Hi, Hope YOU will enjoy this video, and I hope I will be helpful to level up your Orca Skills and bring back the joy in 3D printing. I did my best in English, which is not my first language. 😎 And thanks for the huge support, it is just amazing. And if you could provide a short description of what happened, if it just stopped print and so forth. 😊
so i know this is a 1 year old video but, i just found it today and with just one setup you helped me understand that i had the sonic pad doing basically nothing since all my speeds were govern by orca, now the same print went from 2.04 hours to 1,11 hours, same quality, also i was having tons of problems with my bed mesh and this ensured that the one saved was used improving my layer adhesion and the quality of the first layer as well. thank you so much, i hope you can re make this with the newest version to see if anything changed significantly, only setting i didn't have on my orca slicer was the timelapse which i never been able to setup either on the Sonic pad or in orca.
Hi and thank you very much for you comment, it really means a lot that you found this video useful. I have been busy for a couple of months, but I’m back in making videos, so I will for sure do a re make of this video but with the updated features as well as settings. Thanks again for your kind words, it truly means a lot l, i try to do my best in making useful videos which is pointed directly towards a goal and not talking about all kind of useless stuff. I try to make my videos that goes directly to the point without to much fillers. ❤
Decided to switch from Cura to Orca and using your video as guide - Ender s1 pro with Klipper/Mainsail/Kiauh etc. Thanks so much and keep up the great work!
I started tinkering with Orca Slicer and that’s exactly what I’ve been looking for, thank you so much for the amazing detailed guide, you saved me a substantial amount of time!
Hi, wow thank you so much for your comment, this really means a lot. I’m glad that You like the video. It’s always a joy to read comments from people who like that things you have been working on.
Just found your video and it is very helpful! Thanks for putting this together and your English was excellent (better than many of the people I know who were born in the US) 😁.... thanks again!
Thanks , your comment just made my day. I’m glad that you found my video useful and you think my English is excellent. I try to do my best. More videos will soon be uploaded. If you have any requests regarding a topic, let me know and I will mix something together. 😎💯
Hi, thanks for this video! It's really helpful in understanding how Orca works better, greatly appreciate the time and effort that went into this. I have what I think is a similar set up Ender 3 S1 Pro + sonic pad. I'd love to see some set up or guides on getting the sonic pad calibrated so when zeroing out numbers in Orca it can just use the machines settings. Thanks again for the hard working in making these videos!
you set all of the Motion ability tab settings to 0 to enable Klipper control of these settings? there appears to be a new Emit limits to G-code check box ,that says it's ignored if Klipper is selected.
Hi good morning I love your videos learn a lot thank you so much for teaching us what to do. I have a question I’m trying to print TPU and I need to reduce the Speed. I don’t know how to do this. Where can I go on the speed. I looked under speed and I cannot figure out which one to change. Thank you. I appreciate your help.
Hi, and thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate that you find my video useful. Do you have a sonic pad.? Or do you just have the printer connected. But in orca under the the different speeds settings, you can set your preferred speed, have you tried to add a generic TPU setting in Orca, then it should automatically slow down the speed accordingly to TPU, if not you could try that or you can very simply change your print speed in the different tabs on the left under print settings. 😊
Awesome just set it up with my sonic pad and s1 pro doing first print now I will update when done if I think its better then Cura has that's good with there profiles for tpu
Hi, I really think Orca has some really great features and the pre-made profiles for each printer, seems to be spot on, when it comes to quality and how the printer behaves. Let me know what you think when you have down your first print. 😎 These Orca Videos is made because I really think it’s a shame that people struggle so much printing simple objects. And if these videos can guide viewers into a more easy to print path, then this is 💯 worth the work I put into these videos. 👍🏻
Do you know if its possible to adjust the clone settings to fit more on the plate? Theres a certain thing I print in hundreds and don't like how it spreads them out , I could fit nearly 30 more on if it would let me.
@@8thsinner hi thanks for your comment, you can type in the amount you want it to clone on the plate, then you can readjust the rotation of the prints. Feel free to ask again if you have issues getting this to work. 😎
@@TechByHesselbech Figured things out, I was using fill bed before, and on my old printer it would waste a lot of space, since upgrading to a qidi xm3 and updating orca I haven't had the same issue with it, but i'm also seeing the clone number thing too (not sure if that was in the old version or not but I see it now) Thanks
Thanks for such an great video. However can u make one similar video on Orca for Marlin based printers like the Ender 3 Pro cause there are still quite a lot of people including myself who still has and uses a Creality Ender printer and have been using Cura but wish to switch to Orca and have been struggling with even the basics like setting up a Ender 3 Pro kind of printer in Orca. Looking forward too. avideo on this from you. Thanks
Hi , thanks for your comment and your kind words. For sure I can make a video of the same just with the ender 3 Pro with marking firmware. 😊 I do have a couple of ender 3 pros myself, they are great printers. Thanks again for your kind words, it means a lot. Ender 3 pro and orca it is. 😊💯
Thank you so very much for reading my feedback and for such quick and positive response. 🙏 I am already excited 🎉 and soo looking forward to the video on setting up a Marlin based Ender 3 pro video in Orca slicer which will help me and many more like myself switch from cura to Orca or maybe use both depending on the scenario of our prints that we would do. Thanks again.
Silly question. I have the Ender 3 S1 Pro also. But I am running Klipper on a Raspberry Pi, not the sonic pad. Should I also zero out my acceleration limits? Will Klipper dictate them as well if I am on the pi as opposed to the sonic pad?
Hi, There is no silly questions only stupid answers. 😊 yeah the sonic pad is just a device which has more power than the mainboard in the printer itself, and the same goes for the Raspberry pi. Klipper is the main thing controlling your settings, and the “hardware device” is the brain like the sonic pad and the raspberry pi. 😎 You could in reality run Klipper on a mobile phone if it was possible, and it would still be Klipper that you want to control your speeds, the phone would only be the brain, which only controls how fast Klipper is running on the device. A reference would be an engine in a car, you could take a Ferrari engine and build it to sit in a fiat or a Toyota, it would still be the engine determine the speeds you are going, where the car is the limit of how fast it can go around corners and braking. 😬
Thanks for clarifying. But just to go back to the setting part of the question, should I zero out the acceleration limits? Based on your answer, I am assuming that I should. Correct?
@@nuzzir yep, sorry, you need to zero out the settings in your slicer, because you want Klipper to control your speeds, it will then “auto” determine you print speeds taken from your config file in Klipper.
BTW in Quality tab order of walls you should use the lowest one (Inner -->outer -->inner-->infill) this should give you a better accuracy but still great overhand performance. In regard to infill, you usually never have to go over 20% or so. The most strength comes from the outer most layer. So the best way to increase overall strength and still save material is to increase wall count not infill, infill is mostly useless for strength.
Yeah exactly, I just normally use the other one because of the infill to wall overlap. Yeah above 20% is never needed, but for some parts in the car industry, the infill has to be quite higher, but for normal use, below 20% is more than enough, unless you are making bricks to build a house 😀
@@TechByHesselbech "...I just normally use the other one because of the infill to wall overlap...." I don´t quiet understand. Does the infill to wall overlap change with this option ? As far as I understand the overlap stays the same but the print sequence changes. It should print (first inner wall which is besides the outer wall-->outside wall-->second inner wall beside the first inner wall-->infill) "...Yeah above 20% is never needed, but for some parts in the car industry..." Oh course this depends on the use case. Funny you mention the car industry, I am an automotive design engineer and I never get parts with 20% infill or above xD Of course there might be cases where people need more infill for whichever reason, I just wanted to say that this is a rare occasion because if you think about a round tubular profile, the hollow tube which is for example ø10mm with 1mm wall thickness has about 10% less strength than a filled non hollow profile of same size, but it weights 90% more. The most inner material in a part does not add any strength whatsoever, especially for bending, that´s why engineers use hollowed out profiles most of the time. It´s the best strength to weight compromise. I am sure YOU know that, but somebody else might read that and maybe understand better why lots of infill does not provide any strength but more walls do.
@@sierraecho884 the reason why you might not get parts with over 20% infill is because all car parts are molded and not 3D printed 😊 And the infill plays a crucial role in some type of 3D prints depending in the prints design, some parts need infill to make a cross reference of strength where walls does not provide the same cross reference strength. For car parts like crucial structural parts, they are profiles which are press molded, because they need to be able to bend a specific way to absorb impact if a car is in a crash, a non hollow profile would not be able to absorb the impact the same way. 3D prints can’t be compared to crucial car parts, because of the way 3D prints are made, a steel hollow pipe is not made layer by layer. That is why car engineers use hollow design in the structural profiles because they have to bend or collapse because of the way they need to absorb the most amount of impact, and protect the driver.
@@TechByHesselbech Yes, and I do design those parts. But you always need samples and that´s why rapid prototyping was invested here in Germany which we call now 3D printing. We also sent out samples to the customer from time to time, I am currently waiting for some parts for FORD for instance, those are SLS parts so they are 100% solid PA. Sure some parts need more strength but even in those parts the absolute majority of strength is provided by the outer most layer. As you have said, most parts are molded with ribbed structures anyways. Except in 3D prints you don´t have to rely on the ribs you can make chunky parts but even then the infill is just the icing on the cake. All structural car parts are basically sheet metal (cheap and simple), or profiles because not every part in a car needs to absorb energy. The occupant section has to be stiff and sturdy for instance, that´s why the A B C Pillars are high strength steel usually. Most other parts are plastic since they are cheap and easily molded by the millions. None of them are 3D printed because there is no way you could do that in time for the cost. BTW I didn´t compare 3D prints to crucial parts. It´s just rapid prototyping you don´t really use it in production vehicles...well at least for now, for most vehicles. And no, engineers use hollow designs for a variety of reasons not only for them to absorb energy. You could also use metal foam for that reason for instance. It´s because stamped parts are cheap and easy. Hollow profiles have the best weight to strength ratio. The most inner layer does not provide any resistance to bending for instance it´s simply wasted material. You can look that up in any mech. engineering book. That´s how the I beam works for instance and all the other profiles the further out to the outline layer you move the more bend resistance you get. An I beam shaves off 80% of weight for instance. You want your parts to be light, cheap and easy. And that´s exactly why more infill does not provide any more benefit. Now gradually denser infill this makes a lot of sense where the core is hollow the further out it get´s the more material you get. But I have not seen any of this in a slicer beside CNC kitchen videos. BTW check those out, maybe you will better understand why infill does not make much sense then he can explain it probably better than I do.
@@sierraecho884 If not for your comment I don't think I learned anything new from this video, for sure nothing advanced or even intermediate for that matter.
Thank you for this video. I had been trying Orca Slicer with my Ender 3 S1 with Sonic Pad, but found the generic "Klipper" profile in Orca far too fast for my Ender 3 S1 with Sonic Pad, causing print fails. So I think I'll reinstall the printer in Orca, this time following the steps in your video :-)
Thank YOU that means a lot. 💯😎 Orca is in my opinion just perfectly set up with the different print profiles, and it just delivers. 😊 For sure, keep me updated when you have tried the steps in this video. 😊💯
Hi and thanks for you comment and question. Yes you can use all available pads, you just need to choose your correct firmware/g-code flavor in orca. So if your pad is running klipper you just select your printer and then choose the corresponding g-code flavor your pad is running. It is just so orca knows what kind of firmware you are running. 😊 Hope it makes sense or else feel free to ask again. 😊
@@Impuritan1 hi, thanks for the question, don’t know if this was for me or OP, but you can find the klipper profiles in the Klipper GitHub page, they have a variety of profiles to download and use as reference.
Hi Martin, the video was actually at the beginning for the Sonic Pad with any printer, but I just showed how to add a custom printer profile ( klipper ) if someone has the Sonic pad with a non creality printer or a printer which was not on the pre-configured list 😎 and thanks for the comment, hope my answer explained what you asked. 👍🏻😊
@@TechByHesselbech I throw the print mate but over half printed nice it was the last 30 percent . I turned of all speeds in orca has my sonic pad is all setup perfect with cura now that prints perfect tpu prints and some pla prints the benchy prints better at the top half then the bottom on cura lol
@@TechByHesselbech no I have not printed on tpu in orca yet only pla I used your settings in the video I am trying a tpu print in orca but printer is busy now with a print from cura pal . I did use the pla profile in orca when I did the benchy it took 57 mins so not to fast
Hi. Thanks for your comment. I depends if you are using a Creality Sonic pad the E-steps ( rotational distance ) is controlled on the sonic pad. Yea you can change the E-steps in orca in the advanced tab, in the printer and filament settings. 😊
So having an Ender 3 S1 with Sonic Pad - whicht to choose in Printer selection? Klipper custom or the Ender 3 S1? (How does the slicer know I have the SP if I just choose the normal Ender 3 S1 printer?)
Hi Jan. Thanks for your comment. Your name look danish.? Then I can explain in danish. 😊 But you choose the Ender 3 S1 in orca, and under print settings you choose g-code flavor ( Klipper ) this way orca knows that your firmware is klipper and then you can adjust from there 😊 The klipper custom profile, is only used if you want to build your own profile from scratch, which could be a non creality printer and so on. Hope it made sense.
Hi, thanks for your comment. You can find all relevant information about Klipper / Sonic pad on klippers GitHub page, there you have all the information needed to figure out what to use and what not to use in your slicer and so on. 😊 Hope this answer will guide you in the right direction or else feel free to ask again. 😊
@@TechByHesselbech Wow, I thought I'd read everything in the Klipper docs, and I don't recall seeing the Sonicpad mentioned anywhere. I'll take another look. Thanks for the info.
I have a question. I have great quality on my cr10. When i do a simple flow rate cube 3 btm laryers vase mode no top layer i get 20 x 20 mm but my wall with is .48 should this be of concern? Im uaing a .4 nozzle? How could i adjust this?
Hi thanks for the question, did you do any calibrations? You should do a flow test to check if your flow rate is too high or too low, how big was your cube from side to side? External mm?
@TechByHesselbech yeah I did the full calibration on orca slicer, and the 20x20x20mm cube came out 20x20x20mm exact in both the x and y and z but the wall with was .48 mm.
I use orca slicer for my k1 max. However i cant figure out why i cannot set the travel acceleration (its grayed out) in machine settings. I have searched online but found nothing. I see that it's the same for you, do you know what causes it to be grayed out?
Hi, the answer is quite simple. 😎 The reason why it is grayed out, is because of your G-code flavor in the advanced tab, if you choose klipper or marlin (legacy) it is grayed out, but if you choose Marlin 2, you are able to change the maximum acceleration for travel, 😊 So it depends on your g-code flavor, it is like the Jerk settings, they are not used by klipper, therefore it should not be changed. 😊 Hope it helped. 😊
Hi iv installed OrcaSlicer on my Linux pc and added my printer, but it dosent show the print bed on the prepare or preview tabs. All the settings are on the right of the screen but the rest of the screen is blank. Can you help?
@@Gavin3DPrinting that would be quite strange if another slicer would affect another, can you send me an email with a screenshot and I will take a look at it, my email is in my bio.
@TechByHesselbech Hi so i spent a few hours on forums and have found the problem. Its my Nvidia graphics drivers. I have changed to my system graphics and it works just fine. I tried to update my driver to the latest 525 but my graphics card wouldnt accept it as its too old. Im just staying with my onboard Intel graphics untill i can afford a new graphics card. Now i just need to transfer my presets from prusa slicer.
Wow ! Thanks for the fast reply! I am looking for a profile that will help make the supports easier to be removed from the model with minimal scaring. BTW your English is better than mine lol ! @@TechByHesselbech
@@johnmulligan9299 👍🏻💯😊 we can adjust the pre-made profile, I will make the adjustments and post it for you here, then you will have no more issues with bad supports, 💯😀
Arache is 100% hands down. You can use your 0.4mm nozzle to print from 0.42mm to 0.8mm line widths. You will get a much better resolution and save 30% of print time. It´s not even a debate if arachne is better.
@@drakedavon2048 hi , it actually depends on preferences and what printer you are using. If you have a Bambu printer, I would suggest to use Bambu studio because of the way they work together. If you use all other printers, you can also you Bambu studio or Orca. Orca is a Fork of Bambu , but they have just down their own optimizations on Orca, to fit what they believe is the best. Hope it made sense. 😎
Just a couple constructive criticism: 1) Lower volume of music by like 30-40%, while some people might not mind it most people like myself find it very distracting while listening to you (one of the reasons why libraries are silent, it helps to focus). 2) Include video of the test prints to show off before and after quality improvements, otherwise it's just a "trust me bro" kind of video with no proof. It's good to put 5-10 second cuts of the video at the beginning of your video to engage the viewer into watching the whole thing and then again a full 20-30 second video of all the before and after prints wrapping everything up. Hope this helps :)
@Durant522 thanks for you positive comment. It really means a lot. I dont know why some people say they can’t hear my voice. Some people just give negative comments just because they don’t have anything else to say. Thanks much appreciated. 💜
@@Durant522 Clearly if you can hear them perfectly then the audio must be perfect and everyone else must be wrong. Why oh why didn't I think of that! D'oh! Curse us all for not being a neurotypical like yourself! We should never try to offer constructive criticism to creators to help them improve their content so that they can grow and reach a larger audience! What a horrendous idea!
Hi thank you for your comment. ☺️ i Can make a video for people using Marlin, but the difference isn’t that big. It is very few things that need to be changed, then it’s almost the same.
@@TechByHesselbech the thing for me orca works great but a 10hour print on cura takes 20 on orca but cura won’t finish the print orca finishes need help making it faster tried putting the speeds settings from cura to orca but the names are all difent I need help with that
@@hansherrera6969 hi again, thanks for your comment/question. Okay that makes sense. Just to answer the first part of your comment, if you look at the different parameters which Cura and orca shows in the speed calculation is often different because Cura does not take all parts of the print into the equation when it shows the total print time. 😊 your printer was all stock.? I will try to make a print profile for your specific printer.
Hi thanks for your comment, but the bed size is actually 23,5 x 23,5 which is 235x235 but in cura you only type in 220x220 because it needs to have some print space around the actually print space, but in orca you type in the full size (actually) bed size. But the bed size is 235x235.
At least he could have mentioned something about what was wrong. The thing the some don’t understand. Many have had issues with errors on the coordinates on the ender printers, because they have typed in which is the correct size 235x235, but there was some kind of bug in orca where you had to only type in 220x220 for the bed size. And he if actually measured the printed of an ender it is in fact 23,5cm x 23,5cm which is 235mm x235mm. But thanks for stepping up against people that only comment stuff like this, much appreciated.
Hi, Hope YOU will enjoy this video, and I hope I will be helpful to level up your Orca Skills and bring back the joy in 3D printing.
I did my best in English, which is not my first language. 😎
And thanks for the huge support, it is just amazing.
And if you could provide a short description of what happened, if it just stopped print and so forth. 😊
cheers bro from, uk
@@BODALLY Cheers to YOU too. 😃
@@bruceberry196 thanks, 😊👍🏻 and thanks for your comment.
so i know this is a 1 year old video but, i just found it today and with just one setup you helped me understand that i had the sonic pad doing basically nothing since all my speeds were govern by orca, now the same print went from 2.04 hours to 1,11 hours, same quality, also i was having tons of problems with my bed mesh and this ensured that the one saved was used improving my layer adhesion and the quality of the first layer as well. thank you so much, i hope you can re make this with the newest version to see if anything changed significantly, only setting i didn't have on my orca slicer was the timelapse which i never been able to setup either on the Sonic pad or in orca.
Hi and thank you very much for you comment, it really means a lot that you found this video useful.
I have been busy for a couple of months, but I’m back in making videos, so I will for sure do a re make of this video but with the updated features as well as settings.
Thanks again for your kind words, it truly means a lot l, i try to do my best in making useful videos which is pointed directly towards a goal and not talking about all kind of useless stuff.
I try to make my videos that goes directly to the point without to much fillers.
❤
Decided to switch from Cura to Orca and using your video as guide - Ender s1 pro with Klipper/Mainsail/Kiauh etc. Thanks so much and keep up the great work!
Thanks again.😎😊 I think orca in general makes better prints because of the way it’s programmed. I’m glad you like this video. 😎💯
I started tinkering with Orca Slicer and that’s exactly what I’ve been looking for, thank you so much for the amazing detailed guide, you saved me a substantial amount of time!
Hi, wow thank you so much for your comment, this really means a lot.
I’m glad that You like the video.
It’s always a joy to read comments from people who like that things you have been working on.
Thanks for very useful tutorial. I appreciating it as a Sonicpad (E3S1P) user a lot. Great job man!
Just found your video and it is very helpful! Thanks for putting this together and your English was excellent (better than many of the people I know who were born in the US) 😁.... thanks again!
Thanks , your comment just made my day. I’m glad that you found my video useful and you think my English is excellent. I try to do my best. More videos will soon be uploaded.
If you have any requests regarding a topic, let me know and I will mix something together. 😎💯
I always use cubic infill because its the strongest. If your printer is dialed in correctly the nozzle doesn't scrape anywhere
Hi, thanks for this video! It's really helpful in understanding how Orca works better, greatly appreciate the time and effort that went into this. I have what I think is a similar set up Ender 3 S1 Pro + sonic pad. I'd love to see some set up or guides on getting the sonic pad calibrated so when zeroing out numbers in Orca it can just use the machines settings. Thanks again for the hard working in making these videos!
@@Phantoty hi thanks for your positive comment, I’m actually working on a complete video on how to set it up. 😎
Exactly what I've been waiting for, Thank you for you work its greatly appreciated...
Thanks, I appreciate you, 😎👍🏻
Thanks Man 👍👍 nice weekend
Thanks for your positive feedback 👍🏼😎 💯
you set all of the Motion ability tab settings to 0 to enable Klipper control of these settings?
there appears to be a new Emit limits to G-code check box ,that says it's ignored if Klipper is selected.
Hi and thanks for you comment, yep that will overrule the 0 settings.. only Klipper needs to control.. 😊
Hi good morning I love your videos learn a lot thank you so much for teaching us what to do. I have a question I’m trying to print TPU and I need to reduce the Speed. I don’t know how to do this. Where can I go on the speed. I looked under speed and I cannot figure out which one to change. Thank you. I appreciate your help.
Hi, and thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate that you find my video useful.
Do you have a sonic pad.? Or do you just have the printer connected.
But in orca under the the different speeds settings, you can set your preferred speed, have you tried to add a generic TPU setting in Orca, then it should automatically slow down the speed accordingly to TPU, if not you could try that or you can very simply change your print speed in the different tabs on the left under print settings. 😊
Awesome just set it up with my sonic pad and s1 pro doing first print now I will update when done if I think its better then Cura has that's good with there profiles for tpu
Hi, I really think Orca has some really great features and the pre-made profiles for each printer, seems to be spot on, when it comes to quality and how the printer behaves.
Let me know what you think when you have down your first print. 😎
These Orca Videos is made because I really think it’s a shame that people struggle so much printing simple objects.
And if these videos can guide viewers into a more easy to print path, then this is 💯 worth the work I put into these videos. 👍🏻
I have emailed you some files printed with orca and some from Cura pal @@TechByHesselbech
This would be better without the music.
Do you know if its possible to adjust the clone settings to fit more on the plate? Theres a certain thing I print in hundreds and don't like how it spreads them out , I could fit nearly 30 more on if it would let me.
@@8thsinner hi thanks for your comment, you can type in the amount you want it to clone on the plate, then you can readjust the rotation of the prints.
Feel free to ask again if you have issues getting this to work. 😎
@@TechByHesselbech Figured things out, I was using fill bed before, and on my old printer it would waste a lot of space, since upgrading to a qidi xm3 and updating orca I haven't had the same issue with it, but i'm also seeing the clone number thing too (not sure if that was in the old version or not but I see it now)
Thanks
Thanks for such an great video.
However can u make one similar video on Orca for Marlin based printers like the Ender 3 Pro cause there are still quite a lot of people including myself who still has and uses a Creality Ender printer and have been using Cura but wish to switch to Orca and have been struggling with even the basics like setting up a Ender 3 Pro kind of printer in Orca.
Looking forward too. avideo on this from you.
Thanks
Hi , thanks for your comment and your kind words. For sure I can make a video of the same just with the ender 3 Pro with marking firmware. 😊
I do have a couple of ender 3 pros myself, they are great printers.
Thanks again for your kind words, it means a lot.
Ender 3 pro and orca it is. 😊💯
Thank you so very much for reading my feedback and for such quick and positive response. 🙏
I am already excited 🎉 and soo looking forward to the video on setting up a Marlin based Ender 3 pro video in Orca slicer which will help me and many more like myself switch from cura to Orca or maybe use both depending on the scenario of our prints that we would do.
Thanks again.
@@dst161 thanks again, 😊 but no problem, this is what our community is for, helping each other out to get awesome prints with less headache. 💯
Silly question. I have the Ender 3 S1 Pro also. But I am running Klipper on a Raspberry Pi, not the sonic pad. Should I also zero out my acceleration limits? Will Klipper dictate them as well if I am on the pi as opposed to the sonic pad?
Hi, There is no silly questions only stupid answers. 😊 yeah the sonic pad is just a device which has more power than the mainboard in the printer itself, and the same goes for the Raspberry pi.
Klipper is the main thing controlling your settings, and the “hardware device” is the brain like the sonic pad and the raspberry pi. 😎
You could in reality run Klipper on a mobile phone if it was possible, and it would still be Klipper that you want to control your speeds, the phone would only be the brain, which only controls how fast Klipper is running on the device.
A reference would be an engine in a car, you could take a Ferrari engine and build it to sit in a fiat or a Toyota, it would still be the engine determine the speeds you are going, where the car is the limit of how fast it can go around corners and braking. 😬
Thanks for clarifying. But just to go back to the setting part of the question, should I zero out the acceleration limits? Based on your answer, I am assuming that I should. Correct?
@@nuzzir yep, sorry, you need to zero out the settings in your slicer, because you want Klipper to control your speeds, it will then “auto” determine you print speeds taken from your config file in Klipper.
@@TechByHesselbech Thanks! Great video!
@nuzzir thanks , your comment I much appreciated.
BTW in Quality tab order of walls you should use the lowest one (Inner -->outer -->inner-->infill) this should give you a better accuracy but still great overhand performance.
In regard to infill, you usually never have to go over 20% or so. The most strength comes from the outer most layer. So the best way to increase overall strength and still save material is to increase wall count not infill, infill is mostly useless for strength.
Yeah exactly, I just normally use the other one because of the infill to wall overlap.
Yeah above 20% is never needed, but for some parts in the car industry, the infill has to be quite higher, but for normal use, below 20% is more than enough, unless you are making bricks to build a house 😀
@@TechByHesselbech "...I just normally use the other one because of the infill to wall overlap...." I don´t quiet understand. Does the infill to wall overlap change with this option ? As far as I understand the overlap stays the same but the print sequence changes. It should print (first inner wall which is besides the outer wall-->outside wall-->second inner wall beside the first inner wall-->infill)
"...Yeah above 20% is never needed, but for some parts in the car industry..." Oh course this depends on the use case. Funny you mention the car industry, I am an automotive design engineer and I never get parts with 20% infill or above xD
Of course there might be cases where people need more infill for whichever reason, I just wanted to say that this is a rare occasion because if you think about a round tubular profile, the hollow tube which is for example ø10mm with 1mm wall thickness has about 10% less strength than a filled non hollow profile of same size, but it weights 90% more. The most inner material in a part does not add any strength whatsoever, especially for bending, that´s why engineers use hollowed out profiles most of the time. It´s the best strength to weight compromise.
I am sure YOU know that, but somebody else might read that and maybe understand better why lots of infill does not provide any strength but more walls do.
@@sierraecho884 the reason why you might not get parts with over 20% infill is because all car parts are molded and not 3D printed 😊
And the infill plays a crucial role in some type of 3D prints depending in the prints design, some parts need infill to make a cross reference of strength where walls does not provide the same cross reference strength.
For car parts like crucial structural parts, they are profiles which are press molded, because they need to be able to bend a specific way to absorb impact if a car is in a crash, a non hollow profile would not be able to absorb the impact the same way.
3D prints can’t be compared to crucial car parts, because of the way 3D prints are made, a steel hollow pipe is not made layer by layer.
That is why car engineers use hollow design in the structural profiles because they have to bend or collapse because of the way they need to absorb the most amount of impact, and protect the driver.
@@TechByHesselbech Yes, and I do design those parts. But you always need samples and that´s why rapid prototyping was invested here in Germany which we call now 3D printing. We also sent out samples to the customer from time to time, I am currently waiting for some parts for FORD for instance, those are SLS parts so they are 100% solid PA.
Sure some parts need more strength but even in those parts the absolute majority of strength is provided by the outer most layer. As you have said, most parts are molded with ribbed structures anyways. Except in 3D prints you don´t have to rely on the ribs you can make chunky parts but even then the infill is just the icing on the cake.
All structural car parts are basically sheet metal (cheap and simple), or profiles because not every part in a car needs to absorb energy. The occupant section has to be stiff and sturdy for instance, that´s why the A B C Pillars are high strength steel usually. Most other parts are plastic since they are cheap and easily molded by the millions. None of them are 3D printed because there is no way you could do that in time for the cost.
BTW I didn´t compare 3D prints to crucial parts. It´s just rapid prototyping you don´t really use it in production vehicles...well at least for now, for most vehicles.
And no, engineers use hollow designs for a variety of reasons not only for them to absorb energy. You could also use metal foam for that reason for instance. It´s because stamped parts are cheap and easy. Hollow profiles have the best weight to strength ratio. The most inner layer does not provide any resistance to bending for instance it´s simply wasted material.
You can look that up in any mech. engineering book.
That´s how the I beam works for instance and all the other profiles the further out to the outline layer you move the more bend resistance you get. An I beam shaves off 80% of weight for instance. You want your parts to be light, cheap and easy. And that´s exactly why more infill does not provide any more benefit. Now gradually denser infill this makes a lot of sense where the core is hollow the further out it get´s the more material you get. But I have not seen any of this in a slicer beside CNC kitchen videos. BTW check those out, maybe you will better understand why infill does not make much sense then he can explain it probably better than I do.
@@sierraecho884 If not for your comment I don't think I learned anything new from this video, for sure nothing advanced or even intermediate for that matter.
Thank you for this video. I had been trying Orca Slicer with my Ender 3 S1 with Sonic Pad, but found the generic "Klipper" profile in Orca far too fast for my Ender 3 S1 with Sonic Pad, causing print fails. So I think I'll reinstall the printer in Orca, this time following the steps in your video :-)
Thank YOU that means a lot. 💯😎 Orca is in my opinion just perfectly set up with the different print profiles, and it just delivers. 😊 For sure, keep me updated when you have tried the steps in this video. 😊💯
So does this also apply to the Nebula Pad? I just upgraded my Ender 3 V3 SE.
Hi and thanks for you comment and question.
Yes you can use all available pads, you just need to choose your correct firmware/g-code flavor in orca.
So if your pad is running klipper you just select your printer and then choose the corresponding g-code flavor your pad is running.
It is just so orca knows what kind of firmware you are running. 😊
Hope it makes sense or else feel free to ask again. 😊
I’m getting to do this very thing to my V3 SE, where did you find your Klipper profile for it?
@@Impuritan1 hi, thanks for the question, don’t know if this was for me or OP, but you can find the klipper profiles in the Klipper GitHub page, they have a variety of profiles to download and use as reference.
CORRECTION:
I mention in the video that the retraction speed should be 0.45 - 0.65 mm/s.. it is of course 40 - 65 mm/s sorry for this.. 😎
I need you to say "get to the choppa"
Hello, why do you add pre configured Klipper config as a printer and then add another printer by selecting the Ender 3?
Hi Martin, the video was actually at the beginning for the Sonic Pad with any printer, but I just showed how to add a custom printer profile ( klipper ) if someone has the Sonic pad with a non creality printer or a printer which was not on the pre-configured list 😎 and thanks for the comment, hope my answer explained what you asked. 👍🏻😊
@@TechByHesselbech Oh got it, thanks
@@TinSVM no problem 👍🏻
I have ender3 v2. If possible to configuration
.8 Nozzles setting? Please update video how to setting .8 Nozzle
I Will male a video om har nozzle settings soon. Also how to make custom print profiles.
Great video, ty :)👌
Thanks Joseph , 👍🏻😊 that means a lot.
And thanks for the comment.
I use orca with my ender 3 v2 on mriscoc firmware.
What i added is seams into perimeter, so they are bsrely visible and also reduces stringing.
Hi, that is a very nice tip, thanks for your comment. 👍🏻😎💯
Well the benchy finished the boat and most of it printed perfect better then Cura but the top half did not print :( . I used pla
Have you done any calibrations? Can you send me an email with a picture of the print, and I will take a look at it, my info mail is in my Bio. 👍🏻
@@TechByHesselbech I throw the print mate but over half printed nice it was the last 30 percent . I turned of all speeds in orca has my sonic pad is all setup perfect with cura now that prints perfect tpu prints and some pla prints the benchy prints better at the top half then the bottom on cura lol
At what print speeds did you print.?
in Orca you could try the pre configure generic TPU profile.
@@TechByHesselbech no I have not printed on tpu in orca yet only pla I used your settings in the video I am trying a tpu print in orca but printer is busy now with a print from cura pal . I did use the pla profile in orca when I did the benchy it took 57 mins so not to fast
@BODALLY Sounds great. I always recommend to adjust the slicer speeds accordingly to your specific printer, and calibrations. 👍🏻💯
I’ve never used Orca yet but is it possible to change the E steps in Orca.
Hi. Thanks for your comment.
I depends if you are using a Creality Sonic pad the E-steps ( rotational distance ) is controlled on the sonic pad.
Yea you can change the E-steps in orca in the advanced tab, in the printer and filament settings. 😊
@@TechByHesselbech That’s great news, thank you. I don’t have a Sonic pad but I do have a Elegoo 4 pro.
So having an Ender 3 S1 with Sonic Pad - whicht to choose in Printer selection?
Klipper custom or the Ender 3 S1?
(How does the slicer know I have the SP if I just choose the normal Ender 3 S1 printer?)
Hi Jan. Thanks for your comment. Your name look danish.? Then I can explain in danish. 😊
But you choose the Ender 3 S1 in orca, and under print settings you choose g-code flavor ( Klipper ) this way orca knows that your firmware is klipper and then you can adjust from there 😊
The klipper custom profile, is only used if you want to build your own profile from scratch, which could be a non creality printer and so on.
Hope it made sense.
How do you know which settings are handled by the Sonicpad, and which are not?
Hi, thanks for your comment.
You can find all relevant information about Klipper / Sonic pad on klippers GitHub page, there you have all the information needed to figure out what to use and what not to use in your slicer and so on. 😊
Hope this answer will guide you in the right direction or else feel free to ask again. 😊
@@TechByHesselbech Wow, I thought I'd read everything in the Klipper docs, and I don't recall seeing the Sonicpad mentioned anywhere. I'll take another look.
Thanks for the info.
@@imacmill The Sonic Pad is just the device, don’t think the Sonic pad is mentioned in the Klipper Docs, if I read your question right.? 😊
I have a question. I have great quality on my cr10. When i do a simple flow rate cube 3 btm laryers vase mode no top layer i get 20 x 20 mm but my wall with is .48 should this be of concern? Im uaing a .4 nozzle? How could i adjust this?
Hi thanks for the question, did you do any calibrations? You should do a flow test to check if your flow rate is too high or too low, how big was your cube from side to side? External mm?
@TechByHesselbech yeah I did the full calibration on orca slicer, and the 20x20x20mm cube came out 20x20x20mm exact in both the x and y and z but the wall with was .48 mm.
@@ga6287 have you checked your wall with in Orca? What pre-configured profile do you use when you print 0.2, 0.16 ?
I use orca slicer for my k1 max. However i cant figure out why i cannot set the travel acceleration (its grayed out) in machine settings. I have searched online but found nothing. I see that it's the same for you, do you know what causes it to be grayed out?
Hi, the answer is quite simple. 😎
The reason why it is grayed out, is because of your G-code flavor in the advanced tab, if you choose klipper or marlin (legacy) it is grayed out, but if you choose Marlin 2, you are able to change the maximum acceleration for travel, 😊
So it depends on your g-code flavor, it is like the Jerk settings, they are not used by klipper, therefore it should not be changed. 😊
Hope it helped. 😊
Hi iv installed OrcaSlicer on my Linux pc and added my printer, but it dosent show the print bed on the prepare or preview tabs. All the settings are on the right of the screen but the rest of the screen is blank. Can you help?
Hi thanks for your question. I can try, do you not have any information in orca at all? Have you tried to import a file?
@TechByHesselbech Also, I've been thinking i have Prusa slicer installed too, do you think that could be conflicting with OrcaSlicer?
@@Gavin3DPrinting that would be quite strange if another slicer would affect another, can you send me an email with a screenshot and I will take a look at it, my email is in my bio.
@TechByHesselbech Hi so i spent a few hours on forums and have found the problem. Its my Nvidia graphics drivers. I have changed to my system graphics and it works just fine. I tried to update my driver to the latest 525 but my graphics card wouldnt accept it as its too old. Im just staying with my onboard Intel graphics untill i can afford a new graphics card. Now i just need to transfer my presets from prusa slicer.
@@Gavin3DPrinting ok, didn’t even know that the graphics card would make this kind of error, but thanks for sharing. glad you sorted it out.
Do you have a profile for the Creality K1 (other than the prebuilt profile supplied)?
Hi John, do you have a specific need in the profile beside the pre-made profile? Because then I could maybe assist you making a profile for Your K1 💯😎
Wow ! Thanks for the fast reply! I am looking for a profile that will help make the supports easier to be removed from the model with minimal scaring. BTW your English is better than mine lol ! @@TechByHesselbech
@@johnmulligan9299 👍🏻💯😊 we can adjust the pre-made profile, I will make the adjustments and post it for you here, then you will have no more issues with bad supports, 💯😀
Bro, you are the 1st TH-camr to offer assistance! If I had some extra cash I would donate it to your channel I swear!@@TechByHesselbech
Arache is 100% hands down. You can use your 0.4mm nozzle to print from 0.42mm to 0.8mm line widths. You will get a much better resolution and save 30% of print time. It´s not even a debate if arachne is better.
Thanks for your comment, I do feel the exact same way, Arachne is by far the best option. 💯👍🏻😎
But some people may think the other is better. 😊
@@TechByHesselbech Everybody has the right to be wrong =)
@@sierraecho884 he he 😅 yeah that is one thing we can agree on. 💯😂
Same presets as bambu labs?
Hi thanks for your question. What you mean by same presets.? If these presets are the same for Bambu studio.?
@@TechByHesselbech yes, im just trying to figure out which of the two is better
@@drakedavon2048 hi , it actually depends on preferences and what printer you are using. If you have a Bambu printer, I would suggest to use Bambu studio because of the way they work together. If you use all other printers, you can also you Bambu studio or Orca. Orca is a Fork of Bambu , but they have just down their own optimizations on Orca, to fit what they believe is the best.
Hope it made sense. 😎
Yes it does thx
Just a couple constructive criticism: 1) Lower volume of music by like 30-40%, while some people might not mind it most people like myself find it very distracting while listening to you (one of the reasons why libraries are silent, it helps to focus). 2) Include video of the test prints to show off before and after quality improvements, otherwise it's just a "trust me bro" kind of video with no proof. It's good to put 5-10 second cuts of the video at the beginning of your video to engage the viewer into watching the whole thing and then again a full 20-30 second video of all the before and after prints wrapping everything up. Hope this helps :)
Dam u really care about the Music i could here this guy clear idk why you guys cant.
@Durant522 thanks for you positive comment. It really means a lot. I dont know why some people say they can’t hear my voice. Some people just give negative comments just because they don’t have anything else to say. Thanks much appreciated. 💜
@@TechByHesselbech no problem man the video was great and clear for me.
@@Durant522 thanks man, really appreciated.
@@Durant522 Clearly if you can hear them perfectly then the audio must be perfect and everyone else must be wrong.
Why oh why didn't I think of that! D'oh!
Curse us all for not being a neurotypical like yourself! We should never try to offer constructive criticism to creators to help them improve their content so that they can grow and reach a larger audience! What a horrendous idea!
what about marlin people
Hi thank you for your comment. ☺️ i Can make a video for people using Marlin, but the difference isn’t that big.
It is very few things that need to be changed, then it’s almost the same.
@@TechByHesselbech the thing for me orca works great but a 10hour print on cura takes 20 on orca but cura won’t finish the print orca finishes need help making it faster tried putting the speeds settings from cura to orca but the names are all difent I need help with that
@@hansherrera6969 hi again, thanks for your comment/question. Okay that makes sense. Just to answer the first part of your comment, if you look at the different parameters which Cura and orca shows in the speed calculation is often different because Cura does not take all parts of the print into the equation when it shows the total print time. 😊 your printer was all stock.? I will try to make a print profile for your specific printer.
@@TechByHesselbech thanks yes all stock printer a neptune 3 plus i can send you pics of my settings that i have now
@@hansherrera6969 yes send me your settings, then I can made a print profile.
The bed size for the Ender 3 S1 Pro 220mm x 220mmm not 235mm.
Hi thanks for your comment, but the bed size is actually 23,5 x 23,5 which is 235x235 but in cura you only type in 220x220 because it needs to have some print space around the actually print space, but in orca you type in the full size (actually) bed size.
But the bed size is 235x235.
Wrong
@@jakefromstatefarm8545 thanks for your very informative comment.
@@jakefromstatefarm8545 Typical keyboard warrior at it again to try to prove something they have no knowledge about
At least he could have mentioned something about what was wrong.
The thing the some don’t understand.
Many have had issues with errors on the coordinates on the ender printers, because they have typed in which is the correct size 235x235, but there was some kind of bug in orca where you had to only type in 220x220 for the bed size.
And he if actually measured the printed of an ender it is in fact 23,5cm x 23,5cm which is 235mm x235mm.
But thanks for stepping up against people that only comment stuff like this, much appreciated.
jesus dude turn the music down, this could be a good video but christ....
Thanks for your comment, it is always great to have constructive feedback.