I got a 107 in my garage toolbox, the backlight option is a "Must have" for a mechanic and those little Fluke are perfectly fit for this kind of work, I keep the 20K countdown unit for the lab were they belong! Nice review again mate! 👍
Def, and those soft rubber corners screams soft head helmet, of course their all kinds like that. I like my 90 degree corners and boxey 80-90s cars, Soo maybe I'm biased, once my doctor says I can remove my helmet I'll let you know
Was going to say; "for $70 to AU$80 you can't beat an SCA (Super Cheap Auto) mini clamp meter (I've had 2 of em' for well over a decade) - but I just checked and it doesn't look like they sell that one any more... But the good news is, it looks like they've superseded it with the ToolPro clamp meter for $69AU which appears to be slightly better. So I'd recommend IT over the (liver) Fluke for the same money.
I use this meter 5 days a week in a rough repair shop environment. Checking fuses, windings, bridge rectifiers, 120/240 v ac, 15 to 90 v dc and hertz. Works great, very durable.
I bought this thing when you first talked about it a decade or so ago Dave. Been in the toolbag ever since and is my go to in the field. Tough little nugget. Edit: As for the battery life, I think I replaced them once but I am honestly not sure.
As a fire alarm technician I use this about every other day, and it’s perfectly accurate for the 12-24vdc market. I added a magnetic strap. Works for all the varied fire alarms /security systems / access control resistor values I see. I also have a 117 I use for automotive.
It might be a limited meter but I have limited use. It stays in my company van in a hard case with Brymen silicone leads. I use mine to verify wall socket power and some low resistance (down to 1R pass/fail component)measurements, which it does a great job. Not often used but always ready, getting fresh batteries every January as does all my battery powered TE.
Same here, but when I built custom lab equipment for serious research institutions and had 3 different separate meters on my bench, all fluke's, I decided to bring in my do it all multimeter to make my work easier, The head engineer told me I couldn't use it, and then I found out why we had so much fluke stuff, and other very expensive oscilloscopes, frequency counters... Because not only are they accurate, and can take a beating, but they stay stable no matter what the climate or how often you drop them. We even sent them in for recalibration and re-certification every 2 years. We also had a lot of Hewlet Packard instrumentation from before the 80's that was high quality, some even programmable and could interface with each other and computers already in the late 60's! I have no clue why they dropped the entire line and went all in on crappy computers, but it turned out to be a bad move, and they got bought n' sold, sliced n' diced ever since, and into oblivion!
I needed a multimeter that could A: measure capacitance incase my air conditioner takes a dump. B: accurately measure low voltage DC to calibrate my LiPo battery charger and drone radio. And C: do general purpose stuff whenever I need a meter, including building an FPV drone in the future. And this checks every box! Got it on the way. I never thought I'd ever own a Fluke brand meter
I’ve had one of these for a couple years now and can confirm it’s skookum as frig. After my 35 year old radio shack meter gave up the ghost, I went through a couple cheap Chinese meters before settling on this as my handy quick check meter.
I have a 107 for about 8 years. I bought in a sale for almost half mrsp. It is very good, ii use it almost every day. The magnetic strap lose It rubber but still in one piece. For bench use it is not the best, but it show his true value in the field, as it size is an huge advantage. Highly recommended
I got one of these back in 2016 for 33 euro on Aliexpress. I have a Fluke 83 iii, 28 ii, 29mk1, 10 and a few others yet this is the one that sees most use. Probably the best buy ever and has held up really well. Might get a second one..
Right angle leads wrap around the meter bettter than straight leads... Those leads look cheap... but add a velcro wire wrap strap to the leads... and once the leads are wrapped around the metere... and the velcro strap is also wrapped around both... you have a meter with organized leads... ready at all times...
Apparently, the Fluke warranty does not apply to these meters, unless you buy them directly from Fluke (and they don't sell the 101....only the 107 for $150).
with this battery test, you can put one 3.7V lithium battery instead of two batteries I have a Fluke 107, as well as many other Flukes, excellent multimeters and I recommend it to everyone for purchase
I've had a 115 (add a backlight and 10a capacity) for about 20 years now. It's never failed when sent in for calibration.
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First thing i would do with this meter is ad some probe holders with SUGRU. Good to know they took their CAT rating seriously, with chinesium meters you never know.
I pulled the 101 out of my bag, and put in a UT211B. I've got the big boy Flukes available of course, but for the size, I prefer the UniT for daily carry.
How do you rate the Uni-t for build quality? I'm torn between a Zotek ZT303 for accuracy at about $40 or a Unit-t UT61B+ which is less accurate and costs about $65 but I think might possibly be better built, I'm talking reliability of the switch and input jacks mostly. The UNI-T does seem like a good choice for something well made but at a reasonable price.
I have a pair of Fluke 8060a as well, and they are really cool old vintage meters. There is something satisfying about using them, I can't quite describe it. The screen contrast is also really good.
I love my Fluke 101 (have it for 6 years now). I use it all the time. I have tons of other more advanced meters, but for a lot of things this little meter is good enough and is small and easy to carry. It's also so light and robust, you can just throw it about with no care in the world. It's bullet proof. Also like you confirmed, the batteries last forever. I've been teaching my 10 year old nephew about electronics and its his favorite meter to use as well. I'm actually just thinking about buying another one to gift it to him.
This has been my multimeter for the past 9 years. It's great. My tip to anyone with this meter is change your batteries every 2 years out of habit. Mine leaked everywhere and corroded my contacts. My screen has a dim area, so it's on borrowed time. Completely my fault though. It was great watching you put it through all that stress testing and pulling it apart - I have even more respect for my meter now.
Hi, suggest you use lithium non rechargeable batteries is all test kit, they are good for 8years plus without leaking so they will run out well before they leak, I've ran these in all my test kit for years after suffering from a few leaks in some of my expensive kit.
I have one as a second meter on the bench. Love it !! …. Although It doesn’t have the single blip in diode test mode, which would be a really useful addition in software.
At the price point mentioned, it looks like they may be going after the "hardware store" market. The big guy there is Klein tools (at least at Home Depot). Of course to do that they might need a pouch, and possibly an AC clamp-on ammeter accessory. Me? I've got a (over quarter century) old Radio Shack thing that for what I do (non-precision work!) is adequate for things.
I bought a brand new 87V for my bench at home and got tired of how greasy it became after needing to use it to work on cars. My solution to that problem was to buy a used/filthy 87V with a slightly damaged case from eBay to work in the garage. Love my 87Vs!
The reason you buy this over a really budget meter is that you can trust it. Which is the exact reason you always buy a fluke or similarly nice meter. The last thing you want while troubleshooting is to question your equipment.
The Aneng may be cheap but from all the people I know who had one (the even cheaper, blue one) , the meters all died, some after not using them for a while. Mine still works, probably because I have never used it. Bought it out of curiosity and to make a video about it.
@@dunk8157 Mij oldest Fluke with a rotating switch is a 77-III, I have it now over almost 30 years and never had to clean the contacts, they do not need cleaning, they are gold plated and very well build. If the Aneng needs that within a year, then it is really crap. I repair measurement and calibration gear and never have seen Fluke switch problems except for a current clamp but that was because someone had lubed the switch.
My philosophy has always been to never buy a cheap product from a brand that is known for making good stuff- you just end up over-paying for generic items just because they have a brand name, and/or if they make their own, it won't be half as good as the stuff from the 'cheap' company. If you want cheap, buy from a bargain brand; it'll be half the price, and just as good as the cheapo from the 'good' company, or [usually] better; and that appears to be the case here with Fluke. I had bought a cheap Fluke at Lowe's years ago...I quickly returned it and replaced it with a $5 Harbor Freight MM. I'm about to upgrade from the Harbor Freight to a c. $25 Amazon Chinese special (I'll take a look at that Zotek).
The 101 is about 120 Euro's here in the Netherlands, not as cheap as I would like it to be. I'm now looking for something like the AN8008/8009 which shows some negative reviews of it not working properly at all. I'm not sure what to do now... maybe buy a second hand fluke.
Well worth the money to have something that gives trustable measurements, those that bought vici and similar crap should buy this instead of wiggling their vici range switch and probe plugs to try to get a decent reading every measurement
I have the 106, the main issue to me is no stand/support, especially with the supplied rubbish PVC leads, it just rolls around. I got sillycone ones, way better, but still no real way to support it on a job You can get a velcro stand, but that costs almost as much as the meter itself. Still trying to think of a retro fit something, love any suggestions...
I have a 107 (which I imagine is very similar to a 101) and it is absolutely horrible. I basically just keep it in my car for emergencies because the continuity (beep) mode was so unbelievably quiet/unresponsive and (if I recall correctly) its time to read an accurate resistance reading was super pathetic. My AN8008 is a significantly better meter if you ignore robustness and viewing angle...and you only consider speed and trusting the measurement your equipment. If you have to wait a random number of seconds to get an accurate measurement, how do you know when your measurement is correct? I'm honestly embarrassed that I own the 107. I've though about simply smashing and discarding it so others wouldn't have to deal with how pathetic it was, but I can't bring myself to do it.
Around at 11:10, this Fluke 101 is well surviving under the 1,200V surge and Dave is saying "no worries!". What about other cheaper multimeters from Aneng or ZOYI? Did any of them (Aneng / AOYI) make magic smokes under 1,200V?
Dave did test the Aneng and it survived the rated tests, but he gives them a very big voltage and then they die, but its much more than they would get in real life.
Re: lithium. If one was to change battery chemistry in the meter, would they compromise any of the performance/safety ratings? I've wondered this for a long time and had hacked my 289 to run on lithium cells before having doubts and reverting back to alkaline cells. Or maybe nimh eneloops. Hmm
Neither of the non-bargraph molasses rate Flukes were ever really all that expensive. Glad they made these cheap ones though that you can be safe knowing you won't get blown up. Thats the only main thing really here. EDIT: its the stuff you can easily leave in your work truck without too much worry. Also the CSA rating is equiv or better to any UL thing.
I own 5 flukes ranging from 450 to a $1000 each, and 2 Fieldpieces for which I think I paid less than 400 for each. I can't imagine the utility of a $42 multimeter.
Bought it excited, but lasted no more than 4 months. It just decided one day to never turn back on. No leaky batteries, white smoke, just died. And I payed $110. Boo this meter
Glad to see that klein in the video. Its ip67 and takes a beating. Its my meter of choice for offroad rescues. People get themselves into trouble far away from civilization and rescues can take a long time. A meter that doesnt need to be treated with care or protected from the rain etc is a huge plus when you are tired and cold and just want to go home.
I use this as an everyday carry in industrial automation. It fits my vest pocket with leads and the magnetic hanger and is very light. My bigger meters spend most of their time in the toolbox now. This has been a very reliable meter for basic troubleshooting work. Come to think of it, since owning it for about 4 years I have never changed the batteries!
I have a few and have been quite happy with them as basic quick trouble shooting meter where absolute accuracy is not my primary concern. My best guess on the AC only mA range is they have have it for use with AC only current clamps. Which are just current transformers with a small load resistor to turn the output into a small AC voltage. I would make some sense given that these were originally intended as low cost electrician/field tech meters for the Asian market.
I like the separate AC and DC voltage measurement modes right on the dial! Some compact meters only have one mode on the dial, and they default to AC mode, so you always have to separately select the DC mode. This can be a nuisance if you mainly happen to need the meter for DC measurements, like quick car diagnostics. Even worse if the meter has a short and non-adjustable auto-off time, and then always defaults back to AC at power on, like my current one does...
Exactly how my uni-t 210 E and D are. Good thing it has been hacked in the eevblog forum I was able to change the default modes and set the backlight and auto off timers to hours.
@@Firecul you just need an arduino to read and edit the eeprom. There's a big thread on the forum on how to connect it. The confusing part was figuring out which values to swap but I eventually got it, there was a table in the datasheet showing which addresses correspond to what functions. I also did the 6000 count mod.
@@quandiy5164 That might be the 50+ page thread I found then. I don't have an arduino actually, never needed one. A quick read though a couple of posts just made my head scramble. I'll keep it in mind but it's not as simple as I wanted lol One day I may attempt it.
This replaced my 87-V for field use about 4 years ago. No it's not an 87 but it's Fluke quality and does what it does well. I went with the 107 for the current scale. I don't think I have replaced the original batteries. I think mine came with the magnetic strap. As handy as the magnet can be, I always found it swinging around. So I cut the magnet off and glued it to the back of the 107. Perfect. Nice review Dave! A tip for all you Fluke fan boys. I you use your flukes in the field you know how the soft rubber yellow holster gets real grimy. And they just don't clean up well with any soap I've tried. Try this, spray it with clothes stain remover and throw it in the washer, with other clothes. Mine is cleaner than new. Wow!
I have several Flukes, including this, the 107, 115 and 117, plus the higher end types. For me though, the 101, 107 and the 115 and 117 have the best switch feel and action of any meter I've tried, regardless of price.
The mark on the back of the meter to the right of the CE mark is a CSA mark with C and US subscripts. This means it has been tested and is listed to Canadian and US (UL) standards. It has a similar meaning as a UL listed mark, but means it was tested and listed by CSA instead. Both are reputable and test to the same standards.
No ya didnt break anything, thats where the molding sprue from the injection molding machine is located - where it injects the plastic, it has to be cut or broken off after being removed from the molding machine - I ran plastic injection molding machines for 15 years, broke/cut off (a lot) of sprues in that 15 years.
Lack of a backlight is a bit of a shame. I love the AN8008 (still available by the way) as a secondary meter, I was working in a low light area the other day and its backlight is great. BM786 is my main meter of course :)
Not having amps can be kinda nice sometimes, honestly. Used to work at a hobby electronics store and got a couple dozen meters back every week from people claiming "it blew up and smoke came out". Everytime it was because they tried to measure a car battery on amps and blew the fuse because they used the wrong port. Store policy was anything returned below $150 had to be hit with a hammer and into the dumpster. Such a waste.
For the cheapo multimeters my "min requirement" is auto-off / battery safer. Dont hate anything more then getting a multimeter for 8 bucks, the bettery replacement costing 5 bucks, and it can happen every week. (i tend to use voltcraft / local cheap brand for CONRAD for students and small stuff) edit: also handy to have some simple ones to just have multiple voltages shown at the same time, without having to hoist around a chunky benchmultimeter, which needs a table, costs a lot and isnt really needed most of the times.
Dave, why are you always kicking Fluke meters to death? Why don't you give your Bryman meters the "Drop" test...Or the "Swim" test...That you did on the Flukes?
Looks like Fluke finally woke up to the fact that you cannot sell grossly overpriced testers forever. Still, for 40$ you can get an awesome noname tester with great precision.
The Fluke 101 is being sold here on Amazon France for 139€, Yes 139€. They also list the same model with the plastic stand for, wait for it, 172€. Not worth it here in Europe. 😞
No current range but has a largely pointless (for most people) capacitance an Hz range F**k that and why is Flukes continuity detection still so shit?. You're buying a crap meter just to get the Fluke name.
Here in Germany it costs 88€ on Amazon, it’s double the price you mentioned. Maybe it’s the case to look for something more expensive instead of that tiny thing ?
I have the original Chinese 17B, which is supposed to be only sold in China. It was like 70€ some years ago and is a really great multimeter, built like a brick and with all the nice safety details for the original (as far as I can tell).
I've never been a brand fan boy . Give me good value, or I'm gone. Fluke fan boys always tout the robustness, but my $17 thsinde gets beat around constantly and continues to be my favorite for about 6 years. I've spent more money on replacement leads than the meter. My curiosity was peaked on mention of $42 Fluke. Then, promptly quelled when Dave said out right the Zotec beatt it.
I have a Fluke 107 as a spare meter. It is a great multimeter. It is fantastic at measuring mV AC. I just wish that Fluke could measure DC mV as well. It's a very important frature in the industy I work in.
Hello sir, could you please review LCR meters again? It's been a long time since you reviewed. I am thinking about getting the DE-5000, for a small hobbyist lab.
As a hobbyist (basicly learned everything i know about EE by watching your channel for the last 8 years or so, and couple of other channels) I bought the Aneng 8008 when it was new and it's still working great and does everything i need it to do, it's all low voltage, like 12v max as my main interests are microcontrollers like esp32, arduinos etc ... However even though my Aneng can measure mains voltage, Im usually not comfortable using it to measure high voltages (and i try to not fuck around with high voltage) but now Im thinking about ordering this one for the few times I need to measure higher voltages and stuff like that .. Then i have the Aneng for it's features and keep using it as I currently do, but then i can have this one for it's protection when I need to measure high voltage knowing it wont damage my meter since I have a bit more faith in Fluke than Aneng ;) And buying a 2-400$ meter does not make alot of sens for me .. Win win
Make sure you get it from a reputable source, I'm sure the China Export squad already jumped on it to create a "FULKE" near exact copy minus the safety :)
I also bought an Aneng when Dave did his video on it, and I have found the range switch to be unreliable. After not using it awhile, a short will read as 10-20 ohms, for example. Switching it back and forth a bunch of times fixes it but it has caught me when I was using it to troubleshoot something (I use bench meters for most work). I think I would rather have a bulletproof range switch than features, since I only use it to test volts, ohms, and continuity anyway.
Curiously enough I've blown one of the cheapest analog meter on the market over my lap and... I SURVIVED. it didn't. Honestly I don't know what kind of voltages you do plan to measure that any cheapo no-name multimeter couldn't handle. Perhaps people go around poking at 100odd kVolts transmission lines with one probe to the other!?
Only issue I've ever had with my 8008 was the piece of plastic that formed the screen and sat infront of the lcd turned opaque - probably a reacrtion to UV light - but other than that it'd been fine.
I don't need another meter but I kind of do because of the size and I mainly deal in DC anyway.. the size, durability and quality is hard to pass on.. looks pretty accurate and covers 99% of what I would use it for. Thanks for reviewing and the battery of tests (pun intended), appreciate your detailed content.
I prefer dmm which dont measure currnt as one can end up burning internal fuses if one accidentaaly one leaves out the probes in current position and end up measuring voltage!! Fluke 101 is great tool considering the probes from fluke cost mose than 40 bucks. I have two of these fluke 101. yes the only downside is it cant do DC millivolt range. Yes the capacitance measurement is slowwwwwww...
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Klein Tools MM325 is better in every way and cheaper.
Seriously? This must be an ad payed for by Fluke... Own several Fluke meters and yes they have been performing mostly nice over time, but the world has evolved. The brand premium has vanished completely. They're slow in resolving issues, it takes literally years before they get addressed if at all. Effective safety is certainly a thing, but other brands have that too. Do not start me on the feature/cost ratio. Since I started looking at equipment from other manufacturers I don't think I'll ever return to Fluke anymore, the price cannot be justified anymore, sorry.
I first thought that the lack of screen light wouldn’t be an issue. I thought wrong. Climbing up under a vehicle dash and other dim lit areas, really sucks without a screen light.
Great review video, thanks 👍🏻👍🏻 I've got an Aneng 8008 which I use for low voltage, hobby electronics and it's brilliant for that, but I wouldn't ever use it for mains voltage as I wouldn't trust the protection. I have a properly certified multimeter that I use if I'm touching mains. But I'm definitely going to pick up a Fluke 101 as the small, throw in the toolkit, meter that can be used for mains. Sadly as I'm in the UK 🇬🇧 I'll have to import it from the US as Fluke don't sell it over here for some reason. Anyway, thanks again for the great review.
I got a 107 in my garage toolbox, the backlight option is a "Must have" for a mechanic and those little Fluke are perfectly fit for this kind of work, I keep the 20K countdown unit for the lab were they belong! Nice review again mate! 👍
The colour scheme of that box has serious "Multimeters for Dummies" vibes
Def, and those soft rubber corners screams soft head helmet, of course their all kinds like that. I like my 90 degree corners and boxey 80-90s cars, Soo maybe I'm biased, once my doctor says I can remove my helmet I'll let you know
Well it's the Multimeter 101, basically made for learning the basics.
Was going to say; "for $70 to AU$80 you can't beat an SCA (Super Cheap Auto) mini clamp meter (I've had 2 of em' for well over a decade) - but I just checked and it doesn't look like they sell that one any more...
But the good news is, it looks like they've superseded it with the ToolPro clamp meter for $69AU which appears to be slightly better. So I'd recommend IT over the (liver) Fluke for the same money.
It really does doesn’t it.
True!
I use this meter 5 days a week in a rough repair shop environment. Checking fuses, windings, bridge rectifiers, 120/240 v ac, 15 to 90 v dc and hertz. Works great, very durable.
I bought this thing when you first talked about it a decade or so ago Dave. Been in the toolbag ever since and is my go to in the field. Tough little nugget.
Edit: As for the battery life, I think I replaced them once but I am honestly not sure.
That’s a cat buddy , don’t u oh china then it’s fake inside and out
As a fire alarm technician I use this about every other day, and it’s perfectly accurate for the 12-24vdc market. I added a magnetic strap. Works for all the varied fire alarms /security systems / access control resistor values I see. I also have a 117 I use for automotive.
It might be a limited meter but I have limited use. It stays in my company van in a hard case with Brymen silicone leads. I use mine to verify wall socket power and some low resistance (down to 1R pass/fail component)measurements, which it does a great job. Not often used but always ready, getting fresh batteries every January as does all my battery powered TE.
Same here, but when I built custom lab equipment for serious research institutions and had 3 different separate meters on my bench, all fluke's, I decided to bring in my do it all multimeter to make my work easier, The head engineer told me I couldn't use it, and then I found out why we had so much fluke stuff, and other very expensive oscilloscopes, frequency counters... Because not only are they accurate, and can take a beating, but they stay stable no matter what the climate or how often you drop them. We even sent them in for recalibration and re-certification every 2 years.
We also had a lot of Hewlet Packard instrumentation from before the 80's that was high quality, some even programmable and could interface with each other and computers already in the late 60's! I have no clue why they dropped the entire line and went all in on crappy computers, but it turned out to be a bad move, and they got bought n' sold, sliced n' diced ever since, and into oblivion!
I needed a multimeter that could A: measure capacitance incase my air conditioner takes a dump. B: accurately measure low voltage DC to calibrate my LiPo battery charger and drone radio. And C: do general purpose stuff whenever I need a meter, including building an FPV drone in the future. And this checks every box! Got it on the way. I never thought I'd ever own a Fluke brand meter
I’ve had one of these for a couple years now and can confirm it’s skookum as frig. After my 35 year old radio shack meter gave up the ghost, I went through a couple cheap Chinese meters before settling on this as my handy quick check meter.
My radio shack went right rim the bin and I discovered Fluke.
I have a 107 for about 8 years. I bought in a sale for almost half mrsp. It is very good, ii use it almost every day. The magnetic strap lose It rubber but still in one piece. For bench use it is not the best, but it show his true value in the field, as it size is an huge advantage. Highly recommended
I got one of these back in 2016 for 33 euro on Aliexpress. I have a Fluke 83 iii, 28 ii, 29mk1, 10 and a few others yet this is the one that sees most use. Probably the best buy ever and has held up really well. Might get a second one..
Right angle leads wrap around the meter bettter than straight leads...
Those leads look cheap... but add a velcro wire wrap strap to the leads... and once the leads are wrapped around the metere... and the velcro strap is also wrapped around both... you have a meter with organized leads... ready at all times...
Apparently, the Fluke warranty does not apply to these meters, unless you buy them directly from Fluke (and they don't sell the 101....only the 107 for $150).
with this battery test, you can put one 3.7V lithium battery instead of two batteries
I have a Fluke 107, as well as many other Flukes, excellent multimeters and I recommend it to everyone for purchase
I've had a 115 (add a backlight and 10a capacity) for about 20 years now. It's never failed when sent in for calibration.
First thing i would do with this meter is ad some probe holders with SUGRU. Good to know they took their CAT rating seriously, with chinesium meters you never know.
Beauty. Think I might pick one of these up to keep in the pocket for daily hvac maintenance in commercial stuff.
Since it apparently works at up to 4.2V without issues, I'd really like to see a LiIon cell in the next revision of that meter..
Why bother? According to Dave’s power consumption readings you could use it 40hrs a week for five months before the alkaline cells die
@@Turbochargedtwelve yeah, the batteries last forever on this meter. There is really no point.
I pulled the 101 out of my bag, and put in a UT211B. I've got the big boy Flukes available of course, but for the size, I prefer the UniT for daily carry.
How do you rate the Uni-t for build quality? I'm torn between a Zotek ZT303 for accuracy at about $40 or a Unit-t UT61B+ which is less accurate and costs about $65 but I think might possibly be better built, I'm talking reliability of the switch and input jacks mostly. The UNI-T does seem like a good choice for something well made but at a reasonable price.
@@dunk8157 I haven't had any issues with the jacks or the range switch, but at this price point, for any professional, just buy a backup or two.
I am still using my fathers hand-me down Fluke 8060, the old gray side buttons model. still works great
I have a pair of Fluke 8060a as well, and they are really cool old vintage meters. There is something satisfying about using them, I can't quite describe it. The screen contrast is also really good.
I love my Fluke 101 (have it for 6 years now). I use it all the time. I have tons of other more advanced meters, but for a lot of things this little meter is good enough and is small and easy to carry. It's also so light and robust, you can just throw it about with no care in the world. It's bullet proof. Also like you confirmed, the batteries last forever. I've been teaching my 10 year old nephew about electronics and its his favorite meter to use as well. I'm actually just thinking about buying another one to gift it to him.
This has been my multimeter for the past 9 years. It's great. My tip to anyone with this meter is change your batteries every 2 years out of habit. Mine leaked everywhere and corroded my contacts. My screen has a dim area, so it's on borrowed time. Completely my fault though. It was great watching you put it through all that stress testing and pulling it apart - I have even more respect for my meter now.
Hi, suggest you use lithium non rechargeable batteries is all test kit, they are good for 8years plus without leaking so they will run out well before they leak, I've ran these in all my test kit for years after suffering from a few leaks in some of my expensive kit.
@@seanpduffyeng thanks, I think I will do that
It would be nice to have a meter made in a country that wasn't trying to kill us.
Most of the stuff imported to the west is made in china, Taiwan,Korea etc.scary!
I use that ANENG version been very happy with it.
I have one as a second meter on the bench. Love it !! …. Although It doesn’t have the single blip in diode test mode, which would be a really useful addition in software.
At the price point mentioned, it looks like they may be going after the "hardware store" market. The big guy there is Klein tools (at least at Home Depot). Of course to do that they might need a pouch, and possibly an AC clamp-on ammeter accessory. Me? I've got a (over quarter century) old Radio Shack thing that for what I do (non-precision work!) is adequate for things.
I have one in my shop. No regrets. Now my 87V stays cleaner!
I bought a brand new 87V for my bench at home and got tired of how greasy it became after needing to use it to work on cars. My solution to that problem was to buy a used/filthy 87V with a slightly damaged case from eBay to work in the garage. Love my 87Vs!
A few years ago I bought the Fluke 17B from Banggood for 85 Euro, much better priced than any other model that was available in the EU.
Bangood is usually not reputable
Ah the days before inflation.
The reason you buy this over a really budget meter is that you can trust it. Which is the exact reason you always buy a fluke or similarly nice meter. The last thing you want while troubleshooting is to question your equipment.
on the fluke 101 the AC mili volt range is so it can be used with the fluke i400 current clamp
Aneng is super. Plus there is features you can program in and make display always (timeout programmed off) lit when you lit the screen.
The Aneng may be cheap but from all the people I know who had one (the even cheaper, blue one) , the meters all died, some after not using them for a while. Mine still works, probably because I have never used it. Bought it out of curiosity and to make a video about it.
Contact cleaner on the range switch tracks should fix that?
Clean and lube the gold contact tracks and switch wipers, its easy to take them apart, even the old flukes need to have this done after a while.
@@dunk8157 Mij oldest Fluke with a rotating switch is a 77-III, I have it now over almost 30 years and never had to clean the contacts, they do not need cleaning, they are gold plated and very well build. If the Aneng needs that within a year, then it is really crap. I repair measurement and calibration gear and never have seen Fluke switch problems except for a current clamp but that was because someone had lubed the switch.
My philosophy has always been to never buy a cheap product from a brand that is known for making good stuff- you just end up over-paying for generic items just because they have a brand name, and/or if they make their own, it won't be half as good as the stuff from the 'cheap' company. If you want cheap, buy from a bargain brand; it'll be half the price, and just as good as the cheapo from the 'good' company, or [usually] better; and that appears to be the case here with Fluke. I had bought a cheap Fluke at Lowe's years ago...I quickly returned it and replaced it with a $5 Harbor Freight MM. I'm about to upgrade from the Harbor Freight to a c. $25 Amazon Chinese special (I'll take a look at that Zotek).
First time seeing you not taking it apart before turning it on
No yellow fever for me! 😅There are meters with more features, similar or better specs, and they cost less.
A brave man's drinking game: have a sip every time he says the word Fluke.
The 101 is about 120 Euro's here in the Netherlands, not as cheap as I would like it to be. I'm now looking for something like the AN8008/8009 which shows some negative reviews of it not working properly at all. I'm not sure what to do now... maybe buy a second hand fluke.
Well worth the money to have something that gives trustable measurements, those that bought vici and similar crap should buy this instead of wiggling their vici range switch and probe plugs to try to get a decent reading every measurement
I have the 106, the main issue to me is no stand/support, especially with the supplied rubbish PVC leads, it just rolls around. I got sillycone ones, way better, but still no real way to support it on a job You can get a velcro stand, but that costs almost as much as the meter itself. Still trying to think of a retro fit something, love any suggestions...
Caught Dave BEATING HIS METER.
I have a 107 (which I imagine is very similar to a 101) and it is absolutely horrible. I basically just keep it in my car for emergencies because the continuity (beep) mode was so unbelievably quiet/unresponsive and (if I recall correctly) its time to read an accurate resistance reading was super pathetic. My AN8008 is a significantly better meter if you ignore robustness and viewing angle...and you only consider speed and trusting the measurement your equipment. If you have to wait a random number of seconds to get an accurate measurement, how do you know when your measurement is correct?
I'm honestly embarrassed that I own the 107. I've though about simply smashing and discarding it so others wouldn't have to deal with how pathetic it was, but I can't bring myself to do it.
Depending on your usage. If for automotive, any $5 or $10 meter will do the trick.
Duraleaks will leak before they get the 800 hours. I would not leave those in something I cared about for too long.
Where is the Zotek review? Link Please. Also why doesn't the search feature on Dave's TH-cam page?
This would be a good DMM for my dad, he gets annoyed/flustered by all the options on his meter.
Around at 11:10, this Fluke 101 is well surviving under the 1,200V surge and Dave is saying "no worries!".
What about other cheaper multimeters from Aneng or ZOYI? Did any of them (Aneng / AOYI) make magic smokes under 1,200V?
Dave did test the Aneng and it survived the rated tests, but he gives them a very big voltage and then they die, but its much more than they would get in real life.
Re: lithium. If one was to change battery chemistry in the meter, would they compromise any of the performance/safety ratings? I've wondered this for a long time and had hacked my 289 to run on lithium cells before having doubts and reverting back to alkaline cells. Or maybe nimh eneloops. Hmm
mA current would have been nice..., otherwise really nice for the price
Great review. For $42 and assuming it's a bona fide real Fluke it's a bargain. Fluke doesn't make bad meters.
All flukes have the same color even their $1000 model. It's their branding.
Neither of the non-bargraph molasses rate Flukes were ever really all that expensive. Glad they made these cheap ones though that you can be safe knowing you won't get blown up. Thats the only main thing really here. EDIT: its the stuff you can easily leave in your work truck without too much worry. Also the CSA rating is equiv or better to any UL thing.
Never seen anyone flick the meter probes like that
Hey dave what is yellow stick you hold? 😊
Hi have you tested the fluke 302+ ? I have had the 101 for years now , never let me down.
Cheers
I own 5 flukes ranging from 450 to a $1000 each, and 2 Fieldpieces for which I think I paid less than 400 for each. I can't imagine the utility of a $42 multimeter.
Are you Kim Kardasion
No back light, no probe holders, no stand…
Costs 89 Euro on Amazon EU. Every Uni-T beats it with the feature set and price. Paying for just the Fluke label makes no sense.
Bought it excited, but lasted no more than 4 months. It just decided one day to never turn back on. No leaky batteries, white smoke, just died. And I payed $110. Boo this meter
So a 'multi-meter' with no current? My old VOM has current for heaven's sake.
£57 here in the UK. Not so cheap.
Cheapest here is a Fluke 101+ for about $90. So.. 4x a Zotek or one Fluke. Thanks, but no.
3:44 at that size, it's gonna survive anything you throw it at, rather. Lol
Glad to see that klein in the video. Its ip67 and takes a beating. Its my meter of choice for offroad rescues. People get themselves into trouble far away from civilization and rescues can take a long time. A meter that doesnt need to be treated with care or protected from the rain etc is a huge plus when you are tired and cold and just want to go home.
It's ugly as sin though.
It definitely is an ugly meter.
No DC mV range.
No mV DC range on anymete is an instant fail for me, for audio dudes allot of measurements are in mV range.
I use this as an everyday carry in industrial automation. It fits my vest pocket with leads and the magnetic hanger and is very light. My bigger meters spend most of their time in the toolbox now. This has been a very reliable meter for basic troubleshooting work. Come to think of it, since owning it for about 4 years I have never changed the batteries!
Same. I carry it way more often than my 87 or 233. It's so nice for working in high areas where you just want to throw tools in your pocket and go.
I have a few and have been quite happy with them as basic quick trouble shooting meter where absolute accuracy is not my primary concern. My best guess on the AC only mA range is they have have it for use with AC only current clamps. Which are just current transformers with a small load resistor to turn the output into a small AC voltage. I would make some sense given that these were originally intended as low cost electrician/field tech meters for the Asian market.
I like the separate AC and DC voltage measurement modes right on the dial!
Some compact meters only have one mode on the dial, and they default to AC mode, so you always have to separately select the DC mode. This can be a nuisance if you mainly happen to need the meter for DC measurements, like quick car diagnostics.
Even worse if the meter has a short and non-adjustable auto-off time, and then always defaults back to AC at power on, like my current one does...
The Fluke 80 series famously switched from default DC to default AC mode with the model III and it pissed a lot of people off.
Exactly how my uni-t 210 E and D are. Good thing it has been hacked in the eevblog forum I was able to change the default modes and set the backlight and auto off timers to hours.
@@quandiy5164 my 210E has been bugging me doing that, how hard is making the change?
@@Firecul you just need an arduino to read and edit the eeprom. There's a big thread on the forum on how to connect it. The confusing part was figuring out which values to swap but I eventually got it, there was a table in the datasheet showing which addresses correspond to what functions. I also did the 6000 count mod.
@@quandiy5164 That might be the 50+ page thread I found then.
I don't have an arduino actually, never needed one. A quick read though a couple of posts just made my head scramble. I'll keep it in mind but it's not as simple as I wanted lol
One day I may attempt it.
This replaced my 87-V for field use about 4 years ago. No it's not an 87 but it's Fluke quality and does what it does well. I went with the 107 for the current scale. I don't think I have replaced the original batteries. I think mine came with the magnetic strap. As handy as the magnet can be, I always found it swinging around. So I cut the magnet off and glued it to the back of the 107. Perfect. Nice review Dave!
A tip for all you Fluke fan boys.
I you use your flukes in the field you know how the soft rubber yellow holster gets real grimy. And they just don't clean up well with any soap I've tried.
Try this, spray it with clothes stain remover and throw it in the washer, with other clothes. Mine is cleaner than new. Wow!
I have several Flukes, including this, the 107, 115 and 117, plus the higher end types. For me though, the 101, 107 and the 115 and 117 have the best switch feel and action of any meter I've tried, regardless of price.
Yeah I have a Fluke 117. I don't regret buying it even though it's mega overkill lol
The mark on the back of the meter to the right of the CE mark is a CSA mark with C and US subscripts. This means it has been tested and is listed to Canadian and US (UL) standards. It has a similar meaning as a UL listed mark, but means it was tested and listed by CSA instead. Both are reputable and test to the same standards.
How about CCP certification standard. The organization is selected to certified EV for American Market for "Industrial Coloney" of China.
You might want to read a few Canadian websites about the CSA and it's "standards testing". Raises a lot of questions about them.
Overpriced. Fluke fundamentals in precision and accuracy are still good, but the features and the crappy users interfaces are way behind the times.
No ya didnt break anything, thats where the molding sprue from the injection molding machine is located - where it injects the plastic, it has to be cut or broken off after being removed from the molding machine - I ran plastic injection molding machines for 15 years, broke/cut off (a lot) of sprues in that 15 years.
Lack of a backlight is a bit of a shame. I love the AN8008 (still available by the way) as a secondary meter, I was working in a low light area the other day and its backlight is great. BM786 is my main meter of course :)
To get the backlight you have to pay up for the Fluke 107 for ~$100
@@julesdim1758 Yes - just watched a review on that one :)
My AN8008 lasted a month in my glovebox.
Went to grab it and found that the clear screen had broken down with the heat..
Not having amps can be kinda nice sometimes, honestly. Used to work at a hobby electronics store and got a couple dozen meters back every week from people claiming "it blew up and smoke came out". Everytime it was because they tried to measure a car battery on amps and blew the fuse because they used the wrong port. Store policy was anything returned below $150 had to be hit with a hammer and into the dumpster. Such a waste.
For the cheapo multimeters my "min requirement" is auto-off / battery safer.
Dont hate anything more then getting a multimeter for 8 bucks,
the bettery replacement costing 5 bucks,
and it can happen every week.
(i tend to use voltcraft / local cheap brand for CONRAD for students and small stuff)
edit: also handy to have some simple ones to just have multiple voltages shown at the same time,
without having to hoist around a chunky benchmultimeter, which needs a table, costs a lot and isnt really needed most of the times.
Dave, why are you always kicking Fluke meters to death? Why don't you give your Bryman meters the "Drop" test...Or the "Swim" test...That you did on the Flukes?
I have never actually reviewed my own meters.
For someone looking at this for their first keep at home for random stuff meter would you stick with the leads it comes with or get different ones?
Looks like Fluke finally woke up to the fact that you cannot sell grossly overpriced testers forever. Still, for 40$ you can get an awesome noname tester with great precision.
The Fluke 101 is being sold here on Amazon France for 139€, Yes 139€. They also list the same model with the plastic stand for, wait for it, 172€. Not worth it here in Europe. 😞
Payé 51€ sur ebay la semaine derniere, envoi gratuit et TVA incluse
No current range but has a largely pointless (for most people) capacitance an Hz range F**k that and why is Flukes continuity detection still so shit?. You're buying a crap meter just to get the Fluke name.
Here in Germany it costs 88€ on Amazon, it’s double the price you mentioned. Maybe it’s the case to look for something more expensive instead of that tiny thing ?
I agree its a stupid price for such a basic made in China meter. Buy a Zotek / Uni-t or Aneng and save the money.
I have the original Chinese 17B, which is supposed to be only sold in China. It was like 70€ some years ago and is a really great multimeter, built like a brick and with all the nice safety details for the original (as far as I can tell).
John Smith did high voltage transient test with F101 and it survived with flying colours to thousands of volts on every mode.
I've never been a brand fan boy . Give me good value, or I'm gone. Fluke fan boys always tout the robustness, but my $17 thsinde gets beat around constantly and continues to be my favorite for about 6 years. I've spent more money on replacement leads than the meter.
My curiosity was peaked on mention of $42 Fluke. Then, promptly quelled when Dave said out right the Zotec beatt it.
I have a Fluke 107 as a spare meter. It is a great multimeter. It is fantastic at measuring mV AC. I just wish that Fluke could measure DC mV as well. It's a very important frature in the industy I work in.
Bought this for my sons first tool kit. Great multimeter for learning basic home repairs.
Hello sir, could you please review LCR meters again? It's been a long time since you reviewed. I am thinking about getting the DE-5000, for a small hobbyist lab.
As a hobbyist (basicly learned everything i know about EE by watching your channel for the last 8 years or so, and couple of other channels) I bought the Aneng 8008 when it was new and it's still working great and does everything i need it to do, it's all low voltage, like 12v max as my main interests are microcontrollers like esp32, arduinos etc ... However even though my Aneng can measure mains voltage, Im usually not comfortable using it to measure high voltages (and i try to not fuck around with high voltage) but now Im thinking about ordering this one for the few times I need to measure higher voltages and stuff like that .. Then i have the Aneng for it's features and keep using it as I currently do, but then i can have this one for it's protection when I need to measure high voltage knowing it wont damage my meter since I have a bit more faith in Fluke than Aneng ;) And buying a 2-400$ meter does not make alot of sens for me .. Win win
Make sure you get it from a reputable source, I'm sure the China Export squad already jumped on it to create a "FULKE" near exact copy minus the safety :)
I also bought an Aneng when Dave did his video on it, and I have found the range switch to be unreliable. After not using it awhile, a short will read as 10-20 ohms, for example. Switching it back and forth a bunch of times fixes it but it has caught me when I was using it to troubleshoot something (I use bench meters for most work). I think I would rather have a bulletproof range switch than features, since I only use it to test volts, ohms, and continuity anyway.
Curiously enough I've blown one of the cheapest analog meter on the market over my lap and... I SURVIVED. it didn't.
Honestly I don't know what kind of voltages you do plan to measure that any cheapo no-name multimeter couldn't handle. Perhaps people go around poking at 100odd kVolts transmission lines with one probe to the other!?
Only issue I've ever had with my 8008 was the piece of plastic that formed the screen and sat infront of the lcd turned opaque - probably a reacrtion to UV light - but other than that it'd been fine.
Mine works 100% , but the only "issue" i've had was that i broke the stand on the back of it , but kinda does not matter since it was pretty useless
I don't need another meter but I kind of do because of the size and I mainly deal in DC anyway.. the size, durability and quality is hard to pass on.. looks pretty accurate and covers 99% of what I would use it for. Thanks for reviewing and the battery of tests (pun intended), appreciate your detailed content.
Too many "You know" in the commentary.
Nice: SMD power resistor R32 installed over a hole in PCB for better cooling.
I prefer dmm which dont measure currnt as one can end up burning internal fuses if one accidentaaly one leaves out the probes in current position and end up measuring voltage!! Fluke 101 is great tool considering the probes from fluke cost mose than 40 bucks. I have two of these fluke 101. yes the only downside is it cant do DC millivolt range. Yes the capacitance measurement is slowwwwwww...
Klein Tools MM325 is better in every way and cheaper.
Seriously? This must be an ad payed for by Fluke...
Own several Fluke meters and yes they have been performing mostly nice over time, but the world has evolved. The brand premium has vanished completely. They're slow in resolving issues, it takes literally years before they get addressed if at all. Effective safety is certainly a thing, but other brands have that too. Do not start me on the feature/cost ratio. Since I started looking at equipment from other manufacturers I don't think I'll ever return to Fluke anymore, the price cannot be justified anymore, sorry.
@17:42 after two years mine died. Popped in open and cleaned up those battery pads. Good as new.
What is fluke best budget multimeter for laptop / phone repair ?
No RMS -> Trash.
Terminals are nice though.
What is reason to by this Fluke instead cheaper chinese? For label only?
th-cam.com/video/ay9wFQAW19Y/w-d-xo.html
I first thought that the lack of screen light wouldn’t be an issue.
I thought wrong. Climbing up under a vehicle dash and other dim lit areas, really sucks without a screen light.
Great review video, thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
I've got an Aneng 8008 which I use for low voltage, hobby electronics and it's brilliant for that, but I wouldn't ever use it for mains voltage as I wouldn't trust the protection. I have a properly certified multimeter that I use if I'm touching mains. But I'm definitely going to pick up a Fluke 101 as the small, throw in the toolkit, meter that can be used for mains. Sadly as I'm in the UK 🇬🇧 I'll have to import it from the US as Fluke don't sell it over here for some reason. Anyway, thanks again for the great review.
Quality FR4 boards have quite the distinguishable shine to them indeed.