Suspension is typically a very complex topic... I find it refreshing to see that in the past at least, engineers made suspension at simple as possible when things like leaf springs and torsion bars... They just seem so primitive and crayon simple to me. I love the concept of a torsion bar in general and how they work because you might actually be able to correct a sagging suspension on an old truck with a few turns of a screw. I think that's a great design. I found your video to be very informative, clear and safe.
thanks to people like you.. i have a job. when you lift a chevy always loosen then tighten suspension bolts with the vehicle on the floor at the rubber bushings after the ride height change to keep from tearing out the bushings. some aligment guys dont do know to do this or are just to lazy to do it, so do it yourself then get an alignment at a good shop. and no, a key lift on a chevy does not accelerate ball joint/tie rod wear.. these usually last 60-90 k on a stock vehicle any way.
This is the argument I don’t understand, even if it accelerates it, I replaced my entire front end, new control arms and everything. It only cost MAYBE $500 And a days worth of slow paced work. Now I have more adjustment in my control arms, and if my joints start going bad after 50k miles, I’ll just swap them out in my driveway, cheap and easy. The ride height, bigger tires, and ground clearance are easily worth half a days worth of trouble every 50k+ miles. A lot of times the people complaining don’t just level, they throw in bigger wheels and tires, end up hauling ass into ditches and mud holes, then complain the suspension wore out faster than stock. Of course it did.
@@LirokuToragi Where'd you get your parts? I'm looking at doing the front end of my '01 2500HD and I'm at $1,125 @ Rockauto (after discount/shipping/tax). That's for idler arm/bracket, pitman arm, steering damper, inner/outer tie rods, upper/lower control arms, and front/rear shocks, all Moog and ACDelco. Did you use Detroit Axle parts off ebay or something?
Been looking for a video to help me understand how the torsion bar can be adjusted, and you helped me understand it all. Great work and great commentary throughout!
I too like my vehicles in stock configuration but hey, if I hadn't seen the before and after, I'd have never known why this truck looks so awesome! Thanks for the ideas and the fun 'how-to'.
My 06 GMC Yukon 4x4 sits a little less then 1/4" on the driver's rear also. It has 130K miles with the original springs and nivomat self leveling shocks in the rear. I just replaced the front shocks with Bilstein 4600 yellow heavy duty shocks. Rides great. The front blue A/C Delco premium smooth ride Z85 4x4 shocks were still good. Took a great amount of effort to push them down.
Always measure from the center of the wheel to the fender wheel Not the ground, due to tire pressure and possible in level ground it could throw you off.
Norwich New York Screen Repair Order a new fender and color match it with spray paint. You can do it yourself for less than $300 even if you do both sides.
Did this to my 2000 Silverado 1500 about a month after I bought it last year. The torsion bars had fatigued and the lower A arms were riding on the jounce bumpers. They need .5 to .75 inch clearance. I did a shock extension kit because the factory ones are ridiculously short. Adjusted the headlights and had an alignment done. The camber was out. After that I added upgraded anti roll bars front and rear and yesterday had a Detroit trutrac installed to replace the broken G80. I think I need to go to one of them meetings where you state your name and confess that you have a problem.
you sure do love your Suburbans! And it's super cool that you take the time to make these videos for people that enjoy the same things as you do. You're not pretentious and you're not condescending. You just seem like a really super nice guy. I enjoy watching your videos Bud keep up the good work!
I've ran stock keys cranked on stock shocks, I've ran 3" keys cranked on stock/rancho shocks, 3" keys on a diesel cranked with shock risers. Some rode better, some rode worse.. but they all worked, and I didnt create a problem elsewhere. At least during my abuse of ownership. Do what ( you can afford ) makes you happy.
Nice! Very helpful. Its always nice to see it actually done instead of hearing how its done. I’m sure when it is due for some new rubber, some serious all terrains would really go a long way towards making it look less like a MILF mobile and more like a guy’s truck. Thanks for the vid.
people are always getting ripped off with buying keys. Someone just the other day told me on my 2500hd I would have a better ride if I went with aftermarket keys than cranked stock keys. When I told them I still have a ton of adjustment left with the stock keys and dont need aftermarket they said that my ride will be like stock but the height will be the same as it is now. Then I realized they had no clue what they are talking about, just like everyone else that buys new keys.
I had to switch to aftermarket keys, because my springs were worn so bad, especially on driver side, even at max adjustment I still had a 2” rake on it. Keys are cheaper than new springs. If I snap a bar I’ll buy a new one, until then, keys are cheap.
Some of us need aftermarket keys because we put in offset bushings and have the cam bolts maxed out also. When you do this the stock keys aren't enough.
I bought a 2004 Tahoe with 150k+ miles. When they first came out I was young and always wanted one, now that I got one I'm so in love with it. I had to do some minor repairs and upgrades but have been working on it mostly on my own to my experience. Thank you for all your videos I have definitely learned a lot more about my Tahoe thanks to you!
Although it's more accurate to measure down the center from the edge of the rim or the center, I think you nailed the adjustments. That Chevy lean will be there. Clean truck.
Show us a pic of the lower A arm and how close it is to the bump stop now. One of the main problems with cranking the Tbars besides harsh ride is the angle of the drive joints and wear on ball joints.
@@salty_terminal_civilian5374 different keys don't change the physics of the A-arm system. Literally no different than keeping your money and tightening the stock ones.
@@williamiverson903 I design control arms but thank you for your opinion. The different index changes the angle of the torsion bar. The torsion bar is what positions the A arm.... If the torsion bar is in the same location, but the key is pushing higher than stock it keeps the angles the same.
The A arm is merely a lever with a fixed point on the frame. The only way to raise the ride hight is to drop the fixed point with proper lift bracket or steepen the angle. This is a fact regardless of what's holding the back side of the bar.
At 1:48 perhaps you can also mention how this type of lifting adds extra wear to the CV joints (when equipped) now that they will work at an extreme angle all the time.
Its a good idea to have it aligned afterward. Even a small 1.5 inch lift changes your geometry. May not change it enough to affect how it drives, but it will definitely shorten the life of your tires.
@@bodine2537 Lies. Lies. Lies. I'll bet my lunch money on it. Get the FSM's out and prove me wrong bud. I'm not going to tell you where to find the answer, but it starts with camber...
I have a Hummer H2 and used Kryptonite upper control arms and fox shocks for a 1-2” lift. Then cranked the stock keys to level it. The Kryptonite upper control arms are designed to put the ball joint at the proper angle and give good clearance between arm and stop. I think that is a better solution.
@Craig D Yes and No depending how high you crank them up?! Any lowered headlight adjustments will be appreciated by other motorist! You most likely only get 2 inches of adjustment anyway! Not enough and the tabs break easy on the headlghts! I had a 2004 Chevy Avalanche 2500 4x4 BTW. They did make the truck look bad ass!
Ive been looking and researching lifts for my 2017 2500Hd and ive come to conclusion that you have to buy a lift kit that has keys,upper control arms,dif and shock spacer to keep the factory ride quality. Changing the keys makes the truck ride like a 3 legged cow in a sand pit. Do it right the first time. These kits can be bought for around 1000 bucks.
That might be true for new low milage trucks. This was a 2003 old ass truck that has and old worn out suspension. It needs a bit of firming up from all the sag its developed over 15 years. My 04 is in the same boat. The suspension is squishy and needs firming up. We're not looking at lifting it, we're trying to get the thing back closer to the way it was when it was sold.
I dunno. Not sure how long this took, 30 mins a side? Its inside so the temp should be stable, and on the same patch of ground. I think that unless he had a huge air leak or temp change inside of 30 mins that his measuring points are fine.
Get 1.5 inch wheel spacers, LED swap everything, some 33 x 12.5 inch all terrain tires, remove the pin strips, tint the windows and taillights. But I love the look of new factory wheels on older vehicles
I have an 05 Suburban and Love it !!!I fix everything it needs because I am too cheap to pay someone, lol. This is a Kool Video and if your happy than thats all that matters. I also put 20 inch rims on mine and it made a world of difference in looks. Its my Suburban and I will do what I want. Thank You for Sharing.
FYI if you do mess with your torsion keys or replace them it be highly recommend for alignment after. Also if you tow i wouldn't recommend leveling the front as now your rear will be off now.
did you check the tire pressure in the back left?looks great! thanks for letting us know the ride is rougher, but i guess with shocks it will be okay? how much for the 4 shocks? are rough country shocks in their level kit any good?
Looks good! Those are pretty neat keys. You should get the Z71 coil springs in the rear. I put them in my 00 Suburban, turned up the factory torsion keys and put some factory 20s on it and it looked great! Don't forget to get an alignment after you get it all dialed in.
I have been seeing videos were people are leveling vehicles a lot in the last year. there is a few reasons why trucks and SUVs are higher in the rear. 1 If you are carrying a load it keeps you from looking ridiculous. 2 that little bit of nose down reduces wind resistance by leveling you will be paying more for gas.
@Brandon S www.autoguysland.com/truck-leveling-kit-pros-cons/ This was the very first thing that popped up and I know this is not a study it was also not the only result there is a lot of information from pros saying that basically lifting a truck at all is going to negatively impact MPG.
Great video sir! Nothing but what we need to see and hear. I just found a 2001 Tahoe with 108K miles mint condition. It is going to look so much better.
So the front is now higher and level with the rear. How will this truck look when passengers, 200 lbs of full fuel and then cargo are loaded? Headlights shooting to the sky? Nicely made video and nice rust-free truck !
Since you've changed the tire & rim size, have you checked your speedometer to say GPS to make sure you didn't gain more speed over your stock speedometer? To avoid unwanted speeding tickets? Just a thought. I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 that I'd like to lower to or about as low as the PPV/SSV version of the Tahoe for better road control, i.e., less of a chance of unwanted rollover. I totally appreciated your video. Thanks, Eddie J. Long Island N.Y.
Bilsteins are great. Came with my tundra 4x4 TRD. Replaced the ford racing shocks with a set of Bilsteins on my 07 mustang shelby's stage 3 ford racing handling pack. Much better.
I too like to keep my trucks stock looking and I bought some later model OEM wheels for my 95 Sierra I used to have and loved to look. The Suburban looks great Jimmy, good job man.
I have noticed on chevys in particular if you get newer oem wheels they always look way better than the original wheels, I have seen a lot of the older Tahoe's and suburban in this era with newer factory wheels and they always look clean.
After you took your torsion key stop out, looks like your torsion bar to lower control arm bushing was shot for wobbling around that much. That affects your height too. Might want to change your bushing while you have your torsion bar out.
The truck rides pretty stiff now I'm thinking about getting some track bars or a rear sway bar installed. You feel every little bump but it handles the big bumps just fine.
Oh and I'm sitting at about 39 in in the rear and 38 and 1/8 in the front. I don't mind a little bit of rake to avoid it looking like I'm popping a wheelie when I pull a trailer! Lol
If you get the 51 hundreds that are made for a two inch lift, they will raise the truck up a little more. Again, they are very stiff. Might want to try Ranchos, they come stock on the new Chevy Silverado and are a softer ride for a passenger vehicle especially.
That looks bad ass i have one the same color with the barn doors and I’m planning on adding a 2 or 3inch lift and leveling kit and adding the newer suburban wheels(black)
The reason the ride isn't as smooth as factory is because you preload the control arm bushings when you crank the torsion bars up. Whenever you adjust the torsion bars you must loosen all four control arm bolts so they can move freely and then adjust the bars and once you have the ride height you want then tighten the control arm bolts and have the truck aligned. If you do it this way it retains the factory comfort level.
And remember to snug the bolts, rest the vehicle down on its suspension, then torque down the bolts, or the bushings will start to squeak on you. Also good luck on these 4 bolts if your truck lives in the salt belt. Had to use a cutting torch on my last truck to get UCA bolts out.
@@nickluchowski Not to be a jerk but I am an ASE certified mechanic and I can tell you that your theory is pointless. The control arm bushings are already set in for one.. if they were installed correctly to begin with (attachment fasteners torqued and torque angle applied, if applicable, with the suspension under static load). Second, all that adjusting torsion key bolts does is adjusts the Z trim height. It does this by turning the torsion bars which in turn rotates and sets the lower control arms at a different angle (positive angles raise, negative angles lower the trim height). During all drive cycles, the control arms operate through this same range of motion they are going through during a torsion key adjustment. Nothing is binding during the adjustment, nothing new is being applied that dictates a special service other than a wheel alignment check/adjust to finalize the RO. So any positive results you are experiencing is all in your head.
Good job here Jimmy. Very good presentation and process. They only thing I would have done extra is put a small dab of bearing grease on the rounded end of they stock adjustment bolt to help prevent galling on that end and ease installation and adjustment but it isn't technically necessary.
now, it needs a a wheel alignment. the steering geometry is all changed now, you could start wearing tires if you don't align it, also may need to level, or align the headlights as well
Using newer stock wheels is the way to go. It always looks good. I have a 06 grand Cherokee limited that's lifted 2 inches, and I put a set of new Rubicon wheels on it.
Jimmy nice truck, I don't recommend cranking the t-bar to raise the truck. It changes the alignment and wears out the ball joints. Not worth the hassle.
Before you guys start making these modifications, do some research, you might not want to do this, because when you change the factory ride height , you also change the pinion angle of the rear end, which won't be a big problem, unless you plan on towing something. Good luck.
I got my keys for 40 bucks on Amazon it even came with the shock extenders that you should put on a good idea is to measure adjustment bolts befor you start so you get it back to factory settings
But you're not going to be at factory settings. Different keys are no different than tightening the stock ones except now a crappy lift company has some of your money. Lol
Ride looks great. Have you had any issues with excessive wear on suspension components, ball joints, steering, etc., as a result of installing the torsion keys? I've read where completing a lift can accelerate wear and tear on the front end as a result. I'm looking to just level my front end with the rear on a 2001 Chevy 3500. Thanks.
Nice job, looks great! Be careful going into parking garages with the additional lift.Great looking wheels as well. I have a white 2003 Tahoe with 99000 miles on it, been a great vehicle. Just put a drivers side window regulator on drivers side door today.
First, I'd like to say great videos! Keep em coming. I have a 98 tahoe with a plow and was thinking about these keys,to help with the weight up front and i was wondering if you have heard about a ball joint lift and what you think about them, Im still doing some pros and cons research, just thought id ask as this is part of the research 👍🏼thanks
You had plenty of adjustment left in your stock keys screws. About 4 turns in would have done the exact same thing. Little more firm but a little higher.
If you just go a little bit, especially just to level it a bit, you will be fine. That being said, I have worked for Chevrolet for many years, I have seen a lot of snapped torsion bars in my day from people jacking them way up. I'm not saying it is definitely going to break if you Crank It Up, just saying to be careful, it can and does happen. Now keep in mind I'm sure that has a lot to do with the way the vehicles are used and driven as well, not solely from cranking the torsion bars up
All you have to do is swap the factory bars from one side to another side and you get this same lift for completely free. And if you really wanna be big for cheap you can put some lift keys on top of that. But you’ll have to cut your bump stops out from under your uca and put some shock extenders on. You’ll have four inches of lift for less than $200. And you can do it for less by doing everything yourself. Id recommend getting better balljoints though and takeout your cv axles cause both will be destroyed if you do this
Good video Jimmy. I need to lift my 98 Suburban. The back is sagging a little bit and I want to put a slight lift on the vehicle overall. I want to do 3 inches on the back and 2 inches on the front to level things out before I put bigger tires and wheels on it.
Good video, one thing I don't get is why measure from the ground and get inaccurate reading when the better way to measure suspension height is from center of the hub to the fender line.. Tires and ground can be uneven and give a inaccurate measurement
Has to be the cleanest '03 Suburban I've ever seen
You haven’t seen many then lol they’re everywhere
Suspension is typically a very complex topic...
I find it refreshing to see that in the past at least, engineers made suspension at simple as possible when things like leaf springs and torsion bars... They just seem so primitive and crayon simple to me. I love the concept of a torsion bar in general and how they work because you might actually be able to correct a sagging suspension on an old truck with a few turns of a screw. I think that's a great design.
I found your video to be very informative, clear and safe.
thanks to people like you.. i have a job. when you lift a chevy always loosen then tighten suspension bolts with the vehicle on the floor at the rubber bushings after the ride height change to keep from tearing out the bushings. some aligment guys dont do know to do this or are just to lazy to do it, so do it yourself then get an alignment at a good shop. and no, a key lift on a chevy does not accelerate ball joint/tie rod wear.. these usually last 60-90 k on a stock vehicle any way.
Actually, levels do put more stress on the rods and ball joints. But luckily, ball joints and tie rods aren't too expensive.
This is the argument I don’t understand, even if it accelerates it, I replaced my entire front end, new control arms and everything. It only cost MAYBE $500 And a days worth of slow paced work. Now I have more adjustment in my control arms, and if my joints start going bad after 50k miles, I’ll just swap them out in my driveway, cheap and easy. The ride height, bigger tires, and ground clearance are easily worth half a days worth of trouble every 50k+ miles.
A lot of times the people complaining don’t just level, they throw in bigger wheels and tires, end up hauling ass into ditches and mud holes, then complain the suspension wore out faster than stock. Of course it did.
@@LirokuToragi Where'd you get your parts? I'm looking at doing the front end of my '01 2500HD and I'm at $1,125 @ Rockauto (after discount/shipping/tax). That's for idler arm/bracket, pitman arm, steering damper, inner/outer tie rods, upper/lower control arms, and front/rear shocks, all Moog and ACDelco. Did you use Detroit Axle parts off ebay or something?
Hey Mark. Still in the lift business?
@GrandPrix46 well you are buying parts for a 2500..pay that money or sell that truck
Been looking for a video to help me understand how the torsion bar can be adjusted, and you helped me understand it all. Great work and great commentary throughout!
Looks great! Updating older vehicles is the way to go.
I too like my vehicles in stock configuration but hey, if I hadn't seen the before and after, I'd have never known why this truck looks so awesome! Thanks for the ideas and the fun 'how-to'.
My 06 GMC Yukon 4x4 sits a little less then 1/4" on the driver's rear also. It has 130K miles with the original springs and nivomat self leveling shocks in the rear. I just replaced the front shocks with Bilstein 4600 yellow heavy duty shocks. Rides great. The front blue A/C Delco premium smooth ride Z85 4x4 shocks were still good. Took a great amount of effort to push them down.
Instructions unclear where’s the rust that falls in your eyes?
I know right he dident mention that😂
Squint faster
If u ever have to change the bushings for the cross member that the keys set in when u hammer out the rivets that rust will definitely get u
It's better when it's soaked in chlorinated brakeleen
Instructions unclear….. dick stuck in fan belt.
Always measure from the center of the wheel to the fender wheel
Not the ground, due to tire pressure and possible in level ground it could throw you off.
Literally exactly!
My fender is rusted tho
Norwich New York Screen Repair
Order a new fender and color match it with spray paint. You can do it yourself for less than $300 even if you do both sides.
@@jackd2083 breh fender flares r $30
Norwich New York Screen Repair
Flares are an option. Still should cut out and or treat any rust and paint to seal the metal👍
Did this to my 2000 Silverado 1500 about a month after I bought it last year. The torsion bars had fatigued and the lower A arms were riding on the jounce bumpers. They need .5 to .75 inch clearance. I did a shock extension kit because the factory ones are ridiculously short. Adjusted the headlights and had an alignment done. The camber was out. After that I added upgraded anti roll bars front and rear and yesterday had a Detroit trutrac installed to replace the broken G80. I think I need to go to one of them meetings where you state your name and confess that you have a problem.
@Tsunauticus III best trucks in the world
@Womb Raider I know you're laughing because it's true and you're overwhelmed with joy.
you sure do love your Suburbans! And it's super cool that you take the time to make these videos for people that enjoy the same things as you do. You're not pretentious and you're not condescending. You just seem like a really super nice guy. I enjoy watching your videos Bud keep up the good work!
That's a great compliment! I don't deserve it but thank you and God bless you.
I agree! Thanks to him I too have the Flex A Lite fan set up and whooooa! I love it!
I've ran stock keys cranked on stock shocks, I've ran 3" keys cranked on stock/rancho shocks, 3" keys on a diesel cranked with shock risers. Some rode better, some rode worse.. but they all worked, and I didnt create a problem elsewhere. At least during my abuse of ownership. Do what ( you can afford ) makes you happy.
We’ll what rode the worst and what road the best then ? Haha
Would've been nice to know
Nice! Very helpful. Its always nice to see it actually done instead of hearing how its done. I’m sure when it is due for some new rubber, some serious all terrains would really go a long way towards making it look less like a MILF mobile and more like a guy’s truck. Thanks for the vid.
people are always getting ripped off with buying keys. Someone just the other day told me on my 2500hd I would have a better ride if I went with aftermarket keys than cranked stock keys. When I told them I still have a ton of adjustment left with the stock keys and dont need aftermarket they said that my ride will be like stock but the height will be the same as it is now. Then I realized they had no clue what they are talking about, just like everyone else that buys new keys.
Brandon I clicked on this video to tell this dipshit exactly that lol
I had to switch to aftermarket keys, because my springs were worn so bad, especially on driver side, even at max adjustment I still had a 2” rake on it. Keys are cheaper than new springs. If I snap a bar I’ll buy a new one, until then, keys are cheap.
Some of us need aftermarket keys because we put in offset bushings and have the cam bolts maxed out also. When you do this the stock keys aren't enough.
Makes sence my duramax was 1.5" to low just cranked the tension and walla level if you are going up 2" you don't need a key
I bought a 2004 Tahoe with 150k+ miles.
When they first came out I was young and always wanted one, now that I got one I'm so in love with it.
I had to do some minor repairs and upgrades but have been working on it mostly on my own to my experience.
Thank you for all your videos I have definitely learned a lot more about my Tahoe thanks to you!
I just bought an old Chevrolet Avalanche 2004. And I have a lot to do! Good luck with everything! Greetings from Russia!
Although it's more accurate to measure down the center from the edge of the rim or the center, I think you nailed the adjustments. That Chevy lean will be there. Clean truck.
Pro Tip; Make sure there are upper control arms with extra Camber offset available for your vehicle before install.
Show us a pic of the lower A arm and how close it is to the bump stop now. One of the main problems with cranking the Tbars besides harsh ride is the angle of the drive joints and wear on ball joints.
Uhhhhhh yeah, and the fact that you have zero down travel in the wheel arc left, mostly.
Not with the different index of aftermarket keys
@@salty_terminal_civilian5374 different keys don't change the physics of the A-arm system. Literally no different than keeping your money and tightening the stock ones.
@@williamiverson903 I design control arms but thank you for your opinion. The different index changes the angle of the torsion bar. The torsion bar is what positions the A arm.... If the torsion bar is in the same location, but the key is pushing higher than stock it keeps the angles the same.
The A arm is merely a lever with a fixed point on the frame. The only way to raise the ride hight is to drop the fixed point with proper lift bracket or steepen the angle. This is a fact regardless of what's holding the back side of the bar.
It looks perfect. Leveling and just fixing the overall stance makes such a big difference in looks for me.
At 1:48 perhaps you can also mention how this type of lifting adds extra wear to the CV joints (when equipped) now that they will work at an extreme angle all the time.
This old Volkswagen guy loves torsion bars. Nicely done!
It's still pretty much stock when you put the same brand wheels on, and it refreshes the look with quality wheels
Some 16x10s on 35s or even some 20x12s on 35s would look nice
Great voice, great camera work, great teacher. Perfect combo for teaching others!
Its a good idea to have it aligned afterward. Even a small 1.5 inch lift changes your geometry. May not change it enough to affect how it drives, but it will definitely shorten the life of your tires.
Nothing is changed with a lift bud, it’s only higher , no change to the toe or caster, camber
@@bodine2537 cranking the torsion bars absolutely changes you front end geometry...bud.
@@jethro9341 wrong , I know for a fact it don’t change anything and yes I do front end alignments
@@bodine2537 Lies. Lies. Lies. I'll bet my lunch money on it. Get the FSM's out and prove me wrong bud. I'm not going to tell you where to find the answer, but it starts with camber...
@@bodine2537 the alignment absolutely changes. You suck as an alignment guy
I have a Hummer H2 and used Kryptonite upper control arms and fox shocks for a 1-2” lift. Then cranked the stock keys to level it. The Kryptonite upper control arms are designed to put the ball joint at the proper angle and give good clearance between arm and stop. I think that is a better solution.
Suspension Maxx is right down the road from me, the owner and workers are good dudes.
Tell them about my video! Haha
Now that you raised the front end, do us all a favor and lower the headlights. I'm surprised you didn't mention that.
Yes, you are right! If you don't people will be flashing their lights at you because the headlights are blinding them.
What's new everybody has LEDs these days and you get blinded by every fuckin vehical on the road. Fuck em. Prolly can see better with them high
That's ok, most 03's the head lights are fogged over anyway.
@Craig D Yes and No depending how high you crank them up?! Any lowered headlight adjustments will be appreciated by other motorist! You most likely only get 2 inches of adjustment anyway! Not enough and the tabs break easy on the headlghts! I had a 2004 Chevy Avalanche 2500 4x4 BTW. They did make the truck look bad ass!
No kidding.
I don't understand why you need different torsion keys when you can crank the stock adjustment bolt ?
Me either lol
Ive been looking and researching lifts for my 2017 2500Hd and ive come to conclusion that you have to buy a lift kit that has keys,upper control arms,dif and shock spacer to keep the factory ride quality. Changing the keys makes the truck ride like a 3 legged cow in a sand pit.
Do it right the first time. These kits can be bought for around 1000 bucks.
That might be true for new low milage trucks. This was a 2003 old ass truck that has and old worn out suspension. It needs a bit of firming up from all the sag its developed over 15 years. My 04 is in the same boat. The suspension is squishy and needs firming up. We're not looking at lifting it, we're trying to get the thing back closer to the way it was when it was sold.
I Screwed the Adjustment Bolts up to Level my 1998 Chevy 4x4 and it Rode like a Log Wagon--brought back to normal for good ride...
Imperfections in your concrete floor or tire pressure variations could make a diff too
True. I have a saying that goes like this, 'I can only do the best I can do.'
@@1RoadGarage and you did awsome! Enjoy the positive attitude man, now come help me lift mine! Lol
That is why you measure from the center of the hub to fender.
I dunno. Not sure how long this took, 30 mins a side? Its inside so the temp should be stable, and on the same patch of ground. I think that unless he had a huge air leak or temp change inside of 30 mins that his measuring points are fine.
U wrong not look level 😂😂😂
Thanks for showing how easy it is to work on torsion bars!
Nice Torsion Keys And good Install Video Jimmy 12:12 looks good @1Road
Get 1.5 inch wheel spacers, LED swap everything, some 33 x 12.5 inch all terrain tires, remove the pin strips, tint the windows and taillights. But I love the look of new factory wheels on older vehicles
I have an 05 Suburban and Love it !!!I fix everything it needs because I am too cheap to pay someone, lol. This is a Kool Video and if your happy than thats all that matters. I also put 20 inch rims on mine and it made a world of difference in looks. Its my Suburban and I will do what I want. Thank You for Sharing.
The wheels & tires look good 🚗
Looks great!!! Also a fan of factory wheels. Always make the tires task specific though. Makes vehicles so much more capable for the intended use.
FYI if you do mess with your torsion keys or replace them it be highly recommend for alignment after. Also if you tow i wouldn't recommend leveling the front as now your rear will be off now.
did you check the tire pressure in the back left?looks great! thanks for letting us know the ride is rougher, but i guess with shocks it will be okay? how much for the 4 shocks? are rough country shocks in their level kit any good?
Looks good! Those are pretty neat keys. You should get the Z71 coil springs in the rear. I put them in my 00 Suburban, turned up the factory torsion keys and put some factory 20s on it and it looked great! Don't forget to get an alignment after you get it all dialed in.
I have been seeing videos were people are leveling vehicles a lot in the last year.
there is a few reasons why trucks and SUVs are higher in the rear.
1 If you are carrying a load it keeps you from looking ridiculous.
2 that little bit of nose down reduces wind resistance by leveling you will be paying more for gas.
@Brandon S www.autoguysland.com/truck-leveling-kit-pros-cons/
This was the very first thing that popped up and I know this is not a study it was also not the only result there is a lot of information from pros saying that basically lifting a truck at all is going to negatively impact MPG.
Great video sir! Nothing but what we need to see and hear. I just found a 2001 Tahoe with 108K miles mint condition. It is going to look so much better.
So the front is now higher and level with the rear. How will this truck look when passengers, 200 lbs of full fuel and then cargo are loaded? Headlights shooting to the sky?
Nicely made video and nice rust-free truck !
Wow....you have expensive red torsion keys now...good job.
This is gold! Thanks for making this so easy, Im going to do this to my 05 burb
Dude I find you every where! Haha #ReaaaalNice
Since you've changed the tire & rim size, have you checked your speedometer to say GPS to make sure you didn't gain more speed over your stock speedometer? To avoid unwanted speeding tickets? Just a thought. I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 that I'd like to lower to or about as low as the PPV/SSV version of the Tahoe for better road control, i.e., less of a chance of unwanted rollover. I totally appreciated your video. Thanks, Eddie J. Long Island N.Y.
Bilsteins are great. Came with my tundra 4x4 TRD. Replaced the ford racing shocks with a set of Bilsteins on my 07 mustang shelby's stage 3 ford racing handling pack. Much better.
I didn't know how to do it, please!
Thank you again for giving us wonderful lesson👍🙏I hope your next video come out soon so that I can learn more🙏🙏
Beautiful! I have a 2002 GMC LB7 dually. Going to do the same thing after seeing your video. thanks bro.
Nice job. Your Suburban looks great
Thanks!!
What do mean by the ride quality is much improved? Can you elaborate? Thanks.
I too like to keep my trucks stock looking and I bought some later model OEM wheels for my 95 Sierra I used to have and loved to look. The Suburban looks great Jimmy, good job man.
I have noticed on chevys in particular if you get newer oem wheels they always look way better than the original wheels, I have seen a lot of the older Tahoe's and suburban in this era with newer factory wheels and they always look clean.
Hey Jimmy, you and Hoovie could be brothers 😂 nice vid 💪🏾
Really like the leveled look! thank you for your vids overall good quality
I have a 05 gmc sierra 5.3 and is very helpfull
I got these for my Colorado SO MUCH BETTER THAN STOCK! Takes guess work out
Nice ! Good tips!! video very clear to watch!!
After you took your torsion key stop out, looks like your torsion bar to lower control arm bushing was shot for wobbling around that much. That affects your height too. Might want to change your bushing while you have your torsion bar out.
Thanks Jimmy, good stuff. God bless ya.
I did the same to my 03 Silverado. Bilstein 5100 shocks all around. And added a leaf spring in the rear, but used Moog torsion keys.
The truck rides pretty stiff now I'm thinking about getting some track bars or a rear sway bar installed. You feel every little bump but it handles the big bumps just fine.
Oh and I'm sitting at about 39 in in the rear and 38 and 1/8 in the front. I don't mind a little bit of rake to avoid it looking like I'm popping a wheelie when I pull a trailer! Lol
If you get the 51 hundreds that are made for a two inch lift, they will raise the truck up a little more. Again, they are very stiff. Might want to try Ranchos, they come stock on the new Chevy Silverado and are a softer ride for a passenger vehicle especially.
Can you please do update on this? Did you like it , is there additional wear on suspension? Thank you.
Also a fan of the stock upgraded look...Meeeaaaaan!!
That looks bad ass i have one the same color with the barn doors and I’m planning on adding a 2 or 3inch lift and leveling kit and adding the newer suburban wheels(black)
The reason the ride isn't as smooth as factory is because you preload the control arm bushings when you crank the torsion bars up. Whenever you adjust the torsion bars you must loosen all four control arm bolts so they can move freely and then adjust the bars and once you have the ride height you want then tighten the control arm bolts and have the truck aligned. If you do it this way it retains the factory comfort level.
And remember to snug the bolts, rest the vehicle down on its suspension, then torque down the bolts, or the bushings will start to squeak on you. Also good luck on these 4 bolts if your truck lives in the salt belt. Had to use a cutting torch on my last truck to get UCA bolts out.
DO NOT DO THIS. POINTLESS. BAD ADVICE.
Pointless? Comprehend physics much?
@@nickluchowski Not to be a jerk but I am an ASE certified mechanic and I can tell you that your theory is pointless. The control arm bushings are already set in for one.. if they were installed correctly to begin with (attachment fasteners torqued and torque angle applied, if applicable, with the suspension under static load). Second, all that adjusting torsion key bolts does is adjusts the Z trim height. It does this by turning the torsion bars which in turn rotates and sets the lower control arms at a different angle (positive angles raise, negative angles lower the trim height). During all drive cycles, the control arms operate through this same range of motion they are going through during a torsion key adjustment. Nothing is binding during the adjustment, nothing new is being applied that dictates a special service other than a wheel alignment check/adjust to finalize the RO. So any positive results you are experiencing is all in your head.
Haha loosen the control arms that's the dumbest shit I've ever read
C clamp with the missing lower pad works, harbor freight c clamps seem to lose the lower pad easily.
Good job here Jimmy. Very good presentation and process. They only thing I would have done extra is put a small dab of bearing grease on the rounded end of they stock adjustment bolt to help prevent galling on that end and ease installation and adjustment but it isn't technically necessary.
now, it needs a a wheel alignment. the steering geometry is all changed now, you could start wearing tires if you don't align it, also may need to level, or align the headlights as well
That burb is super clean...👍👍
Using newer stock wheels is the way to go. It always looks good. I have a 06 grand Cherokee limited that's lifted 2 inches, and I put a set of new Rubicon wheels on it.
Looks great, I also own a 2003 suburban. I have 20' rims and tires currently. I'm going to change them back to stock or pick up something like yours.
Jimmy nice truck, I don't recommend cranking the t-bar to raise the truck. It changes the alignment and wears out the ball joints. Not worth the hassle.
Before you guys start making these modifications, do some research, you might not want to do this, because when you change the factory ride height , you also change the pinion angle of the rear end, which won't be a big problem, unless you plan on towing something.
Good luck.
Brandon S No, he’s speaking out of his rear end.
I got my keys for 40 bucks on Amazon it even came with the shock extenders that you should put on a good idea is to measure adjustment bolts befor you start so you get it back to factory settings
But you're not going to be at factory settings. Different keys are no different than tightening the stock ones except now a crappy lift company has some of your money. Lol
could you cut the top on the control arm to solve the issue, or would that hurt more than it helps?
Makes the front feel light. Also need longer shocks or shock extension brackets.
Ride looks great. Have you had any issues with excessive wear on suspension components, ball joints, steering, etc., as a result of installing the torsion keys? I've read where completing a lift can accelerate wear and tear on the front end as a result. I'm looking to just level my front end with the rear on a 2001 Chevy 3500. Thanks.
All it needs is a billet grill👍Looks great
Nice. Always enjoy your videos.
How did those torsion keys affect your ride?
Have a 99 gmc suburban.. this has been VERY helpful. THANKS..👊
Did you need the shock extension brackets? I'm doing my keys tomorrow. Thanks.
Hello and good day
Just wanted to know if you installed the shock extenders along with the new keys? Thanks in advance and have a great day.
Nice job, looks great! Be careful going into parking garages with the additional lift.Great looking wheels as well. I have a white 2003 Tahoe with 99000 miles on it, been a great vehicle. Just put a drivers side window regulator on drivers side door today.
Good tip. Didn't even think about that. Haha! I have to do a rear passenger regulator too!
Nicely done ✅- Looks good - Keeping it stock!
You should’ve put the Z71 rims on it because I think the Z71 rims would look good on the ‘03 Chevrolet Suburban
First, I'd like to say great videos! Keep em coming. I have a 98 tahoe with a plow and was thinking about these keys,to help with the weight up front and i was wondering if you have heard about a ball joint lift and what you think about them, Im still doing some pros and cons research, just thought id ask as this is part of the research 👍🏼thanks
DONT FORGET TO HAVE AN ALIGNMENT PERFORMED ON YOUR VEHICLE BECAUSE IT WILL AFFECT THE CAMBER AND CASTER MEASUREMENTS.
Love your video,
Can you explain why did you cover the licence plate number?
People do this all over the internet and I don't get why.
You can get a lot of information of a liscence plate where a person lives and what not
What about driving on public streets, should everyone cover their licence plates too ???
Very good video all the way down to the details. I want to go down not up. Still a great video. You just got another fan.
Thanks for getting back to me bud👌👌
You had plenty of adjustment left in your stock keys screws. About 4 turns in would have done the exact same thing. Little more firm but a little higher.
Gonna tackle this job Thursday that is for the video
Hint: pull your tools, pushing can break knuckles.
Broke my thumb yesterday* got the bolt though.
just push with an open hand ..
I will be waiting for those suspension videos
If you just go a little bit, especially just to level it a bit, you will be fine. That being said, I have worked for Chevrolet for many years, I have seen a lot of snapped torsion bars in my day from people jacking them way up. I'm not saying it is definitely going to break if you Crank It Up, just saying to be careful, it can and does happen. Now keep in mind I'm sure that has a lot to do with the way the vehicles are used and driven as well, not solely from cranking the torsion bars up
Those wheels look great!
All you have to do is swap the factory bars from one side to another side and you get this same lift for completely free. And if you really wanna be big for cheap you can put some lift keys on top of that. But you’ll have to cut your bump stops out from under your uca and put some shock extenders on. You’ll have four inches of lift for less than $200. And you can do it for less by doing everything yourself. Id recommend getting better balljoints though and takeout your cv axles cause both will be destroyed if you do this
Good video Jimmy. I need to lift my 98 Suburban. The back is sagging a little bit and I want to put a slight lift on the vehicle overall. I want to do 3 inches on the back and 2 inches on the front to level things out before I put bigger tires and wheels on it.
I would like to do that too, i got the wheela and tires, just need the keys and blocks now
Good video, one thing I don't get is why measure from the ground and get inaccurate reading when the better way to measure suspension height is from center of the hub to the fender line..
Tires and ground can be uneven and give a inaccurate measurement
very clear explanation 👌