That's how it is when you work on things. Your concentrating on A then B will come up and bite you in the hiney. I really enjoy your series on this bike.
Thanks for an awesome series! Bought my first bike a couple of months ago to learn motorcycle wrenching. It's a 1982 GS550 M and your videos has helped a lot even though i run the mikuni CV carbs.
Thank you for saying so! There are some distinct advantages to CV carbs over the old mechanical slide carbs, especially for riders who travel in different altitudes. They are more difficult to tune with pod filters though, generally speaking. There are always exceptions to the rule though!
Sir, you are super smart. you have no idea how many mechanics I went to fix my carb issue and specially number 4, it wasnt firing up and they didn't know how to fix my problem. My bike is 1978 suzuki gs750 cafe racer that is in mint condition only needs carb tuning, and I just watched your whole channel videos and sir I gotta say, you are a life saver. got my bike running as new after diagnosing those problems like you mentioned.
When it comes to tuning the idle circuit, all the Suzuki service data for the VM22SS carbs on the GS550 says all the air screws should be set 2 turns out. I decided to do this, to maintain a consistent air flow across all 4, and make the adjustments on the fuel screws only (using Colortune for initial settings, then confirming by inspecting the plugs after a run). This seems to have worked for me.
Wow, I found your videos looking for info about colortune and it looks amazing. After sorting out the problem with the clutch it would be nice to take a look at the sparks after a long ride. Thanks for you videos 👍🏻
Dam man nice ride so I had the same problems you had. I built a 1975 gs550 cafe racer, that was left out in the rain for 20 plus years, the electronic device that didn’t work was the horn. So the spark plug issue I resolved was that the spark plugs I bought new had to much high resistance in them and also the battery was a fiberglass matt autozone POS. So I switched it to a original lead acid cell and actually use the original nippon denso plugs that were on the bike they were nasty rusty looking and putting on the out side but it fixed the spark plug issue you had. For the clutch I rocked the bike back and forth with the clutch in and in neutral and broke free. I also jetted the carbs myself, I used a small jewelers drill bit on a Dremel. After all this and syncing the carbs I was out like a bandit!!! The bike started ASAP all the time. Eventually I sold it.
Hey Monk! we need to see what you are doing from 8:00 to approximately 10:00 to know how you are tuning the engine. Maybe if you had one of those pop in windows of a camera shot of whatever you are doing to the air mixture/idle mixture screw that would be great!
Sorry, in hindsight I have to agree with you. What's done is done now. I'm on to a new project. I was adjusting the idle air mixture screws on the sides of the carbs. Thanks for watching!
Great video UM! I need to invest in one of those Colortune things! Noticied mine very from plug to plug also, that tool would be a huge help! Had the same problem with my clutch sticking! I just rolled started it down a hill n pop the clutch and they broke loose! One other thing, noticed u lack the rear inner fender, gonna get alota sand n debris w/o it, took the factory one n cut it and made it low profile, then painted n cleared it, made a huge diff! Just a thought.
Good idea. Would think it would help to bring the oil up to full operating temperature beforehand too. As for the rear fender piece, Agree...I want to show this bike at a couple bike shows first. Like it open for aesthetic. Then I'll ride it more. I kept that inner rear fender piece, so have it for that day. Thanks for watching!
Great working!!!!! I just bought 1979 Suzuki gs750 and I know nothing about it😅; Your videos are very helpful. I will be using your videos to fix my issues. Yesterday my #3 cylinder was not firing but today My #4 cylinder isn’t firing right; by checking the exhaust to make sure as you did. I don’t know what is my next move from here but I just ordered the carb synchronizer and the color-tune.... Throughout this process I’m trying to 1-Learn 2- don’t spend a lot of money: maybe hard to do since must have tools 3- enjoy the process
Thank you for watching! Your plan is perfect. Also, 1. Fuel/air 2. Compression 3. Spark 4. Timing. It'll have no choice but to run. Enjoy your project. These are very fun machines.
That colour-tune is apretty cool tip👍, and thanks for showing what to look and listen for. Hope the clutch doesnt give you to much problems, time to ride🤘
Thanks for watching! I don't expect the clutch to be too much trouble. There are no parts of the clutch system that are a mystery, so eventually I'll have it working - like all things. Blessing really - I was sort of dreading the end of this project. Too much fun.
Sound’s sweet, also have the gs550; had the same pods but couldn’tget it run right so put back to original filter. In the end with the pods testing i’ve stopped with main jets of size 110, and still lean. I enjoy your video’s, keep up sharing 😏 Kind regards from Belgium.
Uh oh! You just made me think of my rebuilt engine for my 77' 550GS having the same problem after I get done with everything else. Mine hasn't had any oil in it either for 10-15 years. Nooooo. I did fog it inside with sea foam before storing it though. Maybe I'll get lucky and not have the same problem (doubt it though). Great video as usual, haven't missed a single one since you started the rebuild. Subscribed, and am not subscribed to very many channels. Awesome job.
Oh man...getting to be a long time ago. As I recall I did clean Carb 2 a second time, but I don't recall disassembling the carb bank again. Pretty sure I just hit the passages with some extra carb cleaner. Bike ran better and better each time I rode it in the days following.
My 1969 CB750 clutch sticks every time it sits for more than 6 months. I simply leave the bike in neutral, jog with it and hop on. Once in gear I'll throttle her up while holding the clutch in. The clutch will free up within 200 feet.
Hi terrific videos. I have a 1981 gs 550 in the uk. Been off road for 3 years bought as a non runner. Got running on tick over and sounds great but as soon as she is put under load ie gear engaged and throttle opened she stalls. Any ideas what to check. New petrol tap and carbs cleaned. Thanks
Thanks for watching! You mentioned new petrol tap. So you're sure all four cylinders are running? Are all four carb floats adjusted to the correct height and all carb float needle valves working properly? All four exhaust pipes getting hot at idle? How about when you run it in neutral at 2500 rpm or more - all four pipes equally hot then? The symptoms you describe make me question whether all the jets and fuel circuits are clear, but it could be a number of things. An infrared thermometer is cheap and handy for checking this. Hope this helps. Feel free to circle back if you have additional insights or questions.
That's surprising that all the air screws are at different settings to obtain that blue color. I would have assumed if you get one set right, the rest will be close to that.
Perhaps in a perfect world, but we're dealing with 40 uear old machinery that has sat idle for years and the passageways inside each of my carbs may still differ slightly in terms of cleanliness. Can't see inside the bodies.
I'd say burning a hole in the piston is a timing issue if it's running lean after quarter throttle lift the needle in the main jet take the plugs out they should be light tan in colour
I use the ColorTune on my 77 GS750 the GS bikes are great. Not sure if you did this or not but I'd go up at least 1 on the main jets and raise the needles 1 ring. If you're interested check out The GS Resources forums and there is a GS Owners group on Facebook will really help you out.
@mike brink The reason people say they don't run right with pods is because they don't know what they are doing. I've been working on these bikes since the 80s both using a Dyno and not using one. First off don't buy cheap pods they don't all flow the same and you will be chasing your tail. Spend the money and buy Quality K&N or APE Racing pods. There are a few good guides out there on tuning carbs. Factories didn't install pod filters because of pollution restrictions anyone who's been around bikes for awhile knows that. Before doing anything get familiar with carb settings and what throttle percentage they effect and study up on reading plug colors. Do research take your time and don't get frustrated... tuning carbs takes alot of patience.
@mike brink It might be more difficult to get an 85 to run nice with changes to airflow. All normally aspirated bikes had constant volume carbs then and they can be finicky. Not impossible though. I've had good luck with my Uni-Filter pods, but my carbs are simple slide carbs.
Sorry, a little late to the game...but, I notice the colortune kit is available in 12,14, 16mm etc. sizes. How would I know what size kit I need? I believe the measurement would be at the spark plug, but is it at the thread portion? My plugs NGK start their code with a D which indicates 12mm. Or is it the actual 'hex' portion of the plug that the socket grabs onto? Again, in my case it's 18mm. Thanks for your time and consideration!
Thanks for watching! You're correct on both counts...it is the measurement of the thread and if D denotes 12mm then I think you're onto the right size Colortune for you. You can double check by measuring the diameter of the threaded portion of your plug with a caliper.
Sorry I overlooked this comment for some reason and am circling back on it. As I recall, I had to clean out the idle air circuit better and it began working. It's still the last cylinder to fire when I start it cold, but it follows the others shortly after and then runs good.
I have other videos that detail the location of those screws. You're right though. I was so focused on showing the color that I didn't think to set up a B-roll for the air screws. That's a lot more editing work and I was probably under a time crunch at the time. Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV No worries, I decided to make my own video to help other GS550 owners. Thanks for all your videos on the GS550, they were very helpful! th-cam.com/video/35quZPl4gYo/w-d-xo.html
That's how it is when you work on things. Your concentrating on A then B will come up and bite you in the hiney. I really enjoy your series on this bike.
Thank you for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV You're quite welcome.
Thanks for an awesome series! Bought my first bike a couple of months ago to learn motorcycle wrenching. It's a 1982 GS550 M and your videos has helped a lot even though i run the mikuni CV carbs.
Thank you for saying so! There are some distinct advantages to CV carbs over the old mechanical slide carbs, especially for riders who travel in different altitudes. They are more difficult to tune with pod filters though, generally speaking. There are always exceptions to the rule though!
@@UrbanMonkTV Yeah! My plan is to ceep the bike stock so I don't have the problem with pod-filters since i use the original airbox 👍
Sir, you are super smart.
you have no idea how many mechanics I went to fix my carb issue and specially number 4, it wasnt firing up and they didn't know how to fix my problem. My bike is 1978 suzuki gs750 cafe racer that is in mint condition only needs carb tuning, and I just watched your whole channel videos and sir I gotta say, you are a life saver.
got my bike running as new after diagnosing those problems like you mentioned.
Wow! Cool! I'm super happy to hear that. Thank you for watching my channel. Also happy to hear you are able to enjoy your bike now.
When it comes to tuning the idle circuit, all the Suzuki service data for the VM22SS carbs on the GS550 says all the air screws should be set 2 turns out. I decided to do this, to maintain a consistent air flow across all 4, and make the adjustments on the fuel screws only (using Colortune for initial settings, then confirming by inspecting the plugs after a run). This seems to have worked for me.
Thanks for watching and for sharing your experience here for others' benefit. It will help someone else.
Wow, I found your videos looking for info about colortune and it looks amazing. After sorting out the problem with the clutch it would be nice to take a look at the sparks after a long ride. Thanks for you videos 👍🏻
Thank you for watching!
Dam man nice ride so I had the same problems you had. I built a 1975 gs550 cafe racer, that was left out in the rain for 20 plus years, the electronic device that didn’t work was the horn. So the spark plug issue I resolved was that the spark plugs I bought new had to much high resistance in them and also the battery was a fiberglass matt autozone POS. So I switched it to a original lead acid cell and actually use the original nippon denso plugs that were on the bike they were nasty rusty looking and putting on the out side but it fixed the spark plug issue you had. For the clutch I rocked the bike back and forth with the clutch in and in neutral and broke free. I also jetted the carbs myself, I used a small jewelers drill bit on a Dremel. After all this and syncing the carbs I was out like a bandit!!! The bike started ASAP all the time. Eventually I sold it.
Sounds like you had one enjoyable journey with your GS550. Thanks for watching!
Hey Monk! we need to see what you are doing from 8:00 to approximately 10:00 to know how you are tuning the engine. Maybe if you had one of those pop in windows of a camera shot of whatever you are doing to the air mixture/idle mixture screw that would be great!
Sorry, in hindsight I have to agree with you. What's done is done now. I'm on to a new project. I was adjusting the idle air mixture screws on the sides of the carbs. Thanks for watching!
Great video UM! I need to invest in one of those Colortune things! Noticied mine very from plug to plug also, that tool would be a huge help! Had the same problem with my clutch sticking! I just rolled started it down a hill n pop the clutch and they broke loose! One other thing, noticed u lack the rear inner fender, gonna get alota sand n debris w/o it, took the factory one n cut it and made it low profile, then painted n cleared it, made a huge diff! Just a thought.
Good idea. Would think it would help to bring the oil up to full operating temperature beforehand too. As for the rear fender piece, Agree...I want to show this bike at a couple bike shows first. Like it open for aesthetic. Then I'll ride it more. I kept that inner rear fender piece, so have it for that day. Thanks for watching!
Great working!!!!!
I just bought 1979 Suzuki gs750 and I know nothing about it😅; Your videos are very helpful. I will be using your videos to fix my issues.
Yesterday my #3 cylinder was not firing but today My #4 cylinder isn’t firing right; by checking the exhaust to make sure as you did. I don’t know what is my next move from here but I just ordered the carb synchronizer and the color-tune....
Throughout this process I’m trying to
1-Learn
2- don’t spend a lot of money: maybe hard to do since must have tools
3- enjoy the process
Thank you for watching! Your plan is perfect. Also, 1. Fuel/air 2. Compression 3. Spark 4. Timing. It'll have no choice but to run. Enjoy your project. These are very fun machines.
That colour-tune is apretty cool tip👍, and thanks for showing what to look and listen for. Hope the clutch doesnt give you to much problems, time to ride🤘
Thanks for watching! I don't expect the clutch to be too much trouble. There are no parts of the clutch system that are a mystery, so eventually I'll have it working - like all things. Blessing really - I was sort of dreading the end of this project. Too much fun.
Sound’s sweet, also have the gs550; had the same pods but couldn’tget it run right so put back to original filter.
In the end with the pods testing i’ve stopped with main jets of size 110, and still lean.
I enjoy your video’s, keep up sharing 😏
Kind regards from Belgium.
Great information to share! Thanks. I've got 95s in there now, so perhaps I'll find I need to go up (when I get the clutch sorted).
Uh oh! You just made me think of my rebuilt engine for my 77' 550GS having the same problem after I get done with everything else. Mine hasn't had any oil in it either for 10-15 years. Nooooo. I did fog it inside with sea foam before storing it though. Maybe I'll get lucky and not have the same problem (doubt it though). Great video as usual, haven't missed a single one since you started the rebuild. Subscribed, and am not subscribed to very many channels. Awesome job.
Thanks so much for watching and subscribing! I like knowing there's a few people out there enjoying this crazy journey I'm on. 🙂
You never mentioned what you found wrong with the #2 carb was the carb dirty plus b get port?
Oh man...getting to be a long time ago. As I recall I did clean Carb 2 a second time, but I don't recall disassembling the carb bank again. Pretty sure I just hit the passages with some extra carb cleaner. Bike ran better and better each time I rode it in the days following.
My 1969 CB750 clutch sticks every time it sits for more than 6 months. I simply leave the bike in neutral, jog with it and hop on. Once in gear I'll throttle her up while holding the clutch in. The clutch will free up within 200 feet.
The joyous intricacies of vintage bikes!
Hi terrific videos. I have a 1981 gs 550 in the uk. Been off road for 3 years bought as a non runner. Got running on tick over and sounds great but as soon as she is put under load ie gear engaged and throttle opened she stalls. Any ideas what to check. New petrol tap and carbs cleaned. Thanks
Thanks for watching! You mentioned new petrol tap. So you're sure all four cylinders are running? Are all four carb floats adjusted to the correct height and all carb float needle valves working properly? All four exhaust pipes getting hot at idle? How about when you run it in neutral at 2500 rpm or more - all four pipes equally hot then? The symptoms you describe make me question whether all the jets and fuel circuits are clear, but it could be a number of things. An infrared thermometer is cheap and handy for checking this. Hope this helps. Feel free to circle back if you have additional insights or questions.
Also, any changes to air filtration or exhaust from stock oem?
That's surprising that all the air screws are at different settings to obtain that blue color. I would have assumed if you get one set right, the rest will be close to that.
Perhaps in a perfect world, but we're dealing with 40 uear old machinery that has sat idle for years and the passageways inside each of my carbs may still differ slightly in terms of cleanliness. Can't see inside the bodies.
Fantastic job sir 👌
Thanks for watching!
I'd say burning a hole in the piston is a timing issue if it's running lean after quarter throttle lift the needle in the main jet take the plugs out they should be light tan in colour
Thanks for watching!
I use the ColorTune on my 77 GS750 the GS bikes are great. Not sure if you did this or not but I'd go up at least 1 on the main jets and raise the needles 1 ring. If you're interested check out The GS Resources forums and there is a GS Owners group on Facebook will really help you out.
Thanks! I went up to 95s on mains and left needles. Running great with good color on plugs. I'm familiar with GS Resources. Good bunch of guys.
@mike brink The reason people say they don't run right with pods is because they don't know what they are doing. I've been working on these bikes since the 80s both using a Dyno and not using one. First off don't buy cheap pods they don't all flow the same and you will be chasing your tail. Spend the money and buy Quality K&N or APE Racing pods. There are a few good guides out there on tuning carbs. Factories didn't install pod filters because of pollution restrictions anyone who's been around bikes for awhile knows that. Before doing anything get familiar with carb settings and what throttle percentage they effect and study up on reading plug colors. Do research take your time and don't get frustrated... tuning carbs takes alot of patience.
@mike brink It might be more difficult to get an 85 to run nice with changes to airflow. All normally aspirated bikes had constant volume carbs then and they can be finicky. Not impossible though. I've had good luck with my Uni-Filter pods, but my carbs are simple slide carbs.
I had bad running issue with my 550, the other thing that goes wrong, is the rubber diaphram in the fuel tap
When I went through my fuel petcock, I noticed how thin/fragile that diaphragm was. Mine is working good for now. Thanks, as always, for watching.
Oh good
I saw the video well ^^
I have subscribed to you
This is my style
Thank you for watching!
Sorry, a little late to the game...but, I notice the colortune kit is available in 12,14, 16mm etc. sizes. How would I know what size kit I need? I believe the measurement would be at the spark plug, but is it at the thread portion? My plugs NGK start their code with a D which indicates 12mm. Or is it the actual 'hex' portion of the plug that the socket grabs onto? Again, in my case it's 18mm. Thanks for your time and consideration!
Thanks for watching! You're correct on both counts...it is the measurement of the thread and if D denotes 12mm then I think you're onto the right size Colortune for you. You can double check by measuring the diameter of the threaded portion of your plug with a caliper.
@@UrbanMonkTV Fantastic! Thank you VERY much for the quick reply!!
Where could i get that part to buy
Thanks for watching! Depending on where you live, you can purchase one from Amazon here amzn.to/3OrICUc
Did I miss the answer to how you corrected the problem in the number 2 cylinder not firing?
Sorry I overlooked this comment for some reason and am circling back on it. As I recall, I had to clean out the idle air circuit better and it began working. It's still the last cylinder to fire when I start it cold, but it follows the others shortly after and then runs good.
not only for idle when you rev it should change to orange not quite getting to white
Thanks for leaving your insights here for the benefit of others.
I got that info from a old time carb guy. If you don’t see orange while giving it a good rev you may need to change main jets.
Can’t take credit.
It will be a lot more helpful if you showed the location of the carb adjustment. Thanks for Video.
I have other videos that detail the location of those screws. You're right though. I was so focused on showing the color that I didn't think to set up a B-roll for the air screws. That's a lot more editing work and I was probably under a time crunch at the time. Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV No worries, I decided to make my own video to help other GS550 owners. Thanks for all your videos on the GS550, they were very helpful! th-cam.com/video/35quZPl4gYo/w-d-xo.html
what size thread is that colortune ? I'm guessing its 14mm but want to make sure before I buy one
Mine is 14mm. They come in different sizes. Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV I have a 1979 GS550 so I would assume it is 14mm also
@@OutdoorsmansParadise I'd guess that is correct. 🙂
She’s looking pretty
Thanks!
Just park the front tire against a wall rev her up jam her in gear the clutch will break loose
That's eventually what I did, though it took a few attempts to knock it loose. Been working great ever since.
this vid was made before COVID-19.... no excuse for gettin a haircut..
Perhaps. I'm also a rock drummer, so there's always that excuse, held in reserve.
Urban Monk TV -I’m actually watching part 105 right now! Good videos brother!!
@@wtbofnc7880 Thanks for watching!