Here's What A 173,000 Mile Volvo S60R Looks Like Underneath
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ธ.ค. 2018
- I crawled underneath our new Volvo S60R and I may have found something truly scary
Click to subscribe! goo.gl/5JdIrC
It looks like this S60R also comes with some improved suspension goodies, but we still have a long way to go before we can turn this into a proper race car. If you saw something that looked strange in this video, please drop us a comment down below!
Here are our other project cars on this channel:
Project Volvo C30 Civic Type R Slayer:
• Everything Wrong With ...
Project DadWagon Volvo V70R
• Our M3 Killing Volvo V...
Aston Martin V8 Vantage:
• Aston Martin V8 Vantage
Subaru BRZ:
• Project BRZ
For business inquiries email us:
contact@shiftinglanes.com
Buy our t-shirts to support our builds!
teespring.com/stores/shifting...
Support us on Patreon!
/ shiftinglanes
Follow us on social media:
/ shiftinglanes
drivetribe.com/t/shifting-lan...
/ shiftinglanes
/ shiftinglanes
Intro - "Bow and Arrow" - T-Mass
ncs.io/BowandArrowNS - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You're definitely leaking oil from somewhere. That is not normal. Most likely the cam cover. Your angle gear isn't seaping though so that's good news. My 2006 is completely dry underneath minus a seaping oil filter housing.
You do have stock springs in the rear, noticed it before you even mentioned it or got under the car.
Clunking you hear may be your spring seats, but you do have Monroe struts (OEM, not original to the car though) and they should come with the newer XC90 spring seats depending on when they were replaced. If you're going race car, just go for BCRacing Coilovers.
Rear end links are a bit worn. They're cheap, just replace them! Same with the tie-rod ends.
Overall pretty clean, minus the oil leak! Your 170,000 mile SR has less rust underneath than my 130,000 mile SR so it was probably kept in a garage and cleaned often. Run VIDA and show us what's going on in there. If you want to check your AWD for a stripped spline sleeve then try to spin the front tires on grass. If you have any torque steer/front wheel spin *at all* something is wrong with your AWD. 2004 and 2005 automatics had a weak spline sleeve in the angle gear and all M66 cars have a slightly weaker sleeve than the 2006 and 2007 TF80 cars.
If you have any questions about the AWD system (or anything else), I keep an eye out for you guys in the P2 R owners group and I'll gladly answer any behind-the-scenes questions there more in depth!
This is fantastic advice. THANK YOU! Will definitely get that oil leak checked out. In the meantime I’ll be sure to keep some extra 5w30 and keep it topped off
We just did some “testing” which will come out on Wednesday’s video. But I’m 90% certain my AWD still works. Will do a VIDA check very soon to see what else is wrong.
End links will be replaced when I do suspension work, they’re cheap enough and all those threads have mad rust on them already.
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes I use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 in mine, as did the PO in Pennsylvania. I'm in Indiana. I recommend a bit thicker than 5w-30 but that's always personal preference! Rotella T6 is a diesel oil and has a few properties that are good to have.
1: High film strength, the stuff sticks to your cylinder walls like super glue, as it's designed to handle extremely high cylinder pressures.
2: High particulate retention, as it needs to hold a lot of soot in a diesel engine
3: Excellent cold weather flow and lubricity for those cold morning starts
It's also full synthetic, cheap, and available in 0w-40 if you prefer! As for your end-links, the Meyle HD end links seem to be the P2R go-to choice. They're very very good. Same with the tie-rod ends!
Sweet! Adding those to the list of parts to get! Will check out Rotella T6 oil too
It's hard to tell from the video where that oil could be coming from, but if it's near the gearbox housing it could be the core plug on the block.
Also your reader suspension looks about the same as my euro3 d5 so my guess is it's stock.
@@ShiftingLanes Turbo drain tube is most likely leaking. Common oil leak. If it looks like a rear main leak, it's probably the tube. Cheap seal and gasket but you will have to remove the angle gear to get to it. Did it on my FWD T5 in an hour.
I’d check the pcv system. Clogged up pcv system is common on these cars and will cause a myriad of oil leaks if not addressed. Looks like rear cam seals are possibly leaking.
Will do. I believe the PCV was replaced about 30k miles ago, but I’ll have to do a check and document it.
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes Do a glove test. Put a rubber glove over oil filler at idle. If it inflates your PCV is clogged pushing oil out. If that is the case I'd do the repair ASAP! And when you do the breather box and hoses drop the oil pan and clean it out well. All too often when people clean their PCV they still have pressure which usually comes down to the oil pan being clogged.
@@ShiftingLanes I agree, PCV is definitely a good thing to check! I rubber glove test every 15k miles or so. Positive crankcase pressure will push oil out of every damn seal on the car. Cam seals are also a possibility for the leak, as well as the cam (valve) cover like I mentioned before. Can pretty much expect it to be the top end leaking somewhere on these if it leaks at all.
@@ShiftingLanes Even if the PCV was replaced if they didn't clean out the channels in the engine then they might still be clogged.
Don't forget to check the banjo bolt on the manifold, that gets missed a lot! @@ShiftingLanes
Love the videos ,fella's. I own a Volvo s40 T4 manual and it's a great car .I've had four Volvos now and it's great to see others enjoying Volvo, keep it going
5:11, May have a missing bolt between the angle gear and transmission.
Man... Volvo’s are so cool and you guys keep buying all my dream Ones (just missing a p1800ES and a newer polestar v60). keep up the great work on your projects and reviews. Your high expectations on your project cars motivate me to push mine further!
That being said, #TeamDadwagon for life!!
Hell yea! Also, keep tuning in for a while. We’re bound to own those eventually 🙂
-Gregson
Can't wait to see more of this Hansen! Merry Christmas to you guys
Merry Christmas to you and all as well!
-Hansen
A great car and really enjoying the Volvo love on this channel. My 2004 V50 T5 has 160k miles and feels fresh as a daisy
RichieT5
Well My 2005 V50 t5 definitely doesn’t feel fresh. Because a couple months ago I was driving on a dirt road and a rock hit my “oil sump” so all oil leaked out, also when I hit that rock my passenger side engine mount broke and the whole engine fell down like 2 inches and landed on the driveshaft so the drive shaft also broke. And after all that was fixed I somehow got a crack in the coolant reservoir which led to my head gasket breaking. And now I have just spent about 15 hours and 500 dollars replacing the head gasket at home and now I just realized that my camshaft sensor is broken so I really hope my car will work after I fix that.
btw: both my headlights are angled way to far down and both the adjuster things are broken so I also got to buy new headlights. + my right rear brake caliper is broken.
What sucks is that I bought the car for $4600 and I have spent about $3200 in styling, mods and service so i really want the car to work otherwise I spent all this money for no reason.
For oil leak, check the crank ventilation from the top of the cylinder head (underneath the sparkcoil shroud), it seems to be made of plastic and cracks easily and the whole engine gets covered in oil (including coils and sparkplugs). Volvo has made a better replacement part in rubber. You'll need a crimping tool for the hose clamps. Also replace the oil cap seal. These are the only oil leaks i've had on my 400k miles S60 T5 (wheras the last 250k is under my ownership). Never had any other issues with it really. Great car!
Thanks for the heads up! I’ll be sure to check the oil cap seal, that kind of a strange one... hopefully testing the pcv with the glove test for the next video.
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes Check the crank ventilation. I had that problem with my BMW. I changed everything, and than this guy said "Oh, check the crank ventilation" ...and I was like...duh! Problem solved :D
@@ShiftingLanes just to be clear, if the hose I mentioned is cracked it does not mean that the pcv system is clogged, just that the hose is brittle and causes oil to leak on top and back of the engine over time. Also, if replacing that hose, don't use regular hose clamps, they will not work, you'll need the crimping ones (learn from my mistake, otherwise the hose will slide off during load and engine gets into limp mode, later I also roughed up the surface on the cylinder head to make the hose grip better).
I love as a Volvo owner and enthusiast that this channel has gone full Swedish! 🇸🇪
I am subscribed to RCR (Regular Car Reviews) and they have nothing but contempt and throw full out shade on Volvos
Because RCR only thinks stinky hipsters wearing sandals owns Volvos and by Volvos I mean only 240's with bong residue in them
@@joedesalvo3316 you're not wrong there. SURE, the 240 is an iconic Volvo no one is debating that. Volvo is so much more than our beloved "brick". I truly feel my gen 1 (late '02 to '14) XC90 is a modern day classic much like Gregson's '05 V70R... and the C30 was almost born to be a one collector car oddity..
Good canvas to work with. Makes me miss my Flash Green S60R. Definitely do the pcv and go full ipd on suspension components with HD parts.
Awesome car dude.
i chased down a clunk in my 204.5 s40 t5. i thought cv joints, because the noise would only happen under a good load or on a sharp corner. wasn't the cv's. replaced lower control arms and wheel bearings, nope. after a bunch of parts and a little research, was the engine mount on the passenger side. So a hundred dollar part was the answer to my problem. but i spent way more to get there. Cant wait to see what these three projects turn into, I think you guys will have a load of fun.
Damn. Well at least you have brand new components now 😂.
-Hansen
Yes, definitely check your engine mounts, They seem to be the first things I have to change out when I get a used Volvo.
I think I might have the same problem I’ve changed the end links, control arm and even bought an axle and still nothing I’m not sure if it’s a right strut mount or engine mount seems like no one can tell me
I so would have bought this car if I knew about it sooner. For under 10k, even if you have to put money into it...so worth it.
for suspension get the ipd track sway bar kit, with some Meyle HD end links, get new subframe bushings with the Ipd poly inserts, polyurethane trans torque mount, and upper engine mount. And the ipd or Viva performance strut bar conversion kit
My S60 T5A has some of those same leaks. Thankfully the cam cover isn't leaking but the oil filter housing and turbo oil feed and return gaskets are. surprising since I'm quite literally 40k miles behind you exactly. MAKE SURE YOU CHECK YOUR HEATER HOSES!!
we have the same date system on the tyres in sweden
Check your axle bolt tightness for the clunking. I had clunking and tightened it up and it went away completely.
Finally some one who is doing something different
My favourite car brand is Volvo. I drive one myself which I love (Volvo v50 2.4i). I love your Volvo fleet of vehicles and maybe at some point I might buy a Volvo v70R or a Volvo v50 T5. Thanks for your great videos you put out. Pete UK
In terms of the oil leak, I'd whip the timing belt cover off and make sure it's not leaking around either of the two VVT pulleys. The cover could mask the mess and it might be making it's way down towards the bottom of the block. Definitely not normal my old V70 T5 was as dry as a bone the whole time I had it. In terms of your highway vibration again in my T5 I had both bad inner and outer tie-rods which caused a sensation very similar to having unbalanced tyres at around 60-70mph - swapping them out followed by a full alignment cured that. Glove test your PCV too - if it's never been done at that mileage it would be a good idea to consider doing as part of a stage 0 before applying any additional tunes (along with coil packs, and the correct Volvo OE plugs). Keep up the content, it's great to see you guys giving these older 5 Pot Volvo's some love!
I’ll have to check the covers. Good points all around! I think the next video will be of the glove test to test the pcv!
Thanks for the advice!
-Hansen
Check viva performance for aftermarket volvo parts, ipdusa, elevate performance. The cem modules under the glove box can give issues sometimes I'm some volvos, so if any electric issues accur check cem first b4 other control module.
The Sport Kit is pretty easy to find used, just watch for part outs.
Definitely do the tie rods, and replace those rear endlinks as other have said! PCV, even though done recently, how and when it fails, depends on how the car is driven. There are plastic parts that can break easily, and hoses that can get clogged easily. Also get a cover for that airbox for winter! Parts numbers for the sport kit you can find in VIDA, as well as any other OEM parts you need for the car
Great content though, where these are fun cars, glad to see someone enjoying it, and learning from it as well!
That’s a nice ride
Nice car, I would suggest looking into the power steering as a source of the oil leak shown on the bottom of the engine. The bottom of the reservoir tends to leak, I have just replaced my rubber hose to solve the same issue on mine. I would also look into the condition of all of the engine mounts and torque strut mount. These are common, especially the one on sub frame under the crankshaft pulley. As others have mentioned I’d look at PCV system too just to be sure it was done correctly and solved the blockage problems when it was done. Also for
Ease of access you may want to look into buying a CFEplus to play with the CANbus a bit. There are a lot of extras you can take advantage of without adding much to the car.
My 2003 s60 awd has some power steering fluid leaking i thought it was oil but the dirty from road grime made it look like oil. I'm not leaking oil but im using it somewhere seems i have to add some more then i usually do an i have a misfire in cylinder 2 hope it isn't compression on mine. Hope it is just the ETM needs cleaned or replaced. Love that R super clean looking. I used to hear clunking it was the carrier bearing and driveshaft to rear wheels. Good luck
I would highly suggest inspection of the angle gear collar sleeve. This is a common weakness in the AWD system, which usually results in stripping of the splines. The collar sleeve is an available part on VIDA and FCP euro, as well as others.
Evolve has a nice S60r body kit as did/does Heico if you can still find it.
I have a 2006 XC90 with around 220,000 miles on it and it looks and drives fantastic. You can roll under mine and it’s clean with no rust nor oil dripping everywhere. I probably will never sell it, I also have two more XC90S and one V70. They are in good condition but not quite as nice as mine and all of them are southern cars.
Amazing car
Definitely check out the PCV see if it has excessive pressure or suction from the oil cap or dipstick. I would go look at the turbo oil connections as well. Also check out the oil filter If I recall correctly it will pop when you are tight enough. I would also add some spring to the front. You are doing a lot of wheel rubbing because your steering stops are gone. I would do strut mounts thats a common failure on the P2 cars. The vibration is hard to diagnose. See if the tie rods solve it or it could be cv axils. On a car this old I would advise some subframe bushing attention. At least get new bolts and the Ipd subframe bushing mods get 4 of the O rings that go between the subframe and the unibody. That will help any other clunking
First think to check with a front end clunk is the upper strut mounts. As far as performance....
Step1) Stage 0
Step2) Shimmed block
Step3) Hybrid turbo/full exhaust
Step4) Tune
Those brake pads are almost smoked maybe a 1/4 of them left. Also you need to closely check the bushings on the front control arms. At 173,000 miles you will need front control arms if they havent already been replaced. Vibration can also come from wheel bearings or worn CV axles. The haldex will need serviced and as crusty as that driveshaft is I would start spraying the rear coupling with penetrating oil as it can be a real REAL PITA to separate. Spray it with penetrating oil as often as you can over a period of a week or 2 leading upto servicing the haldex. You cant really beat on the rear coupling with a hammer as the vibration dampener is in the way.
I'm looking into buying an 04 s60r auto, what are some things I should look out for? Would get a manual but nothing for sale anywhere near to close in my area. Im in AZ so rust is generally not too big of an issue.
i have a 2007 S60R. The oil could be the oil filter or maybe the turbo oiler seals. which should be replace periodically. The oil trap (under the intake manifold) is also and issue for these cars. It gets clogged and generates crankcase pressure that forces oil out of any orifice. Put a balloon on the dipstick to check for positive crankcase pressure, should be a slight vacuum. The shocks are also probably toast unless they have been replace (quite expensive). I lowered mine about 1.2" with eibachs. Looks like the front springs were replaced. The IPD control arms are great and also expensive to replace. I put a fat IPD bar in the rear and it helps a lot. The sway bar control links can cause a clunk and are easy to replace. Tie rods don't cause clunking, generally.
You can disconnect the DSTC traction control completely for those snowy day after you started the car do not drive away then hold the DSTC button until it says dstc reduced then push once the button and it says dstc is on and repeat this 5 times til it is off happy sliding !
The vibration can be that you need to re balance the tiers I had the same problem.
I have a cracked oil filter housing (black plastic cap basically) which gave me a similar look however that was before I resealed my angle gear (had it done with my clutch replacement). Make sure you run the "glove test" to check for a faulty PCV system (can make it run like shit if it gets too far gone). Also if you don't know that the turbo control valve has been replaced, go a head and do it, it's $45 or so for the stock and super easy to do, $80 if you decide to go with the iPD upgrade. Do some more research on the suspension because I have found that if I wanted to replace mine I'm suck with the fancy stock electronic adjustable ones lest I want to have the warning messages and lose my adaptive headlights, and the various adaptive AWD and advanced traction and braking systems. I'm excited to see what make of it. I'm keeping mine pretty tame as it's a daily driver so I'm living vicariously through you at the moment!
Thanks for the heads up! I’ll add the tcv on to the list to inspect. As for suspension, I may try to go BC racing coilovers or KW
-Hansen
Super excited about your S60. Wish I had the r, but my 06 T5 isn't half-bad
Thanks for watching! I can’t wait to turn this thing into an even better beast!
-Hansen
If you want more power in the car the t5 is better to build on. Mutch stronger block then the R. Its the same but smaller bore so the block dont crack that easily
Your vibration at 50-60 mph can be the cv half shafts and the tightness of them. Torque to 45-50 ft lbs and that could quiet it down. Also, Pegs are pretty notorious for bending some - when I bought my R it had 2 that were severely bent - the Enkeis that have for my summer tires now are both stronger and lighter by 1# per wheel - so a little less rotating mass is a good thing...
The clunk could be the tie rods, but not because they are bad - you may have either bad lower motor mounts, or bad upper strut mounts, or both. Also, those rear struts looked pretty scary - and looking at the price of C2501/C1501 struts is EEEK! I'm replacing mine shortly (as in the next week or 2) but they make horrendous rattle when blown out, but still drives "fine" (until you replace and realize how well the DTSC masks the weakness) As has been noted, rears look stock, fronts are lowered and appear to be an IPD front end kit. Not a bad thing.
The oil leak is NOT normal. Mine at 250k doesn't have that much drip. Other said check your PCV and I concur. I also think I saw a missing bolt on your angle gear to transaxle mount, and that is not a good sign.
BTW: Checking if your AWD is working - the actual best way is to put all four corners off the ground and then start the car and put it in gear (gently!) and all 4 wheels should spin. If they don't, bad angle gear or haldex being out (but smart money would be angle gear). These things are so well balanced, if your awd is out, you may not be able to tell easily.
BTW, Swedespeed R Forum has tons of info on our cars. ~Paisley Pirate over there...
Did you ever get the highway vibration and clunk figured out? Asking cause I am heavily interested in buying another S60R for a project car. Great job on the video by the way, especially when pointing things out underneath.
It ended up being an end link that was seized. There’s another video on it. Thanks for watching!
-Hansen
The opening had me like 😧🤭😳
Looks like the control arms have been replaced at some point, I would check inner cv joint for play it will cause vibrations at speeds over 50mph and if it needs a new axle I would order oem for the awd, aftermarket ones usually don't work even though the say works with AWD. Also replace the transmission torque mount and upper passenger mount, both are prone to need replacing at that mileage.
I have a 2.5t awd, non R, but check your lower ball joints with a bar, and check out your motor mounts. I had a clunk which I thought was suspension but it ended up being the lower passenger side mount.
Lift the wheels about 2-3" off the ground and pry up I between the ground and wheel to check ball joints. The engine mount, push down near or the cam cover (passenger side) with some force, if the mount is shot you will hear a clunk as the mount bottoms out.
These are great tips! Will include these checks when I inspect the vehicle again.
-Hansen
In the s80 there are fixtures for roof racks in the rain gutters, likely same in s60 - so don’t expect a rubber strip.
Hey! I'm from the Netherlands! :3
Has anyone tried converting the car from full-time FWD/part-time AWD to full-time RWD/part-time AWD? At 5:41 you pointed out something you called a something gear. Idk what that is but it's missing a bolt
Hi, where will I find good info on deleting the 4c. Cheers.
Personally, when I replace parts I like to replace them with performance upgrades if they are available. Especially if my intent is to use the car as a performance car. Looks like you have a descent start with the IPD parts. If you replace the rotors I suggest getting the 2 piece rotors for some weight savings. I look forward to seeing your plans for this car come to fruition.
Thanks for the suggestion. We’ll put 2 piece rotors on our wish list!
-Hansen
Saving a few kilos on a car that weights 1.8 tons .. ok
Beer me up yep, and then more and more, until you’re able to compete with corvettes and Porsche’s.
For all my dudes out there with more knowledge than me i have a few questions regarding a interesting volvo that i might consider buying.
It's originally a s60 2,5t awd 210 hp from 2004. But the owner have hade the engine,trans, swapped to a s60r engine. And i wonder if its about the same awd used on both or if its different.?
No bad looking, much better than mine. I have an 06 with roughly the same mileage and trim. Very interested on what mods your doing however strongly suggest looking at the PCV system, may consider pulling the oil pan while doing so. The plastic gets brittle and cracks can also cause extra pressure on seals and cause them to leak.
I just did the glove test and that will be the next video. PCV was apparently replaced at 150k miles (24k miles ago)
Pulling oil pan is a good call too
-Hansen
Has way more rust than my 98 V70. Did they do away with rust inhibitors?
Replace that angle gear oil as soon as you can. Make sure its full so i wont seize
The Oil leak 90% is the turbo oil cooling line.
Under the turbo pression the oil could leak.
You have a gasket to replace. Buy it a ipd or at volvo.
Also, Get the rings for the coling line too.
The sad thing.. you need to drop the angle gear to access to the cooling lines. I did it in my wife xc70 in 4 hours in a lift(need to remove the ball join, remove the drive axel, then remove the angle gear. try to get those new gearwrench there are 2 bolts in the top of the angle gear that are tide!! and get a transmision lift to remove the angle gear).
Also, Change the suspension tables, anti roll bar kit and tire rod end.
Inspect the ruber seat of the suspension..
we have the same tire date code in Sweden
I own two S60Rs, an 04 and 06. The 06 intermittently drops gears when on hot days on the freeway. Volvo wanted to sell me another transmission, but the tranny seems fine outside of the rare moments the car seems to come out of gear… figured it's a software issue, but it's been sitting now for a few years. Was thinking of just selling it, but ran across your video and thought I'd ask. Long shot, but why not..
a light blue vynil would look good (like the polestar volvos)
you couldnt do better than to do with IPD products plus they are quite helpful when needed, i have a s80 and experiencing similar vibrations at highway speed you may want to also check your front struts for this vibration, looking forward to your progress
stasio kacicki IPD is good for some things but there are other options. Powerflex bushings are the way to go, especially if this is going to be a “race car”. Kaplhenke carries full race stuff that may fit the bill also.
*Check your ball joints.* Any clunking is likely a ball joint (will present as a clunk over speed bumps, driveway entry, bumps). Basically the sockets loosen up over time and the boot wears and then lets water get into the socket, destroying it. Then there will be excess clearance in the socket (loose socket) and then the slack will cause a "clunk" sound. I just replaced mine and they were in crap shape. The control arms (IPD) don't come with new ball joints as with some cars, the end is just a hole. The car likely has original ball joints on it that are in the steering knuckle. They are a pain to get out and drive the new ones in. But i'd recommend checking that. Plus new ball joints are cheap so there's that.
The tie rod ends you were yanking on look fine. They will allow rotary motion but not along the steering axis. Any play laterally (Ie. steering left to right) would suggest worn tie rod ends.
Good call. I will check the ball joints next. I thought the IPD ones came with new ones but I guess not. Thank you!
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes Yeah, most control arms have them setup where the ball joint is part of the control arm, ie. if you bought a new control arm you'd get a new ball joint attached. Not so on the volvos. They are integrated into the steering knuckle and face downwards (mounted upside down). Again, it's kind of a big job. You will have to take off the entire knuckle to get at the balljoint and bang it out (remove brake caliper, disconnect tie rod end, disconnect end link from strut, undo ball joint nut on bottom, remove strut bolts from knuckle, push out axle and then detach entire assembly with rotor).
Once out, you'll have to undo the ball joint bolts (2x 14mm) and literally bang out the joint from the socket along its lip. A lot of guys use an air chisel for this but that is not necessary. You can use anything that can get under the lip and separate the plate from the knuckle. Once this is done you'll have to align the new ball joint to the knuckle but DO NOT try to seat the balljoint into the knuckle using the bolts supplied, as they will strip out. It takes a HELL OF A LOT of force to get the ball joint to seat. If you need any further info let me know. There is a whole procedure for this and it's a pain in the ass!
That sounds like a PAIN to do. I’ll look at the ball joints more closely. Hopefully it’s in good shape but if it’s bad or torn up, will definitely swap it out
-Hansen
The ball joints are actually fairly easy if you have the tool. I welded one up instead of buying one. FCP has a nice video showing the tool. th-cam.com/video/if5FYKpUAJI/w-d-xo.html
Hansen, clunking issues common on Volvo's due to weak strut mounts. Check the top of mounts and the rubber mount may be completely degraded. In some cases, the strut may protrude into the hood.
stiff tierods are good lose are bad so i would replace them if i had the money. and the swaybar bushings that where cracked might wanna upgrade them to some poly bushings, spings in the back i would say they are for a regular S60 not an R or T5, Think that the R and T5 S60 came with lowered stance from factory can't say that im 100% sure about that but sure seems like it cause mine is lowered and they are "stock" for the T5 "R's little brother"
Hey we both have the same cars! I have an FRS and an S60r 😂
Clean car otherwise. Replace worn and old bushings. It will definitely help. You have stock springs in the rear because the car has a rake to it.
Thank you looking for a Volvo s60r
The tie rod ends will clunk over bumps and worsen over time eventually going over speed bumps will make you cringe same goes for sway bar end links, the tie rod ends is more of a low pitched solid clunk while the end links are a little more high pitched tink most times it will make a double tink tink while the ends are always a single solid clunk. The shaking could be a wheel bearing, it’s a little harder to detect on these since it’s not as immediately apparent as it is in other cars. If it is only on acceleration I t may also be axel ping- easy 5 minute fix with the ipd anti ping axel bolts. Another issue on acceleration could be the transmission torque mount another 5 minute easy fix.
It sounds more low pitched clunk to me. I don’t hear the pinging. And as for the wheel bearing, that may be, but based off the wheel shake test there was no play in the rear, and only partial in the front. The play may be backlash in the steering rack...
-Hansen
Interesting
Go full stage zero to catch up with the maintenance that was most likely skipped. Replace all bushings with Powerflex bushings, don’t waste your time on the IPD ones. They are great but I’ve had better experiences with powerflex. Pads+rotors. Bigger inter cooler, downpipe and tune. If you have any money left over you could delete the 4c and run coilovers. I’ve said it once before but cannot think of a more expensive euro sedan to race with. I’m glad you guys are loving the Volvos so much but you’re cash is going to disappear so fast. I’m looking forward to your vid of shimming the block.
Thanks for the tips! Stage 0 is going to be our next path for prepping this car.
4C is eventually going to go away for coil overs
-Hansen
Hi, where will I find good info on deleting the 4c. Cheers.
@@harryjnr2335 I'd check the swedespeed forums. Maybe shiftinglanes will post more about it when they eventually delete it also.
@@texastwostroke9638 thanks for the reply, I will keep checking
Can you show little bit of the interior in next video? And are you going to do any changes to interior?
I’ll try to fit it into the next video!
-Hansen
Picked up my 175k mile S60R for only $900 !! Video on that will be coming soon
Shaking that starts around 60 mph is usually an indication of an alignment issue. Get the alignment checked. 4 wheel alignment for that car.
I would check the strut mounts. Push each corner of the car down with your body and listen.
You should REALLY fix those tires ASAP! Get same diameter on em before you fuck up your driveline... All 4 tyres should be changed at the same time! Also fix that oil leakage from drivetrain was it?
Also check pcv in engine and upgrade the BOV to a piston type from Forge! Those BCV to S60R, ive read that these dont like em as much as the T5 does! You can encounter issues if replacing it on a S60R to an aftermarket one.
Oil and Sparplug change and you should be good for some time if there are not any DTCs in the ecu!
The tires were changed to the winters. It rides so much better now, but still some slight vibration here and there. Glove test will most likely be the next video!
-Hansen
That's a leak. Crank seal?
Imam replacing the PCB system at 108k. That could be pushing fluids out.past seals if it hasn't been.done. it was at -0+ vacuum as I bought it.
I am....
On the S60 there was never a weatherstrip there where you'd think there should be
Thumping/vibration at 60 mph is a symptom of the CV axle going bad. Generally, it's the right one that fails first.
I would suspect the vacuum pump gasket for the oil leak
Hello I enjoy your show thank you. I have a stock S40 T5 r-design. I have the same clanking in my suspension. I'd like to put a kit on this little kitten and make her roar. The suspension clanking is killing me. I'd like to make all of it a bit tighter like new. I have 171k on mine.
Thanks
Greg
Just purchased an S60 & looked @ some chips to enhance performance, mileage. GTS;RS;&S from Race Chip.
It appears that you are missing your steering stops. They bolt onto the lower arms and the stop the steering on full lock. They don’t look they have been refitted to the new lower arms.
Thanks for the heads up, will look into this more
-Hansen
The steering stops are available on Amazon cheap, also if you plan to keep the car for a while. FCP euro has OEM everything, best thing about FCP is their amazing lifetime warranty on EVERYTHING they sell... including oil filters,oil, transmission fluid, wipers, literally all parts they sell. Pay only once for the rest of the vehicle life. Maybe read warranty though, I’m not positive if it’s covered it your racing or not. Can wait to see more updates!
I bought a volvo s60 t5 2.3t 2002 and 5 day after it started leaking from the crank seal and i replaced it with the gasket and o-ring for the oil pump but it still leaks and it need a crank rebuilt... the guy had used a oil engine stop leak because i found gunk around all the gaskets :( it really sucks
There are always surprises with a used car. My 52 MGTD, ‘58 Austin Healey & ‘58 TR-3 where interesting when I dug into them.
Rear Endlinks and tierod seem too loose to me... They should move, but not so easily...
Oil is OK )))) that’s breather system...the whole intake manifold needs to come off. Mine is much worse. Also there is no steering limiter on control arms, that’s why wheels are rubbing on the inside. There is a video on TH-cam where Russian guy fights vibration on his s60. Long story short you will need new driveshafts (there is a number of issues that worth checking but I find it easier just to replace the lot which will cost a lot if oem). That guy tried everything and end up replacing half of the driveshaft and making a custom bushing to fit between driveshaft and bearing...
I would advise to change a rubber strut mount regardless of its condition. Can be a source of odd clunking. They don’t last too much. Oil change in the gearbox with additional filter and radiator would give it a new life.
I didn’t see if there is a well known problem with power steering reservoir, but if it’s covered in s*it replace with one from xc90. Enjoy
One more thing the clunk might be but you should be able to rule it out if you say it’s from under the car- the upper engine mount can clunk when really really really worn out
I’ll inspect that next. Thank you!
-Hansen
It looks worn in the video, as does the lower front one. Might want to check the turbo oil lines for leaks. Especially the drain line for clogs if the turbo area is leaking.
I strongly suspect that the item you identified as slightly loose is the cause of the highway clunking.
The oil sweat looks like the residue of an old leak, so clean as much as possible then run it hard and garage it over some cardboard to see if there are any current leaks.
A lot of the bushings could benefit from poly upgrades when you do the suspension mods anyway.
I sincerely doubt that any body mods will improve this car when it comes to autocross, except from an aesthetic point of view. Ie are they a waste of money? They are unlikely to add any value to the car. There's nothing to be gained from aero in terms of autocross anyway.
Are there any worthwhile lightening improvements you can consider?
Wider rims and tyres for added grip?
A faster secondhand rack perhaps?
Tires will make the biggest improvement. I’m aiming for Bridgestone RE71R, which is the best autox street tire for the value. I’m not sure if 4C will fare well in autox so I will most likely swap it out for some coil overs.
Lighter wheels than the pegs will also help a lot.
-Hansen
DOT is same in the EU.
At 5:12, isn't there a bolt missing?
Yes there is a bolt missing, who does the maintenance?
Yes, it looks like he is missing one from the angle gear housing/ flange.
Florida is sooo 'whatever' when it comes to vehicles....I love it!.. you can do what you want to your car....... just about anyways.
You should buy a complete bodykit from Bluepower or just the rear bumper,it looks sick.You should check it out.
And ruin a nice car? Id go with stock R bumbers all life instead of some Bluepower riced body kit!
@@micke2943 Thats your opinion..For the project he is making the bodykit from bluepower would be perfect
Replace inner and outer tie rods, ball joints, and the shakyness should go away..and sway bars need to go
Thanks! Sway bars are definitely due for an upgrade. Tie rods will be replaced as well. Will document that in a future video!
-Hansen
i did this to my S60... They were worn becuse my steering box has some play! :/ Thinking of trying to tighten the steering box on its tightener, have found NO vids tightening this on Volvo... So its going to be interesting! xD
car is so fuccking hot dear lord!!!!
Chip Tuning for your Volvo
GTS;RS;S
From Race Chip
Your car is on IPD lowering springs, 1” lower than stock. Pay close attention to the bevel gear / angle drive on this; they live a short life, especially when turning up the power. Swap your valve cover gasket; I can almost guarantee that’s where much of the oil is leaking from. I think you definitely found your clunk though 👍
Thank you for the suggestions! I’m gonna add that to the list of parts to inspect/replace!
-Hansen
Those tires were basically bold and junk, could have been part
of highway shake, either way, totally unsafe. those rotors look thinner on the inside than outside and those pads are almost worn out. Mismatched suspension springs? Crappy looking intake? 173k on a 10yr+ turbo car that lived thru many winters? You have an expensive list just to make this safe reliable daily driver and after you go thru few ccd cards, you won't be thinking mods, it will be a for sale sign. Whatever kid owned this before, used it and abused it, then probably traded it for another victim his parents got him. Oem sized tires installed-$1k. Front pads n rotors-$500+. Car has 173k and if you don't know history of it- it will need a timing belt job$1k. avoid it, it snaps, you'll have another day6 of ownership and a $10k bill for engine replacement. Replace springs and worn out shocks all around incl new front upper strut mounts and alignment after -minimum $1k. Oil leaks-$1 to who knows...Will need to clean engine e down and recheck for sources, yes, not 1 source, multiple for sure.
Unknown suspension clunk? The rods looked good, if it was the rod, when you shake wheel off ground, it would have side to side play.I didn't see that. Up n down play could be ball joint or wheel bearing or control arm bushing.didn't see that. Most common, sway bar links, average $200. Ball join w control arm-$500+ w alignment. Wheel bearing-$500+. Bumper cover replacement with paint n install-$1k+. And of course-the unforseen-$$$$$$.
Dude ur rear "cracked bumper" aint thr bumper its the rear "fake ground effect". 2 the missing rubber on the rain drip rails IS NORMAL. thats iz how one attaches the storage pack on top
Are you disrespecting my eye 👁
Steering shall be tested engine started. There is hydrolic compensation
I have just bought s60 2.0t from 2007 from the first owner from Germany, with 180k and neat service history and my volvo is just like a new one compared to yours. I owned a4, 320 BMW and c180 and volvo is simply better.
outer tierod is shot
Im Swede and im a S60 2.5T 2004 owner and i use this Swedish site, biggest in Sweden for Volvo parts, styling etc. They have these that you talked about "cap" in the front thingy and alot more :)
vparts.se/se/tackpluggar-volvo-s60r-v70r.html
Wind deflectors, very populare in Sweden, looks cool to
vparts.se/se/vindavvisare-volvo-s60-00-09-4-dorrar.html
My car
www.garaget.org/?car=408602
These looks awesome to, makes it look more sport, tho its easier if you have a black car but i painted mines the orginal black, wasnt that hard and not expensive
vparts.se/se/ogonlock-till-volvo-s60-v70-xc70.html
Volvo S60 are heavy in the front so it takes alot of dmg to the front, steering joint and sway bar can make alot of sounds :) Doesnt cost to much to change and easy work.
The strut bearing and the strut storage sometimes need to be changed because its so heavy in the front
Get some fenderflares and wide tyres
I like your style
-Hansen
@@ShiftingLanes i would also recommend a spec clutch kit, lightend flywheel, do 88 radiator and intercooler, powerflex black-series bushings and some stronger axles and gearbox
personaly im more of a 940 guy, also pardon my english its not my first language(swedish is)
Time for the 19T Saab turbo upgrade
Also I did a FMIC but not sure I recommend because I have hard time going up inclines without scraping lol definitely more responsive and runs cooler than factory but this isnt my daily driver
Noo t19 is smaller. K26 hybrid turbo 👍🏻👍🏻
Sell it to me. That's what you should do