Motorcycle Tire Change at Home - Step-by-Step Guide
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2022
- How to replace motorcycle tires at home, demonstrated on a 2016 Honda CBR500R including tool sizes and torque specs.
NOTE:
• If having trouble getting the bead to seal on the new tire, use lots of soapy water, remove the valve core, and bounce the tire as you inflate it with an air compressor.
• Use brake cleaner on your rotors if they get contaminated beyond what you can wipe off.
• Please recycle your old tires at your local motorcycle or automotive store.
LINKS:
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Front Tire: amzn.to/3SqoAIY
Rear Tire: amzn.to/3C7kf84
Wheel balancing beads: amzn.to/3Rm8WNO
Motion Pro tire levers: amzn.to/3fxpLs8
Motion Pro rim protectors: amzn.to/3CsyLb3
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Air compressor: amzn.to/38XZXSA
Tire inflator with gauge: amzn.to/3CpUTT2
Bench vise: amzn.to/3y0wSiO
Tire irons used in video: amzn.to/3E1aYjv
Breaker bar: amzn.to/3Hqibsl
Torque wrench (3/8” drive): amzn.to/3ooqxJl
Torque wrench (1/2” drive): amzn.to/3HqCZjq
Socket wrench set: amzn.to/3EP9kBW
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TOOLS AND SUPPLIES USED:
• Breaker bar
• A couple torque wrenches
• A couple socket wrenches
• A couple socket extensions
• 24mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 17mm hex bit socket
• 19mm wrench
• A set of tire levers
• Flat head screwdriver
• Valve core remover
• Plastic mallet
• Air compressor
• Bench vise
• Gloves
• Dish soap
• A spray bottle
• Shop towels
• Waterproof grease
• Rim protectors
• Broom and dustpan
• A couple rags
• Some tape
• Plastic bowl
• Stool
• A light
• Motorcycle stands
• And some cardboard to work on
Music not provided by TH-cam:
“Song E01” by Seth Schneider
sethds93@gmail.com
**This video description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and make a purchase, I'll receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. This helps support the channel and allows me to continue making videos like this.
*Disclaimer*
Due to the litigious world we live in, I have to include this statement:
I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. The creator of this content assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not the creator of this content. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Great job 👍
Thanks dude!
Nice video. Been there too, since then I give it to a friend at a bike shop who mounts them for a tenner. Advise for the future, you can remove the rear sprocket with hub by just pulling on it. Also unbolting the wheel speed sensors, think it's an 8mm, makes sure to not mangle them up.
I need a friend like that but I'm slowly becoming him, myself. Thanks for the tips, I had no idea you could just pull that out. Good idea with the speed sensors too.
Great video.
Thanks! I almost scrapped the footage all together. Glad you like it.
You could use your Jeep and a piece of lumber to break the bead. Helps to have a buddy, but just lay the board on the wheel in the correct spot then drive your jeep onto it.
Or, get your jeep near-ish to a load bearing surface like a wall stud and use a bottle-jack braced against the jeep wheel to squeeze the tire against the stud. Basically you are making a vice with your Jeep and a wall.
You can also use a second motorcycle by using the side stand, or if you have the strength (or a friend) you can use the motorcycle you took the wheel off of.
Lots of creative ways to break a bead.
Didn't hear you mention to grease the axles (maybe I missed it?), but I do see they're greased from the video.
FYI I also grease the threads, it helps prevent wear from repeated use, but be aware if your manual does not specify to do this you must REDUCE the torque spec by about 20% since lubricated threads have less friction to overcome. My Ducati calls for almost 140ft/lbs of torque on the rear axle, which required I get one of those massive 4-foot long torque wrenches, and it always kind of sketches me out when torquing because I apply so much force I compress the suspension when doing it! With greased threads I only set it to 110ftlbs, however, which is slightly more manageable.
Good choice on the tires. The Michelin Road series is easily the best sport-touring tire on the market. They have a really soft carcass compared to most so heating the tire prior to install isn't all that necessary, they're quite flexible, especially compared to the Pirellis you took off.
Those are some really good ideas for breaking the bead! Now that I think about it, I think my Hi-Lift jack can be inverted so it compresses, which might also work for this.
I greased the axles when I greased the wheel collars and I did briefly mention it. There are so many things to cover in a video this long, it's hard to make all the info stand out. Interesting tip on greasing the threads. I understand how that changes the torque value - I've seen wheel hub lugs that were stretched because of either some type of lube or anti-seize on the threads. I don't think that's an issue with the 500R axle but you could end up crushing the swingarm, I bet.
The tires have been really great so far. No complaints at all, and I really like how much visible tread there is without seeming to weigh down the bike. Definitely a top-tier touring tire! I think you are right about not needing to heat them up, too. They slipped onto the rims very easily.
Hi! Where can I get that rear tire hugger you have on your Honda cbr500r?
There's a link to it in the description. Best one I could find for this bike!
Hello! Please tell me, if smaller rear wheel spacer is installed on the sprocket side? Best regards, Arek from Poland
Install them the way I did in the video and you'll be fine.
Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I will do it this way. You do a great job 👍👍👍
Thank you!
I really appreciate this video.
I'm going to pay someone else to do it....
It's a lot easier that way. I will probably do it myself again next time but skip all the steps that didn't work.
The red dot on the tire and valve of rim must be together
Yes, but there are no dots on these tires. Haven't had any balancing issues.
@@EndlessMoneyPits οκ
Couple things you really should do differently in the future mate.
Firstly when you're using an extension on a socket you must always hold/support the head of the ratchet/power bar to prevent it from applying force on an angle that could snap the heads off bolts or just slip off the bolt entirely.
Second thing is standing on the wheel like you were with the sprocket still on the rim I'd say there's a 90% chance you've bent the sprocket that could cause vibration or difficulty aligning and tensioning the chain, always remove your sprocket/hub and check your cush drive rubbers have grease on them while you're in there.
Third, most Michelin tyres don't have the dot you mentioned, they have a barcode on the bead that should lineup with the valve.
I always make a chalk line on the tyre where this is as once the tyre is on the rim you can't see it.
One other thing I personally do is remove the calipers and abs sensors first.
This prevents and risk of the calipers hitting the wheel and chipping the paint or when reinstalling the wheel its not uncommon to hit the rotor on the sensors.
As these are very expensive it just avoids the risk.
When hammering in the axles (normally a very light tap with a rubber hammer is all you need) please be very careful the threaded end isn't catching on anything as this will damage the threads very easily.
I'm glad you re greased the axles and spacers, makes the job easier next time and prevents water and salt etc getting to the bearings.
@@cartertwowheels3358 Hey there, I appreciate the input but have to disagree with and clarify a few things.
You can't always have two hands on a wrench, but you can control the way you hold it and the forces you put on it. Someone with very little experience would be more likely to break something, so it's good to let people know. I haven't snapped a bolt since I was a kid except for a couple that were rusted through.
These bikes come with steel sprockets. They aren't going to bend from what I was doing. Aftermarket aluminum sprockets are much more delicate but I don't think that is a common mod on the 500R. I could be wrong, but there's not much to gain from putting an aluminum sprocket on these bikes so I assumed it was not common, but I agree it is worth mentioning.
The axle threads are also steel, so with all the weight off the bike the forces just aren't there to damage the threads if you tap it straight out.
I had never heard that tip about the barcode on Michelin tires. I don't remember if these had a barcode since I wasn't looking for that, but that's really good to know for the future. Fortunately, I haven't had any balancing issues with these new tires after 1,000+ miles.
Removing the ABS sensors is something I hadn't thought of but I also didn't notice them getting in the way. I just had trouble with the brake calipers. They seemed to tighten up just enough to keep the rotors from fitting even though I hadn't touched the brakes. I had the wheels off for a really long time since I was filming, so I think it was probably due to temperature fluctuations.
Thanks again for the advice. I should be more clear about some of those concerns for people who really don't know what they're doing yet.
@@cartertwowheels3358 I have heard the barcode thing about Michelins, but after mounting between hundreds and thousands of Michelin tires I can say with confidence that it doesn't matter. I have seen no discernible advantage in balancing whether mounting with the barcode or not. In general Michelins balance fairly well anyway, it's rare I have to balance with more than an ounce, extra rare if it needs 2oz or more, but that's usually due to the WHEEL instead of the tire.
Sprockets are a lot more resilient than you describe as well. While I'll agree you should remove the sprocket before the job to avoid any damage, it takes a lot of force to bend the sprockets. They are an appropriate hardness to withstand up to hundreds of ft/lbs of torque pulling on them, they'll hold up to an adult standing on them.
Same with the axle, they are a specific hardness to handle the weight and stresses of being an axle, it would be difficult to damage the threads. It can be done, and care should be taken, but it's not like they're made of chinesium or anything.
Soap and aluminum wheels don't mix. Will cause corrosion.
The wheels aren't bare aluminum. They are painted or possibly powder coated, I'm not sure.
Correction, the 5 year tire life is sell by date to the wholesaler/retailer not the life of the tire. The actual life of the tire becomes five years after you purchase it. So a tire can be 10 years from the sell by date.
There's a lot of different opinions about that, I found. That's why I wrote "opinion*" on the screen when I said it. Also, motorcycle tires should be changed more often than car tires for added safety. What is the official source you go by?
@@EndlessMoneyPits From what I found on the internet. I doubt a tire only has a shelf live of months when it is not exposed to UV, weather, temperatures, wear and pressure. Different tires have different compounds raises another question. . Motorcycle tires are suggested to have a life span of ten years, but their rubber compounds are softer then vehicle tires for grip the roads as you not the lean into tires. Their shape is also rounded a bit so the tire continues to grip the road as the biker counter steers into a turn causing the motorcycle to lean.
To quote Michelin directly, "Tires aren't bananas, they stay fresh," however like bananas their freshness duration is dependent on the conditions of storage. I don't think I'd trust a 2 year old tire that's been sitting out in the Arizona sunshine the whole time but a 10 year old tire in climate controlled conditions would probably be ok. Of course it's always end-user discretion, but the important thing is to be educated on the how and why, not just the what.
Socket wrenches? Ratchets
False, but a common mistake. Google summarizer explains it well:
A socket wrench is a tool that makes it easier to rotate nuts and bolts than a regular wrench. Its ratcheting feature keeps the wrench in place on the bolt and removes the need to reinsert it after each turn. Ratchets are distinguished from other wrenches because their handles can be repositioned without letting go of the fastener, something traditional wrenches cannot do. The combination of socket and ratchet allows you to turn a nut or bolt without repositioning the tool on the fastener, making the work quicker. Socket wrenches are mainly used to tighten bolts and nuts in very narrow places or bolts or nuts in deep places. Ratcheting wrenches can provide access to fasteners where sockets cannot fit, but they don't work on as many fastener locations as sockets because of increased bulk directly adjacent to the fastener head.
Ahhh yes I’m only out a 1000 bucks after I buy everything your using smh
You are at the great crossroads. Are you going to be the man that has tools, or pay the man that has tools?
FFS a breaker bar, socket set and some stands doesn't count 1000USD