Dude... this stuff is pretty much a scam. You can't legally own or transfer ownership of a square foot of land in scotland, nor does buying a bit of land grant you a title. An NFT is more real than this.
@@RayneOfSalt why is it a scam? you do actually get something for what you pay and while you wont be in the book of lords you do get a genuine lordship title.
I've seen so many of your videos recently. I gotta say, your presentation, succinct way of showing and explaining techniques and reasoning is nearly perfect. Thank you.
What I love about your videos is the constant reminders on techniques and making no assumptions on your viewers knowledge. I took a break from painting, came back, and wasn’t wetting my dry brush before use. This video explained why the finish was so chalky!
This has helped me get back into painting. I've always felt I hit a wall when it came to painting because my fundamentals were always bare bones (black under coat, basic coating, maybe highlights or inking). This expands my horizon for painting by hand or air brush!
Since you are officially a Lord now you need to roll up to the next Trapped Under Plastic with a fur lined purple robe, and a scepter. And require Miniac to refer to you as Lord Jon the entire podcast.
I think people forget a lot of the time that you don’t need to pick up every detail and make it look like box art or a “real” miniature. That paint jobs like this are still beautiful and immersive and can very much still tell a story. Amazing video as always
What this kinda ends up doing is setting up a 'mother colour' scenario with these paint jobs. Every model will have that colour (assuming somewhat transparent paints over top) basically throughout. Will give that army/warband/whatever a really great cohesive look. Would be great to see what this looks like taken to that next painting step.
I love this video. I never thought I would enjoy seeing finished models that weren't painted with a dozen (or two) colors but the results here are spectacular.
@@BigBoii1369 yeaaaaah I tend to get carried away. I mainly paint single character miniatures and don't play any big army games so I like using more colors. Aaaand it's man. I'm a dude.
@@MiniPainterGamerDadD20 Well that's great then! Get carried away and have fun with it! If you paint only a few minis then I would do the same thing. I love painting and I always tell myself I will paint faster and more simply and then I keep adding more and more steps haha I am not adding quite as much as you but I start out with 3-4 colors and then wind up using 6-8. Plus washes, drybrushes, and mixing up those colors along the way. It's hard to do less, especially when your board game friends heavily compliment your paint jobs! I paint board games like Zombicide Black Plague, Blood Rage, Marvel United, ect. I have 10 million minis to paint but I will NEVER get them all done at the rate I acquire new games and the rate I paint minis lol
Been using this exactly style for DnD minis for a while now - I would say it's actually superior to full colour schemes for DnD, because it leaves room for the imagination and multiple uses of the same model with different descriptions
awesome stuff. with this foundation, you could totally take some time one by one to get them to a higher standard. yet still have everything painted for your games. definitely going to be trying that.
Going to add a minor step between the airbrushing and washes. Some airbrush inks *really don't like* any paint thinners. Test before hand, and if they don't like it, put a matte medium layer down between your ink layers and paint layers.
On projects like this I do my best to not fall into the trap of airbrush primer. Rattle can is faster, I'm not going to win an award, I'm not getting any younger, and it still looks fantastic.
I had a bunch of Rising Sun minis I've been neglecting for a while, this is a pretty great idea to get the team colours down without leaving them bare plastic.
I bought this same Air Brush, as it was the only reasonable option to dip my toe in the airbrushing pool, and it works great and has helped get a lot of minis started (of course none are finished).
@@sirrathersplendid4825 $60 ish for a perfectly serviceable setup. I liked having the air compressor in my hoodie pocket. When I was done with a color, I just got up and cleaned the airbrush in a nearby sink.
@@AustinLindstrom - My initial set-up cost was about $110, most of that being the compressor with 3-litre air tank. The Chinese airbrush came in at about $25/$30.
Yup. I painted all those (all the Massive Darkness 2). Still haven't done that enormous dragon, but allllll the rest. Army Painter speed paints take the wheel!
I painted about 100 10mm zombie soldier models for gaslands once with a black primer and green from above. Good tips in this video, I might have to go back and do a quick dry brush on all those
0:04 This is how an "unboxing video" is supposed to look. Looooooooove me some oilwash and makeup spongy. Sometimes I feel like I'm "unpainting" as much as I paint. 😁👍
I really need to use my airbrush. I bought one 4 months ago and its still just sitting here. I think im intimidated/afraid to fail . Thanks for the tips
I see no varnish prior to the old oil wash; is that a magic of production or do you just go straight over acrylics with all those mineral spirits...? I've been sadly pulling up paint when I wipe down with a makeup sponge but maybe my timing or pressure is off...?
I feel like this is a great way to batch out minis and if you wanted to take it that one step further just spending a bit of time on faces, eyes and weapons would give each one a little more pop. Great Vid.
The timing for this couldn't be better. My buddy got all of his Nemesis order in and this style would be perfect for them. Might also get my Space Hulk minis finished...
Ninjon I really enjoy your tutorials. I currently have an issue with larger resin models. My current hobby saw is too big and can’t make contoured cuts. Do you have a recommendation for a good hobby saw. Thanks.
Every time I use oil washes I'm left with a sticky residue that persists on the model. Im unable to place acrylics back overtop afterwards as it behaves as if it's hydrophobic. What am I missing here?
@@Hagzorz Thanks for the tip! I'm using Winsor&Newton artists line and a solvent supplied by the hobby store. They were fresh tubes so I'll try the cardboard technique next time! Should I be sealing over the oils before applying acrylics again?
Might not be relevant in this case, but make sure you DONT listen to the advice from the people in the artists shop where you buy your oil paints😅. To me they keep recommending me to thin the paint with linseed oil. When I tell them I like to thin them with odorless white spirit, they declare me nuts. Most traditional artists dont realise that minipainters are coming in to shop there as well😀. Make sure you dont buy the linseed oil to thin your paint. It will make the paint retain the oilyness, while white spirit breaks it down. Whenever i tell them i want to use that paint for pinwashing miniatures, they mostly just start ignoring me and think im crazy. 'Sure man, you do you. That'll be 6,99.'
I really enjoy this video and am going to use this technique to get through a bunch of my board games that I disparately need to get painted. Question however - Does anyone know what those paint handles/knobs he's using are? Or where to get them? They look like furniture knobs and I looked for them at 4 shops yesterday and came up empty handed :(
@Andrew McGuire Thanks a ton! I may just head to the hardware store and get some dowels. I can't bring myself to pay like $15 a handle for batch paint jobs. For detail work, I have a Redgrass handle and one of the GW handles, but for batch work? Not worth paying 18-25 bucks a pop for 10 of em. Appreciate the insight!
I actually did this with Cursed City although mine were in black and white for that old D&D OSR hand drawn high contrast vibe like in the player's handbook for Dungeon Crawl Classics or Lamentations of the Flame Princess!
So, at around 7:35 you say you can brush on that same primer. I haven't had a lot of luck getting anywhere near a smooth coat with my bottle of Vallejo White Primer, so I use it to touch up missed spots after I rattlecan prime. Apparently this isn't that bad of a thing, except some of the stuff that I want to paint is primarily white and the primer acts as the basecoat (Clone Troopers). Would you be willing to do a video sometime showing the proper way to brush on different shades of primer, primarily white and black, and what sort of result you can get from that? Priming is my biggest anxiety in the hobby, I think. I don't have an airbrush, I'm always afraid to screw up rattlecans and brushing doesn't ever seem to work out. I have two boxes of ARC troopers waiting for the day I may be able to get my hands on a cheap airbrush for priming, and I'm about to set out to prime 88 Zombicide miniatures from rattlecans and am really nervous about it. Going to try Zenithal Highlighting for the first time with some Rust-oleum 2x. Fingers crossed. Love your videos by the way!
Thin out your vallejo primer more. It will go on smooth. I use their thinner mediums and glaze medium. I can get smooth primer with a brush and the same goes for the colors. I will put like 4 or 5 drops of each into a color thin color coats and use a dryer so I can apply another.
I like the idea of greyscale or sepia for 3D printed Dnd minis. If you have a lot of Dnd minis, the idea of painting each and everyone can be... daunting.
Hi! My big step for slaying the grey is to buy an airbrush. But I keep getting stuck on what compressor to buy. I haven’t been able to spot if you have an (Australian) affiliate for a compressor please?
For those of you, like me, who are looking for oil paints now that you've seen this and had to snap back to reality when you saw the cost of the series Ninjon is using: I would recommend the Winsor & Newton "Winton" series. They are marketed as the student version (decent quality but cheaper) and can be found in a starter set on amazon with 10 colors for ~$60USD.
The Winton starter set, which includes those earthy sepia and sienna tones, can be had in Europe from about €30/$30 (10x21 ml tubes) or in a more basic version (10x12ml) from about €18/$18. You can also buy a Chinese-made starter set from as little as €5/$5 - Marie’s seem to be one of the better brands.
It is my humble opinion and experience that there is a distinct difference between Dry-Brushing and Over-Brushing and that the two work excellently in tandem. From my understanding what Ninjon is referring to here as Dry-Brushing is actually Over-Brushing. I love to start with Over-Brushing in the exact same manner showcased here and finish with Dry-Brushing for the more extreme highlights. IMO, the brush should be slightly damp for Over-Brushing and bone-dry for Dry-Brushing. Ninjon is a waaaaay better painter than me.
Honestly, if you just replace the colored zenithal with a normal black-to-white one and added a base coat of contrast/speed/transparent paints between that step and the oil wash, you've pretty much got a reliable high-quality tabletop standard, pushing into hobbyist display standard depending on how much time you spend on the final highlights.
But Jon, I want to see all of the Massive Darkness stuff Painted!!!!!! I blame you for my purchase of both Massive Darkness 1 and 2, and now need you to show me how to paint it all. 😂
I've learned a lot from this video, and the final results are awesome. Something I also learned is that Lord Ninjon...hates Knees and toes...knees and toes....
Brushing on white primer simply doesn't work, unfortunately. Only the dark ones cover well when using the brush. I still haven't found a reasonably fast method working from a light base into colour/dark, as I don't use cans nor airbrush.
Wanna be a Lord or Lady?! Check it out:
establishedtitles.com/ninjon
Scam, and its really not true. Just think anyone owning a house in Scotland owns the land so everyone would be a lord or lady
Dude... this stuff is pretty much a scam. You can't legally own or transfer ownership of a square foot of land in scotland, nor does buying a bit of land grant you a title. An NFT is more real than this.
@@RayneOfSalt its fun to have and i got mine for free so meh
@@lewispowell1681 ok, but you understand that paying money to a scam is bad, right?
@@RayneOfSalt why is it a scam? you do actually get something for what you pay and while you wont be in the book of lords you do get a genuine lordship title.
I've seen so many of your videos recently. I gotta say, your presentation, succinct way of showing and explaining techniques and reasoning is nearly perfect. Thank you.
Simple solution:. Move all unpainted and unassembled models to another part of the house. Leave them in the Gray Lands and live guilt free
"everything the color touches" "what about over there?" "dont ever go over there son" - Abridged version of the painting King XD
This guy gets it.
I've been doing that for years.
I feel seen. Or attacked.
This is the way
The monochromatic style is a nice style. Thanks for demonstrating it.
What I love about your videos is the constant reminders on techniques and making no assumptions on your viewers knowledge.
I took a break from painting, came back, and wasn’t wetting my dry brush before use. This video explained why the finish was so chalky!
Love the minimalist look of these. Nice, thanks.
This has helped me get back into painting. I've always felt I hit a wall when it came to painting because my fundamentals were always bare bones (black under coat, basic coating, maybe highlights or inking). This expands my horizon for painting by hand or air brush!
That’s awesome to hear Jordan. Also, I approve of your Packers jersey 🙌
Since you are officially a Lord now you need to roll up to the next Trapped Under Plastic with a fur lined purple robe, and a scepter. And require Miniac to refer to you as Lord Jon the entire podcast.
DO IT
@@stanleycherry9133 yes 100%
If he doesn’t do it, he isn’t a Lord…
@@JoeFlamenco You are right
“I’m never gonna paint all those… ooh what’s new on kickstarter” is the most relatable joke you’ve ever made haha
I think people forget a lot of the time that you don’t need to pick up every detail and make it look like box art or a “real” miniature. That paint jobs like this are still beautiful and immersive and can very much still tell a story. Amazing video as always
No. I have to. Everything needs to look unique and realistic. It’s not finished if it doesn’t have its own personality.
What this kinda ends up doing is setting up a 'mother colour' scenario with these paint jobs. Every model will have that colour (assuming somewhat transparent paints over top) basically throughout. Will give that army/warband/whatever a really great cohesive look. Would be great to see what this looks like taken to that next painting step.
Thank you , Jon .
🐺
I love this video. I never thought I would enjoy seeing finished models that weren't painted with a dozen (or two) colors but the results here are spectacular.
12-24 colors?! That’s crazy man/ma’am… 12 colors is the maximum for a big ornate piece. Most minis get 4-8 colors
@@BigBoii1369 yeaaaaah I tend to get carried away. I mainly paint single character miniatures and don't play any big army games so I like using more colors.
Aaaand it's man. I'm a dude.
@@MiniPainterGamerDadD20
Well that's great then! Get carried away and have fun with it! If you paint only a few minis then I would do the same thing.
I love painting and I always tell myself I will paint faster and more simply and then I keep adding more and more steps haha
I am not adding quite as much as you but I start out with 3-4 colors and then wind up using 6-8. Plus washes, drybrushes, and mixing up those colors along the way.
It's hard to do less, especially when your board game friends heavily compliment your paint jobs!
I paint board games like Zombicide Black Plague, Blood Rage, Marvel United, ect. I have 10 million minis to paint but I will NEVER get them all done at the rate I acquire new games and the rate I paint minis lol
I’ve been trying to convince myself it’s worth it to do just this on some of my board game models. Great seeing how awesome it can turn out!
Perfect timing! Just bought all sets of Zombicide Black Plague/Green Horde and needed a quick way to paint them...thanks
Love seeing the winsor Newton paints in your lineup. I've been experimenting with acrylic gouache on minis. Matte paints. No shiny.
Been using this exactly style for DnD minis for a while now - I would say it's actually superior to full colour schemes for DnD, because it leaves room for the imagination and multiple uses of the same model with different descriptions
What a different way to paint! Love it!
You have no idea how excited I am to see something that’s not Games Workshop related! I am a dungeon crawler junkie, so this is awesome!
awesome stuff. with this foundation, you could totally take some time one by one to get them to a higher standard. yet still have everything painted for your games. definitely going to be trying that.
Going to add a minor step between the airbrushing and washes.
Some airbrush inks *really don't like* any paint thinners. Test before hand, and if they don't like it, put a matte medium layer down between your ink layers and paint layers.
Thanks for including the Liquin Fine link in the description
I never thought of using make up sponges to pull the extra wash up! That and using a red wash for an undead creature are genius!
Nice landing Lord John! That is a fine standard you breached in no time at all. On board with that plot all the way.
On projects like this I do my best to not fall into the trap of airbrush primer. Rattle can is faster, I'm not going to win an award, I'm not getting any younger, and it still looks fantastic.
where were you before i had to deep clean my brush of stinylrez, thrice
I had a bunch of Rising Sun minis I've been neglecting for a while, this is a pretty great idea to get the team colours down without leaving them bare plastic.
I bought this same Air Brush, as it was the only reasonable option to dip my toe in the airbrushing pool, and it works great and has helped get a lot of minis started (of course none are finished).
Recently started airbrushing myself after hesitating for years because of the cost. A cheaper entry-point would have helped.
@@sirrathersplendid4825 $60 ish for a perfectly serviceable setup. I liked having the air compressor in my hoodie pocket. When I was done with a color, I just got up and cleaned the airbrush in a nearby sink.
@@AustinLindstrom - My initial set-up cost was about $110, most of that being the compressor with 3-litre air tank. The Chinese airbrush came in at about $25/$30.
finally someone else who paints their base rims black!
I love that Darryl's moto of Paint Hard Paint Fast No Mercy is in the background
Perfect outcome for board games. Really cool finish and will look great on the table, in lieu of the uber bright orange. Nice
Love that final result, kinda has an artistic flair to it
Yup. I painted all those (all the Massive Darkness 2). Still haven't done that enormous dragon, but allllll the rest.
Army Painter speed paints take the wheel!
I like the eyes on your vortex mixer. Nice touch.
Thank you for all your tips Ninjon, you are the man!!!!
I painted about 100 10mm zombie soldier models for gaslands once with a black primer and green from above. Good tips in this video, I might have to go back and do a quick dry brush on all those
0:04 This is how an "unboxing video" is supposed to look.
Looooooooove me some oilwash and makeup spongy. Sometimes I feel like I'm "unpainting" as much as I paint.
😁👍
Absolutely needed this video considering I just got Bardsung and want to get it to the table asap...thanks!
Would you use inks at all? I have a magenta I want to use but I’m not sure what people think of inks over shades and oil washes
I really need to use my airbrush. I bought one 4 months ago and its still just sitting here. I think im intimidated/afraid to fail . Thanks for the tips
This is a really neat little idea that I will have to file away for future use, should i ever have to fall back onto it!
What's the name and purpose of the sponge that is being used for dry brushing? Great videos thanks again!
Been using some multi color washes over a shaded color black primer
Thanks for the tips!
What white primer are you using? Everytime I try it white is a nightmare so I prime black and then white ink over top
I see no varnish prior to the old oil wash; is that a magic of production or do you just go straight over acrylics with all those mineral spirits...? I've been sadly pulling up paint when I wipe down with a makeup sponge but maybe my timing or pressure is off...?
Did you use light amber to zenithal highlight your hair?
I fell asleep watching this video but not because it's boring I spent too much time in the sun and it was really comfy.
adding just one accent color to each model with ink, glaze or contrast would really make them pop, like the red accents in Sin City 🙂
Do you think wraithbone could work for the primer or does it HAVE TO be white ?
I feel like this is a great way to batch out minis and if you wanted to take it that one step further just spending a bit of time on faces, eyes and weapons would give each one a little more pop. Great Vid.
How do you use the liquin? How much do you add
What white do you use to prime? I keep getting jams from white in my airbrush no matter how thin i make it!
Where do you get the caps for the pro acryl paints?! Please!!
OMG JON!!!! LOL That was me too I got ALL of Massive Darkness and felt the same way lol. I guess I love grey in my life!
Great idea! I’ve had the bardsung boxes for a few months and there are a whole bunch of baddies that this would be perfect for
This would be cool with dynamic lighting too. Night time with a strong light source i think would be really effective, really boost the contrast
What cups do you use to mix your wash?
For even more speed use colored primer like brown and violet.
Do you cure your printed models before removing supports?
Did you need to wash thoes minnis before priming them
Great video Jon. Def gets the motivation to finish some models this weekend.
Hey I loved the sponsorship. So for Father's day I got this for my parents
I see you use oil paints a lot.
Do you know if water-mixable oil paints have the same properties/effects as traditional oil?
The timing for this couldn't be better. My buddy got all of his Nemesis order in and this style would be perfect for them. Might also get my Space Hulk minis finished...
Excellent video, much needed!
Even if you did not have land, Mr. Jon, you will be eternaly, Lord Ninjon
Ninjon I really enjoy your tutorials. I currently have an issue with larger resin models. My current hobby saw is too big and can’t make contoured cuts. Do you have a recommendation for a good hobby saw. Thanks.
Every time I use oil washes I'm left with a sticky residue that persists on the model. Im unable to place acrylics back overtop afterwards as it behaves as if it's hydrophobic. What am I missing here?
@@Hagzorz Thanks for the tip! I'm using Winsor&Newton artists line and a solvent supplied by the hobby store. They were fresh tubes so I'll try the cardboard technique next time! Should I be sealing over the oils before applying acrylics again?
Might not be relevant in this case, but make sure you DONT listen to the advice from the people in the artists shop where you buy your oil paints😅. To me they keep recommending me to thin the paint with linseed oil. When I tell them I like to thin them with odorless white spirit, they declare me nuts. Most traditional artists dont realise that minipainters are coming in to shop there as well😀. Make sure you dont buy the linseed oil to thin your paint. It will make the paint retain the oilyness, while white spirit breaks it down. Whenever i tell them i want to use that paint for pinwashing miniatures, they mostly just start ignoring me and think im crazy. 'Sure man, you do you. That'll be 6,99.'
Awesome Jon. Looking to use this on my undead army.
Im going to have to paint 50 kroot and was stressing so this video came out at a perfect time!
Question: Is the color coming through more from the oil wash then the airbrush spray?
So...what's the painting timetable for MD2?
Great 👍. Guess I now have no excuse anymore so I get that box of zombicide painted.
I really enjoy this video and am going to use this technique to get through a bunch of my board games that I disparately need to get painted.
Question however - Does anyone know what those paint handles/knobs he's using are? Or where to get them? They look like furniture knobs and I looked for them at 4 shops yesterday and came up empty handed :(
@Andrew McGuire Thanks a ton! I may just head to the hardware store and get some dowels. I can't bring myself to pay like $15 a handle for batch paint jobs. For detail work, I have a Redgrass handle and one of the GW handles, but for batch work? Not worth paying 18-25 bucks a pop for 10 of em.
Appreciate the insight!
Love your intros. Every time they kill me!
What kind of lamp you have on your desk?
I can relate to the start of this video so much 😂😂
i have massive darkness 2 coming and this looks great for getting all that painted
Great video! Thanks. I subscribed your channel😊
I actually did this with Cursed City although mine were in black and white for that old D&D OSR hand drawn high contrast vibe like in the player's handbook for Dungeon Crawl Classics or Lamentations of the Flame Princess!
So, at around 7:35 you say you can brush on that same primer. I haven't had a lot of luck getting anywhere near a smooth coat with my bottle of Vallejo White Primer, so I use it to touch up missed spots after I rattlecan prime. Apparently this isn't that bad of a thing, except some of the stuff that I want to paint is primarily white and the primer acts as the basecoat (Clone Troopers).
Would you be willing to do a video sometime showing the proper way to brush on different shades of primer, primarily white and black, and what sort of result you can get from that? Priming is my biggest anxiety in the hobby, I think. I don't have an airbrush, I'm always afraid to screw up rattlecans and brushing doesn't ever seem to work out.
I have two boxes of ARC troopers waiting for the day I may be able to get my hands on a cheap airbrush for priming, and I'm about to set out to prime 88 Zombicide miniatures from rattlecans and am really nervous about it. Going to try Zenithal Highlighting for the first time with some Rust-oleum 2x. Fingers crossed.
Love your videos by the way!
Thin out your vallejo primer more. It will go on smooth. I use their thinner mediums and glaze medium. I can get smooth primer with a brush and the same goes for the colors. I will put like 4 or 5 drops of each into a color thin color coats and use a dryer so I can apply another.
@@johnc.4871 I'll give that a shot, thank you!
I like the idea of greyscale or sepia for 3D printed Dnd minis. If you have a lot of Dnd minis, the idea of painting each and everyone can be... daunting.
Hi! My big step for slaying the grey is to buy an airbrush. But I keep getting stuck on what compressor to buy. I haven’t been able to spot if you have an (Australian) affiliate for a compressor please?
For those of you, like me, who are looking for oil paints now that you've seen this and had to snap back to reality when you saw the cost of the series Ninjon is using: I would recommend the Winsor & Newton "Winton" series. They are marketed as the student version (decent quality but cheaper) and can be found in a starter set on amazon with 10 colors for ~$60USD.
The Winton starter set, which includes those earthy sepia and sienna tones, can be had in Europe from about €30/$30 (10x21 ml tubes) or in a more basic version (10x12ml) from about €18/$18.
You can also buy a Chinese-made starter set from as little as €5/$5 - Marie’s seem to be one of the better brands.
I am in fact a lord since Christmas as well and life has never been so good
It is my humble opinion and experience that there is a distinct difference between Dry-Brushing and Over-Brushing and that the two work excellently in tandem. From my understanding what Ninjon is referring to here as Dry-Brushing is actually Over-Brushing. I love to start with Over-Brushing in the exact same manner showcased here and finish with Dry-Brushing for the more extreme highlights. IMO, the brush should be slightly damp for Over-Brushing and bone-dry for Dry-Brushing.
Ninjon is a waaaaay better painter than me.
Great content, can we get a list of the mini's that you used for this video? Did you print them all your self or did you buy them your self?
Those 13 hero models are the heroes from Bardsung board game
the anger mixer made me smile
Bro that Kenku Rogue is sick!
Do you have photos of all that you have done all together?
Gotta get it "POPPIN!"
Main!
Honestly, if you just replace the colored zenithal with a normal black-to-white one and added a base coat of contrast/speed/transparent paints between that step and the oil wash, you've pretty much got a reliable high-quality tabletop standard, pushing into hobbyist display standard depending on how much time you spend on the final highlights.
Great video Lord Lord Jon!
But Jon, I want to see all of the Massive Darkness stuff Painted!!!!!! I blame you for my purchase of both Massive Darkness 1 and 2, and now need you to show me how to paint it all. 😂
The best mini painter doing great videos ! You really have something that help me keep up with painting
I've learned a lot from this video, and the final results are awesome.
Something I also learned is that Lord Ninjon...hates Knees and toes...knees and toes....
I prefer to imagine that Scott Land is just a small patch of grass in Miniac's lawn.
That intro was 100% me. I even have that very kickstarter that I opened and just put up on my shelf...
Brushing on white primer simply doesn't work, unfortunately. Only the dark ones cover well when using the brush. I still haven't found a reasonably fast method working from a light base into colour/dark, as I don't use cans nor airbrush.
🎵head and shoulders, knees and toes knees and toes 🎵