NEWBIES READ HERE: I think everyone who is new to small motor ownership should know there were many device longevity steps left out of this video, which in a sense means no newbies should follow this video. If you only do what's in this video, your pressure washer will not start next season, and maybe not even next month. This is more for prosumers to make sure they aren't missing any steps or what comes with it. Newbie steps should include: 0) There are two manuals, one for the complete pressure washer, one for the engine, this is normal for washers, mowers, etc. Even then the “manufacturer” is just combining different parts that are from different companies: Engine, Pump, frame and parts. 1) lubricate the handle bar arm where it joins the base before attaching (it could grind paint, which leads to rust corrosion and metal bonding) - white lithium grease, 3-in-1, Super Lube silicone, NOT DW-40 2) check as many bolts as possible for tightness - cheaper units are known to come undone from the heavy vibration 3) check wheels connection bolts - again cheaper units are known to come undone from the heavy vibration 4) take pictures of the unit from all sides including original stickers 5) DO NOT fill the oil with entire bag without checking engine manual for capacity - overfilling is bad; 6) Check engine manual for when to change oil on new engine, it may be only after 5 hours - metal shavings may appear in first change 7) ONLY use marine gas also known as ethanol-free gas. This removes a huge factor of small engine failure. 7a) Fill metal gas tank to top before storing 7b) use fuel stabilizer per research before storing. 8) Use pump saver regularly and after first use. It’s cheap. The valve and seals internally can gunk up with debris and hard water. *Pump Saver is a liquid sold in a small 12-16oz bottle that is used for winter storage prepping or just general flushing out the water and tiny contaminants and metal shavings that could lead to the water pump portion of your pressure washer getting early wear and tear on the orings or oxidation in the internal metal. (edit added 2 years later for clarity 03-26-24) 9) Use white or yellow PTFE (plumbers) tape on ALL metal screw connections from garden hose all the way to gun and gun wands. ALL. Alternatively use white lithium grease or even both. Look up videos on how to apply plumbers or Teflon tape and full clean removal. Corrosion on metal is extremely common. The fittings will seize together eventually. 9b) Do not allow strands of frayed teflon tape into the line; start tape after one edge of screw thread. 10) On all connections at pump outlet: Use fishing reel lube or Super Lube silicone on all quick connect fittings and M22 o-rings. O-rings are consumables and you buy more time lubricating them. Look inside the female side of a quick connect fitting, you’ll see one o-ring. Inside the female M22 you will see 2 o-rings. Also lubricate the ball bearings in the quick connects. 11) Take care where the exhaust is pointing; it will melt/burn siding, burn grass 12) If you don't do #6 and #7 and #8 consider your $400 investment a yearly fee. If you’re time is more valuable than $2000 a year to hire a quality insured local pro; don’t buy, just hire. Otherwise learn all this, write it down, be organized with the parts and maintenance. There is no in-between. 13) Don’t let anyone borrow this. What if they get lazy and don’t buy marine gas, what if they let clump of dirt through garden hose into pump inlet, what if they tilt it while running more than 25° which shifts the oil causing engine damage you don’t see for another 20 hours. Lots of what ifs. My steps are to prevent having to do maintenance you don’t know how to do. Once you remove control of those variables you’re back to step #12
That number 13 already happen to me.. lend it to a neighbour just for a week, but end up received back the unit with a clogged carburetor, can start but wont rev up.. dont know what nasty fuel they'd been putting inside my tank.
@@harisyoung4110 I assume you got on youtube to troubleshoot your unit and found my list. Sorry for your troubles, and glad to kind of know I foretold of the problems correctly. As I said in #12, there is no in-between. Hire, or nerd out on it.
As far as #7 goes I've had to settle for using Sta-Bil in my fuel I live in the middle of nowhere nearest gas station is nearly 40 minutes away and unfortunately state may contain 10% ethanol nearest fuel station that has ethanol free is over two hours away.
Same here I've been searching everything it doesn't even fit neither oil caps , and I filled oil where the dipstick is not the black one hope I did it right
Hey I just called customer service it's a red bolt on top of your pump remove that and put the oil plug that came in the plastic bag there they said they don't ship it with breather plug they say you can't run it unless you do it
@@marcoserramuspe5830 One is for filling the other is for venting when filling so the air trapped in the block doesn't bubble the oil your pouring in back out on you when filling it. You remove the black plug to give the air an escape route as the block gets full of oil from the grey side or vice versa doesn't matter which side you fill it from as long as you remove both plugs.
So I followed all the steps. It ran for about a minute then stopped by itself. I waited a couple hours, came back. It restarted but then stopped by itself again. What should I do?
Mine ran for 5-10mins and then quit abruptly. Went to restart and couldn’t turn the engine over (assumed it seised). Waited half hour and the engine could be turned over, however the engine wouldn’t start. I returned for a refund and will never buy a Simpson product again.
Mine has the throttle adjustment from turtle-rabit when do I idle it up? Run it at highest rpm? The manual has nothing regarding it. When increasing rpm it will stall out regardless how slow I increase the rpm unless I'm holding the sprayer open while increasing rpm.
Crank it with the throttle all the way up or at least 80 -100% the torque the pump needs to build the pressure will stall out the engine when its cold if the engine is not running fast enough. Also dont disengage the choke all the way back it off about halfway give or take keep it there until the engine gets near running temp then you can turn it off. Small engine repair shop guy told me to do those 2 things with any small engine and you will never have an engine stall out on you again.
I’m disappointed. I finally had to replace my old Simpson ps and this thing has some irritating features. For one, calling it a professional unit and not coming with quick disconnects ? Then placing the hose fitting close to the muffler and pressure regulator makes it basically impossible to remove by hand. Then painting the muffler shroud black like the air breather ? I’ve already put my hand on it once accidentally using it in low light. So have my coworkers. Works great but professional it’s not. Makes me often wonder if these idiots who designed this garbage ever worked in their lives other than on a computer.
NEWBIES READ HERE: I think everyone who is new to small motor ownership should know there were many device longevity steps left out of this video, which in a sense means no newbies should follow this video. If you only do what's in this video, your pressure washer will not start next season, and maybe not even next month. This is more for prosumers to make sure they aren't missing any steps or what comes with it.
Newbie steps should include:
0) There are two manuals, one for the complete pressure washer, one for the engine, this is normal for washers, mowers, etc. Even then the “manufacturer” is just combining different parts that are from different companies: Engine, Pump, frame and parts.
1) lubricate the handle bar arm where it joins the base before attaching (it could grind paint, which leads to rust corrosion and metal bonding) - white lithium grease, 3-in-1, Super Lube silicone, NOT DW-40
2) check as many bolts as possible for tightness - cheaper units are known to come undone from the heavy vibration
3) check wheels connection bolts - again cheaper units are known to come undone from the heavy vibration
4) take pictures of the unit from all sides including original stickers
5) DO NOT fill the oil with entire bag without checking engine manual for capacity - overfilling is bad;
6) Check engine manual for when to change oil on new engine, it may be only after 5 hours - metal shavings may appear in first change
7) ONLY use marine gas also known as ethanol-free gas. This removes a huge factor of small engine failure. 7a) Fill metal gas tank to top before storing 7b) use fuel stabilizer per research before storing.
8) Use pump saver regularly and after first use. It’s cheap. The valve and seals internally can gunk up with debris and hard water. *Pump Saver is a liquid sold in a small 12-16oz bottle that is used for winter storage prepping or just general flushing out the water and tiny contaminants and metal shavings that could lead to the water pump portion of your pressure washer getting early wear and tear on the orings or oxidation in the internal metal. (edit added 2 years later for clarity 03-26-24)
9) Use white or yellow PTFE (plumbers) tape on ALL metal screw connections from garden hose all the way to gun and gun wands. ALL. Alternatively use white lithium grease or even both. Look up videos on how to apply plumbers or Teflon tape and full clean removal. Corrosion on metal is extremely common. The fittings will seize together eventually. 9b) Do not allow strands of frayed teflon tape into the line; start tape after one edge of screw thread.
10) On all connections at pump outlet: Use fishing reel lube or Super Lube silicone on all quick connect fittings and M22 o-rings. O-rings are consumables and you buy more time lubricating them. Look inside the female side of a quick connect fitting, you’ll see one o-ring. Inside the female M22 you will see 2 o-rings. Also lubricate the ball bearings in the quick connects.
11) Take care where the exhaust is pointing; it will melt/burn siding, burn grass
12) If you don't do #6 and #7 and #8 consider your $400 investment a yearly fee. If you’re time is more valuable than $2000 a year to hire a quality insured local pro; don’t buy, just hire. Otherwise learn all this, write it down, be organized with the parts and maintenance. There is no in-between.
13) Don’t let anyone borrow this. What if they get lazy and don’t buy marine gas, what if they let clump of dirt through garden hose into pump inlet, what if they tilt it while running more than 25° which shifts the oil causing engine damage you don’t see for another 20 hours. Lots of what ifs. My steps are to prevent having to do maintenance you don’t know how to do. Once you remove control of those variables you’re back to step #12
That number 13 already happen to me.. lend it to a neighbour just for a week, but end up received back the unit with a clogged carburetor, can start but wont rev up.. dont know what nasty fuel they'd been putting inside my tank.
@@harisyoung4110 I assume you got on youtube to troubleshoot your unit and found my list. Sorry for your troubles, and glad to kind of know I foretold of the problems correctly. As I said in #12, there is no in-between. Hire, or nerd out on it.
Thank you for the information! I’m glad I came across this and found your statement one of the most informative I’ve come across. Thanks again
@@NathanBrantley mine have two oil csps the grey for fillin and a black one that don't say anywhere what is for?
As far as #7 goes I've had to settle for using Sta-Bil in my fuel I live in the middle of nowhere nearest gas station is nearly 40 minutes away and unfortunately state may contain 10% ethanol nearest fuel station that has ethanol free is over two hours away.
Hi, I think for the last one you're moving the lever in the wrong direction for the choke
My 4000 came with a little "oil" cap in a plastic baggie and I can't figure out what it is for since the oil fill has a dip stick.
Same here I've been searching everything it doesn't even fit neither oil caps , and I filled oil where the dipstick is not the black one hope I did it right
Hey I just called customer service it's a red bolt on top of your pump remove that and put the oil plug that came in the plastic bag there they said they don't ship it with breather plug they say you can't run it unless you do it
@@trevongardner1723 why have one grey cap for filling the oil and in the other side a black one?
@@marcoserramuspe5830 One is for filling the other is for venting when filling so the air trapped in the block doesn't bubble the oil your pouring in back out on you when filling it. You remove the black plug to give the air an escape route as the block gets full of oil from the grey side or vice versa doesn't matter which side you fill it from as long as you remove both plugs.
@@Brad.W thanks bro!
I just took 2 of these back to lowes today. First the wheels fell off, clips broke. Second the engine blew. Yes the oil was is it.
Same, engine failure. Horrible product
So I followed all the steps. It ran for about a minute then stopped by itself. I waited a couple hours, came back. It restarted but then stopped by itself again. What should I do?
I. Uj, Ugh
Mine ran for 5-10mins and then quit abruptly. Went to restart and couldn’t turn the engine over (assumed it seised). Waited half hour and the engine could be turned over, however the engine wouldn’t start. I returned for a refund and will never buy a Simpson product again.
Why my gx 270 have 2 oil caps the one to fill and have a black one in the other side?
Mine has the throttle adjustment from turtle-rabit when do I idle it up? Run it at highest rpm? The manual has nothing regarding it. When increasing rpm it will stall out regardless how slow I increase the rpm unless I'm holding the sprayer open while increasing rpm.
Crank it with the throttle all the way up or at least 80 -100% the torque the pump needs to build the pressure will stall out the engine when its cold if the engine is not running fast enough. Also dont disengage the choke all the way back it off about halfway give or take keep it there until the engine gets near running temp then you can turn it off. Small engine repair shop guy told me to do those 2 things with any small engine and you will never have an engine stall out on you again.
Extremely frustrating assembly experience. The instructions in box should have key representing each part. Especially pertaining to quick set up.
How do I buy one in India ?
Thank you!!!!
How much amount
mine came from the factory with a defect. simpson wont answer phone. rings for a short time and then goes dead.
I’m disappointed. I finally had to replace my old Simpson ps and this thing has some irritating features. For one, calling it a professional unit and not coming with quick disconnects ? Then placing the hose fitting close to the muffler and pressure regulator makes it basically impossible to remove by hand. Then painting the muffler shroud black like the air breather ? I’ve already put my hand on it once accidentally using it in low light. So have my coworkers. Works great but professional it’s not. Makes me often wonder if these idiots who designed this garbage ever worked in their lives other than on a computer.
Bought one today 😝🤘🏾
Wow terrible instructions in the box. Worse than ikea