How to Properly Setup a Muscle Car Fuel System
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2020
- How to properly set up a fuel system for your muscle car with a carburetor or an EFI system. Both the same, just some variants to components. Get this right, and tuning on your carb or EFI is easy. Get it wrong and you’ll be fighting gremlins with no solution. Its not difficult, but getting this right will save you time, money and frustration. Tuning is EASY when you start with a good system. Here’s how to do it!
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I see you like the hands on approach.
This information is so powerful that it was mandatory that I subscribed to the channel!
ha! Thanks for that. I’m glad it’s useful info! Very much appreciate you watching.
Binge watching your channel and loving all of these info episodes. Great stuff Sir with LOADS of excellent information.
Appreciate that! If I could ever match your thoroughness and your video production, I’d be unstoppable! 😂
Building my 67 BB dart for the strip and I’m switching to a Holley red electric pump and -6 an line and this just made the install so much simpler for me. Thank you!!!
Very good technical support for a carb fuel system and e.f.i
Superb video, easy to comprehend, thanks for sharing your knowledge, helped me out immeasurably
Great job explaining, thank you
Fuel system so under looked thank you for making so easy to understand
For sure! Totally agree! Lots of problems can be solved with the right fuel system.
My gosh, man! Thank you so much for this video. I’m “running” a Weber carb on my ‘85 Nissan PU and at first thought this was going to apply only to the Muscles. Well explained to get me on my way. Thanks.
Nope! Works pretty universally no matter what you’re supporting - carburetor or efi. Doesn’t matter what flavor it’s going on!
Looks like i will be buying a pressure regulator sounds this will solve my flooding problem great 👍🏻 info
Has the potential to. Get a gauge to go with it. What kind of carb are you working on?
Thanks for the video. I've learned something new 👍👊
Fantastic video. Truly helpful. Thanks
Nice! Thank you and I’m glad it was useful for you!
Very good info! Thanks
My fuel pressure gauge reads 8 psi from mechanical pump to Edelbrock 1406. Installing a regulator STAT!
Good idea! Kinda crazy the variance in pumps. That’s why it’s always a good idea to run a regulator.
I wish I would’ve seen this video before I’ve been struggling for months trying to figure out why my stock quadrajet carb would always flood on my 79 camaro project I changed pretty much every thing I thought would be the culprit but I found out by myself quite recently that the mechanical fuel pump I bought for it a while ago was pushing way too much psi that carb could handle and I finally came to the realization that I needed a fuel pressure regulator and yesterday I bought a bypass fuel pressure regulator for it and hopefully that old girl would be ready for the streets again. And thank you for the clarification I got from this video.
It’s frustrating for sure. Seen it way too many times on a set pressure mechanical pump. Crazy results and for sure frustrating! Glad you got it sorted out!
I recently got a 1972 Roadrunner that has a Holley blue with no return line. It is super loud. I am learning a lot from your videos. Thanks for passing the knowledge on.
First of all, awesome car! The holley blue/red regulator have always been on the loud side. It’s a cheaper regulator and they’ll always be a little noisy. A return style regulator will help but it’s the internal components on a higher quality part that will quiet then down. It’s one of the reasons why I run the Aeromotive ones but they are must more expensive. Thanks for watching! Glad it’s been useful to you!
Hi Griff! I use the same Holley pump. Low pressure 14psi to regulator adjusted to 6- 61/2 for street rodding. 7psi for racing. If you change out the fuel regulator to a return line regulator back to the tank. No vapor lock, no flooding/cylinder wash, and a much quieter fuel pump, and much cooler fuel. I sure you know that but just in case sir.
Great video! Thank you! It made me check my system. I was experiencing a very gassy exhaust, which despite my best efforts could not solve. On my SBC, it turns out I have a Jegs mechanical fuel pump pushing out 5.7 to 9 PSI and an Edelbrock carb which is optimal at 5.5 PSI (with a max pressure of 6.5 PSI). Per your suggestion, I installed a pressure regulator and gage between the two week and made some adjustment. Immediately, I saw improvement. Very happy. Thanks again!
4.5-6 is your range. At 6.5 you’re really pushing what the needle and seats can handle. The regulator and gauge is your best friend. 👍
Thank you for all of the helpful advice on carb’d fuel systems! I’m currently running an Edelbrock AVS2 on my ‘87 Fox Body, with an in-line fuel pump and no regular, but I’m about to change that and go with the Aeromotive Deadhead style. 🦊
Regulator is one of the most over looked and one of the most important parts of a carbureted fuel systems. Good decision!
On the Mechanical fuel pump, exactly! I just experienced the same exact thing but mine was upwards of 8lbs. I wore out the threads in the float bowls so bad, I had to make my own brass helicoils for the needle and seat, or buy new bowls. I finally woke up and hooked up a gauge to it.
It’s pretty amazing how far off they can be. Like I’ve mentioned, making another adjustment point in a system that doesn’t have that many is a good thing. Crazy isn’t it?
Nice explanation buddy
Good tech! Never considered all these points you made about the fuel system. A lot of the problems you mentioned about analog systems makes sense in a digital world. Adding a gauge on the fuel system to give you data about what it's doing really makes sense. 40 some years ago I had a 67 Camaro that would "run out of gas at 115+. It was a daily driver and I didn't have time to tear into it, but I know now what I should have done. 1. Put on a pressure gauge and check the pressure from the fuel pump. 2. Check fuel filters for crud. P.S. I wish I could have thrown the mono leaf springs in the garbage. Every time I let out the clutch the springs would warp and the whole car would shudder violently. Thanks. Subscription added.
In close to 40 years of building a system to support what I’m working on, you kind of learn where you can make the best choices to avoid all the problems. All good!
very helpful information. thank you
Awesome. Glad you found it useful!
Excellent Video!
Glad it was useful for you!
Sir this is by far the best anything video I have ever seen . The way you analyzed each item and not dwelled on whether your opinion over one product or brand mattered more you focused so perfectly into what the viewer wanted. User wants a working car via components that match together with their inner workings no matter the brand. By simple test. As a technical instructor and developer of content your style of teaching is amazing.
Wow. That’s a heck of a compliment. Very humbled by it. Thanks for that! I am extremely biased on some products because I know they work. I try to deliver some theory without it and I know it peeks through at times and I try to mention when my bias is showing. Thanks again. Appreciate it!
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for replying. I have my dad original 72 nova 88k miles which was given to my son when he was 2. He's now 15 I kept the car in great condition but getting ready to restart using it since the last 3 year usage last year . When drove it daily and as soon as something went bad (wheel cyl,brakes, booster, master,cylc, then ps. Hoses) and so on. The car fouled up new plugs in 10 min of idle. With mostly everything top of line somewhat matched I looked into fuel as a problem. Took apart demon 650cfm carb gc type and eventually found factory metal still clinging to ports they drilled and ez idle screw was stripped. Total 6 threads off, so my basic factory settings were always 4 turns or so off contributing to excess fuel. Then I researched and eventually I found your video. I feel very educated in the matter in what my next purchase will be. And again the way you come across its like what I do with my crew but you do it better. Im a veteran and in the automation engineering field. Sometimes we have to make time to do what you did. There's a problem -its this and that- heres probable causes- items in system consist of this and that - depending on requirements then this then that would be ideal . ... its a type of structure of teaching that only experienced people who just want to help and have things run . That's how to decribe what you did. So thank you from Sunny San Diego ca.
Sounds like some frustration with the old x body but it sounds like you’re taking a methodical approach to finding the problems. Always frustrating when working on older cars that have sat for awhile but I enjoy the process of problem solving almost as much as I enjoy driving them! Again I’m very humbled by your commitment. I’m also extremely happy you’ve found it useful! Hope your continued upgrades to the Nova go well! Thanks much from unseasonably cold Memphis!
Excellent video man, you hit all the key points that people typically overlook. I personally love mechanical fuel pumps but I always use the 3 line versions that have a return or if I cant get that I will atleast use the 3 line Chrysler fuel filter so the fuel can bypass and limit the pressure. I personally hate electric fuel pumps with a passion because 99.999999% of "hot rods" retrofitted with electric pumps 11 times out of 10 will have a POS clickety clack or Holley red fuel pump mounted above fuel level with about 15 feet of cheap Chinese junk rubber fuel line with cheap worm gear hose clamps dangerously mounted and wired and usually have no return and the pump hot wired on a toggle switch or straight to the key with no oil pressure or tach safety in case of an accident. They do work and can be really good but take way more money,time and effort than most are willing to spend I like the mechanical pumps because they work and you really cant rig them and if the engine stalls,floods over or gets into a crash it will stop pumping fuel and is alot safer than a hot wired electric pump.
I don’t disagree with some of your statements. I don’t hate an inanimate object like an electric pump. I hate that more aren’t educated to do the right install. But safety is usually the last thing most think about.
Great vid. Thx a lot for great info!!
Awesome! I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thank you!
Great video
Thank you! Appreciate that.
Thank you so much for this video. I am one of those old farts that believed if you bought a mechanical pump designed for your vehicle you were good to go. For years I have been blaming the carbs for my fuel delivery problems. I stumbled across your video shopping for a pump that put out less than 6.5 psi. After watching your video I ordered my pump(not worrying about too much psi), 2 filters, pressure regulator and a gauge. Thanks again, Charlie
Yup. It’s always good to have more adjustment points than not enough. Regulator is one of the best things that most don’t take advantage of! Enjoy!
Good stuff. I'm about to re-do the fuel lines and mech pump on my 68 camaro with a 396. I will be taking some of the info to the bank
Thank you for great video I have a edelbrock 1407 manual choke I’m going to put fuel regulator on it because of a mechanical fuel pump where to put the fuel filter from tank to the engine I can put it in the line between tank and steel line which goes to engine I have one fuel filter before the carb Thank you
I've been subbed a long time but I keep rewatching your videos as I do more work on my Nova. I'm swapping my i6 250 with a l31 350 5.7 vortec motor out of a 99 Tahoe. I believe it doesn't allow for a mechanical pump unfortunately so I am trying to learn how to build a fuel system with a good external pump or a cheap tank+pump kit but haven't really found what I'm looking for. All your videos are a huge help. Thank you!
Thanks for watching! There’s a number of things to consider in this decision. Putting the pump in the tank is always the best option for the pump and the system. Today’s technology with those types of parts means as long as good fuel goes in, you’ll likely never touch it again. The flip side of that is the cost. You can convert a non-efi tank to efi for around $600 USD and that includes a new tank! I’ve linked the Aeromotive tank in a few videos. How to build a muscle car fuel system video for sure. Sounds like a lot of money, but when you get the benefits from it, it’s hard to pass up.
@@MuscleCarSolutions interesting. I'll have to check that out. I must have missed that. $600 is fairly steep but if you think it's worth it I may give it a second look.
I'm also having trouble figuring out how to hook up my 4 barrel elderbrock carb 1406 cfm to my car. Is there a throttle linkage kit? Or something I could buy to just hook it up? This is all for my 1970 chevy nova. Thank you so much
The original i6 250 have a little one barrel carb if that helps!
There’s lots of ways to hook up that carburetor. You can look at Lokar for some options. Or if you search through summit you might find something that’s in your price range.
Thank you!
You’re very welcome!
Are you sure you're not missing a zero or two on your subscriber count? :-) The info you present is well narrated and very easy for a dumb guy like me to understand. Can't thank you enough! Definitely a new subscriber here.
Very much appreciate that. Glad you found it useful.
And the kind of filters I had up front was a simple wiz type clear plastic small filter. The one in the rear right after tank was a small metal about the same size filter. Today I replaced that with a new little wix. Definitely did not have a big 100 micron filter anywhere
I think your best bet is to buy cheaper filters for now and keep changing them as you’re working on cleaning up that fuel system. They’ll only get trashed quickly and you might as well save as much money on it as you can while keeping as much garage out of the carburetor.
What an clean cut and easy to understand video. I recently bought a 68 Buick Skylark 350. It has low miles, and a Edelbrock 600 cfm carb on it. Its been sitting for about a year, so i pulled the carb, radiator, water pump, thermostat belts, and alternator off for replacement. I am now researching the fuel system, and was considering going to a electric inline pump, but I may just stick with the mechanical pump. I am curious if you have any videos on adding a return line off of a mechanical pump? Or if not how hard would something like that be? Also can the liquid in the gauge become hot causing a false reading, or is that a little pressure release on the top of that gauge? It seems like you only really need to check the gauge occasionally..
Thanks again for the video!!!
Run your own line. And check out the How to Add a Return Line to a Factory Fuel Tank video I did for an inexpensive way to do it. Run the return line off the regulator, not the pump. Also the fluid in the gauge would have to be awfully close to a heat source in which case you’d have more problems than wondering if the gauge were accurate! They operate just fine. Get a good quality one and you can depend on it’s accuracy. I prefer running electric on the tank but it’s got some upfront expense to it. Long term it’s a better solution than mechanical in my opinion. The phantom kit link in the description is what I use.
Great video and really easy to understand. My truck currently has the fuel running to a mechanical pump and then straight to the carb, I now know that that is causing my engine to run poorly and have a lot of hesitation. I will run a bypass regulator return system but how would you suggest I run the return line when you have two tanks? My truck is a 1977 k10 Chevy, there’s a switch to change between the left and right tank so I’m not sure how to plumb the return line. Thanks a lot. 🤘
That’s always difficult in this type of set up but folks usually have to decide what tank they want it to go to and operate as a “primary” tank I’d run a return style regulator. You can try a dead head style one to see if you can make it operate correctly and avoid that choice.
What a great video, thanks!! Had an issue with my car recently, quite annoying.. the pump started to fail, to the point where it can't pull..waiting for the new one, but wondering if it's possible or if it worth, adding a pressure gauge around the panel... for monitoring.. or, from your video, at least on the regulator for setting it properly. Thanks in advance
It’s always the right answer to add a regulator and a gauge.
Great informativt video. I am not sure if you mentioned this video, but what is the highest pressure feeding the carburetor? Preventiv it from flooding the carburetor.
Depends on the carburetor. Edelbrock’s operate best in a 4.5-6 psi range. Holleys can generally go a little higher up to 7.
Agreed. We should be finished with the build by the end of the week. We will see if the in tank pump will handle the demand. We plan on using the stock fuel return to the tank to help reduce the possibility of heat soak. Do you have any recommendations for fuel regulator with a gauge?
Regards
Greg
Like I’ve mentioned, I’m a bit of an Aeromotive homer. It’s been a heck of a brand that’s still made in the US right outside of Kansas City. Their product and service is top notch. I left links in the description to what I like to use.
Great video. Any risk running a second filter on the suction side before the pump on a 700HP NA motor? Also finding conflicting info on return line size, better to be the same, slightly smaller, larger?
No issue running a filter before the pump. Return lines get a little cloudy. If I do a car in -08, the feed and return are the same. Smallest I go is -08. That’s just me though. Call your favorite fuel system company and take their advice.
I'm faced with the decision to continue using my red Holley or take a blue one. I'm going to lay a return line because of vapor lock, I'll do that via a bypass regulator. The engine is a 320hp Edelbrock nothing big. Actually I don't need a reg for the red one I know. But I thought it was ok to do so. But I'm wondering whether the red one ultimately leaves enough pressure on the carb. Or just take the blue one (even if it's too big) but at least I can really regulate it something because it runs higher psi. I can probably only read the current status from the red one and hope that the system doesn't run far below 5psi.
good job helping me understand more about it! i have a 66 coronet and i bought and new sending unit and fuel pump but still no fuel is being sent to the carb .. what do you think it could be
Start from the tank and work your way forward. If no fuel is making it to the carb it shouldn’t take long to isolate the problem.
Good video. Would have been nice to cover line size and pump capacity for applications
Yup. Unfortunately it’s the balance to make a length video that’s easy to watch all the way though. It’s a topic I want to cover in the future. Thanks for watching! Much appreciated!
Hi there. I have a 77 dodge rv. With a 440 and edlebrock carb. Ran great when I bought it. Has since slowly started to sputter and run worse. Eventually it stopped running. I don’t run it far or drive much but I do let it idle and into town once in awhile. So I cleaned the carb and out a new fuel filter yo front before the carb. A few days after us when it stopped running. So I thought maybe the coil went bad. I installed a new one today and it started right up. But now all the sudden today I see the filter before carb is not filling g up with fuel. There some pressure and it’s running the pump I can here it. So I looked more into it and it has a electric fuel pump on the frame. I believe it has a switch type deal due to the two tanks But is only running g off the one tank at this point. So it is plumbed from tank ti filter. Which I replaced today with a new one then switch thing then pump then up to the filter then carb. I’m thinkbig maybe the pump is going bad. I don’t see a regulator
Any tips ? Thanks. Great video !
RVs or any dual tank vehicle add more to an equation when trying to figure out problems. I think I’d start with a regulator and gauge so you can monitor what the carb is seeing. It will also allow you to see what the pump is pushing to the regulator. The regulator is a good tool in the operation of the system and can help you diagnose as well. I’d keep changing filters for awhile. Drain the fuel from the tank and flush if you can. Another RV issue. More fuel storage more potential for problems. Not driving it much isn’t helping the problem right now.
Hey, great vid...what should be used besides teflon tape on the lines?
On what lines?
Can you run a bypass regular with the bypass port plugged off?
Great info here, thank you! Question: Can I run a return type regulator and just dead head it for now (basically install the return line later)?
No, absolutely not. That’s not how it’s designed.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Ok. Thanks!
Looks like I'm gonna have to try one of those inline electric fuel pumps on my 78 LTD. Fuel just seems to cook off once the weather is nice (carb runs better in the Winter! 🤣). Was getting full on vapor lock until I put an insulation spacer under my Edelbrock. Problem is 400M's get really hot and modern gas doesn't like the mechanical pump. Might just do that and route a new path of incoming fuel line that doesn't come into contact with the block.
A phenolic plastic or a wood laminate spacer under the carb will help as a heat block. You can also lower the fuel level in the carb. It’s flooding of the engine and lack of fuel in the carb that’s the issue. Ethanol fuel sucks. I don’t think an electric pump will help you much. Consider a return style regulator to send the fuel back to the tank. Keep it moving through the system instead of sitting on the hot engine.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I totally forgot to mention I'm running a dead head regulator at 5.5psi. ThunderHead289 had some fantastic material on carb tuning which I was following to the letter and overall runs much better now. Just if I'm running around on a warm day, it'll get a rough idle at a stop and if I shut it off to go grab a burger; I'll come back and have to give it a pump of gas to turn over. When it's still ice cold outside, I'll barely touch the key and it fires up. I was dead certain it was vaporizing because if I popped the hood to check it (when super toasty), I could see that the fuel filter was nearly empty.
@@SirEpifire that’s the ethanol in the fuel boiling. Ethanol boils at 180 degrees. Get the heat barrier fixed and if it cures it then you’re good if not get the fuel moving away from the heat source.
@@MuscleCarSolutions You mentioned a return style regulator. Do you think cycling fuel back to the tank would drop the heat by that much? Cause I think completely divorcing the fuel system from the block would solve the issue but I'd have to go electric to do it. Still wanting to retain the simplicity of mechanical but not at the cost of reliability. I'm rather curious now about replacing my vapor line (rusted out) and to try using that flow method first. In any case thanks for responding to all the comments! Folks like you are a real godsend.
Are you an orchestra mistro in your spare time? Maybe something for retirement! Lol. Thanks for the info on the different brands and your experience with fuel systems. Very helpful.
I’ve seen guys put inline electric fuel pump in series with their mechanical fuel pumps to prime carb fuel bowls. Not sure why they don’t just eliminate the mechanical pump. Perhaps like me they want to keep under the hood totally stock for show events. Any thoughts how to do this? My engine builder advised me to get 8-psi to my original Quadrajet since my factory mechanical pump is inefficient during dyno runs.
Dmack434 was dead on same here had to subscribe, so enlightened. I was blind now I see!!
Glad you found it useful! Welcome! I’d you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I do have questions. I have 72 c10 that I just put a fresh full roller 355 sbc with a little over 400 hp we think, I have an avs 2 carb. Question is do you know of a regulator kit you would recommend me, thanks!!!
@@sidewinder-nf9qm there are three options in the description. Expensive to cheap! Whatever fits your budget.
A friend of mine is having a fuel pressure problem. His regulator is a dead head. Regulating fuel pressure down to 7psi at idle. At higher RPMs, pressure drops to 6 psi. Would a return system help stabilize the pressure ? The pump is a 15 to 17 psi electric pump
Great video! I’m curious, why two fuel filters? Any thoughts on check valves to keep fuel in the line to cut down on startup crank time?
Two filters, two micron ratings to get the most debris out of the system without affecting flow. You can run a single filter if your maintenance is more frequent, but two is still optimal to keep the flow consistent.
I don’t run check valves. They don’t really save any time. If that’s a concern, just run an electric pump and let it prime the system if needed.
I'm looking to educate myself alil on this subject. I'm looking into buying a regulator but trying to figure what's best for my needs. I have a 71 f100 w/390 Eddy 750 carb & stock replacment cheap $18 mech fuel pump. I really have no fuel issues. Everything works well. But, I want to improve. So I'm looking for a adjustable, bypass, for a carb regulator. One day maybey a electric pump but not now. Also will a stock in cab behind the seat fuel tank couse any kind of problem? Return line will have to travel up hill for return line? Is such a regulator available? I've been searching but some of the details have been alil vague?
Excellet and very well explained video, I’m working on my fathers 1978 K-5 Blazer rolling on 44in Grown Hawgs and pushing a 454 BBChevy. Its fuel system consisted of an old rusty tank with a hose to the unreliable mechanical fuel pump and a little glass filter, I’m a fan of its transparency, straight to the carb. I’ve since replaced the gas tank with a new, installed an electric fuel pump (with filter behind it) and will be installing a pressure regulator and gauge right after the glass tube (with 10 micron element inside) fuel filter.
Now question, would it be a good idea to have a pressure gauge somewhere after the pump (which is installed close to the tank in chassis mount) placed in the engine bay before the second filter and pressure regulator? Maybe just a gauge before the regulator and one after to display the change in pressure. Please comment on this double gauge set up idea.
Also I’ll be purchasing a regulator with a return as opposed to a dead head, mainly cause I feel like a return would allow the excess psi not sent to the carb to be released forward (back to the tank) as opposed to the pressure reduction and back pressure on the electric fuel pump. Makes sense in my head logically. Great Video!!! Thanks again for this knowledge.
FYI I’m 26 and been doing minor work on the truck for a few years with my father. Just normal PM. Its been in the family for over 30years. Time to make her pur. Night! Thanks again! Excited for tomorrow!!!
Good luck with your build. Love that generation Blazer.
As far as running two gauges, I don’t see it as necessary unless it’s just for your own curiosity. The only concern is what pressure the carb is seeing.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Yes its a nice generation, I’ve also got a personal toy, a 1980 Chevy K30 (Original Single not Dually) with a manual sm465 4x4 on a 13in lift with 38s. I’ll surely use this nee fuel system knowledge when I get around to putting it back together (2yr+ frame-off resto-mod) This blazer is a 12in too with 44s. Our love of squarebodies run deep.
I’ll keep that in mind, I suppose your right about it being just for my own curiosity. If the pump is pushing 7.3psi and 4psi is past the regulator would it be safe to say 3.3 psi is whats being sent back to the tank? I suppose I’m just a curious george in this case. Thanks so much!
Don’t know what goes back to the tank. As long as the line size is capable of handing the pressure and the volume, I’ve never given it any more thought. Give the carb the pressure that best suits it and you’ll be in good shape!
Got a 87 slant 6 with return line built into gas tank comes off fuel filter before mechanical pump, going to install primer pump after fuel tank just to prime lines before start to help with starting since i dont run it often and hate dumping fuel into throat of carb to get it fired up initially, so if i install regulator before carb should i just be able to use dead head regulator since i already have return line, once i get my 6 warmed and running it just purrs away just hate all the cranking and spitting when starting cold, thanks for videos
More often than not most regret adding a pump to prime the system. It’s just added parts and a potential restriction in the system if it ever fails/loses power. Remove the mechanical pump and strictly go with the electric pump if that’s favorable to your situation.
what would happen if you plumb the bypass into the fuel line before the mechanical fuel pump?
Great education video. I have a 1989 Ford Class C Antique Motorhome that we are having a Ford 545 stroke motor built. We are not going with To use the stock EFI system instead we will use the Edelbrock Carb. The system has a stock Ford in tank fuel pump and a High pressure pump attached to the frame just behind the motor. Should we remove the HP pump and just rely on the n tank pump? Or would the Aeromotive regulator handle the pressure of the HP pump, And install a return line to the tank?
Thanks for your educational video.
Greg
Wow. That’s an odd combo! Big cubic inch stroker in a motor home? Sounds fun!
That’s a good question. There’s a reason why Ford did that. The added cost usually for sure indicates that a second pump is needed. The in tank might be more like a “lift” style pump. Enough pressure and volume to feed to higher pressure pump. I’m guessing it probably dropped pressure of just the in tank was used or failed to draw enough fuel without burning out the pump if the forward pump only was used. Going carb kills some of that as the high pressure isn’t needed. I’d keep the in tank pump, get a carb regulator to dial down the pressure if needed and see if it will flow enough to feee the carb.
Question is building such a big CI engine. Racing this monster? Or just wanted lots of cubic inches for the fun of it? That might dictate what you’ll need to do with the fuel system.
No racing here. Wife would throw a fit! No this stock motor had 220 hp and 350 # of torque. We pull a jeep and we have worn the stock motor out screaming her up the mountains. 135 k on the speedo and she’s tired. I like the linear torque line on this stroker kit. 550 HP / 600 # torq coupled with C6 and Gear Vendor.
So you think I can plumb a bypass regulator off the HP fuel pump and meter it down to 4.5 5 psi. Sure would keep the system simple. Wiring etc
Greg
@@greganderson6543 it’s very possible. I’d for sure be willing to test it first with that set up and go from there. Start with the pump in the tank first and see how it feeds. Either way let me know how it works out. Curious to know what the solution ended up being.
I have 2 questions. I have a 1980 Z28 /350 small block.
I want to put the filters and regulator on like you mentioned in the diagram. I did not see a video on best placement for these parts. Should I mount to the wheel well?
I have a Edelbrock manifold and carburetor.
I’m having hesitation when I get on it and sometimes even stalls or backfires. Will the regulator help to cure this problem?
Could you possibly make a video of where your preferred placement for the parts actually installed on a vehicle with a mechanical fuel pump regulator and filters
It’s a good question but I’m not sure how to approach that. I just gout done looking at a 1969 Cougar and it would get a much different placement than my GMC truck or my 67 Chevelle. I think it more boils down to the application and what area is available to use. I’ve mounted them to the wheel well countless numbers of times. It’s a great option if it’s available to you. Hesitation and backfiring could be a number of things. Timing is where I would start. Make sure you’re advanced enough and if you are it’s not creating a lean backfire. You can try moving the accelerator pump arm closest to the pivot point to get a bigger shot of fuel to see if it cures it. If it gets better, then keep tuning to add more fuel!
Amazing channel, great content and your a wealth of information. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the world it will help me with my project truck.
I have a 77 GMC Sierra K15 that has dual fuel tank's.. I should use two 100 micron fuel filters underneath. One on per side LH and RH correct?
Thanks! On your truck, I guess it would depend on how the system is set up. Are you running two separate pumps or just one? If it’s just one pump with a pickup from each tank running to it, you could do either way. If you put the filter after the pump, you might have to service it more often. Just a guess. I know those older dual tank trucks tend to have a lot of garbage that gets in and settles as one tank usually gets all the service and the second one is just a backup. Guess that also just depends on how you’re driving it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions It just has the one mechanical fuel pump. I know what you're saying about two tanks and one getting sediment build up. I'm in Canada and just picked up this 77 Sierra from Arizona. It's 98% complete, 98% rust free, and needs a little work. It came with 5.7L TBI out of a 87 Suburban that I'm converting to a carburetor set up.
Picked up a Weiand Street Warrior dual plane intake, Holley 4150 Truck Avenger carburetor, Holley performance fuel pump, try-y headers by Doug and Hooker 2.25" true dual exhaust run through aero chamber mufflers. I plan on dropping and inspecting the tanks before putting any fuel through them.
What you shared in this video and the information you have provided in your other videos makes it hard not to become a subscriber.
Thanks for the response, my build just got better thanks to you
@@thewoodsman5261 wow. That’s very kind of you to say. Thank you! Sounds like you’ve got a heck of a truck! The vehicles out of the southwest are usually in excellent condition. You’ve got a good plan to work with. Don’t hesitate to ask any questions. I’d be happy to help if I can.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Much appreciated, I just gotta wait for this snow to melt and the nice weather to arrive to start wrenching. Maybe another 3-4 weeks
@@thewoodsman5261 hope you get that nice weather soon!
Love your videos! Recently had my 327 rebuilt with 461 heads. Pulls 6 PSI beautifully, AVS2. I'm sure the filter is 100 microns, if that's the standard. I don't really want to run a return line back to the tank. Any suggestions regarding secondary inline fuel filter and regulator, thank you!
You’re probably ok to run a deadhead style regulator. Just follow the diagram and verify what micron filter you already have and that way you can make the right decision on what your secondary filter should be.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I wanted to get back to you in this and the plan I have. I just want to go with a 3/8 sending unit and a 1/4 inch return. That way I can establish a regulator and work towards a vapor lock solution. 100 microns from the tank and 10 at the regulator sound right ?
@@jjones7831 1/4” return is way too small. The micron filters will work just fine.
What if your stock setup already has a return line? Would the bypass regulator be a simple plug and play?
I’ve got a stock Pontiac 400 2 barrel that has that stumble as the engine warms up.
If I plumb a deadhead style regulator into the return line itself, does it effectively function as a bypass regulator? Or do they just operate in a completely different way?
In my situation I’d like to plumb the regulator into a return line, just curious which style regulator best fits that bill.
Use a return style regulator.
Question for you...after watching many videos on this topic, I see that some prefer to put the regulator AFTER the fuel log or carb. They say, this way the carb will always get everything it needs but the regulator will bypass anything it doesn't need. Your thoughts on this? I am just about to start my system and the only thing I don't have yet, is a fuel log. So, I'm deciding what style/brand to get based in where I put the regulator.
On an EFI system yes, the regulator goes after the fuel rails. On a carbureted system I always prefer regulator before the carb. But 90% of what I do is street applications under 750hp.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I liked hearing the arguments going both ways but I do feel going before the carb is a simpler and cleaner setup. Obviously a little less complicated less fittings, less hoses etc. I am building a street application right around 500 horsepower so I'm sure that that setup is going to be the easiest way to go and will be completely sufficient for what I need. Thank you I appreciate your input!
I have a question on fuel line size.
I’ve got a 1966 Fairlane with a 460 built about 550hp. I’m going to run a return line set up with a regulator. I’m currently running a mechanical pump on the engine, and a pusher pump back at the tank. It works fine now and was going to keep it this way. What is for fuel line size I am upgrading to half-inch but can I run half inch up to the rear pusher pump, or should I run half inch all the way up to the mechanical pump? Then from the mechanical pump to the carburetor I was going to run 3/8 inch. Would this be OK?
3/8 might be a stretch. My concern would be a pump on the return side. I think I know your reasoning, but it’s going to kill the pump sooner than later. The amount going back to the table is restricted, and pumps typically don’t like a suction condition.
Subscribed! For a mild 383 build with say a 650 CFM carb, which Aeromotive deadhead regulator would you recommend and what size fuel line? I’ll be going with a mechanical fuel pump.
How much power are you looking to make? Any upgrades in the future that would change that HP number?
@@MuscleCarSolutions not looking to upgrade in the future with this build. SBC 383 build for just cruising on the weekend.
Comp Cam kit K12-423-8
Scat Rotating Ass. 1-90450
Edelbrock AVS2 650cfm
Still trying to figure out what heads to use
@@ck1insac at that rpm the stock ones will be just fine. If you just want to have a set of aluminum heads, there are cheaper options than the AFR. You won’t see any gain from using them in your situation.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you for your honest opinion. So much bad info out there that seems to be just overkill! If you have any personal recommendations on heads you liked working with, I’m all ears. I do have some budget and plenty of time.
@@ck1insac it’s all about how the engine breathes and where it needs more runner volume. The AFR heads are very good, but if you’re only pushing that engine to 5500 max, you won’t get the full benefit to that runner size. Edelbrock makes a nice casting in their E-Street head. There are likely even cheaper alternatives in Speedmaster. And of course if you wanted to stick with a stock head, you’ll be just fine with those as well. That comp cam might be a little on the big size. It’s a truck and you’ll want the grunt to be down low in the rpm range. Make it that fun torquey driver you’ll have fun with cruising around town with. That cam would match up well with those AFR heads if you stay that route.
I had a mechanical pump that put out 9psi. Switched to a electric pump set it at 4.5psi flooding issue GONE.
Had a couple of old dudes on FB give me grief for running a pressure regulator in my daily driver GM Holden car. Got the old "I've been playing with cars for 40 years and I know from experience that they are a waste of money" treatment and no amount of explaining would convince them otherwise because I'm the young dude. What would you say to them in this regard? I run a 6 cyl, slightly modified engine. You know, carb, headers, bolt on performance and just a freshly rebuilt engine. Would a pressure regulator be worth it to you in that regard?
I’ve heard that from a few old timers as well. It’s more a reflection of their ignorance than anything else. It’s another adjustment point in a system that doesn’t have many. It’s a guarantee of what pressure the carb sees. It’s a way to keep very inconsistent mechanical pumps honest. It allows you to dial back the pressure during the tuning process. All of those positives are well worth the little amount of money spent. If they see that as a negative, all you can do is laugh at it and move on. Not worth the effort trying to educate them.
Do you use a return style with a mechanical pump?
I typically don’t but it’s not a bad idea to add one.
Im running a vortec block with vortec heads, Edelbrock Carb, on a '66 C10. Will do Performance upgrades on engine later on, but mostly stock at the moment. Im about to Relocate Tank from cab to under bed, and want to redo fuel system while I'm at it. Its a dead head system right now, will still be running external fuel pump. What is the plumbing order? Ive heard reg before and after carb, and most info on plumbing holley carb so I'm a bit confused. Which reg would you suggest? Pump? Id like to run electronic fuel pressure gauge into cab of truck as well, not sure if that affects which Regulator, or which gauge would be good? Also did I hear you say you're in Memphis in one of your videos? Me too!
Run it the same way it’s in the video. Regulator between the pump and the carb. I’ve got links in most of the Edelbrock videos I’ve done. If you watch the Ultimate Tuning Guide video I did I explain the fuel system set up in great detail. Check it out!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks man! Your videos are a huge help
Glad to hear that! I have quite a few in the Edelbrock carb series. If you have any questions I’m always glad to help.
For simplicity sake, I'd like to run just a mechanical fuel pump for my 383 stroker with the filters and regulator you suggest. Some people are advising to also run an electric "pass through" back up to assist in priming the carb or for driving up steep grades (like my unusually steep driveway). You think that's overkill? Would a solid mechanical fuel pump handle business more times than not on a street build?
I have nothing against mechanical pumps. Electric though is my choice for quite a number of reasons. Same ones that the OEs followed when they decided to go in tank with theirs. In an off road situation or in the case of a really steep incline like your driveway, my guess is the pickup point would be more critical than the type of pump.
@@MuscleCarSolutions If I were to run an electric pump, with a return line, would a Holley Red be overkill? Many people saying a mechanical is sufficient but many also say and electric with return line helps with cold starts, vapor lock, and I can see it helping my steep driveway concern. I have an aftermarket LMC tank with just a standard pick up on it.
I always avoid the cheap electric pumps. If you want long term, reliable delivery, look into an in tank option. The Aeromotive Phantom is my go to kit. I have it in all my personal builds. Return back to the tank is the best option. There are PWM pumps out there but they are a little temperamental on hot starts and in warmer weather.
Are you using the same line to connect to your tank /filter/ carb too.
I’m not sure what you’re asking. Are you asking if you can use the factory fuel line from the tank to the carburetor? Yes and no would be the answer. Need more details.
Hi do u have any videos on carb spacers? Thanks
In what context?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I have duel plane intake EPS. I hear 4 hole is best it's stock so would open style make a difference?
So here’s my issue on my 72 C10 SBC. I replaced my Carter mechanical fuel pump with a Delphi mechanical, added a Holley 12-803 Bypass regulator but blocked off the second port, added a fuel pressure gauge right before the carb and fuel filter before that and after the regulator. I also cleaned and rebuilt the edelbrock carb. Not getting fuel to the carb anymore and I can’t figure out what’s going on! Added air to the tank and I’m getting fuel to the mechanical pump but I just can’t get any good amount of fuel Into my filter site. I even tried eliminating the pressure regulator. No luck. Any ideas?
Difficult to say. There is a specific in and out port on the regulator. Hook it up wrong and you have the situation you describe. If you’ve eliminated that, you’ve got filters to consider. Though it would take a lot of garbage to clog one. Completely plausible though. With the fuel line disconnected from the output side of the pump and crank the engine, are you getting a good amount of fuel?
Does this change any for a twin carb setup?
Not much. If it’s just a dual quad for looks, no. It will be mostly the same.
What would happen if I have an in tank pump and a 100 micron filter after it
Not enough filter. Run a single 40 or 10 micron. Change the element a little more frequently.
My question for you is. You see and hear a lot of talk about return to tank after the carburetor. Is this something you worry about or is having a return regulator and deadheading into the carburetor all you do
Depends on the application. Do I deadhead a lower HP, street driven application. Typically, really depends on what I want to use it for.
What credentials do you have?
I always put my bypass regulator after the carburetor....is that what you do too or do you still run it before the carburetor?
Either way is acceptable. Really depends on the application and regulator type. Most street applications I’ll run it before. When I (finally) get the Chevelle back on the road, it will be after the carb on a fuel log but I also run -8 on that car.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah! It always made more sense to me to run it after all the needle and seats or injectors. Thanks for the reply 🍻
I read on some online forum that you can damage a pressure regulator by feeding it with a mechanical fuel pump. Is there any truth to this?
Zero truth to that. Been using those set ups for 30+ years. Never an issue.
How long does it usually take before you see fuel returning to the tank? I have less only a couple gallon of fuel in the tank drove around the block 2 time pressure is at 5.5 6. I put a glass filter before the fuel return into the tank to see the magic no magic yet
Not sure I’m following. In a return style regulator the fuel will push to the carb if needed but route back to where ever you have it going fairly easily. Are you saying the glass filter isn’t filling up with fuel?
@@MuscleCarSolutions right! I figure the gas should return to the tank pretty much instantly right but dry as a bone. But I have a low tank and only drove for less the five min
@@TheDmgmonster yup. Get some fuel in the system. If the pump is working, the filter will fill up. Right now if it can’t get a solid stream of fuel out of the tank, there’s nothing to be returned!
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks my guy! I did what I said I would with that overflow line on the top passanger side of the 72c10 ill tell you how it goes
What dictates when to use a mechanical vs electric pump setup with a carbureted application? Is it personal preference up to a certain point? I'm running a mild big block weekend street car and cant decide which route to take as far as my fuel delivery
It’s personal preference on the lower horsepower stuff. As long as the mechanical can keep up with the volume and pressure, it’s just fine. But like everything else that has evolved and gotten better, stronger, more reliable, dependable. Fuel pumps follow right along with that. For me, anything I can put an electric pump in the tank, I will. Regardless of the power range. It’s just the updated, better way to go.
@@MuscleCarSolutionshey thanks, you've earned my subscription. And for simplicity sake I'd really like to use a mechanical pump. My engine combo is roughly 600 horsepower at the crank and it's just a street toy. I have a 130gph mechanical pump I was going to run with -8 line from the rear sump to reg. I just dont want to plumb my whole system to find out I should have went electric to begin with
@@grannysgarage8101 are you using a fuel cell or the factory tank? Honestly at that power, I would run an electric. My preference but at that power level I think you’ll get a more consistent delivery and with the right unit, a return line in the hanger that’s always a good idea. Plus taking the pump off the engine frees up the pump riding on the cam (depending and what you’re working on).
@@MuscleCarSolutions fuel cell in the trunk. rev limiter set to 6000, running a holley 850 double pumper. Orginally when I put the car together years ago I was running a Holley blue pump with 3/8 lines deadheaded into a 1050 dominator. Actually worked surprisingly well but I never pushed it knowing it wouldn't keep up. This season the plan is to re-plumb a proper fuel system from scratch
@@grannysgarage8101 that’s a good reason to not want another electric pump! Those old red and blue pumps have outlived their usefulness. I use pump in tank stuff and you still could with a cell. Just an option. For sure sounds like you’re needing a new system.
So I have a question. I’ve bought a crate engine from blueprint that uses a mechanical fuel pump. And due to warranty reasons, I’d like to use it.
(Car is an 87 IROC-Z)
Long story short, is it possible to use the TPI fuel tank and plumb it to the fuel pump? And if so what in the world do I need???
Does the TPI tank have a pump?
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes. It’s fuel Injected
@@Country_Tyler I’d keep it. Use a regulator that’s designed to drop efi pressure down to carb pressure and not use the mechanical pump at all.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I’ll email blueprint right now and see if that will void warranty or not
I've read that a carburetor should have a 40 micron filter between the pump and the carb vs EFI calling for 10 micron. You only mentioned 10 micron. Any reason for that? Thanks
10 or 40 for the second filter. Either one is acceptable on a carbureted application.
@MuscleCarSolutions I am working on figuring out my fuel system have been watching your videos for help. I currently have a smallblock mopar 360 with aluminum heads bigger cam aluminum intake some aftermarket pistons and a stock crankshaft. I'd predict it makes between 400-450 horsepower. I have a mechanical fuel pump and retrofitted in a stock 1969 mustang tank in the rear. The tank doesn't have a return. Is that something you would recommend I do? Or could I get away with a deadhead style regulator for my application? It's going to be more a street truck maybe take it to the track once or twice to see what it runs.
@@TANNAMN I run deadhead style regulators on engines with that kind of power all the time. If that’s what you choose, it will work out just fine. If you want to run a return line, you can do that too. I have a video on how to add a return line to a factory tank. Easy.
@MuscleCarSolutions I did watch that video but was concerned about placement. Was reading that it can cause issues if it's not away from the pickup and near the bottom of the tank. The mustang tank that I'm using the sending unit is towards the front bottom so I'm not sure where I'd add the return bung to avoid it
Is there any reason why one wouldn't put the pressure regulator near the fuel tank rather than under the hood?
Edit: with a high pressure in-tank pump
In an efi system, the regulator goes after the fuel rails, before the final route back to the tank. It’s the prissier seen at the injectors that’s most important. Same with a carbureted application. The regulator is the last thing in the fuel system right before the carburetor. You’re looking to regulate the pressure at the moment before it gets to the needle and seat. Putting the regulator at the tank would kill all the pressure needed at the point where it’s needed the most.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Awesome, thank you so much.
Don't the liquid filled gauges change with rising ambient (engine heat) temperature? Thereby giving a false reading.
Only the cheap ones.
Is there a spec for a carburetor that will give you what the max pressure is?
How would someone know the proper pressure for their classic car set up?
Thanks.
For an aftermarket carburetor or a factory one?
@@MuscleCarSolutions For an an aftermarket carb . Thank you
@@brigond1 well, just follow what they recommend. If it’s an Edelbrock they like a 4.5-6 psi range. Holleys you can generally push a little higher to 7 psi. Yet another reason why a regulator is so important to have and use as a tuning tool.
@@MuscleCarSolutions
Like you said, it's a way if ruling out, say, an over pressure or under pressure issue. As well as extra tuning option.
I guess something like that will have you searching in circles.
That explains it . Thank you!!
@@brigond1 it can! As you get your carb more dialed in, you can always come back to pressure to see if less is better. Always adjust timing to see if you can get better idle, low range, top end. The closer you get to what the carb wants, the easier it gets!
Great video, thanks! I have a 72 nova with a 350, mechanical pump. I want to add a bypass regulator and run a line back to the tank. Can I use one of the existing ports on the tank (for long gone fuel vapor recovery system) for the fuel return? I was going to block these ports off anyway and use a vented gas cap instead of trying to find all the emissions stuff. Thanks again!
It’s a possibility. Your concern would be where the fuel goes once it gets there. The evap systems are usually fairly restrictive on the inside and I’m not sure it’s the easy return for it to the fuel in the tank. Might take you a few tries and some major fuel spills to clean up to find the right solution. Or just put your own return line in the tank. I have a video on that as well.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Awesome. Thanks for the reply. I’ll do a little research to find out if anyone has made this work on this model, but ultimately may end up going with making my own as you suggested. I saw the video you made about it and it was extremely helpful. Thanks again, and I look forward to watching more of your videos. Keep up the good work!
@@scottcripps5333 always good to look and see if maybe it’s an easy solution for you. That’s how we all learn stuff! Best of luck on it. Let me know if you find a port that works?
If you come across 650 avs2 to get red of let me know
I hope you got the “barley pop” gift!?!
Hey! I got it this morning! THANK YOU! Send me an email to verify your address and I’ll send ya something back!
👍👍
where are you? I need some help with my fuel system in an 88 ford motorhome.
What are your questions? I’ll see if I can help.
Why a mechanical fuel on the engine won’t prime. It’s a new holly pump for 289
Why a new mechanical fuel pump won’t prime . The holly pump is on the engine. Worked till I changed it
So start from the beginning. Disconnect the pump from the carb. Put the hose end into a container to catch any fuel and crank. If you’re getting no fuel then the pump is bad or you have a clog preventing fuel from getting to the pump. I’m assuming you changed the fuel filters when you changed the pump. If not, time to change them.
Great info! FYI - you need to stop blocking the video with your hand.. try a pointer stick
My address is in the About tab. I look forward to receiving the one you want me to use. 👊 Thanks in advance!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Just use an old antennae
@@USIRON78 I don’t have one. Send me one. A good one. Not some bent up piece of junk! 😆😂😆😂😆😂
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok I will ! ; ^)
👍👍😂😂
Shew I’m with ya on this but have ya seen the prices on this stuff, the average man cant go this, you’d have $600 in regulator, An filters.
Thru Itall there are cheaper options. I only included what I personally use. You can get the cheap off shore stuff and be in at half that or less.
Muscle Car Solutions yeah I’ve been trying to find em I can’t even find the 10 micron an 100 micron filters automotive stores look at ya like, do what lol
Thru Itall yup. Amazon search or Summit is your friend here. Can find some cheaper alternatives with each.
Tell China
… How do do you say a lot and say nothing. Disapointing video
Are you going to be ok?