Thats the same one I have at work. Im an aircraft electrician/avionics technician. For simple resistance or continuity checks that 101 is perfect. If I need more precise measurements I use the calibrated company multimeter which a fluke as well.
I honestly hate these videos for the sole reason that all the products you push are from Amazon. Fuck Amazon, Fuck Jeff Bezos, and shame on you Adam for continuing to support one of the most despicable pieces of shit on the planet.
Awesome tip! Over the years I tried many multimeter brands including some expensive german made ones and other US brands.. Flukes have earned my trust, good instruments that work reliably and accurately year after year just as you described. If you think a faster continuity would help you some series are faster responding.. like the 83/85/87 models and the cheaper but equally good 175/177/179 models. Stay safe!
I've been a mechanic for a few years now and a multi meter is an absolute necessity. I still use my fathers from God know how long ago he purchased it. PS: your wood working has inspired t ed me to get a shop together and start producing my own line of custom cat scratcher/trees. Thanks for being the Adam we have always know and will always love.
I know I'm a computer engineer, I went through 4 years of the stuff. I work on tube radios and amps and build my own electronics. ...but I still call it beep mode.
Being very much a novice in electronics myself (far more than you, trust me) I like getting advice from someone who’s still figured out some stuff yet knows what it’s like to not be confident in this stuff. Experts often give too complex advice (unless they are good in pedagogy), but non-experts can often give really good advice to novices. So thannk you!
Adam, your description of your knowledge and understanding of electronics matches mine perfectly! Also, your description of using the continuity function just clicked for me. I've owned the same Fluke 77 for over 14 years and pretty much all I knew how to use it for was to check something dead.
Really?... As an automotive technician, we were always told that continuity is crap. Voltage can tell you 95% of things if you know how/where to test - and actual resistance testing is much more valuable than basic continuity testing. You can have 'good' contunuity, but the resistance could be way out of specification.
@@mommaduck79 Well, you can test for continuity really, really fast and then do the resistance testif you're interested in exact readings. I often use continuity testing when I solder wires like audio xlr, dms, usb and so on - just to check that I didn't mess up. I usually don't need exact resistance readings, I just want to know if I soldered the right wires to the correct pins.
This was one of my favorite toys to play with in my dad’s shop as a little kid. Still have it. Still works. Still use it regularly. I have always had fantastic experiences with fluke products, even now that I’m in industry.
Hey Adam I just want to say no matter what you post I’m always excited and look forward to your videos daily. I get a lot of my inspiration and ideas from watching your one day build, and tech tips. If I had a wish, it would be to one day meet you and spend the day building something with you. I’m a combination pipe welder and I can show you some tips with Tig, mig, Stick, and flux core if you want any. Stay safe Adam and keep these videos coming!
Recently my right earcup of my headphone died. So I did what every responsible man does and bought a multimeter to check if my right ear speaker gets current. Then I bought a solder kit. In total i spend 85 euro to fix 90 euro headphone
Nice. 6 days ago my cheap laser-level died, so, already owning a Mastech M92A multimeter, I opened up the laser-level to find the ridiculous excuse-for-a-switch has died and can't be replaced/fixed. I cannibilized the laser diode and the rest of the innards, ditched the case and wired in a switch from an old DVD player so now I have a nifty little laser pointer instead. I hope you get lot's of use out of your two new buys (while listening to your tunes of course)
Realistically most my like that repairs are mostly about the enjoyment and satisfaction of the process rather than the money saved. Especially if you factor in the time it takes.
@@cinialvespow1054 It is very good for low voltages and currents, albeit is it very slow and that can be annoying for conductivity measures, but when it gets it, it's bang on.
I have an old Fluke 77 as well and concur. Rock solid device. I am not an electronics guy either, but still use it regularly. Recently used it on CSST gas line to make sure it grounded properly to dissipate static. Multimeter is one of those tools that anyone who fixes things themselves should have in the toolbox.
I've got one of those Fluke 77 multimeters and I think I've changed battery in it twice in almost 30 years. For being so old they are amazingly battery efficient, not to mention built like a tank. And yes, I still use it. My first mutimeters were analogue and though they were just fine when new they did tend to break easily, especially when someone switched them to the wrong measurement scale and blew the coil winding. Happened twice as my father borrowed them to check something. He also killed at least three digital multimeters, all being the cheapest he could find so it wasn't really a big loss, but the Fluke survived even him. Now while I would be happy to recommend a Fluke for anyone who is looking for a multimeter I really don't think most people need to go that high. For most people the really cheap ones will work perfectly well, as long as you are not going to work with mains power at least. In the cheap ones they tend to cheap out on things like electrical isolation in addition to not having much in the way of circuit protection. While the later can kill the multimeter the former can bite you if you are unlucky. But if all you do is work on low voltage equipment or electronics there isn't really much of a risk. I remember seeing reviews of cheap multimeters on the EEVBlog channel here on YT. These could be worth looking up as there were some crap but also some that was surprisingly decent for the price. Somewhat surprisingly the accuracy of even the really cheap ones he tested was fine, even if the rest of it was a steaming pile...
I was an electronics technician on a nuclear submarine, and we used Fluke multimeters exclusively. We used the Fluke 87. It was a great piece of gear. Never bought one for myself because of the price point. Great suggestion, I will pick one of these up for sure.
Fluke rocks! I have 5 or 6 of their instruments myself. When working with the multimeter leads, EVERY time you turn it on regardless of what mode you are going to use it in, start in Continuity mode, and touch the leads together to verify they are good and connected to the meter itself, then switch to the mode you want to use. No point in testing for voltage or anything else if the leads aren’t quite plugged in or the wires are damaged, and this happens very easily. Get in the habit of doing a quick continuity check EACH time before use. This can save lots of time in going down the wrong path when your meter gives bad readings due to a bad connection or damaged leads.
Used several Fluke tools as an ISP technician. Even their specialist stuff like low-end tone generators (for pulsing a signal down a line so you can tell which one is your service, even miles away) can do things like detect continuity or the presence of 35-52V DC.
A friend of mine has a Fluke 115. I've seen him drop it countless times. I've seen him actually take a few jolts with it. It's almost a 15 year old meter, and still works like it was brand new. Because of seeing his take years of abuse and still work perfectly, I ended up buying my own Fluke 117 2 years ago. Worth every penny of that $240.
The UNI-T UT210E has been my favorite budget multimeter. It has been extremely robust and does everything that the Fluke in the video can do but has a few extra features. NCV (non contact voltage) detection. You can put it near live wires and it will alert you. The clamp not only works for AC current but also DC current, which is something not many DC clamp meters have. You can clamp it around a car battery cable and see what is going in/out of the battery. This has been a very important tool for my off-grid solar setup.
I'd have to say UNI-T are one the best brand of budged/ clone meters out there. I've had a $30 meter from them for about 10 years now and it works great.
Be careful with UNI-T stuff, not all of their multi-meter models are of the same quality in terms of safety and accuracy. That said, you can't go wrong with a UT139C for example
@carl schiel you're inspiring me to get one (i need DC clamp current measurement), and i'm wondering : why did you go with UT210E when the UT210D seems better in every aspect for the same price ? (twice the current range, temperature and frequency measures etc...) Only pro i could find is that it has a VFC low pass filter, i don't know what that is used for
@@InformatrIIcks The UT210D can measure 20A/ 200A on AC and DC, no 2A scale It can also measure temperatur and frequency The UT210E can measure 2A/20A/100A on AC and DC no Temp or frequency. Both meters can measure true RMS up to 2 kHz the VFC limits this to 400Hz. VFC is useful if you probe the output voltage of a variable frequency drive.
I'm an electronic technician and I love your enthusiasm, remind me my old days when I first have my digital multimeter. Then many years after I finally got my first Fluke, ohh!! It was heaven!!! Love your reaction. Makes me want to go and take a look to my Fluke, 16 years and I still love it.
I have a Radio Shack analog multimeter my dad bought me in 1978. Still works well and I used it until about a year ago when I finally bought a digital MM.
Thanks for the shout-out Adam! Along with Fluke Tools and Condition-Monitoring Sensors, the "Accelix" platform also includes eMaint CMMS to help make sense of all that captured data. [full disclosure - I'm an eMaint AE, and a huge Adam Savage fan]
@@mgytusr yeah, I have a Brymen BM257 at home for my main multimeter Might pick up an AN8008 for my car, I've been meaning to fill out my car toolkit a bit.
I think Adam argument mostly comes from his experience with its longevity. This is something even if the performance of the an8008 is great, probably won't be as long. Different people have difference criteria. Personally I use an AN870 which is fine for my needs but I doubt it will still work after 2 decades.
@@morgan98801 ..and spare parts! I'm sure Adam can get a batter cover or a test lead socket when he need. Try that with cheap meters... Sadly fluke has gone where all the great test gear makers have gone. They're now part of another company that's part of another company and so on. All of which is run only with quarterly earnings and bonuses before their eyes. That's why I trust Dave Jones. He has a passion for what he sells!
You are holding my Fluke meter I purchased mine a long long time ago it is the best meter ever, I am now 78 and it is still working, Thanks, Adam, Loved you in MythBusters, used to watch you each week in the UK
I’ve been working on electronics since I was a wee lad, (30+ years) I have tons of test instruments, meters, scopes etc... I found a Fluke 110 in the trash with a broken knob about 5 years ago. I fixed the knob and now I use it almost 95% of the time and I use it daily.
Adam, I love that there is so much more to you than the myth busters shows I watched as a kid. I'm a biological scientist now, but I am a post doc in an electrical engineering and computer science lab. We are creating diagnostic devices based on how much the width of a protein changes the capacitance on an electrode that I designed, then made the system to take the measurement. I wanted to let you know, it's people like you who led me to the path of doing what I do now. Thank you man.
I was just gifted a FLUKE MD88 with all the components in the kit, so happy! first FLUKE I have ever owned as I could never want to spend the money, but for $46 currently as typing, that little FLUKE is so adorable to have as a pocket carry
I still have and use my first multi-meter. It was a $10 (actually $9.98) kit from Radio Shack I bought in the early 70's. All parts included and it took me less than hour to solder the components to the board and assemble. Through the years I had to replace the occasional capacitor or resistor but it still works wonderfully. For some reason I prefer the analog meter because when the voltage is varying you get a better visual representation of the average.
I am an Industrial Mechanic and own a lot of Fluke, and I have that 101 meter. Simple, great range, Cat III, fits in your bag and cheep. I bought two more, one for the house and one for the RV. It does not measure Amps, but most people will never need to do that and it would be safer to do that with a clamp meter anyway.
yes sir, I always borrowed from my senior at my workplace, but I think it was model 17+ which is way too expensive for me. I love continuity and to check whether the soldering job that I did works fine. But now I ordered this exact model 101 last week and will arrive it in 2-3 weeks. I cannot wait to have it!
Love the beep, but when your in a car take care to never test the air bag circuits. The beep works by supplying voltage, poo will come out when your airbag deploys and you wont hear the beep. Also take care with electronic circuits, you can damage them by running continuity tests.
I would be more worried about static electricity from my own body than the voltage generated by a fluke meter running a continuity check. But yeah, be careful with air bag circuits.
The proper way to run a continuity test is always have whatever wire you are checking disconected at both ends for this reason. If it is still hooked up you can damage other componets or get a faulty reading from interference.
Hi Adam. I have been sitting on my old radio for months now. I recapped it, working great, and when I finally soldered back on the grounding shield, dead silence. Removing it didn't work, and no amount of reflowing the solder joints helped. It was dead as a door nail. Today I finally bit the bullet and took your recommendation of the Fluke-101. I always avoided fluke because of their price, but watching this and seeing your response to their entry level one has changed my mind. I will be testing the diodes and continuity of every single component because by God I will get this radio running. I have owned it since 2017 and picked it up for 20gbp in Leicester. Now I live in the USA, of course I brought it with me! But it began fading out on FM so it was due a capacitor change, which is what begun this whole mess. It's a Sony ICF-5500M and it's my pride n joy. Thanks for the recommendation. Wish me luck :)
I remember frying my dad's mutlimeter with a sparkgenerator for an old motorcycle. I wanted to know how high of a voltage the spark was... Turns out: very. The display transformed into a random number generator.
Might be a little late for that info, but, the Fluke's I've used, and I don't know the model right now, have a feature where you can switch from a live measuring of the voltage, to where it holds the highest measured value
@@ThePeanuts1000 An expensive multimeter may survive trying to measure the voltage on a spark plug, but it's not likely that the measurement will be accurate. A general purpose multimeter range usually stop at about 1000V, and sparks may require 25000V, or even 60KV on some modern cars. Using a multimeter this way is NOT safe. The pulse is also very brief, and regular multimeters may not be fast enough to produce an accurate measurement even if connected through a high voltage probe designed for the purpose (they're typically used with an oscilloscope).
@@ThePeanuts1000 you'd kill a lot of multimeters with such high transients. Imagine the spark and the gap it has and arcs over the gap. That arc (and the energy of) has to suppressed/dissipated in the meter. The best general purpose DMM might survive =but= not measure, transients like 12-14kV. Flip note fluke101 has good input protection, yet by no means it should be tested on spark plugs.
Haha, noob, you need an O-scope and some training! Also, don't forget to test at operating temperature. I'm sure there are a few gear heads that adjust their spark gap with an o-scope and tune everything. Probably not a task taken lightly
@@ge48421 @stanimir ah ok, sorry, guess I was a bit out of my depth there, never tried measuring spark plugs, nor am I in any way into cars, didn't expect spark plugs to need that high voltage. Learned something new then :D
I actually just bought one of these the other day. In the military and in the electronics field, I've always used Fluke and I don't plan on ever changing. Good choice, sir!
I used a Fluke 8 Automotive from the late 80s. Had the same low price as your Fluke 101 because it basically had the two features I used, ohms (audible continuity) and DC voltage. I still have it and it still works. The test lead wires were the weak point. They got melted a lot on hot engine parts and the wire would break inside the insulation from repeated flexing with use. Real Fluke replacement leads were expensive but a must have due to their quality compared to cheap knockoffs.
I have a Fluke 27 and love it. Your enthusiasm mirrors mine as this multimeter has solved countless problems over the years. Versatile and to be quite frank, I'm still discovering some of its functions. Thanks for the content!
What sold me on Fluke meter was during an automotive training session done by a fluke dealer he took a model 78 which is like yours but an automotive collision and threw it against the back wall when the class which was steel-reinforced concrete about a 20-foot throw and the meter still works just fine
I have the same two meters. The 77 is military issue in the u.k and is available surplus for £30.00 sterling, is a very capable unit and built like a tank. My only issue with the 101 was a broken battery clip which i bodged with a paper clip and a dab of glue. I am not an expert by any means but for every day basic use, i couldn't wish for a finer duo. I utterly agree with your comments and support the brand 100%. Keep up the great work Adam !! All the best from the U.K !!!
Inherit this one from my Grandmother actually, my daily driver is a cheap one that i got from a kit but every time I find the RSDMM on my storage , I turn it on just to see if it works and....still does!
My ancient Radio Shack DMM was still going strong when I blew the ammeter fuse (200 mA max, sheesh!). I never bothered to get another fuse for it because by then I had several other meters that weren't as big and clunky.
I'll never understand Adam saying he's a hack in anything. Super passionate, super humble, and has done so much that I could only dream of achieving any of his former gigs.
Fluke makes some awesome Multimeters, with a wide range of different features. But they are still quite expensive though. I've had mine for close to 25 years and it still works as good as the day I bought it and it can take Temp and RPM readings as well as traditional multimeter functions. Which is nice even though I cannot say I've never actually need to use the Temp or RPM settings. But it's nice to have that ability. Even at $50 I wouldn't recommend one as an entry level or even to a hobbyist level but, if you're using as part of your job I would. Bc nothing looks more unprofessional than pulling out a Janky Homeless Despot, Crapsman, Hazard Fraught or an old Amazon Special brand Multimeter on the job site. Not to mention you also get a little more piece of mind with a Fluke or "GreenLee" knowing that you don't have to worry about getting put on your arse or even killed bc of being cheaply designed and manufactured.
Or . . . You could dress professionally and produce quality work while using whatever tools get the job done. Worked well enough to get requested by name for rush travel contracts by multi-national customers, even over the direct contractor's own techs. My toolkit ranges from Greenlee and Klein to Harbor Freight brands to hand-bodged . . . _stuff._ It gets the job done, and done right.
My grandparents lived in Los Altos Hills for forty years, and we took the 280 exit at Foothill College on Moody Rd. every time we went to visit. Thanks for that bit of nostalgia. I actually played in David Packard’s apricot orchard as a kid, since my grandparents lived adjacent to it. That area is totally different now.
VERY TRUE! I was checking a system on a Jet that wasn't working. After researching the schematics we started shooting wires end to end with a 50 foot test lead from the spine of the aircraft to the nose. First 3 wires shoot open. WTF? Test the test lead and it was OPEN/broken. We didn't check it first like we all know we should. Fixed the test lead and shot wires. first 3 wires shoot open again! Ultimately ended up opening up a panel with 75 screws holding it on and found the cannon plug disconnected at the bulkhead. it looked like it was connected until I touched it and it flopped. The jet just came back from Depot maintenance and must have had the right wing changed and they didn't check everything properly.
Hey Adam. I'm an female Electrician Apprentice from Germany. I'm 30 years old and im pretty impressed with Fluke's Multimeter. I've got the T6-1000 and this tool is super handy. It's so small and i love to see that even across the ocean the love for great electronics is universal. So trank you for sharing this :-)
I got my Fluke77 back in college in 1990/91. I still love that meter. Same as yours. It just runs and works. Ive never once thought that if I pulled it out and turned it on, it might not work. Bonus tool tip, Production Assistants suck!
Fun fact. In my school when we work with multimeters, everyone needs to turn off the beeping when we are measuring continuity. The teacher is going crazy when we beep too much.
@@ketsuekikumori9145 great idea for in one of the fun edits here on @tested ! Bleeping away curse words with a small picture in picture Adam in the corner connecting the wires of the multimeter.
Working on Hotel and Convention Center 208v 400A drops. I trust my life to my Fluke. Definitely a must for anyone dealing with electricity on a day-to-day basis.
I'm an electrical engineer, did a lot of hands-on (almost electrician) stuff at my last job. I was given $x to buy a new multimeter (DMM, digital multimeter is a common term) and ended up spending the full amount on a Greenlee that was the equivalent of a Fluke that cost about 4x as much. It worked perfectly the entire time I had it, so there's definitely a "Fluke tax" going on. For the average Joe Blow who doesn't need *perfect* readings a super-cheap unit can do the job. Princess Auto here in Canada usually has a couple dirt cheap units. My only tips are: 1. avoid the ones that use 9V batteries, they're a pain in the ass to replace from a cost perspective; 2. avoid anything that does continuity on the CURRENT SENSING probe (denoted by a mA/Ω near where you plug in the lead, usually). This makes it super easy to burn stuff out when you're just trying to check if it works. Continuity should be on your high impedance input, usually where you plug in for testing voltage. edit note: ones that have an input that say something like "10ADC" and another that say V/mA/Ω are what you want. Not just V and mA/Ω. Best would be three separate A, mA, and VΩ inputs. tl;dr don't buy the cheapest model from Princess Auto or Harbor Freight, pick the one up from it.
Very good tips adam, I have to agree audible continuity is the most valuable part of a good multimeter. Has to be by far the most selection use. Next would have to be the d/c amperage selection.
I used a Fluke 77 for many years in my job as a maintenance technician and currently own and use a Fluke 17B+ in my retired hobby workshop. They make great meters.
I have that exact same Fluke meter. Passed down from my Dad who died in 2004, he must have had it 15 years before that. Still works like new to this day.
Tip: The good meter stays in the shop. The Cheepie meter goes to the job site. If the cheapy on finds another "home" oh well. So never take the Expensive Meter to a job site unless you got lots of "pocket change".
@@aphenioxPDWtechnology I can attest to this. Guys who were working on a job with us told us they weren't allowed to use the Klein tools multi meter anymore because one of them melted while trying to use it. Safety should be the biggest priority here
@@aphenioxPDWtechnology It is one of the first things I learned. The problem with some of the job sites is some of the workers just decide that "Your Meter" is the one that They want.
The speed of continuity beeps is a surprisingly variable quality in multimeters. That one sounds nice and quick. If it's slow or inconsistent, (especially if you're trying to diagnose or reverse something) you end up never trusting your observations
rpavlik1 - totally agree , fluke tunes their continuity beepers to trigger on the slightest touch to sound loud and to seeming hold for a split second too so it’s detects the slightest breaks , I’ve had a fluke 10 ( it was an entry level metre when I bought it ) for 30 years and the only issue I had was that it’s switch broke and it was fixed by fluke no questions asked.
I own the very same small Fluke multi meter, for home use/garage/shop is perfect. Small enough, easy to read and continuity sound definitely is the great feature.
I got my Fluke 77 brand new in 1997 as part of my technicians toolkit. I was fortunate enough to have been able to buy that toolkit when I left the company and got it at a bargain price. My Fluke has served me well and I can also say I have only installed new batteries about 4 times. I do also have a budget meter for the rough work. Recently I was issued with a brand new Fluke 77 at my new company. Works just as well and I love the bigger screen, but the modern testleads are too hard and cheap compared to my original.
My favorite one day build so far, fluke multimeters are amazing, I use fluke 117 volt alert for electrical and it work flawlessly every time and has never once let me down, a bit costly but worth it for a meter that will last for many decades if not the rest of my life.
I love how Adam is recommending literally the best multimeter you can get. I'm absolutely a fluke fan too.. But then he goes into using it like a cheap multimeter, and you realize that he would have gotten by with a free harbor freight meter and not had any issue. He doesn't actually need the accuracy of a fluke, he can use anything to get continuity... Or the rough voltage he needs. Lol
I had one of those "free with any purchase" Harbor Freight multimeters. I mostly used it as a battery tester. It started "freaking out" and I determined the PCB had cracked where you insert the probes. I probably could have soldered it back together, but...meh.
@@ReverendTed Yeah. The quality is really hit and miss because of the non-existent quality control. I have a couple harbor freight ones that lasted over 15 years now, and I've also gotten ones that broke within the first month. However I really like them because like most voltmeters, they are all reasonably accurate, but they are not all calibrated properly. But what you can do is take your fluke out of its nice cabinet, open up the harbor freight meter and use the fluke to calibrate the harbor freight meter. It only takes 2 minutes but then you put your fluke away safely with your other high end electronics tools, and you chuck your harbor freight meter into the top of a toolbox in the garage, or workbench, or maybe keep one in a tool bag for a car... Etc. Now you have a multimeter that can be tossed around, lended, etc and you don't have to worry about it. That said if I was on national TV, I would probably not want to be seen using the red harbor freight meter either. We all see the yellow, so we all know what meter he's using.
Yes. But the Fluke is better than the cheepy meter in regards to it's safety compared to the less expensive meters. If you are measuring voltages over 50v you need a meter you can count on not to blow up in your hand and in that respect the Flukes outperform the others hands down. The new Flukes today are much more forgiving when the meter is set to resistance and stuck in the wall socket by accident.
It's not always about accuracy but how well does the meter work. If you drop it one time is it now junk? Does the the autorange work well or is it slow. Does the diode check work correctly or is it useless? Does the meter have cat III or IV rating and is it save to use on line voltage? Does it eat batteries? Does it have any features like Min and Max, capacitance reading or temperature measurement settings? Sometimes you don't even need a meter just a lightbulb with a couple of wires soldered on to it.
My father has the same meter. He's been using it for over 30 years as well! It was a staple of my house as my dad DIY'd everything and all the wiring in the house. Just bought a house. Should get one myself!
I went from a 1st gen Fluke 77 that was handed down from my Dad to a Fluke 101 I got when the battery leads got worn out from the 77 after 40+ years, and now I’m using an 87V that I got once I saved up the money. Fluke makes a great meter that’s worth the price based purely on dependability and reliability.
Found a Fluke 87v on eBay that appeared brand new but claimed didn't work. Bought it for $150ish and as I suspected all it needed was a new fuse. I'm the same age as Adam and this thing will outlive us both. Outstanding product from an equally outstanding company.
Foothill College!!!! Oh yeah! Two BIG thumbs up for them: 1) Andy Fraknoi and SV Astronomy Lecture Series. Man, oh man, what a wonderful program! 2) Dr. Seefeld's European work abroad program in the 80's. Thanks to them, I experienced truly amazing summer work abroad in Germany. Danke sehr!!!
I'm a former Navy Aviation Electronics Technician. We had Simpson 260 analog meters when I started in "A" School, but moved to Fluke model 77 in the mid 1980s. I still have a Simpson 260 for nostalgia, but use a Fluke 77 and a couple of Fluke 23s for the home and cars/motorcycles. Hewlett Packard and Fluke 45 for benchtop work.
For those really on a tight budget, even the *really* cheap Harbor Freight multi-meters work just fine. They just don't hold up to abuse, but will get the job done. When you can, saving a little more for a better quality tool will pay off in the long-run. Love the videos!
Hello Adam! I've had my trusted Fluke meter since 1998 and I have only changed a fuse and the battery once about 3 years ago. It saw very heavy use until last year. When I bought it was an investment for me as I paid 180$ for it. I don't use it often these days, but I will not get rid of it. It will be in my garage to remind me the times when I could count on my trusted friend every time. Thank you Adam...!!!
I'm a software engineer, but a lifelong electronics hobbyist, I've designed and sold my own electronics as well. Adam is spot on. If you want confidence in measurement, a no frills multi-meter, that will last a lifetime, Fluke is the way to go. Even on the entry level Fluke meters, Fluke may skimp on advanced features, but the things they don't skimp on is safety, ruggedness and overall quality. I have 40 year old Fluke meters that are still within spec and work just as well as they did when they were brand new. Batteries last forever as well.
I am an electronics technician, and I have to agree with everything you said. If you work with electronics at all, having a good quality multimeter is essential. As for Fluke, their equipment is built for daily use. It just works, and easily survives the occasional oops. My multimeter is also a Fluke meter, bought used in 1982. It's still going strong.
Hey Adam believe it or not I have the same multimeter as you bought 30 years ago. When I was an apprentice mechanic I bought one of the multimeters new, that was 45 years ago and I still use it today. That is how great Fluke meters are. I am in Australia by the way, keep up the great work mate.
Adam, agree 100%. I am a licensed low-voltage electrician and Flukes are the only MMs trusted in the trades -- you will literally get laughed off a job site for bringing something else. I bought this one (the 101) as a back up, the only features it lacks are AMP test and light -- if you want to spend 60ish more for those features, get the 107.
5:58 I do appreciate your input, and I understand fluke to be a respected brand. But fortunately, I caught that miss, and will continue my search for a faster pocket multimeter.
I am planning to move in the next 5-9 months. I will be doing some house wiring as well as building some IoT devices. I have not done any electrical work in years. This video caused me to stop dead and go "DOH!!". The only MMs I have used in the last few years were company owned. I have no idea where my MM went during all my moves. While this was playing, I went shopping and put the perfect (for me) MM on my wish list. AC(household) testing as well as basic DC for bench work. Thank you! This video was a great reminder of something so basic and necessary for the near future. I would have moved, with all that expense, only to need to spend more, maybe in a rush, to start fixing up the place.
Toured the Fluke factory in Everett when I was probably 12 years old. Back then they made their own chips ... it is astonishing what they accomplished.
I have a Fluke 77 II that I have used since buying it new with an additional lead kit in 1988. Meter still works great, I finally replaced the lead set last year. Flukes are great, reliable meters. I have checked it against newer ones and it is still accurate. BTW, mine predates the Yellow.
I got one for christmas of 2020. I love it, it just works so well. Today I just got a test probe kit today I love the fine probes and the aligator clips.
Aviation mechanic here. Continuity checks are a life saver when dealing with an avionics bundle. Especially if you have an outdated wiring diagram and you have a few hundred wires. Real easy to figure out which wire goes where. Assuming the wire has continuity. Put one lead on one end of the wire and then start touching other wires. If it beeps then you know where that wire goes. Mark it and then do that for all the other wires.
I love my Fluke 77. It's been in my toolbag for many years and it will see me through to retirement. It's a trusted piece of kit that I reach for time and again, like a trusty friend.
My oath. Mine is 27yesrs old seen everything from TTL 5v analysis through to 415v 3 phase and even suffered some fuse blow outs. In Australia best 400 spent in 1993.
$44 Fluke 101 Multimeter: amzn.to/33qGPrH
Fluke 77 Multimeter: amzn.to/3k6YXwA
Thats the same one I have at work. Im an aircraft electrician/avionics technician. For simple resistance or continuity checks that 101 is perfect. If I need more precise measurements I use the calibrated company multimeter which a fluke as well.
Hi I never been noticed can u say hi 😞🥺
I have one just like it! I think mine is even older!
I honestly hate these videos for the sole reason that all the products you push are from Amazon. Fuck Amazon, Fuck Jeff Bezos, and shame on you Adam for continuing to support one of the most despicable pieces of shit on the planet.
Awesome tip! Over the years I tried many multimeter brands including some expensive german made ones and other US brands.. Flukes have earned my trust, good instruments that work reliably and accurately year after year just as you described. If you think a faster continuity would help you some series are faster responding.. like the 83/85/87 models and the cheaper but equally good 175/177/179 models. Stay safe!
I've been a mechanic for a few years now and a multi meter is an absolute necessity. I still use my fathers from God know how long ago he purchased it. PS: your wood working has inspired t ed me to get a shop together and start producing my own line of custom cat scratcher/trees. Thanks for being the Adam we have always know and will always love.
I own several and I keep one in every vehicle I have ever owned (along with a basic set of tools)
I know I'm a computer engineer, I went through 4 years of the stuff. I work on tube radios and amps and build my own electronics. ...but I still call it beep mode.
Being very much a novice in electronics myself (far more than you, trust me) I like getting advice from someone who’s still figured out some stuff yet knows what it’s like to not be confident in this stuff. Experts often give too complex advice (unless they are good in pedagogy), but non-experts can often give really good advice to novices.
So thannk you!
Adam, your description of your knowledge and understanding of electronics matches mine perfectly! Also, your description of using the continuity function just clicked for me. I've owned the same Fluke 77 for over 14 years and pretty much all I knew how to use it for was to check something dead.
As an electrical engineer I can confirm:
Continuity is indeed the most useful feature on a multimeter
For everything else there's -Mastercard- o-scope
this goes to 40 m ohms. mind blowing for a phone size meter.
engineer that finds continuity the most useful lol
Really?... As an automotive technician, we were always told that continuity is crap. Voltage can tell you 95% of things if you know how/where to test - and actual resistance testing is much more valuable than basic continuity testing. You can have 'good' contunuity, but the resistance could be way out of specification.
@@mommaduck79 Well, you can test for continuity really, really fast and then do the resistance testif you're interested in exact readings. I often use continuity testing when I solder wires like audio xlr, dms, usb and so on - just to check that I didn't mess up. I usually don't need exact resistance readings, I just want to know if I soldered the right wires to the correct pins.
This was one of my favorite toys to play with in my dad’s shop as a little kid. Still have it. Still works. Still use it regularly. I have always had fantastic experiences with fluke products, even now that I’m in industry.
ENERGIZER makes a 12yr shelf life battery, I now use them in all my occasional use gear so they don't leak.
Hai😊
Hey Adam I just want to say no matter what you post I’m always excited and look forward to your videos daily. I get a lot of my inspiration and ideas from watching your one day build, and tech tips. If I had a wish, it would be to one day meet you and spend the day building something with you. I’m a combination pipe welder and I can show you some tips with Tig, mig, Stick, and flux core if you want any. Stay safe Adam and keep these videos coming!
And he doesnt put out enough....always eagerly awaiting the next video.
@@MrSbfan2000 I couldn't agree more with you both more.
You need to replace your dad's meter and get him a upgrade.
Recently my right earcup of my headphone died. So I did what every responsible man does and bought a multimeter to check if my right ear speaker gets current. Then I bought a solder kit.
In total i spend 85 euro to fix 90 euro headphone
...but now you have the tools and experience to fix other things. Also you can charge your friends to fix their stuff!
Nice.
6 days ago my cheap laser-level died, so, already owning a Mastech M92A multimeter, I opened up the laser-level to find the ridiculous excuse-for-a-switch has died and can't be replaced/fixed. I cannibilized the laser diode and the rest of the innards, ditched the case and wired in a switch from an old DVD player so now I have a nifty little laser pointer instead.
I hope you get lot's of use out of your two new buys (while listening to your tunes of course)
Realistically most my like that repairs are mostly about the enjoyment and satisfaction of the process rather than the money saved. Especially if you factor in the time it takes.
@@qlum Same here; problem solving, crafting, being creative. I work with computer systems, networking and electronics and they're all fun challenges.
I had to solder my new solder soldering iron today. Now that one took some creative solutions.
I Love Fluke!! I have a 87V. That Fluke 101 is really good, but if you don't want to spend so much money you can buy a aneng an8008
What about ANENG AN8001?, gonna be my first multimeter, I orded it and in one week it will stay on my hands.
Got one of those! Love the fact that it's extremely precise for low DC voltages!
@@NunoRVOliveira the 8008?
An8203
@@cinialvespow1054 It is very good for low voltages and currents, albeit is it very slow and that can be annoying for conductivity measures, but when it gets it, it's bang on.
Fell in love with Fluke meters in the Navy. I've use many kinds before and after, but for me Flukes are just the top of the line meter.
I have an old Fluke 77 as well and concur. Rock solid device. I am not an electronics guy either, but still use it regularly. Recently used it on CSST gas line to make sure it grounded properly to dissipate static. Multimeter is one of those tools that anyone who fixes things themselves should have in the toolbox.
I've got one of those Fluke 77 multimeters and I think I've changed battery in it twice in almost 30 years. For being so old they are amazingly battery efficient, not to mention built like a tank. And yes, I still use it. My first mutimeters were analogue and though they were just fine when new they did tend to break easily, especially when someone switched them to the wrong measurement scale and blew the coil winding. Happened twice as my father borrowed them to check something. He also killed at least three digital multimeters, all being the cheapest he could find so it wasn't really a big loss, but the Fluke survived even him.
Now while I would be happy to recommend a Fluke for anyone who is looking for a multimeter I really don't think most people need to go that high. For most people the really cheap ones will work perfectly well, as long as you are not going to work with mains power at least. In the cheap ones they tend to cheap out on things like electrical isolation in addition to not having much in the way of circuit protection. While the later can kill the multimeter the former can bite you if you are unlucky. But if all you do is work on low voltage equipment or electronics there isn't really much of a risk.
I remember seeing reviews of cheap multimeters on the EEVBlog channel here on YT. These could be worth looking up as there were some crap but also some that was surprisingly decent for the price. Somewhat surprisingly the accuracy of even the really cheap ones he tested was fine, even if the rest of it was a steaming pile...
I was an electronics technician on a nuclear submarine, and we used Fluke multimeters exclusively. We used the Fluke 87. It was a great piece of gear. Never bought one for myself because of the price point. Great suggestion, I will pick one of these up for sure.
I was an EM and we used the same 77 he had, minus the yellow case.
Fluke rocks! I have 5 or 6 of their instruments myself.
When working with the multimeter leads, EVERY time you turn it on regardless of what mode you are going to use it in, start in Continuity mode, and touch the leads together to verify they are good and connected to the meter itself, then switch to the mode you want to use.
No point in testing for voltage or anything else if the leads aren’t quite plugged in or the wires are damaged, and this happens very easily. Get in the habit of doing a quick continuity check EACH time before use. This can save lots of time in going down the wrong path when your meter gives bad readings due to a bad connection or damaged leads.
Used several Fluke tools as an ISP technician. Even their specialist stuff like low-end tone generators (for pulsing a signal down a line so you can tell which one is your service, even miles away) can do things like detect continuity or the presence of 35-52V DC.
A friend of mine has a Fluke 115. I've seen him drop it countless times. I've seen him actually take a few jolts with it. It's almost a 15 year old meter, and still works like it was brand new. Because of seeing his take years of abuse and still work perfectly, I ended up buying my own Fluke 117 2 years ago. Worth every penny of that $240.
The UNI-T UT210E has been my favorite budget multimeter. It has been extremely robust and does everything that the Fluke in the video can do but has a few extra features. NCV (non contact voltage) detection. You can put it near live wires and it will alert you. The clamp not only works for AC current but also DC current, which is something not many DC clamp meters have. You can clamp it around a car battery cable and see what is going in/out of the battery. This has been a very important tool for my off-grid solar setup.
I'd have to say UNI-T are one the best brand of budged/ clone meters out there. I've had a $30 meter from them for about 10 years now and it works great.
Be careful with UNI-T stuff, not all of their multi-meter models are of the same quality in terms of safety and accuracy. That said, you can't go wrong with a UT139C for example
I love my UT211B so much that it's my daily driver. Fluke has no competitor - You need a toolbox full of Flukes to get the same functionality.
@carl schiel you're inspiring me to get one (i need DC clamp current measurement), and i'm wondering : why did you go with UT210E when the UT210D seems better in every aspect for the same price ? (twice the current range, temperature and frequency measures etc...)
Only pro i could find is that it has a VFC low pass filter, i don't know what that is used for
@@InformatrIIcks The UT210D can measure 20A/ 200A on AC and DC, no 2A scale
It can also measure temperatur and frequency
The UT210E can measure 2A/20A/100A on AC and DC no Temp or frequency.
Both meters can measure true RMS up to 2 kHz the VFC limits this to 400Hz.
VFC is useful if you probe the output voltage of a variable frequency
drive.
I'm an electronic technician and I love your enthusiasm, remind me my old days when I first have my digital multimeter. Then many years after I finally got my first Fluke, ohh!! It was heaven!!!
Love your reaction. Makes me want to go and take a look to my Fluke, 16 years and I still love it.
I have a Radio Shack analog multimeter my dad bought me in 1978. Still works well and I used it until about a year ago when I finally bought a digital MM.
Bonus side Rant - that was the best part of the video for me 😃
Side rant was my favorite part. So badly do I want to hear from Jamie on this show one day.
Thanks for the shout-out Adam!
Along with Fluke Tools and Condition-Monitoring Sensors, the "Accelix" platform also includes eMaint CMMS to help make sense of all that captured data.
[full disclosure - I'm an eMaint AE, and a huge Adam Savage fan]
The Savage Effect- he posts an Amazon product and it immediately goes up in price and is often sold out.
Fluke isn't a Amazon product though. I'm a electrician and they're very reputable in our industry. They been around for a long time.
EEVBlog does a great review of the AN8008. a very good and accurate multi meter in the same size for only like $30.
And their own BM235 multimeter, which is my personal favourite so far!
The contactless electric field detection is super handy.
@@mgytusr yeah, I have a Brymen BM257 at home for my main multimeter
Might pick up an AN8008 for my car, I've been meaning to fill out my car toolkit a bit.
Especially when compared to a Fuke 77, the EEVBlog 121GW and especially the BM235 are so much more.
I think Adam argument mostly comes from his experience with its longevity. This is something even if the performance of the an8008 is great, probably won't be as long.
Different people have difference criteria. Personally I use an AN870 which is fine for my needs but I doubt it will still work after 2 decades.
@@morgan98801 ..and spare parts! I'm sure Adam can get a batter cover or a test lead socket when he need. Try that with cheap meters...
Sadly fluke has gone where all the great test gear makers have gone. They're now part of another company that's part of another company and so on. All of which is run only with quarterly earnings and bonuses before their eyes.
That's why I trust Dave Jones. He has a passion for what he sells!
You are holding my Fluke meter I purchased mine a long long time ago it is the best meter ever, I am now 78 and it is still working,
Thanks, Adam, Loved you in MythBusters, used to watch you each week in the UK
I’ve been working on electronics since I was a wee lad, (30+ years) I have tons of test instruments, meters, scopes etc...
I found a Fluke 110 in the trash with a broken knob about 5 years ago. I fixed the knob and now I use it almost 95% of the time and I use it daily.
you lucky bast..d
Adam, I love that there is so much more to you than the myth busters shows I watched as a kid. I'm a biological scientist now, but I am a post doc in an electrical engineering and computer science lab. We are creating diagnostic devices based on how much the width of a protein changes the capacitance on an electrode that I designed, then made the system to take the measurement. I wanted to let you know, it's people like you who led me to the path of doing what I do now. Thank you man.
One day I hope to walk into the paint shop and see "Fluke yellow".
It's next to can-am yellow.
And Fluke Gray
I believe that Fluke actually trademarked their yellow "meter-condom," which is why you never find modern multimeters in yellow!
@@mhlevy Uh... good to know.
Nice
I was just gifted a FLUKE MD88 with all the components in the kit, so happy! first FLUKE I have ever owned as I could never want to spend the money, but for $46 currently as typing, that little FLUKE is so adorable to have as a pocket carry
Grant would have been a solid recommendation, electronics were his jam
I still have and use my first multi-meter. It was a $10 (actually $9.98) kit from Radio Shack I bought in the early 70's. All parts included and it took me less than hour to solder the components to the board and assemble. Through the years I had to replace the occasional capacitor or resistor but it still works wonderfully. For some reason I prefer the analog meter because when the voltage is varying you get a better visual representation of the average.
I am an Industrial Mechanic and own a lot of Fluke, and I have that 101 meter. Simple, great range, Cat III, fits in your bag and cheep. I bought two more, one for the house and one for the RV. It does not measure Amps, but most people will never need to do that and it would be safer to do that with a clamp meter anyway.
yes sir, I always borrowed from my senior at my workplace, but I think it was model 17+ which is way too expensive for me. I love continuity and to check whether the soldering job that I did works fine. But now I ordered this exact model 101 last week and will arrive it in 2-3 weeks. I cannot wait to have it!
Love the beep, but when your in a car take care to never test the air bag circuits. The beep works by supplying voltage, poo will come out when your airbag deploys and you wont hear the beep. Also take care with electronic circuits, you can damage them by running continuity tests.
I would be more worried about static electricity from my own body than the voltage generated by a fluke meter running a continuity check. But yeah, be careful with air bag circuits.
I find a test light is much more useful for working on cars
The proper way to run a continuity test is always have whatever wire you are checking disconected at both ends for this reason. If it is still hooked up you can damage other componets or get a faulty reading from interference.
@@heziah4429 Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of a continuity check, by isolating them?
@@Games_and_Music No, because (in that situation) you're testing for a wiring fault. If the wire passes, the problem is elsewhere.
ive been using my Fluke 87V for over 20 years on aircraft avionics, automotive, house, and now robots. it works great
Adam is such a good teacher I’d love for him to make a video about all the features of a multi meter
Hi Adam. I have been sitting on my old radio for months now. I recapped it, working great, and when I finally soldered back on the grounding shield, dead silence. Removing it didn't work, and no amount of reflowing the solder joints helped. It was dead as a door nail. Today I finally bit the bullet and took your recommendation of the Fluke-101. I always avoided fluke because of their price, but watching this and seeing your response to their entry level one has changed my mind. I will be testing the diodes and continuity of every single component because by God I will get this radio running. I have owned it since 2017 and picked it up for 20gbp in Leicester. Now I live in the USA, of course I brought it with me! But it began fading out on FM so it was due a capacitor change, which is what begun this whole mess. It's a Sony ICF-5500M and it's my pride n joy. Thanks for the recommendation. Wish me luck :)
I remember frying my dad's mutlimeter with a sparkgenerator for an old motorcycle. I wanted to know how high of a voltage the spark was... Turns out: very.
The display transformed into a random number generator.
Might be a little late for that info, but, the Fluke's I've used, and I don't know the model right now, have a feature where you can switch from a live measuring of the voltage, to where it holds the highest measured value
@@ThePeanuts1000 An expensive multimeter may survive trying to measure the voltage on a spark plug, but it's not likely that the measurement will be accurate. A general purpose multimeter range usually stop at about 1000V, and sparks may require 25000V, or even 60KV on some modern cars. Using a multimeter this way is NOT safe. The pulse is also very brief, and regular multimeters may not be fast enough to produce an accurate measurement even if connected through a high voltage probe designed for the purpose (they're typically used with an oscilloscope).
@@ThePeanuts1000 you'd kill a lot of multimeters with such high transients. Imagine the spark and the gap it has and arcs over the gap. That arc (and the energy of) has to suppressed/dissipated in the meter. The best general purpose DMM might survive =but= not measure, transients like 12-14kV. Flip note fluke101 has good input protection, yet by no means it should be tested on spark plugs.
Haha, noob, you need an O-scope and some training! Also, don't forget to test at operating temperature. I'm sure there are a few gear heads that adjust their spark gap with an o-scope and tune everything. Probably not a task taken lightly
@@ge48421 @stanimir ah ok, sorry, guess I was a bit out of my depth there, never tried measuring spark plugs, nor am I in any way into cars, didn't expect spark plugs to need that high voltage. Learned something new then :D
I actually just bought one of these the other day. In the military and in the electronics field, I've always used Fluke and I don't plan on ever changing. Good choice, sir!
I used a Fluke 8 Automotive from the late 80s. Had the same low price as your Fluke 101 because it basically had the two features I used, ohms (audible continuity) and DC voltage. I still have it and it still works. The test lead wires were the weak point. They got melted a lot on hot engine parts and the wire would break inside the insulation from repeated flexing with use. Real Fluke replacement leads were expensive but a must have due to their quality compared to cheap knockoffs.
I have a Fluke 27 and love it. Your enthusiasm mirrors mine as this multimeter has solved countless problems over the years. Versatile and to be quite frank, I'm still discovering some of its functions. Thanks for the content!
I need a GIF of Adam saying "I'm a hack and have no idea what I'm talking about." Because that basically sums up my life so far
Also sums up his life.
@@jonanderson5137 Sums up a lot of people's lives.
What sold me on Fluke meter was during an automotive training session done by a fluke dealer he took a model 78 which is like yours but an automotive collision and threw it against the back wall when the class which was steel-reinforced concrete about a 20-foot throw and the meter still works just fine
The Fluke was my first every multimeter. 30+ years later, still use mine weekly.
I've got that same Fluke. Got it thirty years ago. Does indeed still work.
I only need them every few months or so.....but when they are needed..they are 100% needed.
I have the same two meters. The 77 is military issue in the u.k and is available surplus for £30.00 sterling, is a very capable unit and built like a tank. My only issue with the 101 was a broken battery clip which i bodged with a paper clip and a dab of glue. I am not an expert by any means but for every day basic use, i couldn't wish for a finer duo. I utterly agree with your comments and support the brand 100%. Keep up the great work Adam !! All the best from the U.K !!!
I still have my Radio Shack DMM from undergrad. It’s almost 20 years old and still going strong!
Inherit this one from my Grandmother actually, my daily driver is a cheap one that i got from a kit but every time I find the RSDMM on my storage , I turn it on just to see if it works and....still does!
My ancient Radio Shack DMM was still going strong when I blew the ammeter fuse (200 mA max, sheesh!). I never bothered to get another fuse for it because by then I had several other meters that weren't as big and clunky.
I have an old workin Radio Shack multimeter that has PC output with software that came on a 3.5 inch floppy for Windows 3.1.
I've got a Ratshack
- de-soldering tool (blue with yellow bumper and white tip)
- soldering iron
- extra hands that never worked well
- PS/2 :cueCat
I'll never understand Adam saying he's a hack in anything. Super passionate, super humble, and has done so much that I could only dream of achieving any of his former gigs.
Fluke makes some awesome Multimeters, with a wide range of different features. But they are still quite expensive though. I've had mine for close to 25 years and it still works as good as the day I bought it and it can take Temp and RPM readings as well as traditional multimeter functions. Which is nice even though I cannot say I've never actually need to use the Temp or RPM settings. But it's nice to have that ability.
Even at $50 I wouldn't recommend one as an entry level or even to a hobbyist level but, if you're using as part of your job I would.
Bc nothing looks more unprofessional than pulling out a Janky Homeless Despot, Crapsman, Hazard Fraught or an old Amazon Special brand Multimeter on the job site. Not to mention you also get a little more piece of mind with a Fluke or "GreenLee" knowing that you don't have to worry about getting put on your arse or even killed bc of being cheaply designed and manufactured.
Or . . .
You could dress professionally and produce quality work while using whatever tools get the job done. Worked well enough to get requested by name for rush travel contracts by multi-national customers, even over the direct contractor's own techs.
My toolkit ranges from Greenlee and Klein to Harbor Freight brands to hand-bodged . . . _stuff._ It gets the job done, and done right.
My grandparents lived in Los Altos Hills for forty years, and we took the 280 exit at Foothill College on Moody Rd. every time we went to visit. Thanks for that bit of nostalgia. I actually played in David Packard’s apricot orchard as a kid, since my grandparents lived adjacent to it.
That area is totally different now.
REMEMBER TO ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS
Check continuity with your leads EVERY time before you use your meter!
Wish I knew that form the start.
VERY TRUE! I was checking a system on a Jet that wasn't working. After researching the schematics we started shooting wires end to end with a 50 foot test lead from the spine of the aircraft to the nose. First 3 wires shoot open. WTF? Test the test lead and it was OPEN/broken. We didn't check it first like we all know we should. Fixed the test lead and shot wires. first 3 wires shoot open again! Ultimately ended up opening up a panel with 75 screws holding it on and found the cannon plug disconnected at the bulkhead. it looked like it was connected until I touched it and it flopped. The jet just came back from Depot maintenance and must have had the right wing changed and they didn't check everything properly.
For me it's pretty much muscle memory at this point, I automatically always check continuity between the probes before poking anything
Hey Adam. I'm an female Electrician Apprentice from Germany. I'm 30 years old and im pretty impressed with Fluke's Multimeter. I've got the T6-1000 and this tool is super handy. It's so small and i love to see that even across the ocean the love for great electronics is universal. So trank you for sharing this :-)
Drop a 106 from like 2m - bam, cracked screen. Drop a 87 V off the 12 floor - works fine. Ask me how I know...
How did that happen
I got my Fluke77 back in college in 1990/91. I still love that meter. Same as yours. It just runs and works. Ive never once thought that if I pulled it out and turned it on, it might not work.
Bonus tool tip, Production Assistants suck!
Fun fact. In my school when we work with multimeters, everyone needs to turn off the beeping when we are measuring continuity. The teacher is going crazy when we beep too
much.
Does anyone use the beeping to censor his cursing whenever it sets him off?
@@ketsuekikumori9145 great idea for in one of the fun edits here on @tested ! Bleeping away curse words with a small picture in picture Adam in the corner connecting the wires of the multimeter.
Andreas Kvisler How? I’ve never seen a meter where there was a non-beeping continuity test. The only alternative is to use resistance mode.
@@tookitogo i have one, very cheap tough, it started diplaying random numbers and died
Working on Hotel and Convention Center 208v 400A drops. I trust my life to my Fluke. Definitely a must for anyone dealing with electricity on a day-to-day basis.
I'm an electrical engineer, did a lot of hands-on (almost electrician) stuff at my last job. I was given $x to buy a new multimeter (DMM, digital multimeter is a common term) and ended up spending the full amount on a Greenlee that was the equivalent of a Fluke that cost about 4x as much. It worked perfectly the entire time I had it, so there's definitely a "Fluke tax" going on.
For the average Joe Blow who doesn't need *perfect* readings a super-cheap unit can do the job. Princess Auto here in Canada usually has a couple dirt cheap units. My only tips are:
1. avoid the ones that use 9V batteries, they're a pain in the ass to replace from a cost perspective;
2. avoid anything that does continuity on the CURRENT SENSING probe (denoted by a mA/Ω near where you plug in the lead, usually). This makes it super easy to burn stuff out when you're just trying to check if it works. Continuity should be on your high impedance input, usually where you plug in for testing voltage.
edit note: ones that have an input that say something like "10ADC" and another that say V/mA/Ω are what you want. Not just V and mA/Ω. Best would be three separate A, mA, and VΩ inputs.
tl;dr don't buy the cheapest model from Princess Auto or Harbor Freight, pick the one up from it.
Thank you Adam, same boat as you when I was younger. Now to get the Fluke 101. Cheers!
Very good tips adam, I have to agree audible continuity is the most valuable part of a good multimeter. Has to be by far the most selection use. Next would have to be the d/c amperage selection.
I used a Fluke 77 for many years in my job as a maintenance technician and currently own and use a Fluke 17B+ in my retired hobby workshop. They make great meters.
The best multimeter is the one you can find when you need it!
I can never find mine at home, that’s how I ended up owning 4!
Are you trying to say that it's the multimeter's fault ?
ZZtop 1700 They’re just as bad as tape measures...
I have that exact same Fluke meter. Passed down from my Dad who died in 2004, he must have had it 15 years before that. Still works like new to this day.
Tip: The good meter stays in the shop. The Cheepie meter goes to the job site. If the cheapy on finds another "home" oh well. So never take the Expensive Meter to a job site unless you got lots of "pocket change".
My company pays for my tools so it doesn't matter to me lol
@@aphenioxPDWtechnology I can attest to this. Guys who were working on a job with us told us they weren't allowed to use the Klein tools multi meter anymore because one of them melted while trying to use it. Safety should be the biggest priority here
@@aphenioxPDWtechnology It's more about losing or getting it stolen than "beating"
@@aphenioxPDWtechnology It is one of the first things I learned. The problem with some of the job sites is some of the workers just decide that "Your Meter" is the one that They want.
I have an 87V that I got years ago now for $40. I literally use it every single day ( I repair appliances ). I absolutely love it.
The speed of continuity beeps is a surprisingly variable quality in multimeters. That one sounds nice and quick. If it's slow or inconsistent, (especially if you're trying to diagnose or reverse something) you end up never trusting your observations
rpavlik1 - totally agree , fluke tunes their continuity beepers to trigger on the slightest touch to sound loud and to seeming hold for a split second too so it’s detects the slightest breaks , I’ve had a fluke 10 ( it was an entry level metre when I bought it ) for 30 years and the only issue I had was that it’s switch broke and it was fixed by fluke no questions asked.
My Dad bought me a Fluke 75 for Christmas in 1985. My first of many Flukes, and I still use it regularly. And it's on maybe its fifth battery!
If the tape covering brand name was driving Adam up the wall, I can only imagine how bad it was for Jamie.
I own the very same small Fluke multi meter, for home use/garage/shop is perfect. Small enough, easy to read and continuity sound definitely is the great feature.
My budget and mini multimeter recommendation: Uni-T UT120A
Also a good choice.
I got my Fluke 77 brand new in 1997 as part of my technicians toolkit. I was fortunate enough to have been able to buy that toolkit when I left the company and got it at a bargain price. My Fluke has served me well and I can also say I have only installed new batteries about 4 times.
I do also have a budget meter for the rough work.
Recently I was issued with a brand new Fluke 77 at my new company. Works just as well and I love the bigger screen, but the modern testleads are too hard and cheap compared to my original.
7:05: Adam builds a multimeter in today's One Day Build.
My favorite one day build so far, fluke multimeters are amazing, I use fluke 117 volt alert for electrical and it work flawlessly every time and has never once let me down, a bit costly but worth it for a meter that will last for many decades if not the rest of my life.
I love how Adam is recommending literally the best multimeter you can get. I'm absolutely a fluke fan too..
But then he goes into using it like a cheap multimeter, and you realize that he would have gotten by with a free harbor freight meter and not had any issue. He doesn't actually need the accuracy of a fluke, he can use anything to get continuity... Or the rough voltage he needs. Lol
I had one of those "free with any purchase" Harbor Freight multimeters. I mostly used it as a battery tester. It started "freaking out" and I determined the PCB had cracked where you insert the probes. I probably could have soldered it back together, but...meh.
@@ReverendTed Yeah. The quality is really hit and miss because of the non-existent quality control.
I have a couple harbor freight ones that lasted over 15 years now, and I've also gotten ones that broke within the first month.
However I really like them because like most voltmeters, they are all reasonably accurate, but they are not all calibrated properly.
But what you can do is take your fluke out of its nice cabinet, open up the harbor freight meter and use the fluke to calibrate the harbor freight meter. It only takes 2 minutes but then you put your fluke away safely with your other high end electronics tools, and you chuck your harbor freight meter into the top of a toolbox in the garage, or workbench, or maybe keep one in a tool bag for a car... Etc.
Now you have a multimeter that can be tossed around, lended, etc and you don't have to worry about it.
That said if I was on national TV, I would probably not want to be seen using the red harbor freight meter either. We all see the yellow, so we all know what meter he's using.
Yes. But the Fluke is better than the cheepy meter in regards to it's safety compared to the less expensive meters. If you are measuring voltages over 50v you need a meter you can count on not to blow up in your hand and in that respect the Flukes outperform the others hands down. The new Flukes today are much more forgiving when the meter is set to resistance and stuck in the wall socket by accident.
@@dandearman2871 its
It's not always about accuracy but how well does the meter work. If you drop it one time is it now junk? Does the the autorange work well or is it slow. Does the diode check work correctly or is it useless? Does the meter have cat III or IV rating and is it save to use on line voltage? Does it eat batteries? Does it have any features like Min and Max, capacitance reading or temperature measurement settings? Sometimes you don't even need a meter just a lightbulb with a couple of wires soldered on to it.
My father has the same meter. He's been using it for over 30 years as well! It was a staple of my house as my dad DIY'd everything and all the wiring in the house. Just bought a house. Should get one myself!
Digital MM are awesome, but they still can't beat the old needle style for simplicity and accuracy...
Agree I have an analog Simpson from the 1950s
I went from a 1st gen Fluke 77 that was handed down from my Dad to a Fluke 101 I got when the battery leads got worn out from the 77 after 40+ years, and now I’m using an 87V that I got once I saved up the money. Fluke makes a great meter that’s worth the price based purely on dependability and reliability.
step 1: multimeter, €9
step 2: oscilloscope, €999999999999999999999
:D
Got any good cheap oscilloscope to recommend ?
lowlyp0p DS1052E
find an old analog 2 channel on ebay
@@lowlyp0p rigol's entry range is quite good for digital ones. Otherwise look secondhand!
You can get small handheld o scopes new for $100
Found a Fluke 87v on eBay that appeared brand new but claimed didn't work. Bought it for $150ish and as I suspected all it needed was a new fuse. I'm the same age as Adam and this thing will outlive us both. Outstanding product from an equally outstanding company.
"I'm a hack and mostly don't know what I'm talking about." -Adam Savage
The rant about the pa was the best part of the Video. Love it
Adam Savage: the type of dude to say ‘automatic pilot’, not ‘autopilot’.
We Stan.
Foothill College!!!!
Oh yeah! Two BIG thumbs up for them:
1) Andy Fraknoi and SV Astronomy Lecture Series. Man, oh man, what a wonderful program!
2) Dr. Seefeld's European work abroad program in the 80's. Thanks to them, I experienced truly amazing summer work abroad in Germany. Danke sehr!!!
Hey Adam, are those Hellboy's guns behind you ? ^^
I think he has a video on them too
I'm a former Navy Aviation Electronics Technician. We had Simpson 260 analog meters when I started in "A" School, but moved to Fluke model 77 in the mid 1980s. I still have a Simpson 260 for nostalgia, but use a Fluke 77 and a couple of Fluke 23s for the home and cars/motorcycles. Hewlett Packard and Fluke 45 for benchtop work.
For those really on a tight budget, even the *really* cheap Harbor Freight multi-meters work just fine. They just don't hold up to abuse, but will get the job done. When you can, saving a little more for a better quality tool will pay off in the long-run. Love the videos!
Hello Adam! I've had my trusted Fluke meter since 1998 and I have only changed a fuse and the battery once about 3 years ago. It saw very heavy use until last year. When I bought it was an investment for me as I paid 180$ for it. I don't use it often these days, but I will not get rid of it. It will be in my garage to remind me the times when I could count on my trusted friend every time. Thank you Adam...!!!
I'm a software engineer, but a lifelong electronics hobbyist, I've designed and sold my own electronics as well. Adam is spot on.
If you want confidence in measurement, a no frills multi-meter, that will last a lifetime, Fluke is the way to go. Even on the entry level Fluke meters, Fluke may skimp on advanced features, but the things they don't skimp on is safety, ruggedness and overall quality.
I have 40 year old Fluke meters that are still within spec and work just as well as they did when they were brand new. Batteries last forever as well.
I have and love the tiny 101..
I watched this a year ago, and today i now own a fluke 101. Thank you. - Longtime fan.
I am an electronics technician, and I have to agree with everything you said. If you work with electronics at all, having a good quality multimeter is essential. As for Fluke, their equipment is built for daily use. It just works, and easily survives the occasional oops. My multimeter is also a Fluke meter, bought used in 1982. It's still going strong.
Hey Adam believe it or not I have the same multimeter as you bought 30 years ago. When I was an apprentice mechanic I bought one of the multimeters new, that was 45 years ago and I still use it today. That is how great Fluke meters are. I am in Australia by the way, keep up the great work mate.
Adam, agree 100%. I am a licensed low-voltage electrician and Flukes are the only MMs trusted in the trades -- you will literally get laughed off a job site for bringing something else. I bought this one (the 101) as a back up, the only features it lacks are AMP test and light -- if you want to spend 60ish more for those features, get the 107.
5:58
I do appreciate your input, and I understand fluke to be a respected brand. But fortunately, I caught that miss, and will continue my search for a faster pocket multimeter.
I am planning to move in the next 5-9 months. I will be doing some house wiring as well as building some IoT devices. I have not done any electrical work in years. This video caused me to stop dead and go "DOH!!". The only MMs I have used in the last few years were company owned. I have no idea where my MM went during all my moves. While this was playing, I went shopping and put the perfect (for me) MM on my wish list. AC(household) testing as well as basic DC for bench work. Thank you! This video was a great reminder of something so basic and necessary for the near future. I would have moved, with all that expense, only to need to spend more, maybe in a rush, to start fixing up the place.
Toured the Fluke factory in Everett when I was probably 12 years old. Back then they made their own chips ... it is astonishing what they accomplished.
I have a Fluke 77 II that I have used since buying it new with an additional lead kit in 1988. Meter still works great, I finally replaced the lead set last year. Flukes are great, reliable meters. I have checked it against newer ones and it is still accurate.
BTW, mine predates the Yellow.
I got one for christmas of 2020. I love it, it just works so well.
Today I just got a test probe kit today I love the fine probes and the aligator clips.
Aviation mechanic here. Continuity checks are a life saver when dealing with an avionics bundle. Especially if you have an outdated wiring diagram and you have a few hundred wires. Real easy to figure out which wire goes where. Assuming the wire has continuity. Put one lead on one end of the wire and then start touching other wires. If it beeps then you know where that wire goes. Mark it and then do that for all the other wires.
I love my Fluke 77. It's been in my toolbag for many years and it will see me through to retirement. It's a trusted piece of kit that I reach for time and again, like a trusty friend.
My oath. Mine is 27yesrs old seen everything from TTL 5v analysis through to 415v 3 phase and even suffered some fuse blow outs.
In Australia best 400 spent in 1993.