I use this as an everyday carry in industrial automation. It fits my vest pocket with leads and the magnetic hanger and is very light. My bigger meters spend most of their time in the toolbox now. This has been a very reliable meter for basic troubleshooting work. Come to think of it, since owning it for about 4 years I have never changed the batteries!
Def, and those soft rubber corners screams soft head helmet, of course their all kinds like that. I like my 90 degree corners and boxey 80-90s cars, Soo maybe I'm biased, once my doctor says I can remove my helmet I'll let you know
Was going to say; "for $70 to AU$80 you can't beat an SCA (Super Cheap Auto) mini clamp meter (I've had 2 of em' for well over a decade) - but I just checked and it doesn't look like they sell that one any more... But the good news is, it looks like they've superseded it with the ToolPro clamp meter for $69AU which appears to be slightly better. So I'd recommend IT over the (liver) Fluke for the same money.
I have a few and have been quite happy with them as basic quick trouble shooting meter where absolute accuracy is not my primary concern. My best guess on the AC only mA range is they have have it for use with AC only current clamps. Which are just current transformers with a small load resistor to turn the output into a small AC voltage. I would make some sense given that these were originally intended as low cost electrician/field tech meters for the Asian market.
I got a 107 in my garage toolbox, the backlight option is a "Must have" for a mechanic and those little Fluke are perfectly fit for this kind of work, I keep the 20K countdown unit for the lab were they belong! Nice review again mate! 👍
I like the separate AC and DC voltage measurement modes right on the dial! Some compact meters only have one mode on the dial, and they default to AC mode, so you always have to separately select the DC mode. This can be a nuisance if you mainly happen to need the meter for DC measurements, like quick car diagnostics. Even worse if the meter has a short and non-adjustable auto-off time, and then always defaults back to AC at power on, like my current one does...
Exactly how my uni-t 210 E and D are. Good thing it has been hacked in the eevblog forum I was able to change the default modes and set the backlight and auto off timers to hours.
@@Firecul you just need an arduino to read and edit the eeprom. There's a big thread on the forum on how to connect it. The confusing part was figuring out which values to swap but I eventually got it, there was a table in the datasheet showing which addresses correspond to what functions. I also did the 6000 count mod.
@@quandiy5164 That might be the 50+ page thread I found then. I don't have an arduino actually, never needed one. A quick read though a couple of posts just made my head scramble. I'll keep it in mind but it's not as simple as I wanted lol One day I may attempt it.
I bought this thing when you first talked about it a decade or so ago Dave. Been in the toolbag ever since and is my go to in the field. Tough little nugget. Edit: As for the battery life, I think I replaced them once but I am honestly not sure.
This replaced my 87-V for field use about 4 years ago. No it's not an 87 but it's Fluke quality and does what it does well. I went with the 107 for the current scale. I don't think I have replaced the original batteries. I think mine came with the magnetic strap. As handy as the magnet can be, I always found it swinging around. So I cut the magnet off and glued it to the back of the 107. Perfect. Nice review Dave! A tip for all you Fluke fan boys. I you use your flukes in the field you know how the soft rubber yellow holster gets real grimy. And they just don't clean up well with any soap I've tried. Try this, spray it with clothes stain remover and throw it in the washer, with other clothes. Mine is cleaner than new. Wow!
Lack of a backlight is a bit of a shame. I love the AN8008 (still available by the way) as a secondary meter, I was working in a low light area the other day and its backlight is great. BM786 is my main meter of course :)
This video is a good reminder of how useful it is to have various generators and test references. They let you probe new products to get a more reliable idea of their specs and robustness.
As a hobbyist (basicly learned everything i know about EE by watching your channel for the last 8 years or so, and couple of other channels) I bought the Aneng 8008 when it was new and it's still working great and does everything i need it to do, it's all low voltage, like 12v max as my main interests are microcontrollers like esp32, arduinos etc ... However even though my Aneng can measure mains voltage, Im usually not comfortable using it to measure high voltages (and i try to not fuck around with high voltage) but now Im thinking about ordering this one for the few times I need to measure higher voltages and stuff like that .. Then i have the Aneng for it's features and keep using it as I currently do, but then i can have this one for it's protection when I need to measure high voltage knowing it wont damage my meter since I have a bit more faith in Fluke than Aneng ;) And buying a 2-400$ meter does not make alot of sens for me .. Win win
Make sure you get it from a reputable source, I'm sure the China Export squad already jumped on it to create a "FULKE" near exact copy minus the safety :)
I also bought an Aneng when Dave did his video on it, and I have found the range switch to be unreliable. After not using it awhile, a short will read as 10-20 ohms, for example. Switching it back and forth a bunch of times fixes it but it has caught me when I was using it to troubleshoot something (I use bench meters for most work). I think I would rather have a bulletproof range switch than features, since I only use it to test volts, ohms, and continuity anyway.
Curiously enough I've blown one of the cheapest analog meter on the market over my lap and... I SURVIVED. it didn't. Honestly I don't know what kind of voltages you do plan to measure that any cheapo no-name multimeter couldn't handle. Perhaps people go around poking at 100odd kVolts transmission lines with one probe to the other!?
Only issue I've ever had with my 8008 was the piece of plastic that formed the screen and sat infront of the lcd turned opaque - probably a reacrtion to UV light - but other than that it'd been fine.
I have several Flukes, including this, the 107, 115 and 117, plus the higher end types. For me though, the 101, 107 and the 115 and 117 have the best switch feel and action of any meter I've tried, regardless of price.
The mark on the back of the meter to the right of the CE mark is a CSA mark with C and US subscripts. This means it has been tested and is listed to Canadian and US (UL) standards. It has a similar meaning as a UL listed mark, but means it was tested and listed by CSA instead. Both are reputable and test to the same standards.
I have a working fluke 19 that I bought from the snap-on truck for about $130 in the mid to late nineties. It has served me very well and been used heaps.
Used this multimeter for a few years while working as a boat mechanic. I really like it. Packs small in a tool bag in a handy pouch (absolutely must get one with the meter). Works every time. Feels like a good quality meter. One of the leads broke after about 1.5year of daily use, but still love it.
I don't need another meter but I kind of do because of the size and I mainly deal in DC anyway.. the size, durability and quality is hard to pass on.. looks pretty accurate and covers 99% of what I would use it for. Thanks for reviewing and the battery of tests (pun intended), appreciate your detailed content.
I use this meter 5 days a week in a rough repair shop environment. Checking fuses, windings, bridge rectifiers, 120/240 v ac, 15 to 90 v dc and hertz. Works great, very durable.
I have the original Chinese 17B, which is supposed to be only sold in China. It was like 70€ some years ago and is a really great multimeter, built like a brick and with all the nice safety details for the original (as far as I can tell).
Bought my father one of these 10 years ago so I could have him diag stuff over the phone with me. Has been flawless. Worth its weight in gold when needed and easy to pack and carry around.
I had a Fluke 77 from 1989 and used it for decades until it got stolen a few years ago at work. The only problem I had is once in a while I had to take it apart due to a bad connection with the zebra strip and the knob would go past the end stop, but it was also dropped plenty of times. I also got a Fluke 87. While not the cheapest meters, you get your money's worth with how long they last and their quality is top-notch. At every company I've worked for in the tech industry, Fluke always seems to be the go-to brand. I agree with the PVC leads. I replaced the leads on my Flukes with some nice silicone gold-plated ones.
As a fire alarm technician I use this about every other day, and it’s perfectly accurate for the 12-24vdc market. I added a magnetic strap. Works for all the varied fire alarms /security systems / access control resistor values I see. I also have a 117 I use for automotive.
There is now a UL listed Uni-T UT131A. I picked one up for less than $25 out of curiosity because of the complete feature set. I wasn't expecting it to be this good and precise for the price. It might be the best beginner electronics multimiter out there now. Uni-T has not only improved in quality but they've been certifying a lot of their newer multimeters. It's worth getting your hands on one for a review. Many people would appreciate it, especially in countries where name brand multimeters like Flukes are really hard to find.
@@JohnDoe-wb7ng No worries. If you're looking for a good cheap clampmeter, there's the Uni-T UT210E as well. This one's more talked about though, because of the 2A DC+AC range and accuracy. Perfect for electronics jobbies (though I've used it plenty for residential electrical work as well). I bought it together with the UT131A, no regrets, both amazing little meters.
My biggest problem with that meter is that it appears to only measure up to 250 volts. That's not enough for troubleshooting power supplies or for most tube based electronics.
I needed a multimeter that could A: measure capacitance incase my air conditioner takes a dump. B: accurately measure low voltage DC to calibrate my LiPo battery charger and drone radio. And C: do general purpose stuff whenever I need a meter, including building an FPV drone in the future. And this checks every box! Got it on the way. I never thought I'd ever own a Fluke brand meter
I have a Fluke 107 as a spare meter. It is a great multimeter. It is fantastic at measuring mV AC. I just wish that Fluke could measure DC mV as well. It's a very important frature in the industy I work in.
It might be a limited meter but I have limited use. It stays in my company van in a hard case with Brymen silicone leads. I use mine to verify wall socket power and some low resistance (down to 1R pass/fail component)measurements, which it does a great job. Not often used but always ready, getting fresh batteries every January as does all my battery powered TE.
Same here, but when I built custom lab equipment for serious research institutions and had 3 different separate meters on my bench, all fluke's, I decided to bring in my do it all multimeter to make my work easier, The head engineer told me I couldn't use it, and then I found out why we had so much fluke stuff, and other very expensive oscilloscopes, frequency counters... Because not only are they accurate, and can take a beating, but they stay stable no matter what the climate or how often you drop them. We even sent them in for recalibration and re-certification every 2 years. We also had a lot of Hewlet Packard instrumentation from before the 80's that was high quality, some even programmable and could interface with each other and computers already in the late 60's! I have no clue why they dropped the entire line and went all in on crappy computers, but it turned out to be a bad move, and they got bought n' sold, sliced n' diced ever since, and into oblivion!
Not having amps can be kinda nice sometimes, honestly. Used to work at a hobby electronics store and got a couple dozen meters back every week from people claiming "it blew up and smoke came out". Everytime it was because they tried to measure a car battery on amps and blew the fuse because they used the wrong port. Store policy was anything returned below $150 had to be hit with a hammer and into the dumpster. Such a waste.
I absolutely love my Fluke 117. This looks like a very nice affordable option from Fluke - only disappointment for me is the continuity test not fast enough... Thanks for the review!
This has been my multimeter for the past 9 years. It's great. My tip to anyone with this meter is change your batteries every 2 years out of habit. Mine leaked everywhere and corroded my contacts. My screen has a dim area, so it's on borrowed time. Completely my fault though. It was great watching you put it through all that stress testing and pulling it apart - I have even more respect for my meter now.
Hi, suggest you use lithium non rechargeable batteries is all test kit, they are good for 8years plus without leaking so they will run out well before they leak, I've ran these in all my test kit for years after suffering from a few leaks in some of my expensive kit.
I’ve had one of these for a couple years now and can confirm it’s skookum as frig. After my 35 year old radio shack meter gave up the ghost, I went through a couple cheap Chinese meters before settling on this as my handy quick check meter.
I got one of these back in 2016 for 33 euro on Aliexpress. I have a Fluke 83 iii, 28 ii, 29mk1, 10 and a few others yet this is the one that sees most use. Probably the best buy ever and has held up really well. Might get a second one..
Wow. I don't think I have ever, in my life (aside from the stockyards in Ft. Worth, TX) heard this many words spoken in 26 minutes and 44 seconds. Wow. It is also very clear this gentleman has forgotten more about multimeters than I will ever, EVER know. Truly a Jedi Master of Multimeters. I'm still amazed at how deeply immersed I was in this video!
For the cheapo multimeters my "min requirement" is auto-off / battery safer. Dont hate anything more then getting a multimeter for 8 bucks, the bettery replacement costing 5 bucks, and it can happen every week. (i tend to use voltcraft / local cheap brand for CONRAD for students and small stuff) edit: also handy to have some simple ones to just have multiple voltages shown at the same time, without having to hoist around a chunky benchmultimeter, which needs a table, costs a lot and isnt really needed most of the times.
Great review video, thanks 👍🏻👍🏻 I've got an Aneng 8008 which I use for low voltage, hobby electronics and it's brilliant for that, but I wouldn't ever use it for mains voltage as I wouldn't trust the protection. I have a properly certified multimeter that I use if I'm touching mains. But I'm definitely going to pick up a Fluke 101 as the small, throw in the toolkit, meter that can be used for mains. Sadly as I'm in the UK 🇬🇧 I'll have to import it from the US as Fluke don't sell it over here for some reason. Anyway, thanks again for the great review.
The problem I often encounter with really long battery life devices is that the batteries start leaking well before it is used up. I tend to use the carbon zinc cells in these circumstances, they less likely leak for me.
Consider using low self discharge Nickle-Metal Hydride cells-they should work ok in this meter, and will not leak. On some other devices, the lower voltage can be a problem though.
@@m.k.8158 I do if the device accepts the lower voltage. On my uni-t, the low voltage means it doesn't use up the battery all that much. I ended up modifying it with a cmos 3.3V LDO and 10440 cell in the battery compartment. Lasts ages and pretty low self discharge too. Low battery indicator lights up at 2.5V perfect for the li-ion
Had mine for about 8 years. Used mainly for automotive electrics, and it's brilliant. Survives bouncing around in toolboxes, being dropped, keeps on trucking. Not great for sub-1-ohm measurements, but that's not the main goal.
I have the 107 and its fantastic! It has that "Fluke feel" of quality, is plenty accurate and very well design. The back light stays on a long time, unlike my Brayman's backlight, which is useless. And best of all (the main reason I bought it) its small enough to put in your pocket, even with the leads wrapped around. I use it as my field meter and for working on my car - anytime you need a handy portable meter. I even use it as a second meter on my bench. I love it. The 107 has current and extra features that the 101 does not, so it costs more, about $ 100 Yankey bucks.
I have a 107 for about 8 years. I bought in a sale for almost half mrsp. It is very good, ii use it almost every day. The magnetic strap lose It rubber but still in one piece. For bench use it is not the best, but it show his true value in the field, as it size is an huge advantage. Highly recommended
That "hook attachment point" looks perfect for a carrying strap that can hang from a wrist, wooden ladder or any other convenient place . Could even be a lanyard with snapoff coupling to avoid strangulation .
The first Fluke meter I would actually buy to have floating around the bench. Seems to be able to do 99% of the measurements I would need on a daily basis. The battery choice they made, I like it. I dont get why meters are still made with 9V blocks, so weird. The quality really impress on this small meter.
Those input jacks are skookum as frig, really well built. I have another budget Fluke, the 12E+, but as I have several multimeters it does not get used much. I mostly use it for mains electricity and tube amplifiers as I trust it, being a Fluke, albeit a cheap Chinese model, more than my other meters (Aneng, Zoyi, Uni-T etc.) when working on potentially dangerous voltages. I also use Flukes at work, though as a truck mechanic I mostly just measure stuff like 24V DC and continuity. And yes, compared to the cheaper meters the build quality on Flukes definitely feels more solid and trust-inspiring.
17:28 , very nice attention to detail, the LCD is squeezed against the board by 3 screw that are part of the whole assembly. No dodgy zebra strip that loose contact with such a solution. That on such things that you see the design quality.
I pulled the 101 out of my bag, and put in a UT211B. I've got the big boy Flukes available of course, but for the size, I prefer the UniT for daily carry.
How do you rate the Uni-t for build quality? I'm torn between a Zotek ZT303 for accuracy at about $40 or a Unit-t UT61B+ which is less accurate and costs about $65 but I think might possibly be better built, I'm talking reliability of the switch and input jacks mostly. The UNI-T does seem like a good choice for something well made but at a reasonable price.
Dave I noticed the laggy continuity test can be improved on the Aneng with fresh batteries. Possibly the same for the Fluke. Delay gets worse as the batteries drain. The capacitance test is also slower
This is the most outstanding review I've seen on the Fluke 101. I bought this same meter a few weeks ago and am very pleased and impressed with its build quality and capabilities as demonstrated in this video. It's quite a bargain for $43.
with this battery test, you can put one 3.7V lithium battery instead of two batteries I have a Fluke 107, as well as many other Flukes, excellent multimeters and I recommend it to everyone for purchase
I love my Fluke 101 (have it for 6 years now). I use it all the time. I have tons of other more advanced meters, but for a lot of things this little meter is good enough and is small and easy to carry. It's also so light and robust, you can just throw it about with no care in the world. It's bullet proof. Also like you confirmed, the batteries last forever. I've been teaching my 10 year old nephew about electronics and its his favorite meter to use as well. I'm actually just thinking about buying another one to gift it to him.
I've been looking for a pocket meter for a while but as an industrial electrician really wants something I can trust. I might have to try this out even though it doesn't have the cool form factor of the other options!
Here in Germany it costs 88€ on Amazon, it’s double the price you mentioned. Maybe it’s the case to look for something more expensive instead of that tiny thing ?
Right angle leads wrap around the meter bettter than straight leads... Those leads look cheap... but add a velcro wire wrap strap to the leads... and once the leads are wrapped around the metere... and the velcro strap is also wrapped around both... you have a meter with organized leads... ready at all times...
I got one of these as a gift at work, keep it in the trunk of my car used it a few dozen times, never had to replace the batteries ... i cant recommend it to anyone unless you work somewhere that requires you use a fluke, but i cant complain about it i do however keep the AN8008 as a quick pocketable meter to carry around the office and warehouse (if i dont want to take my still daily workhorse 121GW) with some custom rewired short probes and i love it, even the square wave generator in it has come in handy for testing stepper drivers and speakers
Looks like Fluke finally woke up to the fact that you cannot sell grossly overpriced testers forever. Still, for 40$ you can get an awesome noname tester with great precision.
I bought this as it was the cheapest Fluke available, and I didn't want to buy a $5 chinese meter. It's a workhorse in a troubleshooter's toolbox. The most frequently used feature by me is the beeper continuity tester option. I don't like to throw an expensive multimeter among the tools, and it's more than enough for daily measurements.
I have a pair of Fluke 8060a as well, and they are really cool old vintage meters. There is something satisfying about using them, I can't quite describe it. The screen contrast is also really good.
The Aneng may be cheap but from all the people I know who had one (the even cheaper, blue one) , the meters all died, some after not using them for a while. Mine still works, probably because I have never used it. Bought it out of curiosity and to make a video about it.
@@dunk8157 Mij oldest Fluke with a rotating switch is a 77-III, I have it now over almost 30 years and never had to clean the contacts, they do not need cleaning, they are gold plated and very well build. If the Aneng needs that within a year, then it is really crap. I repair measurement and calibration gear and never have seen Fluke switch problems except for a current clamp but that was because someone had lubed the switch.
I bought a brand new 87V for my bench at home and got tired of how greasy it became after needing to use it to work on cars. My solution to that problem was to buy a used/filthy 87V with a slightly damaged case from eBay to work in the garage. Love my 87Vs!
I first thought that the lack of screen light wouldn’t be an issue. I thought wrong. Climbing up under a vehicle dash and other dim lit areas, really sucks without a screen light.
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First thing i would do with this meter is ad some probe holders with SUGRU. Good to know they took their CAT rating seriously, with chinesium meters you never know.
The Fluke 101 is being sold here on Amazon France for 139€, Yes 139€. They also list the same model with the plastic stand for, wait for it, 172€. Not worth it here in Europe. 😞
Apparently, the Fluke warranty does not apply to these meters, unless you buy them directly from Fluke (and they don't sell the 101....only the 107 for $150).
The reason you buy this over a really budget meter is that you can trust it. Which is the exact reason you always buy a fluke or similarly nice meter. The last thing you want while troubleshooting is to question your equipment.
I've never been a brand fan boy . Give me good value, or I'm gone. Fluke fan boys always tout the robustness, but my $17 thsinde gets beat around constantly and continues to be my favorite for about 6 years. I've spent more money on replacement leads than the meter. My curiosity was peaked on mention of $42 Fluke. Then, promptly quelled when Dave said out right the Zotec beatt it.
I have quite a few different meters and the 101 is one of my favorites. It fits in the breast pocket of your shirt or jacket and is great for working at heights or odd areas. Anyone who doesn't like it has never done industrial work.
I’ve had one of these in my tool back for years for troubleshooting heating system wiring and components it’s been decent I got nice silicon leads for it the ones that come with it are very stiff
Nice meter, though I would say the next board revision will remove those pads, probably there to allow them to use the last batches of the regular programmed multimeter chipsets they had, before they went to the ready programmed bare dies and blob assembly. Respin the board and solder mask, to save that 0.1c of copper and ENIG on those pads, and soldermask to provide the protection. Seen that on buying cheap meters and other stuff, the later versions remove the chip outline, so they can use that board real estate as well, which sometimes means a board shrink as well, to get more out of the big sheet.
Not bad price for a toss around in the tool box multimeter. Whack in some AAA lithium's and no worries, it just gonna work. I have a Fluke 76 that I use out in the field that takes a licking and keeps on ticking; I really can't say much for my Timex watch though. Only issue I had with it is the banana post inside the main board needed some solder reflow to bring it back up to snuff. For its age, it still commands $100 USD in the decent pre-owned market.
I am also using Fluke 76 since mid 90s. Back then only hadful of meters had TRMS. Very nice and reliable meter, a real gem. Recently I compared it's readings with friend's Fluke 87V and they matched to the last digit.
I bought one 101 (35€) a few years ago and I used several times for all proposes and always works flawness with precision and no issues. Lather I sell it and bought a 175.
I got this thing years ago as my first professional multimeter (to try to keep things cheap to impress my manager). It was handy for a long time for me, right up until I learned what precision was 😁 Build quality was great though. And I feel like there's no reason that modern multimeters couldn't be that small with better performance.
Cheaper to buy this than to keep getting a more expensive one calibrated. I have clients that require calibration data for my DMMs. It rankles with me because none of the measurements I do on their equipment needs precision better than 1 volt . Calibrating a DMM here costs around $500 , I tell them that if they need calibration data they provide the DMM. They already do that for other test equipment such as temperature probes and pressure gauges. Obviously they are trying to off load the calibration cost onto me. I had another client with similar policies and used to by a new Jaycar $50 DMM every year to satisfy their requirements. They were fine with that because all their SOPs required was that DMMs needed to be calibrated every year and no mention was made about a new DMM. For my own purposes I check the DMMs against the output of an array of LT1021 and LT1027 precision voltage reference chips
Does make one wonder if they didn't include current measurement option because they've simply ran out of space to put in protection for that as well...
Well that and that a proper DMM fuse costs waaay too much for a $40 product. I’d be surprised if this meter cost $20 to make. A real DMM fuse, even at the massive volumes Fluke buys (which is why they can sell them in a 5-pack for about $7 each, while the same fuses, without the detour via Fluke, sell for $11-20), would add several dollars to the BOM cost.
I keep a Fluke 101 in my motorcycle luggage in case of emergencies. It's got everything I need for automotive debugging, and I know because it's a Fluke it'll work when I need it. For bench use? The lack of a current range, and weird AC-only mV range makes it a no-go. I have a couple AN8008s for my spare "I need an extra meter" tiny meters, on top of my daily use BK Precision and Brymen (BM235, of course) meters.
I love mine, does everything I need it to do. Got a nice hard side case for it on Amazon and it stays in the workshop. The Leads that I got are silicone and are great quality.
I have one as a second meter on the bench. Love it !! …. Although It doesn’t have the single blip in diode test mode, which would be a really useful addition in software.
I use this as an everyday carry in industrial automation. It fits my vest pocket with leads and the magnetic hanger and is very light. My bigger meters spend most of their time in the toolbox now. This has been a very reliable meter for basic troubleshooting work. Come to think of it, since owning it for about 4 years I have never changed the batteries!
Same. I carry it way more often than my 87 or 233. It's so nice for working in high areas where you just want to throw tools in your pocket and go.
The colour scheme of that box has serious "Multimeters for Dummies" vibes
Def, and those soft rubber corners screams soft head helmet, of course their all kinds like that. I like my 90 degree corners and boxey 80-90s cars, Soo maybe I'm biased, once my doctor says I can remove my helmet I'll let you know
Well it's the Multimeter 101, basically made for learning the basics.
Was going to say; "for $70 to AU$80 you can't beat an SCA (Super Cheap Auto) mini clamp meter (I've had 2 of em' for well over a decade) - but I just checked and it doesn't look like they sell that one any more...
But the good news is, it looks like they've superseded it with the ToolPro clamp meter for $69AU which appears to be slightly better. So I'd recommend IT over the (liver) Fluke for the same money.
It really does doesn’t it.
True!
I have a few and have been quite happy with them as basic quick trouble shooting meter where absolute accuracy is not my primary concern. My best guess on the AC only mA range is they have have it for use with AC only current clamps. Which are just current transformers with a small load resistor to turn the output into a small AC voltage. I would make some sense given that these were originally intended as low cost electrician/field tech meters for the Asian market.
I got a 107 in my garage toolbox, the backlight option is a "Must have" for a mechanic and those little Fluke are perfectly fit for this kind of work, I keep the 20K countdown unit for the lab were they belong! Nice review again mate! 👍
I like the separate AC and DC voltage measurement modes right on the dial!
Some compact meters only have one mode on the dial, and they default to AC mode, so you always have to separately select the DC mode. This can be a nuisance if you mainly happen to need the meter for DC measurements, like quick car diagnostics.
Even worse if the meter has a short and non-adjustable auto-off time, and then always defaults back to AC at power on, like my current one does...
The Fluke 80 series famously switched from default DC to default AC mode with the model III and it pissed a lot of people off.
Exactly how my uni-t 210 E and D are. Good thing it has been hacked in the eevblog forum I was able to change the default modes and set the backlight and auto off timers to hours.
@@quandiy5164 my 210E has been bugging me doing that, how hard is making the change?
@@Firecul you just need an arduino to read and edit the eeprom. There's a big thread on the forum on how to connect it. The confusing part was figuring out which values to swap but I eventually got it, there was a table in the datasheet showing which addresses correspond to what functions. I also did the 6000 count mod.
@@quandiy5164 That might be the 50+ page thread I found then.
I don't have an arduino actually, never needed one. A quick read though a couple of posts just made my head scramble. I'll keep it in mind but it's not as simple as I wanted lol
One day I may attempt it.
I bought this thing when you first talked about it a decade or so ago Dave. Been in the toolbag ever since and is my go to in the field. Tough little nugget.
Edit: As for the battery life, I think I replaced them once but I am honestly not sure.
That’s a cat buddy , don’t u oh china then it’s fake inside and out
This replaced my 87-V for field use about 4 years ago. No it's not an 87 but it's Fluke quality and does what it does well. I went with the 107 for the current scale. I don't think I have replaced the original batteries. I think mine came with the magnetic strap. As handy as the magnet can be, I always found it swinging around. So I cut the magnet off and glued it to the back of the 107. Perfect. Nice review Dave!
A tip for all you Fluke fan boys.
I you use your flukes in the field you know how the soft rubber yellow holster gets real grimy. And they just don't clean up well with any soap I've tried.
Try this, spray it with clothes stain remover and throw it in the washer, with other clothes. Mine is cleaner than new. Wow!
thanks
Bought this for my sons first tool kit. Great multimeter for learning basic home repairs.
Lack of a backlight is a bit of a shame. I love the AN8008 (still available by the way) as a secondary meter, I was working in a low light area the other day and its backlight is great. BM786 is my main meter of course :)
To get the backlight you have to pay up for the Fluke 107 for ~$100
@@julesdim1758 Yes - just watched a review on that one :)
My AN8008 lasted a month in my glovebox.
Went to grab it and found that the clear screen had broken down with the heat..
This video is a good reminder of how useful it is to have various generators and test references. They let you probe new products to get a more reliable idea of their specs and robustness.
John Smith did high voltage transient test with F101 and it survived with flying colours to thousands of volts on every mode.
As a hobbyist (basicly learned everything i know about EE by watching your channel for the last 8 years or so, and couple of other channels) I bought the Aneng 8008 when it was new and it's still working great and does everything i need it to do, it's all low voltage, like 12v max as my main interests are microcontrollers like esp32, arduinos etc ... However even though my Aneng can measure mains voltage, Im usually not comfortable using it to measure high voltages (and i try to not fuck around with high voltage) but now Im thinking about ordering this one for the few times I need to measure higher voltages and stuff like that .. Then i have the Aneng for it's features and keep using it as I currently do, but then i can have this one for it's protection when I need to measure high voltage knowing it wont damage my meter since I have a bit more faith in Fluke than Aneng ;) And buying a 2-400$ meter does not make alot of sens for me .. Win win
Make sure you get it from a reputable source, I'm sure the China Export squad already jumped on it to create a "FULKE" near exact copy minus the safety :)
I also bought an Aneng when Dave did his video on it, and I have found the range switch to be unreliable. After not using it awhile, a short will read as 10-20 ohms, for example. Switching it back and forth a bunch of times fixes it but it has caught me when I was using it to troubleshoot something (I use bench meters for most work). I think I would rather have a bulletproof range switch than features, since I only use it to test volts, ohms, and continuity anyway.
Curiously enough I've blown one of the cheapest analog meter on the market over my lap and... I SURVIVED. it didn't.
Honestly I don't know what kind of voltages you do plan to measure that any cheapo no-name multimeter couldn't handle. Perhaps people go around poking at 100odd kVolts transmission lines with one probe to the other!?
Only issue I've ever had with my 8008 was the piece of plastic that formed the screen and sat infront of the lcd turned opaque - probably a reacrtion to UV light - but other than that it'd been fine.
Mine works 100% , but the only "issue" i've had was that i broke the stand on the back of it , but kinda does not matter since it was pretty useless
I have several Flukes, including this, the 107, 115 and 117, plus the higher end types. For me though, the 101, 107 and the 115 and 117 have the best switch feel and action of any meter I've tried, regardless of price.
Yeah I have a Fluke 117. I don't regret buying it even though it's mega overkill lol
The mark on the back of the meter to the right of the CE mark is a CSA mark with C and US subscripts. This means it has been tested and is listed to Canadian and US (UL) standards. It has a similar meaning as a UL listed mark, but means it was tested and listed by CSA instead. Both are reputable and test to the same standards.
How about CCP certification standard. The organization is selected to certified EV for American Market for "Industrial Coloney" of China.
You might want to read a few Canadian websites about the CSA and it's "standards testing". Raises a lot of questions about them.
I have a working fluke 19 that I bought from the snap-on truck for about $130 in the mid to late nineties. It has served me very well and been used heaps.
Used this multimeter for a few years while working as a boat mechanic. I really like it. Packs small in a tool bag in a handy pouch (absolutely must get one with the meter). Works every time. Feels like a good quality meter.
One of the leads broke after about 1.5year of daily use, but still love it.
How submersible/moisture proof is it?
15:04 I kinda like how it smiles back at you when you take the cover off :)
I don't need another meter but I kind of do because of the size and I mainly deal in DC anyway.. the size, durability and quality is hard to pass on.. looks pretty accurate and covers 99% of what I would use it for. Thanks for reviewing and the battery of tests (pun intended), appreciate your detailed content.
I use this meter 5 days a week in a rough repair shop environment. Checking fuses, windings, bridge rectifiers, 120/240 v ac, 15 to 90 v dc and hertz. Works great, very durable.
I have the original Chinese 17B, which is supposed to be only sold in China. It was like 70€ some years ago and is a really great multimeter, built like a brick and with all the nice safety details for the original (as far as I can tell).
Bought my father one of these 10 years ago so I could have him diag stuff over the phone with me. Has been flawless. Worth its weight in gold when needed and easy to pack and carry around.
I had a Fluke 77 from 1989 and used it for decades until it got stolen a few years ago at work. The only problem I had is once in a while I had to take it apart due to a bad connection with the zebra strip and the knob would go past the end stop, but it was also dropped plenty of times. I also got a Fluke 87. While not the cheapest meters, you get your money's worth with how long they last and their quality is top-notch. At every company I've worked for in the tech industry, Fluke always seems to be the go-to brand. I agree with the PVC leads. I replaced the leads on my Flukes with some nice silicone gold-plated ones.
As a fire alarm technician I use this about every other day, and it’s perfectly accurate for the 12-24vdc market. I added a magnetic strap. Works for all the varied fire alarms /security systems / access control resistor values I see. I also have a 117 I use for automotive.
There is now a UL listed Uni-T UT131A. I picked one up for less than $25 out of curiosity because of the complete feature set. I wasn't expecting it to be this good and precise for the price. It might be the best beginner electronics multimiter out there now. Uni-T has not only improved in quality but they've been certifying a lot of their newer multimeters. It's worth getting your hands on one for a review. Many people would appreciate it, especially in countries where name brand multimeters like Flukes are really hard to find.
Thanks for the tip. They are now for 15 Eur on Reichelt. I wish I had known this few days ago when I order stuff from there.
@@JohnDoe-wb7ng No worries. If you're looking for a good cheap clampmeter, there's the Uni-T UT210E as well. This one's more talked about though, because of the 2A DC+AC range and accuracy. Perfect for electronics jobbies (though I've used it plenty for residential electrical work as well). I bought it together with the UT131A, no regrets, both amazing little meters.
@@silviustro1 This one I already have (UT210E). I agree that it is a trusty little friend!
My biggest problem with that meter is that it appears to only measure up to 250 volts. That's not enough for troubleshooting power supplies or for most tube based electronics.
I needed a multimeter that could A: measure capacitance incase my air conditioner takes a dump. B: accurately measure low voltage DC to calibrate my LiPo battery charger and drone radio. And C: do general purpose stuff whenever I need a meter, including building an FPV drone in the future. And this checks every box! Got it on the way. I never thought I'd ever own a Fluke brand meter
I have a Fluke 107 as a spare meter. It is a great multimeter. It is fantastic at measuring mV AC. I just wish that Fluke could measure DC mV as well. It's a very important frature in the industy I work in.
It might be a limited meter but I have limited use. It stays in my company van in a hard case with Brymen silicone leads. I use mine to verify wall socket power and some low resistance (down to 1R pass/fail component)measurements, which it does a great job. Not often used but always ready, getting fresh batteries every January as does all my battery powered TE.
Same here, but when I built custom lab equipment for serious research institutions and had 3 different separate meters on my bench, all fluke's, I decided to bring in my do it all multimeter to make my work easier, The head engineer told me I couldn't use it, and then I found out why we had so much fluke stuff, and other very expensive oscilloscopes, frequency counters... Because not only are they accurate, and can take a beating, but they stay stable no matter what the climate or how often you drop them. We even sent them in for recalibration and re-certification every 2 years.
We also had a lot of Hewlet Packard instrumentation from before the 80's that was high quality, some even programmable and could interface with each other and computers already in the late 60's! I have no clue why they dropped the entire line and went all in on crappy computers, but it turned out to be a bad move, and they got bought n' sold, sliced n' diced ever since, and into oblivion!
Not having amps can be kinda nice sometimes, honestly. Used to work at a hobby electronics store and got a couple dozen meters back every week from people claiming "it blew up and smoke came out". Everytime it was because they tried to measure a car battery on amps and blew the fuse because they used the wrong port. Store policy was anything returned below $150 had to be hit with a hammer and into the dumpster. Such a waste.
I absolutely love my Fluke 117. This looks like a very nice affordable option from Fluke - only disappointment for me is the continuity test not fast enough... Thanks for the review!
This has been my multimeter for the past 9 years. It's great. My tip to anyone with this meter is change your batteries every 2 years out of habit. Mine leaked everywhere and corroded my contacts. My screen has a dim area, so it's on borrowed time. Completely my fault though. It was great watching you put it through all that stress testing and pulling it apart - I have even more respect for my meter now.
Hi, suggest you use lithium non rechargeable batteries is all test kit, they are good for 8years plus without leaking so they will run out well before they leak, I've ran these in all my test kit for years after suffering from a few leaks in some of my expensive kit.
@@seanpduffyeng thanks, I think I will do that
I’ve had one of these for a couple years now and can confirm it’s skookum as frig. After my 35 year old radio shack meter gave up the ghost, I went through a couple cheap Chinese meters before settling on this as my handy quick check meter.
My radio shack went right rim the bin and I discovered Fluke.
This is one of the best reviews I've seen.
Subscribed.
After reviewing a ton of multimeters, you look as natural as the first day. Great work Dave!
I got one of these back in 2016 for 33 euro on Aliexpress. I have a Fluke 83 iii, 28 ii, 29mk1, 10 and a few others yet this is the one that sees most use. Probably the best buy ever and has held up really well. Might get a second one..
Wow. I don't think I have ever, in my life (aside from the stockyards in Ft. Worth, TX) heard this many words spoken in 26 minutes and 44 seconds. Wow. It is also very clear this gentleman has forgotten more about multimeters than I will ever, EVER know. Truly a Jedi Master of Multimeters. I'm still amazed at how deeply immersed I was in this video!
For the cheapo multimeters my "min requirement" is auto-off / battery safer.
Dont hate anything more then getting a multimeter for 8 bucks,
the bettery replacement costing 5 bucks,
and it can happen every week.
(i tend to use voltcraft / local cheap brand for CONRAD for students and small stuff)
edit: also handy to have some simple ones to just have multiple voltages shown at the same time,
without having to hoist around a chunky benchmultimeter, which needs a table, costs a lot and isnt really needed most of the times.
Beauty. Think I might pick one of these up to keep in the pocket for daily hvac maintenance in commercial stuff.
Great review video, thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
I've got an Aneng 8008 which I use for low voltage, hobby electronics and it's brilliant for that, but I wouldn't ever use it for mains voltage as I wouldn't trust the protection. I have a properly certified multimeter that I use if I'm touching mains. But I'm definitely going to pick up a Fluke 101 as the small, throw in the toolkit, meter that can be used for mains. Sadly as I'm in the UK 🇬🇧 I'll have to import it from the US as Fluke don't sell it over here for some reason. Anyway, thanks again for the great review.
The problem I often encounter with really long battery life devices is that the batteries start leaking well before it is used up. I tend to use the carbon zinc cells in these circumstances, they less likely leak for me.
Consider using low self discharge Nickle-Metal Hydride cells-they should work ok in this meter, and will not leak.
On some other devices, the lower voltage can be a problem though.
@@m.k.8158 I do if the device accepts the lower voltage. On my uni-t, the low voltage means it doesn't use up the battery all that much. I ended up modifying it with a cmos 3.3V LDO and 10440 cell in the battery compartment. Lasts ages and pretty low self discharge too. Low battery indicator lights up at 2.5V perfect for the li-ion
Had mine for about 8 years. Used mainly for automotive electrics, and it's brilliant. Survives bouncing around in toolboxes, being dropped, keeps on trucking. Not great for sub-1-ohm measurements, but that's not the main goal.
I have the 107 and its fantastic! It has that "Fluke feel" of quality, is plenty accurate and very well design. The back light stays on a long time, unlike my Brayman's backlight, which is useless. And best of all (the main reason I bought it) its small enough to put in your pocket, even with the leads wrapped around. I use it as my field meter and for working on my car - anytime you need a handy portable meter. I even use it as a second meter on my bench. I love it. The 107 has current and extra features that the 101 does not, so it costs more, about $ 100 Yankey bucks.
I have a 107 for about 8 years. I bought in a sale for almost half mrsp. It is very good, ii use it almost every day. The magnetic strap lose It rubber but still in one piece. For bench use it is not the best, but it show his true value in the field, as it size is an huge advantage. Highly recommended
That "hook attachment point" looks perfect for a carrying strap that can hang from a wrist, wooden ladder or any other convenient place . Could even be a lanyard with snapoff coupling to avoid strangulation .
The first Fluke meter I would actually buy to have floating around the bench. Seems to be able to do 99% of the measurements I would need on a daily basis. The battery choice they made, I like it. I dont get why meters are still made with 9V blocks, so weird. The quality really impress on this small meter.
9V are double insulated to prevent or at least reduce the amount of damage if cells leak.
Those input jacks are skookum as frig, really well built. I have another budget Fluke, the 12E+, but as I have several multimeters it does not get used much. I mostly use it for mains electricity and tube amplifiers as I trust it, being a Fluke, albeit a cheap Chinese model, more than my other meters (Aneng, Zoyi, Uni-T etc.) when working on potentially dangerous voltages. I also use Flukes at work, though as a truck mechanic I mostly just measure stuff like 24V DC and continuity. And yes, compared to the cheaper meters the build quality on Flukes definitely feels more solid and trust-inspiring.
17:28 , very nice attention to detail, the LCD is squeezed against the board by 3 screw that are part of the whole assembly. No dodgy zebra strip that loose contact with such a solution.
That on such things that you see the design quality.
I pulled the 101 out of my bag, and put in a UT211B. I've got the big boy Flukes available of course, but for the size, I prefer the UniT for daily carry.
How do you rate the Uni-t for build quality? I'm torn between a Zotek ZT303 for accuracy at about $40 or a Unit-t UT61B+ which is less accurate and costs about $65 but I think might possibly be better built, I'm talking reliability of the switch and input jacks mostly. The UNI-T does seem like a good choice for something well made but at a reasonable price.
@@dunk8157 I haven't had any issues with the jacks or the range switch, but at this price point, for any professional, just buy a backup or two.
Dave I noticed the laggy continuity test can be improved on the Aneng with fresh batteries. Possibly the same for the Fluke. Delay gets worse as the batteries drain. The capacitance test is also slower
Fluke 17/19 is made by Uni-t back in 20th/21st century. I bought a 19 in 2000, it is very impressive. Still works today.
This is the most outstanding review I've seen on the Fluke 101. I bought this same meter a few weeks ago and am very pleased and impressed with its build quality and capabilities as demonstrated in this video. It's quite a bargain for $43.
A few years ago I bought the Fluke 17B from Banggood for 85 Euro, much better priced than any other model that was available in the EU.
Bangood is usually not reputable
Ah the days before inflation.
Since it apparently works at up to 4.2V without issues, I'd really like to see a LiIon cell in the next revision of that meter..
Why bother? According to Dave’s power consumption readings you could use it 40hrs a week for five months before the alkaline cells die
@@Turbochargedtwelve yeah, the batteries last forever on this meter. There is really no point.
It would be nice to have a meter made in a country that wasn't trying to kill us.
Most of the stuff imported to the west is made in china, Taiwan,Korea etc.scary!
with this battery test, you can put one 3.7V lithium battery instead of two batteries
I have a Fluke 107, as well as many other Flukes, excellent multimeters and I recommend it to everyone for purchase
I love my Fluke 101 (have it for 6 years now). I use it all the time. I have tons of other more advanced meters, but for a lot of things this little meter is good enough and is small and easy to carry. It's also so light and robust, you can just throw it about with no care in the world. It's bullet proof. Also like you confirmed, the batteries last forever. I've been teaching my 10 year old nephew about electronics and its his favorite meter to use as well. I'm actually just thinking about buying another one to gift it to him.
I've been looking for a pocket meter for a while but as an industrial electrician really wants something I can trust. I might have to try this out even though it doesn't have the cool form factor of the other options!
Here in Germany it costs 88€ on Amazon, it’s double the price you mentioned. Maybe it’s the case to look for something more expensive instead of that tiny thing ?
I agree its a stupid price for such a basic made in China meter. Buy a Zotek / Uni-t or Aneng and save the money.
Right angle leads wrap around the meter bettter than straight leads...
Those leads look cheap... but add a velcro wire wrap strap to the leads... and once the leads are wrapped around the metere... and the velcro strap is also wrapped around both... you have a meter with organized leads... ready at all times...
I got one of these as a gift at work, keep it in the trunk of my car
used it a few dozen times, never had to replace the batteries ... i cant recommend it to anyone unless you work somewhere that requires you use a fluke, but i cant complain about it
i do however keep the AN8008 as a quick pocketable meter to carry around the office and warehouse (if i dont want to take my still daily workhorse 121GW) with some custom rewired short probes and i love it, even the square wave generator in it has come in handy for testing stepper drivers and speakers
Looks like Fluke finally woke up to the fact that you cannot sell grossly overpriced testers forever. Still, for 40$ you can get an awesome noname tester with great precision.
I like how the case is so tough it is magic smoke proof - what a champion.
I bought this as it was the cheapest Fluke available, and I didn't want to buy a $5 chinese meter. It's a workhorse in a troubleshooter's toolbox. The most frequently used feature by me is the beeper continuity tester option. I don't like to throw an expensive multimeter among the tools, and it's more than enough for daily measurements.
I am still using my fathers hand-me down Fluke 8060, the old gray side buttons model. still works great
I have a pair of Fluke 8060a as well, and they are really cool old vintage meters. There is something satisfying about using them, I can't quite describe it. The screen contrast is also really good.
I love how energetic he sounds. He sounds like a Saturday morning cartoon dad I love it.
The Aneng may be cheap but from all the people I know who had one (the even cheaper, blue one) , the meters all died, some after not using them for a while. Mine still works, probably because I have never used it. Bought it out of curiosity and to make a video about it.
Contact cleaner on the range switch tracks should fix that?
Clean and lube the gold contact tracks and switch wipers, its easy to take them apart, even the old flukes need to have this done after a while.
@@dunk8157 Mij oldest Fluke with a rotating switch is a 77-III, I have it now over almost 30 years and never had to clean the contacts, they do not need cleaning, they are gold plated and very well build. If the Aneng needs that within a year, then it is really crap. I repair measurement and calibration gear and never have seen Fluke switch problems except for a current clamp but that was because someone had lubed the switch.
I have one in my shop. No regrets. Now my 87V stays cleaner!
I bought a brand new 87V for my bench at home and got tired of how greasy it became after needing to use it to work on cars. My solution to that problem was to buy a used/filthy 87V with a slightly damaged case from eBay to work in the garage. Love my 87Vs!
I first thought that the lack of screen light wouldn’t be an issue.
I thought wrong. Climbing up under a vehicle dash and other dim lit areas, really sucks without a screen light.
First thing i would do with this meter is ad some probe holders with SUGRU. Good to know they took their CAT rating seriously, with chinesium meters you never know.
I reviewed the 117 a year or so ago, put it through its paces on my calibrators, it performed well as expected.
@17:42 after two years mine died. Popped in open and cleaned up those battery pads. Good as new.
The Fluke 101 is being sold here on Amazon France for 139€, Yes 139€. They also list the same model with the plastic stand for, wait for it, 172€. Not worth it here in Europe. 😞
Payé 51€ sur ebay la semaine derniere, envoi gratuit et TVA incluse
Apparently, the Fluke warranty does not apply to these meters, unless you buy them directly from Fluke (and they don't sell the 101....only the 107 for $150).
After seeing the victorinox knife and PB screwdriver, I'm going to trust you on this fluke review. Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
The reason you buy this over a really budget meter is that you can trust it. Which is the exact reason you always buy a fluke or similarly nice meter. The last thing you want while troubleshooting is to question your equipment.
I've never been a brand fan boy . Give me good value, or I'm gone. Fluke fan boys always tout the robustness, but my $17 thsinde gets beat around constantly and continues to be my favorite for about 6 years. I've spent more money on replacement leads than the meter.
My curiosity was peaked on mention of $42 Fluke. Then, promptly quelled when Dave said out right the Zotec beatt it.
I have quite a few different meters and the 101 is one of my favorites. It fits in the breast pocket of your shirt or jacket and is great for working at heights or odd areas. Anyone who doesn't like it has never done industrial work.
I've had a 115 (add a backlight and 10a capacity) for about 20 years now. It's never failed when sent in for calibration.
Quality FR4 boards have quite the distinguishable shine to them indeed.
I’ve had one of these in my tool back for years for troubleshooting heating system wiring and components it’s been decent I got nice silicon leads for it the ones that come with it are very stiff
Nice meter, though I would say the next board revision will remove those pads, probably there to allow them to use the last batches of the regular programmed multimeter chipsets they had, before they went to the ready programmed bare dies and blob assembly. Respin the board and solder mask, to save that 0.1c of copper and ENIG on those pads, and soldermask to provide the protection. Seen that on buying cheap meters and other stuff, the later versions remove the chip outline, so they can use that board real estate as well, which sometimes means a board shrink as well, to get more out of the big sheet.
I suspect those pads would very likely be for the storage of calibration parameters in the EEPROM as part of the production process.
Hey Dave,
Have you ever done a video on using some of these off the shelf multimeter components to design a multimeter from scratch?
Awesome video, you sold me on this cheap little meter for a sold backup/home tool box!
Not bad price for a toss around in the tool box multimeter. Whack in some AAA lithium's and no worries, it just gonna work. I have a Fluke 76 that I use out in the field that takes a licking and keeps on ticking; I really can't say much for my Timex watch though. Only issue I had with it is the banana post inside the main board needed some solder reflow to bring it back up to snuff. For its age, it still commands $100 USD in the decent pre-owned market.
I am also using Fluke 76 since mid 90s. Back then only hadful of meters had TRMS. Very nice and reliable meter, a real gem. Recently I compared it's readings with friend's Fluke 87V and they matched to the last digit.
Nice: SMD power resistor R32 installed over a hole in PCB for better cooling.
I bought one 101 (35€) a few years ago and I used several times for all proposes and always works flawness with precision and no issues. Lather I sell it and bought a 175.
Production manager at my workplace responsible for purchase of dmms for production: hold my beer
I got this thing years ago as my first professional multimeter (to try to keep things cheap to impress my manager).
It was handy for a long time for me, right up until I learned what precision was 😁
Build quality was great though. And I feel like there's no reason that modern multimeters couldn't be that small with better performance.
i bought this a couple of years ago and use it 99% of the time. excellent meter.
A brave man's drinking game: have a sip every time he says the word Fluke.
Challenge accepted. I have a working Fluke 19. Has worked flawlessly since I bought it new.
Covid inactivity/battery leak killed my Fluke 77. My main ride is now an affordable UNI-T UT210D. Current is measured via a clamp both AC and DC.
Cheaper to buy this than to keep getting a more expensive one calibrated.
I have clients that require calibration data for my DMMs. It rankles with me because none of the measurements I do on their equipment needs precision better than 1 volt . Calibrating a DMM here costs around $500 , I tell them that if they need calibration data they provide the DMM. They already do that for other test equipment such as temperature probes and pressure gauges. Obviously they are trying to off load the calibration cost onto me.
I had another client with similar policies and used to by a new Jaycar $50 DMM every year to satisfy their requirements. They were fine with that because all their SOPs required was that DMMs needed to be calibrated every year and no mention was made about a new DMM.
For my own purposes I check the DMMs against the output of an array of LT1021 and LT1027 precision voltage reference chips
Does make one wonder if they didn't include current measurement option because they've simply ran out of space to put in protection for that as well...
Well that and that a proper DMM fuse costs waaay too much for a $40 product. I’d be surprised if this meter cost $20 to make. A real DMM fuse, even at the massive volumes Fluke buys (which is why they can sell them in a 5-pack for about $7 each, while the same fuses, without the detour via Fluke, sell for $11-20), would add several dollars to the BOM cost.
I keep a Fluke 101 in my motorcycle luggage in case of emergencies. It's got everything I need for automotive debugging, and I know because it's a Fluke it'll work when I need it.
For bench use? The lack of a current range, and weird AC-only mV range makes it a no-go. I have a couple AN8008s for my spare "I need an extra meter" tiny meters, on top of my daily use BK Precision and Brymen (BM235, of course) meters.
I love mine, does everything I need it to do. Got a nice hard side case for it on Amazon and it stays in the workshop. The Leads that I got are silicone and are great quality.
I have one as a second meter on the bench. Love it !! …. Although It doesn’t have the single blip in diode test mode, which would be a really useful addition in software.
Dave, you were too kind on the continuity tester. I missed the wah wah wah it deserved.😁
Might be a worthwhile investment for my work tool kit if my old cheapie ever breaks. I never use a current range at work so it's a good fit. 👍
I use that ANENG version been very happy with it.
I have the 107 and this was a great review and thanks for doing this video can be a cheap price but not junk.. worth owning