I have a 2004 chevy suburban and my clutch fan works well enough but sometimes during hot SoCal summers the AC is not half as cool as it should be, unless im on a highway moving at a consistently moderate to high speeds. I have been watching a lot of videos about upgrading to an Efan to solve my issue. Thanks for the informative video- this helps me have a better understanding of why and what Im trying to accomplish and everything that goes with it. 👍🏽
Thanks Mech! Agreed. If my approx. 2” thin SPAL puller efan doesn’t work well enough (REALLY tight fit), I’ll have to change to a pusher fan with a bigger motor. The front of my radiator has much more space.
That was more technical stuff in one vid than I’ve ever seen since college!!! I’ll have to watch it a couple times to soak it all in!!! SUBSCRIBED!! Trying to run down a constant overheat issue on my SBC swapped Jeep YJ- with almost no results! Your info will help a TON! Alf ready picked up a Spal 16 low profile, and have been playing with thermostats trying to keep it cooler- but over time it’ll creep up to over 230*- and that’s at low speed around my neighborhood- but works perfect at idle….. I had a 160 thermostat, and have played with so many temp sensors to control fan on/ off- but no matter what sensor- once I start driving it they never turn off and temp never comes down, unless I stop and let it idle. Going to try a 180/ and a gutted thermostat with present fan sensor of 200/ 185 to see if that works, but after that it’s going to be a better radiator! It’s supposed to be a 3 core aluminum (Amazon) but doesn’t seem to help. Also it has no way to attach a fan shroud- so I bought one that I’m going to try metal taping on to see how much improvement it gives…… so you can see, I’ve been fighting this for a WHILE! Your info will be very helpful!!!! I did also find blown head gaskets on both sides (after A LOT OF HEAD SCRATCHING- that only leaked between middle two cylinders on both sides- no oil water mix, or bubbles in radiator! So it made that hard to find) so did a head swap and new gaskets, but still runs hot under load….. Getting down to the last few parts now after tons of money and effort over this!!!!!!!
Thank you! this video is amazing. I have a 1.25'' dual row aluminum radiator on my 67 mustang and I think I have a pretty good idea of how to choose my electric fan thanks to you.
I had an old flex a lite shrouded one piece fan go bad. I tried ordering a new one but the design changed and it wouldn't fit. I ended up installing a no name 18 inch fan that I had, on a 3 row aluminium champion radiator. It draws 18A at startup, maintains 8A draw at full speed. It holds my heavy leather work gloves on the face of the radiator.
"Bigger tubes are better", I am unsure that is totally correct. When the total coolant fluid flow enters the rad, smaller tubes will better balance the flow across the full length of the header, better than bigger tubes. Also, the smaller diameter tubes will likely force more contact of the flowing fluid against the inside of the tubes, reducing tunneling in the tubes, giving better heat transfer. However, small tubes may block up sooner with dirt, corrosion products, and debris in the coolant circuit. Smaller tubes may also be higher overall velocity, causing increased erosion in the parent material of the tubes. Anyway, size the rad flow rate to the engine and coolant pump, and it should work fine.
Man very informative video, thanks for the info, but its making me second guess my recent purchase. I have a champion aluminum radiator not sure which one exactly, on a 1966 Mustang 289, and I bought a shroud and a spal puller model# 30100400 said it was rated at 1298Cfm. I believe its a 2 row radiator with 3/4" tubes. Does this sound like a good setup for my application?
Can you recommend a Spal fan, I have a 2010 v10 (6.8L) e450 in a motorhome, i have 3 rads (eng rad is 2 inches thich, second cooler is 1/2 inch, not sure what the 3rd cooler is for but it is approximately 2in thick), I have plenty of room between the fan and rad (around 6 inches)
Coincidentally I have the exact same SPAL fan model on my stock radiator ( 1965 Mustang 289v8) .it is rated at 1459 CFM. I am installing a Cold Case aluminum radiator that is about 1inch thicker ( 2 core each 1 1/4” wide) than the existing rad. I also have an AC cooler rad in front of the radiator. I don’t see any tech data on the expected CFM at different resistance levels on their site. Did you find the curve for this model?
Hi Sir the radiator electric cooling fans on AliExpress on one of the electric fan it is a 14" straight fan blades & has 1900 cfm & the RPM can go up 2500 revs do you think that this electric cooling fan would work for a Toyota 3.4v6 engine? Kind Regards Peter
I personally wouldn’t be buying fans from AliExpress. I only buy Spal because they publish enough information to judge what will work properly, and they provide a high quality product. As to the question will that fan work? Depends on the core thickness of the radiator, if you have AC, etc. Its hard to answer if it will “likely”work without more info.
great video man, what’s your IG? if you have one i’m going to do several more videos in regards to efans and my findings, your videos have been information packed and that’s something i always look for in videos, i def learned thing here that i’ll be mentioning in my next video!
@@mechtrician1 by the way in my last video i didn’t mean to say Spal fan sucked i meant to say Flex a lite haha they are the ones that make the lo boy puller i was taking about 😂
I have a 2004 chevy suburban and my clutch fan works well enough but sometimes during hot SoCal summers the AC is not half as cool as it should be, unless im on a highway moving at a consistently moderate to high speeds. I have been watching a lot of videos about upgrading to an Efan to solve my issue. Thanks for the informative video- this helps me have a better understanding of why and what Im trying to accomplish and everything that goes with it. 👍🏽
Thanks Mech! Agreed. If my approx. 2” thin SPAL puller efan doesn’t work well enough (REALLY tight fit), I’ll have to change to a pusher fan with a bigger motor. The front of my radiator has much more space.
Just check the curve. Pushers, the performance curve falls off faster than a puller. They work, but you want as big as you can get.
That was more technical stuff in one vid than I’ve ever seen since college!!! I’ll have to watch it a couple times to soak it all in!!!
SUBSCRIBED!!
Trying to run down a constant overheat issue on my SBC swapped Jeep YJ- with almost no results! Your info will help a TON! Alf ready picked up a Spal 16 low profile, and have been playing with thermostats trying to keep it cooler- but over time it’ll creep up to over 230*- and that’s at low speed around my neighborhood- but works perfect at idle….. I had a 160 thermostat, and have played with so many temp sensors to control fan on/ off- but no matter what sensor- once I start driving it they never turn off and temp never comes down, unless I stop and let it idle. Going to try a 180/ and a gutted thermostat with present fan sensor of 200/ 185 to see if that works, but after that it’s going to be a better radiator! It’s supposed to be a 3 core aluminum (Amazon) but doesn’t seem to help. Also it has no way to attach a fan shroud- so I bought one that I’m going to try metal taping on to see how much improvement it gives…… so you can see, I’ve been fighting this for a WHILE! Your info will be very helpful!!!!
I did also find blown head gaskets on both sides (after A LOT OF HEAD SCRATCHING- that only leaked between middle two cylinders on both sides- no oil water mix, or bubbles in radiator! So it made that hard to find) so did a head swap and new gaskets, but still runs hot under load…..
Getting down to the last few parts now after tons of money and effort over this!!!!!!!
Thank you! this video is amazing. I have a 1.25'' dual row aluminum radiator on my 67 mustang and I think I have a pretty good idea of how to choose my electric fan thanks to you.
I had an old flex a lite shrouded one piece fan go bad. I tried ordering a new one but the design changed and it wouldn't fit. I ended up installing a no name 18 inch fan that I had, on a 3 row aluminium champion radiator.
It draws 18A at startup, maintains 8A draw at full speed. It holds my heavy leather work gloves on the face of the radiator.
DeltaPAG publishes fan curves. But that's on brushless type fans.
"Bigger tubes are better", I am unsure that is totally correct. When the total coolant fluid flow enters the rad, smaller tubes will better balance the flow across the full length of the header, better than bigger tubes. Also, the smaller diameter tubes will likely force more contact of the flowing fluid against the inside of the tubes, reducing tunneling in the tubes, giving better heat transfer. However, small tubes may block up sooner with dirt, corrosion products, and debris in the coolant circuit. Smaller tubes may also be higher overall velocity, causing increased erosion in the parent material of the tubes. Anyway, size the rad flow rate to the engine and coolant pump, and it should work fine.
Man very informative video, thanks for the info, but its making me second guess my recent purchase. I have a champion aluminum radiator not sure which one exactly, on a 1966 Mustang 289, and I bought a shroud and a spal puller model# 30100400 said it was rated at 1298Cfm. I believe its a 2 row radiator with 3/4" tubes. Does this sound like a good setup for my application?
Can you recommend a Spal fan, I have a 2010 v10 (6.8L) e450 in a motorhome, i have 3 rads (eng rad is 2 inches thich, second cooler is 1/2 inch, not sure what the 3rd cooler is for but it is approximately 2in thick), I have plenty of room between the fan and rad (around 6 inches)
Coincidentally I have the exact same SPAL fan model on my stock radiator ( 1965 Mustang 289v8) .it is rated at 1459 CFM. I am installing a Cold Case aluminum radiator that is about 1inch thicker ( 2 core each 1 1/4” wide) than the existing rad. I also have an AC cooler rad in front of the radiator. I don’t see any tech data on the expected CFM at different resistance levels on their site. Did you find the curve for this model?
What’s the part number for the upper radiator hold downs that your using? They look really nice
They are from BeCool and they are quite pricey.
I found the spec sheet . Am guessing 7-10 static pressure??
Hi Sir the radiator electric cooling fans on AliExpress on one of the electric fan it is a 14" straight fan blades & has 1900 cfm & the RPM can go up 2500 revs do you think that this electric cooling fan would work for a Toyota 3.4v6 engine? Kind Regards Peter
I personally wouldn’t be buying fans from AliExpress. I only buy Spal because they publish enough information to judge what will work properly, and they provide a high quality product.
As to the question will that fan work? Depends on the core thickness of the radiator, if you have AC, etc. Its hard to answer if it will “likely”work without more info.
great video man, what’s your IG? if you have one
i’m going to do several more videos in regards to efans and my findings, your videos have been information packed and that’s something i always look for in videos, i def learned thing here that i’ll be mentioning in my next video!
Thanks man. Don't have an IG. I'm just a hobbyist in his garage doing this for fun.
@@mechtrician1 by the way in my last video i didn’t mean to say Spal fan sucked i meant to say Flex a lite haha they are the ones that make the lo boy puller i was taking about 😂