Hey there, I read in the description that you said you can put a varnish over oil weathering effects, I've heard that specific varnishes (such as acrylics) will NOT stick to oils, I just don't want anyone to ruin their model. Anyways great video. You are one of my favourite modelling You Tubers (I have no idea why you don't have more subscribers)! Cheers, Jake
I have tested a few flat varnishes for a base coat to do oil weathering on and I can confirm that XF-86 works great, it's the best for oils that I tested yet. I thin 1 part xf-86 to 2 parts mr color leveling thinner for the best results. Thinning with Isopropyl Alcohol leaves it chalky and thinning with X20A leaves it rough and blotchy. Mr color leveling thinner has the absolute best result with xf-86. As far as using oils over it, it's great, the oils grip well to it and they level out, even out and blend beautifully on it. I've used other flat varnishes that were just a little too smooth and trying to blend oils was very difficult be cc'd cause they would just slide around too easily. Xf-86 doesn't have this problem. The quality of the surface you're putting oils on is just as important as the quality of the oils themselves and your technique. Using the wrong surface can give you lots of headaches but using the right one makes it easy and fun.
Thanks! I love your explanation of these techniques: I'm doing my first model since I was a teenager and the first one I've ever done any weathering on. Looking forward to trying these out.
Thank you thank you thank yoy Finally a spot -on , simple,ordered and easy to follow tut. Can you please make a few more regarding wwathering with oil paints ?
If you use odorless thinner instead of white spirit or zippo fluid, you do not have to varnish the surface as long as the paint is cured. In fact, it does not damage the decals either although you may need to locally varnish to blend in the decal film. Eduard decals, when the film is pulled, do not need any protection. It not only saves time and varnish but the paint surface reacts nicely with the oil paint. This technique definitely works wth an acrylic paint base.
Rookie here....what is the benefit of using a matt coat (xf-86) over just the regular clear tamiya has? I thought the gloss clear made it easier to work with the wash and streak and clean what you dont want off the model?
Gloss is fantastic if you don't want to blend or manipulate the wash in any other way than just wiping off the excess when you're done - this is because the surface is extremely smooth, so it doesn't have anything to grip onto apart from surface features like panel lines (so it's great if you just want to do a panel line wash) On the other hand, a Matt coat is pretty rough on a nano scale, allowing the wash to grip better, and allowing for easier blending and manipulation on the models surface :) hope this helps!
Acrylic paint isnt affected by white spirit once dry and depending on what you are doing, a gloss varnish allows the oils/enamels to flow around details better
A gloss varnish is great for a wash, if your intention is to not blend it at all - for any kind of blending or other kinds of oil weathering, a satin or Matt coat is essential
Very nice tutorial, I will just add two tips. First, not go cheap with oil paints. Better oil paints are expensive indeed, but only for artists, because we as plastic kit modelers use typically such a miniscule amount that a single tube will probably last forever. The second tip, instead of using artist's white spirit which can be expensive and difficult to get by, there is a good alternative of using zippo fluid (for lighters). It has very practical packaging for dispensing small well controlled amounts, it works well, costs almost nothing (like 2 USD per 5 oz) and is available pretty much everywhere.
Unfortunately there's not much you can do with raised panel lines :( it's possible to apply it to one side of the panel line, however removing the excess is much harder as you have to manually keep it in place with the brush, maintaining the placement of the wash.
Great tips for all modelling skills. As a not so beginner modeller it's really good to refresh those techniques that are often forgotten....so, thanks for providing them!
I have a b17 bomber that's a bit too dark do you think a dot filter in white and green and yellow would lighten my olive drab Matt Finnish or gloss it first
That could potentially work, using white spirit to blend in the dot filter, however my best recommendation would be to use an airbrush to spray a highly thinned layer of a lighter olive drab, bringing up the overall brightness in a uniform way - this is known as a colour filter, or colour grading. If you don't have an airbrush however then a dot filter could definitely help to bring up the brightness to a certain extent :)
Thanks for this. I've just returned to aircraft kits after a 30 year hiatus and this was really helpful in getting a grasp of oils. Any advice on how to use oils to recreate smoke/streak effect around gun ports/barrels to represent them having being fired?
No problem! Your best bet for this is making use of a similar technique to the streaks I did in this video, however with a dry blending technique instead. On a satin base layer, apply small specks of the oil at the start of where you want the smoke to start, and then drag it backwards with a soft brush and circular motions so you sort of create a blended smoky effect. Might take a few tries to get the effect you want, but should look good in the end! Best example I have of this is in my Eduard 1/48 mitsubishi zero build video where I use this technique on the wing mounted machine guns :)
Do you need to seal the oil paint highlights with a clear coat , also how long do you need to let oil paint dry ? Good video you answered a couple of questions I had about Oils , Acrylics and enamels.
Depending on the amount of oils you've applied, anywhere from 12 hours to 2 days is required for them to dry. For light weathering, I tend to cheat and go for about 6 hours, but 12 hours is recommended. If you're doing more work over the top, a clear coat is necessary - and it's recommended even if you aren't :)
Hi i have just two questions i saw on the internet that its posible to do squash efect whit tamyia and few drops of thinner and the second question is how to apply decals? Thank you for any response and btw great video
Heya :) I'm not quite sure what you mean by squash effect, do you have a video you could link? In terms of decals, my top tip would be to buy a bottle of micro set, and a bottle of micro sol - they're fantastic. Micro set helps the decal stick to the surface, and micro sol is applied later on to soften it into the surface details. If you search "micro sol and set tutorial" on TH-cam there should be a lot of material to work with! Other than that, just take your time and maybe do a few practice runs on a throwaway model if you have one :)
Lots of information here! Thanks for sharing! I’m new into modeling and these informational videos are great for learning. (I should say I’m new back into modeling, did models when I was a kid. Now that I’m retired, I find it a very relaxing hobby!)
I used Tamiya acrylics for my base paint, sealed with 2 coats of X-22, then did decals. I attempted to use Tamiya panel liner for washing over the X-22 with Testors Enamel to wipe off excess. Seems something I did was not right as I could feel the X-22 coat coming up as the Q-tip with the enamel thinner started sticking. I stopped and saved the model but do you have any advice for this?
@@UTBproductions1 it's possible that testors enamel thinner is of the hotter variety, meaning it will react with a wider variety of paints and varnishes than, say, an artist's white spirit (though I've never used testors so can't be 100% sure). My advice would be to try and pick up some artist's white spirit, or dedicated tamiya enamel thinners, and trying it out from there. Alternatively, if that doesn't work, it could be to do with the application of varnish. If you're hand brushing I'd instead opt for a spray/rattle can, and if you're already spraying it, maybe try spraying it a bit thicker so that it self-levels and creates a good solid layer. Hope it goes well for you!
@ModellingWeekly man, thanks for the quick reply! I definitely think the Testors is too hot. I airbrushed the x-22 with IPA as thinned 50/50. Still testing things out but will try a thicker coat, artist white spirit, and maybe a longer cure time. Thank you so much!
I really have to thank you, I'm stsrting om the scale modelling world and Oil weathering and weathering by itself looks really complicated. But your video makes it look fairly simple and breaks it down enough so even a rookie like myself can actually fe motivated to try these effects out. I'll be sure to try these, thanks and great video!
I just airbrushed an armor model (1/35) with craft acrylics (I am doing a test with them, i usually use Tamiya acrylics.) Can i apply your technics the same way on it? Thxs
@@ModellingWeekly I have been using it for 20 years. When model is all finished, you spray it and it gives it a real nice flat look. Also it hides a bunch of modeling imperfections . I don’t know how to post a pic or link here.
@@vaindioux if you know it and it's reliable then I don't see why not - probably worth trying it out with oils on a test model beforehand though, just to be on the safe side
Because it's a very small layer of paint you're applying on the model, most oil weathering methods will be ready for a spray-on varnish after ~6 hours, and will otherwise be rock hard within 24 hours (if you wanted to brush paint a varnish over the top)
Capillary action with oil paints works best over a layer of gloss varnish in my experience , the shine of which is ultimately cancelled by a layer of matt varnish used for the final sealing / varnish layer , after your decals and weathering has been applied .
For a wash that's true, but a Matt layer is optimal for any sort of oil weathering other than that, plus the wash still works fine with it in my experience
@@ModellingWeekly Oh i did mean for a pin wash / panel lining indeed ! I still have to try out a bunch of other techniques as i'm mostly into wargaming miniatures such as Warhammer , and nailing a fitting style for tanks in that universe is "hard" . Too realistic weathering looks out of place , not realistic enough doesn't look good either ...
I'm going to try weathering. If I've used acrylic paint for base layer is it ok to use an acrylic matt varnish as barrier between the oil efffects or does it have to be an polyurethane for example. Cheers
Thanks for a nice primer on weathering. I'm working on a USN catapult launched Kingfisher OS2-U 3 in "bright sea blue" livery. Can you make recommendation regarding colors/technique to imitate the whitish, chaulky look of sun-damaged dark blue paint?
I'd say the best way to do this is to literally use white oil paint, possibly off white, to hint at patches of sea salt that have deposited on the plane. I've seen it done before and it looks pretty effective if used sparingly. An alternative would be to add some pretty heavy preshading and post shading in the areas you want the effect to be, so it looks like the structure is showing through
@@Jimmy-sb3fc unfortunately oil paints aren't ideal for airbrushing as they have heavy pigment & binder, and they don't atomise well at all - instead I'd recommend spraying with modelling acrylics or lacquers :)
When working with oils/white spirit on top of enamels, I'd definitely lay down some kind of varnish (doesn't really matter what) just to protect the paint from any damage :) that really goes for any kind of paint, but enamels in particular as white spirit is a type of enamel thinner
@@LuisVazquez-hx3bk he used quite a hot type of mineral spirits (i.e. pretty dangerous), I wouldn't recommend this for models. Instead I'd go for artists white spirit, or dedicated oil/enamel thinners for modelling
Depends on the thickness of the oils - heavy weathering should probably be left for a day or two, whereas if you've just applied an oil wash and some basic blending then you can afford waiting only 5 or 6 hours. Thats if you're spraying the varnish coat over the top however - if you're handbrushing then it's essential that the oil paint has fully cured, so I'd leave it for around 2 days in thet situation
You can use products like VMS weathering carrier, odourless spirits and other white spirit clones, but unfortunately due to the chemical makeup of oil paint you can't use different types of chemicals
Yeah, just soak a brush with white spirit so that it's damp but not dripping, and then use that to remove any oil paint that you don't want to be there :)
So long as the oil paint used for the wash dries properly, it's not strictly necessary to clear coat. The situation where I would clear coat within the weathering process however is when highlighting, as the highlights are susceptible to mixing with the wash colour and becoming muddy :)
As someone who's new and have lil to no idea about paintings/paints, Can I not use Enamel colors for panel line washes? does white spirit not help wipe out the enamel colors?
You can if you wish, though after 2 or 3 days they will be properly dry (This depends on the quality of the paint, as some can be 'oilier' than others so to speak). I always seal mine no matter what just to give some extra protection. If you plan to do another layer of weathering on top, then you must seal the first layer.
If you're talking oil paints, I think a good brown, black and white should cover you most of the time. In terms of just normal paint, it really depends what you plan working on. There's so many specific shades that it's hard to choose. I'd look into the schemes of some kits you'd like to build, and then choose paints based on those. A good tip is to also choose schemes on kits with similar colours, just so you don't have to buy too many new paints per kit
Hello! I have a question about oil paints and washes based on them. I have come across models where these techniques were used and they were greasy in touch, even though it had been weeks since they were completed. Several of my friends have also encountered the problem that the satin/matt varnish applied at the end of the work cracked where it came in contact with the oil paint (even if they applied it after few days of drying time). Here, from what I've known it's because oil paint can release gaseous substances over time and that may be reason for this happened. I paint mostly miniatures for gaming purpose, sometimes something for dioramas (and I want to try some scale models) and have never used oil paints before. I would like to expand my workshop with them. However, I'm afraid to have similar experiences I mentioned above. What could be the reason for such greasy feel and cracking of the paint applied on oil paint? How to prevent this from happening? Have your models also become greasy to the touch after years or do you not have this problem. Can oil paint react with paints applied previously? Please help :-)
Hi! I can't say I've had this problem before. Oil paints are fairly inert, so I doubt it's reactions with previous layers that is the issue. My best guess as to why this is happening is either because the oils have separated in the tube, or because they have not been applied to a piece of cardboard or a napkin before hand. Another likely cause could be mixing the oils with a substance that isn't soluble in them - water, lacquer thinners, acrylics thinners, amongst others, shouldn't be mixed with oils. Though I doubt this is the cause of the issue. My best solution at this point is to hop on my discord, and post a message in the help-centre section, where you might be able to find someone with similar issues! I really hope it gets sorted for you mate
@@epicforger12345 ahhh, apologies lol, I believe it would have been some kind of sepia, though any dark brownish tone would be adequate for those sorts of stains
Thinning ratios in honesty depend heavily on a lot of factors, including whether or not you plan to spray it, what brand, what type, what surrounding air temperature there is, so the best thing to do is experiment on a test model if you can :) (all my paints and varnishes are thinned by eye)
You can do it with essentially any modeller-branded varnish! My favourites are tamiya acrylics, Mr color GX lacquers, and I believe tamiya lacquers are pretty good as well - though can't confirm this as I haven't use those in particular yet. The key is to let them fully cure before working on top of the varnish layer
@@ModellingWeekly I applied AK gloss to a model and the next weekend I used Tamiya panel wash and it failed. I was, like gummy, the panel washer wouldn't come off. Luckily it was in a spot i can't see plus nobody other then myself will see it.
@@danaringquist9730 that's really odd, unfortunately I don't have any experience with AK varnishes so I can't really give further assistance with that - if you contact someone in the help centre of my discord server you might be able to get some extra insight however :)
Just tried this and damn near stripped all the paint from my model! I guess u cant do this technique with enamel paints and humbrol clear coats? Or did i do something wrong?
You're correct, if you used enamel paints to begin with then a good varnish layer over the top is essential. Hunbrol clear coats should work in theory, in fact I used them a while back before I switched to lacquers. Need to make sure they have properly cured first though. Also, if you're hand brushing the varnish I'd highly recommend using a rattle can instead to get a more consistent coat 👍
EXELENTE EXPLICASION PARA LOS PRINCIPIANTES COMO YO QUE VUELVO AL MODELISMO DESPUÉS DE MUCHOS AÑOS GRACIAS POR EL TUTORIAL SEGUIRÉ TÚ CANAL PARA FUTURAS REFERENCIAS GRACIAS DESDE MÉXICO.
Abteilung in fact ARE in the low quality range. Good enough for modelling but no comparison with high end or even above average stuff. I didn't know until I had my mum who is a professional artist compare them with her gear. We had a good laugh.
@@ModellingWeekly yep this video will help a lot thanks, I’ll get the better oil paints and I already got some odourless thinners so it’s good to go 👍🏻
Frequently asked questions in the description! I hope you guys find this helpful!
Quick question, once I’ve applied oils to a model such as the dot effect should I leave them for a bit or can I go straight into blending?
@@jpw1812 You can go straight in for blending! Same goes for any streaking or highlights, its ready to go as soon as you apply the paint!
@@ModellingWeekly ok thanks!!
Hey there, I read in the description that you said you can put a varnish over oil weathering effects, I've heard that specific varnishes (such as acrylics) will NOT stick to oils, I just don't want anyone to ruin their model. Anyways great video. You are one of my favourite modelling You Tubers (I have no idea why you don't have more subscribers)!
Cheers, Jake
@@Jake-jw3sk that's a very interesting point! I haven't experienced the issue myself, though I'll correct the description now! Thanks!
practical and effective weathering technique, thanks
Nice Toutorial! Helps me a lot. I'm building models for over 16 years and never tryed some ot the techniques u are presenting here.
Very informative and helpful, thanks for sharing
I have tested a few flat varnishes for a base coat to do oil weathering on and I can confirm that XF-86 works great, it's the best for oils that I tested yet. I thin 1 part xf-86 to 2 parts mr color leveling thinner for the best results. Thinning with Isopropyl Alcohol leaves it chalky and thinning with X20A leaves it rough and blotchy. Mr color leveling thinner has the absolute best result with xf-86. As far as using oils over it, it's great, the oils grip well to it and they level out, even out and blend beautifully on it. I've used other flat varnishes that were just a little too smooth and trying to blend oils was very difficult be cc'd cause they would just slide around too easily. Xf-86 doesn't have this problem. The quality of the surface you're putting oils on is just as important as the quality of the oils themselves and your technique. Using the wrong surface can give you lots of headaches but using the right one makes it easy and fun.
Just bought some oils to use so perfect timing ,thanks again for your tips, they are much appreciated
No problem! Enjoy your oils 👍
Thanks! I love your explanation of these techniques: I'm doing my first model since I was a teenager and the first one I've ever done any weathering on. Looking forward to trying these out.
Glad you could fine it useful 😄 good luck with your future models!
Best video I’ve found on oils!!
I’m going to use them on my Tamiya 1/32 Corsair!!!
Can’t wait to get to that stage!
Really happy you found it useful mate! Very good luck on your build 😄
Thank you thank you thank yoy
Finally a spot -on , simple,ordered and easy to follow tut. Can you please make a few more regarding wwathering with oil paints ?
Glad you found it useful! I will definitely do a more advanced one in the future :D
If you use odorless thinner instead of white spirit or zippo fluid, you do not have to varnish the surface as long as the paint is cured. In fact, it does not damage the decals either although you may need to locally varnish to blend in the decal film. Eduard decals, when the film is pulled, do not need any protection. It not only saves time and varnish but the paint surface reacts nicely with the oil paint. This technique definitely works wth an acrylic paint base.
Good stuff 👍
Which brand of odorless thinner?
@@kaj160 Any odorless thinner should work from art stores or even Amazon. Nut, to be sure, do some tests before you use it on the real piece.
Rookie here....what is the benefit of using a matt coat (xf-86) over just the regular clear tamiya has? I thought the gloss clear made it easier to work with the wash and streak and clean what you dont want off the model?
Gloss is fantastic if you don't want to blend or manipulate the wash in any other way than just wiping off the excess when you're done - this is because the surface is extremely smooth, so it doesn't have anything to grip onto apart from surface features like panel lines (so it's great if you just want to do a panel line wash)
On the other hand, a Matt coat is pretty rough on a nano scale, allowing the wash to grip better, and allowing for easier blending and manipulation on the models surface :) hope this helps!
Acrylic paint isnt affected by white spirit once dry and depending on what you are doing, a gloss varnish allows the oils/enamels to flow around details better
A gloss varnish is great for a wash, if your intention is to not blend it at all - for any kind of blending or other kinds of oil weathering, a satin or Matt coat is essential
Very nice tutorial, I will just add two tips. First, not go cheap with oil paints. Better oil paints are expensive indeed, but only for artists, because we as plastic kit modelers use typically such a miniscule amount that a single tube will probably last forever. The second tip, instead of using artist's white spirit which can be expensive and difficult to get by, there is a good alternative of using zippo fluid (for lighters). It has very practical packaging for dispensing small well controlled amounts, it works well, costs almost nothing (like 2 USD per 5 oz) and is available pretty much everywhere.
And it's safer. Used model-grade white spirit on a model, the paint came off.
So would you say skip Winton and go straight for Artist range by Winsor and newton?
Great no BS video. That soldier was amazing.
Thank you :)
Great stuff. So, experts, what if the panel lines are raised?
Unfortunately there's not much you can do with raised panel lines :( it's possible to apply it to one side of the panel line, however removing the excess is much harder as you have to manually keep it in place with the brush, maintaining the placement of the wash.
Great tips for all modelling skills. As a not so beginner modeller it's really good to refresh those techniques that are often forgotten....so, thanks for providing them!
No problem! Glad you were able to benefit from the video!
I have a b17 bomber that's a bit too dark do you think a dot filter in white and green and yellow would lighten my olive drab Matt Finnish or gloss it first
That could potentially work, using white spirit to blend in the dot filter, however my best recommendation would be to use an airbrush to spray a highly thinned layer of a lighter olive drab, bringing up the overall brightness in a uniform way - this is known as a colour filter, or colour grading. If you don't have an airbrush however then a dot filter could definitely help to bring up the brightness to a certain extent :)
Thanks for this. I've just returned to aircraft kits after a 30 year hiatus and this was really helpful in getting a grasp of oils. Any advice on how to use oils to recreate smoke/streak effect around gun ports/barrels to represent them having being fired?
No problem! Your best bet for this is making use of a similar technique to the streaks I did in this video, however with a dry blending technique instead. On a satin base layer, apply small specks of the oil at the start of where you want the smoke to start, and then drag it backwards with a soft brush and circular motions so you sort of create a blended smoky effect. Might take a few tries to get the effect you want, but should look good in the end! Best example I have of this is in my Eduard 1/48 mitsubishi zero build video where I use this technique on the wing mounted machine guns :)
@@ModellingWeekly Awesome! Thanks so much. Will check out the video and then give it a whirl!
Do you need to seal the oil paint highlights with a clear coat , also how long do you need to let oil paint dry ?
Good video you answered a couple of questions I had about Oils , Acrylics and enamels.
Depending on the amount of oils you've applied, anywhere from 12 hours to 2 days is required for them to dry. For light weathering, I tend to cheat and go for about 6 hours, but 12 hours is recommended. If you're doing more work over the top, a clear coat is necessary - and it's recommended even if you aren't :)
Hi i have just two questions i saw on the internet that its posible to do squash efect whit tamyia and few drops of thinner and the second question is how to apply decals? Thank you for any response and btw great video
Heya :) I'm not quite sure what you mean by squash effect, do you have a video you could link?
In terms of decals, my top tip would be to buy a bottle of micro set, and a bottle of micro sol - they're fantastic. Micro set helps the decal stick to the surface, and micro sol is applied later on to soften it into the surface details. If you search "micro sol and set tutorial" on TH-cam there should be a lot of material to work with! Other than that, just take your time and maybe do a few practice runs on a throwaway model if you have one :)
Lots of information here! Thanks for sharing! I’m new into modeling and these informational videos are great for learning. (I should say I’m new back into modeling, did models when I was a kid. Now that I’m retired, I find it a very relaxing hobby!)
Glad you find it helpful! It's very true, it's a very relaxing hobby!
Excellent, Thank you for sharing great tips.
Q: on an old kit that has no recessed but rather raised panel lines, do you think oil wash is suitable ? And should I still lay a flat varnish ?
I used Tamiya acrylics for my base paint, sealed with 2 coats of X-22, then did decals. I attempted to use Tamiya panel liner for washing over the X-22 with Testors Enamel to wipe off excess. Seems something I did was not right as I could feel the X-22 coat coming up as the Q-tip with the enamel thinner started sticking. I stopped and saved the model but do you have any advice for this?
@@UTBproductions1 it's possible that testors enamel thinner is of the hotter variety, meaning it will react with a wider variety of paints and varnishes than, say, an artist's white spirit (though I've never used testors so can't be 100% sure). My advice would be to try and pick up some artist's white spirit, or dedicated tamiya enamel thinners, and trying it out from there. Alternatively, if that doesn't work, it could be to do with the application of varnish. If you're hand brushing I'd instead opt for a spray/rattle can, and if you're already spraying it, maybe try spraying it a bit thicker so that it self-levels and creates a good solid layer. Hope it goes well for you!
@ModellingWeekly man, thanks for the quick reply! I definitely think the Testors is too hot. I airbrushed the x-22 with IPA as thinned 50/50. Still testing things out but will try a thicker coat, artist white spirit, and maybe a longer cure time. Thank you so much!
I really have to thank you, I'm stsrting om the scale modelling world and Oil weathering and weathering by itself looks really complicated. But your video makes it look fairly simple and breaks it down enough so even a rookie like myself can actually fe motivated to try these effects out.
I'll be sure to try these, thanks and great video!
Very glad you found the video helpful, glad to help! :)
I just airbrushed an armor model (1/35) with craft acrylics (I am doing a test with them, i usually use Tamiya acrylics.)
Can i apply your technics the same way on it?
Thxs
I'd personally apply a layer of Matt or satin varnish beforehand to be safe, but after that you should be fine yeah
@@ModellingWeekly would “Dullcote” work?
Thxs
@@vaindioux any varnish should be fine so long as it has the time to fully cure - do you have a link to this product? Not familiar with it
@@ModellingWeekly I have been using it for 20 years.
When model is all finished, you spray it and it gives it a real nice flat look.
Also it hides a bunch of modeling imperfections .
I don’t know how to post a pic or link here.
@@vaindioux if you know it and it's reliable then I don't see why not - probably worth trying it out with oils on a test model beforehand though, just to be on the safe side
I've painted with oils on canvas, and it takes forever to dry. How long does it take to dry with this method? Thank you so much!
Because it's a very small layer of paint you're applying on the model, most oil weathering methods will be ready for a spray-on varnish after ~6 hours, and will otherwise be rock hard within 24 hours (if you wanted to brush paint a varnish over the top)
@@ModellingWeekly Thank you so much for the video, and for the fast response!
@@Jimmy-sb3fc no worries!
Capillary action with oil paints works best over a layer of gloss varnish in my experience , the shine of which is ultimately cancelled by a layer of matt varnish used for the final sealing / varnish layer , after your decals and weathering has been applied .
For a wash that's true, but a Matt layer is optimal for any sort of oil weathering other than that, plus the wash still works fine with it in my experience
@@ModellingWeekly Oh i did mean for a pin wash / panel lining indeed !
I still have to try out a bunch of other techniques as i'm mostly into wargaming miniatures such as Warhammer , and nailing a fitting style for tanks in that universe is "hard" . Too realistic weathering looks out of place , not realistic enough doesn't look good either ...
@@Tomcat_Coyote all good! And good luck with your future endeavours haha!
Well done, thank you.
Amazing. Thank you. Very inspiring. I bought a set of oils from hobby lobby. I want to try this out on my Red Baron Fokker Dr.I. thank you again.
I'm going to try weathering. If I've used acrylic paint for base layer is it ok to use an acrylic matt varnish as barrier between the oil efffects or does it have to be an polyurethane for example. Cheers
An acrylic Matt varnish should in theory be ok, but it's always good to do a test run just in case if you're in any doubt
great tecniques! thank you
after using oils would you apply a clear coat varnish again
I tend to yeah once they're fully cured after a couple of days, just to seal them in
Wonderful presentation. Thanks for shooting and sharing. Mr. Bezos thanks you for the free plug.
My pleasure 😂 glad you enjoyed
Thanks for a nice primer on weathering. I'm working on a USN catapult launched Kingfisher OS2-U 3 in "bright sea blue" livery. Can you make recommendation regarding colors/technique to imitate the whitish, chaulky look of sun-damaged dark blue paint?
I'd say the best way to do this is to literally use white oil paint, possibly off white, to hint at patches of sea salt that have deposited on the plane. I've seen it done before and it looks pretty effective if used sparingly. An alternative would be to add some pretty heavy preshading and post shading in the areas you want the effect to be, so it looks like the structure is showing through
Can I thin out oil paints and spray my entire model like this? Thank you!
@@Jimmy-sb3fc unfortunately oil paints aren't ideal for airbrushing as they have heavy pigment & binder, and they don't atomise well at all - instead I'd recommend spraying with modelling acrylics or lacquers :)
Thanks for sharing your skill....this great....btw what is "White Spirit" ?...is they thinner or what?
Yup, white spirit is a type of paint thinner and cleaner!
@@ModellingWeekly oh ok, thank you
Hi i have email colors from revell. can i use oil paints to weather or do thdy destroy my colors
When working with oils/white spirit on top of enamels, I'd definitely lay down some kind of varnish (doesn't really matter what) just to protect the paint from any damage :) that really goes for any kind of paint, but enamels in particular as white spirit is a type of enamel thinner
What about the spirit that Bob Ross used?
It suppose to be odorless.
@@LuisVazquez-hx3bk he used quite a hot type of mineral spirits (i.e. pretty dangerous), I wouldn't recommend this for models. Instead I'd go for artists white spirit, or dedicated oil/enamel thinners for modelling
@@ModellingWeekly
Thank you. I didn't know.
Super nice tutoriel. Just a silly question, when blending for the shadow or the streaks, is the blending brush dry or dipped into white spirit ?
Nope, just dry blending! Good question!
@@ModellingWeekly thanks ! Much appreciated
How long do oils take to dry?
Depends on the thickness of the oils - heavy weathering should probably be left for a day or two, whereas if you've just applied an oil wash and some basic blending then you can afford waiting only 5 or 6 hours. Thats if you're spraying the varnish coat over the top however - if you're handbrushing then it's essential that the oil paint has fully cured, so I'd leave it for around 2 days in thet situation
Great information here! I have just started trying oils for some weathering so this video should be extremely helpful.
I'm glad it was helpful for you 😄
Can you use any substitutes for white spirit, such as rubbing alcohol?
You can use products like VMS weathering carrier, odourless spirits and other white spirit clones, but unfortunately due to the chemical makeup of oil paint you can't use different types of chemicals
@@ModellingWeekly ok thanks!
Super helpful! Thanks very much
I still don’t understand how to remove oil paint . You just need to pour white spirit in you clean brush and then remove ?
Yeah, just soak a brush with white spirit so that it's damp but not dripping, and then use that to remove any oil paint that you don't want to be there :)
@@ModellingWeekly cool thank you
Did you use some 1/48 planes in their , because I don’t yet have a grasp of how big they are
All the aircraft in the video were 1/72 👍
@@ModellingWeekly thanks
Morning, after one applies a wash should you clear coat before the streaking??
So long as the oil paint used for the wash dries properly, it's not strictly necessary to clear coat. The situation where I would clear coat within the weathering process however is when highlighting, as the highlights are susceptible to mixing with the wash colour and becoming muddy :)
@@ModellingWeekly thank you
Thank you!This video help me a lot
Will this work with acrylic tube paint
Can i just use water instead of White spirit?
Unfortunately not, as water doesn't mix with oils :)
@@ModellingWeekly Oh damn, of course, my bad, im not really thinking... Thanks tho💪
As someone who's new and have lil to no idea about paintings/paints,
Can I not use Enamel colors for panel line washes? does white spirit not help wipe out the enamel colors?
Absolutely, you can! Oils allow for blending however, which enamels don't - it's up to you
thank you for this video, I'll have a go tomorrow
No problem 👍
Thanks for the info. After applying the oils do you spray on flat coat or gloss to seal in your work?
You can if you wish, though after 2 or 3 days they will be properly dry (This depends on the quality of the paint, as some can be 'oilier' than others so to speak). I always seal mine no matter what just to give some extra protection. If you plan to do another layer of weathering on top, then you must seal the first layer.
Great tutorial, thanks a lot.
Hi, I am new to modelling, what colours would you start with for WW2 model aircraft . Thanks.
If you're talking oil paints, I think a good brown, black and white should cover you most of the time. In terms of just normal paint, it really depends what you plan working on. There's so many specific shades that it's hard to choose. I'd look into the schemes of some kits you'd like to build, and then choose paints based on those. A good tip is to also choose schemes on kits with similar colours, just so you don't have to buy too many new paints per kit
@@ModellingWeeklythank you for your reply, It is the oil paint I was thinking about, so thank you. I will give it a try .
Hello! I have a question about oil paints and washes based on them.
I have come across models where these techniques were used and they were greasy in touch, even though it had been weeks since they were completed. Several of my friends have also encountered the problem that the satin/matt varnish applied at the end of the work cracked where it came in contact with the oil paint (even if they applied it after few days of drying time). Here, from what I've known it's because oil paint can release gaseous substances over time and that may be reason for this happened. I paint mostly miniatures for gaming purpose, sometimes something for dioramas (and I want to try some scale models) and have never used oil paints before. I would like to expand my workshop with them. However, I'm afraid to have similar experiences I mentioned above. What could be the reason for such greasy feel and cracking of the paint applied on oil paint? How to prevent this from happening? Have your models also become greasy to the touch after years or do you not have this problem. Can oil paint react with paints applied previously? Please help :-)
Hi! I can't say I've had this problem before. Oil paints are fairly inert, so I doubt it's reactions with previous layers that is the issue. My best guess as to why this is happening is either because the oils have separated in the tube, or because they have not been applied to a piece of cardboard or a napkin before hand. Another likely cause could be mixing the oils with a substance that isn't soluble in them - water, lacquer thinners, acrylics thinners, amongst others, shouldn't be mixed with oils. Though I doubt this is the cause of the issue. My best solution at this point is to hop on my discord, and post a message in the help-centre section, where you might be able to find someone with similar issues! I really hope it gets sorted for you mate
Isn't white spirits similar to mineral turpentine? So White spirits won't dissolve the varnish?
What colour did you use on the bottom of the aircraft?
Vallejo model air IDF blue if I recall correctly, though I'd recommend going for a blue azure shade
@@ModellingWeekly sorry I meant the oil colour for the underside weathering but I will definately remember that colour for future models
@@epicforger12345 ahhh, apologies lol, I believe it would have been some kind of sepia, though any dark brownish tone would be adequate for those sorts of stains
I`ve invested in a bunch of Abteilung 501 oils but haven`t used them yet. A bunch equals roughly 30 tubes. So are they any good?
Abteilung is a very good brand! Good purchase 👍
@@ModellingWeekly How do you know it is good or bad?
@@blle3110Because I use them now, this video is getting on in age now haha
Great informative video! I'm actually going to give it a go on the same airfix spitfire, mines just in the SAAF colours.
Nice! Glad you found it helpful :)
Can I use these super soft make up brushes for blending?
Yup 😊
Thanks , great simplistic approach. Others try to teach but go on and on .keep up the great work ✌🇨🇦✌
Thanks! That was very much the intention, so I'm very glad you recognised and appreciated that! :D
Sir hi, please tell me in what ratio do we apply Matt or Gloss varnish mixed with water to our models ? Do tell me.
Thinning ratios in honesty depend heavily on a lot of factors, including whether or not you plan to spray it, what brand, what type, what surrounding air temperature there is, so the best thing to do is experiment on a test model if you can :) (all my paints and varnishes are thinned by eye)
what do you clear coat over oils with?
You can do it with essentially any modeller-branded varnish! My favourites are tamiya acrylics, Mr color GX lacquers, and I believe tamiya lacquers are pretty good as well - though can't confirm this as I haven't use those in particular yet. The key is to let them fully cure before working on top of the varnish layer
Great job! This is so, so helpful! Amazing figure by the way, very nice. Have a great day!
Glad you found it helpful! And thanks! The figure is coming in a video next week .. 😄
Do you put the decals on prior to weathering, or after?
Always prior! Allows them to integrate with the rest of the model. Make sure to lay down a varnish first though.
So put down the varnish add the decals, then varnish again and finally weather the project?
@@terrihathaway7285 exactly right!
Does Tamiya TS80 spray can flat clear work same as XF86??
I can't tell you for sure, as I haven't used it, but I should think so
Modelling Weekly thanks for the quick response.
Great information - excellent voice audio in the vid!
Thanks! 😄
Harrier! When we will see full build video!? )
th-cam.com/video/lH4ibdLVLfg/w-d-xo.html Now! :D Enjoy!
you know what mad respect for including if you dislike do a thumbs down and explain, honestly just love the interest in feedback
Thank you :) I'm only here to learn and inform, so I aim to do that to the best of my ability and negative feedback can help if necessary!
can i use AK varnish??
Course 👍 all varnish should work in theory provided you've given it plenty of time to cure
@@ModellingWeekly I applied AK gloss to a model and the next weekend I used Tamiya panel wash and it failed. I was, like gummy, the panel washer wouldn't come off. Luckily it was in a spot i can't see plus nobody other then myself will see it.
@@danaringquist9730 that's really odd, unfortunately I don't have any experience with AK varnishes so I can't really give further assistance with that - if you contact someone in the help centre of my discord server you might be able to get some extra insight however :)
Cardboard you say, hmmmmm. Good tip. I continue to learn. Cheers for that. Very clear and accessible tutorial. Thanks
Glad you could take something from the vid( thanks for watching 😄
White spirit it's same is mineral spirits?
White spirit is a type of mineral spirit, so yes I suppose
White spirit is a type of mineral spirit, so yes I suppose
I feel like I already watched this - but also feel like I havent lol! If i do some oil washes in the future I'll try and remember to link back to this
Nice tutorial, specially the tip about putting oils on a cardboard before mixing them with the white spirits.
Just tried this and damn near stripped all the paint from my model! I guess u cant do this technique with enamel paints and humbrol clear coats? Or did i do something wrong?
You're correct, if you used enamel paints to begin with then a good varnish layer over the top is essential. Hunbrol clear coats should work in theory, in fact I used them a while back before I switched to lacquers. Need to make sure they have properly cured first though. Also, if you're hand brushing the varnish I'd highly recommend using a rattle can instead to get a more consistent coat 👍
@@ModellingWeekly D'oh!
EXELENTE EXPLICASION PARA LOS PRINCIPIANTES COMO YO QUE VUELVO AL MODELISMO DESPUÉS DE MUCHOS AÑOS GRACIAS POR EL TUTORIAL SEGUIRÉ TÚ CANAL PARA FUTURAS REFERENCIAS GRACIAS DESDE MÉXICO.
¡Me alegro mucho de que te haya resultado útil mi vídeo! Gracias por ver :)
Excellent video! Just about to venture into oils so this will help immensely! New sub from me 👍
Thank you so much, glad the vid can help 😊
The final technique is also called a 'filter' I believe.
I think you are correct!
A lot of people use Abteilung oils when cheap oil paints works as good as expensive when most of it are being streaked down anyways.
Abteilung in fact ARE in the low quality range. Good enough for modelling but no comparison with high end or even above average stuff. I didn't know until I had my mum who is a professional artist compare them with her gear. We had a good laugh.
Odourless thinners are worth the investment
For sure! White spirit is some nasty stuff!
It wont eat your paint as much indeed
Did anyone ever hear of or watch bashingkits videos? If so, does anyone know what happened to him?
Wow it's good to hear someone finally acknowledge that cotton buds with white spirits have a habit of pulling out the wash out of the panel lines lol
Very true! Few people actually mention it haha. Glad you picked up on that 😄
Good tips but no matter what I do i cant seem to replicate the results. I guess it just takes practice.
WHAT IS THAT CLICKING NOISE THUMBS DOWN FOR THAT
It's called backing music, if you don't like it feel free to not watch my videos :)
Yaaaay lol 😂
😂😂 Wish come true haha!
@@ModellingWeekly yep this video will help a lot thanks, I’ll get the better oil paints and I already got some odourless thinners so it’s good to go 👍🏻
"white spirit is an odourless spirit with a pretty awful smell"......... REALLY!!!!!!
You found the typo in my script 😂 congrats haha
Winston newton is cheap
You don’t need all the colors
Only 30 cent per tube
An cloudless spirit with an awful smell.
Personally, I'll blame @Mos6510 for mistakes that were made! Appreciate him suggesting popping over to see this, and Thanks, well done 👍.
😄😄 thanks!
Well done, thank you.
Is it also possible to thin down the oils with the tamiya X-20A thinner?
Unfortunately not, this is a dedicated thinner designed for the tamiya acrylic range :) artists oil thinners or plain white spirit are ideal
@@ModellingWeekly alr gotchu, im just getting into thinners and this was a great vid. thx for the quick response(:
@@natsirtboy4548 no problem :)