8:58 if you're stopped at the lights in gear with the clutch pulled in and the engine is running, all the plates are free. If any one friction plate is stuck to the steel this will lock the basket to the drum and the engine will stall (unless all the teeth are missing from the friction plate).
I tried your idea to clamp the clutch lever and it worked like a charm. It was jumping into gear even when the clutch lever was pulled in but after clamping it for 24 hours it worked great. This was on a 1973 Yamaha LT3 100. Thanks for the tip.
You saved me a BUNCH of time and trouble boss!! I had tried everything I could think of to break the frictions and steels loose in the seized clutch on my 90 Shadow VT 1100c. Nothing worked and I had grabbed my Clymer's out in advance of opening everything up. Never occurred to me that the steady pressure applied over a period of time would do the trick. Just happened upon your video by chance and it worked like a charm (and I am running a juice clutch). Amazing! Thanks again for staying up late to shoot this. I owe you one.
You sir, are a genius. Worked like a charm. It was a half a quart low, and sat for 2 months. It took 1 hour. 1964 Honda Dream 305 still running. Thank you!!!
Man what a lifesaver. You talk slow in the video and take your time getting to the point. But the point is worth the wait. Had a bike that sat for 14 years. Clutch was solidly stuck. I'd read of putting ATF fluid in and getting them unstuck. Was planning on that, and assumed I'd have to disassemble the clutch. Topped up the oil, cranked the kickstart a dozen times to circulate the oil. Clamped the clutch lever. 36 hours later, it was releasing though not quite freely. Pumped the kick start a dozen more. 24 hours later, she was free as it should be. Now I can clean the carbs and get this Honda 750 Four back on the road.
Iv just got a zx7r that slips under wide open throttle, it had a new clutch kit and spring kit about 5k mile ago but its been off the road for 5 years stored nicely it runs fine and will go up and down the gearbox but slips when you put it under throttle load, sound like friction plates?
Watched your video after I realized I had a stuck clutch on my 1970 Honda SL 100. Put a clamp on the clutch level and left it overnight. I kicked the motor over a couple of times the next day and after the third try it broke loose and now works fine. After seven years your advise is still applicable. Many Thanks!!!!
Rate this advice 100%. My 1938 matchless g80 was sitting with no oil in the primary case for a year. Clamped the clutch lever filled the primary with oil and left it over night. Within 10 kicks it broke free.
This trick has just worked for me too! Left clutch lever pulled back to the grips with a couple of bicycle inner tube elastic bands wrapped round for 48 hrs, clutch was still seized when I tried to kick it over in gear with back wheel on ground. Started engine in 1st gear and ran on centre stand with wheel spinning at about 3000 engine RPM and jabbed the back brake, hey presto! The back stopped and the engine continued spinning - clutch now works perfectly. Great trick!
DUDE!!!! My son broke the clutch cable on my wolf classic 150, which is basically a Honda CB 150 . Replaces the cable. The clutch wouldn’t work . Was stuck in gear. 8 months later I’m about to fork out cash to fix this and I see your Video.. we up and running!!! Soooo stoked . 100,000,000 thank you.
Thank you sir! Tried your method and my bike after sitting 8 years had a stuck clutch....only took overnight with the clutch lever clamped in, the next morning rocking it back and forth I heard a pop and knew I fixed it....put 20 miles on it today and it's working great! Thank you!
Just saw this yesterday, clamped the clutch lever in on my Triumph Thunderbird, left it overnight and 'it worked' clutch operating fine now, many thanks for this information 🙂
I have not rode my bike for 4 weeks at first I tipped it over and I assume I flooded it? Whatever it was I couldn't get it to start. After letting it sit and just charging the battery and waiting two weeks for a little bit warmer weather it finally started. I WAS SO EXCITED. Finally I could ride right? NOPE the clutch was stuck but I had no idea. I was driving myself mad playing around with the carb, air filter, spark plug, and battery. The bike would start up fine but then it would lurch forward and die when put into gear even with the clutch pressed all the way in. It was such a tease the weather was so nice I couldn't enjoy it. Literally losing sleep because it is a brand new bike and I couldn't use it. I was thinking worst case scenarios as far as ways to fix it. Then I tried your trick and it worked like a charm. Not only did you showing what to do but explaining the HOW and WHY with your spare parts was also key. I left my vice grips on for maybe 30 seconds and I could literally hear the springs in the clutch releasing like one of those door stoppers. Right away I knew that was it. I didn't want to get ahead of myself so I just let it sit over night. Today after a whole fucking month I rode my bike again. I can't thank you enough. All from a simple video you helped some random stranger make their life a little better :)
Thanks so much for taking the trouble to post this! My 400/4 and TL125's clutches were well and truly stuck - you've saved me a lot of time, trouble and oil as this trick freed them both within a couple of days
Thanks so much for this video. My Kawasaki 1600 Nomad sat for two years due to illness. I am ready to ride again. and couldn’t figure out what happened. I would put in gear and it lurched forward. New oil and a clamp on the clutch lever for two days. Ran it twice till warm and then tried the clutch. I ran it down my driveway and it felt like it use to and worked great. Thanks for the heads up.
Vmax hasn't ran for 5 years. Warmed engine up, changed oil, warmed up again, pulled in the clutch and put in gear - it lurched forward and died.. Several times. Clamps on clutch. 24hrs later, warmed it up and tried it again.. Works fine! Thank you! Great tip! 🙂
the problem you addressing is very important, i bought an old bike and i had exactly same issue i started solving by tightening clutch wire, but still bike kicks and shuts off when put in gear with clutch, so i had to leave it for 5 min in neutral then is soften up and while riding bike gear were so hard like you are doing without pressing clutch. so then i opened the clutch box and guess what, the additives you put in oil thinking it will clean the engine ends up jamming the clutch plates, the oil sludge was all over plates and were acting like a glue, i found clutch basket had teeths aswell causing this issue you are having. so i solved this issue and still working fine.
Thank you sir. I did know that if I was overwintering my bike (Ducati 750SS) I should have put on a bungee cord on the clutch to pull it, but I didn't bother and left it sitting 10 years (Kids) and now I have this problem. Good to know there is a potentially easy fix to start with. Will pull the sparkplugs and push around in gear for a while to circulate the oil to see if this works. Thanks for the helpful video.
That’s an excellent idea! I’m dealing with that on a CR250 we just rebuilt, and are having this problem. I’ll let you know the results. Thanks for a clever, elegant idea!
My girlfriend’s cousin gave me a 1978 Honda XL100 that had been sitting for over 6 years. I cleaned the gas tank, lines and carburetor. One front fork was bone dry and collapsed all the way. The other still worked a bit but the tranny fluid had gone bad and think. I refurbished them because I couldn’t find affordable parts. Half the spokes were broken. So I got that fixed. Finally after all that I had a chance to take her up and down the street. I let her idle for 10 minutes and she went into first fine enough. Going to second and third was really rough and so I was too scared to put her in fourth. She hated when I kicked her down gears and in first she was so rough. I would stick my foot out to turn and she would stall. Not she is stuck in gear and can’t get her back into neutral. I will try this method. Hope it works.
Hi Daniel, wish you the best with it! I love hearing about those classic Honda being rescued. Curious about how much clutch action you feel on the lever. Sometimes the cable after sitting a while will stretch like mad in the first couple hours put back to use. You probably know already that engine off and not touching the clutch at all, rocking the bike forward and backward should allow to shift through all gears relatively smoothly. If there's considerable resistance doing that, I would continue to do in hope gears start shifting smoother. It may be a case of some buildup of crud around the shift drum and manual shifting a bunch frees up the works. Also, how does the shift lever look too? If it's slipping on the spline, that will make catching gears near impossible 🧘♂️. Just a couple little things to hopefully help 🙏 Cheers
Quick way - front wheel against a wall - start engine put it in gear… drop the clutch! Plates should break free. Alternatively you can ride along in 2nd then apply rear brake whilst clutch is pulled in keep repeating until it frees up the plates
Iv just got a zx7r that's been off the road stored nicely for 5 years so nothings seized the brakes etc but the clutch is slipping under wide open throttle - in 2013 a couple years before it came off the road it had a new clutch and spring kit itl go into gear and pull away fine etc but under wide open throttle as you go up the rev range it slips - could this be a couple of stuck friction plates?
@@s1dew1nd3r4 yeah most likely bud.. either that or lack of oil between the plates from sitting is common too... You can if its not your daily bike.. tie some string/wire around the clutch so its engaged and slowly it allows oil to penetrate between the plates. Can take 1-2 days tho. Or you can try the above mate ride along at low speed say 20-30 brake hard with the rear whilst holding the clutch in repeat a few times the vibration through the clutch helps free up and stuck plates. Only other cause of slipping clutch is wore out friction plates.. and using the wrong oil like semi - fully synthetic which im sure you arent doing that anyways
I definitely appreciate the advice. I'll give you some advice even though you didn't ask. You have a wonderful presentation of facts to get the clutch free, however stay within at least 3 minutes and don't make a 10-minute video out of it. Again thanks for the advice you seem like a clever guy
If you have an electric start just try start it in gear let the bike roll as soon as you get it started clutch in stop tilt the bike over to the clutch side while running in gear clutched in. Engage and disengage clutch just enough so it creeps forward it should get unstuck.
Just tried this on my 87 can am ase 500 that’s been sitting for years couple good kicks with but in gear and let it sit for half a day and it worked!!!!!!
I have a 72 honda cl100. Bike confused me a bit cause everything I searched to match the bike for its year was a bit off and it took a minute for me to figure out that the bike is actually a spot on depiction of a 71 cl100. Not to big of a deal unless you're looling for exterior parts like side panels like me. I'm having new ones custom made since i dont have them or my headlight. Bike as been sitting for longer than ive been alive. My dad acquired it somewhere in the late late 90s possibly 2000 maybe 2001. He gave it to me when i was about 10 and i was born in 2003. The bike was acquired from my uncle's scrap pile and its been sitting for at least 20 years. I tinkered with it here and there but couldn't afford parts in middle school. I managed to get a set of honda oem points with a condensor and replaced them which made the bike run. I replaced the rear tire in freshman year of highschool and then deflated the tire and parked in the shed. I later got my hands on a fuel tank off a bike that was the same year but its was a cb125. Still fits the frame perfectly but its not original to that bike however I like the emblems better since they have the Honda wing on them and they're actual pot metal. Not plastic or stickers or some dumb shit. I ended up finding the original tank and ordered the mounts for it, i bought front fork seals to rebuild the forks. I got lucky and found a bias ply tire for it which is odd cause bias ply isn't widely available and neither are 2.50x18 size tires in general. I ordered a tube but the company sent the wrong one. I was very impatient and found a 3.50×18 and just sent her anyways. Now i just need to fix my clutch since its frozen from sitting so long. She's almost ready. I'm trying to get her going cause im tired of seeing it sit, and my buddy just got his 110 three wheeler goin and we're planning on taking the bikes on some trails around our area and up on the Indian reservation where he's from. Maybe later this afternoon ill have her moving
Thank you for the vid. Fixed my exact problem on my 81 kz1000. I was about to crack into the clutch but the vice on the clutch lever fixed in in a matter of 15min. 👍
+Brotherd Mike thanks for the positive feedback. One of my earlier bikes, many years ago, was a TS... It was a 1978 or 79 and 125cc if I recall correctly. No powerband but still stayed beside my buddy on his XR 100. Heck, many times he couldn't keep up which would irritate him because his bike was brand new. I still love the old air cooled two stroke and presently ride a 1983 Suzuki PE 175 for enduro events. Hope your clutch unsticks😀. Cheers
Anthony Holdway, in the end, I couldn't unstick my clutch with the trick in this video. But it was a painless job to drain the gearbox oil, remove the clutch cover/casing and separate the plates manually. My friction plates had dried out and fused to the steel plates.
Brotherd Mike luckily they aren't to expensive to replace. I dumped my oil and checked the plates the oil was really old n dirty. I can separate each plate it just feels like theres wet glue in between them so hopefully a oil change and a short run will clean it up
Thanks for the great tip. 66 Triumph Bonneville clutch plates were stuck together tight. Talked to a few very experienced motorcycle mechanics and they all said I`d have to pull the primary cover, a lot of work. Your video solved my problem in 3 days.
Thanks for putting this information out there! Im gonna try this on my cagiva mito since always when i put it into gear it likes to stall out even with the clutch lever pulled.
7 1\2 mins before... "Hey, just hold the handle down a while and add oil..." I swear this guy is from a sienfeld episode. "Jerry! Yeah, I couldn't keep going out with them... ... They were a slow talker! A slow talker, Jerry!"
Just bought an old bike motor was seized. Used on blaster to free it .clutch is frozen but I cant pull the lever so I'm guessing this technique wont work in my situation. Thanks for sharing this
common knowledge to some sometimes is new knowledge to some xD thank you for that. now i finally know why the clutch in my honda does not work anymore.
Thank you so much for watching and your comment. I would actually recommend if you can to wait a day or two before you plan to use your scorpa and do the lever then. I've discovered that long term takes the tensile strength from the springs and clutch starts slipping 😑. Cheers
same problem on yz125 2011 twice, doing all this this time, cba to change it again, clutch is like new, bike is bullshi7ing me, should work, i thought about booting it round with the clutch in and heating it up, came looking for this basically, thanks man, if it works i will be back,
I just bought a 1981 yamaha seca 550 for 65 bucks. I cleaned the carbs and it fired up and runs great.. It had been sitting for 3 or more years. So the clutch is stuck and i really just want to ride it lol
Well, tried the clamp trick on a 2000 Vulcan 800. Couldn't get it to roll with clutch lever pulled. Let it sit overnight. Next day, its working like it should. Thanks
Few cable ties on the clutch lever 24hrs, then rode it for about 20mins with ties still attached, bingo, clutch let go, cut the cable ties off, (make sure to carry a blade on the ride to cut the ties mid ride) ride home.normally, all fixed, put the ties back on for a while get some lube in-between them haha, not a single bolt turned for this fix, boom.
Good idea ive got a new gn and after a couple of days rest when it starts and goes into first it kicks as the clutch plates separate so ive tied the clutch lever back, to see what happens
Long story short, because he doesn’t make it short… put a clamp on the clutch lever and handle bar so the clutch is engaged. Let that sit for a few days.
I think im on the other side of the problem i thinke my clutch is slipping. Took it apart and cleaned it with w d 40. Got a little bit better. But someone told me to scrape the pads on a cement floor sort sanding it to get the glaze off. Heard of that?
Hi harrygrimley, I've roughed up dirt bike brake shoes to increase performance. Usually do it on my vintage bikes just before race day, use an 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. Clutch is bathed in oil though so any that I get in my shop with slipping trouble, first thing I suspect is springs. A service manual should give you specs on spring length. Tensile strength of each spring is hard to measure. Manual also for friction and steel plate thickness. If plates are worn bad usually that shows up in the cable - cable will seem stretched... and even if you put new one it would be adjusted oddly out more than it should as the clutch pack is not filling intended space. I'm certainly no clutch expert, never tried roughing friction plates either. My thoughts on that... probably would help for a short period. High gloss on friction plates I would think means they slipped a good bit and the intense friction caused overheating, baked them to a gloss. If anything, I'd lay a sheet of 1000... maybe 800 grit on a pane of glass and give plates a quick scuff. My focus is still on the springs though. Also, some makes, models specify only conventional oil, mineral oil, transmission fluid, etc. More to the point, if the transmission fluid spec doesn't call for synthetic oil, putting that in definitely can give you slip. Best regards 🧘♂️
My 2009 Honda Rebel 250 had only been sitting for about two weeks when the clutch stuck. I rocked it back and forth while in gear and the clutch released. A week later, it was stuck again. I’m trying your method now and will check it in one and two days. If it doesn’t release, would a complete oil change with Honda brand oil be worth trying? I’ve been riding since 1967 and have never had a clutch stick although most of my bikes are started and ridden every two weeks. I’ll let you know.
Hi Jeffrey, wonderful fun bike the 250 Rebel! Yes, plates stuck as often as your experiencing, for the minimal extra cost I'd just switch out to Honda brand oil -H4 I think they call it- as a process of elimination. If you can, run the engine up to operating temperature before drain and have a close look at that oil. Hoping it's not milky but if so you got water/condensation and possibly the exposed steel plates developed some rust. Fresh Honda oil and a ride probably will sort it 🙏
Thanks mate.. I have been struggling with my bike clutch and gears and due to lockdown i was not able to find any mechanic support. I too got my gears stick together i think cz i dint used it during the lockdown period. Hope your idea would work fir me. Thanks
Would a chain locking up the rear wheel cause a certain gear to stick? My chain failed and locked up the rear wheel and I tried to restart but it’d die (thought it hydrolocked from gas spilling into the air box a few days earlier) well after finding out the chains the issue I replaced that and proceeded to test drive only able to get it to 2nd gear 3rd refused to move and then gas was spilling into the engine causing oil and gas to leak from the air box. I tore it down and nothing looks bad no metal shavings or anything but bikes still refuses to go past 2nd
Hi will riseabove, what year, make and model bike have you got? Really sounds like possible bent shift fork...doesn't take much of a bend to jam up the works. I've had the same thing- chain fail rear wheel lock up- happen to me many years ago. I was on a Yamaha 400 maxim. Nearly killed me, never hurt the bike a bit lol. A compilation of troubles are hard to juggle and sort right. Hope you can get fuel under control🙏. Without actually inspecting all transmission bits, my bet is shift forks and/or the shaft they travel on. Take a very close look at the grooves in the shift drum for any sign of damage. Best regards.
Yes, would work very same way. So, presumably if your bike is in gear, clutch in, push start button and the bike is rolling forward lurching with the spin of starter motor, yes? Give it two days clutch tied in, then start in neutral, idling in neutral pull clutch in (if it isn't already) and put it into first gear. Prepare for it to lurch~or rather jump forward on you. Try this a few times~ if it doesn't break free, let sit one more night clutch pulled in and try again. Cheers
@@shopyoga Thank you so much. I have the clutch lever held down with a zip tie. I also ran the engine in neutral to warm up the oil and then left it leaned over to the right a bit to bring up the oil level on that side and drown the clutch plates in the hot oil… Is this a good idea? I’ll let it sit like this for a day or two, and then try starting it in neutral and then putting it into first gear as you advised.
I just got a zx7r that's been laid up for 5 years but moved about periodically and ran upto temp but not really been ridden anywhere. It had a new clutch kit and spring kit in 2013 so in like the last 5k miles but was then off the road from 2016 - now the bike fires up and runs fine and I can ride it and go up and down the gearbox but when you put it under wide open throttle the clutch is slipping as it goes up the rev range, would that be sticking friction plates? As the clutch itself is still actually fairly new.
Hi, that actually sounds like the engine is overpowering the clutch and the clutch is slipping periodically. Same thing happens on my 1400 intruder and I just ease off throttle a moment and she hooks up again. I believe springs should be replaced, or upgraded to get that plate pressure back👍
What if the bike has a hydraulic system to operate the clutch? Is it still safe to keep the lever pressed in over an extended period of time, or could that cause issues?
No difference in the theory behind the attempt to free up the plates. Only change is now you are relying on hydraulic to maintain pressure, so if a few days or a week pass and you still have pressure when you release the handle (feels same as day one), that's a tight system. You may develop a dead spot that goes away with a few full pumps of the lever, or it could turn completely flat and have to bleed line to get it back. Either way, any loss in pressure (clutch action) indicates a leak... more loss= bigger leak.
My actuator arm doesn't engage anything so clamping it would be pointless. Any guesses why? It worked fine u til the cable broke amd we replaced it. Not The bike won't roll in gear with the actuator arm all the way forward (the way its supposed to bE to shift).
Legend! I was slightly sceptical but on the second day she came free on a bike that has been sitting non started for over ten years. Thanks
8:58 if you're stopped at the lights in gear with the clutch pulled in and the engine is running, all the plates are free. If any one friction plate is stuck to the steel this will lock the basket to the drum and the engine will stall (unless all the teeth are missing from the friction plate).
I tried your idea to clamp the clutch lever and it worked like a charm. It was jumping into gear even when the clutch lever was pulled in but after clamping it for 24 hours it worked great. This was on a 1973 Yamaha LT3 100. Thanks for the tip.
Spit it out, man.
Lmao! Pretty funny! I hear ya!
But give the brother credit. He does a thorough description!
I like to speed up the videos sometimes. It’s pretty handy.
Oh my freaking god!!! Yeah!!!
Great suggestion, and personally I find his tone and cadence very relaxing
You saved me a BUNCH of time and trouble boss!! I had tried everything I could think of to break the frictions and steels loose in the seized clutch on my 90 Shadow VT 1100c. Nothing worked and I had grabbed my Clymer's out in advance of opening everything up. Never occurred to me that the steady pressure applied over a period of time would do the trick. Just happened upon your video by chance and it worked like a charm (and I am running a juice clutch). Amazing! Thanks again for staying up late to shoot this. I owe you one.
And thank you Lawrence for such kind feedback. Those words are worth a million bucks to me Sir 🙏🧘♂️
@@shopyoga you rightly deserve them boss 👏🤟
You sir, are a genius. Worked like a charm. It was a half a quart low, and sat for 2 months. It took 1 hour. 1964 Honda Dream 305 still running. Thank you!!!
Superb! Glad it worked out for you. I actually have a 1964 Honda 305 Dream I'm restoring.
Man what a lifesaver. You talk slow in the video and take your time getting to the point. But the point is worth the wait. Had a bike that sat for 14 years. Clutch was solidly stuck. I'd read of putting ATF fluid in and getting them unstuck. Was planning on that, and assumed I'd have to disassemble the clutch.
Topped up the oil, cranked the kickstart a dozen times to circulate the oil. Clamped the clutch lever. 36 hours later, it was releasing though not quite freely. Pumped the kick start a dozen more. 24 hours later, she was free as it should be. Now I can clean the carbs and get this Honda 750 Four back on the road.
Iv just got a zx7r that slips under wide open throttle, it had a new clutch kit and spring kit about 5k mile ago but its been off the road for 5 years stored nicely it runs fine and will go up and down the gearbox but slips when you put it under throttle load, sound like friction plates?
Watched your video after I realized I had a stuck clutch on my 1970 Honda SL 100. Put a clamp on the clutch level and left it overnight. I kicked the motor over a couple of times the next day and after the third try it broke loose and now works fine. After seven years your advise is still applicable. Many Thanks!!!!
Rate this advice 100%. My 1938 matchless g80 was sitting with no oil in the primary case for a year. Clamped the clutch lever filled the primary with oil and left it over night. Within 10 kicks it broke free.
This trick has just worked for me too! Left clutch lever pulled back to the grips with a couple of bicycle inner tube elastic bands wrapped round for 48 hrs, clutch was still seized when I tried to kick it over in gear with back wheel on ground. Started engine in 1st gear and ran on centre stand with wheel spinning at about 3000 engine RPM and jabbed the back brake, hey presto! The back stopped and the engine continued spinning - clutch now works perfectly. Great trick!
Ignore the negative people, this video was perfect and i cant wait to try it out tomorrow!! Works now!!!!!
DUDE!!!! My son broke the clutch cable on my wolf classic 150, which is basically a Honda CB 150 . Replaces the cable. The clutch wouldn’t work . Was stuck in gear. 8 months later I’m about to fork out cash to fix this and I see your Video.. we up and running!!! Soooo stoked . 100,000,000 thank you.
Thank you sir! Tried your method and my bike after sitting 8 years had a stuck clutch....only took overnight with the clutch lever clamped in, the next morning rocking it back and forth I heard a pop and knew I fixed it....put 20 miles on it today and it's working great! Thank you!
Wonderful glad you found joy🤟🤟and thank you so much for the appreciations!🧘♂️
Too long to listen? Check oil level, clamp clutch back to let oil get back in between clutch plates
Thanks I was about to give up too slow
Just saw this yesterday, clamped the clutch lever in on my Triumph Thunderbird, left it overnight and 'it worked' clutch operating fine now, many thanks for this information 🙂
I have not rode my bike for 4 weeks at first I tipped it over and I assume I flooded it? Whatever it was I couldn't get it to start. After letting it sit and just charging the battery and waiting two weeks for a little bit warmer weather it finally started. I WAS SO EXCITED. Finally I could ride right? NOPE the clutch was stuck but I had no idea. I was driving myself mad playing around with the carb, air filter, spark plug, and battery. The bike would start up fine but then it would lurch forward and die when put into gear even with the clutch pressed all the way in. It was such a tease the weather was so nice I couldn't enjoy it. Literally losing sleep because it is a brand new bike and I couldn't use it. I was thinking worst case scenarios as far as ways to fix it. Then I tried your trick and it worked like a charm. Not only did you showing what to do but explaining the HOW and WHY with your spare parts was also key. I left my vice grips on for maybe 30 seconds and I could literally hear the springs in the clutch releasing like one of those door stoppers. Right away I knew that was it. I didn't want to get ahead of myself so I just let it sit over night. Today after a whole fucking month I rode my bike again. I can't thank you enough. All from a simple video you helped some random stranger make their life a little better :)
Thanks so much for taking the trouble to post this! My 400/4 and TL125's clutches were well and truly stuck - you've saved me a lot of time, trouble and oil as this trick freed them both within a couple of days
Thanks so much for this video. My Kawasaki 1600 Nomad sat for two years due to illness. I am ready to ride again. and couldn’t figure out what happened. I would put in gear and it lurched forward. New oil and a clamp on the clutch lever for two days. Ran it twice till warm and then tried the clutch. I ran it down my driveway and it felt like it use to and worked great. Thanks for the heads up.
Vmax hasn't ran for 5 years. Warmed engine up, changed oil, warmed up again, pulled in the clutch and put in gear - it lurched forward and died.. Several times. Clamps on clutch. 24hrs later, warmed it up and tried it again.. Works fine! Thank you! Great tip! 🙂
Thank you so much. I really appreciated the explanation behind the mechanics of how it works.
Good advice man! God bless you! My gs400 clutch unseized in only 24h after sitting for at least 3 years.
Thank you so much for your time and appreciations. Take care and safe Suzuki riding 🤩
Was it seized solid?
@@s1dew1nd3r4 yes sir
Fantastic tip, worked after half an hour on my 86 XL 125. Genius.
the problem you addressing is very important, i bought an old bike and i had exactly same issue i started solving by tightening clutch wire, but still bike kicks and shuts off when put in gear with clutch, so i had to leave it for 5 min in neutral then is soften up and while riding bike gear were so hard like you are doing without pressing clutch.
so then i opened the clutch box and guess what, the additives you put in oil thinking it will clean the engine ends up jamming the clutch plates, the oil sludge was all over plates and were acting like a glue, i found clutch basket had teeths aswell causing this issue you are having. so i solved this issue and still working fine.
Thank you sir. I did know that if I was overwintering my bike (Ducati 750SS) I should have put on a bungee cord on the clutch to pull it, but I didn't bother and left it sitting 10 years (Kids) and now I have this problem. Good to know there is a potentially easy fix to start with. Will pull the sparkplugs and push around in gear for a while to circulate the oil to see if this works. Thanks for the helpful video.
Thank you man. Didn’t necessarily Use same technique but I did use your knowledge from this video. Once again much appreciated 🙏🙏
That’s an excellent idea! I’m dealing with that on a CR250 we just rebuilt, and are having this problem. I’ll let you know the results.
Thanks for a clever, elegant idea!
I just got done rebuilding a cr250 as well and am trying this tonight too, hopefully it works!
Dude, this trick totally worked for me. Thanks for savings me time and effort.
Although it took almost 8 min. to get to the solution, the "pre" solution was interesting and well done. We'll try it and see if it works for me.
going to give this a try. A cable tie is what I'm using
My girlfriend’s cousin gave me a 1978 Honda XL100 that had been sitting for over 6 years. I cleaned the gas tank, lines and carburetor. One front fork was bone dry and collapsed all the way. The other still worked a bit but the tranny fluid had gone bad and think. I refurbished them because I couldn’t find affordable parts. Half the spokes were broken. So I got that fixed. Finally after all that I had a chance to take her up and down the street. I let her idle for 10 minutes and she went into first fine enough. Going to second and third was really rough and so I was too scared to put her in fourth. She hated when I kicked her down gears and in first she was so rough. I would stick my foot out to turn and she would stall. Not she is stuck in gear and can’t get her back into neutral. I will try this method. Hope it works.
Hi Daniel, wish you the best with it! I love hearing about those classic Honda being rescued. Curious about how much clutch action you feel on the lever. Sometimes the cable after sitting a while will stretch like mad in the first couple hours put back to use.
You probably know already that engine off and not touching the clutch at all, rocking the bike forward and backward should allow to shift through all gears relatively smoothly. If there's considerable resistance doing that, I would continue to do in hope gears start shifting smoother. It may be a case of some buildup of crud around the shift drum and manual shifting a bunch frees up the works. Also, how does the shift lever look too? If it's slipping on the spline, that will make catching gears near impossible 🧘♂️. Just a couple little things to hopefully help 🙏 Cheers
The anticipation was killing me. Took awhile to finally say how to break it free. But it was a good video.
Quick way - front wheel against a wall - start engine put it in gear… drop the clutch! Plates should break free.
Alternatively you can ride along in 2nd then apply rear brake whilst clutch is pulled in keep repeating until it frees up the plates
Iv just got a zx7r that's been off the road stored nicely for 5 years so nothings seized the brakes etc but the clutch is slipping under wide open throttle - in 2013 a couple years before it came off the road it had a new clutch and spring kit itl go into gear and pull away fine etc but under wide open throttle as you go up the rev range it slips - could this be a couple of stuck friction plates?
@@s1dew1nd3r4 yeah most likely bud.. either that or lack of oil between the plates from sitting is common too...
You can if its not your daily bike.. tie some string/wire around the clutch so its engaged and slowly it allows oil to penetrate between the plates. Can take 1-2 days tho.
Or you can try the above mate ride along at low speed say 20-30 brake hard with the rear whilst holding the clutch in repeat a few times the vibration through the clutch helps free up and stuck plates.
Only other cause of slipping clutch is wore out friction plates.. and using the wrong oil like semi - fully synthetic which im sure you arent doing that anyways
This was a brilliant bit of information and worked a treat ! Thank you so much for your video👍
I definitely appreciate the advice. I'll give you some advice even though you didn't ask. You have a wonderful presentation of facts to get the clutch free, however stay within at least 3 minutes and don't make a 10-minute video out of it. Again thanks for the advice you seem like a clever guy
No shit he was killing me
If you have an electric start just try start it in gear let the bike roll as soon as you get it started clutch in stop tilt the bike over to the clutch side while running in gear clutched in. Engage and disengage clutch just enough so it creeps forward it should get unstuck.
I'm going to be trying this on a CBR600. Im picking up soon! Clutches are sticking, so hopefully, this fixes it, and I can ride it home!
Just tried this on my 87 can am ase 500 that’s been sitting for years couple good kicks with but in gear and let it sit for half a day and it worked!!!!!!
Wonderful!!!!! Glad to hear this!
Good idea! Although I think this might cause the clutch springs to relax being clamped that long keep in mind.
I had a similar sticky clutch situation. Freeplay adjustment (to the tighter side) solved the problem.
I have a 72 honda cl100. Bike confused me a bit cause everything I searched to match the bike for its year was a bit off and it took a minute for me to figure out that the bike is actually a spot on depiction of a 71 cl100. Not to big of a deal unless you're looling for exterior parts like side panels like me. I'm having new ones custom made since i dont have them or my headlight. Bike as been sitting for longer than ive been alive. My dad acquired it somewhere in the late late 90s possibly 2000 maybe 2001. He gave it to me when i was about 10 and i was born in 2003. The bike was acquired from my uncle's scrap pile and its been sitting for at least 20 years. I tinkered with it here and there but couldn't afford parts in middle school. I managed to get a set of honda oem points with a condensor and replaced them which made the bike run. I replaced the rear tire in freshman year of highschool and then deflated the tire and parked in the shed. I later got my hands on a fuel tank off a bike that was the same year but its was a cb125. Still fits the frame perfectly but its not original to that bike however I like the emblems better since they have the Honda wing on them and they're actual pot metal. Not plastic or stickers or some dumb shit. I ended up finding the original tank and ordered the mounts for it, i bought front fork seals to rebuild the forks. I got lucky and found a bias ply tire for it which is odd cause bias ply isn't widely available and neither are 2.50x18 size tires in general. I ordered a tube but the company sent the wrong one. I was very impatient and found a 3.50×18 and just sent her anyways. Now i just need to fix my clutch since its frozen from sitting so long. She's almost ready. I'm trying to get her going cause im tired of seeing it sit, and my buddy just got his 110 three wheeler goin and we're planning on taking the bikes on some trails around our area and up on the Indian reservation where he's from. Maybe later this afternoon ill have her moving
Thank you for the vid. Fixed my exact problem on my 81 kz1000. I was about to crack into the clutch but the vice on the clutch lever fixed in in a matter of 15min. 👍
Thanks for your feedback! Love to hear success!
Fantastic advice, trying to unstuck a Suzi TS185 clutch and I think this is the ticket. Cheers
+Brotherd Mike thanks for the positive feedback. One of my earlier bikes, many years ago, was a TS... It was a 1978 or 79 and 125cc if I recall correctly. No powerband but still stayed beside my buddy on his XR 100. Heck, many times he couldn't keep up which would irritate him because his bike was brand new. I still love the old air cooled two stroke and presently ride a 1983 Suzuki PE 175 for enduro events. Hope your clutch unsticks😀. Cheers
Haha i am here because my 74 ts185 (first ever bike, i bought two days ago) has a sticky clutch
Anthony Holdway, in the end, I couldn't unstick my clutch with the trick in this video. But it was a painless job to drain the gearbox oil, remove the clutch cover/casing and separate the plates manually. My friction plates had dried out and fused to the steel plates.
Brotherd Mike luckily they aren't to expensive to replace. I dumped my oil and checked the plates the oil was really old n dirty. I can separate each plate it just feels like theres wet glue in between them so hopefully a oil change and a short run will clean it up
Thanks for the great tip. 66 Triumph Bonneville clutch plates were stuck together tight. Talked to a few very experienced motorcycle mechanics and they all said I`d have to pull the primary cover, a lot of work. Your video solved my problem in 3 days.
Brilliant! worked like charm, thanks mate, saved me a lot of grief.
Really useful information. Worked overnight for me. Thank you.
Thanks for putting this information out there! Im gonna try this on my cagiva mito since always when i put it into gear it likes to stall out even with the clutch lever pulled.
it has already freed up significantly, the engine doesnt turn over anymore when i push it with a gear in. Thanks!!
Fantastic 🤩... thanks for your feedback, Krisu!
worked 100% on my bike thanks dude you're a life saver
Thanks for your feedback 🧘♂️🧘♂️🧘♂️🙂!
My 2003 CBR 600rr sat for two years! now clutch wont release after oil and coolant change. This should be the problem will give it a try. Thanks.
Tried this trick, it works. For everybody complaining about the length of the video, just turn playback speed to 1.5x
Thank you very much. I did a tt600 that was standing quite some time and have this problem.
Appreciate.
At 2:20 I believe those are not worm gear splines. They are helical gear cut.
thanks man was dreading pulling my cover and did the ol Google search, found your bud and it worked! Thanks again!
Bro thx so much just rebuilt an 88 husky and had this broblem exactly thankyou
7 1\2 mins before... "Hey, just hold the handle down a while and add oil..." I swear this guy is from a sienfeld episode. "Jerry! Yeah, I couldn't keep going out with them... ... They were a slow talker! A slow talker, Jerry!"
Just bought an old bike motor was seized. Used on blaster to free it .clutch is frozen but I cant pull the lever so I'm guessing this technique wont work in my situation. Thanks for sharing this
Listening to this dude is brutal
common knowledge to some sometimes is new knowledge to some xD
thank you for that. now i finally know why the clutch in my honda does not work anymore.
Exactly what I was looking for. Going to try
man oh man......it took you 10 minutes to say 1 minute's worth
Thanks, saved me a lot of time was about to pull my bike apart
I'm storing my Scorpa trials bike like this from now on. #genius
Thank you so much for watching and your comment. I would actually recommend if you can to wait a day or two before you plan to use your scorpa and do the lever then. I've discovered that long term takes the tensile strength from the springs and clutch starts slipping 😑. Cheers
Trying this on my kdx 80 right now hope it works thank u
Can someone suggest ONE guy who does a logical flow-chart of what happens or don't and what to do as you eliminate issues. ?
omg this worked on a TTR125 thanks so much!!!!
I will go out and try this right now! thank you!!
Best kind of luck to you 🧘♂️🧘♂️🧘♂️!
Will do this on my 150 tomorrow
Thank you sir!
same problem on yz125 2011 twice, doing all this this time, cba to change it again, clutch is like new, bike is bullshi7ing me, should work, i thought about booting it round with the clutch in and heating it up, came looking for this basically, thanks man, if it works i will be back,
I just bought a 1981 yamaha seca 550 for 65 bucks. I cleaned the carbs and it fired up and runs great.. It had been sitting for 3 or more years. So the clutch is stuck and i really just want to ride it lol
Well, tried the clamp trick on a 2000 Vulcan 800. Couldn't get it to roll with clutch lever pulled. Let it sit overnight. Next day, its working like it should. Thanks
Hey idk if you still have access to this account but did you have oil in the bike
Few cable ties on the clutch lever 24hrs, then rode it for about 20mins with ties still attached, bingo, clutch let go, cut the cable ties off, (make sure to carry a blade on the ride to cut the ties mid ride) ride home.normally, all fixed, put the ties back on for a while get some lube in-between them haha, not a single bolt turned for this fix, boom.
Good idea ive got a new gn and after a couple of days rest when it starts and goes into first it kicks as the clutch plates separate so ive tied the clutch lever back, to see what happens
Long story short, because he doesn’t make it short… put a clamp on the clutch lever and handle bar so the clutch is engaged. Let that sit for a few days.
I think im on the other side of the problem i thinke my clutch is slipping. Took it apart and cleaned it with w d 40. Got a little bit better. But someone told me to scrape the pads on a cement floor sort sanding it to get the glaze off. Heard of that?
Hi harrygrimley, I've roughed up dirt bike brake shoes to increase performance. Usually do it on my vintage bikes just before race day, use an 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. Clutch is bathed in oil though so any that I get in my shop with slipping trouble, first thing I suspect is springs. A service manual should give you specs on spring length. Tensile strength of each spring is hard to measure. Manual also for friction and steel plate thickness. If plates are worn bad usually that shows up in the cable - cable will seem stretched... and even if you put new one it would be adjusted oddly out more than it should as the clutch pack is not filling intended space.
I'm certainly no clutch expert, never tried roughing friction plates either. My thoughts on that... probably would help for a short period. High gloss on friction plates I would think means they slipped a good bit and the intense friction caused overheating, baked them to a gloss. If anything, I'd lay a sheet of 1000... maybe 800 grit on a pane of glass and give plates a quick scuff. My focus is still on the springs though. Also, some makes, models specify only conventional oil, mineral oil, transmission fluid, etc. More to the point, if the transmission fluid spec doesn't call for synthetic oil, putting that in definitely can give you slip. Best regards 🧘♂️
Video starts at 5:20
Sweet thanks hope this works on my new blaster
Thanks for the video but didn't take 10 minutes for you to say the one thing that I need to know
My 2009 Honda Rebel 250 had only been sitting for about two weeks when the clutch stuck. I rocked it back and forth while in gear and the clutch released. A week later, it was stuck again. I’m trying your method now and will check it in one and two days. If it doesn’t release, would a complete oil change with Honda brand oil be worth trying? I’ve been riding since 1967 and have never had a clutch stick although most of my bikes are started and ridden every two weeks. I’ll let you know.
Hi Jeffrey, wonderful fun bike the 250 Rebel! Yes, plates stuck as often as your experiencing, for the minimal extra cost I'd just switch out to Honda brand oil -H4 I think they call it- as a process of elimination. If you can, run the engine up to operating temperature before drain and have a close look at that oil. Hoping it's not milky but if so you got water/condensation and possibly the exposed steel plates developed some rust. Fresh Honda oil and a ride probably will sort it 🙏
Very helpful, thank you for posting.
Thanks mate.. I have been struggling with my bike clutch and gears and due to lockdown i was not able to find any mechanic support. I too got my gears stick together i think cz i dint used it during the lockdown period. Hope your idea would work fir me. Thanks
Did it work??
Awesome presentation. Can’t wait to try it, and thanks for sharing!
Thank you. I will try this.
I use a cable tie on my r1, otherwise it will stick after a few hours!
Those are some wicked strong springs!
What if it is a large street bike say a 1500cc, will the same process work on that?
Hi, yessir same process would apply. Every multi plate oil bathed clutch on the planet I believe would. Best luck with it🙏🧘!
Dudeeeee thank you. Superrrr useful
1927 CB100.. left it sit too long. I’m trying this now.. I’ll report back.. it appears to have the right amount it oil. No leaks really.
It worked! Well… I also put it in 5th gear and rolled it backwards a little to force them loose a little.. so one of the two things worked.
Superb!
I'm gunna try this right now. If it works ill be extremely happy
Did it work?
Thanks man, mine is 28 klms old and stuck.
I have the opposite problem, my clutch won't disengage. so if i have it in gear it won't move at all.
What kind of bike? Hydraulic or cable clutch?
I bet if you had it on a stand with the back wheel off the ground un it slow and slam the rear brake just make sure it does not come off the jack
Would a chain locking up the rear wheel cause a certain gear to stick? My chain failed and locked up the rear wheel and I tried to restart but it’d die (thought it hydrolocked from gas spilling into the air box a few days earlier) well after finding out the chains the issue I replaced that and proceeded to test drive only able to get it to 2nd gear 3rd refused to move and then gas was spilling into the engine causing oil and gas to leak from the air box. I tore it down and nothing looks bad no metal shavings or anything but bikes still refuses to go past 2nd
Hi will riseabove, what year, make and model bike have you got? Really sounds like possible bent shift fork...doesn't take much of a bend to jam up the works. I've had the same thing- chain fail rear wheel lock up- happen to me many years ago. I was on a Yamaha 400 maxim. Nearly killed me, never hurt the bike a bit lol. A compilation of troubles are hard to juggle and sort right. Hope you can get fuel under control🙏. Without actually inspecting all transmission bits, my bet is shift forks and/or the shaft they travel on. Take a very close look at the grooves in the shift drum for any sign of damage. Best regards.
Why is my cutch making a grinding sound?
video starts a 6:50. nothing happens prior
Will this work on a bike and electric starter?
If so, should I try starting it with it in gear to “kick it over” a few times?
Yes, would work very same way. So, presumably if your bike is in gear, clutch in, push start button and the bike is rolling forward lurching with the spin of starter motor, yes? Give it two days clutch tied in, then start in neutral, idling in neutral pull clutch in (if it isn't already) and put it into first gear. Prepare for it to lurch~or rather jump forward on you. Try this a few times~ if it doesn't break free, let sit one more night clutch pulled in and try again. Cheers
Also, in gear or not the moment you electric start spin the engine, the clutch gets an oil bath all the way around.
@@shopyoga Thank you so much. I have the clutch lever held down with a zip tie.
I also ran the engine in neutral to warm up the oil and then left it leaned over to the right a bit to bring up the oil level on that side and drown the clutch plates in the hot oil… Is this a good idea?
I’ll let it sit like this for a day or two, and then try starting it in neutral and then putting it into first gear as you advised.
@nataliamiliano150 yes that's smart! All of what you did puts you at the best advantage.
I just got a zx7r that's been laid up for 5 years but moved about periodically and ran upto temp but not really been ridden anywhere. It had a new clutch kit and spring kit in 2013 so in like the last 5k miles but was then off the road from 2016 - now the bike fires up and runs fine and I can ride it and go up and down the gearbox but when you put it under wide open throttle the clutch is slipping as it goes up the rev range, would that be sticking friction plates? As the clutch itself is still actually fairly new.
Hi, that actually sounds like the engine is overpowering the clutch and the clutch is slipping periodically. Same thing happens on my 1400 intruder and I just ease off throttle a moment and she hooks up again. I believe springs should be replaced, or upgraded to get that plate pressure back👍
What if the bike has a hydraulic system to operate the clutch? Is it still safe to keep the lever pressed in over an extended period of time, or could that cause issues?
No difference in the theory behind the attempt to free up the plates. Only change is now you are relying on hydraulic to maintain pressure, so if a few days or a week pass and you still have pressure when you release the handle (feels same as day one), that's a tight system. You may develop a dead spot that goes away with a few full pumps of the lever, or it could turn completely flat and have to bleed line to get it back. Either way, any loss in pressure (clutch action) indicates a leak... more loss= bigger leak.
My actuator arm doesn't engage anything so clamping it would be pointless. Any guesses why? It worked fine u til the cable broke amd we replaced it. Not The bike won't roll in gear with the actuator arm all the way forward (the way its supposed to bE to shift).
Hi Mr Phillips, what type bike have you got?
Brilliant! This worked like a charm😀
Thank you for making this video!
Do you think that this will work the same way with a Hydraulic clutch?
Yes, I believe so. Only way it wouldn't is if the hydraulic is leaking, bleeding off anywhere.