Few men can do what you do. I cannot decide which I appreciate more than the other. The presentation, the craftsmanship, the building, the artwork, the detail, the function, the model, the flying, the video/music, the minded experience of being in that field...I am aghast at it all. Loved airplanes all my life. Near the end now I thank you for it all...Moses
Aside from the fact that you build and fly miniature works of art your video production work is just fantastic. Love the cinematography, music and everything else about your vids.
I Honestly wish you'd do a full tutorial on your building techniques... And a book. This is GORGEOUS work!!! Even better would be to do some kind of workshop where folks could attend and build while learning from the master!
@@maxfliart Would it be possible for you to create a short video about your rib-making process - or in a future video, devote a little more time to that technique?
A new local buddy of ours built recently his first rubber ff, a Curtiss Robin dime scale model. Now, thanks to this video, he’s considering seriously to build the Altair! Thank you, Tom!
tadrjbs says it all below in his comments about the mastery of your work. I will add, however, that your videos often bring me to tears over the beauty of it all.
Modeling lived like a fairy tale. This is so peaceful to watch your videos. Like a yoga practice for my eyes... Thank you for sharing such a precious time...
A stunning model of an incredible aircraft. The Lockheed Stars were the definition of "If it looks right it will fly well." You sir have nailed it beautifully.
Tom, absolutely beautiful build and flights. You make it look so easy but I know it's not. I live vicariously thru your videos. Once again, thank you for including us.
Dear Mr Hallman. This is real poetry, filled with feelgood and love. My eyes get a little wet, as usual. A bit surprised however about the propeller choice. Perhaps you suspected the need for extra nose weight, and customized a molded plastic one? It looks really good, and seams to suit the aircraft very well. Many thanks!
Thx. Yes, I'm a big fan of these white EB props. I have one on a few ships, including the Caudron, Haines, Seafire & Pulqui. All seem to fly from the start as though they're in the cruise mode, which is quite beautiful. At the time, Easybuilt or Volare was not selling a 9" version, only smaller and larger, so I chopped off the tips. And yes, I suspected the need for nose weight. They've since come out with the 9.5" white prop.
A beautiful model, amazing craftsmanship. Your models always leave me in awe. How much rudder trim do you put in to keep it circling within your field?
You always astound me with your flights and builds. I have a question for you as a fellow rubber powered modeler. I’m 43 now and have been building and flying since I was 6. My fondest memory when I was around 6-8 was holding my fathers Jetco Hawk while he wound the rubber. When he allowed me to launch it, it was pure magic. The question I have for you sir, is would you build a Jetco Hawk in honor of my father and fly it as superbly as you do? I will give you all the resources and money to make this happen. The aircraft is no more, but I still have the original nose block and propeller, which I would love to utilize in the build. Thank you sir for your amazing videos
Thankyou for your videos and hardwork making the planes . I find them very relaxing and interesting . P.s Would you be able to do a video about the rubber band motors.
Thx, Rob. I use a dusting of Krylon clear for the final finish. Dope tends to shrink the tissue too much, which leads to warps. The Krylon freezes the tissue in place, and is lighter.
Tom please make a tutorial on how you make the ribs, where did you get the dimensions for the wooden grip mould? How do you trim the control surfaces? Please show me.
There's isn't much mystery to it. I use whatever wood I have on hand (1" - 2" wide), making sure the length of the airfoil is a bit longer than the wing cord for the given model. I soak a piece of 1/16" thick sheet wood in water for a few minutes, then place it between the two halves of the form, wrapping it with either tape or tight rubber bands. Leave it in the window (or warm area) for a couple of days and you'll eventually have the dried airfoil shape. It's a simple matter of slicing the ribs off the end, one by one, as shown in the film. For the control surfaces, I use 3/8" squares of aluminum from a soda can. Make a slot with an X-acto, slip it in half way, then float some CA on it with a pin. It will firmly hold it in place.
@@maxfliart Thank you Tom for the reply. How did you cut the that big chunk of wood so evenly? And how did you determine the the shape of the wooden mould? Please show us a process. Please 🥺
@@yassermasood3423 I use either a powered jig saw or band saw. The airfoil shape is merely the one seen on the plan. Nothing very scientific. Look at any Dave Rees plan and you'll see where I typically go for the shape.
Tom, one of your start to finish build videos (which I now can't find!) had movable hinges on the rudder and elevators. What material do you use for these hinges? Is it stout enough to remain at the final trim settings? Thank you! Your videos are always an inspiration!
Hi Mike. I use small bits of soda can aluminum, anywhere from 3/8" to 1/2" square. I simply slot the balsa with an Xacto blade, then slip them in, securing with CA after they're in place. Usually 2 or 3 hinges is plenty to hold the trim.
Tom, is the UHU really superior enough to warrant the trouble and expense of getting some? I'm doing peanuts and up to 24" or so. I was also curious where you were sourcing your wood. That light is hard to come by!
Any glue stick should work, in fact, I've stopped using UHU because their formula seemed to change a bit, making it less tacky and not as useful with applying tissue. I've bought light wood from Easy Built Models, along with a source in Australia. www.balsacentral.com/products/auszac-balsa-sheet-915mm Their Airolite balsa is fantastic.
Just curious, since it's been 20 or more years since I have built the old stick models, what do you use to attach the tissue paper with, since there's no more Aerogloss dope for the covering? Even the r/c WWI planes like the Albatros and Fokker D VII we would paint the lozenge camo pattern with dope over silk. Averaging 20 rolls of scotch tape for masking the individual polygons.
Welcome back, Conrad. I use a glue stick and 70% rubbing alcohol to attach tissue. Most guys use inkjet printers now to create the lozenge pattern. Much less labor intensive!
Really enjoyed this one; again, thanks for a bunch of great tips. I like that pattern for the wingtips--flipping the image to get symmetry. Also, if you don't mind, what is your source for various diameter clear heat shrink tubing? Thank you Tom.
Thx. I lucked out many years ago when a "friend had a friend" who worked at a Heinz factory, so they had 500' rolls of the 2" wide shrink wrap tubing. Lifetime supply. But another friend needed wider tubing, which at the time, was found via buyheatshrink.com, believe it or not. That was 2014, and I haven't checked lately, but perhaps they still sell the wider product. I'd suggest a web search to find more, as they typically offer large rolls, which can get costly. Otherwise, it might be cheapest to go with the classic vacuformer or plunge mold. BTW, here's a demo I did awhile back with this shrink wrap tubing. Cheap thrills. I didn't make it fully public, since at the time I didn't know of a source. th-cam.com/video/n-KqNGTk258/w-d-xo.html
I hope this is not a stupid question. Is there any special method you use to attach the wing? I have started my first model and I am getting to the tissue part, but looking at it not sure how to properly secure the low wing. It is a Hawker Hurricane kit.
A reasonable question for sure. Some, like myself, like to attach the wing using a glue that can either be dissolved, or peeled off easily, in the event of the need for a repositioning, or more likely, repairs. Depending on the specific damage, I've often found it much easier to repair a wing that is separated from the fuselage. So I use a glue like Sobo, which is rubbery but firm. I tack glue the leading edge and trailing edge locations. It doesn't take much. I can peel is away if I need to repair. Others use the old Testers glue in the green tube, which I believe can be loosened with acetone. If I have that wrong, I'm sure others will make suggestions, which will be helpful to u and the troops here. Have fun with the Hawker!
I gently rub the frame with the glue stick, then float the alcohol thru the tissue with a small brush as I tug and pull the tissue as tight as I dare. I then shrink the tissue with water, and as a final coating, dust it with Krylon matte or glossy. I don't use dope.
@@maxfliart Sorry, a secondary question. Why doesn't the water make the inkjet ink run? I changed to a laserjet for printing worksheets I use outdoors due to that problem.
@@maxfliart Oh, OK. I had an Epson and the Ink was definitely not waterproof! Hope this helps someone inspired by your work. Thx for the quick reply :-)
Thx for asking, John. I first spray the back of the yellow sheet with white, then a few passes of silver. Both work together, making the tissue nearly 100% opaque. Works for the fillets (tissue & bond) and the canopy glazing too.
@@maxfliart thanks for the tip. I haven't built a rubber model in a while but intend to do one in the near future. I have a stash of kits but cannot decide which one to build. Most of mine are Easy Built Kits.
I use either a toothpick or a pin point for applying glue. Any excess is quickly wiped off, or removed cleanly during the final sanding. I like to have the models clean and smooth before applying the tissue. Any rough areas are filled with lightweight spackling, then gently sanded.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.83[2/2] ประสบการณ์ขนหัวลุกจากตำนานวงการผี!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/T_kFecQw7Ds/mqdefault.jpg)
No carbon. No 3d printers. No noise.
Just beautiful. Flies great! Thank you!
I've always considered myself to be a competent builder, but this is true art! My life is better for having watched this superb video. Thanks.
Agreed. You'd expect to see these in a museum, but they belong in the sky.
Yes, you would think the Smithsonian would declare stick and true modeling a true art form.
Wow, I could not have said it better myself.
Few men can do what you do. I cannot decide which I appreciate more than the other. The presentation, the craftsmanship, the building, the artwork, the detail, the function, the model, the flying, the video/music, the minded experience of being in that field...I am aghast at it all. Loved airplanes all my life. Near the end now I thank you for it all...Moses
Aside from the fact that you build and fly miniature works of art your video production work is just fantastic. Love the cinematography, music and everything else about your vids.
I Honestly wish you'd do a full tutorial on your building techniques... And a book. This is GORGEOUS work!!! Even better would be to do some kind of workshop where folks could attend and build while learning from the master!
Thx for the suggestion, but time wouldn't allow. Hopefully the films here are enough to show the process.
@@maxfliart Would it be possible for you to create a short video about your rib-making process - or in a future video, devote a little more time to that technique?
A new local buddy of ours built recently his first rubber ff, a Curtiss Robin dime scale model.
Now, thanks to this video, he’s considering seriously to build the Altair!
Thank you, Tom!
Thx, OA...great to hear. Cheers.
tadrjbs says it all below in his comments about the mastery of your work. I will add, however, that your videos often bring me to tears over the beauty of it all.
My first time watching this vid, and I can’t get enough of your superior skills. You have helped me immensely in my modeling pursuits, thank you Tom
Nice. A master class in building. I'm taking notes. And she flies so nicely. No hanger queens here. Well done...
In the last 40 plus year I built and flew numerous RC airplanes, never once did I meet the skills you exhibited
Rotating the framed up wing while you were taking the video was a very helpful aid to learning.
Thx.
I must echo the sentiment of the others flying art. Beautiful, and peaceful.
A lost art. I remember as a kid the balsa models available were nuts. My dad built tons of them back in the 40s and 50s.
Modeling lived like a fairy tale. This is so peaceful to watch your videos. Like a yoga practice for my eyes... Thank you for sharing such a precious time...
A stunning model of an incredible aircraft. The Lockheed Stars were the definition of "If it looks right it will fly well." You sir have nailed it beautifully.
After watching the video the time that this takes to get the details correct is, wow, Amazing job, brother.
Work of art. Kudos to you for having such patients to build the lost art of rubber power. Not too many people still do them.
Truly impressive… build quality and fun flying! Thanks for posting.
Your models are always so elegant. Simple yet beautiful. Every time I watch your video I promise to myself to try and build one myself one day.
A 10-minute build masterclass. Thank you.
Excellence!
Who would give this a thumbs down?
Very cool! Having built many RC Plane kits from scratch, I can appreciate the craftsmanship... which is way better than mine!
Beautiful work- always enjoy seeing your models start to finish
Beautiful bird. Love the stills of your work area.
Work of art.
Wow 🤩 lovely craftsmanship 😎
Tom, imagine me standing and applauding!
The wing rib idea is great!
One of my favourite subjects. You have done it proud.
You and your planes are amazing.
Thank you for the plan, as well as the very detailed walk-though of the build. Excellent video!
That's beautiful.
You really are a master of your craft thanks for posting the videos 🇬🇧
Beautiful flight. Smooth and without constant fugoids.
Beatiful job. 👏
I'm just glad you're using your powers for good, rather than evil.
"Trim flights" indeed.
A wonderful video in all respects. Thank you.
Tom, absolutely beautiful build and flights. You make it look so easy but I know it's not. I live vicariously thru your videos. Once again, thank you for including us.
Another beauty! This one really caught my eye. It seemed like a lot of lumber, but that last flight was light as air. Your spectacles appeared often!
Beautiful, it is amazing to follow your construction process. So much to learn from you! Thanks for sharing this.
Beautiful! Thanks for the tips while building.
I love this! Thanks!
Dear Mr Hallman. This is real poetry, filled with feelgood and love. My eyes get a little wet, as usual. A bit surprised however about the propeller choice. Perhaps you suspected the need for extra nose weight, and customized a molded plastic one? It looks really good, and seams to suit the aircraft very well. Many thanks!
Thx. Yes, I'm a big fan of these white EB props. I have one on a few ships, including the Caudron, Haines, Seafire & Pulqui. All seem to fly from the start as though they're in the cruise mode, which is quite beautiful. At the time, Easybuilt or Volare was not selling a 9" version, only smaller and larger, so I chopped off the tips. And yes, I suspected the need for nose weight. They've since come out with the 9.5" white prop.
Incredible work!
Beautiful
Now THAT is a nice looking model!
Your air frames are a work of art and a pleasure to view. Thank you for sharing.
Wow ....... such a beautiful build and flight . Thanks for sharing .
Masterpiece 👌
Such a craftsman. Love your videos. Thanks 😊
A beautiful model, amazing craftsmanship. Your models always leave me in awe. How much rudder trim do you put in to keep it circling within your field?
Thx. Not much. It's more about thrust. In fact, she now circles to the left, after I bumped up a tad in cross section.
Simply beautiful!
Absolutely gorgeous!
Magnificent!
Love it.
Hermoso trabajo!! muy lindo modelo. Felicitaciones!!!
Gracias. ¡Disfruto de este modelo!
You always astound me with your flights and builds. I have a question for you as a fellow rubber powered modeler. I’m 43 now and have been building and flying since I was 6. My fondest memory when I was around 6-8 was holding my fathers Jetco Hawk while he wound the rubber. When he allowed me to launch it, it was pure magic. The question I have for you sir, is would you build a Jetco Hawk in honor of my father and fly it as superbly as you do? I will give you all the resources and money to make this happen. The aircraft is no more, but I still have the original nose block and propeller, which I would love to utilize in the build. Thank you sir for your amazing videos
Very nice 👍🏻
Impresionante. Tom.
Thankyou for your videos and hardwork making the planes .
I find them very relaxing and interesting .
P.s Would you be able to do a video about the rubber band motors.
Thx. I'm going to be making a film on making, braiding, & installing motors in the next few weeks. Stay tuned.
Fantastic! I do have one question... did you use a dope compound for the covering?
Thx, Rob. I use a dusting of Krylon clear for the final finish. Dope tends to shrink the tissue too much, which leads to warps. The Krylon freezes the tissue in place, and is lighter.
Tom please make a tutorial on how you make the ribs, where did you get the dimensions for the wooden grip mould? How do you trim the control surfaces? Please show me.
There's isn't much mystery to it. I use whatever wood I have on hand (1" - 2" wide), making sure the length of the airfoil is a bit longer than the wing cord for the given model. I soak a piece of 1/16" thick sheet wood in water for a few minutes, then place it between the two halves of the form, wrapping it with either tape or tight rubber bands. Leave it in the window (or warm area) for a couple of days and you'll eventually have the dried airfoil shape. It's a simple matter of slicing the ribs off the end, one by one, as shown in the film. For the control surfaces, I use 3/8" squares of aluminum from a soda can. Make a slot with an X-acto, slip it in half way, then float some CA on it with a pin. It will firmly hold it in place.
@@maxfliart
Thank you Tom for the reply.
How did you cut the that big chunk of wood so evenly? And how did you determine the the shape of the wooden mould?
Please show us a process. Please 🥺
@@yassermasood3423 I use either a powered jig saw or band saw. The airfoil shape is merely the one seen on the plan.
Nothing very scientific. Look at any Dave Rees plan and you'll see where I typically go for the shape.
Tom, one of your start to finish build videos (which I now can't find!) had movable hinges on the rudder and elevators. What material do you use for these hinges? Is it stout enough to remain at the final trim settings? Thank you! Your videos are always an inspiration!
Hi Mike. I use small bits of soda can aluminum, anywhere from 3/8" to 1/2" square. I simply slot the balsa with an Xacto blade, then slip them in, securing with CA after they're in place. Usually 2 or 3 hinges is plenty to hold the trim.
@@maxfliart Thanks Tom!
Tom, is the UHU really superior enough to warrant the trouble and expense of getting some? I'm doing peanuts and up to 24" or so.
I was also curious where you were sourcing your wood. That light is hard to come by!
Any glue stick should work, in fact, I've stopped using UHU because their formula seemed to change a bit, making it less tacky and not as useful with applying tissue. I've bought light wood from Easy Built Models, along with a source in Australia. www.balsacentral.com/products/auszac-balsa-sheet-915mm
Their Airolite balsa is fantastic.
That is very purty
Tom, the mold you use for wing ribs, can it be used for other models also?
Yes, the shape and length works for various sized models. But I probably have 6-8 different sets for various wing cords.
@@maxfliart yes, I thought that would work.
Another masterpiece and inspiration for me! Is it true that the fuselage is common to all high and low wing Lockheeds?
What make model inkjet printer do you use to get your markings preprinted on the covering ?
I use Epson but other inkjet printers can do the job too. Most important is the ink, which needs to be waterproof. Epson uses Durabrite inks.
Just curious, since it's been 20 or more years since I have built the old stick models, what do you use to attach the tissue paper with, since there's no more Aerogloss dope for the covering?
Even the r/c WWI planes like the Albatros and Fokker D VII we would paint the lozenge camo pattern with dope over silk. Averaging 20 rolls of scotch tape for masking the individual polygons.
Welcome back, Conrad. I use a glue stick and 70% rubbing alcohol to attach tissue. Most guys use inkjet printers now to create the lozenge pattern. Much less labor intensive!
Really enjoyed this one; again, thanks for a bunch of great tips. I like that pattern for the wingtips--flipping the image to get symmetry. Also, if you don't mind, what is your source for various diameter clear heat shrink tubing? Thank you Tom.
Thx. I lucked out many years ago when a "friend had a friend" who worked at a Heinz factory, so they had 500' rolls of the 2" wide shrink wrap tubing. Lifetime supply. But another friend needed wider tubing, which at the time, was found via buyheatshrink.com, believe it or not. That was 2014, and I haven't checked lately, but perhaps they still sell the wider product. I'd suggest a web search to find more, as they typically offer large rolls, which can get costly. Otherwise, it might be cheapest to go with the classic vacuformer or plunge mold. BTW, here's a demo I did awhile back with this shrink wrap tubing. Cheap thrills. I didn't make it fully public, since at the time I didn't know of a source. th-cam.com/video/n-KqNGTk258/w-d-xo.html
I hope this is not a stupid question. Is there any special method you use to attach the wing? I have started my first model and I am getting to the tissue part, but looking at it not sure how to properly secure the low wing. It is a Hawker Hurricane kit.
A reasonable question for sure. Some, like myself, like to attach the wing using a glue that can either be dissolved, or peeled off easily, in the event of the need for a repositioning, or more likely, repairs. Depending on the specific damage, I've often found it much easier to repair a wing that is separated from the fuselage. So I use a glue like Sobo, which is rubbery but firm. I tack glue the leading edge and trailing edge locations. It doesn't take much. I can peel is away if I need to repair. Others use the old Testers glue in the green tube, which I believe can be loosened with acetone. If I have that wrong, I'm sure others will make suggestions, which will be helpful to u and the troops here. Have fun with the Hawker!
@@maxfliart Thank you, I didn't know if you completely glued it on so the wing doesn't come off or not. I am anxious to get this bird flying.
How do you use a glue stick and alcohol to attach tissue. Do you dope it afterwards or does that add too much weight? thx.
I gently rub the frame with the glue stick, then float the alcohol thru the tissue with a small brush as I tug and pull the tissue as tight as I dare. I then shrink the tissue with water, and as a final coating, dust it with Krylon matte or glossy. I don't use dope.
@@maxfliart Interesting. I'll try that next time I use tissue. Thx.
@@maxfliart Sorry, a secondary question. Why doesn't the water make the inkjet ink run? I changed to a laserjet for printing worksheets I use outdoors due to that problem.
@@CheshireTomcat68 It depends on ur printer's ink. I use an Epson, which has Durabrite ink, and is not reactive to water or alcohol.
@@maxfliart Oh, OK. I had an Epson and the Ink was definitely not waterproof! Hope this helps someone inspired by your work. Thx for the quick reply :-)
Could you share where you get the Pilot silhouettes, I love that little detail
Thx. I make them myself in Photoshop. Here's a folder of various pilots I've used along the way. hallmanstudio.com/Pilot_sheets.zip
Masterful. Q: Do you live over yonder? A: No. Wawayanda.
How did you get the yellow to lay on the blue without the blue showing through?
Thx for asking, John. I first spray the back of the yellow sheet with white, then a few passes of silver. Both work together, making the tissue nearly 100% opaque. Works for the fillets (tissue & bond) and the canopy glazing too.
@@maxfliart thanks for the tip. I haven't built a rubber model in a while but intend to do one in the near future. I have a stash of kits but cannot decide which one to build. Most of mine are Easy Built Kits.
Maybe you can do a tutorial on how you apply glue. You never have drips or excessive glue anywhere.
I use either a toothpick or a pin point for applying glue. Any excess is quickly wiped off, or removed cleanly during the final sanding. I like to have the models clean and smooth before applying the tissue. Any rough areas are filled with lightweight spackling, then gently sanded.
I'd say you were a set of floats away from Tingmissartoq.
Ha...thx.
Glue stick and alcohol. Who knew? (Well not me, that's for sure, and I've been building and flying for over 40 years.)
you SHOULD BE using CA or wood cement.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!