3:10 mini splits don't typically get outside air indoors, they circulate indoor air. I only know of 2 models that can actually do this, the Daikin ururu sarara and the TCL c fresh, neither of which are sold in the US. Am I missing something?
Thank you for pointing this out. It is necessary to clarify this detail for everyone watching because this is a common misconception. The video should have said "It recirculates inside air"
I heard this error also and just rushed to the comments to say they do not pull air from outside. Hence why they are not 100% safe as they do not exchange air.
But, uh, homes aren't hermetically sealed, so you still get outside air in some ways, right? And... I suppose you can always open a window now and then... Edit: and anyway I almost rushed to the comments to say "delicious delicious city air from outside!"
@@The_Varzayou are correct. Most homes are not tight enough. Newer homes are getting tighter though but they come with energy recovery ventilators so they bring in a controlled amount of fresh air. We actually are installing a lot of these in existing new and older homes.
Mitsubishi, king of mini splits....22SEER, just put one in my living room 15kBTU, Hi2 hyper heat...been using 5 different mitsus for years, save a fortune on heating and cooling...QUIET, efficient, reliable...
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very informative and concise/simple and structured presentation easy to understand even for a non-native English speaker like myself.
I've had a Mitsubishi mini split system in my 1900 build home for two years now. Basically I'm happy with it, and the windows and doorways did give the installers quite a time. The one thing I would certainly change would be a floor unit in my LR instead of the wall mount - my feet are always cold in the winter. The indoor units really "disappear" after a few weeks, I don't even notice them. The outside units are extremely quiet. I like that I don't have to heat or cool rooms not being used. The cost can be a tad shocking depending on how many indoor units and outdoor units you need, Of course, everything is extra. Even though I had a company that was rated a Gold installer by Mitsubishi it was a mess that they had to come out and clean up and fix a lot of things on the outside. Make sure you watch what is being done.
You're correct. That is true for the units shown in the video. FYI, we do install 4 way ceiling cassettes which have a small opening for fresh air intake (no exhaust)
That's right. They only recycle indoor air. They pull energy form the outside or release energy as heat but don't actually move air between indoors and outdoors.
I'm confused. Can you clarify? At minute 3:16 you say the mini split pulls air from outside... but prior to that you say, "In the summer months, the indoor air handler is going to pull warm air from inside the house and send it towards, and replace it with cool air." Are you implying with that sentence that the replacement air is coming from outside? Ie, how does it actually get cooled? For those of us in terrible air quality from fires, this would need to be factored in or we are pulling bad air into the house.
That particular spot was a mistake. Thank you for asking. Most minisplits do not pull air from the outside, they just recirculate and condition inside air which is great for concerns with wildfire smoke.
I'm a DIY'r and installed my own mini-split. I spent $800 for a 2 ton. Did all the installation myself and saved thousands with no problems. I don't recommend DIY unless you know what you are doing (it wasn't that difficult). Still, mini- splits are the most efficient ac and heating you can buy.
Larry, great point! DIY can be good for low upfront investment. About experience in our market a lot of the DIY projects don't end up saving people money on their bills and sometimes the sizing is not accurate so the system short cycles. We've also had issues where the equipment fails either due to manufacturing defects or installation oversight. The support is almost non-existent for some of those brands but it varies obviously from case to case. We've heard good stories and horrible stories so depending on the long-term goals you could save money up front and have a good experience but in most of the situations we've come across people are not really happy long-term.
@@miles267 you're correct. There is some disregard in the industry when it comes to DIY brands. There are two sides to it. Some clients we meet say they had good luck with. Majority regret it after just a few years. Because we usually get called after the fact, our stats include mostly unhappy home owners who have have no luck getting support for the manufacturer or the online place they bought it.
That is often, but not always true - especially if you live in an area with high electrical costs and very cold winters. On the other hand, many Canadians have mini-splits and love them.
How can they cover the comfortably entire house? I'm just thinking about doing this but even with a small unit but if I don't keep all the doors open they don't know how many I would have to have. On 800 sq ft . I would. Need a head on the other side of the building from the compressor. And then do you lose efficiency if you're running lines through a cold or heated attic to get to other rooms to put another head in? Or do you wrap All the way around the exterior which I think would look odd. And as far as comfort, don't you create some kind of wind chill effect when you're pushing hot air down because heat rises. Does the heat feel as warm when it's always blowing? I always thought that just using an air purifier in the house in the winter I feel chillier because the air is circulating not warmer. If I have limited space the area where I think it would have to go would be blowing right on top of me when sitting. Either cold or hot doesn't seem like it would be as comfortable because I'd be at the source where it would be hottest or coldest. And then the rooms further off without a head are going to feel hotter or cooler depending on the season, correct?
You are bringing up soany good points. I thought we covered the topic sufficiently but you rais some really good points. I'm going to record a new video to answer all of your questions. @ALL please subscribe to our channel to get notified when the video with the responses goes live 👍😀 in the mean time if you need help with your project feel free to call or text me 360-398-9400.
We have 9 total mini splits in our house (we have 2 outdoor units to handle them). We are so happy with them...EXCEPT...2 of the mini splits are the ceiling mounted - which is in 2 upstairs bedrooms. There are no issues with the cooling feature, but the heat feature has given us problems for 3 winters now. No matter how low you set the heat temperature on the wall thermostat, the actual temperature in the room just continues to rise. It's a huge problem when we have guests. We have the heat set at 68 degrees, but after about an hour or so, the actual temperature rises to over 80 degrees. Then we have to just turn the unit off. Our installers have spent hours trying to figure it out, to no avail. Do you have any suggestions???
@@ToddCoston absolutely. Thank you for asking this is actually a very common problem with multi-zone design. If you can give me more information about the size of those two units how many BTUs they are and the rest of the indoor units connected to the same system then I need to know the model number of the outdoor unit that services all of these then I can get you some answers.
@@danielthommen8243 the professional grade equipment does not come with lines. We cuss them order and custom design all lines for each job. We don't work with do it yourself models but from what I know they sometimes come with free determined line lengths. We don't recommend working with the DYI brands for many reasons
Great question. To my knowledge this is not possible. I'm not saying it wouldn't work but most likely the wiring and communication speak a different language. I don't see how this would work.
There should be little, if any, communication between the inside and outside units. Are the wire terminal labels standard, as they are for most central air systems?
Are there any disadvantage to the ceiling Cassettes? Do you lose any efficiency in unconditioned attic space. Does it matter that the refrigeration lines will get hotter than the outside air in the summer?
Thank you for the question. By looking at the actual manufacturer specs for the ceiling units versus the wall mount units it is obvious that wall mountain needs get rated at a higher efficiency. The difference isn't much but you're correct in your assessment. Most people make the choice between wall mountain ceiling mounds based on look and how it fits the space and how the air flow will go through the room. There are also situations where the structure of the home may allow one to be installed more easily versus another. Please reach out with further questions, hope this was useful for you! If you haven't already please support your efforts by liking the video. 😁
I am referring to the indoor unit on the wall. Your line set goes through the wall and immediately left. How does the water flow over that horizontal run?
@@htiek65 cuz those dealerships gotcha! That's a great question. All horizontal lines are pitched down approximately a quarter inch per foot which is industry standard for proper water flow through pipes.
Mini splits circulate the air inside your room, it don't pull any air from outside at all. You still have a filter to clean and 2 coils that have the opportunity to get dusty and clogged up.
@@jaredtandle2596 they are different than the standard forced air units that most techs are accustomed to. They can be a little tighter to work on. Some brands are easier than other to work on and it seems like the engineers gave some consideration to us service techs.
@cleanairheatingcooling4105 I think that's a lot of the issue. Also when checking charge you can't really go off pressures and subcool/superheat. The efficiency comes from the variable compressor and fans. I wish they would make an easy to get to test mode for techs to go full blast like Weil McClain has but idk if there's an issue with that and not getting the proper read outs. If you are low on charge I guess you get to do more work anyway but it'd be nice if you didn't have to weigh the refrigerant to check charge. The tight quarters are a big piece of it but you have so many fittings for your lineset to check instead of as little as 4/5. (The 5th being where the orifice goes)
Very helpful video. One question I have is can I connect 3 mini-heads to a one-zone unit. I understand if this was possible all 3 heads would run at the same temperature. Thanks.
Good question. Simple answer, no, that's not possible. This would be a fun shop project to see what happens but not recommended by any means. Not a viable option to have a reliable unit.
We have some of these at work, and when it is below zero they need the back up baseboard heaters on the keep the temperature livable. Not made for Canada.
You guys definitely have more extreme temperature swings depending on where you’re at. Could you share what area you’re in? I know that some of these models have been tested -18 Fahrenheit, which is right around -28 Celsius and they were still putting out decent amount of heat. I have been a technician for quite a long time and I have found so many other factors that cause these units to appear as if they are not performing. I’d be more than happy to look into it further for you if you give me more context.
Great question. Even at -10F there is heat content in the outside air which the heat pump can extract. Heat = molecular movement. Heat is present all the way down to 0 deg Kalvin.
These are very common in apartment buildings. Over the last few years I'm noticing more and more douglasmin split heat pumps being installed in apartment buildings especially in new ones. But these are easily added to all the apartment buildings and we've done quite a few of those jobs.
I can’t install a wall unit at the recommended 6 ft high into the wall. Would it be okay to install it in the 28 inch space between the floor and the bottom of a window? The room is 160 square feet. It also has a large ceiling fan to help distribute air.
I wish I could say yes to this question. Most manufacturers Don't recommend installing it below the window like you said. They make floor mount units which actually mount on the wall but they are mounted within two to six inches of the floor. We installed these all the time and they look great and they work well. They're perfect for areas where there's no wall space up above too many windows or too many ornaments and pictures or in bonus rooms and converted attic spaces.
Great info, thanks for correcting the air in/out error in Q&A. Question: Do i understand you correctly that one can cool only the zones needed? For example turn on 3 zones and keep 2 zones off? What does that do the efficiency of the unit.
Correct. You can have any zones on or off based on your need. When you have less indoor zones calling for heating or cooling, it frees up the capacity of the outer unit so it can satisfy those zones quicker. In terms of efficiency I don't think that's going to be affected as far as how much energy the unit is consuming to achieve the same result. But to answer that question accurately the manufacture and the testers for certified equipment would have to test the equipment in those months of operation.
In many areas, especially those that give a rebate for installation, inverter powered systems are required. The inverter varies power depending on the necessary load, so runs efficiently. So on/off cycling of the compressor is minimized. I seem to recall that some units have an override that allows a person to set it to peak heating/cooling output.
Can you tell me why manufacturers require that wall distribution units be mounted on an exterior wall? Some will even void a warranty if that instruction is violated. There is no physics or physical reason for this requirement. This is shown by the allowance of ceiling cassettes.
I don't think that any of the reputable brands we work with have that requirement. In our world, it's recommend to mount on exterior walls to make the condensate train and lineset run and connections easier to install and service in the future. But we install them on interior walls all the time and that's up to manufacturer standards.
Ideally you should use two appropriately sized units, one for each unit. This way you can set individual temps in each room. Or you can use a small slim ducted air handler which will provide a supply duct and a return duct in each room. Then both rooms will be controlled by the same thermostat. You could add a remote sensor for the second room.
Is there any advantage to using two outdoor condensers for a 2 or 3-zone system? A contractor claims this allows the system to continue operating if one condenser goes down.
Scott, yes you get redundancy. If you get a Mitsubishi this won't come into play hardly ever. If the system is designed, installed and service correctly you won't have to worry. Biggest advantage would be that you get more capacity or can go with a smaller unit that actually has more capacity. If you have multiple zones it will allow you to have more accurate control and if you have 2 or more floors they will work better independently of each other.
It would allow the second compressor to continue running, but it would only heat the one or two zones connected to it. You could then get some heat into the other zone/zones using fans - or just abandon the unheated/uncooled room(s) until the other compressor was fixed. As far as I know, you cannot feed two compressors to one air handling unit.
Great video! Do you have a similar video for a condo tower? How does the floor level you are on impact sizing eg 17th floor versus 3rd floor? We are in the PNW in Canada and never turn our heat on because it never cools below 20C in our apartment. We have many weeks over 30C due to internal heat gain. Also, how does orientation eg South West versus North East impact sizing? We have had 4 HVAC installers in and the price varied from $25k to $30k Cad for 1 outdoor and 3 indoor units. The BTUs recommended per room varied wildly. We do not know who to trust.
I love the question you asked. You have just made an excellent point for all other homeowners to be very cautious when choosing the contractor. If everyone does the right thing they should all come to the same conclusion. The fact that you see a vast difference in proposals, prices and types of equipment recommended, proves that not everyone has the same thing and they can't all be right. Since we can't work in Canada I would still be more than happy to help you with sizing of your system. All the things you mentioned about the surrounding condos, orientation and all of the other structural elements will affect proper sizing. You don't want to oversize it, you don't want to undersize it, so the calculations have to be exact. If you want to shoot me a text or a call at 360-398-9400 I'll be more than happy to have a detailed conversation about the things to look for since it may be too much to respond in the comments. I can always call you since it long distance. Just you know, we have other videos on the channel that relate to the sizing and our process for ensuring the right equipment. Feel free to browse through the other videos that we have on the channel. I look forward to speaking with you into more detail to give you the certainty that you're going with the right contractor. 👍😀
Well. In winter, it's cold outside, so it doesn't make sense for him to say the system gets warm air from the outside. It would make more sense to increase the heat of inside air.
Q?? ONE OF OUR MITSUBISHI INDOOR UNITS MAKES CONSTANT TAPPING NOISES.. NOW IN 30's ALL ARE TAPPING TO SOME DEGREE. Contractor of no help. Manufacturer said installation issue. It's not plastic expansion or contraction. Totally different sound.
I don’t know if this is true, but the Mitsubishi unit could be tapping to your music. Have you tried changing the music to see if the tempo increases or decreases? Or turn the music off then back in really fast, see of the tapping follows. 👞👞👞👞👞🥁🪘 On a serious note (😁🎵🎶) The tapping could be the EEVs electronic expansion valves or something else in the system. I would need more context to be able to give you accurate advice. If you can give me more details on how many in the unit and outdoor units have and we’re tapping is most hard to help you further. And also welcome to call or text me at 360-398-9400 and I can help you further. You can text me pictures there too so I know what I’m looking at.
For mine, the tapping was actually from the cover. It makes it a little more of a pain to get to the filter, but totally worth it in sanity. I used very sticky double sided tape (almost more of a gel than a tape, but I have no idea where I got it) where the lid meets the unit inside and also taped the outside in key spots until the tapping stopped. I considered trying velcro too, but the tape worked. After I taped the inside, the tapping was muted by 80%. When the lid was taped and closed, I then pressed my finger in different spots until I found where it was still rattling and then taped those spots on the outside (if I couldn't tape them on the inside). Hope that helps. If you get the chance, let me know if it does.
It depends on the model. Some of the smaller ductless units in our market at this time in the fall of 2023 cost around $5,000 to $9,000, fully installed. There are variables from house to house that could change that price. Obviously the bigger the unit or the more complex the job and the access the higher the price. Multizone systems usually start at about $12,000 and can go up to $60,000 for an eight zone system.
I have 5 mini splits and we are having a debate whether the units operate independent of one another. Is one unit the brains of the other. I say no, but the other opinion is that my bedroom unit is priority because it is closest to the outside compressor. The reason it is thought that way is trial and error on his unit that will not work properly unless my bedroom unit in set in the same"mode". Whats the correct answer and why might the upstairs unit not run properly (or at all) unless i have mine set in the same mode? Thank you. Also i enjoyed your clear video.
You said it very well. All units must be in the same mode or they won't all work. Basically if one unit is running in hitting and you change another to cooling that won't change over to cooling until the one that has been working is also changed over.
Yep, a mini compressor cannot run in heating and cooling modes at the same time. If they are in the same mode, then they can operate independently.@@cleanairheatingcooling4105
@@cleanairheatingcooling4105 That's the only way I took it, as I don't see how you would mean that otherwise. That is very misleading and would actually turn me away from mini-splits if I didn't know any better. I live in an area that experienced wildfire smoke a few times a year that that would be a BAD thing to have outdoor air coming inside.
Since when have mini split systems pulled in fresh air? they recirculate the air from the room the head unit is in, the only thing coming from outside are 2 copper pipes either hot or cold.
@@Kayak51 - Hi Colin. Thank you for a great overview video. I was not aware that any mini-split indoor air handlers included a fresh air intake option. I'm interested in this possibility. Can you provide more info on the brand and style of indoor unit that can bring in outside air? Are these ductless options, or are they cassettes meant to deliver air via short ducts to each room? Thank you!
@@Kayak51 No mini-split systems pull air from the outside, period. Pulling air from the outside would require the addition of ducting to the outside thus defeating the purpose of a mini-split (aka ductless) system.
@@joebaseball17 you're right! The only ones that do are the hybrid systems like slim duct and multiposition air handlers. Floor mounted and wall mounted ones don't.
Why are these alway put high on the wall? If it's hot, cool air coming out of the machine will come out cool, instantly meet hot air, and it will warm and rise. Why not position it lower? Wouldn't it be more efficient?
This is such a great question! Thank you for asking. They do make units which are installed lower just like you asked. In the high wall mount units, the idea is to break up the hot air above with the louvers blowing horizontally across the room. This works well in most situations. There are more settings possible that can be customized for each space to be as effective as necessary for that environment.
Line hide, better looking, Mitsubishi have a really sturdy line hide stuff, over rectorseal brand , which is fine, but the Mitsubishi is a thicker material
The first thing you need to decide on a mini split is to find a reputable Refrigeration professional that knows that a mini split does not "pull outside air into the home" and it doesn't "take heat from the outside and bring it into the home." It does it through heat transfer with refrigerant. 😎
@@thehousedr4 That's right most mini splits don't pull air from the outside. There are some ceiling cassettes which do. But for the purpose of this video that was a mistake. Thank you for pointing that out.
Do these really save you money on heating bills? I have a small 900 sf, 2 bdr, 1 bth, single story older home near the coast. It only has the single wall mounted hallway gas heater. I am really leaning towards a 3-zone unit, maybe 24k or so. I mainly want it for heat since we average 48 at night and 65 day but with ocasional crazy 90+ degree days. Are these a good fit based on this?
Do you sleep in both bedrooms? If not, that would allow a unit in the main bedroom, bathroom (if large enough) and living area. Other combinations would be possible, depending on layout and room sizes. You always have the option to just leave a door open and possibly blow conditioned air into smaller spaces. A 4 zone unit (or even 5) might be worth consideration for the flexibility.
I never understood the mini part of mini split, we don’t call them that where I’m from. I think I get it now. Mini isn’t the capacity, it’s the physical size of the indoor unit.
I encountered these systems when I was in Cambodia, and I HATED them. They are DRAFTY. If you home currently has only baseboard heating, I and you want to save money, then they are good. However, in the long run, going whole hog putting in ductwork, installing a GAS furnace and a standard AC system will save you money, which is what I did 15 years ago, and I thank God I did. Natural Gas is 1/3 to 1/4 the cost per BTU than electricity to heat. My winter utility bill would be $200 more a month during the winter if I used a heat pump (which is what a mini-split systems are).
@@richinoregon you are making an excellent point! I think from watching utilities in different areas of the country and different states or even different countries across the world the recommendation might vary based on more unique markets where the cost of energy varies by a lot. It's always good to do a good energy evaluation prior to purchasing these to make sure that it makes sense. There's other benefits other than savings so there's a lot of things to consider when deciding what system to get.
@@cleanairheatingcooling4105 Here is another consideration. If you live in the desert southwest, AC may not be the best choice--an evaporative cooler may be. I lived for 4 years in Nevada and had an evaporative cooler (swamp cooler) for cooling, and they could get COLD. The outside air temperature would be over 100 deg F during the day (I was in the high desert) but the temperature of the air coming out of the ductwork was 47 deg F. The only power they consume is to run the fan.
@@cleanairheatingcooling4105 Please add a correction to the video Isn't it possible to add a popup or banner to the video. Not everyone has time to watch the video, research the incorrect information and then to read the comments. Also, to be honest, I won't look at your videos since they aren't trustworthy. I see someone commented on the incorrect informatioon 10 months ago but no correction. That was with a quick look at some of the comments.
It depends on the model. Ideally low fan speed to increase the ability to remove humidity. You can also try the dehumidification mode if your unit has it.
Did you run the condensation tube to the outside - with a downwards slope all the way? Is water dripping out of that tube? If the answer is Yes to both questions, then you may need a dehumidifier to get rid of the excess moisture.
@@DoritoHunter it depends on the unit capacity, how many zones, how difficult or easy it is to install and which part of the country or world you live in. The same exact unit may have a different cost in two different houses next to each other due to the floor plan, construction details, etc
"in the winter, the outdoor unit will pull warm air from the outside and send it to the indoor unit" wait, what? warm winter air? what are ya smokin fella...
I want to be a refrigeration HVAC technician, just like you are smart. Where do I get the knowledge.I want to be a refrigeration HVAC technician, just like you are smart. Where do I get the knowledge. I want too
You can join a local trade school which has an HVAC program. Or you may join a local company which can provide training. If you live in the PNW or want to relocate here You're welcome to apply on our website. 😀👍
If you have community colleges in your area - one may have a refrigeration program. Part of that training would most likely be working part time for a local HVAC business.
BTW, if I'm shopping for one, I have a long room (used to be a single-car garage turned into bedroom about 10x25) and live in Miami, what is a good recommendation? BTI's?
@@sorayaautana7621 my biggest recommendation is to never guess and don't hire a "professional" who guesses based on square ft. It requires a complete heat load calculation which takes into account dosens of inputs in addition to sq footage. For example, wall type, exposure, insulation levels, floor type, soil tipe, reflective surfaces outside, type of roof, historical temperature and humidity outside, your target temperature inside, indoor humidity, occupancy, activity type.... So best thing is to find a reputable local contractor who knows and does the design correctly the backs it up with a guarantee so that if they sized it wrong they will upgrade you free if charge. That's how you know they believe in their recommendation 👍🤠
@@Kayak51 thank you sooo much! that's what happened and now I have a Mitsubishi that is so quiet and powerful that I am in love with it!. Thank you thank you thank you!
He has no idea what’s he is talking about… there’s NO air exchange between outdoor and indoor air. Outdoor unit doesn’t not send ANY air to indoor unit or viceversa. It sends refrigerant and transfers heat. I tough that was being used to simplify explanation but then he said that mini splits bring fresh air from outside for air quality and realized he has no clue. The FS Deluxe wall mounted unit shown in video is the best Mitsubishi offers has an upgraded filter, Mainly protects the unit not nearly close a proper ducted air filtration solution. And finishes up video saying outdoor unit needs proper airflow to be sent to indoor unit…. Lol 😂 Total misinformation.
@@cleanairheatingcooling4105 At about 1 minute 30 seconds in you seem to say that air is transferred between the two parts. I have a mini-split where the heat is transferred by the cooling fluid but no air actually passes between the two parts if the device. I am sure you understand the system better than I do and this was just a slip. In short, no air passes from the outside to the inside or visa versa. This is why you do not need big holes in your walls which make the system much less of a problem to fit.
3:10 mini splits don't typically get outside air indoors, they circulate indoor air. I only know of 2 models that can actually do this, the Daikin ururu sarara and the TCL c fresh, neither of which are sold in the US. Am I missing something?
Accurate observation. That statement was a mistake.
Thank you for pointing this out. It is necessary to clarify this detail for everyone watching because this is a common misconception. The video should have said "It recirculates inside air"
I heard this error also and just rushed to the comments to say they do not pull air from outside. Hence why they are not 100% safe as they do not exchange air.
But, uh, homes aren't hermetically sealed, so you still get outside air in some ways, right? And... I suppose you can always open a window now and then... Edit: and anyway I almost rushed to the comments to say "delicious delicious city air from outside!"
@@The_Varzayou are correct. Most homes are not tight enough. Newer homes are getting tighter though but they come with energy recovery ventilators so they bring in a controlled amount of fresh air. We actually are installing a lot of these in existing new and older homes.
Mitsubishi, king of mini splits....22SEER, just put one in my living room 15kBTU, Hi2 hyper heat...been using 5 different mitsus for years, save a fortune on heating and cooling...QUIET, efficient, reliable...
We couldn't say it any better! 😀
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very informative and concise/simple and structured presentation easy to understand even for a non-native English speaker like myself.
I've had a Mitsubishi mini split system in my 1900 build home for two years now. Basically I'm happy with it, and the windows and doorways did give the installers quite a time. The one thing I would certainly change would be a floor unit in my LR instead of the wall mount - my feet are always cold in the winter. The indoor units really "disappear" after a few weeks, I don't even notice them. The outside units are extremely quiet. I like that I don't have to heat or cool rooms not being used. The cost can be a tad shocking depending on how many indoor units and outdoor units you need, Of course, everything is extra. Even though I had a company that was rated a Gold installer by Mitsubishi it was a mess that they had to come out and clean up and fix a lot of things on the outside. Make sure you watch what is being done.
Great feedback and advice! So true! Howa y zones do you have indoors and how any outdoor units?
The unit neither brings outdoor air in, or sends indoor air out. You said it in the video. The split unit cycles the air in the room only.
You're correct. That is true for the units shown in the video. FYI, we do install 4 way ceiling cassettes which have a small opening for fresh air intake (no exhaust)
He never said that,he said heat exchange coils
@@saintpeter9157 all units have heat exchange coils. It depends on what you mean but people use different terms to refer to the same thing.
3:12 he specifically says the mini split system pulls fresh air from the outside.. Completely false info.
That's right. They only recycle indoor air.
They pull energy form the outside or release energy as heat but don't actually move air between indoors and outdoors.
Thank you SOOOOOO much. This was exactly the education I needed.
Wow!! This is an amazing and thorough explanation and I wish you all serviced Denver!! Great job and thank you!!
Hopefully soon 😃
I'm confused. Can you clarify? At minute 3:16 you say the mini split pulls air from outside... but prior to that you say, "In the summer months, the indoor air handler is going to pull warm air from inside the house and send it towards, and replace it with cool air." Are you implying with that sentence that the replacement air is coming from outside? Ie, how does it actually get cooled? For those of us in terrible air quality from fires, this would need to be factored in or we are pulling bad air into the house.
That particular spot was a mistake. Thank you for asking. Most minisplits do not pull air from the outside, they just recirculate and condition inside air which is great for concerns with wildfire smoke.
I'm a DIY'r and installed my own mini-split. I spent $800 for a 2 ton. Did all the installation myself and saved thousands with no problems. I don't recommend DIY unless you know what you are doing (it wasn't that difficult). Still, mini- splits are the most efficient ac and heating you can buy.
Larry, great point! DIY can be good for low upfront investment. About experience in our market a lot of the DIY projects don't end up saving people money on their bills and sometimes the sizing is not accurate so the system short cycles. We've also had issues where the equipment fails either due to manufacturing defects or installation oversight. The support is almost non-existent for some of those brands but it varies obviously from case to case. We've heard good stories and horrible stories so depending on the long-term goals you could save money up front and have a good experience but in most of the situations we've come across people are not really happy long-term.
Mr Cool is a game changer. HVAC hate them because of that.
@@miles267 you're correct. There is some disregard in the industry when it comes to DIY brands. There are two sides to it. Some clients we meet say they had good luck with. Majority regret it after just a few years. Because we usually get called after the fact, our stats include mostly unhappy home owners who have have no luck getting support for the manufacturer or the online place they bought it.
That is often, but not always true - especially if you live in an area with high electrical costs and very cold winters. On the other hand, many Canadians have mini-splits and love them.
thank you so much for the information
It's our pleasure! Thank you for stopping by and supporting our channel! 🙏
How can they cover the comfortably entire house?
I'm just thinking about doing this but even with a small unit but if I don't keep all the doors open they don't know how many I would have to have. On 800 sq ft . I would. Need a head on the other side of the building from the compressor. And then do you lose efficiency if you're running lines through a cold or heated attic to get to other rooms to put another head in? Or do you wrap All the way around the exterior which I think would look odd.
And as far as comfort, don't you create some kind of wind chill effect when you're pushing hot air down because heat rises. Does the heat feel as warm when it's always blowing?
I always thought that just using an air purifier in the house in the winter I feel chillier because the air is circulating not warmer. If I have limited space the area where I think it would have to go would be blowing right on top of me when sitting. Either cold or hot doesn't seem like it would be as comfortable because I'd be at the source where it would be hottest or coldest. And then the rooms further off without a head are going to feel hotter or cooler depending on the season, correct?
You are bringing up soany good points. I thought we covered the topic sufficiently but you rais some really good points. I'm going to record a new video to answer all of your questions. @ALL please subscribe to our channel to get notified when the video with the responses goes live 👍😀 in the mean time if you need help with your project feel free to call or text me 360-398-9400.
We have 9 total mini splits in our house (we have 2 outdoor units to handle them). We are so happy with them...EXCEPT...2 of the mini splits are the ceiling mounted - which is in 2 upstairs bedrooms. There are no issues with the cooling feature, but the heat feature has given us problems for 3 winters now. No matter how low you set the heat temperature on the wall thermostat, the actual temperature in the room just continues to rise. It's a huge problem when we have guests. We have the heat set at 68 degrees, but after about an hour or so, the actual temperature rises to over 80 degrees. Then we have to just turn the unit off. Our installers have spent hours trying to figure it out, to no avail. Do you have any suggestions???
@@ToddCoston absolutely. Thank you for asking this is actually a very common problem with multi-zone design. If you can give me more information about the size of those two units how many BTUs they are and the rest of the indoor units connected to the same system then I need to know the model number of the outdoor unit that services all of these then I can get you some answers.
Good video.
Thank you 🧡
do those refrid lines come predetermined in length? Or can I cut them and add more lines if needed?
@@danielthommen8243 the professional grade equipment does not come with lines. We cuss them order and custom design all lines for each job. We don't work with do it yourself models but from what I know they sometimes come with free determined line lengths. We don't recommend working with the DYI brands for many reasons
can you use different brands outside unit with different brand inside unit as long as there the same tonage mini split units?
Great question. To my knowledge this is not possible. I'm not saying it wouldn't work but most likely the wiring and communication speak a different language. I don't see how this would work.
There should be little, if any, communication between the inside and outside units. Are the wire terminal labels standard, as they are for most central air systems?
Are there any disadvantage to the ceiling Cassettes? Do you lose any efficiency in unconditioned attic space. Does it matter that the refrigeration lines will get hotter than the outside air in the summer?
Thank you for the question. By looking at the actual manufacturer specs for the ceiling units versus the wall mount units it is obvious that wall mountain needs get rated at a higher efficiency. The difference isn't much but you're correct in your assessment. Most people make the choice between wall mountain ceiling mounds based on look and how it fits the space and how the air flow will go through the room. There are also situations where the structure of the home may allow one to be installed more easily versus another. Please reach out with further questions, hope this was useful for you! If you haven't already please support your efforts by liking the video. 😁
How does the condensate drain over that horizontal run??
Are you referring to the ceiling units?
I am referring to the indoor unit on the wall. Your line set goes through the wall and immediately left. How does the water flow over that horizontal run?
@@htiek65 cuz those dealerships gotcha! That's a great question. All horizontal lines are pitched down approximately a quarter inch per foot which is industry standard for proper water flow through pipes.
I’d order one for every room if this handsome stud-finder was doing each of the installs.
OMW
Mini splits circulate the air inside your room, it don't pull any air from outside at all. You still have a filter to clean and 2 coils that have the opportunity to get dusty and clogged up.
You're correct.
@cleanairheatingcooling4105 lol yeah, I know. Kinda work on those damn things. (Not to be a smart ass just not a fan of servicing them.)
@@jaredtandle2596 they are different than the standard forced air units that most techs are accustomed to. They can be a little tighter to work on. Some brands are easier than other to work on and it seems like the engineers gave some consideration to us service techs.
@cleanairheatingcooling4105 I think that's a lot of the issue. Also when checking charge you can't really go off pressures and subcool/superheat. The efficiency comes from the variable compressor and fans. I wish they would make an easy to get to test mode for techs to go full blast like Weil McClain has but idk if there's an issue with that and not getting the proper read outs. If you are low on charge I guess you get to do more work anyway but it'd be nice if you didn't have to weigh the refrigerant to check charge. The tight quarters are a big piece of it but you have so many fittings for your lineset to check instead of as little as 4/5. (The 5th being where the orifice goes)
@@jaredtandle2596 yep! We've been doing that for years unfortunately. But recently we learned a way to verify charge without pulling the charge. 😁
Very helpful video. One question I have is can I connect 3 mini-heads to a one-zone unit. I understand if this was possible all 3 heads would run at the same temperature. Thanks.
Good question. Simple answer, no, that's not possible.
This would be a fun shop project to see what happens but not recommended by any means. Not a viable option to have a reliable unit.
In theory, it would kind of work. In reality, the temperature in each room would likely be wildly different. @@cleanairheatingcooling4105
We have some of these at work, and when it is below zero they need the back up baseboard heaters on the keep the temperature livable. Not made for Canada.
You guys definitely have more extreme temperature swings depending on where you’re at. Could you share what area you’re in? I know that some of these models have been tested -18 Fahrenheit, which is right around -28 Celsius and they were still putting out decent amount of heat. I have been a technician for quite a long time and I have found so many other factors that cause these units to appear as if they are not performing. I’d be more than happy to look into it further for you if you give me more context.
1:25 what warm air is outside during the winter?
Great question. Even at -10F there is heat content in the outside air which the heat pump can extract. Heat = molecular movement. Heat is present all the way down to 0 deg Kalvin.
How about Apartment building?. I need this for winter, I have loft very cold Winter or Summer is super cold. I need this. Your help, thank you
These are very common in apartment buildings. Over the last few years I'm noticing more and more douglasmin split heat pumps being installed in apartment buildings especially in new ones. But these are easily added to all the apartment buildings and we've done quite a few of those jobs.
Does the conduit need more all weather covers?
Are you referring to the electrical conduit or the line set cover?
Do you need to put an oil trap if condenser is 7 feet above the coil
This varies by model and its manufacturers specifications. I don't have a yes or no answer because it varies by the exact model you're using.
I can’t install a wall unit at the recommended 6 ft high into the wall. Would it be okay to install it in the 28 inch space between the floor and the bottom of a window? The room is 160 square feet. It also has a large ceiling fan to help distribute air.
I wish I could say yes to this question. Most manufacturers Don't recommend installing it below the window like you said. They make floor mount units which actually mount on the wall but they are mounted within two to six inches of the floor. We installed these all the time and they look great and they work well. They're perfect for areas where there's no wall space up above too many windows or too many ornaments and pictures or in bonus rooms and converted attic spaces.
Great info, thanks for correcting the air in/out error in Q&A.
Question: Do i understand you correctly that one can cool only the zones needed? For example turn on 3 zones and keep 2 zones off? What does that do the efficiency of the unit.
Correct. You can have any zones on or off based on your need. When you have less indoor zones calling for heating or cooling, it frees up the capacity of the outer unit so it can satisfy those zones quicker. In terms of efficiency I don't think that's going to be affected as far as how much energy the unit is consuming to achieve the same result. But to answer that question accurately the manufacture and the testers for certified equipment would have to test the equipment in those months of operation.
Thanks.
In many areas, especially those that give a rebate for installation, inverter powered systems are required. The inverter varies power depending on the necessary load, so runs efficiently. So on/off cycling of the compressor is minimized. I seem to recall that some units have an override that allows a person to set it to peak heating/cooling output.
Can you tell me why manufacturers require that wall distribution units be mounted on an exterior wall? Some will even void a warranty if that instruction is violated.
There is no physics or physical reason for this requirement. This is shown by the allowance of ceiling cassettes.
I don't think that any of the reputable brands we work with have that requirement. In our world, it's recommend to mount on exterior walls to make the condensate train and lineset run and connections easier to install and service in the future. But we install them on interior walls all the time and that's up to manufacturer standards.
Up to 8? With one 240V circuit? The electric cable is installed outside as far as I understand, those units indoor also need an electric outlet?
They do not have, nor need an outlet - their power comes via the compressor unit.
Is there a way to use one unit to cool two small rooms? As small as 8"x10" right next to each other.
Yes, but it requires two distribution units to do it properly.
Ideally you should use two appropriately sized units, one for each unit. This way you can set individual temps in each room. Or you can use a small slim ducted air handler which will provide a supply duct and a return duct in each room. Then both rooms will be controlled by the same thermostat. You could add a remote sensor for the second room.
Does the outdoor unit give off much heat?
During the cooling mode it rejects an equal amount of heat to what it absorbs inside.
Is there any advantage to using two outdoor condensers for a 2 or 3-zone system? A contractor claims this allows the system to continue operating if one condenser goes down.
Scott, yes you get redundancy. If you get a Mitsubishi this won't come into play hardly ever. If the system is designed, installed and service correctly you won't have to worry.
Biggest advantage would be that you get more capacity or can go with a smaller unit that actually has more capacity. If you have multiple zones it will allow you to have more accurate control and if you have 2 or more floors they will work better independently of each other.
It would allow the second compressor to continue running, but it would only heat the one or two zones connected to it. You could then get some heat into the other zone/zones using fans - or just abandon the unheated/uncooled room(s) until the other compressor was fixed.
As far as I know, you cannot feed two compressors to one air handling unit.
Great video! Do you have a similar video for a condo tower? How does the floor level you are on impact sizing eg 17th floor versus 3rd floor? We are in the PNW in Canada and never turn our heat on because it never cools below 20C in our apartment. We have many weeks over 30C due to internal heat gain. Also, how does orientation eg South West versus North East impact sizing? We have had 4 HVAC installers in and the price varied from $25k to $30k Cad for 1 outdoor and 3 indoor units. The BTUs recommended per room varied wildly. We do not know who to trust.
I love the question you asked. You have just made an excellent point for all other homeowners to be very cautious when choosing the contractor. If everyone does the right thing they should all come to the same conclusion. The fact that you see a vast difference in proposals, prices and types of equipment recommended, proves that not everyone has the same thing and they can't all be right. Since we can't work in Canada I would still be more than happy to help you with sizing of your system. All the things you mentioned about the surrounding condos, orientation and all of the other structural elements will affect proper sizing. You don't want to oversize it, you don't want to undersize it, so the calculations have to be exact. If you want to shoot me a text or a call at 360-398-9400 I'll be more than happy to have a detailed conversation about the things to look for since it may be too much to respond in the comments. I can always call you since it long distance. Just you know, we have other videos on the channel that relate to the sizing and our process for ensuring the right equipment. Feel free to browse through the other videos that we have on the channel. I look forward to speaking with you into more detail to give you the certainty that you're going with the right contractor. 👍😀
@@cleanairheatingcooling4105 Thanks so much! I will look at your other videos.
With inverter systems, oversizing is not a problem - as long as the system is not vastly oversized. @@cleanairheatingcooling4105
Well. In winter, it's cold outside, so it doesn't make sense for him to say the system gets warm air from the outside. It would make more sense to increase the heat of inside air.
Q?? ONE OF OUR MITSUBISHI INDOOR UNITS MAKES CONSTANT TAPPING NOISES.. NOW IN 30's ALL ARE TAPPING TO SOME DEGREE. Contractor of no help. Manufacturer said installation issue.
It's not plastic expansion or contraction. Totally different sound.
I don’t know if this is true, but the Mitsubishi unit could be tapping to your music. Have you tried changing the music to see if the tempo increases or decreases? Or turn the music off then back in really fast, see of the tapping follows. 👞👞👞👞👞🥁🪘
On a serious note (😁🎵🎶) The tapping could be the EEVs electronic expansion valves or something else in the system. I would need more context to be able to give you accurate advice. If you can give me more details on how many in the unit and outdoor units have and we’re tapping is most hard to help you further. And also welcome to call or text me at 360-398-9400 and I can help you further. You can text me pictures there too so I know what I’m looking at.
For mine, the tapping was actually from the cover. It makes it a little more of a pain to get to the filter, but totally worth it in sanity. I used very sticky double sided tape (almost more of a gel than a tape, but I have no idea where I got it) where the lid meets the unit inside and also taped the outside in key spots until the tapping stopped. I considered trying velcro too, but the tape worked. After I taped the inside, the tapping was muted by 80%. When the lid was taped and closed, I then pressed my finger in different spots until I found where it was still rattling and then taped those spots on the outside (if I couldn't tape them on the inside). Hope that helps. If you get the chance, let me know if it does.
How much cost installation?
It depends on the model. Some of the smaller ductless units in our market at this time in the fall of 2023 cost around $5,000 to $9,000, fully installed. There are variables from house to house that could change that price. Obviously the bigger the unit or the more complex the job and the access the higher the price. Multizone systems usually start at about $12,000 and can go up to $60,000 for an eight zone system.
I have 5 mini splits and we are having a debate whether the units operate independent of one another. Is one unit the brains of the other. I say no, but the other opinion is that my bedroom unit is priority because it is closest to the outside compressor. The reason it is thought that way is trial and error on his unit that will not work properly unless my bedroom unit in set in the same"mode". Whats the correct answer and why might the upstairs unit not run properly (or at all) unless i have mine set in the same mode? Thank you.
Also i enjoyed your clear video.
You said it very well. All units must be in the same mode or they won't all work. Basically if one unit is running in hitting and you change another to cooling that won't change over to cooling until the one that has been working is also changed over.
Yep, a mini compressor cannot run in heating and cooling modes at the same time. If they are in the same mode, then they can operate independently.@@cleanairheatingcooling4105
I don't think Minisplits move air from outside the house and vice versa??
You're right. That was expressed incorrectly! Thank you for catching that!
@@cleanairheatingcooling4105 That's the only way I took it, as I don't see how you would mean that otherwise. That is very misleading and would actually turn me away from mini-splits if I didn't know any better. I live in an area that experienced wildfire smoke a few times a year that that would be a BAD thing to have outdoor air coming inside.
Since when have mini split systems pulled in fresh air? they recirculate the air from the room the head unit is in, the only thing coming from outside are 2 copper pipes either hot or cold.
You're correct. Some do allow a fresh air intake. Wall mount units don't.
@@Kayak51 - Hi Colin. Thank you for a great overview video. I was not aware that any mini-split indoor air handlers included a fresh air intake option. I'm interested in this possibility. Can you provide more info on the brand and style of indoor unit that can bring in outside air? Are these ductless options, or are they cassettes meant to deliver air via short ducts to each room?
Thank you!
@@WakeUpAmerican000s the multi position air handlers, slim duct air handlers and 4 way some ceiling cassettes.
@@Kayak51 No mini-split systems pull air from the outside, period.
Pulling air from the outside would require the addition of ducting to the outside thus defeating the purpose of a mini-split (aka ductless) system.
@@joebaseball17 you're right! The only ones that do are the hybrid systems like slim duct and multiposition air handlers. Floor mounted and wall mounted ones don't.
Awesome video. Great job.
Thank you
Why are these alway put high on the wall? If it's hot, cool air coming out of the machine will come out cool, instantly meet hot air, and it will warm and rise. Why not position it lower? Wouldn't it be more efficient?
This is such a great question! Thank you for asking. They do make units which are installed lower just like you asked. In the high wall mount units, the idea is to break up the hot air above with the louvers blowing horizontally across the room. This works well in most situations. There are more settings possible that can be customized for each space to be as effective as necessary for that environment.
is a duct less mini split a heat pump?
Yes! Great question.
Can you put a mini split wall unit in a crawl space?
Not recommended by the manufacturer for several reasons. Why are considering that? Is it for dehumidification?
Line hide, better looking, Mitsubishi have a really sturdy line hide stuff, over rectorseal brand , which is fine, but the Mitsubishi is a thicker material
Agreed! We use both!
The first thing you need to decide on a mini split is to find a reputable Refrigeration professional that knows that a mini split does not "pull outside air into the home" and it doesn't "take heat from the outside and bring it into the home." It does it through heat transfer with refrigerant. 😎
@@thehousedr4 That's right most mini splits don't pull air from the outside. There are some ceiling cassettes which do. But for the purpose of this video that was a mistake. Thank you for pointing that out.
Do you work on Orcas Island?
Yes, we do! Give us a call or or text me at 360-398-9400 and we can help you.
Do these really save you money on heating bills? I have a small 900 sf, 2 bdr, 1 bth, single story older home near the coast. It only has the single wall mounted hallway gas heater. I am really leaning towards a 3-zone unit, maybe 24k or so. I mainly want it for heat since we average 48 at night and 65 day but with ocasional crazy 90+ degree days. Are these a good fit based on this?
Yes. These are an excellent solution for these situations. When done correctly it can save you 20-70% on your heating bill.
Do you sleep in both bedrooms? If not, that would allow a unit in the main bedroom, bathroom (if large enough) and living area. Other combinations would be possible, depending on layout and room sizes. You always have the option to just leave a door open and possibly blow conditioned air into smaller spaces.
A 4 zone unit (or even 5) might be worth consideration for the flexibility.
I never understood the mini part of mini split, we don’t call them that where I’m from. I think I get it now. Mini isn’t the capacity, it’s the physical size of the indoor unit.
The i sensor moves but no green light flashes on it. Is it working
What does the manual say? It could possibly be a burned out indicator or logic card fault. Is the unit functioning correctly?
I encountered these systems when I was in Cambodia, and I HATED them. They are DRAFTY. If you home currently has only baseboard heating, I and you want to save money, then they are good. However, in the long run, going whole hog putting in ductwork, installing a GAS furnace and a standard AC system will save you money, which is what I did 15 years ago, and I thank God I did. Natural Gas is 1/3 to 1/4 the cost per BTU than electricity to heat. My winter utility bill would be $200 more a month during the winter if I used a heat pump (which is what a mini-split systems are).
@@richinoregon you are making an excellent point! I think from watching utilities in different areas of the country and different states or even different countries across the world the recommendation might vary based on more unique markets where the cost of energy varies by a lot. It's always good to do a good energy evaluation prior to purchasing these to make sure that it makes sense. There's other benefits other than savings so there's a lot of things to consider when deciding what system to get.
@@cleanairheatingcooling4105 Here is another consideration. If you live in the desert southwest, AC may not be the best choice--an evaporative cooler may be. I lived for 4 years in Nevada and had an evaporative cooler (swamp cooler) for cooling, and they could get COLD. The outside air temperature would be over 100 deg F during the day (I was in the high desert) but the temperature of the air coming out of the ductwork was 47 deg F. The only power they consume is to run the fan.
@@richinoregon that's right. In the dry areas those work well!
How does ductless HVAC mini split "pull air directly from outside your home providing fresh air quality for you"?
It does not. That statement is inaccurate. It only recirculates air from the inside and either heats it or cools it.
The units don’t move the warm or cold air from inside tonoutside
Yes. You're right. I misspoke there.
I read mini splits don't bring in fresh air. Please clarify.
You are correct they don't. That was an error. Thank you for your question and giving us the opportunity to clarify that for the rest of the viewers.
@@cleanairheatingcooling4105 Please add a correction to the video Isn't it possible to add a popup or banner to the video. Not everyone has time to watch the video, research the incorrect information and then to read the comments.
Also, to be honest, I won't look at your videos since they aren't trustworthy. I see someone commented on the incorrect informatioon 10 months ago but no correction. That was with a quick look at some of the comments.
The new mini split system in my apartment has been actually making my rooms humid and musty. What is the magic to get them to work?
It depends on the model. Ideally low fan speed to increase the ability to remove humidity. You can also try the dehumidification mode if your unit has it.
Did you run the condensation tube to the outside - with a downwards slope all the way? Is water dripping out of that tube?
If the answer is Yes to both questions, then you may need a dehumidifier to get rid of the excess moisture.
HE'S CUTE 😍
A mini-split doesn't pull air in from the outside.
If that were the case, that wouldn't be good since we live with wildfire smoke at certain times of the year.
I'm having a hard time understanding how this costs 15-18k
@@DoritoHunter it depends on the unit capacity, how many zones, how difficult or easy it is to install and which part of the country or world you live in. The same exact unit may have a different cost in two different houses next to each other due to the floor plan, construction details, etc
Exactly
"in the winter, the outdoor unit will pull warm air from the outside and send it to the indoor unit"
wait, what? warm winter air? what are ya smokin fella...
@@salimoneus look at the pinned comment.
I want to be a refrigeration HVAC technician, just like you are smart. Where do I get the knowledge.I want to be a refrigeration HVAC technician, just like you are smart. Where do I get the knowledge. I want too
You can join a local trade school which has an HVAC program. Or you may join a local company which can provide training. If you live in the PNW or want to relocate here You're welcome to apply on our website. 😀👍
If you have community colleges in your area - one may have a refrigeration program. Part of that training would most likely be working part time for a local HVAC business.
Lol. Mini Spits. 1:13
😃👍
OMG, you are too handsome to not look at the whole video!!! plus very useful info. thank you!!! 🤗
BTW, if I'm shopping for one, I have a long room (used to be a single-car garage turned into bedroom about 10x25) and live in Miami, what is a good recommendation? BTI's?
@@sorayaautana7621 my biggest recommendation is to never guess and don't hire a "professional" who guesses based on square ft. It requires a complete heat load calculation which takes into account dosens of inputs in addition to sq footage. For example, wall type, exposure, insulation levels, floor type, soil tipe, reflective surfaces outside, type of roof, historical temperature and humidity outside, your target temperature inside, indoor humidity, occupancy, activity type....
So best thing is to find a reputable local contractor who knows and does the design correctly the backs it up with a guarantee so that if they sized it wrong they will upgrade you free if charge. That's how you know they believe in their recommendation 👍🤠
@@Kayak51 thank you sooo much! that's what happened and now I have a Mitsubishi that is so quiet and powerful that I am in love with it!. Thank you thank you thank you!
He has no idea what’s he is talking about… there’s NO air exchange between outdoor and indoor air. Outdoor unit doesn’t not send ANY air to indoor unit or viceversa. It sends refrigerant and transfers heat. I tough that was being used to simplify explanation but then he said that mini splits bring fresh air from outside for air quality and realized he has no clue. The FS Deluxe wall mounted unit shown in video is the best Mitsubishi offers has an upgraded filter, Mainly protects the unit not nearly close a proper ducted air filtration solution.
And finishes up video saying outdoor unit needs proper airflow to be sent to indoor unit…. Lol 😂
Total misinformation.
Try $12K! ❤
So true. Unfortunately the price will be an ever moving target with everything changing around us 🌞
Bro no air is coming from outside your home
Correct. Not the wall mount miniaplits. The ceiling cassettes have a fresh air intake connection.
You are soo handsome.! That is what is important! 😀👏
This is wrong.
John, can you elaborate?
@@cleanairheatingcooling4105 At about 1 minute 30 seconds in you seem to say that air is transferred between the two parts. I have a mini-split where the heat is transferred by the cooling fluid but no air actually passes between the two parts if the device. I am sure you understand the system better than I do and this was just a slip. In short, no air passes from the outside to the inside or visa versa. This is why you do not need big holes in your walls which make the system much less of a problem to fit.
@@johnwarren6110 that is true.