Good vid man, I appreciate what you do and how you do it and I’m sure there are a lot of guys who don’t know or understand the steps and patience that proper engine building and maintenance requires. I’m glad to know there are guys out here in the world taking the time to pass on their skills to those who thirst for knowledge, good on you.👍
Hi Brad, I love your videos, you really are an excellent technician! One thing, you always work with an open crankcase and I would personally worry about dropping something in the case, requiring a complete case-split tear-down to retrieve it! Anyway, that's how you do it, although I believe the day will come when you will make a mistake, drop something in an open-case , and have to tear the motor apart to retrieve it; to be sure, that will be a bad-day. Thanks again, Greg
I like your attention to detail, to a lot of techs/mechanics time is money and they try to get the job done as fast as possible so they can move on to the next job. Which is why it's been said, if you find a good tech, stick with him/her and not just the particular shop.
Thats a real fact! I'm a flate rate mechanic and its deffentally true, you gotta get the job done, but you might as well put some pride in on the job. Thanks for the comment and view!
Hi there, great Video byw. Can you help me please? I have a 2016 sportster. After a rebuild the head bolts are leaking oil! The oil is only on the small bolt exhaust side of each head , the oil apears after 30miles. I have change the studs for new S&S studs with red loctite, all new OEM head bolts, tree times new cometic mls gaskets, change the oil and oil filter, check the cylinder vents ok. When i was removing the studs i see some threads with a litle oil. What you think to do next to solve my problem? The bike is runing smooth but the oil dont desapear. Thanks for your help
Hey Brad just bought the stud kit and my old set the one on the bike has washers up top with the nuts on the fueling kit didn't come with washers you think I should get some or are you supposed to run the fueling kit with out
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard its a 14 street glide with an s&s 124 kit on it pulling heads and jugs soon (have leaky head gaskets) going to so valve seals all top end gaskets and inspect bore and rings. My head bolts were all crusty figured I'd do new head bolts and studs while it's apart seems like it should have washers to prevent any sort of rotational force on the jug but fueling said just the lube under the shoulder 🤔 sure it will be fine was just wondering bc I couldn't find the vid where you put the heads back on this bike
Bro you have to cover those holes. And wrap those rods one small ding on the case from them and you'll never get that jug to seat. Also heat the steal rods not the aluminum case ,direct heat on aluminum will cause the aluminum to become soft and weak . Otherwise everything else was great keep up the good work... Just my thoughts
That would probably work. But heating the aluminum is doing two things at once, heating to break the loctight and expanding the aluminum to loosen the threads grip on the studs.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard I love your thorough work. However you scare the crap out of me working with the lower case open. I would drop a wrist pin clip in the lower case for sure! You are a true ninja!
Here is a link to the instructions to the installation of these feuling studs. www.feulingparts.com/instruction.info.php?instruction=3000.pdf Thanks for the question.
I have been told that the Harley studs are torque to yield and have a one time use. The Feuling/ARP are not torque to yield studs and can be used over an over again with no worries.
All OEM twin cam and milwaukee 8 cylinder studs are reusable and don't need to be replaced during engine service. Only the cylinder head nuts on milwaukee 8 engines are "one time use". But ya, if you upgrade to the feuling then you reuse the studs and nuts also and I'm sure there better material l.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard Well that makes me feel better because back in 2006 after 10,571 miles on my new 2005 I had to rebuild the upper end. The dealer in Taylor, MI would not do it as a warranty claim. So I did it. Turned it into a 95" and reused the cylinder studs.
I cringed the whole time you were chasing the threads and cleaning them out with compressed air. You would have had to uncover the crankcase opening to apply heat, but the rest of the time you should have had rags inserted to keep dirt and foreign matter out of the lower end.
I understand your concern. And cleanliness is defiantly important. Its probably difficult to tell in the vid but my hands are situated in such a way as to not let any foreign material enter the crankcase and while blowing out the threads the lint free towel is directing the airborne material away from the crankcase. Ive seen many mechanics stuff towels ect in the cylinder holes but to be honest with you, Ive only seen that contribute to contamination. Its super easy to see lint or dirt on the oil film of the flywheels and in situations where people put rags in the cases I see a ton of lint and dirt. Where as using this method I see no addition material on the oil film. It seams like every cloth has some amount of lint, even these blue shop towels and micro fibers have some. I am always learning and trying to find ways to do things better. if you have a recommendation on lint free towels, let me know and I'll look into them. Also when not working on the bike the engine is covered in a plastic bag. I like the plastic bags we use because they have a little static cling to them and I feel like that helps if stuff is in the air. Thanks for the view and comment! Also on a completely separate side note. I do find myself enjoying a good cringe worthy video. I saw one last night. check it out. th-cam.com/video/O-u57YsVvwQ/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Installing Harley 131 and a stud came loose. I could not locate stud instillation in manual. Brad to the rescue. Thank you sir.
Your welcome.
Great video Brad, good to see you back in front of the camera.
Well done. Thanks for the fast forwards, limited talking, great tips. I'm starting mine tomorrow after buying the torch.
Good vid man, I appreciate what you do and how you do it and I’m sure there are a lot of guys who don’t know or understand the steps and patience that proper engine building and maintenance requires. I’m glad to know there are guys out here in the world taking the time to pass on their skills to those who thirst for knowledge, good on you.👍
Thanks, I'm trying to put quality energy and information and out there. Thanks for the complement and the view!
Hi Brad, I love your videos, you really are an excellent technician! One thing, you always work with an open crankcase and I would personally worry about dropping something in the case, requiring a complete case-split tear-down to retrieve it! Anyway, that's how you do it, although I believe the day will come when you will make a mistake, drop something in an open-case , and have to tear the motor apart to retrieve it; to be sure, that will be a bad-day. Thanks again, Greg
Where have you been, lately? I haven't seen any of your excellent videos recently, Brad.
Ive been staying busy at the shop. I'll get more videos coming out in the up coming months (it's our slow season coming up)
I like your attention to detail, to a lot of techs/mechanics time is money and they try to get the job done as fast as possible so they can move on to the next job. Which is why it's been said, if you find a good tech, stick with him/her and not just the particular shop.
Thats a real fact! I'm a flate rate mechanic and its deffentally true, you gotta get the job done, but you might as well put some pride in on the job. Thanks for the comment and view!
Great knowledge and attention to detail. If I ever need work done on my TC, I know who to call. You’re just a bit south of me.
Really good stuff...your a good teacher!
I appreciate that!
Another pro procedure, thank you.
Thanks for the complement and the view!
Hi there, great Video byw.
Can you help me please?
I have a 2016 sportster.
After a rebuild the head bolts are leaking oil!
The oil is only on the small bolt exhaust side of each head , the oil apears after 30miles.
I have change the studs for new S&S studs with red loctite, all new OEM head bolts, tree times new cometic mls gaskets, change the oil and oil filter, check the cylinder vents ok.
When i was removing the studs i see some threads with a litle oil.
What you think to do next to solve my problem?
The bike is runing smooth but the oil dont desapear.
Thanks for your help
Thanks for the video!
Hey Brad just bought the stud kit and my old set the one on the bike has washers up top with the nuts on the fueling kit didn't come with washers you think I should get some or are you supposed to run the fueling kit with out
Is it the cylinder studs you baught from fueling?
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard yea no washers
Normally the head bolt has the washer integrated into it and no seperate washer is used. What year and what kind of bike are you working on?
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard its a 14 street glide with an s&s 124 kit on it pulling heads and jugs soon (have leaky head gaskets) going to so valve seals all top end gaskets and inspect bore and rings. My head bolts were all crusty figured I'd do new head bolts and studs while it's apart seems like it should have washers to prevent any sort of rotational force on the jug but fueling said just the lube under the shoulder 🤔 sure it will be fine was just wondering bc I couldn't find the vid where you put the heads back on this bike
Ya the washers must be a s&s stud thing. I did a set of fueling studs today and no washers, like stock.
Bro you have to cover those holes. And wrap those rods one small ding on the case from them and you'll never get that jug to seat. Also heat the steal rods not the aluminum case ,direct heat on aluminum will cause the aluminum to become soft and weak . Otherwise everything else was great keep up the good work... Just my thoughts
Awesome video! Would an electric heat gun work or would it not get warm as fast?
I used one on my tappet cuffs this winter, to get the bolts loose.
Aluminum wickes the heat away so fast I doubt a heat gun could put heat in fast enough to do the job. Maybe tho. I haven't tried it.
I like your work, where are you located?
On my evoihad to tap deeper because stud pulled out an woodnot go back in they not tidown again but do now😊
So just out of curiosity, why not just heat the lower part of the stud shaft? Is there not enough heat transfer?
That would probably work. But heating the aluminum is doing two things at once, heating to break the loctight and expanding the aluminum to loosen the threads grip on the studs.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard I love your thorough work. However you scare the crap out of me working with the lower case open. I would drop a wrist pin clip in the lower case for sure! You are a true ninja!
Thanks for the comment!!
made by ARP ?
Yes they are.
how many pounds does it suggest you torque the studs ?
Here is a link to the instructions to the installation of these feuling studs. www.feulingparts.com/instruction.info.php?instruction=3000.pdf Thanks for the question.
I have been told that the Harley studs are torque to yield and have a one time use. The Feuling/ARP are not torque to yield studs and can be used over an over again with no worries.
All OEM twin cam and milwaukee 8 cylinder studs are reusable and don't need to be replaced during engine service. Only the cylinder head nuts on milwaukee 8 engines are "one time use". But ya, if you upgrade to the feuling then you reuse the studs and nuts also and I'm sure there better material l.
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard Well that makes me feel better because back in 2006 after 10,571 miles on my new 2005 I had to rebuild the upper end. The dealer in Taylor, MI would not do it as a warranty claim. So I did it. Turned it into a 95" and reused the cylinder studs.
Sumping issue on m8s, please make a video over that the next time
I will keep that in mind. Good idea.
4
😎😎😎
Iimade longer studs
Loctite 545???? that thread sealant. Its meant for pipe threads. its not high temp or strength. 300f is its max temp
I cringed the whole time you were chasing the threads and cleaning them out with compressed air. You would have had to uncover the crankcase opening to apply heat, but the rest of the time you should have had rags inserted to keep dirt and foreign matter out of the lower end.
I understand your concern. And cleanliness is defiantly important. Its probably difficult to tell in the vid but my hands are situated in such a way as to not let any foreign material enter the crankcase and while blowing out the threads the lint free towel is directing the airborne material away from the crankcase. Ive seen many mechanics stuff towels ect in the cylinder holes but to be honest with you, Ive only seen that contribute to contamination. Its super easy to see lint or dirt on the oil film of the flywheels and in situations where people put rags in the cases I see a ton of lint and dirt. Where as using this method I see no addition material on the oil film. It seams like every cloth has some amount of lint, even these blue shop towels and micro fibers have some. I am always learning and trying to find ways to do things better. if you have a recommendation on lint free towels, let me know and I'll look into them. Also when not working on the bike the engine is covered in a plastic bag. I like the plastic bags we use because they have a little static cling to them and I feel like that helps if stuff is in the air. Thanks for the view and comment! Also on a completely separate side note. I do find myself enjoying a good cringe worthy video. I saw one last night. check it out. th-cam.com/video/O-u57YsVvwQ/w-d-xo.html
@@HarleyDavidsonWizard I'm not even sure what there doing and it made me cringe. Thx for sharing.