Another excellent video. You make me want to stuff 35's on my Tahoe. I totally agree with Powerstop brakes. It's better than anything else I tried so far. Even ordered rear set to go with the front brakes. Great to see Pinto back, she seems to have recovered nicely. Merry Christmas !!!
Finally someone explaining WHY you don't want to over crank your torsion bars. Hitting the droop stop is the majority of why people have a harsh ride after torsion bar adjustments.
In the 3 in kit I got it instructed to remove them..... I didn't at first and couldn't keep an alignment...... Cut them off lil over a year ago before new tires and did much better
Oh man, excellent video, thanks. I wish I had watched it one week ago! I just got new torsion keys for my crappy old 1993 project Suburban. One of the old keys was stuck in there with surface rust...took me about two days of beating on it and nearly a whole can of PB Blaster to coax it out. I am sure my neighbors were getting pissed off from all the noise. Supposed to be a 3" lift but the upper control arms were sitting almost right on the stops, just like you mentioned, so I dialed it back to about 2.5 inches or so. I thought the ride would be awful after installing the keys, but it's actually pretty nice. Just a little firmer than stock. Now to install the rear blocks...and find tires I can stuff under there. (It's currently riding on very embarrassing 245 street tires from Ling Long, ha ha ha...such quality tires)
Mahalo for this Christmas gift. Watching you and Pinto working together again is such a treat! Mele Kalikimaka and Hau'oli Makahiki Hou from all your friends here in Hawai'I!
I used king 2.0 x 6" coilovers. With freedom offroad tubular upper control arms. They aren't direct bolt on though. You'll have to ditch the factory upper shock mount as it they were never intended to support the weight of the vehicle. So I fabricated a shock hoop for the top and welded new tabs on the lower control arm for the bottom. Also i ditched the front differential and cv axles after breaking diffs and cv's all the time. So that gave more room for the coilover. But if you were to get an extended lower rod end for the shock you could still have enough room for the axle to sneak by. Similar to what you would see on an aftermarket coilover for a newer Toyota or chevy.
Great video! Love the OBS content. When I was young and poor, I swapped my K1500 master cylinder and front calipers for K2500 parts. I used stock 1500 rotors with them. Massive brake upgrade on the cheap! Add in those Z36 pads and things probably get even better!
Your vehicles wheel wells always look so clean. I just can't believe oil doesn't attract dust, dirt and junk. I want to try it but I'm hesitant. Always love your videos, keep them coming. Have a Merry Christmas!
I live in New England, and do similar to my '13 4Runner. My 4Runner doesn't look nearly as nice as Jason's vehicles, but it really does help. I do it to add corrosion resistance, not so much for looks, and I find that it attracting a layer of dust actually helps. The dust and penetrating oil form a film over the metal that protects it from water and corrosion.
It actually works good. In new england MA Maine Vermont New Hampshire prob upstate NY ppl coat frames with oil to help with the salt in winter months. The salt from the roads and the Atlantic can really destroy these older frames. Its cool lil trick that really works as strange as it sounds
I replaced the rear springs and added a leaf to my Tahoe to get a stiffer spring for towing and to control wheel hop. I still get a lot of wheel hop though without bars. I'm not sold on Powerstop brakes. My truck stops fine, I just hate the ABS system.
My truck doesn’t make enough power to wheel hop. I’ve had to count on the abs a couple times and thankful it did its job well. Thez36 pads are amazing.
@@AutoEdits Thanks! Great channel for subscription as I start my build (99 Sub). If you are looking for a solid roof rack, check out Baseline Overland.
A 4" lift would require a substantial change to the front differential mount and that gets more expensive. I was hoping to avoid that until I really felt like the vehicle needed that. At this point it does great with this lower stance. Rocker protection and maybe some skids would be a great addition!
Just watched @1road video on his rough country lift on his suburban… You guys should do a vid together on what you like vs dislike on your lifts. I’m mirroring my two door build on what you’ve been doing so thanks for the help!
I saw most of his recent video and realized he learned this bit of suspension dynamics from my video 😂 He seems like a great dude and I would love to team up at some point... we just live across the country from each other!
I have a 2005 Tahoe, bought new with 6 miles on her. 18 years later, and 250k+ miles, I still love her so much! I need to do all these things to mine. But I cannot do them myself. Are your services up for hire? I can drop her off and you can make more videos about her!
I definitely agree with the statement about bilstein 5100’s they are good for high speed and compression valving is good, definitely lacked on the rebound stroke, definitely a little too fast for crawling, and always felt like there was too much sway.
Great info! I like watching GMT 400 and 800 content, but I don't think I've seen anyone explain this as well as you. Also, I said this before and I'll say it again, I cannot believe how clean your vehicle is! My 2013 4Runner is 18 years newer than your Tahoe, and yet I'm thinking I should probably get rid of it soon before the corrosion gets too bad. We can't have anything nice in New England.
@@AutoEdits happy new year! Just curious, if you were to choose between the GMT400 and 800, which would you choose? I like the OBS styling, but REALLY like the LS engines in the 800s.
@@AutoEdits thanks for the quick reply! I have some friends out your way in Del Mar, maybe a 2022 goal should be to fly out there and drive home in a 800 :)
Happy holidays to you and family Jason and Pinto too! Great explanation on everything as usual sir. Take care and I'm looking forward to your next video.
Good morning, thanks for doing this build and going over the details. As a small channel myself I always appreciate the comments and wanted to reach out and say thanks. Did have a question on the rear. Where did you get the rear blocks and u bolts from? Maybe I missed it.
Great video and a sensible approach to lift vs. functionality that not everyone thinks about. Do you think it's better to go with lift blocks for the rear or add-a leafs (if staying in the 1-2in lift range)?
Thanks for the comment! I think the best way to get lift in the rear is to add a leaf or getting the proper springs so if that is a viable option... go that direction for sure. Especially if you have an application with any real horsepower. This truck had 190 HP new and axle wrap is not really a big concern... blocks are the absolute worst for power vs. traction scenarios. I just went the "lazy" way and slapped the blocks in 'till I figure out what I want to do with this thing long term. Drives phenomenal for the time being and the few wheeling trips have been very good.
Hoping to get a response on a older video, I’m also doing a 2-3 inch budget lift on my 99 tahoe. I know about needing a little longer sway bar links for the rear, but what about front?
@@AutoEdits awesome thank you so much! I will be ordering the same shocks, and some lift blocks for the rear, I clear 33s on my Tahoe currently but need/want a little more clearance. My torsion keys are stock and not turned up much so still have a little bit to go up while still retaining travel. Can’t wait to get the same shocks you have!
Great videos! Finally someone that explains things in great detail. I have a 1991 chevy Silverado k1500 z71 regular cab. Would the brake kit you used on this Tahoe work on my Silverado?
curious to know how many inches of lift you are able to get in the front with stock keys without causing the downtravel issues you mentioned. looking to upgrade my 99 Suburban a bit, but nothing too crazy. this rig basically just sees fire roads on camping trips here in New Mexico. im building a 1970 bronco as my crawler. loving the OBS content! i would love to see more "drive your adventures" type videos with it!
Agreed with his comment. 2” is the max you want. Anything more an you feel that bump all the time. I have mine set at 1.5 because my rear springs are worn giving it a 2.5 squat. Add-a-leafs goin in for the towing capacity and lift vs blocks.
That would be fine but make sure you check your brake line to make sure it is long enough for the added suspension droop. I installed a longer steel braded line on this truck from skyjacker... Here's a link to my Amazon shopping list of things used in this build and the brake lines are in there. www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
I bought a 99 lifted Tahoe with a 4" in the rear about a year ago, it need replacement tires so I replace to 285/75/16 which is roughly 33s. The problem im having is it is extremely rough to drive, any small dent in the road throws me around. I wasnt sure about the front end, im the torsion keys were cranked all the way, but it looks like there is a aftermarket bump stop change, I have now upper control arm bump stop, only 2 lower control arm bump stops one stopping the upper side of the lower and one stopping the lower of the lower (this might be confusing). At this point I dont think I can lower the vehicle with out getting a new kind that changes those bump stops to the original. Im not sure what I should do, I also want to get new shocks and replace my front bushing but cant make a decision until I figure out what I do with the lift.
There's a lot going on in that comment and I'm not sure what advice to give... the best option might be to order a kit from a well know company like skyjacker and start over???
@@AutoEdits yea, I think that's the plan, I'll probably get a 3 in lift that way I know what is on it and can get some shocks to match. Essential what is different about my lift and others is on the front the upper control arm bump stop has been removed, and there is 2 bump stops on the lower control arm, so I would have to find a lift that replaces the part that those bump stops go to. Your video was insanely help fun, and I hope to take my rig over landing eventually.
Seems about normal... those aren't high performance but stock replacement units. I would like a better upper control arm to dial in more positive caster but can't find one.
Great guidance and great looking OBS Tahoe! I appreciate your insight if possible- i’m working on widening the rear track of my 99 Tahoe 4wd with the factory 16’s but have run into a lug nut size challenge. i have the 7/8 size, 3/4” length lugs on the truck now but can’t find a thin wall socket that size that will fit in the spacer or a 13/16 size lug short enough to fit behind the factory wheels. i’m trying to keep the factory wheels-Any tips?
Got a two door I am planning on doing the business too. Just needs an engine and front diff rebuild plus the height adjustment. Like what you have done with yours.
Great video! I have a 1999 K1500 Suburban that I want to add a couple inches to, and just want to confirm that I should just add blocks in the back and adjust the stock torsion keys? Any other mods that would be needed? Thanks!
Great video.. out of topic. I'm in san fernando valley and I'm having issues with 03 qx4 4x4 it has a delay of shifting. I've already done transmission fluid change via pan drop. Changed the transmission filter but it still has that delay.. any help would be greatly appreciated.
I got a truck question. So I get a 2016 ram 1500 2 wheel 5.7 with a 2 piece drive shaft and the center bearing support. I just saw your vid where you upgraded your drive shaft from a 2 to 1 piece, and I was wondering if I can upgrade my drive shaft to a one piece from the 2 piece?
Absolutely! I just called Tom Wood's driveshaft and they gave me the measurements they needed and was able to order the parts you saw in the video... 4 years and almost 30,000 miles and still going great.
Merry Christmas Jason I have a question about the grizzly locker- how does it perform on the street noise wise and would you recommend it for a daily driven pickup that only sees off road on occasion?
I think it is totally bearable as a daily and accept the clicking in parking lots. If it’s just for occasional use, I would recommend the Duragrip ! Tons of traction and super mild to live with.
Oh and have you ever considered switching to the 14sf? I have a 93 K1500 and worry about the 10bolt even with upgrading it. My buddies at work are trying to get me going with my truck for their once a year Death Valley trip in December
Yes, it's 4:56 front and rear. For what I do with the truck at this point... the 10 bolt with hardened axle shafts is fine. I put a grizzly locker in the rear and wish I had gone with the Yukon limited slip. Here's a trip with this rig in death valley th-cam.com/video/SLxA9hlW9y8/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoEdits ok cool beans. I think you mentioned something about the electronic locker but that’s a pretty penny and probably way overkill. Thanks man! I appreciate your videos and information!
Merry Christmas Jason. FYI, another issue with aftermarket torsion keys is that they are typically cast, oem are forged. Forged are much stronger and cast often fail when used agressively.
Awesome brother! I always see guys putting in a new frnt. diff. bracket and having to cut on it etc...even with just a 2" lift...I've got a '96 Tahoe and am planning to follow your lead as I like your style....save where you can and spend where appropriate...although I'm thinking 33"'s. I really appreciate your vids! Peace.
I take my stage 2 and 3 rags to the car wash and wash them to get a few more rounds out of them because those shop rags have became an item I don’t buy as much as I use to at even the dollar stores etc because the price is getting higher.
Just about everything I used is in this list www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS?tag=onamzjasonlew-20&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d Superlift is the brand.
I have a 1999 Tahoe, and I want it 2-3 inches, but I want it to be close to level, your truck looks kinda raked ( back higher than the front ) but I want to lift it, but the front needs to come up, I want to fit like 275s-285s 32-32.8 inch tire. I’m looking at the torch lift kit, it’s a 2-3 inch front and 2 inch blocks in the back, how would I not max out the down travel on the front?
Do the shocks you mention come with the 2 inch added length for the lift? Or is it that i dont need longer shocks? Could i use my oems for now so im not spending all the && at once
@@AutoEdits thank you got your prompt reply. will be doing this on a 99 suburban k1500. For the tires, i think ill go to 265/75/16 or even 285/75/16. 35s look great but i don’t think ill be doing all that you do. Currently in search for the stock wheels and redoing rear brakes completely
OK so I'm blond . I recently bought a 02 Tahoe with a lift with absolutely 0 knowledge of part replacement for the thing I believe that I have a bearing going out on pass side there is some clunking some rattling starting to kinda wondering in the steering when suspended I got play side to side and top and bottom so I'm thinking tie rod ends and ball joint but how in the world do I replace them if I go with the standard are they going to hold up to the rest of the cusome lift maybe I need a mechanic idk I've always been able to diagnose buy and replace any of these things in the past by ordering the standard but this is completely new to me and you seem to know or be knowledgeable of the lift this so I decided to inquire about problem feel free to message me or not either way thanks for the video
A lot of the parts I used on this build are in this shopping list for you to reference and hopefully help a bit www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d The 02 is my favorite body style of these!
Rule of thumb on these is the bump stop keeps the CVs from binding. I have 2” keys with RC arms and bilstien 5100s on the front and full droop binds the CV axles. So diff drop is needed with just 2-3” of lift if you want correct crv angles and proper UCA alignment angles.
Great information. Between the redhead steering box and the kryptonite components, which of the two do you feel made the biggest improvement to your trucks steering wheel play?
Great question! The steering box in this thing was leaking very bad and could've been adjusted to firm it up so the replacement of the ball joints and steering linkages probably had the greatest impact on the steering feel improvements. The new steering box was mostly due to the fact it costs almost as much to rebuild one as to get a new (rebuilt) unit.
Hey Jason I got a question for you. My brother has a 1997 GMC Suburban (basically same as your Tahoe) and his is an electronic 4x4 and when the tires are all off the ground the 4x4 works when engaged but when it is on the ground and you push the 4x4 button it sounds like something is binding or locking up. The tires start chirping or skipping and the whole car starts jerking as if something was holding the back and preventing it from going. Any ideas what the issue could be?
Had that happen on my 99. The actuator motor was bad on it. I replaced the switch inside because they a famous for goin bad but still had the issue. New actuator screwed in and it’s all good. Takes about 30 minutes to do one handed. The lights on he switch should stay solid also. If they blinking or off, it’s shot.
@@jasonb4738 - So an update, I replaced the actuator motor and I can select the 4hi and the vehicle actually moves without binding up and I can hear it actuating but the light on the switch won’t stay solid it just keeps blinking. So I even replaced the 4x4 selector switch and it still doesn’t stay steady it just blinks. Any ideas?
@@alexlubbe needs to be reset. You should be able to unplug the negative on the battery for an hour and it will clear out. That the easiest way. But. You can pull the dash panel back off and find the control box. It has 2 wires that can be unplugged. Start it up and test the 4wd in and out. Then plug the wires up and test again. Should be ok. If not pull the battery. It’s easier to reset the radio than takin all that lose to fix it. 🤷♂️
Just about everything is in this amazon list, I just checked and the front and rear brake lines are in there: www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
Another excellent video. You make me want to stuff 35's on my Tahoe. I totally agree with Powerstop brakes. It's better than anything else I tried so far. Even ordered rear set to go with the front brakes. Great to see Pinto back, she seems to have recovered nicely. Merry Christmas !!!
Howdy! Yes, I've been really happy with the brakes and I'm so glad Pinto is doing pretty good as well! Merry Christmas to you too!
Finally someone explaining WHY you don't want to over crank your torsion bars. Hitting the droop stop is the majority of why people have a harsh ride after torsion bar adjustments.
Yep!
But u could buy upper control arms for 2-4” lifts
In the 3 in kit I got it instructed to remove them..... I didn't at first and couldn't keep an alignment...... Cut them off lil over a year ago before new tires and did much better
I learned that a while back so I ordered 3" keys and 4" upper arms we'll see how it goes
this guy is the most informative k1500 owner ive ever seen. Hell Yeah!
Hey thanks!
Oh man, excellent video, thanks. I wish I had watched it one week ago! I just got new torsion keys for my crappy old 1993 project Suburban. One of the old keys was stuck in there with surface rust...took me about two days of beating on it and nearly a whole can of PB Blaster to coax it out. I am sure my neighbors were getting pissed off from all the noise. Supposed to be a 3" lift but the upper control arms were sitting almost right on the stops, just like you mentioned, so I dialed it back to about 2.5 inches or so. I thought the ride would be awful after installing the keys, but it's actually pretty nice. Just a little firmer than stock. Now to install the rear blocks...and find tires I can stuff under there. (It's currently riding on very embarrassing 245 street tires from Ling Long, ha ha ha...such quality tires)
Glad you stuck it out and got yours back on the road!
Taking nothing away from the excellent informative content, so glad to see Pinto up and around doing so well after her surgery. Rock on old girl 😜
Love this… thanks for appreciating Pinto!
I'm also in the LA area traffic, it's amazing the stoping power of those front brakes on my Tahoe. You should start a Tahoe overland group.
Hmmm.... interesting...
Mahalo for this Christmas gift. Watching you and Pinto working together again is such a treat! Mele Kalikimaka and Hau'oli Makahiki Hou from all your friends here in Hawai'I!
LOVE THIS! Thank you and merry Christmas from us!
Just picked up a 98 Tahoe 4x4 I'm so excited to start this project it runs n drives
Congrats!
I got rid of my torsion bars all together on my 95 yukon. I put coilovers on and man what a huge difference on and off road.
What kit did you use? I'm very curious!
I used king 2.0 x 6" coilovers. With freedom offroad tubular upper control arms. They aren't direct bolt on though. You'll have to ditch the factory upper shock mount as it they were never intended to support the weight of the vehicle. So I fabricated a shock hoop for the top and welded new tabs on the lower control arm for the bottom. Also i ditched the front differential and cv axles after breaking diffs and cv's all the time. So that gave more room for the coilover. But if you were to get an extended lower rod end for the shock you could still have enough room for the axle to sneak by. Similar to what you would see on an aftermarket coilover for a newer Toyota or chevy.
My Yukon is more of a prerunner now rather than a 4x4
Gotcha! Sounds fun!
Gonna be a good day when AutoEdit uploads a new video.
Cheers
Yeah buddy!!!
Great video! Love the OBS content.
When I was young and poor, I swapped my K1500 master cylinder and front calipers for K2500 parts. I used stock 1500 rotors with them. Massive brake upgrade on the cheap! Add in those Z36 pads and things probably get even better!
Great thinking!
I thought they were the same, great idea
you have inspired me to start looking for an OBS to get my own project going
Your vehicles wheel wells always look so clean. I just can't believe oil doesn't attract dust, dirt and junk. I want to try it but I'm hesitant.
Always love your videos, keep them coming. Have a Merry Christmas!
If you have some wd40 or something like it... do a test! It works great for me.
I can attest it works great as a protective coating. Easy to clean. I use it on my truck and motorcycles.
I live in New England, and do similar to my '13 4Runner. My 4Runner doesn't look nearly as nice as Jason's vehicles, but it really does help. I do it to add corrosion resistance, not so much for looks, and I find that it attracting a layer of dust actually helps. The dust and penetrating oil form a film over the metal that protects it from water and corrosion.
It actually works good. In new england MA Maine Vermont New Hampshire prob upstate NY ppl coat frames with oil to help with the salt in winter months. The salt from the roads and the Atlantic can really destroy these older frames. Its cool lil trick that really works as strange as it sounds
Great explanation of the torsion keys. Keep up the great work.
Thanks so much, will do!
I replaced the rear springs and added a leaf to my Tahoe to get a stiffer spring for towing and to control wheel hop. I still get a lot of wheel hop though without bars. I'm not sold on Powerstop brakes. My truck stops fine, I just hate the ABS system.
My truck doesn’t make enough power to wheel hop. I’ve had to count on the abs a couple times and thankful it did its job well. Thez36 pads are amazing.
Self teaching by watching cool videos like this! Thank you 😊
Awesome to hear... thank you for the comment!
Turning up tortiom keys will extend stock shocks. Giving it a rougher ride. At minimum get the shock extenders
no way, this truck rides perfect as is.
Glad to see Pinto is doing well. I think she is the best co-host.
Thank you... I agree!!!
Good looking truck man, this is exactly the look i am going for! I have the 2000 k1500 z71 limited edition model.
Besides the build, happy to see Pinto the dog back on another video! ¡¡Feliz Navidad!! 🎄 🎅
Same to you! Thanks!
Need to find out what bumper you are running. Need one for mine!
th-cam.com/video/Cr27tRCPzBo/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoEdits Thanks! Great channel for subscription as I start my build (99 Sub). If you are looking for a solid roof rack, check out Baseline Overland.
@@antischematicphiloso Hey thanks for the recommendation!!!
@@AutoEdits No problem. I bought one for my build. See ya on the trails!
Great tips, how about a 4" lift next with smart and affordable parts as this 2" set up.
A 4" lift would require a substantial change to the front differential mount and that gets more expensive. I was hoping to avoid that until I really felt like the vehicle needed that. At this point it does great with this lower stance. Rocker protection and maybe some skids would be a great addition!
good to see pinto out and about, Merry Christmas Jason
Thanks, I'm glad to have my helper out there with me again! Merry Christmas!
Just watched @1road video on his rough country lift on his suburban… You guys should do a vid together on what you like vs dislike on your lifts. I’m mirroring my two door build on what you’ve been doing so thanks for the help!
I saw most of his recent video and realized he learned this bit of suspension dynamics from my video 😂 He seems like a great dude and I would love to team up at some point... we just live across the country from each other!
Professor Jason! I learn so much from your videos. Thank you! Go Pinto!!!
LOL! Glad to hear it! Thanks so much and scratches for Pinto!
Nothing like getting home from a long day at work and finding a fresh autoedits .
Thanks so much... happy christmas!
Love seeing the Tahoe. What a cool truck to build
It has proven to be a great rig so far.
I have a 2005 Tahoe, bought new with 6 miles on her. 18 years later, and 250k+ miles, I still love her so much! I need to do all these things to mine. But I cannot do them myself. Are your services up for hire? I can drop her off and you can make more videos about her!
I'm not good enough to take on another project but I'm glad to hear you still love your original Tahoe!!!
this is really useful, it answers the question can I fit 285's 75, 16s to my Yukon.
👍
Good to see Pinto again!
Thank you for appreciating her!!!
Do a 4th Gen LS V8 swap on that rig to bring it to life. Also, the 6L80 transmission has a much lower first gear and extra tall highway gears.
I like how you think!
I definitely agree with the statement about bilstein 5100’s they are good for high speed and compression valving is good, definitely lacked on the rebound stroke, definitely a little too fast for crawling, and always felt like there was too much sway.
YEP!
Great info! I like watching GMT 400 and 800 content, but I don't think I've seen anyone explain this as well as you.
Also, I said this before and I'll say it again, I cannot believe how clean your vehicle is! My 2013 4Runner is 18 years newer than your Tahoe, and yet I'm thinking I should probably get rid of it soon before the corrosion gets too bad. We can't have anything nice in New England.
Thanks so much! and yes... I totally appreciate the luck of finding pristine west coast vehicles!
@@AutoEdits happy new year! Just curious, if you were to choose between the GMT400 and 800, which would you choose? I like the OBS styling, but REALLY like the LS engines in the 800s.
@@trailrunnah8886 OH YEAH... that's an easy one... 800 for sure if I had the choice for exactly what you said!
@@AutoEdits thanks for the quick reply! I have some friends out your way in Del Mar, maybe a 2022 goal should be to fly out there and drive home in a 800 :)
Awesome video, thanks for the info on Kryptonite products! Please tell me about the front bumper...WOW!!
Here you go th-cam.com/video/Cr27tRCPzBo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your videos. I’ll definitely buy from your store. I have a 95 k1500 so I’m sure a lot of these parts work for my truck as well.
Happy holidays to you and family Jason and Pinto too! Great explanation on everything as usual sir. Take care and I'm looking forward to your next video.
Same to you!
Good morning, thanks for doing this build and going over the details. As a small channel myself I always appreciate the comments and wanted to reach out and say thanks.
Did have a question on the rear. Where did you get the rear blocks and u bolts from? Maybe I missed it.
Most of the stuff I used on the Tahoe is here for reference www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS
Great video and a sensible approach to lift vs. functionality that not everyone thinks about.
Do you think it's better to go with lift blocks for the rear or add-a leafs (if staying in the 1-2in lift range)?
Thanks for the comment! I think the best way to get lift in the rear is to add a leaf or getting the proper springs so if that is a viable option... go that direction for sure. Especially if you have an application with any real horsepower. This truck had 190 HP new and axle wrap is not really a big concern... blocks are the absolute worst for power vs. traction scenarios. I just went the "lazy" way and slapped the blocks in 'till I figure out what I want to do with this thing long term. Drives phenomenal for the time being and the few wheeling trips have been very good.
@@AutoEdits that's what I thought, my 1500 is bone stock and is just too soft in the back, even w/o any load in it!
Any add-a-leaf kit you recommend?
I don't have much experience with leafs so I would call the dudes at Off-road Designs for advice.
I want to go hunting. I don't think a front axel is needed. A 2 inch lift and 35s is awesome watching your video.
Hoping to get a response on a older video, I’m also doing a 2-3 inch budget lift on my 99 tahoe. I know about needing a little longer sway bar links for the rear, but what about front?
The front is fine with the stock length since the travel is limited by the control arms.
@@AutoEdits awesome thank you so much! I will be ordering the same shocks, and some lift blocks for the rear, I clear 33s on my Tahoe currently but need/want a little more clearance. My torsion keys are stock and not turned up much so still have a little bit to go up while still retaining travel. Can’t wait to get the same shocks you have!
Great videos! Finally someone that explains things in great detail. I have a 1991 chevy Silverado k1500 z71 regular cab. Would the brake kit you used on this Tahoe work on my Silverado?
Thanks! I'm not sure if this exact kit will fit yours but a quick compatibility check on the web will confirm. I highly recommend the Z36 pads.
curious to know how many inches of lift you are able to get in the front with stock keys without causing the downtravel issues you mentioned. looking to upgrade my 99 Suburban a bit, but nothing too crazy. this rig basically just sees fire roads on camping trips here in New Mexico. im building a 1970 bronco as my crawler. loving the OBS content! i would love to see more "drive your adventures" type videos with it!
I recommend only going 2" in the front and the stock keys are more than capable of that.
Agreed with his comment. 2” is the max you want. Anything more an you feel that bump all the time. I have mine set at 1.5 because my rear springs are worn giving it a 2.5 squat. Add-a-leafs goin in for the towing capacity and lift vs blocks.
I hope you paint that thing soon. Will make it look awesome.
Can't figure that one out yet!
You can change out the brake booster for a newer year from like a Silverado 0-3-06
Is there a reason for that swap?
@@AutoEdits it give it better braking power
@@AutoEdits wouldn’t have to press down as hard to brake just have better reaction
@@APBANKZ35 Ah ok... this setup doesn't need that at all but I appreciate the tip for those that might need a little boost.
@@AutoEdits no problem
Very helpful and well done video!
Thanks a bunch!
Good review of what you’ve done. And hello, Pinto!
Hey, thanks!
Would you recommend adding shock extensions if if going for a 3 in lift, I will mostly like get the same shocks you have
That would be fine but make sure you check your brake line to make sure it is long enough for the added suspension droop. I installed a longer steel braded line on this truck from skyjacker... Here's a link to my Amazon shopping list of things used in this build and the brake lines are in there. www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
Love your videos. Question. Are the shocks for OEM height? I don't find those Belltech for lifted K1500 they just offer lowering or OEM height.
They are for stock height and work great in this application.
I bought a 99 lifted Tahoe with a 4" in the rear about a year ago, it need replacement tires so I replace to 285/75/16 which is roughly 33s. The problem im having is it is extremely rough to drive, any small dent in the road throws me around. I wasnt sure about the front end, im the torsion keys were cranked all the way, but it looks like there is a aftermarket bump stop change, I have now upper control arm bump stop, only 2 lower control arm bump stops one stopping the upper side of the lower and one stopping the lower of the lower (this might be confusing). At this point I dont think I can lower the vehicle with out getting a new kind that changes those bump stops to the original. Im not sure what I should do, I also want to get new shocks and replace my front bushing but cant make a decision until I figure out what I do with the lift.
There's a lot going on in that comment and I'm not sure what advice to give... the best option might be to order a kit from a well know company like skyjacker and start over???
@@AutoEdits yea, I think that's the plan, I'll probably get a 3 in lift that way I know what is on it and can get some shocks to match. Essential what is different about my lift and others is on the front the upper control arm bump stop has been removed, and there is 2 bump stops on the lower control arm, so I would have to find a lift that replaces the part that those bump stops go to. Your video was insanely help fun, and I hope to take my rig over landing eventually.
Really good info, thanks
Merry Christmas 🎄
Same to you!
We’re did u buy the lower control arms ? I have a 99 tahoe 4x4 and I can’t find the lower control arms anywhere any help plz and thank u
I couldn't find lower arms so I just put new bushings in my old ones and sprayed a little paint on them.
Did you do a diff drop bracket in the front?, and on the belltech shocks, are they the OE replacement models? thanks!
No diff drop and OE replacement shocks... still love them Belltech's.
Seems like if you put spindles on the front the droop would be better. Not sure of the cost though.
Good suggestion but I'm not sure that works with 4x4 but pre runners do that for sure.
18:44 look at the slop in the upper control arm mount
Seems about normal... those aren't high performance but stock replacement units. I would like a better upper control arm to dial in more positive caster but can't find one.
@@AutoEdits Do you think a ball joint spacer might help with more droop?
@@AutoEdits
R/C makes a set of UCAs that will get you up off of that bump stop and keep it from bottoming out.
Great guidance and great looking OBS Tahoe! I appreciate your insight if possible- i’m working on widening the rear track of my 99 Tahoe 4wd with the factory 16’s but have run into a lug nut size challenge. i have the 7/8 size, 3/4” length lugs on the truck now but can’t find a thin wall socket that size that will fit in the spacer or a 13/16 size lug short enough to fit behind the factory wheels. i’m trying to keep the factory wheels-Any tips?
I just use a standard craftsman 1/2" drive socket for those. Just don't use an impact since it will eventually break the socket.
Where did you get your sway bar links for the front and the back
Merry Christmas Jason and pinto
Thanks and merry Christmas to you!
Got a two door I am planning on doing the business too. Just needs an engine and front diff rebuild plus the height adjustment. Like what you have done with yours.
It's working out so well!
Great video! I have a 1999 K1500 Suburban that I want to add a couple inches to, and just want to confirm that I should just add blocks in the back and adjust the stock torsion keys? Any other mods that would be needed? Thanks!
That's pretty much it, this video does a good job detailing everything. Since I had wider tires I put the wheel spacers on the back.
@@AutoEdits great - thank you!
Can u place links to your bumber lol inlove with that thing , thinking of putting one on my tahoe
www.buckstopinc.com/baja-1201.html
@@AutoEdits ty
How does the 35s and with 2 inch lift ride on the highway. Is there any vibration?
This thing rides amazingly well. It is my go to daily driver and all over Los Angeles.
Great video.. out of topic. I'm in san fernando valley and I'm having issues with 03 qx4 4x4 it has a delay of shifting. I've already done transmission fluid change via pan drop. Changed the transmission filter but it still has that delay.. any help would be greatly appreciated.
I’m not sure. Put a code reader on there and see if a shift solenoid is going bad.
Ah… I remember coating my dirt bikes in WD40. Lol Good times. Great video
Thank you! Cheers!
Great information 👍🏼 what you did in the front sway bar links?
I just got the stock replacement endlinks from Mevotec and just reused the original bushings with some fresh grease.
another awesome video
Thanks for the visit!
did you have to cut off any of the studs on the rear axle when adding those rear wheel spacers? I was think of getting the same ones
Nope, they bolted right on.
Does this apply to 88-99 k1500? Also you are saying to keep the stock torsion keys and crank them to a level ride?
Yes and yes. Save you a few dollars.
@@AutoEdits with the rear sway bar could you have used adjustable sway bar end links? I think Kryptonite makes some.
Great video!
Thanks!
I got a truck question. So I get a 2016 ram 1500 2 wheel 5.7 with a 2 piece drive shaft and the center bearing support. I just saw your vid where you upgraded your drive shaft from a 2 to 1 piece, and I was wondering if I can upgrade my drive shaft to a one piece from the 2 piece?
Absolutely! I just called Tom Wood's driveshaft and they gave me the measurements they needed and was able to order the parts you saw in the video... 4 years and almost 30,000 miles and still going great.
Going to try this with dads Jeep
I love that front bumper, where'd you get it?
th-cam.com/video/Cr27tRCPzBo/w-d-xo.html
From that height, it really looks like the kind of Tahoe you should sell me.
Love this... LOL!
Merry Christmas Jason I have a question about the grizzly locker- how does it perform on the street noise wise and would you recommend it for a daily driven pickup that only sees off road on occasion?
I think it is totally bearable as a daily and accept the clicking in parking lots. If it’s just for occasional use, I would recommend the Duragrip ! Tons of traction and super mild to live with.
hey question for the front can yu cut the front bump stop to get a better lift and better ride or no? just a question
I wouldn't... that's what keeps the tire from bottoming out and destroying the inner fender area.
I need a way to prevent new suspension parts from rusting after a year.
How do you clear 35s without using the full 2 inches I have stock keys maxed on 32s and the rub every corner
th-cam.com/video/4HAc4h4dOlk/w-d-xo.html
What wheel spacer are you running in the back and did you have to cut the wheel studs down?
I used the 1" spacers in this shopping list and did not cut studs. www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
Did you rebuild the front differential with 4:56’s as well? Did you ever look at the Detroit TruTrac Limited Slips?
Oh and have you ever considered switching to the 14sf? I have a 93 K1500 and worry about the 10bolt even with upgrading it. My buddies at work are trying to get me going with my truck for their once a year Death Valley trip in December
Yes, it's 4:56 front and rear. For what I do with the truck at this point... the 10 bolt with hardened axle shafts is fine. I put a grizzly locker in the rear and wish I had gone with the Yukon limited slip. Here's a trip with this rig in death valley th-cam.com/video/SLxA9hlW9y8/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoEdits ok cool beans. I think you mentioned something about the electronic locker but that’s a pretty penny and probably way overkill. Thanks man! I appreciate your videos and information!
Another great video!
Thanks dude!
Great explanation. 🤟😎
Thanks! 😃
Merry Christmas Jason. FYI, another issue with aftermarket torsion keys is that they are typically cast, oem are forged. Forged are much stronger and cast often fail when used agressively.
Merry Christmas Tank! If I wasn't so lazy, I'd stuff the stock keys back in there... maybe soon!
I like your shirt. What brand is it?
Have you had any issues with wear and driving in rain with the 35s on stock width wheels?
I’ve been pleasantly surprised with how well it drives in the rain on the current setup.
@@AutoEdits glad to hear!
@@fordracerforever I guess I can offer a bit more detail in that the air pressure I'm running is 34 psi.
@@AutoEdits that’s about what I run on stock rubicon wheels and pattys. 👍🏼
Hello I ask you so where did front bumper ???
th-cam.com/video/Cr27tRCPzBo/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoEdits oh ok got it 👍 thank 👍
My 1999 subborn 4x4 5
.7 v8 black 4 door
@@AutoEdits LT
No adjustments were made to the front diff. ?
I had the gears changed to 4.56:1 and that's it.
Awesome brother! I always see guys putting in a new frnt. diff. bracket and having to cut on it etc...even with just a 2" lift...I've got a '96 Tahoe and am planning to follow your lead as I like your style....save where you can and spend where appropriate...although I'm thinking 33"'s. I really appreciate your vids! Peace.
Thanks and 33's would be just as capable as this truck plus have full steering lock!
I take my stage 2 and 3 rags to the car wash and wash them to get a few more rounds out of them because those shop rags have became an item I don’t buy as much as I use to at even the dollar stores etc because the price is getting higher.
Love this!
Which lift blocks did you use?
Just about everything I used is in this list www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS?tag=onamzjasonlew-20&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
Superlift is the brand.
Good stuff! Thanks much!
You bet!
Where did you get that front bumper?
That’s from Buckstop I did a video on it Buckstop Baja Front Bumper Install for OBS Chevy Tahoe and Truck
th-cam.com/video/Cr27tRCPzBo/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoEdits Thanks I appreciate it
Are you running stock length shocks in the rear? Sweet rig
Yes... stock length shocks and the do great!
I have a 1999 Tahoe, and I want it 2-3 inches, but I want it to be close to level, your truck looks kinda raked ( back higher than the front ) but I want to lift it, but the front needs to come up, I want to fit like 275s-285s 32-32.8 inch tire. I’m looking at the torch lift kit, it’s a 2-3 inch front and 2 inch blocks in the back, how would I not max out the down travel on the front?
Thanks so much!
You bet!
Do the shocks you mention come with the 2 inch added length for the lift? Or is it that i dont need longer shocks? Could i use my oems for now so im not spending all the && at once
You can use stock length shocks for a 2 inch lift. 👍
@@AutoEdits thank you got your prompt reply. will be doing this on a 99 suburban k1500. For the tires, i think ill go to 265/75/16 or even 285/75/16. 35s look great but i don’t think ill be doing all that you do. Currently in search for the stock wheels and redoing rear brakes completely
I love that you still have the stock wheels on the Tahoe.
They'll stay for a while longer... I kind of like them as well.
Yep, they make the rig!
OK so I'm blond . I recently bought a 02 Tahoe with a lift with absolutely 0 knowledge of part replacement for the thing I believe that I have a bearing going out on pass side there is some clunking some rattling starting to kinda wondering in the steering when suspended I got play side to side and top and bottom so I'm thinking tie rod ends and ball joint but how in the world do I replace them if I go with the standard are they going to hold up to the rest of the cusome lift maybe I need a mechanic idk I've always been able to diagnose buy and replace any of these things in the past by ordering the standard but this is completely new to me and you seem to know or be knowledgeable of the lift this so I decided to inquire about problem feel free to message me or not either way thanks for the video
A lot of the parts I used on this build are in this shopping list for you to reference and hopefully help a bit www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
The 02 is my favorite body style of these!
Jason if i don't cut the bump stops how will it ride
Probably fine. I just like to maximize the amount of travel for best performance. Give it a try and see... can always cut them later.
Rule of thumb on these is the bump stop keeps the CVs from binding. I have 2” keys with RC arms and bilstien 5100s on the front and full droop binds the CV axles. So diff drop is needed with just 2-3” of lift if you want correct crv angles and proper UCA alignment angles.
Great information. Between the redhead steering box and the kryptonite components, which of the two do you feel made the biggest improvement to your trucks steering wheel play?
Great question! The steering box in this thing was leaking very bad and could've been adjusted to firm it up so the replacement of the ball joints and steering linkages probably had the greatest impact on the steering feel improvements. The new steering box was mostly due to the fact it costs almost as much to rebuild one as to get a new (rebuilt) unit.
Hey Jason I got a question for you. My brother has a 1997 GMC Suburban (basically same as your Tahoe) and his is an electronic 4x4 and when the tires are all off the ground the 4x4 works when engaged but when it is on the ground and you push the 4x4 button it sounds like something is binding or locking up. The tires start chirping or skipping and the whole car starts jerking as if something was holding the back and preventing it from going. Any ideas what the issue could be?
Had that happen on my 99. The actuator motor was bad on it. I replaced the switch inside because they a famous for goin bad but still had the issue. New actuator screwed in and it’s all good. Takes about 30 minutes to do one handed. The lights on he switch should stay solid also. If they blinking or off, it’s shot.
@@jasonb4738 - Thank you very much I will pass this information on.
@@jasonb4738 - So an update, I replaced the actuator motor and I can select the 4hi and the vehicle actually moves without binding up and I can hear it actuating but the light on the switch won’t stay solid it just keeps blinking. So I even replaced the 4x4 selector switch and it still doesn’t stay steady it just blinks. Any ideas?
@@alexlubbe needs to be reset. You should be able to unplug the negative on the battery for an hour and it will clear out. That the easiest way. But. You can pull the dash panel back off and find the control box. It has 2 wires that can be unplugged. Start it up and test the 4wd in and out. Then plug the wires up and test again. Should be ok. If not pull the battery. It’s easier to reset the radio than takin all that lose to fix it. 🤷♂️
@@jasonb4738 - I tried disconnecting the battery and it’s still just flashing.
What exact brake lines are those?
Just about everything is in this amazon list, I just checked and the front and rear brake lines are in there: www.amazon.com/shop/autoedits/list/1FNPJI3AJKMXS?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d