Holley carburetor return fuel system 101 & ( Mod Gone Wrong!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- So, with my recent mod fail and hair pulling trouble shooting, it’s important you learn from your mistakes. I’m going to go over the basics of a high-flow or High-volume low-pressure fuel system for Holley carburetors. Learn from my failures and save yourself from a WTF moment.
Fuel System:
Holley 12-803BP
Holley 12-803 (Not used)
Holley Black Fuel pump
Jeg's -8 AN Inlet hose
Jegs -6 AN return hose (not recommended) -8 AN is recommended
Jegs -6 AN
TPV Productions " Don't forget to subscribe! " - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Deadhead systems can improve vapor lock reduction by adding a fuel filter from a mid 70’s Cadillac, added between regulator & carb. It has a return bleed outlet that returns a small amount of fuel to the tank. This helps purge fuel vapor & increases fuel flow at low speed, keeping the fuel cooler.
OMG! This video was such a great help in trying to figure out whats been going on with my fuel system on my motorhome not getting fuel to my carb. Very informative! Thank you so much.
Brother I stayed till the end and became a new subscriber!! Thanks for explaining this!! IM new to the world of electric fuel pumps and started drawing out how to make a return setup work with a carb. I was pretty close. Thanks for the detailed vid!🏁🏁🏁
Stayed to the end very informative it helped me with my return dilemma thank you
Enjoy your videos I stay to the end and every time I learn something new. Old school all the way got a 93 f150 302
Great information! Thank you for taking the time.
Very interesting, I did not know 2 regulators where made, I went out to my race car and I have a dead head regulator and I do a return line to the tank, I have been having erratic fuel pressure, time to get the return regulator thanks for the info.
Just went through the same exact situation. Wish I would have researched it first. But didn’t even know they made these. But I had three of them layin around. My head was spinnin.
I watched the whole video.. It helped me fix my problem . thanks
Good work and very well explained....Thank you
Thanks for the info. Taught me something!
Hello, great Info! Did you figure out what the little plastic debris was that was restricting the flow? Thanks and Cheers from Motown.
Cool brother! I always make it to the end! Haha I love experiments teaches us so why not ....
I have the deadhead system on mine and dang it really does work a fuel pump! Once it’s pressured up you can hear that pump screaming saying come on man drive me lol ....
My man! I had one for years too return is far better than a deadhead any day of the week.
TPV Productions I bought a new gas tank had it sumped and had a 10an fitting welded to it . I went with aeromotive A1000 pump and boost ref regulator ..lines are fragola PTFE line ..
Hanger18 modded carb 850
My buddy with the chevelle on my channel his buddy built it for me 👍🏻
My buddy’s is a 750 and in the single digits .. I would like to go super sniper because I would like to switch back and forth to E85
very good information 👍🏾
I've always had problems with fuel boiling with dead head and tried everything to make it work. Moving lines, spacers whatever. Put in a return and it's all good. Using a holley blue pump too. Way less strain on the pump now too. Found a few forum posts on converting the 803 holley dead head reg into a bypass reg and haven't had any issues yet.
Chaplain Crabtree did adding a return quiet the pump down any? I’m dealing with a really loud Holley blue and thinking about running a return.
Thank you very much for the info.
Not sure about ur video...But it go me thinking too saying that I too am always wanting to learn. New subscriber & liked. Keep them coming
Yazmin
Venice Beach ⛱
Great info 👍
watched the whole lecture and learned a lot and it should help with my 1967 firebird issue
Thanks I just put a carbed 355 into an 89 TPI iroc-z. I left the tpi pump in the tank and I'm having trouble returning fuel fast enough.
I stayed to the end good vid
I'm battling a 30' motorhome with a 454 on a 1983 C30 chassis, with a bastardized fuel system. It needed a water separator to run on cheap gas, and a bigger pump to go up really steep hills. Then, they put in a puny return line that worked with the original puny pump. The answer appears to be to use a return regulator, followed by a dead head regulator to keep from over-pressuring the system when idling down really steep hills - when the return pressure will be maximum, yet the return fuel has to go UP through a smaller tube. No one seems to want to talk about fuel systems for looong vehicles having really BIG engines - and RV-factory plumbing. If the RV factories only hired a real genuine mechanical engineer, we wouldn't have these problems.
Your thoughts?
Steve
Thx for sharing!
You did good thanks for the tip
That was very helpful
Great news my friend it makes sense
I was looking at this video what motor were you running then, i just noticed it?
2 year old vid and I hope you figured out how to run the cooler with this set up on my sbc I use a similar cooler but not to cool the fuel before it goes back to the tank but before it goes into the carb so I am running a high pressure pump to the cooler and the from the cooler to the regulator which I have dialed in at 7.5psi and that way the carb is getting cooler fuel and so is the tank and works like a charm!
Not to nitpick, but on your chalkboard schematic you should show the fuel lines in the correct sides of the regulator.
You have them coming out of the top of the regulator.
This is true for so many parts. so similar but just different enough to fuck ya over. it gets REALLY tiring, especially with bad new parts and incorrect listings, etc..
heres a question for ya , I have a 78 chevy truck , Im thinking about pulling the float assembly out the tank and adapting an internal fuel pump.. It shouldnt be hard to do ... what I cant figure out is how electricity in gas doesnt explode... But have you heard of anyone adapting their old system over to what Im wanting to do....? Oh Subscribed
I had one of those. It has a tiny hole inside. So why do we run giant fuel hoses and force everything thru the tny whole ? Kinda defeats the purpose dontcha think.
I want to put a bigger cam and a water pump and distributor delete on my LT1. What setup is best for cam and crank signals. Thanks , I would appreciate your input.
i’ve got a 1986 chevy c10 and i’m trying to use the carburetor i have but as diagram c instead of diagram a like i have it right now. can you do a vid on how to convert a to c
If you take ⅜ hose and blow water through it... It's gonna flow the same regardless of its shape... unless it flows up, then gravity on the weight of the fluid could cause back pressure at a certain point..(thats irrelevant in this scenario) what im saying is i think either the inlet, outlet or I.D. of the coil in that cooler was restricting it all along. The delta p from fluid friction in that spiral isn't the issue. It's nearly immeasurable.
Exactly the diameter of the "curly" straw was half the diameter of the straight straw, so that demonstration showed absolutely nothing...
Im in need of help i just switched my 89 tbi to a carburetor and put a holley fuel pump to supposedly regulate the amount of psi of fuel to my carb by itself and i watch my clear view filter to see it just sucks a lil bit of fuel not enough pressure to keep flowing to my carb. Im pretty new to all of this some help would be awesome
I have one that’s says part number 362146 Holley not sure if it is a return one or not having a hard time figuring it out.
How is your pressure regulator being held up like that?
What size return line are you running, is it bigger than feed line?
I learned new things
Question: installed e elec fuel pump (internal regulated to 7psi or 90gph at 5psi) and later also a return line regulator. I know a regulator is not needed but it is how it is right now. I wonder if the reg will ever free the return line which this low number of pressure from the pump. What do you think?
Putting a one gallon fuel cell for my nitrous. Am debating if i need to put a reture system. Tank. The tank is in the front
Nice
I want to see the experiment with both the regulators in use do you put the dead head after the return style reg
Yes, you can set your return regulator at 15psi and put the cooler in the return line, plus put your head regulator in the out connection of your return regulator towards the carburetor and set it at 6psi… I think it will work just fine for the cooler and for the carburetor. Saludos!
Question , Ive been out of the mechanics scene for a long while, do you think a Holley electric fuel pump is good for the street ? longevity? Thanks
I use the Jegs Performance Pump that can also take alcohol. As long as it's on a return and It doesn't get too hot it should be fine. It has never failed me. "Knock on wood"
@@TPVPRO Thanks Bro
Hey man can you help me out with a fuel injected setup? Can't find any information and trying to learn where to put the regulator. MMR fuel rail kit came with an adapter for newer Mustangs regulator. So basically its return style, two fuel rails. Do I T the incoming fuel and hook directly to each rail, then link the rails with the regulator in between? Or do I put the regulator right on the inline hose, connect it one rail, then just hook the rails to each other from there?
It will be the same as the a carburetor. Ideally you want the fuel to flow through both rails then to the regular and back to the tank. All depends on your rails. The correct aftermarket rails should have the option to do hook it up that way.
@@TPVPRO So the fuel should reach all the injectors before going to the regulator?
I needed this because I never ran a return, but I'm confused by the last option. It comes from tank to pump to carb to regulator to tank? If you had to buy a fuel system from scratch would you go carb or FI?
Probably carburetor only because it's cheaper.
@@TPVPRO I'm going blow thru which is about the same as FI if that matters
@@infamousnova It is, I believe the pump that's was recommended to me was the "Aeromotive Eliminator " for E85. And the A1000 for gas applications.
@@TPVPRO only thing is finding a fi setup that except e85 and blow thru. I have a carb intake
@@TPVPRO A blow thru carb for e85 is about $1200. Still cheaper than the fi counterpart. It's only $1200 because I dont have a carb to convert. Wish I didn't sell it
Am sorry to say it old cars carburator and electrical fuel pumpe never and ever work together makes only headaches. Back to the old days sorry for that experiences talks🤣👍
I don't understand option C. How can you place the fuel regulator AFTER the carb if it's not regulating pressure to the carb? What's the point?
They make carb fuel line that has a inlet and a exit on both sides you just put a 90 bend and run it to the reg.
It is regulating pressure by restricting how much flow goes back to the tank
Can i block the return no return line
i have a bypass12-887 i have a vacumm port outlet on it do that line have to be hook up
If it's not boosted then just put a vac plug on it.
I just made that same mistake! Aahhhh.
The restriction in the straw theory doesn't hold water the inside diameter of the straws are not apples and apples your going to have restriction trying to push same volume of water through smaller orifice of spiral straw, has nothing to do with spirals. Your restriction in your system is more to do with inside diameter of smallest area internal more that any turns, and bends even though they may create a very small parasitic resistance, compared to smallest orifice cross section under same pressure. You can have one area cross section in the return side that's to small and your system is killed. I've used dead heads and return regs and they both work fine on carbed cars warmed fuel is better anyway it has to vaporizes, atomize for better combustion raw cold fuel is not all it's cracked up to be. It's just like many think highly polished intake runners is better after the carb is great for filling, but not for stirring fuel air mixture to get a great combustion flame front for power. I run super turbulent rough runners on mine to mix but flow increases with larger runners to get the best of both worlds. When you introduce fuel droplets because of fuel being cold it doesn't produce power with irratic combustion burn so you always have to watch control how far you take something. And complicated systems are always something you want to stay away from harder to troubleshoot, harder and more expensive to work on it can turn and bite you in the ass many times over. Don't know if you've ever heard the statement ( kiss ) keep it simple and stupid, and win.
Watched all
Fuel tank venting for next video
Why don't you put the cooler on the line feeding the carb? Don't you want the coolest fuel at the carb.
is you return line the same size as your fuel intake line? im setting one up now on a 454 6an (3/8 ) fuel line in , out and return
It only has to be sized to your pump. If you have a 150gph pump you'll need a -8, If you have a small or stock efi pump you could use a -6. It basically has to be able to flow as much or more than your pump.
on your 3 drawings "c"... why is your regulator after the carb on your return line? why even have a regulator on the back pressure line, shouldn't it be before the carb?
So it’s better to place return style regulator AFTER carb?
After the carb is the best.
TPV Productions so if I plumb it in that way, regulator after carb, plumb in a T before carb, put in a pressure gauge there it’ll read same pressure as the OUT port of regulator, seeing as you’ll be feeding carb before the IN of pressure regulator, and if so please explain.
@@piercer2 They have a carb fuel rail that has a exit on the back. And that would go to the reg. The fuel gauge would go in the same location as all the other Holley fuel rail setups.
TPV Productions I hear you, but will the fuel pressure to the carb being fed ahead of the regulator measure the same PSI as the fuel leaving the regulator?
@@piercer2 Leaving pressure after the reg is not needed only feeding pressure.
How long did it take you to chrome everything out she is beautiful
The return does 90% of its function when the car is at idle. Your fuel is flowing at its slowest at idle that would be the only time your fuel would have a chance to boil. If you put your regulator after it has already gone into the carburetor you aren't regulating anything. You are literally only regulating the flow going back to the tank
No. The system is a loop. If there's nothing restricting the flow back to the tank, the pressure will be very low, even though the volume might be very high. High volume isn't an issue. By putting the regulator in the line after the carburetor, it creates a restriction in the line leading to it. You want your gauge in front of the regulator (or on the regulator reading the pressure coming into it), and you adjust your regulator so that you have 5.5 lbs, or whatever you need, in the line between the pump and the regulator.
@@JeffKnoxAZ Dude! I was looking at that thinking the same thing but you explained it perfectly.
Thats right thats why from factory on FI cars the regulator is on rail after the injectors, not before hahaha. Great video
Follow instructions.
There called by pass regulater
🍪
holley reg is junk
😥