Volvo Penta DIY - Full Marine Engine Service
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 เม.ย. 2023
- In this video I walk you through my annual DIY, full engine strive for our Volvo Penta D2-55, marine diesel engine.
Full Oil Change Video here: • DIY Marine Diesel Engi...
Volvo Penta Heat Exchanger Cleaning: • Overheating - Trouble...
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I am an old retired tech,military aircraft and owner of a boat repair shop. suggestions, look at the coolant hose behind the alternator belt, the paint is chipping and you cannot see the condition of the hose. I would change the hose just to make sure it won't fail at a bad time. (this never happens at the dock) Same for all the hoses. keep the old ones as spares if they are OK. Belt adjustments = 1/4 inch of deflection for each 6 inches of span. Too tight, bearing wear, too loose belt slip and overheating belt causing the belt to become hard and slick and slipping. With the water pump I change the screws with studs (home depot has stainless, probably 10/32 or 1/4X 28. I get aircraft wing nuts that are treated for anti rust and one wing is drilled for safety wire. when the plate is put back on you can put a non twisted safety wire (0.032 or even smaller) and not have to worry about loosening. The benefit is when the SHTF it is very easy and fast to cut the safety wire and take the plate off to put it back on with the boat rolling around and water coming out the studs will help you find them and put the plate back on. The wing nuts also allow you to fasten the plate without screwing around (pun intended) finding the hole to put the little common screws back on. A good wing nut is a "MS35426-30 aircraft type wing nut, about $9 for a bag of 5. ( they are all over the internet)All the pump plates I have dealt with are drilled the same and will go on any pattern, if not on yours put an arrow pointing up st speed installation. I don't know if the Perkins engine has a mass flow sensor right after the air filter but if it does always pull the two screws that hold it in and clean it with some mass air flow cleaner. the oil from the K&N filters tends to get carried into the intake and deposit on the MAF sensor tricking the computer. The same goes for cars. You did a very good service! I hope my little suggestions help you. Happy sailing.
Wow, thank you for taking the time to share your pearls of wisdom with us, yes that has been very helpful, not just for me, but no doubt for others looking to improve on their entry level skills in DIY maintenance.
Thank you again 🙏🏻☺️
El Robo, I like your ideas for studs and wingnuts, the Volvo/Perkins is an European engine so studs will most likely be metric, if you notice all the spanners (wrenches) he was using were all in mm. Fair winds. Sailing Cacique.
Question? I know this is off subject! What is the best way to get In to that industry? I am really interested in this career.
Just taking you up on your invitation to notice some things, looks like you may have a bit of diesel bug in your fuel tank, the black algae looking stuff in the primary filter. It's a good idea to put biocide in your tank each time you fill up to prevent the bug growing, and also keep your tanks as full as practicable to prevent condensation forming in the tanks. When you change the fuel filters, best to leave them empty, then use the primer pump at the engine to refill the system. The holes in the fuel injectors are very small and easily clogged by tiny particles of dirt. Adding fuel from a bottle is effectively adding unfiltered fuel into your system. Using the primer pump draws the fuel through the filters and stops any dirt entering. When you are using the extension with your socket rachet, use 2 hands and support the end of the rachet so your force is directed into turning the bolt / nut, using one hand the force is trying to tip the tool off the bolt or nut either upwards or downwards depending on whether you are loosening of tightening the fastener. Than can ruin the head if it slips off and you may end up having to use vice grips on it if it gets damaged enough.
Does the engine have hydraulic valve lash adjustment? If not then perhaps look into checking valve clearances periodically in case they tighten up. Keep up the good work :)
Great tips there Sir, cheers.
Love, love, love your spreadsheet - can only imagine how helpful that must be! Loved watching as always!
I really like your organized storage and the scheme to find stuff.
It’s really made the world of difference my stress levels when I need to find something 😂
Store your toilet spares in the toilet cupboard
Store your engine spares in or next the engine space
Rigging spares in cockpit locker.
I worked a few years on charter yachts as a lead boat engineer with very little space and we used the above system and it worked perfectly . Keep your tools somewhere very dry or they definitely will go rusty on a boat.
I find it far more exciting turning the boat upside down each time I’m looking for something there’s are always little treasures you find that you had originally forgotten about. But you do have a good system well played my good man 👌🏼
Excellent and informative as usual.
On the top off the fuel pump is a Phillips head screw that holds down a inlet screen. It prevents large particles from fouling the check valves in the pump. It can get clogged at the most inopportune times. It is worth checking when servicing. Oh and, More Hank!
Amazing, I never knew that, I’ll be sure to check it. Thank you for your help 🙏🏼😬
@@CadohaAdventuresty to you all for your great videos the information is great as in stages if buying a yacht same as your trident warrior to be fair so the information will serve me well
I hope Dom’s sock and underpants draw is arranged as neatly as his tool kit. These things are important in a force 10 gale.
Ha ha, I wouldn't say my bunk is military level room inspection worthy, but gradually we're becoming more ship shape, honest, Gov 😇
Just after I bought our boat we had a cooling problem, long story short the heat exchanger inlet was full old bits of impeller.
Tip - Fit a course strainer downstream of the water pump just in case the impeller falls apart. A very cheap preventative measure (and impeller anxiety) . I used to work on (very) big marine engines and this was the norm.
Excellent video! Thank you. This helps me know what i need to do
Really enjoyed that Dom. Nice work.👍. I ended up giving the K&N filter a miss. Much easier to just replace the air filter as required. And no oil residue on the MAF sensor worries, and those recharge kits get expensive too. Stay safe guys 🙏.
8:46 After chortling over how OCD but utterly practical the spreadsheet idea is, and now seeing the box for your impeller, I'll outdo you in OCD-ness and tell you that on my spreadsheet I'd have columns for the Part #, the Vendor, and the Cost! 🤣
Ha ha, then you, Sir are a better store master than I. I admit that I’m far from the most organised person ever, but I’m starting to see the appeal 😂😂
Hiya Cadoha,
Nice video; thank you both. I used to run a small fleet of generators mounted on trucks. 5 Perkins, 1 Penta and 2 Cummins marine engines on various Bedford, Layland and an artic trailer. Different Ford trucks for transporting the lighting equipment.
A diesel engine needs air and derv to run. Remove or constrict either, and you will have problems. Always carry extra fuel and air filters; you may never need them, but if you do and don't have them...
Other replaceable parts support this combustion, like the impeller. I would not count one spare as sufficient; at least two additions, preferably three. You may need to give a reserve to another yacht in distress. Belts, at least two extras. Sometimes faulty manufacture will cause the failure of the part after an annoyingly short amount of time. It does happen. A spare alternator and starter motor may be a good idea too. Yes, they fail, and if you don't notice a lack of charging...
Keep on with the very informative films, please.
Stay safe, Steve...
Well done Dom.
Thanks, feels good to save a few pennies where we can and more importantly get to know our way around the boats systems better. 🙏🏼😬
Amazing, Thank you
Nice tool kit! ratcheting box end wrenches will be worth the extra price in the long run!
You still have garden hoses connecting the engine sw pump to the filter, please replace that with proper class approved marine rubberhose, an overheated pump will melt the garden hose etc...
great episode. on my MV I have 2 large Volvo diesels and last year a new to me service engineers carried out service and he instructed me to only change the Fresh air intake filter once every 2 years. (previously this was every year)As a marine environment is generally very clean compared to a lorry. Perhaps on your case you may have belt dust to deal with.
I learned quite a bit, very interesting. The only suggestion I would make is to write the date on the boxes just incase one ot more of the spares is worth keeping.
Solid vid ! Thx
Your fuel in the filter looked incredibly dark which is why I prefer filter bowls that are see-through then you can monitor the clarity of the fuel coming from the tank. It may be time to do a shock treatment of your fuel tank (not that old Chesnut). I would also be tempted after the first few hours of running to drain some fuel from the filter and see if it's still as dark, maybe add a small length of hose to the drain point to make that easier.
I prefer to change oils at the end of the season rather than at the beginning, oil builds up contaminants with use mainly acids which can cause corrosion if left in a static engine all winter if I'm honest not a huge amount but still easily avoided.
That's a great shout. We actually have a 'Diesel Dipper' from Marine-16' which we use to gradually drain down the fuel tanks to burn the old fuel in our diesel heater. The Dipper also picks up any water and crud build up from the bottom of the tank and so hopefully the tanks are ready to receive fresh fuel when we leave next.
In an ideal world I would remove and replace both of our fuel tanks, but there's no way to remove them in one piece and thus not easy to put new ones in their place without a huge amount of work being done on Cadoha. It almost feels like the boat was built around the fuel tanks.
That’s reminded me I need to do an oil change and order some filters. I try to maintain a book on board of where things are but I forgot to factor in that my wife likes to tidy up and move things 😊. Like your system though, will try it on my iPad.
If you are looking for the oil change video, it’s in bin B5 with misc. engine parts.
Hi Dom - In my Grey Funnel Line days we used to keep a lot of our rubber based products in a dusting of French chalk. Great for many reasons but will extend the life of rubber significantly. Might not have a huge impact if rotating impeller every 12M but worth to keep in the knowledge in the back pocket. Also keep rubber away from chemical products like you had in B2. They can release "volatiles" which will also impact rubber in storage. Great to see a 5S covert!!!
convert
An awsome video as usual, thank you for providing such good content. Keep on producing videos. We also have the same engine and some maintanace ahead of us, maybe I willalso produce some howto's about parts you have not covered yet. We will see ;-)
Hi ! Very interesting ! I'd like to say that the alternator belt does not need to be changed every year, according to Volvo Service Protocol Maintenance, but 48 months / 600 h. In my experience, a brand new alternator belt was defective and started to degrade - losing material from the grooves - at only 40-50 hours, but never broke even if it was forcedly used for ... 30 more hours (no spare available ...) ! So, you have to inspect it frequently and change it if you find a little wear. kind regards.
Hi Dom. I know you did the oil change in a previous video, but when I change the oil on my Diesel engine (Car), I always use an Engine flush to ensure all particles are flushed through the system. Although I note you don't get all the old oil out of the engine due to the way you extract the oil via a pump. Anyhoo, great stuff.
Appreciate that, Brian, although given how our sump is set up, how would you be able to ensure that you could get all of the ‘flush’ out of the engine and would it be damaging if any was missed?
I also made a similar sheet to organize my spares.
Love it! I can't believe I waited this long to get at least semi-organised.
You have Diesel Bug... in a healthy system the filters are a lot cleaner.... I have never had to clean a filter bowl in 23yrs. You might want to clean your tanks and lines. A glass bowl filter might help you see the filter blinding up.
As we have cokme to expect a competent easily understood video,. In the interests of sharing I noticed several of your cooling hoses have been painted, that in my opinion is cause for replacement they are not meant to be painted and the paint could cause premature failure,
cheers Moose
In that case then I think this winter could see a new selection of hoses as the coolant will be due for changing then too 🙏🏼😬
Appreciate you taking the time as this is really where I learn so much.
The comments section on TH-cam has been my mid-life university course. 😬😬😂
hello i suggest inspecting / replacing the coolant hoses also , i was recently on a delivery and one of the hoses split open , lost all coolant and overheated in a busy channel !
I would check the aux belt adjustment in the manual that looked a bit tight to me so may damage the water pump and alt bearings. I think you had it right then you over tightened with the socket when you did up the nuts and bolts.
Appreciate that, looking back that was a tad tighter than normal. Appreciate the heads up 🙏🏼☺️
Changing out your coolant and any zinc anodes in your coolant system.
The impellor you took out wasn't fitted correctly as a couple of the vanes were flipped the opposite way , when you fit a new one you should rotate it in the direction it runs so all the vanes are the same way
Your alternator drive belt is a "Polly-Vee" and they last much longer than the old V-Belts. The V-Belts wore out quickly due to the long high draw on the Alternator to charge the house battery, hence the chance to Poly. Yours looked fine, I would have left it. Also, they do not need such high tension, over tensioning just wears out the bearings.
Same with the pump impellor, yours passed inspection. You can get a puller for them, it looks like 3 steel rods, nurlled over. Two screw drivers risks damaging the housing and will damage the impellor.
Appreciate that, Jonathan, the belt was done up a tad tighter than usual and I've backed it off now after some other keen eyed mechanics echoed your sentiments.
Appreciate you taking the time to help us get better though, this right here is where I learn the most 🙏🏻☺️
Great maintenance video ! In your spreadsheet , do you indicate how many spares you have and whether the spare is 'new' or 'used' ?
Also , regarding keeping the used parts as a spare , is there a need to coat them with silicone spray or grease to keep them pliable or from rusting ?
Yes the spread sheet has a column for amount of units we have, if that's something we feel is important for that particular item, as is the case with say filters.
I'm not at all naturally organised, but taking the time to create this simple system has already made the world of difference to life in board.
Another good video. Fuel in filter looked ver dirty. May be worth checking bottom of tank. Also when were the valve clearances and head bolt tensions checked. Other things are anodes in the engine and gearbox. Also gearbox oil.
Thanks for the tips!
The valve clearance was done last year. Believe it or not the D2-55 doesn’t actually have any engine anodes?!
The head bolt tension checks? Now that I haven’t done, so thank you for bringing that to my attention, I appreciate it 🙏🏼😊
Don't forget the heat exchanger !!
This might seem picky, but I noted when you washed out the air filter, you washed it into the sea, next to the jetty. Is this a responsible thing to do? I appreciate it's not pristine water and you didn't use that much, but thought I'd mention it. A nice video to watch and thank you
That’s fair. I guess in my head it was mostly dust particles I was cleaning out, but I’ll be sure to use a container next time all the same.
Consider me reprimanded 🙏🏼🥹🙏🏼
Yeah, I thought that too. Living in a fishing village as i do, I see a lot stuff going in the ocean that shouldn't. I think I'd do it over a plastic tubby which I'd then pour down a sink on land, as you know then that, being in the UK, it will most likely be treated.
I’ve just checked the price of a Speedseal water pump cover plate. It’s considerably more than when I fitted mine to a Yanmar 2YM15 fifteen years ago but it makes accessing the impeller much easier and it’s virtually impossible to drop things in the bilge. Have you thought about getting one ?
They are no longer in business
Something I didn't see you do that I would have done is , check the top pully on your Alternator belt , at least there would be bearings on it ,, on a Perkins in a tractor it would be a water pump ,, I don't know about Marine applications
You know I’ve never done that or even thought about it, so thanks for the heads up there, Russell 🙏🏼😬
I noticed when you removed the impeller cover that some of the rubber blades were facing different directions. When installing a new impeller it is better, if not required the all rubber blades should be facing the same direction for most efficient operation. Use a water tolerant lubricant to lubricate the blades and the inside of the pump housing and turn the impeller the correct direction until all of the blades are cooperation and facing the same direction prior to pushing it deep into the housing. More water is better.
The impeller blades soon orientate themselves. So never a problem. Like for soon; read in the first part of the first rotation.
@@stephencoster9532 if they had orientated themselves it wouldn't have been like that on removal
After tightening the belt 4:15 try twisting it both ways,
It shouldn’t go bast 90 degrees ether twist..!! Then it’s tight enough. 😎👍✅
Perfect, thanks for the tip, Anna 👍🏽😊
5:33 The impeller you took out did not look right. It shouldn't have fins facing in different directions like that. Looks like it was incorrectly seated when you put it in. You should rotate it in until it reaches the splines.
Hi guys, do you change the gearbox oil? This is something I have always done yearly as it often gets forgotten about.
Do you mean the oil in the sail drive? If so yes we also change that every year when we get lifted out. 😬🙏🏼
How many hours did you run the engine for last year ?
We put 107 hours on the clock last year.
Zinc Anodes
Coolant
Hoses and Jubilee clips
볼보 해수 펌프 축 고무링 자주 고장이 문제가 많습니다 엔진속 해수 물이 들어가며 오일 휠타 교환에 찐땀 납니다
What about the engine Anodes lots have them fitted!
I always wondered about that, believe it or not a Volvo Penta D2-55 doesn't have any!? 😳
독일 엔진 모방한 대우 엔진 기름 절감 8기통 부터 깡통소리 대동 일본 양산엔진 동인마린 엔진 잘사용 하면 5년 사용하면 볼링 하여야 하며 외국엔진 볼보 10년도 크덕없이 사용합니다
Great video but it looks like your old impeller came out with a vane or two facing the wrong way. If this is the case ensure that you twist and push the impeller into place so that all the vanes are following the direction of the raw water pump. Lots of other videos showing this.
Hey Andrew, all the splines were still attached, but a couple of them were bent over I'm guessing from where they've been stationary for a few months in the water pump?
@@CadohaAdventures, the vanes orientate themselves in the first part of the first rotation; don't worry about them. Some people fix on this as a major problem, but it isn't.
Can you help me I have a Volvo Pentecost D2 55
Somehow I have go I believe to be sea water mixed in with my oil how could this hapen
Seals on the raw water pump would be the first thing to check.
I’m not a mechanic, I really am just a boat owner who’s trying to save a few pennies here and there tackling some maintenance jobs myself, but could water getting into your engine oil be a head gasket issue?
Either way I can’t imagine the salt water is going to do the engine any good and if it was me then I’d be consulting a reputable mechanic/ technician before too much more damage can be done.
Good luck 🙏🏼
Then pressure test the coolant circuit. You will need to buy a pump for this but that will be cheaper the a visit from a marine engineer.
could be the raw water anti siphon valve is faulty and is allowing sea water to flow back down your exhaust
Unlikely to be head gasket Dom, if it really is sea water as the guy said. Head gasket would be coolant/oil mix.
Well done Cadoha, but if I could give an advice, change those bloody perforated hose clamps, these are known to fail with bad consequences for your cooling system…
Thanks, Bart, what clamps would you suggest?
@@CadohaAdventures best is to use A4 (rvs316)clamps with pressed-in ribbles. Those are much more reliable…
@@CadohaAdventuresI always used the type with the teeth on the strap raised. Much more metal before failure.
Did I miss you putting back the impeller ?and why on earth would you spray Salt off on the water pump belt and I think you sprayed it on some wires as well.
On the air filter instructions ,they are very easy to read, all you do is hold your camera phone up to read it on Google translator and they you go.
I have never seen any one wet an air filter and the put a spray of oil on the filter. Buy doing this you are making sure you pick up all the dirt in the air going into your engine.
You know I've only just realised that I didn't include the footage on me putting the new impeller in?! 😳
As for the salt off, I spray it anywhere where salt water may have splashed up from the impeller change and it's seemed to have helped kept the engine from getting as badly corroded as I've seen some over the years, that's my hope anyway, although always open to other suggestions.
The air filter kit was exactly that, a specific kit for cleaning the air filter. Are you saying that you wouldn't use that particular kit?
@@CadohaAdventures I just saying I never seen a kit like it but different manufacturers may do things different ways.
It just I never seen it before or have never seen any one on TH-cam do it that way.
B1, B4 you B2 tired! your issue isnt lack or organization, its lack of memory mate! eheheh im joking, thats a neat system
In all fairness I have been hit in the head a decent amount through my life, so my memory likely isn’t anywhere near as good as it should be 😵💫🥹😬
@@CadohaAdventures oh i relate to that. things ive hit an others that hit me.....
Just check belt is in the proper place on the alternator .. it's a bit odd on that engine .. can't quite see on the vid. .. check the manual
Soz .. I might be wrong .. I thought you had a D2-40 .. but its a 55 - so it may be ok
It seems to be ok, I’ve had it running a few times since making this video and nothing out of the ordinary has popped up.
Appreciate you taking the time to give me a heads up though, cheers 🙏🏼
🤭Only just noticed this "CArly, DOm & HAnk" Was this by chance, or you had the boat renamed.?
It’s not a coincidence, no, we named the boat Cadoha for that reason. Well spotted 👍🏽😬
"How rude." that the instructions are not in English? What century were you born in, Dom?
I'd be using gloves, diesel stinks! 😊
Ha ha, yes that’s fair 😬😇
a bit OTT changing the alternator belt every year. if they did that on your car when serviced you would complain "why". I would.
I guess I’m just paranoid about the engine maintenance which likely reflects more about my confidence as a sailor than my keenness as a mechanic 👨🔧 😬😂
Why don’t you replace your pistons also every year?? What is it throws a ring or crack?
@gregk1179 You're a troll.
Also, you never ever prime the filter that way… how clean is your diesel? You just left a quart of trash in your fuel system.
Hey Greg, thanks for chiming in. How would you recommend going about priming the fuel system? 🙏🏼😬
@@CadohaAdventures I had the same question but @gregk1179 apparently prefers to troll. Helpful video, thank you!
You are waisting your money on the alternator belt every year. Mine is 18 years old and I’m
Just replacing it. It has belts and very strong. Buy a brand new one and keep it as a spare.