I have been chasing an intermittent problem on the port side of a boat with twin 2002 Volvo TAMD73P-EDC engines for the last few seasons. Now, consistently the port side will turn over once and cut out. If I leave the ignition switch on I can jump the starter and run the engine fine. I have verified continuity of the harness from the Junction Box to the helm, swapped harnesses at the helm, and now looking at the EDC & harness in the engine room. I only have seen cannon plug style connectors throughout and not the 8pin ones as you've shown. That has me thinking there is an extension plug in-between the fly bridge helm and engine room... This video may have just helped me get to the bottom of the problem. Thank you for posting and sharing your knowledge sir.
@ecmo2007 glad it helps! I find that those 7 liters need a good "starting battery" with a CCA rating over 1000 amps. I've seen just that kind of issue due to low battery capacity
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 So to follow up.. Ted, this video really did help me find the issue after chasing it for 2-3 seasons. As suspected in my O.C. I found a cannon plug buried in the wire chase of the salon of the boat. (Not the new style connector you mentioned).. 3 of the contacts had backed out of the connector. One pin was to the alternator (causing me to chase low voltage as the issue) the second pin went to the EDC... My buddy called me a surgeon for figuring it out but truth be told, I gave you the credit sir. I don't think I would have found it without this video. I can't thank you enough.
@cobiaboats6316 there is a possible TSB on that. It's old of course but I believe I have it. Please email me at marinedoc01@yahoo.com so I can send it to you.
Hey Ted, Thanks for the Video, i have those engines in my boat.😊 In the technical Database stay 3.59 liter. We have had the problem, when we start the engines, the voltage go to far down so the edc had not enough to Funktion, even with a new starter battery. So we decided to gave the edc an separate Battery that voltage not go down in the moment that we use the starter. But now i have to switch on the battery for the starter and the edc battery. Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪 Marcus
Could be a bad alternator or regulator. Also if you recently changed an alternator you need to check if the alternator needs battery voltage to regulate. Especially if you are using a battery isolator like Victron ArgoFet. (The Victron Argofet has an Energize output that needs to be connected to the alternator D+ input) I changed from a wrong wired diode isolator to a properly wired Argofet on my KAD32 and the charging voltage increased from 13V to 14,5V.
Hi Ted, great videos, I have a KAD44 that doesn’t wake up at all. I have battery voltage on pin 30 in the key switch when I turn on the main battery switch. However, when I turn the key switch to wake up the EDC, the voltage drops to 0. I have checked all voltages in the relay box as well as the terminals on the side of the engine and the 7,5A fuse, all looks good, no corrosion, nobody’s been messing with it. Also checked the 8 pin connectors going to the helm, all good. I have the wiring diagrams, but not sure exactly how to trace the power to pin 30 in the key switch. If I take a separate lead with battery voltage to pin 30 in the key switch, all works well. Is there any typical splice or something else that you encountered regarding power to pin 30 in the key switch?
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 hi, I appreciate your offer, but it’s a twin engine and I tried everything to get a picture or just a look @ that plate, no chance without major boat surgery. But thank you anyway!
Good morning Ted, just finished watching your 2 videos on the EDC for the 44 KAMD engine. I found these videos very informative and the fact you use mock up stations really help in understanding how things work. My problem is with a 2003 vessel with twin Volvo Penta 300 KAMD engines. When starting the motors I turn key to position 1 hold key button down for 3 seconds turn key to the start engine the green light does not come on for port engine. I wait a few minutes and repeat normally after 3 or 4 tries the motor starts. Once started the boat runs fine. Any tips for this issue or would I start by going through the procedure in your videos? Thanks, john
I would try recalibrating the control to see if that resets the value. Being an intermittent you can also see if the main relay is the issue (replace it) which helps supply voltage to the push button panel.
Good morning Ted, nice and informative video! I am developing a brand new EDC for TAMD and KAD/KAMD engines, which solves many issues of the original one. Do you think there is a market for this product? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thank you.
I have been chasing an intermittent problem on the port side of a boat with twin 2002 Volvo TAMD73P-EDC engines for the last few seasons. Now, consistently the port side will turn over once and cut out. If I leave the ignition switch on I can jump the starter and run the engine fine. I have verified continuity of the harness from the Junction Box to the helm, swapped harnesses at the helm, and now looking at the EDC & harness in the engine room. I only have seen cannon plug style connectors throughout and not the 8pin ones as you've shown. That has me thinking there is an extension plug in-between the fly bridge helm and engine room... This video may have just helped me get to the bottom of the problem. Thank you for posting and sharing your knowledge sir.
@ecmo2007 glad it helps! I find that those 7 liters need a good "starting battery" with a CCA rating over 1000 amps. I've seen just that kind of issue due to low battery capacity
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 So to follow up.. Ted, this video really did help me find the issue after chasing it for 2-3 seasons. As suspected in my O.C. I found a cannon plug buried in the wire chase of the salon of the boat. (Not the new style connector you mentioned).. 3 of the contacts had backed out of the connector. One pin was to the alternator (causing me to chase low voltage as the issue) the second pin went to the EDC... My buddy called me a surgeon for figuring it out but truth be told, I gave you the credit sir. I don't think I would have found it without this video. I can't thank you enough.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956would it be advisable to replace the connectors I have an intermittent gear shift whist in neutral
@cobiaboats6316 there is a possible TSB on that. It's old of course but I believe I have it. Please email me at marinedoc01@yahoo.com so I can send it to you.
Hey Ted,
Thanks for the Video, i have those engines in my boat.😊
In the technical Database stay 3.59 liter.
We have had the problem, when we start the engines, the voltage go to far down so the edc had not enough to Funktion, even with a new starter battery.
So we decided to gave the edc an separate
Battery that voltage not go down in the moment that we use the starter.
But now i have to switch on the battery for the starter and the edc battery.
Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪 Marcus
Could be a bad alternator or regulator. Also if you recently changed an alternator you need to check if the alternator needs battery voltage to regulate. Especially if you are using a battery isolator like Victron ArgoFet. (The Victron Argofet has an Energize output that needs to be connected to the alternator D+ input) I changed from a wrong wired diode isolator to a properly wired Argofet on my KAD32 and the charging voltage increased from 13V to 14,5V.
Always really helpful video's thanks Ted👍👍
Nice job mate keep it up 👍
Hi Ted, great videos, I have a KAD44 that doesn’t wake up at all. I have battery voltage on pin 30 in the key switch when I turn on the main battery switch. However, when I turn the key switch to wake up the EDC, the voltage drops to 0. I have checked all voltages in the relay box as well as the terminals on the side of the engine and the 7,5A fuse, all looks good, no corrosion, nobody’s been messing with it. Also checked the 8 pin connectors going to the helm, all good. I have the wiring diagrams, but not sure exactly how to trace the power to pin 30 in the key switch. If I take a separate lead with battery voltage to pin 30 in the key switch, all works well. Is there any typical splice or something else that you encountered regarding power to pin 30 in the key switch?
@@alterschwede9953 please email me a picture of the engine ID tag with the serial # to marinedoc01@yahoo.com
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 hi, I appreciate your offer, but it’s a twin engine and I tried everything to get a picture or just a look @ that plate, no chance without major boat surgery. But thank you anyway!
Good morning Ted, just finished watching your 2 videos on the EDC for the 44 KAMD engine. I found these videos very informative and the fact you use mock up stations really help in understanding how things work. My problem is with a 2003 vessel with twin Volvo Penta 300 KAMD engines. When starting the motors I turn key to position 1 hold key button down for 3 seconds turn key to the start engine the green light does not come on for port engine. I wait a few minutes and repeat normally after 3 or 4 tries the motor starts. Once started the boat runs fine. Any tips for this issue or would I start by going through the procedure in your videos? Thanks, john
I would try recalibrating the control to see if that resets the value. Being an intermittent you can also see if the main relay is the issue (replace it) which helps supply voltage to the push button panel.
Hi sir hru ur a job ur gud person always really helpful vedio thanx Ted
Good morning Ted, nice and informative video! I am developing a brand new EDC for TAMD and KAD/KAMD engines, which solves many issues of the original one. Do you think there is a market for this product? Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thank you.
Love to find out more about this
its possible the conversion to next edc panel?
Hi valve adj TMD40A is it .016