You obviously put a lot of effort into these videos and they are very much appreciated by beginners like myself. You're making a difference to the lives of a lot of people all over the world. That's pretty cool. EDIT: This comment sounds like one of those bots where the profile pic is a lady in a bikini, but I swear I'm human.
This channel is so underrated. More people need to know about it. Such good, relevant and useful content for us 3d-printer people that want to do more then just download and press print. Keep up the great work!
@@ashleys3dprintshop personally I've never found any of your videos boring or too long. they are all packed with useful and well explained information, taught with the right pace
@@ashleys3dprintshop I think they’re perfect. They’re very information-dense, no fluff or slack, nothing there that doesn’t need to be there. The overall length also seems about right to me, too long would make for too much of a time commitment for each one, but this is a good size to pack in enough info without requiring a major life investment, Kudos and thanks, these are very, very well done!
This is such a great channel. When you thought you know already something: here you will learn something new. Especially the way you explain and show things is outstanding. Thank you for sharing.
Another outstanding video Ashley! I wasn’t aware of the height modifier and after watching, I realized it is a better choice than adaptive layer height for the part I am working on it. I really appreciate the practical videos you are creating; they are very helpful. Thanks!
@@cbgslinger thank you very much. Apparently I gave up on-height modifier too earlier.There isn't way to have more than one in a model. On the left on layers there isn't + - set of buttons that add more. I'll post a followup in a later video or community post.
@@Robothut I will cherish every rewatch. 😂 On another note, perhaps I should change up the pacing. It can be an overwhelming topic as it has a ton of situational applications. The core that is shown, with examples, is more of a starting place. Thank your for the watch[s] and comment.
Glad it was helpful! I wasnt sure exacty how to show "the most versatile tool" without something we all can recreate and modify from scratch but you have verified we made the right call. lol. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! There is more that can be done with the modifiers but this should be a good starting point. Thank you for watching and commenting. 😁
We are still neophytes with the channel but every comment I try to take to heart, and adjust. It's always a balancing act of show, tell but keep everything flowing. 😊many thanks.
Just found your channel, very nice explanations. Just wondering if you can go over the fuzzy settings. I make a part with a fuzzy exterior but has a hole through it so I use a torus modifier to just fuzzy the outside, but I know there are other setting that I have not played with that might give me the same affect with less work. Thanks, Sorry just found your fuzzy tutorial, keeping the comment for algorithm
Off the subject / I have settings for my nozzle temperature, and when I slice and print it prints at a different temperature? Polymaker active foaming LW PLA
Hello. Great question. There are a few places to look at the nozzle temp before slicing printing 1.On the printer itself (cant change it) 2. in the slicer under the device tab (cant change it) 3. When you click the edit(pencil button) on the prepare screen next to the filament type. if you go into it you will see a few options. Recommended nozzle temp( this willl not change the temp) *Underneath that initial layers and other layers. Here is where you make the change*. If you want your model printing at 230 set both values to 230. I would recommend making a profile from here with the save(disk) icon after making the change and naming it. Also you can manually change the temp when the print starts laying down filament.
Been enjoying these videos so much. As a beginner they help a lot! I do have a question that i would love help with. I print a lot of models from anime or marvel and hair (especially) for ladies is a big struggle because the support kinda ruins them. Is there a trick or advice or way i could do it so it comes out in a better way? Thanks beforehand
Hello. Ironically that is one of the things I like to print too. There can be a few ways to print delicate or tricky items, like hair or detailed parts. Don't be afraid to rotate or reposition the part for optimal printing. I generally use tree support slim or organic with a combination of support blockers or enforcers. I may dip into a video showing some tips and tricks if there is interest from the community.
A biggie that you didn't mention was that you can resize and scale the modifiers just like any other part. Click on it then use the buttons at the top, move, resize, scale, etc. to modify exactly what you want.
You are certainly a master. Thank you. New subscriber here.....Is it possible for you to upload that final print as a model? I would like to have it for my own reference when I print things.
Amature Cura user here .I just recently started using Bambu Studio and I have a difficult time seeing the parts with a dark build plate . Is there a way to change the contrast of the build plate ? Thank you in advance
@@bloodyfinger5The plate, currently, always stays dark. So the light mode and the dark mode setting has the same dark color build plate. The alternative is to make the parts look lighter against the dark plate by changing the parts colors. I remember seeing a feedback recommendation form on Bambu forums or their github page. That would be a good recommendation.
This is great. Thanks for taking the time to put this video together. I have learned a few new tools to use in my future projects. *Question* : Does the STL file or 3MF file exist? I surely would love to be able to have it for printing my own. Of course I can take the time to make it from what I have learned today with this video. Thank you again.
@@ashleys3dprintshop Yes, please! I am going to try to create one myself but with different settings than you used but I surely would love to download the one you created and print for reference. Thank you
@@ansiaaa I'm sure there are a ton of personalities that could fit the roll but I do appreciate the compliment. /Bambu lab if you are watching.... Have your people contact my people. Lol🤣
A lot of frustration could be avoided if it was made clear that Modifiers cannot be used with Vase mode. In fact, per-layer settings changes don't work with Vase, either. 'Pause at layer' and 'insert G-code' seem to work...but ONLY if the AMS is disconnected. If Bambu Studio 'sees' the AMS, the logic behind 'pause' and 'resume' gets messed up. AMS can do some great things, but sometimes doing things manually is still the only way to go.
It seems that vase mode can be a little limiting when it comes to modifiers. I know when I select Vase mode nearly all of the settings get tossed and I havent done a deep diver into what gets tossed but I admit you have gone much further in testing than I have.
@@ansiaaa modifiers added after a cut WITH CONNECTORS It’s the connectors that are the problem I was hoping you might find a workaround as you are very good with this stuff
I use modifiers to strengthen sections of my 3D printed aircraft so that I can add strength without adding to much weight It means you can add lines of modifiers that act like wing ribs etc I was devastated that the connectors stop modifiers as joining aircraft parts without connectors is very hard with super glue
@@nellodude yeah I got the part "with modifiers", I just didn't want to repeat it :D btw, I'm not Ashley, just a random dude. I'll try that myself as I said anyway
@@nellodude hey I tried and I got a solution for you. remember I asked you if modifiers weren't working if you added them after the spit (with connectors) or if they would stop working after the cut (with connectors)? if you cut (with connectors) and then add the modifiers, it won't work, but... if you add the modifier and THEN cut (with connectors), the modifier will be automatically added to both parts, and it will work normally
Couldn't you just change all of the 18 modifier cubes in the global settings for numbers of top and bottom layers, and infill %, instead of doing them individually? Then you just need to change the infill type for each cube.
@@archemity There are certainly many ways to make this work. Setting global things before making the 17 cubes can work, then you would just need to change the base "rounded rectangle" I could also make the changes in the first rounded rectangle before making the 17 clones. As I was still working out exactly what I wanted it was more of a free form creation. I made a ton of tests and revisions off camera but I wanted to make the video consise. In the end it made for a short time lapse to music. 😁 Excellent observation. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Your text size does matter. As for a simple tip you can lower the line width to .3mm if if your text is coming out bad. Line width tutorial th-cam.com/video/K6-qhX2S4IY/w-d-xo.html Also if you want to see my model to test. makerworld.com/en/models/528398#profileId-445491
New to 3D printing, shows I have so much to learn. Great content. I have a question, I'm hoping you can answer. I'm trying to make helmets and get the sizing correct. I would like to avoid using another slicer if this can be achieved in Bambu. If you go to the 3:15min mark of the video, is this possible in Bambu studio? Thanks for your help. th-cam.com/video/DVJVYGUvSjI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=O3KnOoP-P-UxW3Do
Hello, thanl you for the question. There is a way do do that with the head shape (not familiar with that model head but you can easily do that adjustment in a similar fashion. But there may be an alternative. In the slicer there is a measure tool. You can measure edges, points etc and you can adjust the helmet accordingly. Click the model click the ruler button, check the size measure point to point, angle etc scale up/down your model. I haven't made a full video on it but it may be a good topic to cover.
You obviously put a lot of effort into these videos and they are very much appreciated by beginners like myself. You're making a difference to the lives of a lot of people all over the world. That's pretty cool.
EDIT: This comment sounds like one of those bots where the profile pic is a lady in a bikini, but I swear I'm human.
This channel is so underrated. More people need to know about it. Such good, relevant and useful content for us 3d-printer people that want to do more then just download and press print. Keep up the great work!
Much appreciated! I don't mind being a small channel. I learn and grow with the community. Thank you for stopping by.
I'm so glad I found your channel. I've found your videos the easiest to watch and understand. Well done sir!!! Thank you
Awesome, thank you! 😁 Still working on balancing instruction, with brevity but I truly appreciate the vote of confidence.
@@ashleys3dprintshop personally I've never found any of your videos boring or too long. they are all packed with useful and well explained information, taught with the right pace
@@ashleys3dprintshop I think they’re perfect. They’re very information-dense, no fluff or slack, nothing there that doesn’t need to be there. The overall length also seems about right to me, too long would make for too much of a time commitment for each one, but this is a good size to pack in enough info without requiring a major life investment, Kudos and thanks, these are very, very well done!
Always happy when one of your videos are posted, because I always learn from it, thank you.
@@meawayfromhome I truly appreciate the watch, comment, and compliment. It's one of the driving factors for this channel. 😊
This is such a great channel.
When you thought you know already something: here you will learn something new.
Especially the way you explain and show things is outstanding.
Thank you for sharing.
Wow, thanks! I learn from everyone and try to share it when I can. Thank you very much for the watch, comment and positivity.
Another outstanding video Ashley! I wasn’t aware of the height modifier and after watching, I realized it is a better choice than adaptive layer height for the part I am working on it. I really appreciate the practical videos you are creating; they are very helpful. Thanks!
@@cbgslinger thank you very much. Apparently I gave up on-height modifier too earlier.There isn't way to have more than one in a model. On the left on layers there isn't + - set of buttons that add more. I'll post a followup in a later video or community post.
Wow. What a great video on using modifiers. So much to take in. I will have to watch this a few times. Thank you for sharing with us.
@@Robothut I will cherish every rewatch. 😂
On another note, perhaps I should change up the pacing. It can be an overwhelming topic as it has a ton of situational applications. The core that is shown, with examples, is more of a starting place. Thank your for the watch[s] and comment.
This is a great presentation. Even if just for replicating the infill chart, is fantastic. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! I wasnt sure exacty how to show "the most versatile tool" without something we all can recreate and modify from scratch but you have verified we made the right call. lol. Thank you.
Very useful and informative...keep up the good work!
Thanks a lot! I truly appreciate that. 😁
Every time I watch a video of yours I always learn new things 👍.
@@OigresAviap You are awesome! Thank you. 😁
You have done a great presentation on this topic. To me it was very mysterious of thing. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! There is more that can be done with the modifiers but this should be a good starting point.
Thank you for watching and commenting. 😁
Excellent video, I always check it for references
Thank you for watching and the positivity . 🙂
I'm surprised you are not more well known. Well done indeed.
Thank you. Consistent and steady to get the info out there. 🙂
Great job as usual mate you're a natural born educator - 'even I' was able to follow and learn from this demo :)
We are still neophytes with the channel but every comment I try to take to heart, and adjust.
It's always a balancing act of show, tell but keep everything flowing. 😊many thanks.
Height modifier speed... I never knew you could change it like that . That's going to help. Thanks....iv got to try that.
I feel I didn't do the modifier justice with the amount of options it opens up. Thank you for watching and commenting. Tell me how it works out.
Just found your channel, very nice explanations. Just wondering if you can go over the fuzzy settings. I make a part with a fuzzy exterior but has a hole through it so I use a torus modifier to just fuzzy the outside, but I know there are other setting that I have not played with that might give me the same affect with less work. Thanks, Sorry just found your fuzzy tutorial, keeping the comment for algorithm
Thank you very much for the watch, comment, recommendation, other watch and leaving the comment to feed the algo. Lol😁
Great video. Learn so much.
Thank you very much for watching and the support.
Off the subject / I have settings for my nozzle temperature, and when I slice and print it prints at a different temperature?
Polymaker active foaming LW PLA
Hello. Great question. There are a few places to look at the nozzle temp before slicing printing
1.On the printer itself (cant change it)
2. in the slicer under the device tab (cant change it)
3. When you click the edit(pencil button) on the prepare screen next to the filament type.
if you go into it you will see a few options.
Recommended nozzle temp( this willl not change the temp)
*Underneath that initial layers and other layers. Here is where you make the change*.
If you want your model printing at 230 set both values to 230.
I would recommend making a profile from here with the save(disk) icon after making the change and naming it.
Also you can manually change the temp when the print starts laying down filament.
Thanks you for the clear explanation and info
Great video
😀Thank you
Been enjoying these videos so much. As a beginner they help a lot! I do have a question that i would love help with. I print a lot of models from anime or marvel and hair (especially) for ladies is a big struggle because the support kinda ruins them. Is there a trick or advice or way i could do it so it comes out in a better way? Thanks beforehand
Hello. Ironically that is one of the things I like to print too. There can be a few ways to print delicate or tricky items, like hair or detailed parts.
Don't be afraid to rotate or reposition the part for optimal printing. I generally use tree support slim or organic with a combination of support blockers or enforcers. I may dip into a video showing some tips and tricks if there is interest from the community.
@@ashleys3dprintshop Thanks man i really appreciate the input and answer!
A biggie that you didn't mention was that you can resize and scale the modifiers just like any other part. Click on it then use the buttons at the top, move, resize, scale, etc. to modify exactly what you want.
@@Chad.The.Flornadian Good call out. You can treat them similar to parts.
You are certainly a master. Thank you. New subscriber here.....Is it possible for you to upload that final print as a model? I would like to have it for my own reference when I print things.
Welcome aboard. I humbly thank you for subscribing.
I added that model to makerworld here if you wanted to have a look.
makerworld.com/models/528398
Thanks, I love to learn.
@@daveapplemotors Thank you for spending time to watch and comment. We will keep the videos coming if they are in some way valued. 🙂
Amature Cura user here .I just recently started using Bambu Studio and I have a difficult time seeing the parts with a dark build plate . Is there a way to change the contrast of the build plate ? Thank you in advance
@@bloodyfinger5The plate, currently, always stays dark. So the light mode and the dark mode setting has the same dark color build plate.
The alternative is to make the parts look lighter against the dark plate by changing the parts colors.
I remember seeing a feedback recommendation form on Bambu forums or their github page. That would be a good recommendation.
This is great. Thanks for taking the time to put this video together. I have learned a few new tools to use in my future projects. *Question* : Does the STL file or 3MF file exist? I surely would love to be able to have it for printing my own. Of course I can take the time to make it from what I have learned today with this video. Thank you again.
Hello, I take it you would like to see my infill chart?
I can upload it to makerworld if you would like.
@@ashleys3dprintshop Yes, please! I am going to try to create one myself but with different settings than you used but I surely would love to download the one you created and print for reference. Thank you
BL should hire you as an evangelist for their products and let you run the content of their social media with tutorials like this
@@ansiaaa I'm sure there are a ton of personalities that could fit the roll but I do appreciate the compliment.
/Bambu lab if you are watching.... Have your people contact my people. Lol🤣
A lot of frustration could be avoided if it was made clear that Modifiers cannot be used with Vase mode.
In fact, per-layer settings changes don't work with Vase, either.
'Pause at layer' and 'insert G-code' seem to work...but ONLY if the AMS is disconnected.
If Bambu Studio 'sees' the AMS, the logic behind 'pause' and 'resume' gets messed up.
AMS can do some great things, but sometimes doing things manually is still the only way to go.
It seems that vase mode can be a little limiting when it comes to modifiers. I know when I select Vase mode nearly all of the settings get tossed and I havent done a deep diver into what gets tossed but I admit you have gone much further in testing than I have.
Thanks but did you know modifiers NO LONGER WORK after a cut with connectors has been performed
really? I'll have to try that! you mean previously added modifiers stop working after the cut, ot even modifiers added after the cut?
@@ansiaaa modifiers added after a cut WITH CONNECTORS
It’s the connectors that are the problem
I was hoping you might find a workaround as you are very good with this stuff
I use modifiers to strengthen sections of my 3D printed aircraft so that I can add strength without adding to much weight
It means you can add lines of modifiers that act like wing ribs etc
I was devastated that the connectors stop modifiers as joining aircraft parts without connectors is very hard with super glue
@@nellodude yeah I got the part "with modifiers", I just didn't want to repeat it :D
btw, I'm not Ashley, just a random dude. I'll try that myself as I said anyway
@@nellodude hey I tried and I got a solution for you.
remember I asked you if modifiers weren't working if you added them after the spit (with connectors) or if they would stop working after the cut (with connectors)?
if you cut (with connectors) and then add the modifiers, it won't work, but...
if you add the modifier and THEN cut (with connectors), the modifier will be automatically added to both parts, and it will work normally
I cant figure ANYTHING out.
Hello. Do you have a specific question about modifiers?
Have you seen my earlier videos as they are a good starting place before reaching this point.
Couldn't you just change all of the 18 modifier cubes in the global settings for numbers of top and bottom layers, and infill %, instead of doing them individually? Then you just need to change the infill type for each cube.
@@archemity There are certainly many ways to make this work.
Setting global things before making the 17 cubes can work, then you would just need to change the base "rounded rectangle"
I could also make the changes in the first rounded rectangle before making the 17 clones.
As I was still working out exactly what I wanted it was more of a free form creation. I made a ton of tests and revisions off camera but I wanted to make the video consise. In the end it made for a short time lapse to music. 😁
Excellent observation. Thank you for watching and commenting.
For the life of me I can’t get my text to print even 10% as clean as that. How?
Your text size does matter. As for a simple tip you can lower the line width to .3mm if if your text is coming out bad.
Line width tutorial
th-cam.com/video/K6-qhX2S4IY/w-d-xo.html
Also if you want to see my model to test.
makerworld.com/en/models/528398#profileId-445491
thanks for not adding background music! : )
Indeed. The community quickly told me to cut the BGM over the tutorials and the feedback was greatly appreciated. 😁
🤘BITCHIN🤘 ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
@@dsemolian3071 😁😁
New to 3D printing, shows I have so much to learn. Great content. I have a question, I'm hoping you can answer. I'm trying to make helmets and get the sizing correct. I would like to avoid using another slicer if this can be achieved in Bambu. If you go to the 3:15min mark of the video, is this possible in Bambu studio? Thanks for your help.
th-cam.com/video/DVJVYGUvSjI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=O3KnOoP-P-UxW3Do
Hello, thanl you for the question. There is a way do do that with the head shape (not familiar with that model head but you can easily do that adjustment in a similar fashion.
But there may be an alternative. In the slicer there is a measure tool. You can measure edges, points etc and you can adjust the helmet accordingly.
Click the model click the ruler button, check the size measure point to point, angle etc
scale up/down your model. I haven't made a full video on it but it may be a good topic to cover.