I’ve been carrying & shooting a light weight J Frame since 1968 and never had a problem. About 10 yrs ago I picked up a no-lock 340PD and took it to the range. Five rounds of .357 was all it took for me to switch my carry rounds to +P. The little gun remains in pristine condition and works well as an EDC in a pocket holster.
Thanks for watching. Yeah, the J frame would be extremely comfortable to carry in all regards. The 357 magnum load is very punishing. It would help getting past recoil sensitivity in very short order. If taken seriously, the 357 cartridge would need some thought inorder to be successful in a snub. Like fast burning pistol powder, shorter than standard 357 shell length & a very heavy crimp. Magnum loads used to be slower on the burn rate, but now there's no telling with short barrel technology. Hornady 125 grain hurts more than the 158 grain from my experience. I just like the added shank of the 158gr being used in a revolver. ~ Cheers.
Please learn your facts about firearms before doing post. The barrels on these revolvers are stainless steel, cylinders are titanium alloy, and frame is scandium alloy. Most likely that is lead in barrel.
In my opinion: So you mean to say that those pressed in gutter-like swirl marks leading in from the forcing cone would be built up lead? I would think seeing is believing. Where are your facts? Can you see a scratch around the 4 o'clock leading in before the red arrow appears? This would indicate that the bore is clean. The aluminum - scandium alloy would still be an alloy of aluminum. I'd let those character attacks go with what eyes can clearly see. Lead builds up, not down on a micro finished surface.
Yes, the barrel is a chromium, iron, carbon, etc alloy. Absolutely not aluminum. The "barrel" is two piece. A steel barrel attached to the frame, with an aluminum alloy sleeve wedged between the front of the barrel and the frame.
@@bobjohnson1633 In my opinion: No it's not. It would be an alloy that is one piece. A shroud is no more a barrel than the frame. There would be a ratchet bit that is used to torque the barrel to the frame & shroud. It torques from the bore lands & grooves. I would recommend reaching out to Smith&Wesson for clarification. ~ Best of luck to you.
In my opinion: Yeah, that J frame is pretty good along with the internal hammer option. Now if they can make a 4" pencil barrel with an adjustable rear sight that would be awesome. But you'd need to check your cylinder lock up more on their snubbies. I returned a model 638 once because of how loose the lockup was. The store owner wiggled the cylinder & then issued a full refund. Ordinary FFL dealers don't do that, but it was a major sporting goods department shore. The risk of it blowing up was too great for me to walk out the door with it. It's too bad being I really liked that revolver so much I ordered it in. Although I haven't shown the internals, the hammer loves to hit on the safety lock cut out on the frame. Can't imagine a proformance shop version being better than a run of the mill. It's an easy fix though. ~ Cheers.
In the old days people bobbed off the hammer spurs, & cut of half the trigger guards, I've heard of them referred to as "Fitz" specials, & it's very dangerous...
Yes, they were named Fitz Special because an Gunsmith of Colt with the surename Fitzgeral who made it. Normally they were in big frames like the New Service revolvers. And he cut the barrels too, at that time snub nose factory barrels were rare. Some D frames Fitz Special were the inspiration for the Detective Special and Banker Special models. I have heard cutting the trigger guards were dangerous but never hear a case about somebody shoot himself with one of this Fitz Specials. (Forgive my bad English)
I have a taurus M85 I had customized into a fitz special for pocket carry, it's a good gun, very dependable & serves its purpose well. the work was done on it by a very competent gunsmith & I paid quite a bit for it to be done. not something you'd want to do yourself or have a rookie gunsmith do.?
@@kknows3512 you've got a good point, i can dig it, i wasn't hating on nobody, just saying be careful, i carry too, i carry different guns.., sometimes a revolver, sometimes an auto, i like em all, one of favorites is an old small colt 4" bbl 38 Police Positive, its real slim & carrys well...
In my opinion: The metal tends to be the same from MIM hammer to hammer. Machined would be way more durable though. On the J, the left protrusion catches on the gun lock cutout. Their spurs seem crispy & durable being skin & clothes would cause much if any wear. Their draw bar improves in smoothness when the top sides of the transfer pad are stoned in a top down fashion. I haven't experienced any trouble with the draw bar except you need to pay close attention when putting the side cover on. The most significant improvement to the pull would be a better mainspring. Their trigger spring strength would be more critical for fast reset. The hammer weigh offsets a weaker mainspring. Their fireing pins haven't posed any wear issues so long as it's not the on the hammer type. ~ Cheers.
My S&W 36 is circa 1966 and is in fantastic condition. No +P fodder for my baby, I stick with 148gr wadcutters. Mine's a beauty with pinned barrel, firing pin in hammer, squared deeply cut checkered wood grips, case hardened trigger and hammer, very little wear on top strap behind forcing cone and it locks up tighter than a piss clam. The bluing is still sooooo rich and deep that I can see my reflection in the finish. It ain't just a gun, it's a freakin' work of art. Yeah, yours is kinda ugly.
The Scandium J frames are meant to be carried not to have thousands of rounds through them especially if those are 357's if you want a range gun buy one. This meat to be solely a carry gun they use this material for a reason it's supposed to be as light as possible so you don't know you have it on you. I wouldn't be running alot of 357 Magnum through a 11 oz gun anyhow your just asking for issues to happen. Most people that have these just stick with 38 or plus p at most. I've got about 105 rounds through mine a (340pd) 15 of those being 357s and have had no issues with it at all with it. I'm sure if you run a lot of 357s through it your going to experience some issues the Scandium frames aren't designed for that. Most people that have these practice with standard pressure 38 and carry the 357. Personally I just play it safe and stick with 38s cause with 357 out of this thing you got a better chance of throwing a stick at them then actually hitting them unless there right on top of you. It's 2022 you can get plenty of 38 loads that are just as hot if not hotter than some 357s. Buffalo bore makes plenty of them and Speer golddot if you can still find any now is also what I recommend. For range I wouldn't put anything in this but standard pressure I use pmc bronze 132 g and also it says on the barrels not to use anything under 120 g period. So I don't what you've been running through it but just be aware of what these are designed to take and what these are for. If you want a j frame you can shoot all the time and not have to worry about anything get a steel 640. If you want one that's as light as humanly possible and still have the capability of firing 357 SOMETIMES! Not regularly You can't beat a 340pd it's the lightest 357 revolver currently produced and that's why it's so expensive. Also I don't know who would do that around the trigger but that's looks very dangerous.
In my opinion: Yeah, Buffalo Bore 158gr LSWHP would probably do nicely being they use a monster case crimp like no other. The front part of the trigger guard can be dangerous without a holster & especially with a light trigger. That was all the rave from 1950s - 1970s. Some derringers still come with chopped rings to this day that are single action that probably would be WAY more dangerous. We also should mention those NAA micro 22LR single shot revolvers that have absolutely no trigger ring (don't know why people carry those being the hammer would rest between the rounds of the cylinder). The scandium alloy would be a aluminum composit & not entirely 100% pure. They tend to last longer than the Air Wight due to the hammer pivot stud being pressed into the frame & not embossed like the other that would be well known yo have their pin bosses fail just by repeated dry firing. Security ops & administrative LE rolls tend to mandate proficiency scores in order to carry a "particular" firearm on duty. So it would have to last whatever the professional standards are. The regulation on bullet weight would have to do more with the type of gun powder. You should see a metal shield above the forcing cone & cylinder bearing (the end shake would be set at this bearing & not entirely at the back of the yolk spool) being steel to prevent powder erosion. Some bullet weights don't do so well with slow burn rate powders so hotter would be a problem that typically comes with lighter projectiles. That gap area brings a lot of O² to the combustion to excellerate the temperature faster than what you'd expect with a pistol barrel. Sort of like those Iraqi service grade Le Enfields. The muzzle erosion is checked with a bullet facing down the bore on the muzzle end. If the case shoulder hits the crown or the lands rest on the bullet shank, the bore needs to be cut back or drilled down. It was NOT fun to shoot even for me. My friend can have it back. LOl Welcome to my channel. ~ Cheers
@@opinionsvary The only time I've seen one explode on someone was when someone was using a 125 g 357 which in my opinion is way to hot of a round to put through something like this and the 1st shot was OK the 2nd shot blew the whole thing apart. I guess like you said the forcing cone issue. I currently use Buffalo bore 38 standard 125 grain jhp for carry which is supposed to be a good round for older and more fragile framed revolvers. I was carrying the 135 g golddot plus p. But you can't find those at all anymore and I feel honestly I would get better expansion out of the Buffalo bore with it be a lighter round. These are awesome with the correct ammo I didn't buy this because it was able to shoot 357 that's where most people get these Scandium frames twisted I bought because before I had a 442 and wanted something even lighter than that. People hear 357 and think that's all they should run through it.
@@ncraider2000 In my opinion: The difference between 38 & 357 is the 38 usually has a faster powder for the short barrel. The 357 tends to run slower burning powders to get to the "magnum" catagory. Magnums aren't all that ideal for short barrels. You 'd be right about the 125 gr being hot. Lighter bullets would need a heavy crimp for the lack of shank a heavier weight would have. Typically you'd expect faster powders for lighter bullets. ~ Thanks for the input.
If you're not gonna shoot 357 and just use 38, save $500 and get a 442. I have a cheap Taurus 357 snubbie and only shoot 357. If I paid close to $1,000 for a 357 and it couldn't handle it I'd send it back. Makes no sense to pay extra for 357 and only shoot 38. You can buy 2 637 or 442 for the price of that 357
@@jimchambers7548 I like having the option to shoot both I do shoot 357 now. At first I didn't care for it but I've gotten used to it and if I want to run a lot of it I'll just pull out my 686 plus. Plus the weight of a 340pd makes a difference iwb
Cagey, albeit enlightening discussion in the comments. Cool revolvers. Everything has its draw backs. By nature of your channel name I'd guess this isn't the first well loved object you happen to dislike, despite many liking it. I have no dog in this, prefer much smaller stuff y'all would laugh at. I can understand your frustration, expensive gun (due to the light weight) makes it seem like good choice to carry, rated for 357. Should be able to handle it, for life. the slam damage looks minor so far, and i'll have to agree with the gunsmith on the barrel. If there is actually damage, in time presumably itd get worse and cause failures to function. I would be bummed out if I bought one new.. then later find out I can't train with what I intend to carry. It wouldn't be fum putting 500-1000 rounds thru it of 357 magnum, but if thats what I was going to carry, thats how I'd train. I believe in practicing with what you will carry, gun, ammo, holster etc. To those suggesting train with 38 special only to preserve the gun, I say you are going a little to easy on s&w they make tools, that should be able to take a beating and keep on firing. They have done it with millions of other revolvers, they may need to either offer warning of max round count with full hot 357 loads, or make the gun slightly stronger. Most prob cant afford to do this, but having one for the range and one to carry (exact copies) and only shooting carry gun every now and then to ensure it functions proper would be best bet, but thats a ton to ask. Should be able to buy 1 and be done if you take care of it and use only ammo they rate the revolver for.
In my opinion: This gun failed law enforcement so much they redid it with more durable parts being the cleaning solutions didn't work so well & the finish would easily come off. Not being able to use the harsh professional means to clean off the cylinder face burn holes this revolver was a short lived trend. I have to agree with meeting professional standards the way photo lamination goes these days. Thanks for watching! ~ Cheers
In my other opinion: A gunsmith is a person who works under or has an FFL who manipulates firearms where as armours exchange trash parts with approved OEM or the equivalent. There are very few schools for gunsmithing & absolutely no government regulations other than how long they'd have someone's firearms for. Typically if it's over 24 hours a FFL would be required by law for records keeping on inventory even if it were to be a hobby. The NRA is not a regulatory agency of the government if anyone were to ask & they were largely apposed to military training methods. So be on guard & use your best judgment with any of these guys. I would expect the big names out there would have engineers & millwrights overseeing things but the way production goes assemblers have less knowledge in what they'd be doing than anybody else.
Back in the old days they were called the Fitz special. Bobbed hammer.. cut away trigger guard.. but I would never have that done nowadays too much of a liability.. makes it easier to have a accidental discharge and also in a self-defense shooting might be used in court against you because you modified the gun to that extent..
In my opinion: Until the Federal laws change (or have changed), you could argue that you'd be allowed to make your own gun. Or that there are modern revolvers that come with bobbed hammers such as the Ruger SP101 & Smith&Wesson 638 that would be just as dangerous. To make a gun more effective or efficient is way safer than practicing to train out all the gross errors that typically occur. But you have to hit your target & not anything or anyone else outside the threat consideration. When self defense authorizes lethal force, lethal force is lethal force. When in doubt you could email your State Attorney's Office for advise. Many times social policies violate the provisions of the 2nd Amendment & a lot has changed since Clinton was in office.
Who uses non steel barrels? Never heard of that one. Aluminum alloy is never used because its WAY too soft. All steel is an alloy, what barrels are made of only
In my opinion: It most likely is used to bond titanium to other metals being aluminum & steel don't do it. It's not a durable metal contrary to the mythical hysteria used in commercial marketing to justify higher cost of otherwise common goods. Yeah, my original Eco Drive titainum watch band wore loose in short order & its lithium battery seemed more durable at the same rate. After 3 years it rattled like a 20 year old Rolex. Mind you when that photovoltaic solar system came about lithium watch batteries were in their infancy. Lithium on a side note wouldn't be all that eco friendly either especially when they catch on fire & have been well known to kill infants & toddlers who swallow them. I wouldn't waist my time or money on anything titanium unless it would be a stabilizer plate used in orthopedic surgeries. Titanium surgical tools don't last very long either as statement of fact that speaks to this topic of concern. Thanks for watching ~ Cheers!
In my opinion: The cylinder slam is the worst of any. It just won't last. For one the highest priced snubbies on the market you'd have to be a fan. Did you actually see the video?
I’ve been carrying & shooting a light weight J Frame since 1968 and never had a problem. About 10 yrs ago I picked up a no-lock 340PD and took it to the range. Five rounds of .357 was all it took for me to switch my carry rounds to +P. The little gun remains in pristine condition and works well as an EDC in a pocket holster.
Thanks for watching. Yeah, the J frame would be extremely comfortable to carry in all regards. The 357 magnum load is very punishing. It would help getting past recoil sensitivity in very short order. If taken seriously, the 357 cartridge would need some thought inorder to be successful in a snub.
Like fast burning pistol powder, shorter than standard 357 shell length & a very heavy crimp. Magnum loads used to be slower on the burn rate, but now there's no telling with short barrel technology.
Hornady 125 grain hurts more than the 158 grain from my experience. I just like the added shank of the 158gr being used in a revolver.
~ Cheers.
Please learn your facts about firearms before doing post. The barrels on these revolvers are stainless steel, cylinders are titanium alloy, and frame is scandium alloy. Most likely that is lead in barrel.
In my opinion: So you mean to say that those pressed in gutter-like swirl marks leading in from the forcing cone would be built up lead? I would think seeing is believing. Where are your facts?
Can you see a scratch around the 4 o'clock leading in before the red arrow appears? This would indicate that the bore is clean.
The aluminum - scandium alloy would still be an alloy of aluminum.
I'd let those character attacks go with what eyes can clearly see.
Lead builds up, not down on a micro finished surface.
Sir, I've bin a gunsmith since 1991 and have never seen S&W airlite or air weight " stretch rifling" without bulging a barrel.
@@patfitzgerald5140 In my opinion: Now you have.
~ Cheers
Yes, the barrel is a chromium, iron, carbon, etc alloy. Absolutely not aluminum. The "barrel" is two piece. A steel barrel attached to the frame, with an aluminum alloy sleeve wedged between the front of the barrel and the frame.
@@bobjohnson1633 In my opinion: No it's not. It would be an alloy that is one piece. A shroud is no more a barrel than the frame. There would be a ratchet bit that is used to torque the barrel to the frame & shroud. It torques from the bore lands & grooves.
I would recommend reaching out to Smith&Wesson for clarification.
~ Best of luck to you.
Didn’t hear him say one thing that was accurate.
Ignorance is deadly. Damn
I have several a standard 38 plus p and a performance center 38 plus p enjoy them very much never had an issue however I've never had the 357 version.
In my opinion: Yeah, that J frame is pretty good along with the internal hammer option. Now if they can make a 4" pencil barrel with an adjustable rear sight that would be awesome.
But you'd need to check your cylinder lock up more on their snubbies. I returned a model 638 once because of how loose the lockup was. The store owner wiggled the cylinder & then issued a full refund. Ordinary FFL dealers don't do that, but it was a major sporting goods department shore. The risk of it blowing up was too great for me to walk out the door with it.
It's too bad being I really liked that revolver so much I ordered it in.
Although I haven't shown the internals, the hammer loves to hit on the safety lock cut out on the frame. Can't imagine a proformance shop version being better than a run of the mill. It's an easy fix though.
~ Cheers.
In the old days people bobbed off the hammer spurs, & cut of half the trigger guards, I've heard of them referred to as "Fitz" specials, & it's very dangerous...
Yes, they were named Fitz Special because an Gunsmith of Colt with the surename Fitzgeral who made it. Normally they were in big frames like the New Service revolvers. And he cut the barrels too, at that time snub nose factory barrels were rare. Some D frames Fitz Special were the inspiration for the Detective Special and Banker Special models. I have heard cutting the trigger guards were dangerous but never hear a case about somebody shoot himself with one of this Fitz Specials.
(Forgive my bad English)
I have a taurus M85 I had customized into a fitz special for pocket carry, it's a good gun, very dependable & serves its purpose well. the work was done on it by a very competent gunsmith & I paid quite a bit for it to be done. not something you'd want to do yourself or have a rookie gunsmith do.?
I agree it's very dangerous for some idiot punk to accost an old man (like me) with a Fitz 637 in my pocket!
@@kknows3512 you've got a good point, i can dig it, i wasn't hating on nobody, just saying be careful, i carry too, i carry different guns.., sometimes a revolver, sometimes an auto, i like em all, one of favorites is an old small colt 4" bbl 38 Police Positive, its real slim & carrys well...
It's a Fitz Special! Colts Mr. Fitzgerald custom made a lot of them in the thirties.
Good info there! Whats your opinion regarding k vs j frame transfer bar vs spur firing pin durability and reliability?
In my opinion: The metal tends to be the same from MIM hammer to hammer. Machined would be way more durable though. On the J, the left protrusion catches on the gun lock cutout. Their spurs seem crispy & durable being skin & clothes would cause much if any wear.
Their draw bar improves in smoothness when the top sides of the transfer pad are stoned in a top down fashion. I haven't experienced any trouble with the draw bar except you need to pay close attention when putting the side cover on.
The most significant improvement to the pull would be a better mainspring. Their trigger spring strength would be more critical for fast reset. The hammer weigh offsets a weaker mainspring.
Their fireing pins haven't posed any wear issues so long as it's not the on the hammer type.
~ Cheers.
My S&W 36 is circa 1966 and is in fantastic condition. No +P fodder for my baby, I stick with 148gr wadcutters. Mine's a beauty with pinned barrel, firing pin in hammer, squared deeply cut checkered wood grips, case hardened trigger and hammer, very little wear on top strap behind forcing cone and it locks up tighter than a piss clam. The bluing is still sooooo rich and deep that I can see my reflection in the finish. It ain't just a gun, it's a freakin' work of art. Yeah, yours is kinda ugly.
🤣 Things ain't what they used to be.
Yes I don't like those key lock guns.
@@davidschaadt3460- Gotta agree, it spoils the lines and when has "lawyer-proofing" ever improved any weapon?
I've got a airweight 637 and have had no problems with it, but your peice is different
The Scandium J frames are meant to be carried not to have thousands of rounds through them especially if those are 357's if you want a range gun buy one. This meat to be solely a carry gun they use this material for a reason it's supposed to be as light as possible so you don't know you have it on you. I wouldn't be running alot of 357 Magnum through a 11 oz gun anyhow your just asking for issues to happen. Most people that have these just stick with 38 or plus p at most. I've got about 105 rounds through mine a (340pd) 15 of those being 357s and have had no issues with it at all with it. I'm sure if you run a lot of 357s through it your going to experience some issues the Scandium frames aren't designed for that. Most people that have these practice with standard pressure 38 and carry the 357. Personally I just play it safe and stick with 38s cause with 357 out of this thing you got a better chance of throwing a stick at them then actually hitting them unless there right on top of you. It's 2022 you can get plenty of 38 loads that are just as hot if not hotter than some 357s. Buffalo bore makes plenty of them and Speer golddot if you can still find any now is also what I recommend. For range I wouldn't put anything in this but standard pressure I use pmc bronze 132 g and also it says on the barrels not to use anything under 120 g period. So I don't what you've been running through it but just be aware of what these are designed to take and what these are for. If you want a j frame you can shoot all the time and not have to worry about anything get a steel 640. If you want one that's as light as humanly possible and still have the capability of firing 357 SOMETIMES! Not regularly You can't beat a 340pd it's the lightest 357 revolver currently produced and that's why it's so expensive. Also I don't know who would do that around the trigger but that's looks very dangerous.
In my opinion: Yeah, Buffalo Bore 158gr LSWHP would probably do nicely being they use a monster case crimp like no other. The front part of the trigger guard can be dangerous without a holster & especially with a light trigger. That was all the rave from 1950s - 1970s.
Some derringers still come with chopped rings to this day that are single action that probably would be WAY more dangerous. We also should mention those NAA micro 22LR single shot revolvers that have absolutely no trigger ring (don't know why people carry those being the hammer would rest between the rounds of the cylinder).
The scandium alloy would be a aluminum composit & not entirely 100% pure. They tend to last longer than the Air Wight due to the hammer pivot stud being pressed into the frame & not embossed like the other that would be well known yo have their pin bosses fail just by repeated dry firing.
Security ops & administrative LE rolls tend to mandate proficiency scores in order to carry a "particular" firearm on duty. So it would have to last whatever the professional standards are.
The regulation on bullet weight would have to do more with the type of gun powder. You should see a metal shield above the forcing cone & cylinder bearing (the end shake would be set at this bearing & not entirely at the back of the yolk spool) being steel to prevent powder erosion. Some bullet weights don't do so well with slow burn rate powders so hotter would be a problem that typically comes with lighter projectiles.
That gap area brings a lot of O² to the combustion to excellerate the temperature faster than what you'd expect with a pistol barrel. Sort of like those Iraqi service grade Le Enfields. The muzzle erosion is checked with a bullet facing down the bore on the muzzle end. If the case shoulder hits the crown or the lands rest on the bullet shank, the bore needs to be cut back or drilled down.
It was NOT fun to shoot even for me. My friend can have it back. LOl
Welcome to my channel.
~ Cheers
@@opinionsvary The only time I've seen one explode on someone was when someone was using a 125 g 357 which in my opinion is way to hot of a round to put through something like this and the 1st shot was OK the 2nd shot blew the whole thing apart. I guess like you said the forcing cone issue. I currently use Buffalo bore 38 standard 125 grain jhp for carry which is supposed to be a good round for older and more fragile framed revolvers. I was carrying the 135 g golddot plus p. But you can't find those at all anymore and I feel honestly I would get better expansion out of the Buffalo bore with it be a lighter round. These are awesome with the correct ammo I didn't buy this because it was able to shoot 357 that's where most people get these Scandium frames twisted I bought because before I had a 442 and wanted something even lighter than that. People hear 357 and think that's all they should run through it.
@@ncraider2000 In my opinion: The difference between 38 & 357 is the 38 usually has a faster powder for the short barrel. The 357 tends to run slower burning powders to get to the "magnum" catagory.
Magnums aren't all that ideal for short barrels.
You 'd be right about the 125 gr being hot. Lighter bullets would need a heavy crimp for the lack of shank a heavier weight would have. Typically you'd expect faster powders for lighter bullets.
~ Thanks for the input.
If you're not gonna shoot 357 and just use 38, save $500 and get a 442. I have a cheap Taurus 357 snubbie and only shoot 357. If I paid close to $1,000 for a 357 and it couldn't handle it I'd send it back. Makes no sense to pay extra for 357 and only shoot 38. You can buy 2 637 or 442 for the price of that 357
@@jimchambers7548 I like having the option to shoot both I do shoot 357 now. At first I didn't care for it but I've gotten used to it and if I want to run a lot of it I'll just pull out my 686 plus. Plus the weight of a 340pd makes a difference iwb
In my opinion:The Fitzgerald trigger guard looks ugly before and it's still ugly now and I don't care about its pros.
Cagey, albeit enlightening discussion in the comments. Cool revolvers. Everything has its draw backs. By nature of your channel name I'd guess this isn't the first well loved object you happen to dislike, despite many liking it. I have no dog in this, prefer much smaller stuff y'all would laugh at. I can understand your frustration, expensive gun (due to the light weight) makes it seem like good choice to carry, rated for 357. Should be able to handle it, for life. the slam damage looks minor so far, and i'll have to agree with the gunsmith on the barrel. If there is actually damage, in time presumably itd get worse and cause failures to function. I would be bummed out if I bought one new.. then later find out I can't train with what I intend to carry. It wouldn't be fum putting 500-1000 rounds thru it of 357 magnum, but if thats what I was going to carry, thats how I'd train. I believe in practicing with what you will carry, gun, ammo, holster etc. To those suggesting train with 38 special only to preserve the gun, I say you are going a little to easy on s&w they make tools, that should be able to take a beating and keep on firing. They have done it with millions of other revolvers, they may need to either offer warning of max round count with full hot 357 loads, or make the gun slightly stronger. Most prob cant afford to do this, but having one for the range and one to carry (exact copies) and only shooting carry gun every now and then to ensure it functions proper would be best bet, but thats a ton to ask. Should be able to buy 1 and be done if you take care of it and use only ammo they rate the revolver for.
In my opinion: This gun failed law enforcement so much they redid it with more durable parts being the cleaning solutions didn't work so well & the finish would easily come off. Not being able to use the harsh professional means to clean off the cylinder face burn holes this revolver was a short lived trend. I have to agree with meeting professional standards the way photo lamination goes these days.
Thanks for watching!
~ Cheers
In my other opinion: A gunsmith is a person who works under or has an FFL who manipulates firearms where as armours exchange trash parts with approved OEM or the equivalent.
There are very few schools for gunsmithing & absolutely no government regulations other than how long they'd have someone's firearms for. Typically if it's over 24 hours a FFL would be required by law for records keeping on inventory even if it were to be a hobby.
The NRA is not a regulatory agency of the government if anyone were to ask & they were largely apposed to military training methods.
So be on guard & use your best judgment with any of these guys.
I would expect the big names out there would have engineers & millwrights overseeing things but the way production goes assemblers have less knowledge in what they'd be doing than anybody else.
Back in the old days they were called the Fitz special. Bobbed hammer.. cut away trigger guard.. but I would never have that done nowadays too much of a liability.. makes it easier to have a accidental discharge and also in a self-defense shooting might be used in court against you because you modified the gun to that extent..
In my opinion: Until the Federal laws change (or have changed), you could argue that you'd be allowed to make your own gun.
Or that there are modern revolvers that come with bobbed hammers such as the Ruger SP101 & Smith&Wesson 638 that would be just as dangerous.
To make a gun more effective or efficient is way safer than practicing to train out all the gross errors that typically occur. But you have to hit your target & not anything or anyone else outside the threat consideration.
When self defense authorizes lethal force, lethal force is lethal force.
When in doubt you could email your State Attorney's Office for advise.
Many times social policies violate the provisions of the 2nd Amendment & a lot has changed since Clinton was in office.
Stick to fortnights 👍🏻🍻
Who uses non steel barrels? Never heard of that one. Aluminum alloy is never used because its WAY too soft. All steel is an alloy, what barrels are made of only
In my opinion: It most likely is used to bond titanium to other metals being aluminum & steel don't do it. It's not a durable metal contrary to the mythical hysteria used in commercial marketing to justify higher cost of otherwise common goods.
Yeah, my original Eco Drive titainum watch band wore loose in short order & its lithium battery seemed more durable at the same rate. After 3 years it rattled like a 20 year old Rolex. Mind you when that photovoltaic solar system came about lithium watch batteries were in their infancy. Lithium on a side note wouldn't be all that eco friendly either especially when they catch on fire & have been well known to kill infants & toddlers who swallow them.
I wouldn't waist my time or money on anything titanium unless it would be a stabilizer plate used in orthopedic surgeries. Titanium surgical tools don't last very long either as statement of fact that speaks to this topic of concern.
Thanks for watching ~ Cheers!
In my opinion I will not be watching your videos any more.
In my opinion: Having a hard time finding the door or something? You'll be greatly missed when the door bell breaks.
~ Cheers.
They called them Jennings specials.
They are called Fitz Specials, after John Henry Fitzgerald a employee at Colt firearms.
Being awfully pickey to a perfect pocket carry revolver.
In my opinion: The cylinder slam is the worst of any. It just won't last. For one the highest priced snubbies on the market you'd have to be a fan. Did you actually see the video?
I see the one in my pocket quite often and it looks pretty good to me.I have no desire to run a million rounds through it.
Very boring and that’s not only due to talking.
So amazing that you posted.
~Cheers