Sorry your having problems. BikeBerry is trash. I’ve never had a problem with wheels so not sure about the installation techniques. 14g and a rag joint should hold. There’s plenty of places to get custom parts. Ghetto Bikes,Gemini Rims, Bike Barn although it’s cooperate and several others as well as just having your local shop string you one! Best regards and good plug on Moses. He probably has a better memory than me but there are a few other builder shops to hit up as well.
Roger, I actually had better luck with the original 14 gauge spoke that came stock on the Micargi than with the Fying Horse 😞 The 11 gauge wheel the Mozez turned me onto seems rugged. Now I'm not afraid to put in a bigger engine (someday) and thrashing the real wheel. Thanks for the leads; I had my eye on some Ghetto Bike stuff. Ride safe!
I have some all steel wheels I got from Amazon from wheelmaster for about $120, a little heavy but so far they're bulletproof. Probably close to about 2,000 miles on them, spokes haven't budged as long as you keep the rag joint tight.
I got 11 gauge on the Back of my Beach cruiser & 12 Up Front as well...Got the Husky 11 g... Works Great! No issues So Far! Kenda White Wall Flames! Love my Motorized Bike! There Hella Cool!
Thank you I am currently dealing with this very issue. I have my rims in the shop right now getting the bearings replaced in the newer rim, then swapping the axle and pedal sprocket over to that rim. While I'm riding on that Rim I completely planned on upgrading the spokes on the old room to yeah thicker gauge spokes. So by the sounds of at 11 gauge, that's good to know. Because I have a feeling this Rim will not last too long. I'm hoping by then I'll have a way better stronger built up rim that I can put the motors sprocket onto and ride on that for a more permanent solution. But right now one of the reasons why I am wapping the axle out and having new bearings installed is because one the bearings in the other Rim that I bought are just bad and two the whole shebang didn't seem to line up on my frame. Therefore I kept getting derailment issues with a perfectly mounted sprocket. So I figured heck I'll throw the old rim on there with the sprocket all sloppy and out of whack and if it doesn't derail then obviously the new /used rim is from a different frame therefore it's not lining up in my frame. It probably would have worked okay for just pedaling but as far as the motors sprocket lining up, it sits too far in now. I tried shimmying it up with washers on one side but no go. I'm hoping having the axle and pedal sprocket pack from the old rim that did line up swapped over to the other room that I'm going to be riding on will make it line up. And as a bonus I get some brand new bearings put in it. Then like I said I'm going to upgrade the spokes on this old rim into 11 gauge spokes, I guess. Then I'll swap the pedal sprocket pack bearings and axle back over to the old room that's been upgraded. At that point I will probably also get the hub adapter. Hopefully that will be my permanent solution. Short of that Magnum rims is the only thing I can think of. Otherwise I can probably expect more broken spokes in this sprocket continuing to come untrue and having to continually adjust it here and there. Thanks for sharing your experience it's helpful.
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887you replied very quickly, I was actually just updating my comment when you replied. Just to give a little bit more detail. Again thank you for sharing your experience because it's going to be very helpful with my journey with this problem.
You're very welcome. I don't know a lot about the motorized bikes, minibikes, etc. but most of what I DO know I pretty much learned on TH-cam from other builders
Ok I'll throw my hat into the ring for best wheel set. I built my bike to ride bayou trails. Strong and safe wheels were the most important thing. Nobody sold what I needed, so I built my own. I used Rhyno Lite triple wall rims with reinforced nipples ($130 for both) Box brand BMX hubs with sealed bearings and 10mm axels. The rear hub has a free coaster on one side and on the other there are six holes to mount a break disc ($430 for the set) Next is a specialty sprocket. It has an offset so you can mount both sprocket and break disc together directly on the hub ($130) Regular 14 gauge spokes. Straight Race lace pattern up front, and a 4 cross lacing on the rear wheel ($110) In total I spent a staggering $800. Twice as much as my bike and engine kit combined. I could have bought a cheap dirt bike or mini bike at that price. BUT after riding trails over two years and a couple hundred miles, I've had ZERO issues. Absolutely none. No bent rims, ripped nipples or broken spokes ( yes, even though they are only 14 gauge) No crooked rag joints or slipping sprocket adapters. No bent axels. No failed bearings. No headaches, period. It was expensive, but in the long run it was worth building my own wheel set. Hopes this helps someone out there. Good luck with your builds.
That's impressive, especially with the 14 gauge spokes. I disregard the "you coulda bought a motorcycle for that amount" comments. The current rendition of my GX140 powered bike probably has about $1600 or $1800 in it, and some of that cost is for "trial and error" parts. Live and learn, right? I appreciate you sharing your experience. Ride safe, builder!
NIce wheels. I had a rear hub motor on a cheap wheel and it broke 1 spoke every 100 miles. Now I'm mid drive and have yet to brake any spokes, but its a high end wheel. I'm also around 200 pounds.
Johnnie's, that was my response too - Grainger? Check out the link: www.grainger.com/product/2KGG5?gucid=N%3AN%3APS%3APaid%3AGGL%3ACSM-2295%3A4P7A1P%3A20501231&gclid=CjwKCAjwtp2bBhAGEiwAOZZTuF3xFaC2n_hEAeQbeEM4Dsp5O1_1rwXo44HoE6WRw6HFn2kpMFbGABoCSmMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Ride safe!
Gemini back rim laced with 10g spokes. Disk brake, full hydraulic or hydraulic/cable combo. That is the one. Steel rims if going above 40mph. And make sure you stay away from mag rims; again, if 40 and up.
MBR, I agree. I have to keep my bikes outside (no garage) and the rim is getting rusty :-( I will say though that the setup makes me feel safe at 40 mph!
James, I agree 100%. I was at the point where I wanted to fix the wheel one last time. I may also be upgrading the engine, and wanted a better/stronger platform. Thanks!
pretty cool- big T is building some rippers! i have the best wheel setup. WTB dual duty rims, single speed disc hub( symmetrical dish, stronger) , and a home made cush drive bolted to rhe disc side. i've put thousands of miles trouble free. with standard spokes. you just cant do dumb stuff like dropping the clutch. get going and fab yourself up a 'cush drive' ! use 1/4" or 3/8" conveyer belt material between the carrier and whatever size sprocket you choose.
those hub adapters are garbage, they usually only work on coaster brake hubs, the best way is to mount the sprocket where the disc brake would go, (but that may require lasing your own hub. The way I do it is only one rag joint on the inside, metal on metal on the outside, I replace the hardware with the black 6 mm Allen screws from the hardware store with locking nuts 12g spokes. That works a lot better than the hub adapters. The hub adapters are mounted with only two screws that's never going to work. But the absolute worst possible way to go is those mystery metal bikeberry style mags, those things almost killed me once, sidewalk blew out without warning.
bassw, I have not heard good things about the mag wheels either, glad you survived. The hub adapter is working pretty good for me, but I will not BS anybody and say it has never slipped. My experience in the last few years is that the motorized bikes are more of a challenge than the mini bikes - those are more plug and play. Thanks for stopping by!
I have no experience solid tubes/tires. I got a flat on this bike once, even with Slime tubes. I started putting a couple of turns of tape over the tire liners and have not had a flat since then. I'm about 210 myself... Ride safe!
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 thanks. I did the electric tape too. They offered me a Tannus tire liner for $40 each. They look bomb proof, im not sure until I hear from other riders.
I like them. With the GX140 engine and torque converter the bike is heavy. I'm 200+ lbs, and the front forks (and spring seat) make for a pretty comfortable ride. You can adjust the spring tension, and the forks have rockers that are like little swing arms. You can also mount disc brakes and two style of caliper brakes (center or side pull), so you have plenty of braking options.
MB Rider, I kept the coaster brake on, but I don't really use it. It was easier than trying to convert to a freewheel; I figure it's like an "emergency brake" if the caliper brake I installed fails. Up front, I'm using a disc AND caliper brake, with a dual brake lever. On the rear, I have the caliper brake and the coaster brake (if necessary). If s**t goes down, I have four brakes, LOL
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 thanks for the info, just a heads up, cause I have a coaster break on one of my motorized bike. When you do use it, it tends to slide and lose control on the back rim I almost fell one time
What they want for that one rim alone was the price of my whole engine kit. It might be strong but not worth that price, Besides you can pay just a little more and get a 10 gauge spoked rim for a Moped that will work, If your willing to pay the big bucks. I'm not ! Good video though.
Yes worksmanship wheels r good also husky brand wheels are nice mbrebel has good ones and the best bicycle wheel ya gonna get would be from will kid… he builds them himself those are the best bike wheels other than that I’d say get some moped wheels off an old tomos or whatever or… buy a heavy duty rim and a moped hub but I’ve seen a lot of guys just buy the moped and take wheels off it and ride em on it… plus the fact the dot approved tires they use are waaay better… anyways yeah a freewheel is best w the free wheel and disc brakes they make an adapter for the disc caliper… but a freewheel is better than any coaster brake period… a coaster brake easily locks up and all but v brakes are a step up in safety and discs for 30+ mags r ok… cdh power wheels are good ones also.. on Amazon and will kids Gemini wheels are also good husky and worksman heavy duty 12g wheels also free wheels convert to free wheels w disc brake compatibility..
Thanks for sharing this with the motorized bike people out here,,
Thanks brother! Just bought my first kit and it's turned into a bigger project that I previously thought. Good info!
LOL, they usually do work out that way!
Sorry your having problems. BikeBerry is trash. I’ve never had a problem with wheels so not sure about the installation techniques. 14g and a rag joint should hold. There’s plenty of places to get custom parts. Ghetto Bikes,Gemini Rims, Bike Barn although it’s cooperate and several others as well as just having your local shop string you one! Best regards and good plug on Moses. He probably has a better memory than me but there are a few other builder shops to hit up as well.
Roger, I actually had better luck with the original 14 gauge spoke that came stock on the Micargi than with the Fying Horse 😞 The 11 gauge wheel the Mozez turned me onto seems rugged. Now I'm not afraid to put in a bigger engine (someday) and thrashing the real wheel. Thanks for the leads; I had my eye on some Ghetto Bike stuff. Ride safe!
I have some all steel wheels I got from Amazon from wheelmaster for about $120, a little heavy but so far they're bulletproof. Probably close to about 2,000 miles on them, spokes haven't budged as long as you keep the rag joint tight.
Link?
@@stevewatson7217 WheelMaster Rear Bicycle Wheel, 26x2.125 STL CP 36 STL FW 5/6/7sp 12gUCP is the description, won't let me leave link
Those look like great rims and spokes but coaster brakes are not a option for me. If they only had disc brakes would be 5stars.
I got 11 gauge on the Back of my Beach cruiser & 12 Up Front as well...Got the Husky 11 g... Works Great! No issues So Far! Kenda White Wall Flames! Love my Motorized Bike! There Hella Cool!
Thank you I am currently dealing with this very issue. I have my rims in the shop right now getting the bearings replaced in the newer rim, then swapping the axle and pedal sprocket over to that rim. While I'm riding on that Rim I completely planned on upgrading the spokes on the old room to yeah thicker gauge spokes. So by the sounds of at 11 gauge, that's good to know. Because I have a feeling this Rim will not last too long. I'm hoping by then I'll have a way better stronger built up rim that I can put the motors sprocket onto and ride on that for a more permanent solution. But right now one of the reasons why I am wapping the axle out and having new bearings installed is because one the bearings in the other Rim that I bought are just bad and two the whole shebang didn't seem to line up on my frame. Therefore I kept getting derailment issues with a perfectly mounted sprocket. So I figured heck I'll throw the old rim on there with the sprocket all sloppy and out of whack and if it doesn't derail then obviously the new /used rim is from a different frame therefore it's not lining up in my frame. It probably would have worked okay for just pedaling but as far as the motors sprocket lining up, it sits too far in now. I tried shimmying it up with washers on one side but no go. I'm hoping having the axle and pedal sprocket pack from the old rim that did line up swapped over to the other room that I'm going to be riding on will make it line up. And as a bonus I get some brand new bearings put in it. Then like I said I'm going to upgrade the spokes on this old rim into 11 gauge spokes, I guess. Then I'll swap the pedal sprocket pack bearings and axle back over to the old room that's been upgraded. At that point I will probably also get the hub adapter. Hopefully that will be my permanent solution. Short of that Magnum rims is the only thing I can think of. Otherwise I can probably expect more broken spokes in this sprocket continuing to come untrue and having to continually adjust it here and there. Thanks for sharing your experience it's helpful.
Yup, we pretty much all do. Good luck on your search for the right wheels
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887you replied very quickly, I was actually just updating my comment when you replied. Just to give a little bit more detail. Again thank you for sharing your experience because it's going to be very helpful with my journey with this problem.
You're very welcome. I don't know a lot about the motorized bikes, minibikes, etc. but most of what I DO know I pretty much learned on TH-cam from other builders
Ok I'll throw my hat into the ring for best wheel set. I built my bike to ride bayou trails. Strong and safe wheels were the most important thing. Nobody sold what I needed, so I built my own. I used Rhyno Lite triple wall rims with reinforced nipples ($130 for both) Box brand BMX hubs with sealed bearings and 10mm axels. The rear hub has a free coaster on one side and on the other there are six holes to mount a break disc ($430 for the set) Next is a specialty sprocket. It has an offset so you can mount both sprocket and break disc together directly on the hub ($130) Regular 14 gauge spokes. Straight Race lace pattern up front, and a 4 cross lacing on the rear wheel ($110) In total I spent a staggering $800. Twice as much as my bike and engine kit combined. I could have bought a cheap dirt bike or mini bike at that price. BUT after riding trails over two years and a couple hundred miles, I've had ZERO issues. Absolutely none. No bent rims, ripped nipples or broken spokes ( yes, even though they are only 14 gauge) No crooked rag joints or slipping sprocket adapters. No bent axels. No failed bearings. No headaches, period. It was expensive, but in the long run it was worth building my own wheel set. Hopes this helps someone out there. Good luck with your builds.
That's impressive, especially with the 14 gauge spokes. I disregard the "you coulda bought a motorcycle for that amount" comments. The current rendition of my GX140 powered bike probably has about $1600 or $1800 in it, and some of that cost is for "trial and error" parts. Live and learn, right? I appreciate you sharing your experience. Ride safe, builder!
NIce wheels.
I had a rear hub motor on a cheap wheel and it broke 1 spoke every 100 miles. Now I'm mid drive and have yet to brake any spokes, but its a high end wheel. I'm also around 200 pounds.
Thanks Eric. I watched a couple of your Bafang videos. Very interesting, as I know zilch about ebikes. Ride safe!
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887EBikes are great at making the wallet much lighter.
@@Eric_Tennant ALL of my hobbies are wallet lighteners :-/
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 Indeed
Grainger like the place that sells all kinds of hardware and to s of other stuff?
Johnnie's, that was my response too - Grainger? Check out the link:
www.grainger.com/product/2KGG5?gucid=N%3AN%3APS%3APaid%3AGGL%3ACSM-2295%3A4P7A1P%3A20501231&gclid=CjwKCAjwtp2bBhAGEiwAOZZTuF3xFaC2n_hEAeQbeEM4Dsp5O1_1rwXo44HoE6WRw6HFn2kpMFbGABoCSmMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Ride safe!
Gemini back rim laced with 10g spokes. Disk brake, full hydraulic or hydraulic/cable combo. That is the one. Steel rims if going above 40mph. And make sure you stay away from mag rims; again, if 40 and up.
The mag wheels look tempting, but I've seen them just collapse. At least spoked wheels usually give you warning. Ride safe, Leonard!
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 Always. Will keep watching.
They both give you a warning. It's just a matter of how fast your reaction time is.
@@vintagethrifter2114 you're probably right!
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 mag is a bad choice.
Great vid OG! Thanks for the info bud.
Thanks JM. She's a tank, I'm a tank, so I feel safer with these rims at 40 mph; I'm trying to catch up to you, lol
The flying horse disc brake ready wheels are great if you switch out the hoops.
MBR, I agree. I have to keep my bikes outside (no garage) and the rim is getting rusty :-( I will say though that the setup makes me feel safe at 40 mph!
I like the worksman rims. They are pricey though
James, I agree 100%. I was at the point where I wanted to fix the wheel one last time. I may also be upgrading the engine, and wanted a better/stronger platform. Thanks!
I was wondering why my spokes were breaking,now I know.
Julian, lots of good ideas in the comments, just stay away from mag wheels 👍
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 I was just looking at a pair,thx
meanwhile me with a 20 year old painfully rusty steel rear wheel from the post soviet era paired to a 80cc motor
Sounds like fun!
Thak you OG
You're welcome Roger
pretty cool- big T is building some rippers! i have the best wheel setup. WTB dual duty rims, single speed disc hub( symmetrical dish, stronger) , and a home made cush drive bolted to rhe disc side. i've put thousands of miles trouble free. with standard spokes. you just cant do dumb stuff like dropping the clutch. get going and fab yourself up a 'cush drive' ! use 1/4" or 3/8" conveyer belt material between the carrier and whatever size sprocket you choose.
Sounds awesome, Robert!
those hub adapters are garbage, they usually only work on coaster brake hubs, the best way is to mount the sprocket where the disc brake would go, (but that may require lasing your own hub. The way I do it is only one rag joint on the inside, metal on metal on the outside, I replace the hardware with the black 6 mm Allen screws from the hardware store with locking nuts 12g spokes. That works a lot better than the hub adapters. The hub adapters are mounted with only two screws that's never going to work. But the absolute worst possible way to go is those mystery metal bikeberry style mags, those things almost killed me once, sidewalk blew out without warning.
bassw, I have not heard good things about the mag wheels either, glad you survived. The hub adapter is working pretty good for me, but I will not BS anybody and say it has never slipped. My experience in the last few years is that the motorized bikes are more of a challenge than the mini bikes - those are more plug and play. Thanks for stopping by!
Any thoughts on solid tubes? Ive got good tire liners but my 700 38c looks just way to small for 222 pound me and a 50 cc....3 rides,3 flats
I have no experience solid tubes/tires. I got a flat on this bike once, even with Slime tubes. I started putting a couple of turns of tape over the tire liners and have not had a flat since then. I'm about 210 myself... Ride safe!
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 thanks. I did the electric tape too. They offered me a Tannus tire liner for $40 each. They look bomb proof, im not sure until I hear from other riders.
Get mag wheels there absolutely perfect for these bikes
Lil nofresh, they don't break? I'm on the heavy side, afraid they'd just blow out
How do those forks work?
I like them. With the GX140 engine and torque converter the bike is heavy. I'm 200+ lbs, and the front forks (and spring seat) make for a pretty comfortable ride. You can adjust the spring tension, and the forks have rockers that are like little swing arms. You can also mount disc brakes and two style of caliper brakes (center or side pull), so you have plenty of braking options.
Quick question , looked up that rim and it has a coaster brake. Is that what you’re using or did you take it off? Please help
MB Rider, I kept the coaster brake on, but I don't really use it. It was easier than trying to convert to a freewheel; I figure it's like an "emergency brake" if the caliper brake I installed fails. Up front, I'm using a disc AND caliper brake, with a dual brake lever. On the rear, I have the caliper brake and the coaster brake (if necessary). If s**t goes down, I have four brakes, LOL
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 thanks for the info, just a heads up, cause I have a coaster break on one of my motorized bike. When you do use it, it tends to slide and lose control on the back rim I almost fell one time
Either it was just that or it was a slippery road
@@motorizedbicyclerider5296 yes, like I said those coaster brakes are for emergencies only. Ride safe!
@@ogbigtsbikesandstuff887 yes, I understand that part. I was just giving you a heads up because it could be dangerous.
What they want for that one rim alone was the price of my whole engine kit. It might be strong but not worth that price, Besides you can pay just a little more and get a 10 gauge spoked rim for a Moped that will work, If your willing to pay the big bucks. I'm not ! Good video though.
Stephen, yes, a bit expensive, no doubt. This entire build is a bit of a money pit anyway, lol. Thanks for stopping by!
Ah a 4 smoke
Yes indeed
Yes worksmanship wheels r good also husky brand wheels are nice mbrebel has good ones and the best bicycle wheel ya gonna get would be from will kid… he builds them himself those are the best bike wheels other than that I’d say get some moped wheels off an old tomos or whatever or… buy a heavy duty rim and a moped hub but I’ve seen a lot of guys just buy the moped and take wheels off it and ride em on it… plus the fact the dot approved tires they use are waaay better… anyways yeah a freewheel is best w the free wheel and disc brakes they make an adapter for the disc caliper… but a freewheel is better than any coaster brake period… a coaster brake easily locks up and all but v brakes are a step up in safety and discs for 30+ mags r ok… cdh power wheels are good ones also.. on Amazon and will kids Gemini wheels are also good husky and worksman heavy duty 12g wheels also free wheels convert to free wheels w disc brake compatibility..
lol, I'll save this comment in case I build another motorized bike - good info!
inverted
???
A good decent mountain bike wheel like an actual mntn bike wheel should be perfectly fine a regular huffy spokes coaster wheel nae I’ll pass on that
MBN 53, that's a good point. My 80cc 2 stroke was built on a Huffy MB pltform - thanks for the reminder. Ride safe!
Bike berry is trash they sell you stage 1 through 4 kits only thing that makes sense is the head
Use a flip flop rim