Excellent video... I'm just about to service my D1-20! which is 3 years old. I let Volvo do the first two services but I've decided to do this one myself! The MDI failure does worry me a bit! What age was your engine when the MDI failed? What was your symptoms when it failed? many thanks, Paul
I think the MDI can fail either one of two ways, your engine will suddenly cut out because the stop solenoid gets a stop signal from the MDI even though you didnt press anything, (if this happens you can disconnect the stop solenoid and restart it), or more commonly you cant turn the engine off from the helm and have to manually switch it off with the "yellow" lever, but at least that failure dont put you in danger. Our engine was about 14months old when it failed, however Volvo have since done a recall regardless of warrantees (i think) so pop your engine number into this website here; www.volvopenta.com/marineleisure/en-en/for-owners/your-engine/recall-information.html enter your engine serial number and if your engine is effected you can book in to have it replaced free of charge :) hopefully that helps.
I operate a D1-13 and have twice experienced overheating. Both times while motor sailing on a port tack. Engine hours @ 170. I have ordered a new thermostat but before I install that I will raise the expansion tank like you did here. Glad I saw you video on the topic of overheating. Thanks
Only an observation ...... you poured what could be dirty unfiltered diesel into your new filter. If you wanted to save that little bit, it might have been better to go into the tank filler and then get re-filtered. Also, you used a smear of dirty old oil to lubricate your new oil filter, new oil would have been better. Also, dont waste resources on oil mats, just use an old rag. And to get the oil level to "settle" you should have run the engine for 2 mins and let settle for 1 min after....so that it fills the new filter etc. Then top up to the dipstick mark. You could install some LED battery lights inside the engine bay, saves holding a torch and working 1 handed. Good effort overall and well done, because it really is not difficult.
Personally I wouldn’t put fuel from the old filter into the new filter and I’d use fresh oil to lubricate the seal. Also use the glycerine lubricant for the impeller and i give the impeller cover a quick lap on some very fine wet and dry to ensure any bits of the gasket stuck to it are removed. 👍
Hi guys, when I change an impeller I put a smear of Vaseline on the inside of the housing just in case, when you start, the inside of the impeller chamber is dry and may tear a fin off the impeller. A bit of lube wont hurt. Great videos......
Excellent video thank you. We experience the same problem with overhiting, same symptoms after wavy sailing, so planing to apply your fix too. I can see in comments it works for you. We have another issue there, it looks the coolant disappears and we have to refill it quite often, but no sign of any leakage, no signs of the coolant in the oil, nothing. We refill the coolant and keep it over the max even, we noticed it helps a bit with the overhiting issue, which may prove your theory as well, even if you proved it already 😉
Impeller COVER should be marked with WITNESS LINE to return the cover to the EXACT position it was removed. Line on COVER to ADJACENT BODY. The cover is quite thin and WILL WARP and cause a leak if not properly aligned.
I recently got a sailboat that has a Volvo penta Md2b. The previous owner had the engine running just fine when he owned it, but it hadn’t been ran in 4 or 5 years. After months of struggling to figure out why it wouldn’t start I figured out he had installed a timer. That definitely explained some of the problems I was having. But I still am struggling to get it started and keep it running. I have looked over several things including; rebuilding the high and low pressure pumps, I’m pretty positive the fuel is getting to the injectors. It is also super hard to hand crank. I am now working on the electrical system. I am hoping someone out there has some knowledge of this engine and it’s electrical system and is willing to maybe give me a few pointers. Thank you, from a couple trying to go boating;)
Have a look on the Volvo site - www.volvopenta.com/marinecommercial/en-en/parts-service/your-engine/manuals---handbooks.html Enter your serial number and you can download the exact manual and electrical drawings for your engine. I’m not familiar with the Md2b but the electrical side of most boat engines is pretty simple and you should be able to find the start solenoid so you don’t have to hand crack it :) good luck!
Hi I've been enjoying your videos the one about your DIY ATN tacker is a particular favourite. You might want to consider mounting the coolant reservoir on the engine bay wall as you first thought as I believe that the D1-20 has an aluminium alloy block. As a result, I would be concerned about galvanic corrosion between the bolts, bracket and the engine.
Derrick Jennings good shout, the bracket is made from aluminium but the bolts are indeed stainless so I’ll do a bit of research there and maybe use insulating washers, I may even paint match the engine colour and paint the bracket for further protection to isolate them
I did not see you change the fuel prefilter; do you not have one? I recently bought a boat, an old one, with literally no acces to the fuel tank, but had to go sailing. Fortunatelly the previous owner left me a few spare parts including filters. I had to change the prefilter/water separator twice, due to the gunk from the fuel tank.
Hi Guys, just a few things that i do when servicing my d1-20 ( also on a bav 30 ) #1 i remove the lower step to get proper access to the engine, it makes life a lot easier for changing the impeller #2 i close the fuel supply in the heads then on the primary filter under the aft berth i open the bleed screw and start the engine, this then empties the line of fuel so no mess in the aft cabin, on the filter at the lift pump i cut a 2ltr bottle in half and use the bottom part to slide under the filter so it catches any fuel and the filter saving any mess. But just out of curiosity did you use a oil filter with a relief valve fitted inside? Keep up the good work guys .
Yes the plastic bag was not the easiest to catch diesel in! Good idea thanks. Be interesting to know if you have experienced overheating in heavy seas in your d1-20? Or have you already moved the coolant tank?
Cactus Sailing, no my header tank is still in the original place but have seen and been looking into placing it up higher on the bulkhead, but bear in mind that the fresh water system is circuited from a lower point than either the header tank or the heat exchanger so really all placing the tank up higher will just increase the hydrostatic pressure but I hope this works for you.
Great job. HAving the same boat, engine and problem, I will do the same next time I do the engine service. Could you tell if the lifting is enought? could you share the measures of the mounting plate you designed to lift the coolant deposit? thanks
Yes it’s worked well so far and we haven’t had any issues since raising it, I can remember cutting a “L” shape from a 6mm 150mm x 150mm aluminium plate I think I did a drawing on our Patreon page with the exact measurements. Any higher than 150mm then the tank will touch the companionway steps, but the original hoses fit!
Hey guys, thanks for this tech video. Wondering: did the solution with the lifted expansion tank work? Good thinking there 👍 Enjoying your videos and hope you will be sailing soon again 😃
Not too sure yet, it works fine of course, but it only ever used to overheat if sailing to windward on a port tack or in a large swell, the few chances we got to sail before lockdown we never had any rough weather to test it properly. I’m fairly confident it will work but I will update once I know more!
Thank you for this video. I’ve got the same boat and engine so this I perfect for me! You guys seem fluent in engines which I am far from, so I have a question. When we bought our boat (fall 2020) the engine room was spotless. After just one summer of sailing there is a fair bit of black soot all over the engine and the walls. Is this normal or is something wrong?
Black soot could either be a tight belt and it’s belt dust or, you have a leak in the dry exhaust system somewhere, should be sootier where the leak is. But black dust on the engine is not normal, good luck 🤞
I have a d1-20 from 2007 w/ 1100hours on the clock. Now I have exhaust spitting out from the coolant reservoar. So Probably the head or head gasket is done for. Will make a video on it ! :)
@@CactusSailing Thanks! Just found a big hole in the exhaustmanifold/ heat exchanger, so now I just have to drain all the water out and replace the oil and parts :D $$$
Our alarm goes off and the overheating symbol comes on. We have done everything, to no avail, except replace the thermostat but, our schematic doesn't show us where it is and where we thought it was, wasn't where it is. we have the D1-20. help anyone?
Can’t post a picture on here, but if you google d1-20 workshop manual it will help identify where you need to look, thermostats all look similar. You can always just put the thermostat in boiling water once it’s out the housing to see if it opens, saves swapping out good parts needlessly. Could just be something simple like a dirty heat exchanger, or if it’s happening when you heel over etc could be like ours in the video. It’s not really something you can diagnose remotely
the first 5 mins of the video i move the coolant tank up and explain why i thought this was the cause of our overheating issue, of course, overheating can be caused by many things, but this was what was causing ours. hopefully you find what's causing yours.👍
Excellent video... I'm just about to service my D1-20! which is 3 years old. I let Volvo do the first two services but I've decided to do this one myself! The MDI failure does worry me a bit! What age was your engine when the MDI failed? What was your symptoms when it failed? many thanks, Paul
I think the MDI can fail either one of two ways, your engine will suddenly cut out because the stop solenoid gets a stop signal from the MDI even though you didnt press anything, (if this happens you can disconnect the stop solenoid and restart it), or more commonly you cant turn the engine off from the helm and have to manually switch it off with the "yellow" lever, but at least that failure dont put you in danger.
Our engine was about 14months old when it failed, however Volvo have since done a recall regardless of warrantees (i think) so pop your engine number into this website here; www.volvopenta.com/marineleisure/en-en/for-owners/your-engine/recall-information.html enter your engine serial number and if your engine is effected you can book in to have it replaced free of charge :) hopefully that helps.
I operate a D1-13 and have twice experienced overheating. Both times while motor sailing on a port tack. Engine hours @ 170. I have ordered a new thermostat but before I install that I will raise the expansion tank like you did here. Glad I saw you video on the topic of overheating. Thanks
Only an observation ...... you poured what could be dirty unfiltered diesel into your new filter. If you wanted to save that little bit, it might have been better to go into the tank filler and then get re-filtered. Also, you used a smear of dirty old oil to lubricate your new oil filter, new oil would have been better. Also, dont waste resources on oil mats, just use an old rag. And to get the oil level to "settle" you should have run the engine for 2 mins and let settle for 1 min after....so that it fills the new filter etc. Then top up to the dipstick mark. You could install some LED battery lights inside the engine bay, saves holding a torch and working 1 handed. Good effort overall and well done, because it really is not difficult.
Personally I wouldn’t put fuel from the old filter into the new filter and I’d use fresh oil to lubricate the seal. Also use the glycerine lubricant for the impeller and i give the impeller cover a quick lap on some very fine wet and dry to ensure any bits of the gasket stuck to it are removed. 👍
Hi guys, when I change an impeller I put a smear of Vaseline on the inside of the housing just in case, when you start, the inside of the impeller chamber is dry and may tear a fin off the impeller. A bit of lube wont hurt. Great videos......
KY jelly works well too ! Apply generously!
This is the best 'real life' engine servicing video I'm aware of on YT. Thanks a lot
Excellent video thank you. We experience the same problem with overhiting, same symptoms after wavy sailing, so planing to apply your fix too. I can see in comments it works for you. We have another issue there, it looks the coolant disappears and we have to refill it quite often, but no sign of any leakage, no signs of the coolant in the oil, nothing. We refill the coolant and keep it over the max even, we noticed it helps a bit with the overhiting issue, which may prove your theory as well, even if you proved it already 😉
Pity we did not have better view of the engine but well done on the job!
Impeller COVER should be marked with WITNESS LINE to return the cover to the EXACT position it was removed. Line on COVER to ADJACENT BODY.
The cover is quite thin and WILL WARP and cause a leak if not properly aligned.
Our cover has a flat bottom and asymmetrical design so there is no getting it wrong
I recently got a sailboat that has a Volvo penta Md2b. The previous owner had the engine running just fine when he owned it, but it hadn’t been ran in 4 or 5 years. After months of struggling to figure out why it wouldn’t start I figured out he had installed a timer. That definitely explained some of the problems I was having. But I still am struggling to get it started and keep it running. I have looked over several things including; rebuilding the high and low pressure pumps, I’m pretty positive the fuel is getting to the injectors. It is also super hard to hand crank. I am now working on the electrical system. I am hoping someone out there has some knowledge of this engine and it’s electrical system and is willing to maybe give me a few pointers. Thank you, from a couple trying to go boating;)
Have a look on the Volvo site - www.volvopenta.com/marinecommercial/en-en/parts-service/your-engine/manuals---handbooks.html
Enter your serial number and you can download the exact manual and electrical drawings for your engine. I’m not familiar with the Md2b but the electrical side of most boat engines is pretty simple and you should be able to find the start solenoid so you don’t have to hand crack it :) good luck!
Hi I've been enjoying your videos the one about your DIY ATN tacker is a particular favourite. You might want to consider mounting the coolant reservoir on the engine bay wall as you first thought as I believe that the D1-20 has an aluminium alloy block. As a result, I would be concerned about galvanic corrosion between the bolts, bracket and the engine.
Derrick Jennings good shout, the bracket is made from aluminium but the bolts are indeed stainless so I’ll do a bit of research there and maybe use insulating washers, I may even paint match the engine colour and paint the bracket for further protection to isolate them
Remember good old copper.
I did not see you change the fuel prefilter; do you not have one? I recently bought a boat, an old one, with literally no acces to the fuel tank, but had to go sailing. Fortunatelly the previous owner left me a few spare parts including filters. I had to change the prefilter/water separator twice, due to the gunk from the fuel tank.
Hi Guys, just a few things that i do when servicing my d1-20 ( also on a bav 30 ) #1 i remove the lower step to get proper access to the engine, it makes life a lot easier for changing the impeller #2 i close the fuel supply in the heads then on the primary filter under the aft berth i open the bleed screw and start the engine, this then empties the line of fuel so no mess in the aft cabin, on the filter at the lift pump i cut a 2ltr bottle in half and use the bottom part to slide under the filter so it catches any fuel and the filter saving any mess. But just out of curiosity did you use a oil filter with a relief valve fitted inside? Keep up the good work guys .
Yes the plastic bag was not the easiest to catch diesel in! Good idea thanks. Be interesting to know if you have experienced overheating in heavy seas in your d1-20? Or have you already moved the coolant tank?
Cactus Sailing, no my header tank is still in the original place but have seen and been looking into placing it up higher on the bulkhead, but bear in mind that the fresh water system is circuited from a lower point than either the header tank or the heat exchanger so really all placing the tank up higher will just increase the hydrostatic pressure but I hope this works for you.
Great job. HAving the same boat, engine and problem, I will do the same next time I do the engine service. Could you tell if the lifting is enought? could you share the measures of the mounting plate you designed to lift the coolant deposit? thanks
Yes it’s worked well so far and we haven’t had any issues since raising it, I can remember cutting a “L” shape from a 6mm 150mm x 150mm aluminium plate I think I did a drawing on our Patreon page with the exact measurements.
Any higher than 150mm then the tank will touch the companionway steps, but the original hoses fit!
I have the 2020 engine and there is a tube covered by a black plastic cap that will take a larger tube to empty the oil quicker
ill have a look for this for next time - thanks!
Hey guys, thanks for this tech video. Wondering: did the solution with the lifted expansion tank work? Good thinking there 👍
Enjoying your videos and hope you will be sailing soon again 😃
Not too sure yet, it works fine of course, but it only ever used to overheat if sailing to windward on a port tack or in a large swell, the few chances we got to sail before lockdown we never had any rough weather to test it properly. I’m fairly confident it will work but I will update once I know more!
Cactus Sailing I’ll keep an eye out and hope you (we) can be out on the water soon again 👍
Thank you for this video. I’ve got the same boat and engine so this I perfect for me!
You guys seem fluent in engines which I am far from, so I have a question. When we bought our boat (fall 2020) the engine room was spotless. After just one summer of sailing there is a fair bit of black soot all over the engine and the walls. Is this normal or is something wrong?
Black soot could either be a tight belt and it’s belt dust or, you have a leak in the dry exhaust system somewhere, should be sootier where the leak is.
But black dust on the engine is not normal, good luck 🤞
I have a d1-20 from 2007 w/ 1100hours on the clock. Now I have exhaust spitting out from the coolant reservoar. So Probably the head or head gasket is done for. Will make a video on it ! :)
Hopefully you get it fixed!
@@CactusSailing Thanks! Just found a big hole in the exhaustmanifold/ heat exchanger, so now I just have to drain all the water out and replace the oil and parts :D $$$
Our alarm goes off and the overheating symbol comes on. We have done everything, to no avail, except replace the thermostat but, our schematic doesn't show us where it is and where we thought it was, wasn't where it is. we have the D1-20. help anyone?
Can’t post a picture on here, but if you google d1-20 workshop manual it will help identify where you need to look, thermostats all look similar. You can always just put the thermostat in boiling water once it’s out the housing to see if it opens, saves swapping out good parts needlessly.
Could just be something simple like a dirty heat exchanger, or if it’s happening when you heel over etc could be like ours in the video.
It’s not really something you can diagnose remotely
Can you give me some info on the plate used to raise the tank
im pretty sure it was a 150mm L bracket of some description i used, the tank just needs to be higher than your heat exchanger while heeled.
!!!....at the 9 minute mark he tips all the crap from the foul side of the old filter into the new filter!
I'm seeing nothing related to overheating. Just routine maint. Total waste of time.
the first 5 mins of the video i move the coolant tank up and explain why i thought this was the cause of our overheating issue, of course, overheating can be caused by many things, but this was what was causing ours. hopefully you find what's causing yours.👍