The clutch in a bike I once owned used to stick after being sat for only a day or two. My solution was before starting I would engage second or third gear and disengage the clutch then rock the bike back and forth until it freed off. Sometimes it took a surprising amount of force to achieve. The higher the gear the more torque will be applied to the clutch plates.
I had the same thing with my GS since it had sat for about 7 years seized up. What I did was once I got it rebuilt and running (Never disassembled clutch basket) was to put it on center stand and start reving it in gear but with the clutch pulled in. Then you start popping the rear brake a little more each time trying to gently shock it. I got it up to around 4500 RPM in 1st gear and while pressing on the brake and it came loose. Then just run it a bit more while moving clutch full in to full out to allow the plates to "recondition" themselves.
Hey guys. Just had same problem with my 77 gs550. When clutch lever in the kick start also had no resistance and didn't disengage the gearbox from the engine. I ran the engine so the oil was warm then parked the bike up with the clutch lever held in with a clamp. Next morning it had loosened up a bit where I could push the bike back and forth in gear with clutch in. There was some resistance still but definitely easier. I kept pushing back and forth and it got easier and easier. This worked for me. All ok now. Bike had stood for approx 3 years as a non runner. Hope this helps. Cheers from Newcastle England.
I have a 1980 Kawasaki kz750e had the exact same problem and like you I found the problem on what was supposed to be my first ride. I was able to get it to roll in 1st and second with the clutch in but had alot of resistance. I blocked off my front wheel and clamped my clutch lever and let it idle for 30 minutes and now it's rolling free. Sat for 2 years and was told it needed a new gear box. Guess they were wrong. Either way I got it at a steal!!! Thanks for the vids keep it up!!! Also you got beautiful bike sir!
I think your problem is solved, if it whas mine just put together and enjoy your first ride 😏 In the beginning maybe a little slippery but that problem left pretty fast at my gs. I replaced my clutch-springs with heavy duty springs from the brand EBC, i prefer the original springs, much better. Nice work again! Your video’s are a great guide for gs- owners 👌
I had the same issue when i put my gs550 back together , and it was the helical screw assembly , you can change the throwout amount by feeding it into screw teeth in the wrong position , i had to unscrew it and engage it into the assembly the next tooth down which gave it more throwout as it put some preload onto tbhe cable . then its a matter of having a decent cable and following the adjustment sequence in the fsm .
Hey urban monk. Is this the part that you replaced in this video. I’m rebuilding a gs550 ‘77. Turning into cafe racer. I noticed when I received that the clutch was ridiculous. Would be very interested to know how you fix in the end. Anyway- great vids. No.... AMAZING vids. Your helping a biker over in the UK big thumbs up.
@@tombailey7854 Yes, the "helical screw" David mentions above is the part I refer to as "actuator" in my video. Suzuki parts diagram calls it Screw Assembly Release, part # 23200-30002. Thanks for your kind words.
It all looks pretty good. If it were me I would fit a new cable, fill it with oil, warm it up and try it. I assume that you inspected the hub and basket for notching where the plates contact them. Perhaps a lighter weight oil would be a better choice? It must frustrate you being so close to being able to go for a ride 😕 Good job mate, you’ll get there 👍
Thanks Andy. I'm betting you're right, that I've got it licked - just need that cable repaired. Working on that now. Love your channel and the new Ducati series!
I have the same issue on my kawasaki, i tough that i did something wrong, even both a brand new torque wrench. Now i have a little more confidence. I'll roll it up and see what happens.
Great video and info again as expected!! Love the small tips you always throw in that a book or forum would never supply! As for you sticky clutch, had the same prob on my 77, my opinion, button that thing back up n go out n pop it rolling down a hill! It worked for mine and haven't had a single prob since! Look forward to the next video UM!! Rock On!!
If you look at 1539 to 1545 of the video you can see the pivot bolt move not just in and out but side to side . The side to side movement is what is causing the misalignment of the cable as you squeeze the lever. The tight tern is also causing drag on the cable.
Thanks for your thoughts. I ruled out the tight turn by testing with the actuator assembly removed from the engine- there's no resistance there. I think when you say "pivot bolt" you mean the actuator. That is supposed to move laterally. Appreciate your ideas!
At 16:00 the angle of the arm that the cable pulls on seems wrong. It should be about 90 degrees when half way through the hand lever travel. It looks as if the cable is too short and this has been compensated for by adjusting the pushrod adjuster.
It's been years since I did this so I don't recall the details of this custom cable. All I know is it was a custom solution, not OEM. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I've got a problem with my GS550. The oilseal on the clutch push rod is leaking. Is there a video howcto replace the oilseal? Thanks in advance for your answer. Best Regards, Wilfred
Given the number of people who have shared the same experience here and my own, I'd have to say yes they do. Overall these bikes were a brilliant design that improved in many ways on the Honda CB design, but the clutch design is not one of those areas. That said, when they are "unstuck" they work fine.
Watched with much interest having just been through the same problem. Did you do a follow up video? For me it turned out to be the wrong washers on the bolts.
Honesty the biggest pain I have with my 81 GS550 is the screws they are crazy hard to get out and some I can’t get out without channel locks. I’m gonna replace them all the hex heads
The OEM screws are sometimes difficult to remove after years. Do you have an impact driver like this one? amzn.to/3bRDDM1 They make removing those screws a snap. One of my favorite tools in my toolbox. And then, yes, once you have them removed, hex head screws make great sense. A JIS screwdriver helps too. amzn.to/3Ajltge . Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV I’ll have to give that a shot! I finally got it to run an idle now I just have to work on getting the clutch unstuck and then it’s full steam ahead on everything else! I guess the front forks are going to be interesting because there is no top cap to open them up.
@@UrbanMonkTV little update for you couldn’t get the screws out so I had to drill the heads and pound a torx into them to break them out! All my springs are right at the limit. What was the torque spec you used for your bolts and I was wondering where you got new gaskets from!
@@MastaKeahi the torque spec for those clutch bolts is much lighter than one might think. I'll look it up when I'm back at my laptop and circle back with it.
Well I put new plates in my GS550 and I still get some clutch drag when it gets really hot, makes it stick in third when trying to change down. I think the helix thing is just a rubbish design. Helps if I back off the adjustment just a fraction after it bottoms out, rather than a quarter turn.
I won't argue with you regarding that helix actuator. Seems to have very poor mechanical advantage over the pushrod and thus the springs and makes things more difficult than they need to be. I lubed the heck out of mine and it seems to be working, but I still need some strong left hand grip.
Put new friction plates in my GS550 and it still does exactly what you find. Clutch drags when hot so can't get neutral and change down from 3rd is not possible unless I keep pressure on the gearlever and let the clutch out a bit. I think it is a case of 'they all do that sir'. Can be quite exciting in heavy traffic though. Thinking of changing the metal only plates in case they are warping when hot, since normally clutches drag when cold, not when they are hot - sigh.
Hi! did you ever resolve the issue? I have a 2001 KLR650 that is doing the exact same thing as your bike did in the beginning of the video. Im completely baffled myself. All the exact same issues. super tight clutch lever and jumping into first gear with a quick stall.
Yes I did. Had to break it loose by first warming up the engine completely (to the point where the clutch gets warm too) and then dropped it into gear with the clutch lever pulled about 20 times. It stalled the engine 19 times, 20th time it broke loose and has worked like a charm since. Found a lot of stories online saying this is common with the GS550 and many people used same technique to overcome. Go through everything first though like I did to be sure you didn't make a mistake. We're all only human. Thanks for watching!
Hey, The push rod that goes through the engine to the clutch... is the pin on the clutch side supposed to seat all the way down? Mine sits out about 5/16ths of an inch... that’s how it was when I took it apart
Depends on the position of the actuator on the other side. Not sure if you have that side apart. If not,, Take a look at the diagram on this parts breakout page. The actuator is a screw that moves laterally as it rotates. www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f579f8700230d8b4c65b/clutch-release Thanks for watching!
That music brings back some memories! Good stuff! You have any copies of that left? I wish we weren't a continent apart. Between the 2 of us something would surely get broken.
Hi, I see that when you squeeze the lever it is not pivoting properly I think that instead of pulling the cable straight out it is pulling the cable to one side of the passage it passes through I think the clip on bars are a tighter angle and the cable may be turning to much but the pivot point should be a pin in the middle of a bolt if it is just a bolt then the wire part of the cable will rub were it comes out of the tube part . I think a longer cable is a good idea and a spare cable zip tied to the frame.
I went back and reviewed and believe you may be on to something here. Thanks. Particularly in regards to cable length. I believe my inner cable should be longer at the actuator side so the line of pull of the cable runs on a tangent more perpendicular to the centerline of the radius of the actuator. If that makes sense.
I know this video is older but I just bought a 77 gs550 and mine is having similar issue mine will not stop pulling when you push the clutch in like mines sticking but I cant get mine in any gear other than 1st and neutral.did you ever figure out what your issue was thanks
@@michaeldamico5174 I was trying to break it loose so many times my camera battery died and when the moment came that I broke it loose, my camera battery was dead. I just kept popping the clutch (and killing the engine) until it broke loose and kept running.
Save yourself lot's of time, it's the old clutch plates they have a bad habit of getting sticky with age. I've had this happen on two old bikes. Fit new plates, then no problem, it's a cheap fix.
I think I'm going to really enjoy going through all your videos. Question -- I installed a new clutch cable on my GR 650 as the old one was stretched. I adjusted it to spec from the manual. It won't go into gear now or rather you can hear the transmission thunk like it is going into gear but it won;t move. Clutch plates stuck like your problem above. Actuator? It shifted fine before I switched the old one out.
Thanks for watching! The actuator and its adjuster are the first things that I'd check. Also you're correct in thinking you might have stuck clutch plates. May have to knock them loose. Is it killing the engine when you put it into gear?
Actually -- no it doesn't kill the engine at all -- it doesn't do anything. As I said before it functioned fine before I did the cable install-- but because of the stretch it went out of adjustment quickly and the adjustment nuts were at the end of the bolts. Do you think that the actuator would fail immediately upon install?
@@jamesfrank505 So it's behaving as if the clutch plates are not coming together at all. Either an adjustment issue or worn (but you said they were working fine before).
Great video, by the way i have a problem with my gz250 and it's that it wont change gears. I mean i only can have it in neutral. How it's that possible?
Thanks for watching. There's more than one reason why that may be happening and it is difficult for me to diagnose from my armchair here. Does the engine run? Do you have a paddock stand for the rear swingarm? If so, will it shift into other gears while running with the rear wheel off the ground (no clutch necessary under these conditions)? Could be worn or broken shift fork inside transmission. Could be other transmission shift linkage though too. Again, hard for me to tell here.
@@megazord666 These GSs are a bit notorious for having sticky clutches upon assembly. They have to be "knocked loose" and they they tend to work just fine unless they're allowed to sit without running for ling periods of time. I just kept dropping it into gear (which killed the engine) until eventually it came unstuck.
Is there an orientation to the metal clutch plates? Seems to me that one side has a chamfer on it and there's an O or a zero stamped on one side. I assume that means out?
Great question. I know the chamfer you speak of and had the same thought. That said, the SM says nothing about the orientation of the disks. As I recall, I installed mine exactly as you describe, stamp out. These clutches are notoriously sticky at first run after rebuild. I have a video on what I had to do to get it unstuck. Thanks for watching!
I did. Was sticking plates. It was such a frustrating process that I stopped recording with camera but the short answer is I kept dropping it into gear with the clutch lever pulled in until it became unstuck. Took about 20 tries. Thanks for watching!
You came to the right place for grace. 🙂 Yes, the left side sprocket cover needs to come off to access the clutch pushrod seal. It's quite simple and easily accessed under that cover. 3 small bolts hold it in. Seal is part number 09285-06011. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the reply. It’s looking like I have to remove the gear shift linkage to get to the seal. Unless I’m missing something but I took off the sprocket cover and I can’t seem to get to it.
@@BauerCasey There should be a plate holding it in with three small bolts holding the plate. Part #3 in this diagram www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f569f8700230d8b4c616/clutch-release
One way to look at is "being cheap." Another way is to consider that every quart of oil consumed on this planet has an environmental impact (negatively) and to get full use of yours is not necessarily an environmentally friendly thing to do, but it minimizes the negative impact a bit. It's the "reuse" in "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle." And yeah, it saves you some $. Thanks for watching!
Sorry for late reply. TH-cam doesn't alert me to new comments very well. Had to hunt to find your question here. Not much on those bolts. Around 5-6 lb.ft.
@@UrbanMonkTV If you are careful you can turn the bag inside out as you take it off your container then I would be happy to dispose of it as I would a oil bottle. I got this idea from a painter decorator who uses it with paint.
Jag bytte olja och det hjälpte. Jag behövde frigöra kopplingen snabbt många gånger för att bryta loss den. Det fungerar bra nu. Tack för att du tittade.
The clutch in a bike I once owned used to stick after being sat for only a day or two.
My solution was before starting I would engage second or third gear and disengage the clutch then rock the bike back and forth until it freed off. Sometimes it took a surprising amount of force to achieve. The higher the gear the more torque will be applied to the clutch plates.
I had the same thing with my GS since it had sat for about 7 years seized up. What I did was once I got it rebuilt and running (Never disassembled clutch basket) was to put it on center stand and start reving it in gear but with the clutch pulled in. Then you start popping the rear brake a little more each time trying to gently shock it. I got it up to around 4500 RPM in 1st gear and while pressing on the brake and it came loose. Then just run it a bit more while moving clutch full in to full out to allow the plates to "recondition" themselves.
Did you soak plates in oil/ oil up before assembly???
@@joey5712 Yes I soaked them for about 2 days in oil. But before I was able to start the engine it sat for about 3 weeks.
Hey guys. Just had same problem with my 77 gs550. When clutch lever in the kick start also had no resistance and didn't disengage the gearbox from the engine. I ran the engine so the oil was warm then parked the bike up with the clutch lever held in with a clamp. Next morning it had loosened up a bit where I could push the bike back and forth in gear with clutch in. There was some resistance still but definitely easier. I kept pushing back and forth and it got easier and easier. This worked for me. All ok now. Bike had stood for approx 3 years as a non runner. Hope this helps. Cheers from Newcastle England.
Thanks for sharing! I'm sure it will help many gs owners.
I have a 1980 Kawasaki kz750e had the exact same problem and like you I found the problem on what was supposed to be my first ride. I was able to get it to roll in 1st and second with the clutch in but had alot of resistance. I blocked off my front wheel and clamped my clutch lever and let it idle for 30 minutes and now it's rolling free. Sat for 2 years and was told it needed a new gear box. Guess they were wrong. Either way I got it at a steal!!! Thanks for the vids keep it up!!! Also you got beautiful bike sir!
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
I think your problem is solved, if it whas mine just put together and enjoy your first ride 😏
In the beginning maybe a little slippery but that problem left pretty fast at my gs.
I replaced my clutch-springs with heavy duty springs from the brand EBC, i prefer the original springs, much better.
Nice work again!
Your video’s are a great guide for gs- owners 👌
Got same issue with my bandit 650. Will have a look at all what uve looked at when changing oil. Thanks for that video
Good news is...you will get it solved. Thanks for watching.
I had the same issue when i put my gs550 back together , and it was the helical screw assembly , you can change the throwout amount by feeding it into screw teeth in the wrong position , i had to unscrew it and engage it into the assembly the next tooth down which gave it more throwout as it put some preload onto tbhe cable . then its a matter of having a decent cable and following the adjustment sequence in the fsm .
Thanks! A good friend proposed a similar line of thinking. I'm beginning to think you're both right. Thank you for watching.
Hey urban monk. Is this the part that you replaced in this video. I’m rebuilding a gs550 ‘77. Turning into cafe racer. I noticed when I received that the clutch was ridiculous. Would be very interested to know how you fix in the end.
Anyway- great vids. No.... AMAZING vids. Your helping a biker over in the UK big thumbs up.
@@tombailey7854 Yes, the "helical screw" David mentions above is the part I refer to as "actuator" in my video. Suzuki parts diagram calls it Screw Assembly Release, part # 23200-30002. Thanks for your kind words.
It all looks pretty good. If it were me I would fit a new cable, fill it with oil, warm it up and try it. I assume that you inspected the hub and basket for notching where the plates contact them. Perhaps a lighter weight oil would be a better choice? It must frustrate you being so close to being able to go for a ride 😕 Good job mate, you’ll get there 👍
Thanks Andy. I'm betting you're right, that I've got it licked - just need that cable repaired. Working on that now. Love your channel and the new Ducati series!
I think Andy should come to the states and ride up to The Quail with us. While he's here he can help me fix my Ducati
I have the same issue on my kawasaki, i tough that i did something wrong, even both a brand new torque wrench. Now i have a little more confidence. I'll roll it up and see what happens.
Great video and info again as expected!! Love the small tips you always throw in that a book or forum would never supply! As for you sticky clutch, had the same prob on my 77, my opinion, button that thing back up n go out n pop it rolling down a hill! It worked for mine and haven't had a single prob since! Look forward to the next video UM!! Rock On!!
Thanks! I may increase length on inner cable and then do just as you suggest! 🙏🙂
If you look at 1539 to 1545 of the video you can see the pivot bolt move not just in and out but side to side . The side to side movement is what is causing the misalignment of the cable as you squeeze the lever. The tight tern is also causing drag on the cable.
Thanks for your thoughts. I ruled out the tight turn by testing with the actuator assembly removed from the engine- there's no resistance there. I think when you say "pivot bolt" you mean the actuator. That is supposed to move laterally. Appreciate your ideas!
At 16:00 the angle of the arm that the cable pulls on seems wrong. It should be about 90 degrees when half way through the hand lever travel. It looks as if the cable is too short and this has been compensated for by adjusting the pushrod adjuster.
It's been years since I did this so I don't recall the details of this custom cable. All I know is it was a custom solution, not OEM. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I've got a problem with my GS550. The oilseal on the clutch push rod is leaking. Is there a video howcto replace the oilseal? Thanks in advance for your answer. Best Regards, Wilfred
I'm sorry, I haven't done a video on that specifically. Thank you for watching though!
do this old GS have an above average tendency to stick? I bought a couple project GS750L that are both bound up.
Given the number of people who have shared the same experience here and my own, I'd have to say yes they do. Overall these bikes were a brilliant design that improved in many ways on the Honda CB design, but the clutch design is not one of those areas. That said, when they are "unstuck" they work fine.
Watched with much interest having just been through the same problem. Did you do a follow up video? For me it turned out to be the wrong washers on the bolts.
Thanks for watching. I did explain how I eventually got it unstuck in a following video in the series.
@@UrbanMonkTV I couldn't find the follow-up video could you send me the link thanks
22:17 I love your pancakes with sirup !!
😄 Thanks for watching.
Why didn't you roll it without the clutch installed? That would have ruled out whether it Is a clutch issue altogether.
Thanks, but it was definitely the clutch. Thanks for watching!
Honesty the biggest pain I have with my 81 GS550 is the screws they are crazy hard to get out and some I can’t get out without channel locks. I’m gonna replace them all the hex heads
The OEM screws are sometimes difficult to remove after years. Do you have an impact driver like this one? amzn.to/3bRDDM1 They make removing those screws a snap. One of my favorite tools in my toolbox. And then, yes, once you have them removed, hex head screws make great sense. A JIS screwdriver helps too. amzn.to/3Ajltge . Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV I’ll have to give that a shot! I finally got it to run an idle now I just have to work on getting the clutch unstuck and then it’s full steam ahead on everything else! I guess the front forks are going to be interesting because there is no top cap to open them up.
@@UrbanMonkTV little update for you couldn’t get the screws out so I had to drill the heads and pound a torx into them to break them out! All my springs are right at the limit. What was the torque spec you used for your bolts and I was wondering where you got new gaskets from!
@@MastaKeahi the torque spec for those clutch bolts is much lighter than one might think. I'll look it up when I'm back at my laptop and circle back with it.
@@UrbanMonkTV thanks! I really appreciate it!
I have a Norton with the same problem.
I guess it is slightly better than the opposite problem - a clutch that won't stay engaged. :) Thanks for watching!
hi found the problem neutral position sensor. dirt and grimmed up!
Well I put new plates in my GS550 and I still get some clutch drag when it gets really hot, makes it stick in third when trying to change down. I think the helix thing is just a rubbish design. Helps if I back off the adjustment just a fraction after it bottoms out, rather than a quarter turn.
I won't argue with you regarding that helix actuator. Seems to have very poor mechanical advantage over the pushrod and thus the springs and makes things more difficult than they need to be. I lubed the heck out of mine and it seems to be working, but I still need some strong left hand grip.
Put new friction plates in my GS550 and it still does exactly what you find. Clutch drags when hot so can't get neutral and change down from 3rd is not possible unless I keep pressure on the gearlever and let the clutch out a bit. I think it is a case of 'they all do that sir'. Can be quite exciting in heavy traffic though. Thinking of changing the metal only plates in case they are warping when hot, since normally clutches drag when cold, not when they are hot - sigh.
Hi! did you ever resolve the issue? I have a 2001 KLR650 that is doing the exact same thing as your bike did in the beginning of the video. Im completely baffled myself. All the exact same issues. super tight clutch lever and jumping into first gear with a quick stall.
Yes I did. Had to break it loose by first warming up the engine completely (to the point where the clutch gets warm too) and then dropped it into gear with the clutch lever pulled about 20 times. It stalled the engine 19 times, 20th time it broke loose and has worked like a charm since. Found a lot of stories online saying this is common with the GS550 and many people used same technique to overcome. Go through everything first though like I did to be sure you didn't make a mistake. We're all only human. Thanks for watching!
Hey, The push rod that goes through the engine to the clutch... is the pin on the clutch side supposed to seat all the way down? Mine sits out about 5/16ths of an inch... that’s how it was when I took it apart
Depends on the position of the actuator on the other side. Not sure if you have that side apart. If not,, Take a look at the diagram on this parts breakout page. The actuator is a screw that moves laterally as it rotates. www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f579f8700230d8b4c65b/clutch-release Thanks for watching!
That music brings back some memories! Good stuff! You have any copies of that left? I wish we weren't a continent apart. Between the 2 of us something would surely get broken.
Monk's choice in music has been a high point for me throughout the entire build. Content plus good music has made this entire series A+
When we were young his brother would pick me and my bass up for band practice on his CM250. I sucked but hey....I had a bass.
Yes, you can stream it on Amazon Music.
Hi, I see that when you squeeze the lever it is not pivoting properly I think that instead of pulling the cable straight out it is pulling the cable to one side of the passage it passes through I think the clip on bars are a tighter angle and the cable may be turning to much but the pivot point should be a pin in the middle of a bolt if it is just a bolt then the wire part of the cable will rub were it comes out of the tube part . I think a longer cable is a good idea and a spare cable zip tied to the frame.
I went back and reviewed and believe you may be on to something here. Thanks. Particularly in regards to cable length. I believe my inner cable should be longer at the actuator side so the line of pull of the cable runs on a tangent more perpendicular to the centerline of the radius of the actuator. If that makes sense.
@@UrbanMonkTV about 7 o'clock . Not 25 or 6 to 4.
@@UrbanMonkTV about 7 o'clock.
@@carlvitale744 Thinking you're right on that. And love Chicago! 🙂👍
I know this video is older but I just bought a 77 gs550 and mine is having similar issue mine will not stop pulling when you push the clutch in like mines sticking but I cant get mine in any gear other than 1st and neutral.did you ever figure out what your issue was thanks
I just had to crack mine loose and adjust helix actuator properly.
@@UrbanMonkTV was there a point in this video you did that or in another video? What kind of adjustment? My 78’ 550 is having same issue.
@@michaeldamico5174 I was trying to break it loose so many times my camera battery died and when the moment came that I broke it loose, my camera battery was dead. I just kept popping the clutch (and killing the engine) until it broke loose and kept running.
@@UrbanMonkTV Ah got it, Thanks!
Save yourself lot's of time, it's the old clutch plates they have a bad habit of getting sticky with age. I've had this happen on two old bikes. Fit new plates, then no problem, it's a cheap fix.
Sorry for late reply. TH-cam didn't notify me of your comment. Thanks for watching. I got them unstuck and they're working great.
I think I'm going to really enjoy going through all your videos. Question -- I installed a new clutch cable on my GR 650 as the old one was stretched. I adjusted it to spec from the manual. It won't go into gear now or rather you can hear the transmission thunk like it is going into gear but it won;t move. Clutch plates stuck like your problem above. Actuator? It shifted fine before I switched the old one out.
Thanks for watching! The actuator and its adjuster are the first things that I'd check. Also you're correct in thinking you might have stuck clutch plates. May have to knock them loose. Is it killing the engine when you put it into gear?
Actually -- no it doesn't kill the engine at all -- it doesn't do anything. As I said before it functioned fine before I did the cable install-- but because of the stretch it went out of adjustment quickly and the adjustment nuts were at the end of the bolts. Do you think that the actuator would fail immediately upon install?
@@jamesfrank505 So it's behaving as if the clutch plates are not coming together at all. Either an adjustment issue or worn (but you said they were working fine before).
Thanks - I'll keep on playing with the adjustment. I look forward to viewing all your videos.
Great video, by the way i have a problem with my gz250 and it's that it wont change gears. I mean i only can have it in neutral. How it's that possible?
Thanks for watching. There's more than one reason why that may be happening and it is difficult for me to diagnose from my armchair here. Does the engine run? Do you have a paddock stand for the rear swingarm? If so, will it shift into other gears while running with the rear wheel off the ground (no clutch necessary under these conditions)? Could be worn or broken shift fork inside transmission. Could be other transmission shift linkage though too. Again, hard for me to tell here.
Wy didet you try the clutch wen you had loosen off the Springs?
Im curious. Did you ever figure out what the issue or fix was?
@@megazord666 These GSs are a bit notorious for having sticky clutches upon assembly. They have to be "knocked loose" and they they tend to work just fine unless they're allowed to sit without running for ling periods of time. I just kept dropping it into gear (which killed the engine) until eventually it came unstuck.
Did you turn the outside friction plate to its own basket groove?
Good thought. Yes, all was installed properly. And clutch is working great now. Thanks for watching!
Is there an orientation to the metal clutch plates? Seems to me that one side has a chamfer on it and there's an O or a zero stamped on one side. I assume that means out?
Great question. I know the chamfer you speak of and had the same thought. That said, the SM says nothing about the orientation of the disks. As I recall, I installed mine exactly as you describe, stamp out. These clutches are notoriously sticky at first run after rebuild. I have a video on what I had to do to get it unstuck. Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV thanks for confirming. That's what I went with.
1980 Gs550 clutch wont catch gears ?
You gotta oil that lift 🤣 sounds like a homing missle
Haha! Yes I should. Thanks for watching!
omg u r such a amatuer mechanic i can't even watch this
Did you fix this? What was the issue and how did you finally solve it?
I did. Was sticking plates. It was such a frustrating process that I stopped recording with camera but the short answer is I kept dropping it into gear with the clutch lever pulled in until it became unstuck. Took about 20 tries. Thanks for watching!
@Urban Monk TV
Thanks for reply. I have the same problem, bearings fine, push rod fine, plates fine, new oil, new clutch cable , still stuck.
@@DmitrySerbin It's a really common phenomenon with this particular model of bike. I hear it a lot.
@Urban Monk TV versys 650 2007 probably in the list
You know, I tried your method. Even on 6th gear with 20-25 tries no luck. I'm in 🇺🇦 now, so have no time now to investigate more.
First Time working on these bikes so give me some grace, but is the only way to replace to push rod seal to take that gray cover off? 1978 gs550
You came to the right place for grace. 🙂 Yes, the left side sprocket cover needs to come off to access the clutch pushrod seal. It's quite simple and easily accessed under that cover. 3 small bolts hold it in. Seal is part number 09285-06011. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the reply. It’s looking like I have to remove the gear shift linkage to get to the seal. Unless I’m missing something but I took off the sprocket cover and I can’t seem to get to it.
@@BauerCasey There should be a plate holding it in with three small bolts holding the plate. Part #3 in this diagram www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f569f8700230d8b4c616/clutch-release
guess i am cheap but to save barely used oil i line my oil pan with a trash bag and that keeps the oil debris free and reusable. saves me $.
One way to look at is "being cheap." Another way is to consider that every quart of oil consumed on this planet has an environmental impact (negatively) and to get full use of yours is not necessarily an environmentally friendly thing to do, but it minimizes the negative impact a bit. It's the "reuse" in "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle." And yeah, it saves you some $. Thanks for watching!
So urban monk- was it literally just a new cable that fixed this?
No, the cable was a separate problem. At the end I discussed how I had to drop it into gear 20 times to get the clutch unstuck. Thanks for watching!
Sorry got my wires crossed...I discuss it in my latest video (custom clutch cable and cable maintenance), not this video.
What did you torque the bolts down to?
Sorry for late reply. TH-cam doesn't alert me to new comments very well. Had to hunt to find your question here. Not much on those bolts. Around 5-6 lb.ft.
Urban Monk TV no problem,
drain your oil into a container with a clean plastic bag covering it. Save your oil!
Not a bad idea, though could be messy and how does one dispose of the oil soaked bag in a responsible way?
@@UrbanMonkTV If you are careful you can turn the bag inside out as you take it off your container then I would be happy to dispose of it as I would a oil bottle. I got this idea from a painter decorator who uses it with paint.
grooved fingers
Byt till en annan olja så funkar det👍🏻
Jag bytte olja och det hjälpte. Jag behövde frigöra kopplingen snabbt många gånger för att bryta loss den. Det fungerar bra nu. Tack för att du tittade.
Sjukt, har tittat på alla dina filmer och aödrig fattat att du är svensk tills jag såg denna kommentaren 😅