Very cool, turned out well. It's really a great feeling when things work with the first setting you try. Glad to hear you are going to have Brandy test at temperature to verify structural integrity. Might also want to have her make a casserole in it to verify that no issues were induced that would cause temperature gradients due to mass of material in the dish vs. the outside of the dish to cause cracking.
The engrave shouldn’t make that much change. The thickness of these aren’t exactly exact from the start. The Pyrex markings would make more of a difference
Thanks for the great video. I just tried it and am very pleased with my first attempt. I do notice a "burr" or two and was wondering if you do anything to polish them out?
As a newbie, I found the tutorial very informative and well presented. Two questions for you, though. Firstly, I have a 20 W diode, am I correct in believing that I need to up the power, decrease the speed to get a similar effect? Secondly, How do I configure my laser to shoot down incoming ICBMs? Asking for a friend.
You will probably need a bit more time for the laser to work (Slower speed). I have done similar with a 10 watt.. It would require a series of really expensive lenses….lol
Just started doing glass so this timing was great! I do use chalk spray, specifically Montana brand, which does leave it more white. Have you had issues with the 300 lpcm loosing the frosted look? I had to drop to 140 lpcm to keep it from overheating the glass it appeared. Hadn't thought of doing those type of dishes, have done some small cutting boards, pilsner glasses, wine flutes, and regular drink glasses. Love the video , and find them super helpful.
In the past, I have found the overlapping lpi makes for a more even etch. I haven’t experimented with this particular item. I liked the first results… lol
That pie plate I showed you I made one friend at work she has been using it over a year just fine glass plates from dollar tree are a good anniversary gift but settings will be different than Pyrex looks nice
It is setting dependent. You have to run a little hotter and slower to cure the cermark, then burn it off in one pass. LPI is also needed to make the lines overlap.
How do you do it? As soon as I think of a question “how would you do this?” You come up with a cool answer. Thank you buddy. Thank Brandy for me, please?
Great Video ! You make some very interesting things. I enjoy watching. I dabble in woodworking (bandsaw boxes, end table, scrollsaw names) and give them as gifts to family and friends. I have thought of selling some things I've made but not sure it's legal. If you use somebody else design and change it some, is it legal to sell ? Thanks, keep the videos coming !
You can use rub-n-buff to color the etching. Simply rub it on and buff off. I'm a glass artisan, shouldn't have any issues with heat as you're not etching deep. I would NOT use tempered glass, as it has a skin and if that is compromised it will shatter
Hello friend, I have two questions: 1) Would this work on any other flat glass? 2) What would the (approximate) settings be for a xTOOL D1 10W laser? Thanks for the videos, which are very useful.
Out of focus, it basically melts a really thin layer of the glass. Getting it too hot, can cause fracturing in thin glass. As soon as the marking spray is vaporized, the transparent material no longer absorbs heat from the beam. Key is the layer of cermark and focus.
@@TheClackShack just curious the benefits or downside of each. I'd imagine a laser would definitely be faster, but I think a drag might be able to do something a bit uneven or material laser couldn't? IDK.
Can you help me find a cradle for glasses and cups. I have 4240 laser. I watch you all the time and trust you. I don't want to make a mistake buying. Thank you sir
I plan too but I suspect they will be fine. I do not etch them deep enough to hurt. I have engraved other glass with good results. Wine glasses are the only issue I have seen.
Realize that there are at least two types of Pyrex. It looks like you have “pyrex” which is different than “PYREX” (case matters). I suspect that the results would be different with PYREX since it is more resistant to heat hence oven safe.
thank you for this tutorial - I think when I get some spare time I will give it a go. I have a question for you - the laser enclosure off your left shoulder did you make that or purchase it. If you purchased it would you mind disclosing where you got it from, secondly if you made it do you have a video of it. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated. I have an atomstack A20Pro
@@TheClackShack oh okay, it looks very similar to the Creality Falcon 2 pro, I assume you have a review of that laser on your channel, I'll have to check it out at some point
Awesome video buddy, do you worry about running at 100% power at all? Almost all YTs I see say that anything over 70 will do decent dmg to the machine, essentially ending the lifespan of the laser much faster. Awesome job, and I may make my own laser box similar to yours in that it has a lift :)
The lifespan of the diodes are over 10,000 hours. No need for it to out live me, time is money. I can make enough money to replace it in the time wasted running 70 percent. 70 percent is about 30 percent slower.
at first I was like 80mm/sec? That is super slow... but I am used to mm/min, so that comes through as 480 mm/min, which is still slow but sounds correct for glass.
What concerns me is that pyrex is a silicon borate not regular glass. Also the lower case pyrex is not Grandma's PYREX. It's a lower quality Chinesium glass
well my first attempt did NOT work.. the pyrex shattered.. Using my Longer 40watt killed it... 80s and 90 p was not the correct combination ... Round 2.....
Great way to make sure you get your dish back from the work or family party.
Great video!
I thought so too..
Very cool, turned out well. It's really a great feeling when things work with the first setting you try. Glad to hear you are going to have Brandy test at temperature to verify structural integrity. Might also want to have her make a casserole in it to verify that no issues were induced that would cause temperature gradients due to mass of material in the dish vs. the outside of the dish to cause cracking.
The engrave shouldn’t make that much change. The thickness of these aren’t exactly exact from the start. The Pyrex markings would make more of a difference
I used to sand blast glass from Denmark which had a blue tint to it. Which would come out beautiful! Great video, thanks!!!
Cool, very welcome
Thanks for the great video. I just tried it and am very pleased with my first attempt. I do notice a "burr" or two and was wondering if you do anything to polish them out?
I didn’t have any issues with mine..
Wow, looks great! You are right about Cermark being pricey. 😮 Great Idea. (as always). Have a Great day.
It is worth it to me though.. very welcome
i saw the roly on this one and was hoping you were going to do it on your lasermatic cuz that's what I have... but oh well.
Process is the same, both are blue diodes operated with lightburn.
As a newbie, I found the tutorial very informative and well presented. Two questions for you, though. Firstly, I have a 20 W diode, am I correct in believing that I need to up the power, decrease the speed to get a similar effect? Secondly, How do I configure my laser to shoot down incoming ICBMs? Asking for a friend.
You will probably need a bit more time for the laser to work (Slower speed). I have done similar with a 10 watt..
It would require a series of really expensive lenses….lol
I have used Cermark on glass for black etch
It works well with the right settings..
What a great idea! Thanks for this! I'd say more, but I have to do a little shopping!
Thanks, have fun
Just started doing glass so this timing was great! I do use chalk spray, specifically Montana brand, which does leave it more white. Have you had issues with the 300 lpcm loosing the frosted look? I had to drop to 140 lpcm to keep it from overheating the glass it appeared. Hadn't thought of doing those type of dishes, have done some small cutting boards, pilsner glasses, wine flutes, and regular drink glasses. Love the video , and find them super helpful.
In the past, I have found the overlapping lpi makes for a more even etch. I haven’t experimented with this particular item. I liked the first results… lol
That pie plate I showed you I made one friend at work she has been using it over a year just fine glass plates from dollar tree are a good anniversary gift but settings will be different than Pyrex looks nice
Yea, if you get it right, the engrave is really just on the surface.
Looks like a great item to put Thanksgiving leftovers in to send home with guests
Yea… or home made goodie gifts.. Thanks
I’ve done the casseroles dish with cermark, mine has always engraved in black. I’ve got a 10wat laser. How do I get the frosted look using cermark ?
It is setting dependent. You have to run a little hotter and slower to cure the cermark, then burn it off in one pass. LPI is also needed to make the lines overlap.
How do you do it? As soon as I think of a question “how would you do this?” You come up with a cool answer. Thank you buddy. Thank Brandy for me, please?
I am always expanding my capabilities…lol
Hi! And thank you for a great video. Any chance you could do a similar video with your xTool S1 laser?
I have a video using mirrors on the S1
Wow love it. Thanks for more great info. I have been wanting to know the settings for glass in the xtool 40w.
Should be similar. The layer of marking spray is key also
Great video. Never heard of that product. Can't wait to try it out!
Thanks, have fun
Great Video ! You make some very interesting things. I enjoy watching. I dabble in woodworking (bandsaw boxes, end table, scrollsaw names) and give them as gifts to family and friends. I have thought of selling some things I've made but not sure it's legal. If you use somebody else design and change it some, is it legal to sell ? Thanks, keep the videos coming !
As long as you put your spin on it. Lots of woodworking projects aren't patented anyway.
You can use rub-n-buff to color the etching. Simply rub it on and buff off. I'm a glass artisan, shouldn't have any issues with heat as you're not etching deep.
I would NOT use tempered glass, as it has a skin and if that is compromised it will shatter
Yea, I have found that some expensive wine glasses do not like being laser engraved… yea, the melted layer is very thin.
I also have an x40 Max without the shroud. Do you have the files available for the focusing sticks?
I have the files but don’t think it released them. Email me and I will see what so can dig up.
Have you tried sign makers masking tape? Just curious as I haven’t tried glass yet!
No, I haven’t.
Do you have a video on how you made the device that lower and raises the bed of you laser? Thank and nice video
th-cam.com/video/mN4qYZ4hkqE/w-d-xo.html
Another great video and idea. Thanks as I’m learning so much on my laser journey.
Thanks, glad you like it
Another great idea! Thanks!!
You are so welcome!
Hello friend, I have two questions:
1) Would this work on any other flat glass?
2) What would the (approximate) settings be for a xTOOL D1 10W laser?
Thanks for the videos, which are very useful.
Glass all works similar. Settings vary from material to material
@@TheClackShack Ok, I asked the question about the settings for glass.
@@Dancopymus slow and hot, testing is best
@@TheClackShack Tks
How do you get the finished image so light almost white. I've tried multiple different paints and the end result is always dark almost black
If you get the glass too hot, it can melt and bind with the paint.
When you used the marking spray did you let it dry between coats?
Yes. With cermark, it only takes a couple minutes
Nice one Clack👍
I have a question. Does a laser micro crack the glass or does it quickly heap it up to melting point?
Out of focus, it basically melts a really thin layer of the glass. Getting it too hot, can cause fracturing in thin glass. As soon as the marking spray is vaporized, the transparent material no longer absorbs heat from the beam. Key is the layer of cermark and focus.
Very cool! Thanks for sharing!
Have you ever tried engraving glass (or anything else) using a drag engraver on your CNC?
No, I haven't used a drag
@@TheClackShack just curious the benefits or downside of each.
I'd imagine a laser would definitely be faster, but I think a drag might be able to do something a bit uneven or material laser couldn't? IDK.
Do you have a vid going over the camera set up with the d1 pro extension?
If you use lightburn, the process is the same for all machines.
@@TheClackShack I see, you just need to have it high enough of course. Thanks!
Can you help me find a cradle for glasses and cups. I have 4240 laser. I watch you all the time and trust you. I don't want to make a mistake buying. Thank you sir
I am not familiar with that machine.
@@TheClackShack ok thank you. Just get well soon
Is there a reason why you didn’t engrave it on the inside or is it so the utensils it won’t scratch the inside
Yes, just in case tiny pieces of the engrave come off, they don’t end up in the food.
@@TheClackShack thanks for responding
Results from the oven test?
So far, so good
Do you think a 5 watt laser would work?
With the right settings, yes. It will be much slower though.
Think you could do this with a 10 watt laser?
Yes, with the right settings.
Results of the oven test?
I plan too but I suspect they will be fine. I do not etch them deep enough to hurt. I have engraved other glass with good results. Wine glasses are the only issue I have seen.
Realize that there are at least two types of Pyrex. It looks like you have “pyrex” which is different than “PYREX” (case matters). I suspect that the results would be different with PYREX since it is more resistant to heat hence oven safe.
Yep, just needed glass for this job. Found settings for it. I provided a link for the exact item, not speaking to all materials, of course.
Great, now my Mom is going to want these too! ;p
You should make her one… lol
thank you for this tutorial - I think when I get some spare time I will give it a go. I have a question for you - the laser enclosure off your left shoulder did you make that or purchase it. If you purchased it would you mind disclosing where you got it from, secondly if you made it do you have a video of it. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated. I have an atomstack A20Pro
I believe that is the Creality Falcon 2 pro, the enclosure is part of the laser
If you get the Atomstack B1 or the Ikeir E2 that should work for you
Not sure which one you are talking about but the only enclosed machine in the video should have been the Roly MK2
@@TheClackShack I think he is referring to the one with the completely orange enclosure to your left, that would be the right side of the screen
@@LaserHuset that’s the Riky MK2
@@TheClackShack oh okay, it looks very similar to the Creality Falcon 2 pro, I assume you have a review of that laser on your channel, I'll have to check it out at some point
Awesome video buddy, do you worry about running at 100% power at all? Almost all YTs I see say that anything over 70 will do decent dmg to the machine, essentially ending the lifespan of the laser much faster. Awesome job, and I may make my own laser box similar to yours in that it has a lift :)
The lifespan of the diodes are over 10,000 hours. No need for it to out live me, time is money. I can make enough money to replace it in the time wasted running 70 percent. 70 percent is about 30 percent slower.
@@TheClackShack Awesome brother, that's what I was thinking as well. Glad to get that same perspective. Thank you for the reply!
at first I was like 80mm/sec? That is super slow... but I am used to mm/min, so that comes through as 480 mm/min, which is still slow but sounds correct for glass.
It works.. Glass is tough
is it oven safe?
Is the same as it was before.
What concerns me is that pyrex is a silicon borate not regular glass. Also the lower case pyrex is not Grandma's PYREX. It's a lower quality Chinesium glass
It still works pretty well when done correctly.
well my first attempt did NOT work.. the pyrex shattered.. Using my Longer 40watt killed it... 80s and 90 p was not the correct combination ... Round 2.....
Sounds like too hot.. Bring it out of focus.
@@TheClackShack i pulled it up a little more and increased the speed to 2000 so far so good will send a pic when done ..
@@TheClackShack ok... changed the settings to 2000s & 80p... and it turned out GREAT... You are the man ... ill send a pic to u on FB..
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎
Thanks..