@@junkname9983 scotty is ok but he pushe his opinions as facts too much at times. Just like he says Odysseys are a pile of junk yet he says Pilots for the same era are good, they are nearly the same car mechanically lol
I always stick with Denso on my Honda and Toyota vehicles. I also stick with OEM on MAF, MAP sensors etc. I find they are worth the extra cost because of what you just discovered. I put an after market MAF on a Honda that corrected the fuel trim but caused the car to stall out when accelerating from a stop. Put in OEM, yes $30 more, but fixed both issues instantly.
I have to do the rear camber adjuster bolts and lower arms on my 2008 Acura RDX. You just opened up my world Eric. I have been trying to justify that Milwaukee till now. Thank you for posting
Tip, always place a piece of cardboard or something similar on windshield before removing wiper blades just in case arm snaps back and could crack the glass
Enjoyable seeing this van reconditioned. This will serve some family well. I sure wish I had it for my grandkids, ages 4, 2 and 1. Trying to get three car seats in my car is a no-go.
No worries about the faulty sensor, Eric, and better yet thanks for being honest and sharing with us. So long as you don't repeat it, it proves even someone with your experience will make mistakes here and there.
When I started learning to wrench on my Jeep, one of the first things I learned was "If it's a mission-critical sensor, use OEM only". So many people on the forums had problems after buying cheap aftermarket O2 or crank sensors - problems that were, of course, fixed the moment they installed a new OEM sensor instead. And the great thing is, OEM doesn't mean you have to buy it at the dealership at huge cost. Find out who's the OEM supplier for that part for your brand of car (none of the car companies actually make their own parts, they contract them all out) and buy it in the supplier's packaging for a hefty discount over what you'll pay for the exact same part in the car company packaging. A good example would be O2 sensors. NTK is the OEM supplier for those on my Jeep. I bought two sensors in NTK packaging for less than the price of a single Mopar-branded sensor, even though it was literally the exact same part.
When that socket fell off putting the air filter box back together, is exactly what makes me want all locking extentions. I have a couple, but at times I feel like I should just buy all locking.
Thanks for the video, Eric. *@**16:46* Split a length of hose (garden, vacuum, heater) works way better, way more durable, way more cushion for coil springs. For most "older" vehicles- the OEM part will be Unobtainium.
Brings back good memories of working on our erstwhile 2006 Odyssey on which I did the valve adjustment at 167k and timing belt job (with new water pump and new serpentine belt and tensioner, natch) at 205k (hat tip to ETCG and SMA Eric O for the videos). Now we have a 2019 Ody with very different rear suspension (Aluminum LCAs, for example). Thankfully I didn’t have to deal with corrosion like you guys up north do.
I do like how Honda is pretty good about the "that's gonna kinda go on only one way." Many of the things I've worked on on my Hondas over the years got put on right because of one tiny difference that Honda engineers made to keep me (the brainless guy working on the car) from putting it on backwards. I haven't always been as lucky on my other makes and models.
3:30 I used a clear all purpose Silicone in that gap on my car to hold that small movement about 2 years ago and it still doing good 👍. Just a small amount not too much.
wou l am very entertained by these videos, I would really like to know how much you have put into this sling bro, I admire and respect your work a lot, always on the lookout for the next video, greetings
I've got a a few clips in the same spot on my 2012 RAV4 that are broken, and those bottom splash shields and fender lines absolutely hold it in better. No wobble at all with those in place. Definitely worth replacing those if you can find some in decent condition.
Always learn so much! I purchased a water pump for a BMW from Amazon - same issue as O2 sensor: looked exactly the same and failed in first drive. Never buy parts made in China.
Eric did you ever make a video on replacing the motor mounts on a Honda Odyssey? Thank you for your older Odyssey videos. Helped me greatly with repairing a 01 Odyssey
Love the videos. I'm amazed at the amount of parts still available from Honda directly; a lot of cars 15 years or older don't get OEM support like that.
I had a similar issue with a cap and rotor kit from Amazon - barely made it a year before the cap burnt through. The kicker - the company wouldn't warranty it. So I wrote a one star review. Then they wanted to refund my money if I would take the bad review down. Never did get my money back.
Funny story:I changed all 4 o2 sensors on dad's yukon with ngk(or whatever their sensor division is called). Sensor 1 no problem, sensor 2...the wire connector would only go on upside down so obviously still throwing codes. I snapped of the plastic guide tab inside the connector, problem solved. Moral: I was really surprised a reputable company would screw up like that.
Hey Eric put some cutting oil on those sawzall blades and don't run them as fast but keep as much force as you can on them. They'll cut just as quickly and one blade will last 10x as long.
@@jims2507 Anything is better than nothing. Motor oil works. There are dedicated cutting oils, if you have a pipe threading machine or a lathe or a high volume production situation you'd definitely want real cutting oil. There's a few types, a good one for a hobbyist/shadetree guy would be Tap Magic. The older style cutting oil is a heavy weight mineral oil with a high sulfur content. I buy it by the gallon for my pipe threading machine.
Eric, 1) you talked about valve adjustment, and why you didn't do it. How do I know when the valves are too loud, when I'm not a mechanic? 2) Thanks for showing part #s! 3) And thanks for links to tools and other videos!! Great series!!
Valve adjustment is very important on that engine. The valves never make noise when they need to be adjusted. The valve clearance gets TIGHT as the valves wear, not loose. With a cold engine, put a vacuum gauge on the engine and start it. If vacuum is low, (13-14 in.hg) and increases (to 18 in.hg as an example) as the engine warms up , it needs a valve adjustment.
Erik, thanks for explaining about why you didn't do the valve adjustment, i guessed you had a reason and am surprised you explained it to us, you must of had a lot of comments about the valves. I am surprised that you said Honda didn't have a time from from doing the adjustment as the dealer i went to wanted to do it around 100K miles kinda in line with the timing chain. I don't know, i have a Pilot and Odyssey, I did the Odyssey around 100K and didn't do the pilot until about 170K miles when the check engine light kept coming on with Multi-Cylinder misfire codes...So you of course i think are spot on your recommendation as to not do it till its a problem....if it ain't broke....
I used to use transmission fluid in my engine prior to an oil change on my 77 Chevy Blazer. Saw an article in popular Popular Hot Rodding magazine. Has the same results
I'm using heavy metal blade with 'big' carbide teeth (bosch or milwaukee) and 1 blade is enough for cutting 20 bushings. That type what you bought is good for metals 2-3mm.
I got super lucky for my Tucson I needed a new 02 sensor and factory oem was over $200 bucks got a no name brand one for $10 on eBay and it worked for me
I just (2019) had a rebuilt toyota starter put in the first generation sienna (1998-2002). The solenoid was misbehaving on it. I replace the battery as soon as it goes bad, keeps the starter and alternator from going out early. Still on my first alternator.
Howdy All, longtime viewer, 1st time commenter. I’ve been a professional technician and instructor for 25+ years and thoroughly enjoy your channel. Much respect for you, your channel and your content Eric! Thought I’d reiterate some info to the community on the valve adjustment... as with many engines (including Hondas) valve face and valve seats can wear in such a way that causes the valve to sit further in the head which could cause the valve clearance to disappear. The result is a tight (though quiet) valve. While this is good from a noise standpoint, a tight valve will have reduced cooling capacity (because valves normally transfer their heat to the valve seat and head while it is closed) and could result in the valve getting burned. The Honda 3.5’s usually exhibit random misfires when one or more valves get tight. The bottom line here is if the manufacturer put an adjuster there, it’s for a reason. In other words, a quiet valve is not always a happy valve. Always better to check the valve clearance and adjust accordingly at regular intervals such as 60K / 90K.
Thank you for that input. As a Honda tech of 25+ years, I have yet to see an issue with J series valves that weren't the result of someone else's work. Not saying what you stated couldn't happen, but having worked on J series engines since they came out in the late 90's, I haven't experienced that issue. Additionally, I can't count the number of times I've gotten emails from people stating that they have an issue after adjusting their valves. I don't recommend adjusting valves if you are not experienced with it. It takes a while, and several screw ups, to be proficient at it. Thanks again for your input.
Not saying that I haven't seen valves get tight before, especially exhaust valves, but I didn't think the adjustment was necessary on this particular engine. Valve adjustments, when done properly, can make an engine run really smooth. On this particular vehicle, it was a judgement call on my part. I hope I don't eat my words at some point. Thank you again for your input.
@@ericthecarguy "Eat my words" LOL... As you know, anyone that's been in the industry that tells you they've seen it all is lying to you! I only brought it up because some years ago I had a Saturn SUV (a VUE I think) with a Honda J series V6 - random misfires that was cured with a valve adjustment. It had quite a few valves so tight I was unable to fit even my thinnest feeler gauge. Also, I recently picked up an '08 Odyssey (non VCM) with same issue and same cure. Again, much respect for what you bring to the automotive community Sir, keep it up.
Come to think of it, I've seen the same in the past. However, most times I find that it's the EGR passages getting clogged that causes misfires. Particularly on the older models. The newer ones don't seem to have the same problem. I've been thinking about it and I may do a valve adjustment on this engine anyway. Not just because, as you rightly pointed out, it's not a bad idea, but it would also be an opportunity to inspect how effective the sludge treatment was. Thank you for your input and not being a troll about it. Much respect.
Eric, over 20 years experience as a QE with tier 1 suppliers to Honda. 99.9% of the time, the lower number part number is right hand for parts that come as L & R. The reason is in Japan is right hand drive.
I have an 08 Odyssey; I don't like how small the oil filter is for this van but I didn't engineer the engine; I REALLY don't like that the oil drains over the suspension member. Also my PCV is on the top of the engine though I also have VCM on mine. I keep these videos for if/when i need to do work on my Odyssey, they'll be a handy guide at the very least.
Eric thank you for sharing your wonderful videos and showing me your Bosch scanner I would love to have a Bosch scanner tool like yours I am from South Africa
I chased a terrible clunk noise from the rear of my Odyssey for months. Turns out it was the plastic saddle for the coil springs at 16:50. They were destroyed and the metal on metal nose was even felt in the floor. They are now on my 50k replacement schedule.
Eric, you ran into a problem with Amazon on the O2 sensors that seems to be a problem with a number of items sold on that site. Items being sold as name brand or that look exactly like name brand are, in fact, not. PUR water filters is an example I most recently ran into. Prices for these filters on Amazon are all over the board (or at least were when last I shopped for them), making it hard to resist not going with the lowest price. As always, another great video!
Looking forward to your Christmas Album Eric! 19:33 "why couldn't they make the inner bolts out of this stuff?" They could have, but an efficiency engineer (see also bean counter) noted that bolts closer to the center of the car don't corrode as quickly as those near the outside of the car, and they could save $0.05 per bolt, @ 2 per unit, with ~135,000 units being produced, results in a manufacturing cost savings of $13,500 per year for just those bolts. Several similar decisions are made to reduce the manufacturing cost so the product can be competitive. Great series, my wife an I are contemplating a minivan, leaning towards a Sienna V6 AWD, so prior gen
Careful with the taillight this time eric, there's a little lock stud in the headlight that slots into the body. you gotta use a little plastic pry tool between the light and the rail body and give it a little pry, don't yank on the light.
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
Eric I appreciate that you don't skip a beat in preparing a vehicle for some very deserving person down on their luck. You da man Eric.
I agree! Eric is the guy!
What he said.
it's a pleasure to watch a master at his craft.
I'm definitely in for a ETCG Christmas album.
It’s the most wonderful time of the year 🎼🎶🎵
ETCG1 Christmas odyssey Album 1
We wish you a Odyssey Christmas we wish you a Odyssey Christmas we wish you a Odyssey Christmas and Honda New Year.
I think Ericthecarguy, Chrisfix, Engineering and explained and Humble Mechanic need to start a Barbershop Quartet
Being a HVAC/R tech for 45+ yrs, you are 100% spot on in cleaning the condenser and the coil cleaner you used.
These videos are a goldmine for shade tree mechanics like I am. The techniques apply across the board for cars.
I love Fixing it Forward.
“Big Fancy Scan Tool” saves the day. I can hear Scotty Kilmer yelling that ....
Scotty would not work on it he says odysseys are a "pile of junk" lol
@@CRAPO2011 Scotty's an amateur compared with Eric.
@@junkname9983 scotty is ok but he pushe his opinions as facts too much at times. Just like he says Odysseys are a pile of junk yet he says Pilots for the same era are good, they are nearly the same car mechanically lol
@@CRAPO2011 Scotty thinks all cars except his T200 Celica are piles of Junk
@@IIGrayfoxII He also likes his wifes LEXUS ES HAHA
Wished I had a mechanic like Eric in my hometown! Love the episodes! Keep up the great work!
This and Scotty Kilmer - the two car masters.
Every time I watch your videos. It gives me added confidence when working on my car
I always like Eric's fixing it forward series
I always stick with Denso on my Honda and Toyota vehicles. I also stick with OEM on MAF, MAP sensors etc. I find they are worth the extra cost because of what you just discovered. I put an after market MAF on a Honda that corrected the fuel trim but caused the car to stall out when accelerating from a stop. Put in OEM, yes $30 more, but fixed both issues instantly.
Anything Denso "first time fit" aftermarket I use for my Honda.
Good stuff. I’ve been burned before by not buying Honda parts.
I have to do the rear camber adjuster bolts and lower arms on my 2008 Acura RDX. You just opened up my world Eric. I have been trying to justify that Milwaukee till now. Thank you for posting
Tip, always place a piece of cardboard or something similar on windshield before removing wiper blades just in case arm snaps back and could crack the glass
Bless you Eric ! Great work , Runs good again .ENJOYED
Enjoyable seeing this van reconditioned. This will serve some family well. I sure wish I had it for my grandkids, ages 4, 2 and 1. Trying to get three car seats in my car is a no-go.
"Pays to be a Pack Rat" - best line of the video I laughed out loud but totally agree!
Always enjoy watching your videos. I like the way you show what can go wrong during the job. Great use of hose pliers.
NTK (NGK) also makes good O2 sensors for Hondas, like Denso does. Great job Eric!
Honda sometimes uses the NTK as oem. My 2002 odyssey originally came with downstream denso upstream NTK
Yes they do. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy no prob ,thanks for the reply :-)
No worries about the faulty sensor, Eric, and better yet thanks for being honest and sharing with us. So long as you don't repeat it, it proves even someone with your experience will make mistakes here and there.
Thanks for this. You have an attention to detail that I like. Thanks again brother..
When I started learning to wrench on my Jeep, one of the first things I learned was "If it's a mission-critical sensor, use OEM only". So many people on the forums had problems after buying cheap aftermarket O2 or crank sensors - problems that were, of course, fixed the moment they installed a new OEM sensor instead.
And the great thing is, OEM doesn't mean you have to buy it at the dealership at huge cost. Find out who's the OEM supplier for that part for your brand of car (none of the car companies actually make their own parts, they contract them all out) and buy it in the supplier's packaging for a hefty discount over what you'll pay for the exact same part in the car company packaging.
A good example would be O2 sensors. NTK is the OEM supplier for those on my Jeep. I bought two sensors in NTK packaging for less than the price of a single Mopar-branded sensor, even though it was literally the exact same part.
When that socket fell off putting the air filter box back together, is exactly what makes me want all locking extentions. I have a couple, but at times I feel like I should just buy all locking.
They should also make candles in "Freshly Laid Asphalt" and "Diesel Exhaust".
Thanks for the video, Eric.
*@**16:46*
Split a length of hose (garden, vacuum, heater) works way better,
way more durable, way more cushion for coil springs.
For most "older" vehicles- the OEM part will be Unobtainium.
Brings back good memories of working on our erstwhile 2006 Odyssey on which I did the valve adjustment at 167k and timing belt job (with new water pump and new serpentine belt and tensioner, natch) at 205k (hat tip to ETCG and SMA Eric O for the videos). Now we have a 2019 Ody with very different rear suspension (Aluminum LCAs, for example). Thankfully I didn’t have to deal with corrosion like you guys up north do.
Had the valves on my 04 Odyssey reset at 104,000 miles. Gained 1.0 miles per gallon and a bunch more throttle response. Runs like new!
Great video, I try to not miss any of your videos. Thanks
I love this series
I do like how Honda is pretty good about the "that's gonna kinda go on only one way." Many of the things I've worked on on my Hondas over the years got put on right because of one tiny difference that Honda engineers made to keep me (the brainless guy working on the car) from putting it on backwards. I haven't always been as lucky on my other makes and models.
3:30 I used a clear all purpose Silicone in that gap on my car to hold that small movement about 2 years ago and it still doing good 👍.
Just a small amount not too much.
Eric does great work, on every vehicle he works on.
Awesome workmanship !
Thank you.
@@ericthecarguy ,,, Can valve adjustments improve plugs burning oil since the oil seals were all change ?
A valve adjustment will have no effect on an engine that burns oil. it would just make it run a little smoother if done properly.
@@ericthecarguy : Your Very Welcome.
I used that ac trick on my old 06 fl50. Took the ac from 49degrees to 40 degrees. Made for a great summer.
Excellent video Eric. Thanks for sharing Artie 🇺🇸
Many many new uses for hose clamp pliers😄 YAY 🙌. Rock auto has Denso sensors. Like $70 for my o4 civic. That was 40k ago. No check Eng light......
That will be the most maintenance free Honda on the road😉
Awesome to see the fixing it forward again Eric @EricTheCarGuy
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy you are always welcome Eric
What a work... Thanks Eric!
Like these series of videos Eric, keep em' coming!
Yay!! I’m so relieved that that bumper doesn’t have screws on it anymore.
Seems to be a common issue on 2005-2010 Odysseys
Don't fret Eric, we've all been burned by Amazon a few times. At least they accept returns!
AC in my apartment was basically not working at all, cleaned the coils ands now its super cold. It can make a massive difference.
Going to use coil cleaner on the outside unit soon
Really want one of those milwalkee cordless wrenches. So useful.
wou l am very entertained by these videos, I would really like to know how much you have put into this sling bro, I admire and respect your work a lot, always on the lookout for the next video, greetings
I've got a a few clips in the same spot on my 2012 RAV4 that are broken, and those bottom splash shields and fender lines absolutely hold it in better. No wobble at all with those in place. Definitely worth replacing those if you can find some in decent condition.
Always learn so much! I purchased a water pump for a BMW from Amazon - same issue as O2 sensor: looked exactly the same and failed in first drive. Never buy parts made in China.
Next video, Hey guys Chris Fix here helping out a friend to show you how to super clean your interior.
If he only had the time I'd let him loose on it.
Love these repair videos 👍
The amount of maintenance your doing is gonna make this think feel like a brand new one
Eric did you ever make a video on replacing the motor mounts on a Honda Odyssey? Thank you for your older Odyssey videos. Helped me greatly with repairing a 01 Odyssey
Sort of. th-cam.com/video/haCGztYY0rk/w-d-xo.html
HA HA! I agree with Zach. ETCG Christmas Album with an automotive twist. 😁
Love the videos. I'm amazed at the amount of parts still available from Honda directly; a lot of cars 15 years or older don't get OEM support like that.
Many of these parts were used over several years on Odysseys. Perhaps by design to save on parts development and manufacture cost.
I also work as a car driver in Pakistan. I like your video
man i thought working on the v6 in my tl was bad, it looks more of a night mare on here. lol. great video
12:45 Your workbench is clean and organized. NICE!!!!!
Erick, You make everything look so easy. Well...some things are easy, nonetheless awesome video. I look forward to the next one.
I had a similar issue with a cap and rotor kit from Amazon - barely made it a year before the cap burnt through. The kicker - the company wouldn't warranty it. So I wrote a one star review. Then they wanted to refund my money if I would take the bad review down. Never did get my money back.
Funny story:I changed all 4 o2 sensors on dad's yukon with ngk(or whatever their sensor division is called).
Sensor 1 no problem, sensor 2...the wire connector would only go on upside down so obviously still throwing codes.
I snapped of the plastic guide tab inside the connector, problem solved.
Moral: I was really surprised a reputable company would screw up like that.
Wrenching , before-after..like it
Hey Eric put some cutting oil on those sawzall blades and don't run them as fast but keep as much force as you can on them. They'll cut just as quickly and one blade will last 10x as long.
I have heard of cutting oil, but what is it - can you use any oil? Motor oil? What do you recommend?
@@jims2507 Anything is better than nothing. Motor oil works.
There are dedicated cutting oils, if you have a pipe threading machine or a lathe or a high volume production situation you'd definitely want real cutting oil.
There's a few types, a good one for a hobbyist/shadetree guy would be Tap Magic. The older style cutting oil is a heavy weight mineral oil with a high sulfur content. I buy it by the gallon for my pipe threading machine.
Eric, 1) you talked about valve adjustment, and why you didn't do it. How do I know when the valves are too loud, when I'm not a mechanic? 2) Thanks for showing part #s! 3) And thanks for links to tools and other videos!! Great series!!
Warning for the headphone users BEFORE using the air hammer!!
How do you expect us to appreciate your car repair'esque Christmas songs : )
This is a great series
Valve adjustment is very important on that engine. The valves never make noise when they need to be adjusted. The valve clearance gets TIGHT as the valves wear, not loose. With a cold engine, put a vacuum gauge on the engine and start it. If vacuum is low, (13-14 in.hg) and increases (to 18 in.hg as an example) as the engine warms up , it needs a valve adjustment.
Thank youuuj suppoer chill repairs. ;)
Awesome!! Job Eric
Diablo blades are the best that I've found for sawzall.. They cut very well and seem to last so much longer.
The blades I used in this video were Diablo.
@@ericthecarguy Cool.. I've had good luck with them.
Erik, thanks for explaining about why you didn't do the valve adjustment, i guessed you had a reason and am surprised you explained it to us, you must of had a lot of comments about the valves. I am surprised that you said Honda didn't have a time from from doing the adjustment as the dealer i went to wanted to do it around 100K miles kinda in line with the timing chain. I don't know, i have a Pilot and Odyssey, I did the Odyssey around 100K and didn't do the pilot until about 170K miles when the check engine light kept coming on with Multi-Cylinder misfire codes...So you of course i think are spot on your recommendation as to not do it till its a problem....if it ain't broke....
Yep. I have learned it hard way, use only OE or OEM parts and in the long run you save money :)
Your"e a Gentleman and a scholar!
yay! a fix it forward episode, been a minute. thanks for posting
This is episode 4. 😉
Going to have to pick up some hose clamp pliers now.
Link in the description.
Good work 👍
i like those battery terminals
Those are amazing looking!
Your chanel, is great! Respect you!
I used to use transmission fluid in my engine prior to an oil change on my 77 Chevy Blazer. Saw an article in popular Popular Hot Rodding magazine. Has the same results
That does work, but it does not yield the same results as a compound that was specifically made for cleaning out sludge. Thanks for the comment.
I'm using heavy metal blade with 'big' carbide teeth (bosch or milwaukee) and 1 blade is enough for cutting 20 bushings. That type what you bought is good for metals 2-3mm.
Good luck 👍
I got super lucky for my Tucson I needed a new 02 sensor and factory oem was over $200 bucks got a no name brand one for $10 on eBay and it worked for me
This video hits close to home - as I've just finished putting the 4th starter in my 2012 Civic... Spoiler: the first 3 weren't Honda starters.
I just (2019) had a rebuilt toyota starter put in the first generation sienna (1998-2002). The solenoid was misbehaving on it. I replace the battery as soon as it goes bad, keeps the starter and alternator from going out early. Still on my first alternator.
Howdy All, longtime viewer, 1st time commenter. I’ve been a professional technician and instructor for 25+ years and thoroughly enjoy your channel. Much respect for you, your channel and your content Eric!
Thought I’d reiterate some info to the community on the valve adjustment... as with many engines (including Hondas) valve face and valve seats can wear in such a way that causes the valve to sit further in the head which could cause the valve clearance to disappear. The result is a tight (though quiet) valve. While this is good from a noise standpoint, a tight valve will have reduced cooling capacity (because valves normally transfer their heat to the valve seat and head while it is closed) and could result in the valve getting burned.
The Honda 3.5’s usually exhibit random misfires when one or more valves get tight.
The bottom line here is if the manufacturer put an adjuster there, it’s for a reason. In other words, a quiet valve is not always a happy valve. Always better to check the valve clearance and adjust accordingly at regular intervals such as 60K / 90K.
Thank you for that input. As a Honda tech of 25+ years, I have yet to see an issue with J series valves that weren't the result of someone else's work. Not saying what you stated couldn't happen, but having worked on J series engines since they came out in the late 90's, I haven't experienced that issue.
Additionally, I can't count the number of times I've gotten emails from people stating that they have an issue after adjusting their valves. I don't recommend adjusting valves if you are not experienced with it. It takes a while, and several screw ups, to be proficient at it.
Thanks again for your input.
@@ericthecarguy Keep up the good work Sir!
Not saying that I haven't seen valves get tight before, especially exhaust valves, but I didn't think the adjustment was necessary on this particular engine. Valve adjustments, when done properly, can make an engine run really smooth. On this particular vehicle, it was a judgement call on my part. I hope I don't eat my words at some point. Thank you again for your input.
@@ericthecarguy "Eat my words" LOL... As you know, anyone that's been in the industry that tells you they've seen it all is lying to you!
I only brought it up because some years ago I had a Saturn SUV (a VUE I think) with a Honda J series V6 - random misfires that was cured with a valve adjustment. It had quite a few valves so tight I was unable to fit even my thinnest feeler gauge. Also, I recently picked up an '08 Odyssey (non VCM) with same issue and same cure.
Again, much respect for what you bring to the automotive community Sir, keep it up.
Come to think of it, I've seen the same in the past. However, most times I find that it's the EGR passages getting clogged that causes misfires. Particularly on the older models. The newer ones don't seem to have the same problem.
I've been thinking about it and I may do a valve adjustment on this engine anyway. Not just because, as you rightly pointed out, it's not a bad idea, but it would also be an opportunity to inspect how effective the sludge treatment was.
Thank you for your input and not being a troll about it. Much respect.
Eric, over 20 years experience as a QE with tier 1 suppliers to Honda. 99.9% of the time, the lower number part number is right hand for parts that come as L & R. The reason is in Japan is right hand drive.
I did not know that. Thanks!
I have an 08 Odyssey; I don't like how small the oil filter is for this van but I didn't engineer the engine; I REALLY don't like that the oil drains over the suspension member. Also my PCV is on the top of the engine though I also have VCM on mine. I keep these videos for if/when i need to do work on my Odyssey, they'll be a handy guide at the very least.
Hey Eric, that bolt came out. You can stop sawing on it. 😉
Thank you!
my pleasure 👍
Great content, thanks.
Eric thank you for sharing your wonderful videos and showing me your Bosch scanner I would love to have a Bosch scanner tool like yours I am from South Africa
I chased a terrible clunk noise from the rear of my Odyssey for months. Turns out it was the plastic saddle for the coil springs at 16:50. They were destroyed and the metal on metal nose was even felt in the floor. They are now on my 50k replacement schedule.
"Well that was a time suck!" 😂
That battle was EPIC 😅
Eric, you ran into a problem with Amazon on the O2 sensors that seems to be a problem with a number of items sold on that site. Items being sold as name brand or that look exactly like name brand are, in fact, not. PUR water filters is an example I most recently ran into. Prices for these filters on Amazon are all over the board (or at least were when last I shopped for them), making it hard to resist not going with the lowest price.
As always, another great video!
I like light comedy x3
Love your video's Eric!!
Yay for rusty old Honda repair.
Two rules that should never be broken. Always replace your gaskets with new ones. Don't use cheap aftermarket sensors. Or you get to re and re again.
Looking forward to your Christmas Album Eric!
19:33 "why couldn't they make the inner bolts out of this stuff?" They could have, but an efficiency engineer (see also bean counter) noted that bolts closer to the center of the car don't corrode as quickly as those near the outside of the car, and they could save $0.05 per bolt, @ 2 per unit, with ~135,000 units being produced, results in a manufacturing cost savings of $13,500 per year for just those bolts. Several similar decisions are made to reduce the manufacturing cost so the product can be competitive.
Great series, my wife an I are contemplating a minivan, leaning towards a Sienna V6 AWD, so prior gen
I had the same problem with O2 sensors. Except I wasted much more time to come to that conclusion.
Careful with the taillight this time eric, there's a little lock stud in the headlight that slots into the body. you gotta use a little plastic pry tool between the light and the rail body and give it a little pry, don't yank on the light.
Your Bosch system was telling you use Bosch O2 sensors. ♠️☯️🎩
Good stuff Eric!