Stop Stringing when 3d printing! How to reduce or solve stringing on a 3d printer -cura or otherwise
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- I can find you ten videos each with a different way to stop stringing. But what if there was one video that gives you....uh...lots..of ways to stop stringing?
May I present to you the most complicated "stop stringing" video you've probably ever seen!
Addendum and errors:
- If there are any I will post them here.
Please comment if you have anything to say!
Links (I do not receive any commission from these):
sunlu filament dryer thingy (I paid under £40 so wait for the right price!) : www.amazon.co.uk/Filament-Sto...
Chapters:
0:00 - intro
0:16 - mission brief
0:54 - explaining the flowcharts
1:19 - you are here. yes. you
1:24 - TOP LEVEL CHART
1:29 - FILAMENT ISSUES
1:35 - Wet Filament
2:32 - Temperature
3:01 - TPU
3:25 - TPU and Retraction
3:40 - Cheap Filaments
4:12 - SLICER ISSUES
5:01 - Retraction
6:01 - Cooling
6:19 - Combing and Coasting
7:45 - HARDWARE
7:57 - Worn Nozzle
8:26 - Blocked / Partially Blocked Nozzle
9:22 - Cooling
9:47 - Slipping Extruder
10:17 - Loose PTFE lines
10:43 - MODEL
10:48 - Orientation
11:18 - Splitting Models Up / Apart
11:38 - Wrap up - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Maybe this is obvious but I experienced severe stringing when going from 0.2 mm to 0.12 layer height. If you have the same problem one solution could be to drop your hotend temperature (10 C worked for me). With 0.12 mm the printer is extruding the filament more slowly and therefore it will get hotter than using 0.2 mm. This might also help when you are printing very slowly and have stringing.
That does make sense, and no it's not obvious until you think about it, good tip, I've been working on printing miniatures and this could be useful 👍
It's incredibly annoying that temp is part of the filament settings but not the print profile
@@LostInTech3D what do i do when my prints are coming out bubly and stringing alot
Your approach to printing issues is very informative! Please keep videos flowing!!
BLESS your SOUL for this vid, and the clearly laid-out chapters. The blocked nozzle section is exactly my issue, and even though I've already guessed this was the problem, it's nice to see the validation
Thank you very much! Other "big" channel mostly talk about retraction settings and that didn't work for me. But you explained very well about many others cause and it enlighten me to do something. Thanks again 🙏
Thanks fot the effort of making your video not only informative but also entertaining
i love your videos and they are thorough. I have to literally make sure I have time to take notes and pay attention but they are very useful. Thanks!
This is very informative and helpful as I do have a lot of strings with my prints.
Another thing that can cause extruder slipping is if the hot end is too close to the cold end. That is, if the heater block is too far up the threads. This can cause a lot of heat to migrate upwards and warm the filament enough to make it soften a little bit when a print is paused.
The methodical nature of this video makes it one of the best on this subject I have seen so far. Smiley face.
thanks! I should do more of these for other topics, I always meant to
Wow! This was awesome for a novice! Thank you so much. Subbed
Why does this video only have 70 likes.. U compiled the whole interenet here :) Thank you
Haha I can't disagree with that
Outstanding work my friend thank you so very much
Great video thanks for your tips and efforts
This one is definitely going in my troubleshooting category.
Helpful and well organized. Thanks so much
Great video, useful tips
love the hobby, and it is very much a hobby but i look forward to the day when all these lil issues are ironed out and we dont have to constantly fiddle.
I recently experienced the issue noted at 9:09, I have an ender 3 v2 neo and I printed petg for the first time which meant I raised the print temp from a cool 200 for pla to 230. When I went back to pla I suddenly had tons of strings and the models would show signs of under extrusion at random intervals on the layer. After trying to clear the blockage several times only to continue seeing issues I removed the bowden tube and found a 1mm tear that had developed at the end of the tube. After cutting the tube end everything was fine. I have since upgraded to a capricorn ptfe bowden. But so much headache from such a small problem 😂.
ive noticed definitely the different types of PLA i use have had different stringing issues. This shiny green silk i have is sooo notorious for stringing even at a lower temp. While i have a black matte that doesnt string but tends to clog more easily. Its very frustrating but trial and error seem to be the best way to solve these sorts of problems for me.
yeah...the variation between them can be huge, luckily I've not seen anything that drastic recently...well actually with the exception of some glow in the dark that is just...well...Ill be talking about it in a video. But yeah not a lot you can do about that.
Awesome tip for the bowden tube attachment to the extruder: set the bowden tube up where you want it to be, how far past the fitting it sticks into the extruder. Then unscrew the fitting, and the heat the ptfe tube that sticks out past the fitting with a lighter, and stick an awl into the tube, so that it expands the tube. That'll prevent it from ever slipping on you again. Don't be shy when heating it, but don't overdo it. Maybe a good idea to practice on some leftover tube.
Do you happen to have a video example of this? I’m struggling to envision how to do this 😭
I think u'r saving me, for two weeks I'm trying to dail in my printer and I have suvier stringing and holes in model, Iicke huge holes near zseam and sometimes even half of layer missing..... I'm using heavely modified ender 3. I need to change nozzle I think after your video... How is it only 500lickes after 17k views, there is literally more than couple of hours of googling compressed... Or even if not on ender, i do have Anet A8 that does make wierd stuff witch prints, that you showed here as wrong pressure, and it might be it... Thank u so much ♥️
Btw thought about linear advance calibration because I recently calibrated e-stops and I have no idea of it's even possible because my motherboard does have locked bootloader and I have marlin 1.0.1
I'm trying to print one of those print-in-place telescoping sword models and my parts are sticking to each other because of stringing.
This video helped me figure it out some. I completely forgot about temperature.
Very thorough. I had a stringing issue and the only thing which worked was to use a dehydrator. A good video would be to cover that and maybe quantify how we can tell if its dry enough. I don't really want to run my oven for 4hrs for filament.
Ohhh I kinda did that already 😉👍
Came across your excellent video after struggling with stringing issues for weeks, I am relatively new to 3d printing. I really need some expert one to one assistance to help me with my Ender 3 v2
Hope it helped out. Stick with it, there's a lot to learn at first but it gets a lot easier if you get a good grip of the basics and keep questioning everything 👍
Thanks alot for a good topic!
I have done everything and i can't print TPU without massiv stringing!
The funny thing was that my original bowden setup on my CR6-SE made perfect prints(No stringing at all) in TPU as long as the filament didn't escaped the extruder which happen to often!
I then decided to purchase a Bontech LGX lite with a mosquito hotend and now the trouble begins with no end in sight!
I have tried everything i can come up with!
E-step is calibrated
Flow is calibrated
I have runned i think 10 different temp tower tests
Retraction tests is useless as no settings change the stringing
I have mounted and dismounted and mounted again to check if i did something wrong but no.
Filament is dried even when it was new i dried it for 4 hours with no change.
Is it the hotend which suck this bad with TPU ? Had no issue before and im blaming the hotend i think
I'm trying to print that small pikachu, so as soon I saw the preview of your video I immediatwely clicked on it!! 🙂
I have stringing...a lot of stringing, but on double pyramid test too.
No matter retraction settings or a new filament. Nooze seems fine.
The main stuff I'm seeing is that PLA is oozing too much and I can print even PLA+ at 180° with strings. It's like I set a temperature but my nozzle is actually hotter than expected... 😞
I don't think I have a blocked nozzle 'cause walls are really nice and no signs of underextrusion: just a very fluid filament
Always stoked for another great video, thanks! - commenting for the algooooo
appreciated! 👍
Meshmixer has an option to keep both halves in a plane cut, you can then turn off one of the objects (one of the halves) by clicking the eye and export it so you'll have one half in one file, then do the same for the other half.
good job man.
Thank you!
I would recommend the Micro Swiss direct drive upgrade. It just makes those injection problems negligible. Retraction distance is tiny compared to Bowden tubes, so stringing is easily to adjust.
Well i have massiv issues with DD compare to my older bowden setup!
I'd be interested In the effects of cooling / designs.can you have to much cooling? Obviously it effects adhesion but what happens after that point?
I've missed the music ;)
For me it seems to be mostly filament manufacturer (nearly never had stringing with Monofilament but I do with Plexiwire) and when I had esteps way low, there was also unusual amount of stringing.
Also having TPU video in the end screen and description would have helped ;)
The music will be back 🎵🎵
Hello, I can't find your video about the adjustment screw on the extruder that you mentioned.
I wonder to what degree it would be possible to develop a wider array of test prints designed to elicit specific failures more unambiguously.
As the video says: Try temperature tower as they use fairly little material
I think that using a nozzle larger than 0.4, 0.6 for example may increase stringing.
Even printing at 0.2 layer height with a 0.4 and a 0.6 nozzles is different. As the 0.6 prints faster I increase the temperature from 200ºC to 207ºC, but I still have some extrusion
It absolutely does! Surface tension is to blame, I think.
Travel speed and acceleration is something to take into account as well as Z hop
Friction in the PTFE tube can cause stringing as well as lead to under extrusion as well. I only discovered this after two weeks of head scratching and accounting for every variable possible.
Over extrusion can cause stringing as well, so making sure extruder E steps are calibrated correctly and that flow rate is correct is very important.
you should make an extension that adds functions to fix stringing and other problems. post the problem and get the menu with the relevant settings. problem solving menu
and make an extension that predicts any problems will result in what one has computed in cura. then we can see that stringing is going to happen before printing and have suggestions to fix the problems. or have ai or something fix the problems. change a setting, compute again, fix problem and present the result again and again til no problems appear or no setting will fix the problem and the user has to decide or make input. or change print orientation etc.
make it encompass all teh problems. like jiggy walls etc. you know. those problems listed on that site that has the corresponding fixes. use that as a guide lemme know when you have made it. or someone else has made it. you can use chat gpt to write the code for it. just be meticulous in your descriptions of what the software should do and you should be fine.
Tengo un problema con mi Ender 3v2. Imprime desfasado. Sabes que podría ser?
suggestions on programs to chop models into pieces to elimate print issues?
I think you can use meshmixer for this
There is a first layer test file to download to test stringing, it's just bottom layers but, it's 100% guarantee it will string if you have this fault.
Descant, won't technically remove moisture already absorbed by filament. It will reduce the addition of an more ambient moisture. Heat is the only real way to expel already absorbed moisture.
Not true.
What about a loose nozzle. I have had several instances where I had stringing because my nozzle wasn't tight 😅
I changed the .4 nozzle to a .6mm on my ender 3 s1 and it started stringing like crazy. Otherwise it's all good and nice looking, faster, etc.
For this video to be perfect, the only thing that is left is Linear Advance.
can you please share some of your profiles especially the fast ones and print in place
I can, some are already shared on the website, link in about page or whatever
@@LostInTech3D awesome thank you I'll check it out btw you made printing with tpu just about bearable lmao 😂
For splitting models just use 3d builder its way easier than meshmixer meshmixer is a bit much for chopping up models imo 3d builder is much simpler cleaner and worlds easier to understand for newbies
What do I do if I get no stringing on the little towers test, but strings like hell when I do a AIO Printer test on the two bent towers
well...I've never really had much to do with that test piece, so I don't know how much it represents real world printing. If they're thin pieces then it may prevent cura's combing and the weird inner wall wiping it does from working - which will absolutely cause strings.
Otherwise, same rules apply. It's not unusual to have to change settings for a specific piece, if it's being awkward.
You’re a fuckin legend for my ADHD decision-anxiety ass. THNKA YOU
Great video, however tried all of this and still get stringing, next!
E step?
can't your share cura profile for ender 3v2?
I can. I've already shared TPU profiles on lostintech.co.uk and will be adding pla profiles when I have time 👍 go to the printer profiles section.
@@LostInTech3D thanks for the TPU profiles, please remember to share the PLA ones when you have time.
I noticed following behavior in Slic3r: Prints line -->wipes -->RETRACTS?!?! -->hops in Z and prints next colum.
WFT of course this will cause stringing. It should Print -->retract-->wipe and then move over
Unfortunately I seem to not be able to find out how to change this behavior.
I'm afraid I never used slic3r, it's not exactly under active dev
@@LostInTech3D I am using Prusa Slicer, sorry it is still under heavy dev.
I just can´t change the retraction sequence !
I want it to move the nozzle inside the part, retract, THEN wipe and move to the next part of the print.
What it does on default is wipe THEN retract (which causes the blob as well) and then move, in my opinion wipe should always come as the last step.
Why did you say slic3r then 👀🤣
We might be able to solve it on discord if you want to ask there, I'm kinda more of a cura guy but we have a lot of ps/ss people
@@LostInTech3D I am not on Discord sorry.
I ll try to tweak my settings further, up retraction distance and speed and play with the settings a little. Might be a bug as well, or print temp is too high (don´t want to changed that thou because I get good layer bonding with PETG).
Nice video , but I'm still stringing;0
Can't win them all! 😉 I assume you know that you can use a blowtorch on the strings? (I forgot to mention that!)
@@LostInTech3D blow torch??? Maybe you meant heat gun
heat gun, or blow torch, you know like the ones you use for cooking :)
@@LostInTech3D Trying to put out a forest fire with a cup of water.
If you're using PETG, that shit gets wet if you leave it in the open for too long. Lots of PLA just comes down to heat and retraction.
Retraction acceleration can cause problems.
Set retraction off and you have 95% faulty print jobs when printing complex objects.
Sincerely
Prusa MK3S+
My prints are getting zits when printing inside walls and outside walls because the printer stops at the end of each pass
try turning off power recovery or putting a better/new/faster SD card in, this is the power loss recovery and a known issue on most printers
@@LostInTech3D I did both of those already I
The Eolas snapping is fine, that's inherent to the brittleness, it bent before snapping, i had PLA that snapped on it's own on the roll, no interaction necessary, snaps like dry spaghetti, no bend whatsoever
I've had it snap in the bowden tube :(
Also I've had it snap between reel and extruder a few times which is really confusing.
@@LostInTech3D inside the bowden usually is fine as long as you aren't changing filaments or have a clog and need to pull haha
Silk filaments do this often, the shiny stuff makes it brittle, i had perfect prints, 20 minutes after the filament stopped feeding, it snapped just from the stress between Reel and extruder in midair.
I still haven't seen any other filament type in silk, petg or abs, i make car parts, so PLA is nothing for me more than cheap bulk that usually clogs because all metal heatbreak and enclosure lol
Image: A model of a low-poly squirrel completely covered in strings and blobs. Question: "Hey guys why is this stringing" Answer: "Idiot."
But all this dont helped me :( the quality is very good but the stringing is much...
It must be something, I don't know any other reasons!