Pulling Multiple Dents and Dings with a Stud Welder - Start to Finish
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Provides valuable information on how to remove multiple dings and dents with a stud welder and a Pogo Stick alignment bar on dented and damaged panels. Gives tips on how to pull, bump, and fill numerous dents at one time saving you time, materials, money and frustration.
Tools and Materials:
Stud Welder: www.harborfrei...
Pogo Stick: ALC KEYSCO 77175 PULLER HUSTLER POGO STICK
Sander/Polisher/Grinder: www.harborfrei...
36 Grit Fiber Resin Grinding Disc: benchmarkabras...
Body Hammer: MARTIN TOOLS 153G CROSS CHISEL HAMMER WITH HICKORY HANDLE
Pulling Vise Grips: STECK 20085 EZ PULL PLIERS
Filler: Auto Body Master Light Weight Body Filler
Metal Spreaders: Coster 1101, 4 inch Metal Spreaders
Cheese Grater Blade: Stanley 21-299A, Surform 10" Half Round
Bondo Hog - National Detroit 8" Dual Action Variable Speed Sander
Air File: ALC KEYSCO V100 VIKING DUAL PISTON STRAIGHT LINE SANDER
Medium Length Sanding Board: www.autobodyto...
Masking Tape: 3M Auto Body Refinishing Tape
DA - National Detroit DA Sander
Spray Gun: www.jbtools.co...
Primer Surfacer: Evercoat Feather Fill thinned 5-10% with lacquer thinner - (basically just a bit of thinner to make it spray easier) - very thick stuff!
/ @lakesideautobody
Back in 1976 I was living in Japan and had the occasion to visit one of their auto body shops. It was the first time I ever saw a stud welder. Instead of using a pogo stick to pull the dents they had a small slide hammer designed to grip the studs, then repeatedly working from one stud to the other, would methodically work out the dents. When done, almost no filler was needed. It was impressive.
Hi Jerry, I hope you're having a great summer. I don't have a stud welder yet, so I've been using finish nails as studs, tacking them with my mig welder. Its not glamorous, but I thought I would share the idea with everyone; it works well. Thanks for another great video, stay cool my friend!
Is it really wrong if it works!
You too Erich - sorry about the late reply - sometimes I don't get alerts on comments and end up missing them :)
You make it look to easy Jerry...Great work!
Thanks UPK - always a pleasure hearing from you :)
That pogo stick looks a lot more controllable than a slide hammer. 👍
You're right - pull from almost any angle with light or heavy pressure.
🛻 🦯🚶♂️💥
Since used car/new car prices are going bonkers lately, I imagine a lot of people will be keeping their old cars much longer. Learning a lot from all your videos. Thanks.
Especially trucks. C10s and OBS trucks are definitely making a big comeback. I have a old Ford step side and I get offer to buy it every time I drive it.
@@MrClarkisgod I have a 1997 F250--it's a beater though that I paid $1500 for and use for errands after fixing it up a little. I see the nice ones on craigslist and they just keep getting more and more pricey.
Come out realy nice great job and have a nice weekend stay sfe
Nice work. I always learn something from watching your videos. Thanks!
You're welcome - thanks for the support :)
I need this vice grip flat end puller. I was able to get some deep dents out with my pogo puller yesterday,
You do nice work. Talented!
Thanks for the support Daddy Crab. Cool name BTW :)
@@LakesideAutobody no problem sir. Thank you!
Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to explain the technique as well as show it.
You're welcome. You've got a nice channel - Jerry
I did enjoy your demonstration of working with a stud welder and pogo stick. 👍
Obviously a lot better control than a slide hammer.
Thanks for the lesson.
Have a great weekend Jerry!
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it. You have a good weekend too :)
What's surprising besides the awesome job Jerry did on the body work is that there's a GMT 400 truck this age in Michigan that the bedside isn't completely rotted out on.
Great job as always. Love the pogo stick. Such a great system
Glad you like it PSG - have a great week :)
I’d just fix each individual dent then lay the primer thick. Screw working 2 pounds of filler
Very good Jerry! Your videos are always very helpful no matter the subject! I really appreciate you taking the time to film your work while adding tips and instruction.
Was wondering at 16:00, will the front edges of the bed be sanded with just a small block sander?
Yes - that does look a bit rough. The whole area will now be block sanded nice and straight (I'll make a video on that - real detailed). It will be primed again, finish sanded with 240-320 (DA) your choice of grit. Then finally painted. Glad you like the content - good to hear from you Ethan - have a good weekend :)
Nice job thanks for teaching us personally I really appreciate it god bless you always
You're welcome Carlos - God bless you too. Have a good week :)
Muy bien trabajo
Gotta love a guy who uses all the right safety equipment too.
except a face shield while pulling right next to his face.
You're the man Jerry! Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for watching and you're welcome. Good to hear from you as always :)
Do you have a part number or name for the clamping block for the studs or is it diy? Some days my H.F. stud welder works and some days the studs will not stick at all. It may be headed for the recycle bin.
forget the question on the clamping block as I've looked much closer and see what it is. Was in the sun too much today, ha!
Suprised there was that much metal in that wheel well..
Thanks for another great video Jerry. Your tips and technique are very valuable. You do a terrific job of explaining how it is done.
Thanks Bluesman - I appreciate the support - always good to hear from you :)
Great video!
Great video Jerry! Well explained with all the details of how-to shown.
Thanks Ernest - enjoy the rest of the week :)
this was a great help to me thank you. Did you have any issues with spraying the feather fill over the filler?
Feather fill was originally made to be sprayed over bare metal and fillers so no there were no issues. Feather fill actually came out before epoxy primers and urethane primers so it was commonly used this way. It was also thinned commonly with lacquer thinner. Some polyester primers require thinning with acetone. I still use thinner w/o issues. Have a good weekend JM :)
@@LakesideAutobody that is great news. That will save me tons of time. I also never heard of the pogo before too. That will be a great help to me. I’m doing a down to metal restore on my 1969 Chevy van. It will be my first dtm job My second vehicle I’ve done. I did a 71 super beetle with cheap crap paint, I learned a lot hopefully the van turns out much better. Thanks for the help man
@@johnmartin5153 You're welcome John - feel free to ask ?s while working on that van. Let me know how it goes for you :)
Lot of info on this video. 👍 After watching your videos on bodylines several times I was able to complete a complex(for me) compound bodyline repair earlier this year. Not on the first try! But I kept going back and working until only a sharp eye could ever tell it was crunched before. Once it was painted, I was very content the results. Stud welder is on my list for the coming year as I have more projects lined up for next spring/summer/fall.
That is just great to hear. It's good that you stuck with it. Each time you do it - you get better and better. Thanks for the story Scott :)
Hello Jerry , great video!
Can you tell me the name of that type of vice grip, I want to order a pair.
Thank you very much Bob
Baltimore Maryland
Sure - STECK 20085 EZ PULL PLIERS - Thanks for you support and glad you enjoyed the video :)
Just what I needed 🤟🏼 I have a couple creases like that to address, doesn’t feather fill want acetone as a reducer?
Yes they do say acetone but I've been using lacquer thinner since the 80's with ff - that's what my boss told us to use and it works fine. I'm thinking they may have changed due to environmental reasons - not sure. Both will work fine.
👍🏻Thanks for another great video.
You sure make it look easy! The only problem I found with ordering the feather fill is when you get the can it’s in rough shape.
You're absolutely right! That's funny. Mine was all dented up too. Crazy.... Have a good weekend Michael.
Thanks from Down under.
Love some of your terms, Bondo Hog , we just call it bog. So would be Bog Hog😅
1% tool
20% touch
20% sound
20% vision
Balance = Skill
David
You're welcome from Michigan - the tool does have a cool sound for sure. Thanks for watching David :)
that year model chevy truck ,no need to use the sander ,JUST WAIT ANOTHER 15 MINUTES AND THE PAINT WILL FALL OFF .Lol😁
I think they were experimenting back then with different paints. I think they have the paint thing down now though :)
If you don't tap around the dents would you end up with a high spot
Yes. That's sort of why using the slide hammer alone doesn't work really well :)
No thanks to using a pogo stick, seems effective but also very dangerous having your face right there, ill settle for a frame machine or slide puller
I've gotten injured many different ways in a body shop but never by the pogo stick. Worst was having my hand over a fender wet sanding with the other hand and a coworker slammed the hood shut - old rigid hood too - like a 77 Monte Carlo or something like that.
New cars tend to have thinner metal. Can you pull dents using a stud welder on 50s and 60s cars? All my dents tend to be in locations where I can’t get a tool or hammer on the back side.
Very few dents can be accessed from the back that's why almost all dents are pulled. You can use a stud welder, or you can MIG weld fender shims to the panel and pull from them - even small pieces of sheet metal. I have a lot of videos on dent removal with various methods if interested - th-cam.com/play/PLOP9eoG14-I_dTwNiWP5XJCitguFJzZEZ.html
I noticed you have glasses or safety glasses on an I too wear glasses now but here’s a tip for you again
Sometimes I work on two or three at a time so I put first coat on with blue or red cream hardner and then the other one on second coat for quicker low to high spots and if I do used a third it’s usually for the fact I’m trying not to use two part putty I mix both half and half for a gray color on my final sanding I love the black guide coat to look for scratches and pinholes also that was a neat ideal with 2x4 to set poko stick on
Thanks Scoot and thanks for the tips. I found these for my safety glasses - they are magnified lenses like reading glasses. www.safetyglassesusa.com/pyramex-emerge-safety-glasses-translucent-gray-frame-clear-full-magnifying-lens/
When you were sanding around the wheel arch is it easier to use a solid block Or something with a little flex
There's really no rules on that. I guess you just have to find what works best for you. Most of the folks I worked with used stiff boards on everything - nothing fancy. Everyone used 17" a 9" (sort of rare) or the 4" rubber block - that's it. You might keep an old section of heater hose around for some curved stuff but it would be just as easy to roll up some used sand paper and make do with that. Solid blocks are the key to straightness in my mind. Hope that helps a bit. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Yes that definitely helps I was just thinking if a panel is curved than a solid block will not conform around the curve
@@leonardcrisci7254 Often times on curves you can use the edge of the boards. I'll do a video specifically on that issue - good subject :)
@@LakesideAutobody Gotcha thank you
Hi Mr Jerry I'm new to your channel and totally new to body work and painting, over the past year I've been amassing spray guns installed compressor, I have a 67 mustang I wish to restore and might need advise from time to time if u dont mind. Thx...
No problem - ask any ?, any time, any video. I answer ?s/comments once or twice a day. Jerry
Once again amazing tutorial 👍
I appreciate that Aly Jan - have a good weekend :)
Love how old school you are what are your thoughts on this method v.s welding copper wave wire with a slide hammer?
It's pretty much the same thing only I'm not a big fan of the slide hammer for dents. You really need to pull on the lows while tapping on the high or crowned areas. I think the wave wire along with the pogo or alignment bar would work fine :)
Mystery solved! I’d been wondering what a stud welder did. I see one every time I go to either HF or Northern Tool. Fortunately, not a tool I need to buy! What CFH does the air sander pull? Another great video sir!
The 8" round one is not bad on air - probably the same as a DA sander. The air file uses a bit more but still runs well with a smaller 1hp, 110v, 20-30 gallon compressor.
@@LakesideAutobody I like the air file but I’m wrapping up my project and hopefully won’t need it. Now I’m off to re watch your hammer and dolly video. The jackasses I bought the Rover from used about three inches of filler to fill in a dent on top of the left wing. It’s made of aluminum….. it took me 5 minutes to tap it mostly straight again. As always thanks for the videos.
@@chrismitchell45 Keep me posted on your projects - love to hear the stories. As always thanks for watching and good talking :)
Hi Jerry thanks for your video, just got my stud welder, do I have to disconnect battery to use the stud welder?
I do. I'm sure you can get away with it - I have forgotten many times and never had issues :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks
I don't see this question addressed to much on use of stud guns or using welding tabs so my question is: If using a stud gun like that( which I just recently purchased) what is the procedure for the car battery and or the computer or pcm for newer cars/trucks? Is the voltage more in the area of the stud gun and not a concern for the electronics? I slide into a concrete bridge barrier on an over pass turn on a slick evening with my 2011 durango and the rear wheel arch inside the door is pushed in a bit, it's not thin metal and wonder what the best solution would be for pulling it out. I have a dent pulling kit with slide hammer/ stud gun or a welder to weld some tabs on the areas, my concern with the welder is blowing up electronics in the vehicle, what's the best approach in your expert opinion. I am learning a lot from your videos and appreciate you taking the time to show the rest of us how it's done, keep up the good work.
When ever I MIG weld or use a stud welder I unhook the negative battery terminal. I was taught that but am not totally sure if it makes a difference. I have forgot a few times but nothing ever go damaged - never - not one problem. So... that being said I try to stay on the safe side and undo the neg term. Jerry
Do you ever use pull rods? Drill the holes and pull the dents out with a pull rod?
My dad had some of those and I have used them at times - they definitely come in handy now and then. The only disadvantage is the hole - not that it's really going to hurt anything as it is usually up high but I feel guilty doing it w/o welding it up - and welding it up can be a hassle. If it works for you though - by all means - do it. Jerry
watching you spray, you sir are a machine.
Thanks my friend - I appreciate the kind comments :)
Great video
Thanks :)
Another great video Jerry. I wish we lived closer. We could play guitar and work on cars... 😂😂 keep the videos coming. Great info as always. I have learned a lot from you.
That would be great Bob. Always cool to sit down and jam with someone else. I'm glad to hear you're learning a lot - love it. Have a great week my friend :)
Hi, great video but I've got to point out one issue. You reduce polyester spray filler (Feather Fill or any of the others) with Acetone and not Lacquer Thinner. Other than that this was really a good issue.
Back in the 80's the boss made us use lacquer thinner - I believe the can said thinner too but not sure. I'll have to research that. I believe it has something to do with environmental issues that it was changed. Might be wrong though. Thanks for the comment Sataman - always a pleasure to hear from you - have a good week :)
Does self etching primer work with enamel paint Lakeside? Do I need a primer sealer with the etching primer also ? I'm asking because I welded a door skin grinded and knock welds down and put filler on I didn't put primer on bare metal
You are fine. You don't need primer or any kind before filler - just freshly ground metal. It is not required no matter what you hear on the internet. What kind of primer are you going to use after you do your filler work?
@@LakesideAutobody what kind of primer do you suggest?
@@tonywhite9761 I use lacquer primer surfacer by Auto Body Master but that's a bit old fashioned - it works fine though. I would find yourself a name brand Urethane Primer Surfacer that's going to be around for a while because once you get used to a brand you stick with it. I've used Auto Body Master urethane primer surfacer and I like that but not sure if you can find it where you live. Go to your nearest, handy auto part store or paint supply store and find a brand you like. They will usually continue carrying that brand and you can always count on getting it there. Sometimes they can answer questions you may have too :)
Perfect! Thanks so much for a great, straightforward demo!
You're welcome RC :)
@lakesideautobody why can't the Feather fill be finish sanded and painted?
You can paint over feather fill if you want. I just prefer to sand regular primer when it comes to finish sanding. Feather fill is a little bit harder to sand :)
@@LakesideAutobody So it's easier to sand the feather fill, then prime, finish sand, then paint... instead of sand then paint? Is does it affect the quality of the paint or something if you skip the other 2 steps?
@@Superado2006 It doesn't effect the quality of the paint if you skip the other 2 steps. Since I block sanded with 80 grit, it's just easier to prime with some regular primer - it fills those 80 grit scratches and it is easier to sand. It's not recommended to sand primer with say 120 grit and then try to sand it with something finer to prepare for paint. Best practice is: prime / block / prime / finish sand / paint - that's just the normal process but it's not carved in stone - as long as you've got your primer down to the grit you want - you've succeeded.
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much for the honest and clear answers. So if I finish sand my filler let's say to 180-220 then prime and sand with 400 I'd be good to paint then right? Thanks in advance! God bless!
@@Superado2006 Yes you will be fine doing it like that but it's a harder process. Your body filler (bondo) should be be finished to 80 grit. Your primer surfacer like Feather Fill will be finished 80, 120, or 180 something around there (your choice). Your final priming will be finished with 220-320 (DA) or 400 (wet sand). Then paint. Hope that helps - if not ask again - you're welcome btw - Jerry
Do you ever use slapping spoons / files to whack down the eyebrows ?
Yes, I have but I figure the panel is going to be filled so I just use a hammer (good idea for a video though). I think the slapping spoon is less damaging and meant for metal finishing. Not too much metal finishing goes on in a production body shop like dealerships, etc.
Jim have you tried Keco hot glue products
I have not. Is that what you use for pulling dents?
Yes I used different glue and tabs
@@goneplatinumpaintlessdentr3102 OK thanks :)
What grit did you use to grind welds off
Always use 36 or 40 grit fiber resin disks on an air grinder or sander - slow speed to keep heat and sparks down :)
Thanks im about to start on my truck
Awesome video! Does this work on a heavier steel body like a 60's delivery truck with a big dent?
Yes. You can also use a come-along - doesn't have to be expensive - like a HF one. Park the van near a tree and pull from the tree or another car/truck. Let me know how it goes for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you! To do a heavier gauge steel would I need a stud welder that has thicker studs? Or put them closer together so I can clamp on to 4 or 5 in a smaller area?
Is it cheaper to do it this way or buy the whole panel
It's always cheaper to fix than replace. That is if you can do it yourself. Also, it's good to know that keeping the original panel is sometimes better because the original factory undercoating or primer put on at the factory is better than most shops will do on a replacement panel. Many time replacement panels rust out fast because of lack of undercoating or proper coatings on the back side of the panel :)
You think the dealership
Body shops just replace the panel or is it more time consuming for them to fix it the way you did
They would probably replace. If it's small dings like hail, they will probably fix. All depends on the shop really.
How perfect the bondo work should be? Every single time after I done my bondo work I put my hands on panel and I feel nice and flat. But after paint I still can see the micro low area between bondo and undamaged surface . Painter don’t sand the primer so I think that’s what the problem is? What do you think about this situation?
Excellent ?! It should be close but it will never be perfect until you block sand it and get it perfect through that process. Watch this playlist and you'll be the master at getting panels straight - I promise. If you have any more ?s feel free to ask - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thank you Jerry 🙏
Hey Zheng, thanks for the question - I have a blocking primer video coming up and I think I'll address your question in the video - it is a very common ? that many folks are wondering about.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for your video Jerry . It happens sometimes but it’s good time to learn how to work on primer 😄 I appreciate it!
Awesome video. Got a question though. I thought you had to use self etching primer on the bare metal areas before using a high build primer. Does the feather fill take care of all that in one step?
One step for feather fill - even though the TDS says you need epoxy primer. We used it in the 80's all the time - no epoxy primer (don't think there was even epoxy primer out back then). One step for lacquer primer and DTM urethane primer too. DTM is direct to metal. You should use epoxy primer first on aluminum though.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks a lot. I need to learn more about different types of products. Maybe a good idea for a video?
@@chipparker781 You're right - just wrote it down. I'll get to that one soon - it's good to know the truth on all that stuff so you know exactly what to spend your $ on.
We’re did you get the pliers?
www.amazon.com/Steck-Manufacturing-20085-Pull-Plier/dp/B0015DQH44
Those are sweet 🤟🏼 I’m going to have to make one out of a Milwaukee, they are easy on the hands and grip super tight if you haven’t seen them.
@@PnwOnTour Sounds like a good plan - I'm sure you could make a good pair. Let me know how it goes for you. Have a good weekend Gmguy - good to hear from you as always :)
As always, another great video.
Thanks Marty - have a good weekend :)
I was kinda hoping you'd leave the sign and just clear coat it. Another great video....thanks! Almost forgot, thanks for listing the tools and materials.
That would be cool actually - good idea for a video :)