Hey Vince. You forgot one key characteristic of fluorescent paint: the pigment decays in UV light creating the "glow," and will turn clear over time (Ive been told 3 years is average) revealing the base coat color. Most paint brands recommend you use a similar color beneath so as the pigment decays, the color below becomes visible.
Oh I bought the SC75 fluo for my Necrons recently. Great timing, great tips ! The most important thing I achieved to learn on my own about this paint is that it tastes like toothbrush.
This is absolutely perfect timing, I just got some fluorescent paints! Thanks so much for all your work Vince, you are doing the emperor’s work! Have fun and stay safe
Thanks mr. Vince ! Its Saturday morning here on the east coast and I've got the morning off! Great tips & quite timely too ,definitely need to brush up on these techniques. Great explanation
Thanks - my previous efforts with fluorescents weren't working because I was doing the "traditional" building up from darkest to lightest (crystal chunks and weapons that look like necron blades), turns out I was pretty much doing it the wrong way round. This was super helpful.
Thanks for the tips. I recently bought Vallejo fluorescents to experiment with them and their thin consistency is driving me crazy. I also use them for gems when I don't want to spend the time to paint a gem effect. Over a shiny silver metallic paint they look very nice.
Fantastic video! My only criticism is that you posted it 4 days after I tried getting these Neecron effects myself. I learned a lot of things that dont work, now I have the answer key.
Have you ever noticed eventual issues with lightfastness or fading for fluorescents? I used to run into that issue doing custom automotive painting with water-based paints. Even under a full 2 part clear, they would always be the first give up their color and brightness if they spent any time in the sun.
Pretty much every source I've seen has said that fluorescent dyes are not lightfast. The fading is limited under indoor lighting, but direct sunlight will destroy the dye quite quickly. Note that you can cover the fluorescent with a UV-blocking sealer, but then you will lose some of the effect, because part of the brightness of fluorescent pigments is caused by absorption in the UV range and re-emission at the targeted color. (If you're counting on blacklight to give you interesting results, a UV coat will stop that almost entirely.)
I'll second Doug, fluorescent colors are not lightfast in essence. Most artist grade manufacturers list lightfasness of their paints as it is an important information for many professional painters outside of our hobby. But take Schmincke Aero paint range, for example, they do list lighfastness for all the paints in the range except for the fluorescent ones. For display miniatures it might not be an issue as they are not often in direct sunlight but for tabletop it may be a problem. The simple test is to paint color stripes on plastic card or leftover platic pieces (paper will do but it is more meaningfull to test on actual mini material). then cover half of the stripes with an opaque cardboard. Expose to sunlight for a few weeks or month then remove the cardboard to compare with the original protected color. For example it would be a good idea to compare a fluorescent green stripe and an non fluorescent grren of similar tone like scorpion green. see also some useful FAQ www.radiantcolor.com/faq# On a more genral thought, there is a fashion for fluorescent paints, and they certainly look atractive for special effetcs. However note that miniatures painters can achieve spectacular NMM effects with classical paints. Similarily you can achieve neon like effects through high contrast with classical paints, you can find many examples in fine arts pictures.
Thanks Vince for another great tutorial at the perfect time! Working on some RItual Casting cyberpunk models and wasn't satisfied with some of the glowing armor effects using the WarColours fluorescent yet... Time for another GSW order for some of their fluorescents!
@@MrStatistxI'd have to find them I think he's in storage I started with a Vermilion Vallejo paint and did a red wash over it followed by fluorescent orange Vallejo a dry brushing. I believe it was a Dakka fex with enhanced senses.
Vince, you are the man! I was waiting for someone to finally make a good tutorial about fluorescent colors. The only other good one was the one for the glowing eyes that Squidmar did a while back. I love you for this and many other things! :-D
I've used Daler Rowney fluorescent inks pretty well in the past. The blue and red cover OK, but I still use a white base to make sure it pops. Blue works pretty well on power cables and psykers in 40K, and the red works great as glowing eye lenses.
@@VinceVenturella Nothing quite like dropping some red fluorescent ink in the pits of a chaos space marine's eyes then shining a UV light on it. It's a great effect.
Thanks Vince! What are the good "to be mixed" colors? Youve shown us a green that works with fluorescent green. What about yellow, pink and blue? Should I go with something like ocre, chewing-gum pink (probably too saturated, isn't it?) and your favorite teal or turquoise?
IN general, the rules is going to be the closest bright color you can get to the fluorescents. Just find the closest bright shade and use these to add that POP
Curious about fluro lightfastness, particularly in acrylic mediums. Any experience with change in appearance over time? Most artist brands warn that their fluorescents are not lightfast. I am a little newer at this and I \'d like to know what this means for a mini painter, whether display or gaming piece. Great content and tutelage as always, Vince. Thanks for taking the time.
Troll Painter and Son If I may, lightfastness in artist brands is measured in decades. The best pigments are supposed to last a century in “museum conditions” (controlled humidity and light). For most mini painters, this is not relevant. None of the hobby paints have a lightfastness rating, and you shouldn’t expect your paint jobs to last without some fading or discoloring for more than a couple of decades. So yes, fluo colors don’t last, but for most mini painters, it won’t matter. However, if you REALLY want your work to last for a very, very long time, you should avoid them, but then, you should avoid hobby paints altogether.
@@alfyb4512 Thanks for reply. There is a nice academic thesis that is easy to find online by Stephanie Dewinter that summarizes issues with fluro paints since introduced in the 60s. It is 10 years old, however, and I didn't know if any of these mini paint brands claimed to have improved encapsulation over that time. As a mini painter, I really like the effects people have been getting, but we are in an era where the finished project is often a photo gallery and the model is a means for the photo (not a bad thing, per se). Minis have added problems in retaining intensity, thin application as well as humidity /heat/handling if used as a game piece. What I'd really like to see is revisiting 3 or 5-year-old pieces and seeing if the reduced intensity is obvious, or if my concern is mainly theoretical. I agree with your practical conclusion. if interested in citation doi.org/10.4000/ceroart.1659
@@alfyb4512 I just asked this question above. My only issue is that if your minis get stored in the sun at all, the fluorescents WILL fade. My experience has been that they won't last a single year, under a 2 part clearcoat if they see the sun. Even tho they can look really cool, I've always avoided them because of this tendency. Candies over white tend to get you pretty close if the hue is brite enuf. I find they maintain colorfastness much much longer.
@@BjornKuma Candies are usually highly transparent and very saturated, which suggests they're made from modern synthetic organic pigments like quinacridones and phthalos, which tend to be very lightfast. Transparent cool (lemon) yellows are less so, and colours tending towards the rose-crimson side aren't as lightfast as they are claimed to be if you stick them in the sun and you live near the equator.
@@nicholascaldwell6079 pretty much my experience. I love working with candies due to their clear transparency, just have to understand and prepare for bleed through (this can be an advantage tho).
There is another layer to fluorescent paints and it is how it looks like in black light. And mixing fluorescent paint with white dull it down instead of making it brighter under UV. So do not highlight with white mixed with fluo. Highlight white before you coat it with fluo wash like GSW. Unfortunately there is no true white fluorescent paint. GSW one glow blue in UV so it mixes bad with other fluo colors.
My Green Stuff World Fluo paints were separated so badly that not even agitators helped. I had to scrape the pigment out of the bottom of the bottle with a piece of wire before they were any way near usable. Your mileage may vary.
the green stuff world comes with an agitator in it, i will say that ive never shaken a paint as long as i did for those , but they are the best ive used in way of fluo paints. aftre like 2 mins i was like this could really use an agitator... and then after 2 more minutes of shaking the agitator came loose.
@@Bushman42069 that's a good point. I thought some of mine had no agitators in there but they might just have pigment gunk holding them in place. Will have to take another look.
@@Tremadog102 oh theyre in there... i thought my paints were separated too, but their thinned like that for airbrush use. it says airbrush ready. so u really gotta shake em...it actually made me consider buying a paint shaker. but they are the superior of the fluorescent paints that ive tried once i got them shook up. but theyr so thin u barely need to thin them just wet ur brush or use an airbrush.
It could be that they got frozen or something strange somewhere along the way, I've seen things like that happen. I didn't have the experience and haven't heard of it, so it might be a bad batch.
7:17 Well, this is a fantasy gun, but if I had to relate the general design to that of your average rifle, I'd say that's the lower receiver. Never seen one with a plasma coil in it though, so maybe it's the magazine? Thing is, mags are supposed to be removable, whereas that thing looks like it's firmly attached to the gun.
You should try the Liquitex acrylic gouache flourescents. It's surprising how much coverage it has. Still not as good as a regular paint, but leagues better than most flourescents I've tried. Only experimented with the purple so far since I didn't already have that color in other lines.
@@VinceVenturella if you try any of the colors other than Violet, let me know how it compares. Mine isn't a direct comparison since I don't have a comparable color in another line. I'd be curious how the other colors stack up. I'm tempted to pick others to try, but I already have other flourescent colors covered from Daler Rowney and Golden high flow.
Sweet tutorial! The fluorescent effect, how is that effected by glazes/washes on top, does that take a way from the effect? I’m thinking if it is similar to metallics, that opaque glazes will gradually dull the effect, while transparent inks would not dull it to the same extent. This would be good to know in cases where a wash would be an option to bring out the contrast more, which you mention is critical to sell the glow effect.
So in general, you want to avoid any washes or additional paint on top of fluorescents, as yes, it will disrupt their bright nature, in general, you want these to be the last thing you do in an area.
Have you ever painted a mini with glowing skin? I'm gonna be painting some daemons soon (some metal Diaz daemonettes!) and I want to give their skin an otherworldly glow, but I'm not really sure how to do it. The only advice I can find online is about molten skin, which isn't really the same due to the cool "crust" changing how the raised areas are painted.
It would be tough to conceptualize, because a glow like that would be largely caught in the aura around the model. Honestly, I am not sure how I would capture that. I could picture glowing cracks in something because then you could use the other darker areas of the miniature to show the glow.
@@VinceVenturella hmmm... any advice for painting with sort of... inverted light? As in painting a model like one would normally, but inverting the shadow gradient so that the shadows are bright, working into darker midtones and darkest highlights. I could just do this with obscene numbers of thin layers, but without washes to help with shading the recesses, blending those gradients sounds really difficult.
@@LordSoulSicarious Yes, you can do it, but it's more about placing the direct light. My honest advice, and this will sound harsh, but I mean it with all generosity, is don't do it. Inverted light such as you're describing is a really tough thing to sell, because the volumes need to be balanced just right. That being said, if you're not afraid of the potential to fail, try to get some layers and just place the lights in areas that would nromally be shades. Worst outcome is you don't like the effect, best outcome, you learn something fun. :)
Thank you for the video!!! I totally understand the bright/dark/bright thing but for a squelleton how you do it? As they don't have eyes but just a hole.
a dot of light in the center of the cavity, a mid-tone around it, leaving the outer edges of the socket dark, then a soft glaze around the bone outside the socket.
While I have no issue with any other fluo color, that scale pink just doesn't work for me. Probably cause I intended to not use it as some form of energy, but wanted to make the Escher Gang outfit pop more (the parts that are supposedly armored, like the 'boobcups', shoulders and back 'carpace') First I tried to use it to tint white alchemy metalics, didn't look good, then I tried the steps in this video, but just can't get it to look good. Probably just gonna give up and use regular colors for those and use the pink wherever else it might fit in the future.
Yeah, in those cases, you have to mix it with another pink and just use it to pop up the color, that being said, I used more of the warcolours pink Fluor for that exact purpose.
Great tutorial vince. Just one question, say you were to do fluorescent on a model that you wanted a matte finish on, would using matte varnish dumb down the fluorescent? Just wondering if I’d need to matte varnish the model before adding the fluorescent paint to the model. Thanks.
I have not tested it, but I just got vallejo fluo blue in the mail yesterday. Just from outside it looks like any regular blue color, while other fluo colors instantly stab you in the eye from inside the bottle
@@VinceVenturella I've mixed the scale 75 florescent blue with a bit of the fluorescent white - makes it pop a bit more but not the to the same extent as the others
@Nine Castles thank you my basket is locked and loaded with element games as I need some secret weapon paint. I just need a replacement for the war color paint. I didn't know about entoyment another website for me to consider.
I've found Vallejo Model Color fluorescents to be really gummy out of the bottle and hard to apply a thin coat of. Has anyone else run into this? Am I just not shaking them well enough or do I need to thin them with water/medium/flow improver?
@@VinceVenturella Would you prefer golden high flow to GSW fluorescents? I really liked the green fluorescent from GSW you used on the necron in your other video. Especially since I'm also painting necrons in the classic green. Thanks so much for the advice!
That's fairly complicated I honestly wouldn't be sure how to go about that, unless you were to integrate a fluorescing paint into the goldish tones of the eyes.
Vince Venturella awesome! I’m a long time mini sculptor and short time mini painter and I’d love to pick your brain! Painting minis has helped me sculpt them and so have your videos!
You mean in a UV light so it fluoresces? Most of these will do that, but that isn't really what I am using them for, more just for the ultra bright color. :)
Every time you say kneecron, a star dims somewhere in the galaxy.
James Moriarty lol
After 259 amazing hobby cheating videos Vince can call them whatever the hell he wants
I laughed at this more than I should've 😂
I can only hope so. Hopefully that is a star that contains these Necrons and they go into hibernation rather than come attack us. ;)
Hey Vince. You forgot one key characteristic of fluorescent paint: the pigment decays in UV light creating the "glow," and will turn clear over time (Ive been told 3 years is average) revealing the base coat color. Most paint brands recommend you use a similar color beneath so as the pigment decays, the color below becomes visible.
Yes, a few people have mentioned that, I have never had the issue but my models are not in the sunlight in any way.
At some point I have to take time off work and watch all 259 of these, just incredible advice.
Well, there are some in there I would skip, but I appreciate it. :)
Oh I bought the SC75 fluo for my Necrons recently.
Great timing, great tips ! The most important thing I achieved to learn on my own about this paint is that it tastes like toothbrush.
You are not wrong on the taste. :)
This is absolutely perfect timing, I just got some fluorescent paints! Thanks so much for all your work Vince, you are doing the emperor’s work! Have fun and stay safe
You are very welcome :)
Thanks mr. Vince ! Its Saturday morning here on the east coast and I've got the morning off! Great tips & quite timely too ,definitely need to brush up on these techniques. Great explanation
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
I waited 2 weeks for this video with my neeckrons sitting still. I'm glad I did. That ink + flow improver tip will help me a lot!
Awesome, happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella What kind of ink is that?
@@toreador13 Green Stuff World Fluorescents
@@VinceVenturella Sorry, I meant what was the base white you used with the flow improver? I thought you called it an ink?
@@toreador13 ahh yes, Daler Rowney FW White Ink.
Thanks - my previous efforts with fluorescents weren't working because I was doing the "traditional" building up from darkest to lightest (crystal chunks and weapons that look like necron blades), turns out I was pretty much doing it the wrong way round. This was super helpful.
Excellent, happy to help. :)
Thanks for the tips. I recently bought Vallejo fluorescents to experiment with them and their thin consistency is driving me crazy.
I also use them for gems when I don't want to spend the time to paint a gem effect. Over a shiny silver metallic paint they look very nice.
Glad I could help!
Another BRILLIANT video Vince. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad you enjoyed it
That split brush... you are a better man than I
Sometimes you have to work with what you get. ;)
Fantastic video! My only criticism is that you posted it 4 days after I tried getting these Neecron effects myself. I learned a lot of things that dont work, now I have the answer key.
Happy to help, even if a little late. :)
Have you ever noticed eventual issues with lightfastness or fading for fluorescents? I used to run into that issue doing custom automotive painting with water-based paints. Even under a full 2 part clear, they would always be the first give up their color and brightness if they spent any time in the sun.
Never noticed an issue and I have some I paited years ago, but I don't keep my minis anywhere near sunlight.
Pretty much every source I've seen has said that fluorescent dyes are not lightfast. The fading is limited under indoor lighting, but direct sunlight will destroy the dye quite quickly.
Note that you can cover the fluorescent with a UV-blocking sealer, but then you will lose some of the effect, because part of the brightness of fluorescent pigments is caused by absorption in the UV range and re-emission at the targeted color. (If you're counting on blacklight to give you interesting results, a UV coat will stop that almost entirely.)
I'll second Doug, fluorescent colors are not lightfast in essence. Most artist grade manufacturers list lightfasness of their paints as it is an important information for many professional painters outside of our hobby. But take Schmincke Aero paint range, for example, they do list lighfastness for all the paints in the range except for the fluorescent ones.
For display miniatures it might not be an issue as they are not often in direct sunlight but for tabletop it may be a problem.
The simple test is to paint color stripes on plastic card or leftover platic pieces (paper will do but it is more meaningfull to test on actual mini material). then cover half of the stripes with an opaque cardboard. Expose to sunlight for a few weeks or month then remove the cardboard to compare with the original protected color. For example it would be a good idea to compare a fluorescent green stripe and an non fluorescent grren of similar tone like scorpion green.
see also some useful FAQ
www.radiantcolor.com/faq#
On a more genral thought, there is a fashion for fluorescent paints, and they certainly look atractive for special effetcs. However note that miniatures painters can achieve spectacular NMM effects with classical paints. Similarily you can achieve neon like effects through high contrast with classical paints, you can find many examples in fine arts pictures.
Thanks Vince for another great tutorial at the perfect time! Working on some RItual Casting cyberpunk models and wasn't satisfied with some of the glowing armor effects using the WarColours fluorescent yet... Time for another GSW order for some of their fluorescents!
Glad I could help!
Perfect timing, I've just started a project with a lot of fluorescents. Cheers Vince
Excellent, always happy to help. :)
07:14
I always imagine them to be a sort of power cell or something :D
We just called them coils, more what they are shape wise as opposed to what they do. Power cell makes sense though.
I'm okay with either. :)
I did a carnifex once dry brushing fluorescent paint it looked pretty cool.
IF you got a picture somewhere, I'd be glad to take a look. Sounds like an interesting idea, but can't imagine how it would look.
Very cool!
@@MrStatistxI'd have to find them I think he's in storage I started with a Vermilion Vallejo paint and did a red wash over it followed by fluorescent orange Vallejo a dry brushing. I believe it was a Dakka fex with enhanced senses.
Vince, you are the man! I was waiting for someone to finally make a good tutorial about fluorescent colors. The only other good one was the one for the glowing eyes that Squidmar did a while back. I love you for this and many other things! :-D
Glad I could help!
Listing the paints used in the description really helps us noobs.
Happy to help.
I've used Daler Rowney fluorescent inks pretty well in the past. The blue and red cover OK, but I still use a white base to make sure it pops. Blue works pretty well on power cables and psykers in 40K, and the red works great as glowing eye lenses.
Yeah, I ronically that is a brand I haven't really used, good to know they are viable.
@@VinceVenturella Nothing quite like dropping some red fluorescent ink in the pits of a chaos space marine's eyes then shining a UV light on it. It's a great effect.
I was waiting for this
Hope it lived up to your expectations. :)
Thanks for this video! I'm thinking of using a light blue for an "electrically energized" effect. Great tips on how to get it to pop!
Glad it was helpful. :)
Great tip on the glow effect!
Thanks!
Thanks Vince!
What are the good "to be mixed" colors? Youve shown us a green that works with fluorescent green. What about yellow, pink and blue? Should I go with something like ocre, chewing-gum pink (probably too saturated, isn't it?) and your favorite teal or turquoise?
IN general, the rules is going to be the closest bright color you can get to the fluorescents. Just find the closest bright shade and use these to add that POP
Wish I had found the Three of you sooner. Thanks Vince. Dean Martin (Scoop)and Jerry Lewis ( Jon ) and yo are the Duke!
That's amazing, love it. I am a huge rat pack fan, so that is awesome.
I meant to type in Scott as Dean Martin
So glad you mentioned eyes.
Happy to help and I hope that gave some good thoughts.
thank you for the advice love the video loads of useful tips here from start to finish.
Glad it was helpful!
Curious about fluro lightfastness, particularly in acrylic mediums. Any experience with change in appearance over time? Most artist brands warn that their fluorescents are not lightfast. I am a little newer at this and I \'d like to know what this means for a mini painter, whether display or gaming piece. Great content and tutelage as always, Vince. Thanks for taking the time.
Troll Painter and Son If I may, lightfastness in artist brands is measured in decades. The best pigments are supposed to last a century in “museum conditions” (controlled humidity and light). For most mini painters, this is not relevant. None of the hobby paints have a lightfastness rating, and you shouldn’t expect your paint jobs to last without some fading or discoloring for more than a couple of decades.
So yes, fluo colors don’t last, but for most mini painters, it won’t matter. However, if you REALLY want your work to last for a very, very long time, you should avoid them, but then, you should avoid hobby paints altogether.
@@alfyb4512 Thanks for reply. There is a nice academic thesis that is easy to find online by Stephanie Dewinter that summarizes issues with fluro paints since introduced in the 60s. It is 10 years old, however, and I didn't know if any of these mini paint brands claimed to have improved encapsulation over that time. As a mini painter, I really like the effects people have been getting, but we are in an era where the finished project is often a photo gallery and the model is a means for the photo (not a bad thing, per se). Minis have added problems in retaining intensity, thin application as well as humidity /heat/handling if used as a game piece. What I'd really like to see is revisiting 3 or 5-year-old pieces and seeing if the reduced intensity is obvious, or if my concern is mainly theoretical. I agree with your practical conclusion. if interested in citation doi.org/10.4000/ceroart.1659
@@alfyb4512 I just asked this question above. My only issue is that if your minis get stored in the sun at all, the fluorescents WILL fade. My experience has been that they won't last a single year, under a 2 part clearcoat if they see the sun. Even tho they can look really cool, I've always avoided them because of this tendency. Candies over white tend to get you pretty close if the hue is brite enuf. I find they maintain colorfastness much much longer.
@@BjornKuma Candies are usually highly transparent and very saturated, which suggests they're made from modern synthetic organic pigments like quinacridones and phthalos, which tend to be very lightfast. Transparent cool (lemon) yellows are less so, and colours tending towards the rose-crimson side aren't as lightfast as they are claimed to be if you stick them in the sun and you live near the equator.
@@nicholascaldwell6079 pretty much my experience. I love working with candies due to their clear transparency, just have to understand and prepare for bleed through (this can be an advantage tho).
There is another layer to fluorescent paints and it is how it looks like in black light. And mixing fluorescent paint with white dull it down instead of making it brighter under UV. So do not highlight with white mixed with fluo. Highlight white before you coat it with fluo wash like GSW. Unfortunately there is no true white fluorescent paint. GSW one glow blue in UV so it mixes bad with other fluo colors.
My Green Stuff World Fluo paints were separated so badly that not even agitators helped. I had to scrape the pigment out of the bottom of the bottle with a piece of wire before they were any way near usable. Your mileage may vary.
the green stuff world comes with an agitator in it, i will say that ive never shaken a paint as long as i did for those , but they are the best ive used in way of fluo paints. aftre like 2 mins i was like this could really use an agitator... and then after 2 more minutes of shaking the agitator came loose.
@@Bushman42069 that's a good point. I thought some of mine had no agitators in there but they might just have pigment gunk holding them in place. Will have to take another look.
@@Tremadog102 oh theyre in there... i thought my paints were separated too, but their thinned like that for airbrush use. it says airbrush ready. so u really gotta shake em...it actually made me consider buying a paint shaker. but they are the superior of the fluorescent paints that ive tried once i got them shook up. but theyr so thin u barely need to thin them just wet ur brush or use an airbrush.
It could be that they got frozen or something strange somewhere along the way, I've seen things like that happen. I didn't have the experience and haven't heard of it, so it might be a bad batch.
Good topic, thanks for the expertise!
Glad it was helpful!
Love your content, why not add some affiliate links for paints?
I have an affiliate link on my newest videos for element games, you can always grab the link from there and I am going to try to add more soon.
Great stuff! Have you tried Huge Miniatures (heavy body) or Army Painter (airbrush thin) flourescents?
I've tried some Huge miniature stuff, mainly their additives, but I haven't given those a try yet.
Do you have any thoughts on fluorescent pigments vs paints? Thanks for all your useful info!
Haven't played enough with Fluorescent pigments, that's on my list to correct.
7:17 Well, this is a fantasy gun, but if I had to relate the general design to that of your average rifle, I'd say that's the lower receiver. Never seen one with a plasma coil in it though, so maybe it's the magazine? Thing is, mags are supposed to be removable, whereas that thing looks like it's firmly attached to the gun.
A generator maybe? Just spitballing here.
I always assume fantasy guns are full of fantasy parts. ;)
You should try the Liquitex acrylic gouache flourescents. It's surprising how much coverage it has. Still not as good as a regular paint, but leagues better than most flourescents I've tried. Only experimented with the purple so far since I didn't already have that color in other lines.
Thank you, I'll have to give them a try. :)
@@VinceVenturella if you try any of the colors other than Violet, let me know how it compares. Mine isn't a direct comparison since I don't have a comparable color in another line. I'd be curious how the other colors stack up. I'm tempted to pick others to try, but I already have other flourescent colors covered from Daler Rowney and Golden high flow.
Sweet tutorial! The fluorescent effect, how is that effected by glazes/washes on top, does that take a way from the effect? I’m thinking if it is similar to metallics, that opaque glazes will gradually dull the effect, while transparent inks would not dull it to the same extent. This would be good to know in cases where a wash would be an option to bring out the contrast more, which you mention is critical to sell the glow effect.
So in general, you want to avoid any washes or additional paint on top of fluorescents, as yes, it will disrupt their bright nature, in general, you want these to be the last thing you do in an area.
this came just in time! im doing some flourescent on my stormcast now
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
@@VinceVenturella quick question: what is your opinion on vallejo flourescents?
i had just bout a set of them before watching this video lol
@@Farmers-Almanac I don't really like them, my preferences would be Warcolours, Scale 75 and Green Stuff world.
Have you ever painted a mini with glowing skin? I'm gonna be painting some daemons soon (some metal Diaz daemonettes!) and I want to give their skin an otherworldly glow, but I'm not really sure how to do it. The only advice I can find online is about molten skin, which isn't really the same due to the cool "crust" changing how the raised areas are painted.
It would be tough to conceptualize, because a glow like that would be largely caught in the aura around the model. Honestly, I am not sure how I would capture that. I could picture glowing cracks in something because then you could use the other darker areas of the miniature to show the glow.
@@VinceVenturella hmmm... any advice for painting with sort of... inverted light? As in painting a model like one would normally, but inverting the shadow gradient so that the shadows are bright, working into darker midtones and darkest highlights. I could just do this with obscene numbers of thin layers, but without washes to help with shading the recesses, blending those gradients sounds really difficult.
@@LordSoulSicarious Yes, you can do it, but it's more about placing the direct light. My honest advice, and this will sound harsh, but I mean it with all generosity, is don't do it. Inverted light such as you're describing is a really tough thing to sell, because the volumes need to be balanced just right. That being said, if you're not afraid of the potential to fail, try to get some layers and just place the lights in areas that would nromally be shades. Worst outcome is you don't like the effect, best outcome, you learn something fun. :)
Been waiting for this one nice
Hope you enjoyed it! :)
Can't wait to try this on the staff of my kneecromancer
Really any Knee based figures. ;)
Vince, could you possibly do a cheat video on using flow aid in non traditional ways?
I'm not sure I use it any way other than it's purpose really, making things flow better, but I will think on it. :)
Yesssss more synthwave necrons!
Hope this was helpful. :)
Have you tried Scale 75 FX fluorescent white? I don't know how you make white look brighter.
It's actually a pearlescent, not a bright white. If you want the brightest white, the ink I used is generally your best option.
What if we used chrome underneath them? I've noticed mini painters don't often use chrome.
It could help certainly.
Thank you for the video!!!
I totally understand the bright/dark/bright thing but for a squelleton how you do it? As they don't have eyes but just a hole.
a dot of light in the center of the cavity, a mid-tone around it, leaving the outer edges of the socket dark, then a soft glaze around the bone outside the socket.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, I will try that
While I have no issue with any other fluo color, that scale pink just doesn't work for me. Probably cause I intended to not use it as some form of energy, but wanted to make the Escher Gang outfit pop more (the parts that are supposedly armored, like the 'boobcups', shoulders and back 'carpace') First I tried to use it to tint white alchemy metalics, didn't look good, then I tried the steps in this video, but just can't get it to look good. Probably just gonna give up and use regular colors for those and use the pink wherever else it might fit in the future.
Yeah, in those cases, you have to mix it with another pink and just use it to pop up the color, that being said, I used more of the warcolours pink Fluor for that exact purpose.
@@VinceVenturella guess a War colors order is due again, thanks
Great tutorial vince. Just one question, say you were to do fluorescent on a model that you wanted a matte finish on, would using matte varnish dumb down the fluorescent? Just wondering if I’d need to matte varnish the model before adding the fluorescent paint to the model. Thanks.
It shouldn't really change it too much. The Fluroescent paints are actually quite bright, they are just matte. You can varnish before or after. :)
Vince, I''ve noticed no one comments on fluorescent blues. Is that cause they're not as bright? Would they be useful for a plasma glow effect
I have not tested it, but I just got vallejo fluo blue in the mail yesterday. Just from outside it looks like any regular blue color, while other fluo colors instantly stab you in the eye from inside the bottle
Yeah, I've never really found one that pops or has that true electric glow, all the blues I've tried are very dissapointing.
@@VinceVenturella I've mixed the scale 75 florescent blue with a bit of the fluorescent white - makes it pop a bit more but not the to the same extent as the others
Thank you for the second part of the video. Can you recommend a alternative to war colour fluorescent green as I can't find it in the UK.
@Nine Castles thank you my basket is locked and loaded with element games as I need some secret weapon paint. I just need a replacement for the war color paint. I didn't know about entoyment another website for me to consider.
Yep, exactly what I would recommend.
so would you say the vallejo game color green fluoresce one is thin as well? mine seems to have toothepaste consistency out of the pot.
That line is *super* thick, both the Game and Model Color fluos, you gotta thin them more, if you prefer them more thin try the Air lines
Yep, the Vallejo are super thick and the advice below is correct, the air will be thinner, but the inks are when you want that smoothest coverage.
Great stuff as always good sir
Glad you enjoyed it
Are the different fluo brands quite similar or would you recommend one over another?
I know you saw the other video. I like Warcolours, Scale 75, Green Stuff World and Golden High Flow.
Thx. Do the Colours glow in the dark as aspected?
I know the golden one does, I've never tested all of them.
This is my first army, and I’ll call the. Neecrons to credit Vince with the painting scheme I use. Cite your sources.
Is the "flow improver" you're using the same as airbrush flow improver?
Have you tried Scale 75's Inktense Lime? I like it for glows. And Necrotite from P3.
It's not in this case, though you could easily substitute just fine, they are basically the same. Haven't used the Inktense 2 set yet.
I've found Vallejo Model Color fluorescents to be really gummy out of the bottle and hard to apply a thin coat of. Has anyone else run into this? Am I just not shaking them well enough or do I need to thin them with water/medium/flow improver?
I don’t favor those, they are as you describe. Golden High Flow will serve you better
@@VinceVenturella Would you prefer golden high flow to GSW fluorescents? I really liked the green fluorescent from GSW you used on the necron in your other video. Especially since I'm also painting necrons in the classic green. Thanks so much for the advice!
@@TheNoble6ism The GSW one is also fine, same consistency.
I have the idea to give a pair of lizardmen golden eyes by day and red glow in the dark, is such a thing possible?
That's fairly complicated I honestly wouldn't be sure how to go about that, unless you were to integrate a fluorescing paint into the goldish tones of the eyes.
Interesting technique
Thank you, happy to help. :)
Fkn’ “KNEE CRON” 😂
Always.
When Gencon opens up again will you go?
Absolutely.
Vince Venturella awesome! I’m a long time mini sculptor and short time mini painter and I’d love to pick your brain! Painting minis has helped me sculpt them and so have your videos!
Like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm
Much appreciated. :)
Show the result shinning. You showed it with normal light.
You mean in a UV light so it fluoresces? Most of these will do that, but that isn't really what I am using them for, more just for the ultra bright color. :)
@@VinceVenturella I mean in UV light. I understand :).
KNEECRON WTF
It started as a joke, but now it's just how I say it. :)
wtf is a kneecron?
You know, a Robit, but like a skeleton Robit. ;)