the process by paint and airbrush take time and lots of painters tape.
That's a good idea, I'll have to look into that. I know you can water that stuff down pretty good
@@MonkeyWoodworks let me know if it works. Going to spend $2500 on this black Friday deal. Getting the D1 20W Productivity Kit.
Oh I wonder if you can get it through my affiliate link? Haha. Just kidding. I bet you can't wait to get that thing!
Where did u get the ruler??
support.xtool.com/hc/en-us/articles/4798482462231-xTool-M1-Manual-Focusing-Tutorial-in-Laser-Cylindrical-Mode
Hola, muchisimas gracias por tus videos, me gustaria aprender a grabar en pulseras o anillos con el rotativo, me puedes ayudar? felicidades por tu trabajo!
I have the new RA2 pro now but have not had a chnace to use it much. Once i get more familiar with it, i will be sure to make a video about it.
❤
You are welcome!
Could you etch an iPhone back ?
You can! I have seen people do some amazing things with these little 10W diode lasers and engraving on the back of iPhones/iPads is one of them. If it is anodized aluminum like an iPad or MacBook, then sure. However, the gorilla glass is etchable but the results are not smooth feeling.
I can smell that paint ... lol :D
Hah. It's a distinct smell!
Use airbrush to get paint evenly on the glass.
That's what I have been told! I need to get me one.
As usual, great video. 🙏🏻 •"̮•·τнänκ_чöü·•"̮• 🙏🏻 Do we need this same technic if we want to engrave a ceramic, such as plate ?
I have not learned that technique yet so I am not a 100% sure. Once I figure it out I will be sure to do a video on it
I have tried everything and still cant get the same result as you.😢
Sorry to hear that. What results are you getting? In the video, I did put my paint on too thick and dried it too quick. Thinner layers and building it up helps.
I’m not getting the bright white like yours I tried to do multiple coats lightly.
I am using the M1 machine
Hmm. Maybe it is the glass you tried it on? Or it could be out of focus. Have you tried the manual ruler method to measure the height? I have done this same technique 4 different times with the same results you see in the video.
This video answered lots of questions as far as the paint application. Can you make one showing the proper amount applied and how it was done? Showing poor results allowed us to see the amount applied to get a bad job. Please show the proper amount to get the desired results.
I can tell you that have successfully etched glass using this same method multiple times. The only difference is when making the video, I tried to speed up the process by drying it quickly and that was my fault. It went on too thick and it was lumpy. After doing it a few times, I now water the paint down and I let it air dry. If you check out my clear acrylic etching video, you can see how I apply the paint better.
Man, if you get a wedding order for 100 or these it would talk a long time. Someone needs to come up with a fast, easy, CLEAN, method of doing this. I've watched newer vids and there still isn't a good option. 🤷♂
I hear ya. I have gotten better at the process since making this video but it is still a process.
How does that work on acrylic? Does it work on aluminum also?
Since this is a diode laser, there only specific colors it can cut due to the laser type. Black cast acrylic cuts really nice. I have a video or two showing how well it cuts black. It can handle other colors as well. It works best on darker opaque acrylics. It will not affect aluminum much. I actually use aluminum under my cut items to protect the base plate.
@@MonkeyWoodworks good to know ! I’m having difficulty cutting the non cast ( plastic ) cheap stuff , only wants to melt , engraving is ok !
Give cast a shot. I have had good luck with it. I have a link to the black cast I use on Amazon in the description of my acrylic videos.