This exact thing happened to my outcast 4s v2 just 3 rides in @ 2 days old..I was able to pick up a set of 4 and file down the plastic so the new clip set flush. Hopefully they come out with a fix.
Yes you are correct they have said they are aware. It'll be good to see if they fix this before the release , that would be VERY WISE. But wouldn't you agree it's a little odd that I didn't receive an envelope after receiving the box with the repaired upgraded part so that I wouldn't experience the issue that I'm experiencing? 😳🤔😜
@@rcguygarage I don't get why they didn't let you test it before showing it to us . They did that with the FT , do they really have time to change production at that point. Bro you ran that thing to long , no rc in the world would take that . It's same Kevin. Smashing on concrete till breaks . You mechanic and git for free you are a pisser
@@dutch1800 hopefully people understand that from the automotive industry as you're never supposed to buy the first year vehicle😂🤣 I will tell you though if I had to pony up the cash for this I would have to learning the couple of minor issues that it has and possibly what a resolve is this thing is a true ripper in my mind and I've actually said it on video I love this thing
If you remove the upper shock screw and inside tie rod/turnbuckle screw the arm will drop down to remove the screw holding the anti sway bar hold down on the arm. You'll need a small diameter hex handle as it will need to be under the chassis for a straight alignment on that screw but it works no problem. Thanks for your time doing the video, new wrenchers should appreciate this.👍
I put a threaded bolt into it wrapped it in in gorilla tape and super glue and it still works fine I had the exact same problem with the dig cup on mine
Man my ocd is driving me nuts!! The first thing I do is take a tooth brush or something and clean the parts I’m trying to fix 😬 and you just keep going at it all dirty. But nonetheless you rock keep kicking ass!! 👍
It looks like that turnbuckle got chunked when the pin was coming out, and that's what deformed the cup, not heat. Although the motor was really 🥵🥵. Hopefully you were able to just replace the bearing in that!! I thought the truck was doing mint at Diamond Dust. I liked the intro where you were running it at all the different places!! Great video Guy!! 💯💯😉
hopefully you can fix that motor!!! my traxxas to wheel drive drive shafts kept popping out of the joint so what I did is I put electrical tape around it but each time I wind around electrical tape I put super glue on it and oh my gosh it made it so much stronger so maybe add a little bit of superglue you probably don't wanna do it because if you had to take it apart again then it's gonna be really hard because it's gonna get really hard when you put superglue on it it's gonna be like plastic
I really do wish they went to a dog one end and cvd style driveshaft and drive cups like they did with the 1/8 trucks, but this is smoother power delivery
Thank you for sharing this info Guy. I have an Arrma Outcast 4S Version 1. Every other Arrma Truck i had never given me problems as much as this Truck. I'm Always blowing out the Shafts on mines. And i see they haven't fixed this Problem on the New Version 2 either...Plastic diff Cups..really?? Common Arrma!!! These look just like the Diff Cups in my Arrma Granite Voltage 2wd, But at least i get through 4 or 5 Packs of Batteries before the Diff Cups blow out. and that's on 2S Lipo.
@@wadkins4152 if you've watched this may be just an issue concerning what I've done 8K pack not giving it any rest with the trigger 100 c power rating but this is just the way I do things I felt if anything this is going to be an abusive test. I have more than just this one video if you haven't seen the others. Meaning other individuals also have this truck you should go watch their videos because for some strange reason they don't seem to be having any overheating issue and it appears as though the trigger is being buried like mine but who knows it could be editing
@@wadkins4152 oh and the secondary thought if I had the pony up the cash for this I definitely would and I wouldn't be complaining except about the stupid axle but that's seemingly going to be rectified in a couple days
You can't beat that price for a outcast 6s . I have few swb arrmas only one outcast with no original wheels left. If you consider wear tear cost . Like buying a new real car when all new takes while to wear but once worn your chasing your tale and never drives the same again . Kratons I'm on my 4th one I think and only two left one brand new on the shelf lol , and other one needs 2 diffs wheels bumpers other parts I robbed so say 200$ 250$ I paid 350 for the new one and nothing like new .
The more I think about it the more I'm feeling stupid for pre ordering this thing. I hate my typhon 3s, why would I do this to myself again. This thing broke waaaaay too easily.
Hey, great video which helped me out a lot. Is there any need to use some ant seize compound when putting that red 17mm hex bit back onto the hub? When taking it off I noticed there was some white gunk on there??? any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
@@midwestern_rc haha I had a rock get stuck between the cvd and turnbuckle which caused the metal clip to open and the pin to get yeeted. Really bad design imo.
I killed 2 on one of mine already bought the upgraded version 8 of them 🤯🤬 would be nice if Arrma sent out that updated part to everyone. Other then that it’s a little beast
I think arrma is trying to fix the issues 🤔 when they ship out because somebody said something about that and they said they will fix the problem maybe I'm not sure thanks for update and stay safe keep on rcing ✌️
One important questions 4s Sway Bar ... Can we install it to the 3S... Take the full prats the arms The skipped plate can you do a video on that please
Plz can you do a video about the Sway bar plz no one have ever done that or explain about it can you put the 4s Sway Bar kit on the 3s line ??? Please send me a video of it no one have done that but I have seen people who's putting pictures they have upgraded the 3S line sway bar...
I really do not like that style pin retainer split ring, It looks like the band got partially separate by a stone perhaps and spun enough to let the pin out a bit, which caused the hole to become deformed being jammed back and forth before it got loose enough to fall out. A piece of shrink tube is a pretty good idea, You can get all sizes of shrink tube, even a strip of racers tape would be better than nothing ... I guess I should have kept watching before commenting... I see what you did .. lol
go easy on the SHhmeear lol.. gotta be careful not to get it on the mating surfaces of the case so it doesnt cause a hydraulic issue where it keeps the screws from tighening properly, could cause them to come loose easier.. just my 2 cents on the Smear :)
If those are powdered metal gears… then they are sintered gears. You mentioned at this price point you wouldn’t get sintered gears, only these powder ones… 😜. I’m pretty sure you know what you’re talking about. It’s the hardened metal gears we’ll need to spring for! And yes the axles have to come off to open the diffs. Held on by a 2.0 mill screw in the centre of the axle stub…. Great work non the less!
I knew someone was going to call me out on that but if you go to the description that's the first sentence line that I put that I know that these are sintered I meant to say CNC 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂 but you know what that means you were paying attention and that in itself is pretty stinking awesome 👍💯👊
@@rcguygarage 🤦🏻♂️ That’s the worst!!! When someone doesn’t read the description. So sorry for that. Like I did add … I felt you knew what you’re talking about! Keep smiling bro!!!
Guy you have me rolling because when I was editing it I was trying to figure out how can I take center gear out of there and stuff in CNC through voice over and I was going to do like the demon voice but I just said forget it 🤣😂🤣😂
Anyone telling you not to take it to that place, is like telling Kev not to take his RC's to the skate park. Clearly if people didn't push the limit's of these RC's, then we wouldn't know their weaknesses, and wouldn't be able to take preventative measures.
I didnt go for it the sledge , I did buy the v2 max , I really just wanted this truck to go with my other outcast. I basically drove it into the ground , in fairness that truckprobably longer lasting but sucks as performance and driving and maintenance.
The sledge uses a spring to retain pin on front cvd axle much better then that ring in my opinion… nice CSI teardown to find these issues 👍👍👍 hopefully that electrical tape holds and good luck with the motor…
@@rcguygarage seeing your video is really making it tough to choose this brand. Diamond dust or whatever you call it. Shouldn't have torn the car up that way.
@@jasonwilliams74 preproduction issues I'm hearing. I'm not pushing you to buy it I'm not going to push anybody to buy anything but I do know when something's good and keep in mind I've had this thing for a little while and I've had a ton of packs through it so I know how this thing acts reacts yeah
@@rcguygarage splines for a cvd joint i didn't see any...im saying a pin with a grub screw head instead of a band that holds the pin in...Im very skeptical of it when I see those designs like hex extensions for like 5th scale they have a rubber band holding the pin i don't understand that 😅
To get it to basher status. That would cost you a couple of grand, granted it would be well put together . I actually thought about doing this very thing. Instead of buying one of these. But that is a lot of money to sacrifice. BUT the damn thing would be unstoppable.
@@rcguygarage Race kits cost about 600-800 but they are well worth the price, also you can find nice used ones on places like FB marketplace, and Ebay for 250-400. Then whatever electronics you want to use. Some of the benefits are, aluminum hinge pins, aluminum drive axles, 7075 chassis, and shock towers. I don't bash my cars anymore, but race every weekend. All the plastic on that big truck is just asking for trouble. Good luck! Also all 1/8 race cars use a grub screw in the center of the axle, instead of an aluminum band.
I'm not sure if you're new to the channel but I used to race but that was quite some time ago back in 1990 I had the fastest RC around jrx pro radar at 56.2 mph and that was fast back then 🤣😂 so many different kits out there so many different electronics it definitely makes it tough when it comes to stuff like that I'd rather put that towards RR quarter mile and just keep this hobby as that just a hobby. I definitely get your drift.
the min you open the motor they say its warranty VOID or they would here in Australia this Wide Brown Land Of OZ any which way they can screw you they will and do loved the video its a shame that you cant buy a decent car to bash for not even being able to ONE FRiKKEN Pack through it Come on AARMA get your %$#@# together
to be fair.. it's after an RC GUY GARAGE run. can you HONESTLY tell us you haven't had to put one on the bench after you run it? next time - let the kid drive it! =oP
Oh it's funny because that's exactly what I did do I did let my kid drive it as well as another RC that I have that is brand new then no one has seen on the channel yet 🤣😂 they're definitely are a select few that have made it beyond one pack and that's just luck of the draw 👍💯👊 but that is what I call the spice of life and if you're not laughing or having fun out there ripping something other than a chocolate cake or a bag of chips unless that's what you're into then that's all you need in life that and a good partner and good children if you want any or have any 🤣😂🤣😂
I certainly hope you didn't waste your time watching it geez guy now that would be a lot of free time and yes my time is free to me and my God might not be the same one as yours 👹
Same happened to mine in less then 24hrs, came to conclude that it was caused by gravel getting stuck I between the axel and A arm
This exact thing happened to my outcast 4s v2 just 3 rides in @ 2 days old..I was able to pick up a set of 4 and file down the plastic so the new clip set flush. Hopefully they come out with a fix.
I did the exact same thing on the same side. This helped a lot
I see RCDriver_Online also lost an out drive pin on his Kraton, he said Arrma is aware of the problem and they have fixed it on the production trucks.
Yes you are correct they have said they are aware. It'll be good to see if they fix this before the release , that would be VERY WISE. But wouldn't you agree it's a little odd that I didn't receive an envelope after receiving the box with the repaired upgraded part so that I wouldn't experience the issue that I'm experiencing? 😳🤔😜
@@rcguygarage That's one reason I never buy a new release.
@@rcguygarage I don't get why they didn't let you test it before showing it to us . They did that with the FT , do they really have time to change production at that point. Bro you ran that thing to long , no rc in the world would take that . It's same Kevin. Smashing on concrete till breaks . You mechanic and git for free you are a pisser
@@paulclancy2404 not pisser it's "you're PISSAH" come on guy get with the program 👍💯
@@dutch1800 hopefully people understand that from the automotive industry as you're never supposed to buy the first year vehicle😂🤣 I will tell you though if I had to pony up the cash for this I would have to learning the couple of minor issues that it has and possibly what a resolve is this thing is a true ripper in my mind and I've actually said it on video I love this thing
I'm not even 3/4 through and I gotta give it up on the investigative work you've done. Great work!
@@lilzeus-rc5410 WOW 2 year old comment and I'M JUST SEEING IT TODAY😂🤣😂🤣
If you remove the upper shock screw and inside tie rod/turnbuckle screw the arm will drop down to remove the screw holding the anti sway bar hold down on the arm. You'll need a small diameter hex handle as it will need to be under the chassis for a straight alignment on that screw but it works no problem. Thanks for your time doing the video, new wrenchers should appreciate this.👍
I put a threaded bolt into it wrapped it in in gorilla tape and super glue and it still works fine I had the exact same problem with the dig cup on mine
sweet wrenching video learn something new everyday keep rippin guy!!
I agree saw that band and realized that the cetrifical forces pulled it open causing it to loosen the pin.
There's obviously more going on to cause it to happen because it's not just only the centrifugal force as the sole offender
Good wrenching. That diamond dust is an rc killer . Duperbash did not even killed his🤣🤣🤣
Yeah I've watched his videos he's a good guy and very skilled he doesn't seem to break many things . . . . on camera
@@rcguygarage plus Rich didn't run his in the dirt and he put a slot in the chassis to let dirt out of the power module.
@@TheflyingkiwiRC yes smart guy well versed in RC stuff for sure with good control of the RC👍💯
Man my ocd is driving me nuts!! The first thing I do is take a tooth brush or something and clean the parts I’m trying to fix 😬 and you just keep going at it all dirty. But nonetheless you rock keep kicking ass!! 👍
The same thing happened to my kraton 4s within ten minutes of being brand new. My right rear band diff side, broke!
My outcast 4s v2 also had this pop off the right rear 3 rides in, trending? Fortunatly my hobby shop had the part in stock thx Nor-cal Hobbies!
Use the end of a drill bit the same size for the pin
Yes I have no more left to use😂🤣
@@rcguygarage haha brilliant. You will have to get some drill blanks on order. Love the videos watching here in the UK.
It looks like that turnbuckle got chunked when the pin was coming out, and that's what deformed the cup, not heat. Although the motor was really 🥵🥵. Hopefully you were able to just replace the bearing in that!! I thought the truck was doing mint at Diamond Dust. I liked the intro where you were running it at all the different places!! Great video Guy!! 💯💯😉
hopefully you can fix that motor!!! my traxxas to wheel drive drive shafts kept popping out of the joint so what I did is I put electrical tape around it but each time I wind around electrical tape I put super glue on it and oh my gosh it made it so much stronger so maybe add a little bit of superglue you probably don't wanna do it because if you had to take it apart again then it's gonna be really hard because it's gonna get really hard when you put superglue on it it's gonna be like plastic
I really do wish they went to a dog one end and cvd style driveshaft and drive cups like they did with the 1/8 trucks, but this is smoother power delivery
YES EXACTLY that part can be made in the aftermarket for sure
Same crap I suffered from the 3s Big Rock V1 line.
Plastic driveshafts oughta be discontinued.
Thank you for sharing this info Guy. I have an Arrma Outcast 4S Version 1. Every other Arrma Truck i had never given me problems as much as this Truck. I'm Always blowing out the Shafts on mines. And i see they haven't fixed this Problem on the New Version 2 either...Plastic diff Cups..really?? Common Arrma!!! These look just like the Diff Cups in my Arrma Granite Voltage 2wd, But at least i get through 4 or 5 Packs of Batteries before the Diff Cups blow out. and that's on 2S Lipo.
Arrma has said that this is a preproduction issue and they have since revised and fixed the issue for in stock units sold to the general public.
@@rcguygarage Are they also going to fix the overheating issue? Thanks
@@wadkins4152 if you've watched this may be just an issue concerning what I've done 8K pack not giving it any rest with the trigger 100 c power rating but this is just the way I do things I felt if anything this is going to be an abusive test. I have more than just this one video if you haven't seen the others. Meaning other individuals also have this truck you should go watch their videos because for some strange reason they don't seem to be having any overheating issue and it appears as though the trigger is being buried like mine but who knows it could be editing
@@wadkins4152 oh and the secondary thought if I had the pony up the cash for this I definitely would and I wouldn't be complaining except about the stupid axle but that's seemingly going to be rectified in a couple days
@@rcguygarage Thank you Sir!
Mine is doing the exact same thing with the the rear diff
I hear arrma is fixing the pin issue and knows about it. I went a head and picked up the 6s outcast on sale and pre paid for the new outcast lol
Yes they say they are aware and have revised the unit. Time will tell if it's fixed. 👍💯
@@rcguygarage I hope so.
Either way there's a fix. I have an 💡
You can't beat that price for a outcast 6s . I have few swb arrmas only one outcast with no original wheels left. If you consider wear tear cost . Like buying a new real car when all new takes while to wear but once worn your chasing your tale and never drives the same again . Kratons I'm on my 4th one I think and only two left one brand new on the shelf lol , and other one needs 2 diffs wheels bumpers other parts I robbed so say 200$ 250$ I paid 350 for the new one and nothing like new .
What fix did arrma do? I haven't found anything better other than cups out of the uk
The more I think about it the more I'm feeling stupid for pre ordering this thing. I hate my typhon 3s, why would I do this to myself again. This thing broke waaaaay too easily.
GUY I have to say I love those ovonic rebel 3s packs, I run both the 6500mah and the 5200mah you have, I run 2 in series in my CEN reeper for 6s
Hey, great video which helped me out a lot. Is there any need to use some ant seize compound when putting that red 17mm hex bit back onto the hub? When taking it off I noticed there was some white gunk on there??? any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
Looking forward to your vendetta. I really like mine and they don't get enough attention.
That type of joint would normally have about three sprung coils around it.
I would tell horizon about it and see if they can send you replacements for the link end and maybe the cups, since it's first drive
🤫Arrma already contacted me😳😜😂🤣
Have you seen any issues with the motor mount like the previous armas mounted on that warping
That's coming up in a video soon in the timeline
I wish I had a spot like diamond dust id bring my rigs there everyday
You WANT to DESTROY EVERY RC that you own????? YOU CRAZY
@@rcguygarage i wanna test every rc i own 😆 and then improve it to conquer the diamond dust labyrinth
The pin is the same like the wheelhex pin from the old nero models
Wow that's huge
I wonder if this is why the release date went from the 7th when I pre ordered to the 22nd a couple days later.
We can only hope that Arrma in on top of it with fixing the issue prior to release. That's what they have communicated👍💯
@@rcguygarage Fingers crossed!
I got mine 2 weeks ago. Just Grenaded the CVD lmao
@@midwestern_rc haha I had a rock get stuck between the cvd and turnbuckle which caused the metal clip to open and the pin to get yeeted. Really bad design imo.
I killed 2 on one of mine already bought the upgraded version 8 of them 🤯🤬 would be nice if Arrma sent out that updated part to everyone. Other then that it’s a little beast
I think arrma is trying to fix the issues 🤔 when they ship out because somebody said something about that and they said they will fix the problem maybe I'm not sure thanks for update and stay safe keep on rcing ✌️
They said they are aware of the issue and are squaring it away before units go out
Dam the motor too jees
Does v2.5 have better shafts
Excuse me sir can you put the link where did you buy the screwdrivers because it's really long it's easy to work with Arrma
One important questions 4s Sway Bar ... Can we install it to the 3S... Take the full prats the arms The skipped plate can you do a video on that please
Hey brother happy Fourth 🎊🎉 of July 🇺🇸 🎆🎇
🧨💥 to you as well
Plz can you do a video about the Sway bar plz no one have ever done that or explain about it can you put the 4s Sway Bar kit on the 3s line ??? Please send me a video of it no one have done that but I have seen people who's putting pictures they have upgraded the 3S line sway bar...
I really do not like that style pin retainer split ring, It looks like the band got partially separate by a stone perhaps and spun enough to let the pin out a bit, which caused the hole to become deformed being jammed back and forth before it got loose enough to fall out. A piece of shrink tube is a pretty good idea, You can get all sizes of shrink tube, even a strip of racers tape would be better than nothing ... I guess I should have kept watching before commenting... I see what you did .. lol
Guy I do the same thing🤣😂
4mm drill bit maybe
go easy on the SHhmeear lol.. gotta be careful not to get it on the mating surfaces of the case so it doesnt cause a hydraulic issue where it keeps the screws from tighening properly, could cause them to come loose easier.. just my 2 cents on the Smear :)
If those are powdered metal gears… then they are sintered gears. You mentioned at this price point you wouldn’t get sintered gears, only these powder ones… 😜. I’m pretty sure you know what you’re talking about. It’s the hardened metal gears we’ll need to spring for! And yes the axles have to come off to open the diffs. Held on by a 2.0 mill screw in the centre of the axle stub…. Great work non the less!
I knew someone was going to call me out on that but if you go to the description that's the first sentence line that I put that I know that these are sintered I meant to say CNC 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂 but you know what that means you were paying attention and that in itself is pretty stinking awesome 👍💯👊
@@rcguygarage 🤦🏻♂️ That’s the worst!!! When someone doesn’t read the description. So sorry for that. Like I did add … I felt you knew what you’re talking about! Keep smiling bro!!!
Guy you have me rolling because when I was editing it I was trying to figure out how can I take center gear out of there and stuff in CNC through voice over and I was going to do like the demon voice but I just said forget it 🤣😂🤣😂
@@rcguygarage 👹
Anyone telling you not to take it to that place, is like telling Kev not to take his RC's to the skate park. Clearly if people didn't push the limit's of these RC's, then we wouldn't know their weaknesses, and wouldn't be able to take preventative measures.
All they doing 17% bigger , the Traxxas sledge . Making hard bashing ,sending easier or more able by less experienced drivers .
Yes but for some an $800 plus pill is awful big to swallow when your budget is $500
I didnt go for it the sledge , I did buy the v2 max , I really just wanted this truck to go with my other outcast. I basically drove it into the ground , in fairness that truckprobably longer lasting but sucks as performance and driving and maintenance.
The sledge uses a spring to retain pin on front cvd axle much better then that ring in my opinion… nice CSI teardown to find these issues 👍👍👍 hopefully that electrical tape holds and good luck with the motor…
Rc driver said it won't be like that on the production models
@@Nathan-qt2zi ohhh ok cool I’ll look out for the vid 👍👍👍
Ocd moment. Where is the magnetic tray you got for your screws??? Hmmmmmm I’ll wait for the answer. Lol
Ummm it's ummm yeah it's over there
Lol
What a pain in the ass. I definitely will not be getting one of these
It's funny cause I have the opposite opinion than you. 😜
I mean all that work on a brand new rig and not even a full pack ran through it. Nah! Lol
@@rcguygarage seeing your video is really making it tough to choose this brand. Diamond dust or whatever you call it. Shouldn't have torn the car up that way.
@@jasonwilliams74 preproduction issues I'm hearing. I'm not pushing you to buy it I'm not going to push anybody to buy anything but I do know when something's good and keep in mind I've had this thing for a little while and I've had a ton of packs through it so I know how this thing acts reacts yeah
@@LameduckArmyOF1 well that's the point I guess to use it on different terrain and push it's limits to see if it survives 👍💯
I think should have used a pin in the axle like traxxas does instead of the band 🤔
That would have required a rework of the differential splines
I think they did this to avoid people using red loctite or stripping threads in the cups
@@restinpiecesrc5528 cups are composite plastic
@@rcguygarage splines for a cvd joint i didn't see any...im saying a pin with a grub screw head instead of a band that holds the pin in...Im very skeptical of it when I see those designs like hex extensions for like 5th scale they have a rubber band holding the pin i don't understand that 😅
@@rcguygarage yeah, maybe they should upgrade to metal for heat Resistance, but then again, what caused the scarring would also concern me
My Dad always told me .......
If you treat them bad they won't give you good service .
Visa Versa works the same with people and things
You need a Race class truggy, and you wouldn't have these issues. Too much plastic for the size of that truck.
How much "all in" for the Race Class Truggy your taking about? 👍💯
To get it to basher status. That would cost you a couple of grand, granted it would be well put together . I actually thought about doing this very thing. Instead of buying one of these. But that is a lot of money to sacrifice. BUT the damn thing would be unstoppable.
@@rcguygarage man a basher level race truggy with mods would be a couple grand minus electrics.
@@rcguygarage Race kits cost about 600-800 but they are well worth the price, also you can find nice used ones on places like FB marketplace, and Ebay for 250-400. Then whatever electronics you want to use. Some of the benefits are, aluminum hinge pins, aluminum drive axles, 7075 chassis, and shock towers. I don't bash my cars anymore, but race every weekend. All the plastic on that big truck is just asking for trouble. Good luck! Also all 1/8 race cars use a grub screw in the center of the axle, instead of an aluminum band.
I'm not sure if you're new to the channel but I used to race but that was quite some time ago back in 1990 I had the fastest RC around jrx pro radar at 56.2 mph and that was fast back then 🤣😂 so many different kits out there so many different electronics it definitely makes it tough when it comes to stuff like that I'd rather put that towards RR quarter mile and just keep this hobby as that just a hobby. I definitely get your drift.
Metal case needs shimming by experience
You skipped how to take off the inside axel
Horizon is probably thinking how in the hell did this female get one of are new rc!
Are you the female that's asking 😂🤣
the min you open the motor they say its warranty VOID or they would here in Australia this Wide Brown Land Of OZ any which way they can screw you they will and do loved the video its a shame that you cant buy a decent car to bash for not even being able to ONE FRiKKEN Pack through it Come on AARMA get your %$#@# together
🤙🏾
👍😵
Tape it lol
Lmao looks so clean🤣🤣
to be fair.. it's after an RC GUY GARAGE run. can you HONESTLY tell us you haven't had to put one on the bench after you run it? next time - let the kid drive it! =oP
Oh it's funny because that's exactly what I did do I did let my kid drive it as well as another RC that I have that is brand new then no one has seen on the channel yet 🤣😂 they're definitely are a select few that have made it beyond one pack and that's just luck of the draw 👍💯👊 but that is what I call the spice of life and if you're not laughing or having fun out there ripping something other than a chocolate cake or a bag of chips unless that's what you're into then that's all you need in life that and a good partner and good children if you want any or have any 🤣😂🤣😂
@@rcguygarage oh my gosh we should be some RC commentators. haha
Im not buying a god damn thing!!!!
Unless you spelling stuff with a "ah" instead of "ar" 🤣🤣
Blah blah blah 45 minute video! Jees! I think you might have to much free time guy! God himself could give you a rc and you wouldn't be happy!
I certainly hope you didn't waste your time watching it geez guy now that would be a lot of free time and yes my time is free to me and my God might not be the same one as yours 👹
Glad I didn't buy one of those.