No kidding LOL. My favorite is when you're holding something together and you need to mark it, and your pencil is 9' away from you🤣. Then you have to drag your project and yourself across the floor trying to get to the stupid pencil before you ruin your perfect fit. 🤪
My tip that I don't really see people do: I think one of the best things you can do is get a whiteboard/dry erase board in your shop. Just being able to have a quick and easy, reusable writing surface, dedicated spot, not having to look for paper or pencils or anything. Just jot down your notes or measurements, do the math real quick on the board, write some of the measurements down and so on. You can glance over at it and double check a measurement as you set the fence. Very convenient
I use scraps of wood, but an electronic style of “boogie board” is fantastic for this and cheap. I got one that is about 10”corner to corner and it was less than $10 about 4 years ago. You write with a stylus and then just touch one button and it erases the entire screen; that’s the only downside is that you can’t selectively erase, it’s all or nothing. You can scribble something, but you can’t just erase one little piece.
My two favs, Tip #1- I have a composite material shim hanging down from the ceiling above my table saw. I use whipper sniper line to hang it because it’ll recoil and pull itself back up out of my way after using it. I use the shim when cutting hardwood with tensioned grain that pinches the blade, (closes the kerf/pinched kerf). When this starts to happen I just pull down my shim hanging above me, place it in the kerf and safely finish my cut. Once the cuts complete the whipper sniper line recoils and clears the shim. As a guy who cuts only hardwood and many exotics, this idea has saved me a lot of agro and who knows? Possibly even an injury? Tip#2- it’s an easy “blue tape” trick I use when building something I want to stain. Prior to shooting any brad nails, place blue tape there first, then shoot the brad nails in, this leaves just a perfect brad size whole in the blue tape that way when you apply your wood filler, the filler only goes in the brads recess and NOT smeared into a large area of the grain which is a nightmare because wood filler just won’t take stain exactly the same as clean wood. Hope these help someone.
@@EveningWoodworker and when the tape measure gets snagged on a power tool and pulls your hips arm or leg into the tool and takes it off ... DUMBEST TIP EVER attaching a tape measure or ANYTHING to you and using while attached to you is the worst most unsafe a most idiotic idea ever ... it is how people lose limbs .. heck Americans eat Tide pods for bloody sakes they wont know enough to keep the tape measure away or out of power tools .... heck they can barely comprehend that they dont vote their leader in they just acknowledge the two options big business has put before them ..
@@0623kaboom How can the tape gets snagged on a power tool? I usually mark down my measure and put my tape aside BEFORE triggering my tool! I can't see the difference it makes to get a hard time either putting my tape back in its pocket and/or keep looking for wherever I put it because I was too lazy to put it back in my toolbelt! 🤨
In my shop I just spend the entire time cleaning and reorganizing everything over and over again. Then, I don’t have to actually build anything, but.. you can say: “honey I was “busy” in the shop..” 😉 Great tips!!! 👍🏽
Emanuel - That is me to a T.... and in between cleaning and reorganizing, when I actually DO build something, it's a jig or shop improvement. Stay 'busy' my friend.
I'm also obsessed with having a clean and organized shop. It makes me cringe watching some guys on TH-cam who have dust everywhere, tools scattered about, and just a general mess. even when working on a project I'm constantly cleaning up and putting things away throughout the day so my shop stays tidy and in order. I know I waste a lot of time that could be spent on productive work, but I'm happier while I work if my work environment is in order.
A tip from my small shop is put everything on shop wheels. I don't have enough space to dedicate a location for each and every tool. This way I can push them about and make room for the one I'm using.
I appreciate it you getting to the point “how to do things” a lot easier without sending me to a store to buy items that I won’t use! I also appreciate you sharing your ideas and passion with all of us, that’s why I gave your video a like and subscribed to your channel.
A couple of things about tape measures. Don’t let the tape snap back into the housing like on the video. It wears out the hook and makes it less accurate for measurements. Also use the same tape measure for an entire building project. There is differences in accuracy in tape measures.
I'm shop foreman in our workshop and I always try to teach guys to ease the tape back in instead of letting it snap back like in the video. Over time it will actually bend the tip to the point a tape can be out 3 or even 4mm. Can't tell you the amount of times I've had guys tell me something was cut too small only to measure it with my own tape and find it spot on. Then you ask to see their tape and it's all kinds of ruined.
@@zuilok As a retired machinist, I can say that they do vary, and by a good bit. We had to have ours calibrated by the inspection dept before we could use them. Most of the time for woodworking they are just fine though.
The crosscut sled was the first thing I made for my table saw. It has been a major time and space saver. I am absolutely going to try that tape measure trick
Only issue I have with that tip is the more you let it snap back into the tape the more the rivets start to let go then the tape tip starts to move more throwing measurements off. Will work fine if you dont just let it go and guide it back
Many of you may know this blue-tape trick: For template routing, or using a router trim bit, you can attach two work pieces together by putting blue tape on each piece, then using CA glue on one side and accelerator on the other. Hold them together for a second, then they are ready for your routing operation. When completed, use a putty knife slipped between the two pieces to separate them. It works great!
i have a small diameter tape measure that i have stapled horizonally to my work bench so i just have to hold the board up to it and measure. learned that from my industrial sewing machine table !
Thanks so much for sharing these tips. My favorite was the use of blue painters tape to get thin stock cuts all uniform (like your sanding disk shelving). Keep these great ideas coming. Thanks again.
Thank you. I've watched quite a few of these tips videos that don't explain what's going on, and they often go so fast that I completely miss it. I much prefer yours.
Brilliant! That first tip for cutting tapers, so simple yet earth shattering. I've got a couple homemade jigs for cutting tapers and they are unwieldy and pretty much guess work getting the angles. This is a much, much better idea. Thanks for that and all the tips.
That long rip jig idea is something I will definitely be using, and not just for the longer tapered rips! I've been meaning to put a handle and surface-mount clamps on a board to cut tapers, with the jig rubbing the rip fence. And may yet do so when I have enough of them to cut to justify making and storing the jig. But at my current level of need to cut tapers, this trick is all I'm gonna use for a while! Thanks very much!
I am in my 60's and have been woodworking for decades. I made my first sled this winter. I screw an wood auxiliary fence to my miter gauge. This has worked as good as a sled. I can clamp to it. I provides zero clearance to prevent tear-out, and is easily replaced. When I buy a tape measure, the first thing I do is remove that annoying clip. I wear a belt with pockets (though less bulky than a carpenters belt) and I wear Carhartt cargo pants. This gives me quick access to my tools.
Great little video. I'm a long time woodworker and I picked up a couple of tricks from it. Here's my tip: Radial arm saws are notoriously not really good at anything so I have mine set up to do just one thing, a perfectly square crosscut, and I NEVER use it for any other cuts. Another issue with radial arms saws is that the blade cuts into the table surface and destroys it pretty quickly resulting in tearout on the underside of your workpiece.. I simply eliminate the issue by covering the table surface with a 48" x 20" piece of hardboard. It saves the table, but more importantly, the hardboard can be moved sideways so I always have a fresh supporting surface to reduce/eliminate tearout on the underside of my workpiece.
I love my crosscut sled. It was easy to build and even my janky gear got me to about .005" out of square on the first try. I didn't even try to get it more accurate, I just locked it down. I didn't add any t-track or anything fancy, I just clamp a block or two or whatever else I need to get set up and then go from there. It's simple and indispensable. I look forward to seeing what you come up with for yours.
The tape measure idea is great. Also I have multiple small tapes like 6’ or 9’ in several key places. I rarely measure things longer than 3-4 feet so I see no reason for a bulky 25 ft tape on my belt or pocket. Also I use magnets to mount the tapes on the frame of the bandsaw, table saw and on a magnet on the wall above my main work bench.
Tape measures rarely measure the same. I have, in the past and continue to use ONE tape for ALL measurements. Learned this in a machine shop. EVERY tape varies. In its zero and at various places along its length. Framing on a cut station, this rarely matters. The differences are minor from one tape to another. In furniture fabrication, they can be the difference between success and utter failure.
Don't let your tape snap back hard it will start to wear out the holes that hold the tip on making your tape measure less accurate over time. You can also check your tapes against each other from time to time to make sure they all read the same.
Tape Measures: most of the time in woodworking, you're dealing with boards under 10ft in length. Or at least, after you mill them up into usable boards. For tapes, I bought a 5-pack of the small, 12ft tapes for under $20. Then I removed the clips on the back and glued a magnet to each. Now, I have one stuck on my table saw, my miter saw, my drill press and a few others that I carry around the shop. I HATE using tool belts or aprons with piles of tools stuck in them. I feel like it limits my mobility and I'd rather just have the tools I'm using sitting on my assembly table, etc. I still use my giant 30ft tape for occasionally rough cutting large boards, but having a small army of little tapes has been a game changer. Just make sure they're all the same brand (and a quality brand) so you get consistent measurements.
@@tvienti I actually bought Hart tapes. I know, I know, Walmart house brand. But I compared them against my Milwaukie tape and they're pretty dead on accurate. Maybe 1/32ths difference over 10ft, which is good enough for most of us not designing spaceships. Plus, the pack I bought was maybe $12.99, if memory serves. I probably wouldn't buy a table saw there, but sometimes the cheap stuff from Walmart or Harbor Freight is exactly what you need.
@@timothymbess Fortunately most of my marquetry that needs sub-32nds accuracy is under 10' and we can fall-back to the flat-bed LASER cutter if necessary. For the rare 100' circassian walnut deck, I just use GPS. /satire
@@timothymbess - I myself down through the years since I was a youngster, have just dabbled in woodworking for building projects just for my own use, or for my own family's use, though I do sometimes build a project for a relative or a friend. So therefore I generally don't need an expensive table saw. (Though it would be nice to own such an item). After buying many other off brand cheap table-top table saws over the years of which generally didn't last very long, (two of them lasted until I got them home, turned them on and tried to rip an 8 ft. 1X4.). I finally decided to give it one last shot. Back in 1998, I had a project I needed to do, of which called for more than just the use of a circular saw. Well, all I had was my old trusty Black and Decker metal encased Circular Saw that cost $19.99 back in the early 1970's (which I still have, and of which still works just fine). So, I decided to buy another cheap table-top table saw from Walmart for that project. Yes. It was a cheap brand by the name of "Black & Decker" that cost a whopping $139.99 at that time. Well, guess what, I still have that cheap $139.99 Black & Decker Table-Top Table Saw, and it still works just fine, and you wouldn't believe some of the abuse I have put it through including cutting odd-shaped and bent and twisted logs for use in the wood stove every winter. One time I was at Home Depot and had the money to buy an expensive Table Saw. It had all the bells and whistles on it that I would ever need. The only problem was, that I didn't have my pickup truck that day, and was riding as a passenger in my daughters small car and there was no way I could have got that huge table saw (let alone leaving it in its shipping box), in that car., and Home Depot wanted another $250.00 for home delivery to my house (round trip to my house and back from that home depot was over 150 miles). Just buying that table saw alone would have wiped out my funds (it was almost $700.00). Well, my daughter and my wife refused to let me buy that table saw as they said my wife needed another washing machine instead as hers was about gone-over-the-hill after 15 years of use, so they took the money and went to the local appliance store and bought my wife a new washing machine and that appliance dealer delivered it for free. Oh-Well, So much for ever being able to buy and own an expensive table saw, I'll just continue to use my old trusty cheap $139.99 Black & Decker table-top table saw. At least it still works and is still hanging in there after all these years for everything I need to use it for. Am I complaining or whining? Not a bit. I'm just kindly informing you that sometimes even a cheap table saw will work and last a long time.
Oh my gosh! This was great. Especially the tape measure! I never would have thought of that! The simplicity of it. Can’t wait to try this out tomorrow. 😂👍🏼
I have a little reel that holds my pencil that I use this way too. Saves a ton of time, and you don’t break pencils nearly as much putting them into a little pocket on your belt
OMG that trick with keeping the tape measure on your belt is THE most valuable tip I've seen all year! And believe me, I've been watching a LOT of youtube videos on building out my garage...er...workshop. ;)
DURING YOUR GLUING OF THOSE BOARDS, I ALSO WOULD ADD BLUE TAPE ON THE INSIDE AT THE EDGE OF THE FOLD. THIS ALLOWS FOR THE GLUE TO BLEED OUT ONTO THE BLUETAPE WHENASSEMBLED...GIVE IT ABOUT 30 SECONDS AND PEEL THE INSIDE BLUE TAPE OFF, LITTLE TOO NO GLUE CLEAN UP.
When cutting many small pieces, as you were in this video, it would be a good idea to use an L shaped standoff on the fence with a 3-4" leg. That way it leaves more room for the cutoffs to collect in between the blade and the fence, reducing the chances of them hitting the spinning blade.
The auxiliary fence idea is great for safe and consistent cuts. Would suggest making it wider by bumping it out or making it L-shaped. That will give you more clearance between the blade and main fence, which will further reduce the chance of a workpiece touching the back of the blade. In the video a few of those small pieces looked like they came close to going airborne.
^ Plus: If the diagonal corner distance on the cut pieces is wider than the fence to blade distance you have a full-fat kickback hazard. Grab a push stick to get them clear instead of using your hands.
I like the tape measure tip, with one caveat, letting the tape just zip back like that, I have found, tends to loosen the hook tip which will throw off your measurement. Good video.
and you are at the table saw band saw miter table lathe etc and the tape measure gets snagged ... and poof you are now the project piece ... NO NEVER attach a tool to your person to be used ... while it is still attached .... same reason why the shop teacher never wore a tie ... of had long chains hanging down his front ... they get caught you lose bits ... BASIC shop safety ... attaching a tape measure to you to be used is the WORST STUPIDIST MOST USELESS AND DEADLY TIP EVER
Use the same tape measure on each of your projects, because many tape measures have about slightly different measurements. Using different ones have thrown off my projects more than once.
because american made tape measures SUCK for quality ... they all have excessive play on the end ... THIS is where the main error comes from the other ... the printing process is NOT 100% accurate it is off by a few thousandths of a inch ... and over distance this adds up FAST ... third a tape measure is JUST a rough measure NOT the be all end all of measuring tools ... treat it as such ... if you want an accurate measurement use a metal ruler ... they do come in very long lengths and are MACHINED to Millionths of an inch ... and are square on every side ... so they also make a perfect straight edge ...
Allowing your tape to snap back as shown in the video will soon effect its accuracy as the hook end gets pulled away a bit each time. Not noticeably for drywalling or framing but cabinetry yes.
Excellent tips and tricks well presented. And great to see another blue tape disciple! I always have a roll in my tool bag 👍 it's like the long nose pliers or the pry bar - infinitely useful.
My favorite woodworking tip is to make a table cross-cut sled!!! Just kidding. But please make sure to tape the whole thing and apply your awesome skills to the task. I use mine constantly and would love to see Mr. Evening's take on the classic table saw jig! I highly suggest imbedding t-track into the bed of the sled for hold down options, 45s, and 60s. Maybe integrating some sort of box joint jig capabilities? Or a replaceable zero-clearance/dado blade insert? The sky's the limit.
This is one thing that has always bothered me. Of all the woodwork videos I’ve watched ... ohh, I need to make another sled for this. I don’t know what I did with my list but I wrote down all of the possibilities of a sled and just need to figure out how to make it all work. One thing I saw, after my plan, was the only reason to have a second sled - different saw kerf But then I’ve also seen an insert to make that adjustable also.
Let me start by saying I've watched an unhealthy number of crosscut sled videos on TH-cam. The best zero clearance solution I've seen by far is on the Microjig MatchFit crosscut sled. Rather than just making it replaceable, they make it interchangeable so you've got one for a thin kerf, another for a dado stack, another for a full kerf blade, etc. Four small screws release the insert and you can change out in seconds. It is genius.
@@StormGod29 I think that Microjig crosscut sled is beautiful. I guess it was semantically the same in my mind as what I meant by saying "replaceable" vs. "interchangeable", so I apologize. It does seem to need a lot of custom hardware for it though. I really like using t-track since I can use a 1/4" bolt just fine. The nice thing though, you get to make your crosscut sled truly your own! Also, in the Microjig video I saw, the guy never truly established his cross cut sled fence 90 degrees to the blade. It may very well be accurate, but it does bring up a great point. @The Evening Woodworker, you should look into the William Ng's 5-cut method. I was able to get my sled accurate to 0.003" over 25" off of a perfect 90. A bit overkill, but super nice to trust a cross cut sled to be accurate.
I like to make jigs for various tasks. I have a really simple jig/sled for cutting keyway slots in the outside of mitred picture frames (of course, also works for any mitred joint). I’ll often use a contrasting wood for the key just to show off the joint rather than hiding it. I’ve also made a jig/sled for the table saw for making dovetails - I have a couple of factory-built router dovetail jigs, but I prefer to vary the sizes to give a more hand-made effect. (I know, I know, for the purists, it’s only handmade if you use a handsaw and chisels)That’s great if time is of no consequence). I also use my Bosch sliding mitre saw to make larger dovetails in heavier material i.e.: 2” thick (set the depth and either tilt the blade or set a mitre angle depending on pins or tails). It’s great for making large table legs (6x6 or 8x8) out of 2” material, dovetailed on 4 sides. Hmmm….maybe I should make a video…. I was pretty proud of myself for designing and building these functional jigs. Until I came across numerous ones on youtube that were very similar (I built mine before I had internet). Guess I wasn’t so smart after all…
Thanks for the long taper jig idea. I was thinking through how to taper a rabbet for a long board and was thinking of the table saw geometry differently. Your idea is much better.
I write on my tools/machines. Usually, it's a wrench size so I know what wrench to go get to tighten/loosen a bolt or hex screw. I also marked the direction for raising/lowering my shaper head so I can limit backlash. Also good on routers so you know the rotation when looking from the usage position.
@@EveningWoodworker here's a tip you maybe did not think about - your affiliate links promote a union busting company that fights against human rights.
That last tip has one drawback. The end of the tape measure has a movable end-stop. It is designed so you get accurate measurement both inside and outside of what ever you are measuring. I think most everyone knows that. The problem with letting it snap back, is that can damage the end-stop. You should never let a tape measure snap back. So just hold the end as it retracts and don't let it snap back. I have seen many damaged tape measures over the years from people just letting it snap back. I'll bet every older wood worker can say the same.
I believe that remark to be unsubstantiated. Way over 60 years in woodworking and as yet never seen any fluctuation with any tape due to popping it back. That is kinda like having a 64th measurement, who can even see one?
@@mightyporky Well, I've seen them torn right off. The light flimsy tape measures are more likely to break than the well built name-brand ones. A friend of mine broke two of them and still has not learned not to do it. His comment was, "they are cheap, I'll just buy another one." So I guess it comes down to abusing your tools are taking care of them. It's up to the person using them.
40 + year carpenter...absolutely correct on letting the tape measure snapping back...seen many novices ruin a good tape measure in a rather short amount of time...
I have heard many, many, many times to never let go of your tape measure so that it retracts and slams the end. Over time it will elongate the holes on the tip and the tape measure would no longer be accurate. I stop the retraction before it slams in and hold the tape so it finishes retracting easily.
guyontheblackchair The tab on the end of a standard tape measure has to float 1/16 of an inch. Which is the exact thickness of the tab that one hooks the end of a tape measure to the end of a board to measure for a cut. If one needs to measure the width of a door opening, the outside of the tab is placed on the inside of the opening. The tab slides toward the case of the tape measure. The tab is actually the first 1/16 of an inch of the opening.
It aint science of the rocket is it lamfao bill morris you are just too sharp for most folk knowing secrets like this will get you disposed of! ;^)@@billmorris2613
Great video and tips, I've been a pro woodworker for 25 years and have taped joints together many times. Here is my tip, try using clear 2" packing tap instead of blue. I think it works better. You need to start with the glue side down and the edges of the joint aligned and touching. Put packing tape on the wood and roll it with a laminate rolling tool, this helps with adhesion. Turn the project over and glue. To seal the final joint, use long strips of tape horizontally to the joint, (90 degrees). Here is the best part, packing tape stretches, so put one end a good distance from the joint, secure it well then stretch the tape over the joint seam and attach around the other side. This will act very nicely as a strong clamp. So many good applications with this tape, especially when nails are not an option. Thank you, and keep the tips coming.
Letting the tape snap back can loosen the riveted hook (making it less accurate), and can eventually break the rivets or tape. You also risk having the edge of the tape cut you.
That tape measure trick is pretty neat. I`ll have to try that out. It took me a long time to make a cross cut sled too but OH MAN!!!! Do i ever love it now that i do have it. Get around to it my friend. You will be very happy that you did; especiall when it comes to cross cutting larger pieces.
Don't let your tape snap back hard it will start to wear out the holes that hold the tip on making your tape measure less accurate over time. You can also check your tapes against each other from time to time to make sure they all read the same.
There’s a problem with letting go of your tape measure like that. After doing that a few times your tape is no longer accurate. The holes where the end is riveted on get wallowed out and you’ll notice a difference. The difference is especially noticeable between the “inside” and “outside” readings.
The end is supposed to slide on those rivets, the holes are slots. Letting it free spool back into itself can damage the slots and increase the length of the outside measurements. Just want to clarify since some people think the hook is supposed to be stationary and they hammer the rivets.
Some times the monetary increase in efficiency is worth far more than the cost of a new tape measure. Plus there are some tape measures I have seen that have a shock absorbing material that prevents the end of the tape measure from slamming to a stop just for that reason. Does not mean that distortion due to impact damage will not happen but it will take a lot longer before the tape measure needs to be replaced. Like all things, it is a balancing act between profit and cost. In this case it will mean far more extra profit than the cost of a new tape and the old tape can still be easily used where great accuracy is not necessary, like framing walls and assembling beams that will probably be trimmed and planed before installation anyway.
There are tape measures that do read the other direction. I have a Lee Valley 10' cabinetmakers tape (For Righthanders) Guessing Fastcap would probably have them too.
Why not? There’s nothing to get it caught on. I’ve been wearing a wedding ring for over 50 years and haven’t had an issue yet. You’re probably one of those SawStop guy’s thats afraid of the blade.
Never though I’d comment on a TH-cam video but my god I was degloved 3 years ago my ring got caught in a brad nail that was sitting proud of the molding on my garage vertical beams, I was running to shut the breaker off and glided my hand on the pillar as a passed by and then it was a wrap man. My finger stayed my body kept moving forward
I really enjoyed your blue tape tricks. One I would like to share that comes in handy is to put blue tape on a surface before you draw you layout lines. Such as on a surface you don’t want to mar, then dill through marked locations on tape and remove afterwards. Thanks again for your helpful hints.
Or use a different colored lead in a mechanical pencil to make it stand out more against the blue. I have red and black, looking for white for my favorite pencil but no luck so far. May have to buy one of those "expensive" ones that use a "holster"... Ugh! $$
Thanks! I have a playlist with the shop tour and the build videos for most of the stuff in my shop: th-cam.com/play/PLV-F3MjIQnNTiXMDdZkuRm5MEHMzGMEFl.html
I’ve been leaving my tape measure on my belt forever. Sometimes I get teased about it but it works great. I thought I was the only one who did that. Love it! 👍
Frog tape is definitely better. And you will pay a premium. But I only go through a roll or 2 a year so it’s worth it. And the plastic container stops dirt from sticking to the side of the tape.
YESS!!!! I've been doing that with my tape measure for so long! I have a 6ft tape measure on a keyring attached to my hip all the time, I never lose it.
I keep several tape measurers with magnets on them around the shop. they live on the stand or table leg of whatever piece of equipment or bench I am working on. Always handy and always goes back where it came from..... mostly! LOL I do love the Idea of just pulling the tape out and letting it retract all by itself.
Years ago I remember a carpenter measuring with a tape just like you demonstrated. As a kid, I thought that was odd behavior so I quickly forgot about it. That was over 50 years ago, Wow! Thanks. I love the tape idea of cutting the same odd shapes on many boards. Excellent info.
I literally was just using a similar taping method for angled cuts yesterday, yours is clearly better. Also keeping the tape on your belt, blew my mind.
I like the leave it on your belt trick. and yes it did explode my mind. the simplest tricks usually do. but I never let the spring in the tape reel it in too hard. over time the tape will be off. thanks.
A very informative video. The only caveat that I could see is that you made the number 1 mistake many in the woodworking field do that results in premature tape measure failure (breaking of the tape where the rivets to the end clip are fastened). When letting in the tape after its use in the extended position, use your finger as a drag on the bottom of the tape to slow the retrieval down and then let the clip bump into your finger before it's fully retracted. I haven't had to replace a tape very often using this technique, only after years of use when it finally wears out. Keep up the good videos... Been at it for almost 50 years... Kim
Ok I didn’t care about any of this (stuff I already do)…. Until the last one THAT BLEW MY MIND!!!! Great tip!!! I will never admit to knowing everything and that’s why I always watch these types of videos, well done. Always stay learning!!
Amen to the temp/humidity gauge. Unless your shop is really big, a small dehumidifier makes a huge difference and they're not expensive. No more warped wood or rust on your tools is priceless.
@JmeUS Good question! Exhause not needed! In air-conditioned shops, humidity is usually not a problem in summer. The AC is a dehumidifier in itself. My shop usually runs 45-55% RH all summer without the dehumidifier. In winter, not so bad either. Spring and Fall are when I need my dehumidifier most because the AC is not running much. If your shop is big or not well closed in, I suppose the AC may not be enough. Hope that helps!
But spending 15 mins trying to find where I put down my tape measure is the best part of my day! 😎
Haha that's why we have so many!
I can be in an empty room and lose my tape measure
No kidding LOL. My favorite is when you're holding something together and you need to mark it, and your pencil is 9' away from you🤣. Then you have to drag your project and yourself across the floor trying to get to the stupid pencil before you ruin your perfect fit. 🤪
I always try to keep my pencil, tape measure and a razor on me when im working. Gotta make it a habit not to set it down where youre working
These tape comments got me busting up 😂😂
Also, that's damn genius. The mind blown clip is 100% warranted.
My tip that I don't really see people do:
I think one of the best things you can do is get a whiteboard/dry erase board in your shop. Just being able to have a quick and easy, reusable writing surface, dedicated spot, not having to look for paper or pencils or anything. Just jot down your notes or measurements, do the math real quick on the board, write some of the measurements down and so on. You can glance over at it and double check a measurement as you set the fence. Very convenient
I do this and it is a great idea!
I just write on my bench
I use scraps of wood, but an electronic style of “boogie board” is fantastic for this and cheap. I got one that is about 10”corner to corner and it was less than $10 about 4 years ago. You write with a stylus and then just touch one button and it erases the entire screen; that’s the only downside is that you can’t selectively erase, it’s all or nothing. You can scribble something, but you can’t just erase one little piece.
I just use my phone
Sounds good.
My two favs,
Tip #1- I have a composite material shim hanging down from the ceiling above my table saw. I use whipper sniper line to hang it because it’ll recoil and pull itself back up out of my way after using it. I use the shim when cutting hardwood with tensioned grain that pinches the blade, (closes the kerf/pinched kerf). When this starts to happen I just pull down my shim hanging above me, place it in the kerf and safely finish my cut. Once the cuts complete the whipper sniper line recoils and clears the shim. As a guy who cuts only hardwood and many exotics, this idea has saved me a lot of agro and who knows? Possibly even an injury?
Tip#2- it’s an easy “blue tape” trick I use when building something I want to stain. Prior to shooting any brad nails, place blue tape there first, then shoot the brad nails in, this leaves just a perfect brad size whole in the blue tape that way when you apply your wood filler, the filler only goes in the brads recess and NOT smeared into a large area of the grain which is a nightmare because wood filler just won’t take stain exactly the same as clean wood.
Hope these help someone.
Oooo I like that blue tape one! I always end up sanding a ton to get rid of all the filler on the surface.
@@EveningWoodworker and when the tape measure gets snagged on a power tool and pulls your hips arm or leg into the tool and takes it off ...
DUMBEST TIP EVER attaching a tape measure or ANYTHING to you and using while attached to you is the worst most unsafe a most idiotic idea ever ... it is how people lose limbs .. heck Americans eat Tide pods for bloody sakes they wont know enough to keep the tape measure away or out of power tools .... heck they can barely comprehend that they dont vote their leader in they just acknowledge the two options big business has put before them ..
@@0623kaboom How can the tape gets snagged on a power tool? I usually mark down my measure and put my tape aside BEFORE triggering my tool! I can't see the difference it makes to get a hard time either putting my tape back in its pocket and/or keep looking for wherever I put it because I was too lazy to put it back in my toolbelt! 🤨
Dang, taping before the brads is going to help a lot. Some things are so logical you wonder how you never thought of it. Thanks!
@@randyspencer5664 He fries bacon naked to avoid getting grease spatter on his shirt.
Blue tape also comes in handy to hold the end of your tape measure for longer distance when you don't have an extra hand to help hold it in place.
Well done thankyou good tips
In my shop I just spend the entire time cleaning and reorganizing everything over and over again. Then, I don’t have to actually build anything, but.. you can say: “honey I was “busy” in the shop..” 😉
Great tips!!! 👍🏽
I see we have similar work styles! 😀
Emanuel - That is me to a T.... and in between cleaning and reorganizing, when I actually DO build something, it's a jig or shop improvement. Stay 'busy' my friend.
@@richieprimoretro yes 🙌 the good ole Jig or Shop Furniture piece that will “one day” help me build something else. 😉
@@Mr.GucciClass1A me too..love working stuff out...never happy with the end result
I'm also obsessed with having a clean and organized shop. It makes me cringe watching some guys on TH-cam who have dust everywhere, tools scattered about, and just a general mess. even when working on a project I'm constantly cleaning up and putting things away throughout the day so my shop stays tidy and in order. I know I waste a lot of time that could be spent on productive work, but I'm happier while I work if my work environment is in order.
You get to the point without any wasted words or time, great job, thank you!
Perfect trick for me as I need to make a small ramp base for my husband’s wheelchair so he can get up one step onto our path to the porch. Thanks!
A tip from my small shop is put everything on shop wheels. I don't have enough space to dedicate a location for each and every tool. This way I can push them about and make room for the one I'm using.
Love the taper jig! Simple, straightforward, repeatable, cheap, and doesn’t take up valuable garage space.
Yes that was the best tip.
Yes but there is always a great chance that while retracting it can cause cut to exposed body areas.
I appreciate it you getting to the point “how to do things” a lot easier without sending me to a store to buy items that I won’t use! I also appreciate you sharing your ideas and passion with all of us, that’s why I gave your video a like and subscribed to your channel.
I sincerely enjoyed every tip in your video. And very much appreciated how you get to the point of something concisely and quickly. Thank you.
You earned a subscribe not just for the useful ideas but for the no non-sense get to the point presentation. Keep it up.
Thank you! That's what I'm trying to do.
A couple of things about tape measures. Don’t let the tape snap back into the housing like on the video. It wears out the hook and makes it less accurate for measurements. Also use the same tape measure for an entire building project. There is differences in accuracy in tape measures.
I am pretty sure projectfarm disproved this myth about tape measures.
I'm shop foreman in our workshop and I always try to teach guys to ease the tape back in instead of letting it snap back like in the video. Over time it will actually bend the tip to the point a tape can be out 3 or even 4mm. Can't tell you the amount of times I've had guys tell me something was cut too small only to measure it with my own tape and find it spot on. Then you ask to see their tape and it's all kinds of ruined.
@@zuilok As a retired machinist, I can say that they do vary, and by a good bit. We had to have ours calibrated by the inspection dept before we could use them. Most of the time for woodworking they are just fine though.
Also they can inflict nasty cuts if there is a small nick or anything and they retract quickly. Don’t ask me how I know 😂
@@jackthomson73same!! Last time I ever do that!
The crosscut sled was the first thing I made for my table saw. It has been a major time and space saver. I am absolutely going to try that tape measure trick
Only issue I have with that tip is the more you let it snap back into the tape the more the rivets start to let go then the tape tip starts to move more throwing measurements off. Will work fine if you dont just let it go and guide it back
Many of you may know this blue-tape trick: For template routing, or using a router trim bit, you can attach two work pieces together by putting blue tape on each piece, then using CA glue on one side and accelerator on the other. Hold them together for a second, then they are ready for your routing operation. When completed, use a putty knife slipped between the two pieces to separate them. It works great!
i have a small diameter tape measure that i have stapled horizonally to my work bench so i just have to hold the board up to it and measure. learned that from my industrial sewing machine table !
Thanks so much for sharing these tips. My favorite was the use of blue painters tape to get thin stock cuts all uniform (like your sanding disk shelving). Keep these great ideas coming. Thanks again.
Thank you. I've watched quite a few of these tips videos that don't explain what's going on, and they often go so fast that I completely miss it. I much prefer yours.
Brilliant! That first tip for cutting tapers, so simple yet earth shattering. I've got a couple homemade jigs for cutting tapers and they are unwieldy and pretty much guess work getting the angles. This is a much, much better idea. Thanks for that and all the tips.
Glad it helped!
That long rip jig idea is something I will definitely be using, and not just for the longer tapered rips! I've been meaning to put a handle and surface-mount clamps on a board to cut tapers, with the jig rubbing the rip fence. And may yet do so when I have enough of them to cut to justify making and storing the jig. But at my current level of need to cut tapers, this trick is all I'm gonna use for a while! Thanks very much!
Holy crap! The tape measuring thing is the smartest thing I’ve heard all year!!! Thanks for that.
I am in my 60's and have been woodworking for decades. I made my first sled this winter.
I screw an wood auxiliary fence to my miter gauge. This has worked as good as a sled. I can clamp to it. I provides zero clearance to prevent tear-out, and is easily replaced.
When I buy a tape measure, the first thing I do is remove that annoying clip. I wear a belt with pockets (though less bulky than a carpenters belt) and I wear Carhartt cargo pants. This gives me quick access to my tools.
Great little video. I'm a long time woodworker and I picked up a couple of tricks from it. Here's my tip: Radial arm saws are notoriously not really good at anything so I have mine set up to do just one thing, a perfectly square crosscut, and I NEVER use it for any other cuts. Another issue with radial arms saws is that the blade cuts into the table surface and destroys it pretty quickly resulting in tearout on the underside of your workpiece.. I simply eliminate the issue by covering the table surface with a 48" x 20" piece of hardboard. It saves the table, but more importantly, the hardboard can be moved sideways so I always have a fresh supporting surface to reduce/eliminate tearout on the underside of my workpiece.
That tape measure trick literally blew my mind. It's so simple that you feel stupid for not already thinking of it. These were great tips. Thanks!
The difference between a good craftsmen and a bad craftsmen is a good craftsmen knows how to fix his mistakes. Good video.
Couldn't agree more!
I love my crosscut sled. It was easy to build and even my janky gear got me to about .005" out of square on the first try. I didn't even try to get it more accurate, I just locked it down. I didn't add any t-track or anything fancy, I just clamp a block or two or whatever else I need to get set up and then go from there. It's simple and indispensable. I look forward to seeing what you come up with for yours.
Me too! I'm getting lots of good ideas for features.
Last tip was the best! I have 5 or 6 tape measures around my small shop at each essential tool! Thanks!
Just don't let them fly in though....it trashes a tape in no time at all.
The tape measure idea is great. Also I have multiple small tapes like 6’ or 9’ in several key places. I rarely measure things longer than 3-4 feet so I see no reason for a bulky 25 ft tape on my belt or pocket. Also I use magnets to mount the tapes on the frame of the bandsaw, table saw and on a magnet on the wall above my main work bench.
That's a great tip!
Tape measures rarely measure the same. I have, in the past and continue to use ONE tape for ALL measurements. Learned this in a machine shop. EVERY tape varies. In its zero and at various places along its length. Framing on a cut station, this rarely matters. The differences are minor from one tape to another. In furniture fabrication, they can be the difference between success and utter failure.
@@valdo345jr absolutely. I only use one tape measure as well. Only problem is everything still has big gaps 😅
Don't let your tape snap back hard it will start to wear out the holes that hold the tip on making your tape measure less accurate over time. You can also check your tapes against each other from time to time to make sure they all read the same.
@@Jim-hk6rd that theory has been pretty much debunked my Steve Ramsay.
Many of these were new for me and very useful! Very helpful in the shop. Thanks
Tape Measures: most of the time in woodworking, you're dealing with boards under 10ft in length. Or at least, after you mill them up into usable boards. For tapes, I bought a 5-pack of the small, 12ft tapes for under $20. Then I removed the clips on the back and glued a magnet to each. Now, I have one stuck on my table saw, my miter saw, my drill press and a few others that I carry around the shop. I HATE using tool belts or aprons with piles of tools stuck in them. I feel like it limits my mobility and I'd rather just have the tools I'm using sitting on my assembly table, etc.
I still use my giant 30ft tape for occasionally rough cutting large boards, but having a small army of little tapes has been a game changer. Just make sure they're all the same brand (and a quality brand) so you get consistent measurements.
Good advice. Any favorite brands?
@@tvienti I actually bought Hart tapes. I know, I know, Walmart house brand. But I compared them against my Milwaukie tape and they're pretty dead on accurate. Maybe 1/32ths difference over 10ft, which is good enough for most of us not designing spaceships. Plus, the pack I bought was maybe $12.99, if memory serves.
I probably wouldn't buy a table saw there, but sometimes the cheap stuff from Walmart or Harbor Freight is exactly what you need.
@@timothymbess Well, there goes the spaceship I was going to build in my basement.
@@timothymbess Fortunately most of my marquetry that needs sub-32nds accuracy is under 10' and we can fall-back to the flat-bed LASER cutter if necessary. For the rare 100' circassian walnut deck, I just use GPS.
/satire
@@timothymbess - I myself down through the years since I was a youngster, have just dabbled in woodworking for building projects just for my own use, or for my own family's use, though I do sometimes build a project for a relative or a friend. So therefore I generally don't need an expensive table saw. (Though it would be nice to own such an item).
After buying many other off brand cheap table-top table saws over the years of which generally didn't last very long, (two of them lasted until I got them home, turned them on and tried to rip an 8 ft. 1X4.). I finally decided to give it one last shot. Back in 1998, I had a project I needed to do, of which called for more than just the use of a circular saw. Well, all I had was my old trusty Black and Decker metal encased Circular Saw that cost $19.99 back in the early 1970's (which I still have, and of which still works just fine).
So, I decided to buy another cheap table-top table saw from Walmart for that project. Yes. It was a cheap brand by the name of "Black & Decker" that cost a whopping $139.99 at that time. Well, guess what, I still have that cheap $139.99 Black & Decker Table-Top Table Saw, and it still works just fine, and you wouldn't believe some of the abuse I have put it through including cutting odd-shaped and bent and twisted logs for use in the wood stove every winter.
One time I was at Home Depot and had the money to buy an expensive Table Saw. It had all the bells and whistles on it that I would ever need. The only problem was, that I didn't have my pickup truck that day, and was riding as a passenger in my daughters small car and there was no way I could have got that huge table saw (let alone leaving it in its shipping box), in that car., and Home Depot wanted another $250.00 for home delivery to my house (round trip to my house and back from that home depot was over 150 miles). Just buying that table saw alone would have wiped out my funds (it was almost $700.00).
Well, my daughter and my wife refused to let me buy that table saw as they said my wife needed another washing machine instead as hers was about gone-over-the-hill after 15 years of use, so they took the money and went to the local appliance store and bought my wife a new washing machine and that appliance dealer delivered it for free. Oh-Well, So much for ever being able to buy and own an expensive table saw, I'll just continue to use my old trusty cheap $139.99 Black & Decker table-top table saw. At least it still works and is still hanging in there after all these years for everything I need to use it for.
Am I complaining or whining? Not a bit. I'm just kindly informing you that sometimes even a cheap table saw will work and last a long time.
that long taper cut trick is a keeper. thanks
Oh my gosh! This was great. Especially the tape measure! I never would have thought of that! The simplicity of it. Can’t wait to try this out tomorrow. 😂👍🏼
It's awesome! You don't have to just let it go, but it definitely looks more dramatic!
I have a little reel that holds my pencil that I use this way too. Saves a ton of time, and you don’t break pencils nearly as much putting them into a little pocket on your belt
OMG that trick with keeping the tape measure on your belt is THE most valuable tip I've seen all year! And believe me, I've been watching a LOT of youtube videos on building out my garage...er...workshop. ;)
It's the best way to NOT lose your tape measure!
DURING YOUR GLUING OF THOSE BOARDS, I ALSO WOULD ADD BLUE TAPE ON THE INSIDE AT THE EDGE OF THE FOLD. THIS ALLOWS FOR THE GLUE TO BLEED OUT ONTO THE BLUETAPE WHENASSEMBLED...GIVE IT ABOUT 30 SECONDS AND PEEL THE INSIDE BLUE TAPE OFF, LITTLE TOO NO GLUE CLEAN UP.
I've been doing trim work and carpentry for 20 years and i love what I do and make a good living of it
When cutting many small pieces, as you were in this video, it would be a good idea to use an L shaped standoff on the fence with a 3-4" leg. That way it leaves more room for the cutoffs to collect in between the blade and the fence, reducing the chances of them hitting the spinning blade.
Just discovered you. This is the best, least time-wasting, truly useful woodworking tips video I’ve seen in a long time. Subscribed!
Thank you and welcome aboard!
The auxiliary fence idea is great for safe and consistent cuts. Would suggest making it wider by bumping it out or making it L-shaped. That will give you more clearance between the blade and main fence, which will further reduce the chance of a workpiece touching the back of the blade. In the video a few of those small pieces looked like they came close to going airborne.
^ Plus: If the diagonal corner distance on the cut pieces is wider than the fence to blade distance you have a full-fat kickback hazard.
Grab a push stick to get them clear instead of using your hands.
@@ConorMasterson And add a sacrificial backer on the miter gauge. It would allow you to push the cut piece clear of the blade. No?
This older video with so many handy tips caused me to subscribe. Well done!
Thanks! Glad it's still providing some benefit!
I like the tape measure tip, with one caveat, letting the tape just zip back like that, I have found, tends to loosen the hook tip which will throw off your measurement. Good video.
and you are at the table saw band saw miter table lathe etc and the tape measure gets snagged ... and poof you are now the project piece ... NO NEVER attach a tool to your person to be used ... while it is still attached .... same reason why the shop teacher never wore a tie ... of had long chains hanging down his front ... they get caught you lose bits ...
BASIC shop safety ... attaching a tape measure to you to be used is the WORST STUPIDIST MOST USELESS AND DEADLY TIP EVER
No snappy snappy. Finger pinching/slapping whip...and rough of your tools. Especially for a precise measurement.
love the black and white montage towards the end.
Use the same tape measure on each of your projects, because many tape measures have about slightly different measurements. Using different ones have thrown off my projects more than once.
because american made tape measures SUCK for quality ... they all have excessive play on the end ... THIS is where the main error comes from the other ... the printing process is NOT 100% accurate it is off by a few thousandths of a inch ... and over distance this adds up FAST ... third a tape measure is JUST a rough measure NOT the be all end all of measuring tools ... treat it as such ... if you want an accurate measurement use a metal ruler ... they do come in very long lengths and are MACHINED to Millionths of an inch ... and are square on every side ... so they also make a perfect straight edge ...
Allowing your tape to snap back as shown in the video will soon effect its accuracy as the hook end gets pulled away a bit each time. Not noticeably for drywalling or framing but cabinetry yes.
Tune and calibrate your tape and calibrate with your others, use burn an inch method, and don’t use a framing tape for finish work.
I saw a guy doing the tape measure trick 15 years ago and I've done it ever since. Good video
the measuring tape advice is gold. Thank you.
Excellent tips and tricks well presented.
And great to see another blue tape disciple! I always have a roll in my tool bag 👍 it's like the long nose pliers or the pry bar - infinitely useful.
Love the tape measure idea. I always leave it "over there" or "under that."
My favorite woodworking tip is to make a table cross-cut sled!!! Just kidding. But please make sure to tape the whole thing and apply your awesome skills to the task. I use mine constantly and would love to see Mr. Evening's take on the classic table saw jig! I highly suggest imbedding t-track into the bed of the sled for hold down options, 45s, and 60s. Maybe integrating some sort of box joint jig capabilities? Or a replaceable zero-clearance/dado blade insert? The sky's the limit.
Those are some great features! I'm gonna have to come back to this comment when I build mine!
This is one thing that has always bothered me. Of all the woodwork videos I’ve watched ... ohh, I need to make another sled for this.
I don’t know what I did with my list but I wrote down all of the possibilities of a sled and just need to figure out how to make it all work.
One thing I saw, after my plan, was the only reason to have a second sled - different saw kerf
But then I’ve also seen an insert to make that adjustable also.
Let me start by saying I've watched an unhealthy number of crosscut sled videos on TH-cam. The best zero clearance solution I've seen by far is on the Microjig MatchFit crosscut sled. Rather than just making it replaceable, they make it interchangeable so you've got one for a thin kerf, another for a dado stack, another for a full kerf blade, etc. Four small screws release the insert and you can change out in seconds. It is genius.
@@StormGod29 I think that Microjig crosscut sled is beautiful. I guess it was semantically the same in my mind as what I meant by saying "replaceable" vs. "interchangeable", so I apologize. It does seem to need a lot of custom hardware for it though. I really like using t-track since I can use a 1/4" bolt just fine. The nice thing though, you get to make your crosscut sled truly your own! Also, in the Microjig video I saw, the guy never truly established his cross cut sled fence 90 degrees to the blade. It may very well be accurate, but it does bring up a great point. @The Evening Woodworker, you should look into the William Ng's 5-cut method. I was able to get my sled accurate to 0.003" over 25" off of a perfect 90. A bit overkill, but super nice to trust a cross cut sled to be accurate.
I like to make jigs for various tasks. I have a really simple jig/sled for cutting keyway slots in the outside of mitred picture frames (of course, also works for any mitred joint). I’ll often use a contrasting wood for the key just to show off the joint rather than hiding it. I’ve also made a jig/sled for the table saw for making dovetails - I have a couple of factory-built router dovetail jigs, but I prefer to vary the sizes to give a more hand-made effect. (I know, I know, for the purists, it’s only handmade if you use a handsaw and chisels)That’s great if time is of no consequence). I also use my Bosch sliding mitre saw to make larger dovetails in heavier material i.e.: 2” thick (set the depth and either tilt the blade or set a mitre angle depending on pins or tails). It’s great for making large table legs (6x6 or 8x8) out of 2” material, dovetailed on 4 sides. Hmmm….maybe I should make a video….
I was pretty proud of myself for designing and building these functional jigs. Until I came across numerous ones on youtube that were very similar (I built mine before I had internet). Guess I wasn’t so smart after all…
Thanks for the long taper jig idea. I was thinking through how to taper a rabbet for a long board and was thinking of the table saw geometry differently. Your idea is much better.
Glad I could help!
I write on my tools/machines. Usually, it's a wrench size so I know what wrench to go get to tighten/loosen a bolt or hex screw. I also marked the direction for raising/lowering my shaper head so I can limit backlash. Also good on routers so you know the rotation when looking from the usage position.
That's great! ...that way you can just get the one you need!
Dittos. Saves time to have your “notes” right there. 👍🏼
I just leave whole wrench sets all over the place.
@@EveningWoodworker here's a tip you maybe did not think about - your affiliate links promote a union busting company that fights against human rights.
Oh I love the bucket one! I am having my grandkids help me build a wishing well for their mom for Mother's Day. This will be perfect!
Good luck!!
That last tip has one drawback. The end of the tape measure has a movable end-stop. It is designed so you get accurate measurement both inside and outside of what ever you are measuring. I think most everyone knows that. The problem with letting it snap back, is that can damage the end-stop. You should never let a tape measure snap back. So just hold the end as it retracts and don't let it snap back. I have seen many damaged tape measures over the years from people just letting it snap back. I'll bet every older wood worker can say the same.
I believe that remark to be unsubstantiated. Way over 60 years in woodworking and as yet never seen any fluctuation with any tape due to popping it back. That is kinda like having a 64th measurement, who can even see one?
@@mightyporky Well, I've seen them torn right off. The light flimsy tape measures are more likely to break than the well built name-brand ones. A friend of mine broke two of them and still has not learned not to do it. His comment was, "they are cheap, I'll just buy another one."
So I guess it comes down to abusing your tools are taking care of them. It's up to the person using them.
40 + year carpenter...absolutely correct on letting the tape measure snapping back...seen many novices ruin a good tape measure in a rather short amount of time...
@@paparoysworkshop th-cam.com/video/z9En0WAsP8A/w-d-xo.html....If as you say a friend broke two. the friend sure is extra rough on tools
@@markbrake6877 th-cam.com/video/z9En0WAsP8A/w-d-xo.html.....I might believe it if I saw it but we both know better
Ok, the tape measure thing...OMG!!! I'm subscribing to your channel just because of that. Genius!!!
I have heard many, many, many times to never let go of your tape measure so that it retracts and slams the end. Over time it will elongate the holes on the tip and the tape measure would no longer be accurate. I stop the retraction before it slams in and hold the tape so it finishes retracting easily.
True, you can always slow it down with your thumb... unless you're trying to be dramatic!
guyontheblackchair The tab on the end of a standard tape measure has to float 1/16 of an inch. Which is the exact thickness of the tab that one hooks the end of a tape measure to the end of a board to measure for a cut. If one needs to measure the width of a door opening, the outside of the tab is placed on the inside of the opening. The tab slides toward the case of the tape measure. The tab is actually the first 1/16 of an inch of the opening.
It aint science of the rocket is it lamfao bill morris you are just too sharp for most folk knowing secrets like this will get you disposed of! ;^)@@billmorris2613
the last one is 999 IQ
thanks for that ,keep up the great work
Haha! Thanks man!
Those are a bunch of great tips
Thanks man! Just gotta spread the tips around to everyone!
Great video and tips, I've been a pro woodworker for 25 years and have taped joints together many times. Here is my tip, try using clear 2" packing tap instead of blue. I think it works better. You need to start with the glue side down and the edges of the joint aligned and touching. Put packing tape on the wood and roll it with a laminate rolling tool, this helps with adhesion. Turn the project over and glue. To seal the final joint, use long strips of tape horizontally to the joint, (90 degrees). Here is the best part, packing tape stretches, so put one end a good distance from the joint, secure it well then stretch the tape over the joint seam and attach around the other side. This will act very nicely as a strong clamp.
So many good applications with this tape, especially when nails are not an option.
Thank you, and keep the tips coming.
That's a great one! I've used packing tape for epoxy but haven't tried it like that.
Letting the tape snap back can loosen the riveted hook (making it less accurate), and can eventually break the rivets or tape. You also risk having the edge of the tape cut you.
True if you do it a ton. I usually release it slowly, but doing it fast makes it so much more dramatic!
It took over a decade for the tip to tear off on my Stanley. I was bummed when it finally failed.
Steve Ramsey just did a test where he snapped the tape measure 10,000 times before it broke
That tape measure trick is pretty neat. I`ll have to try that out. It took me a long time to make a cross cut sled too but OH MAN!!!! Do i ever love it now that i do have it. Get around to it my friend. You will be very happy that you did; especiall when it comes to cross cutting larger pieces.
Don't let your tape snap back hard it will start to wear out the holes that hold the tip on making your tape measure less accurate over time. You can also check your tapes against each other from time to time to make sure they all read the same.
What about Callum B's reference to Steve Ramsay? Any truth to it?
That's why three are Brakes ! On it !
Excellent strategies.I liked all of your ideas with the use of blue tape. Your are very creative. I’m Leslie Berry from Berry’s custom cabinets.
Hi Leslie! I'm glad you liked it!
There’s a problem with letting go of your tape measure like that. After doing that a few times your tape is no longer accurate. The holes where the end is riveted on get wallowed out and you’ll notice a difference. The difference is especially noticeable between the “inside” and “outside” readings.
The end is supposed to slide on those rivets, the holes are slots. Letting it free spool back into itself can damage the slots and increase the length of the outside measurements.
Just want to clarify since some people think the hook is supposed to be stationary and they hammer the rivets.
Yep, I was going to comment the same thing about damaging the end of the tape measure.
Some times the monetary increase in efficiency is worth far more than the cost of a new tape measure.
Plus there are some tape measures I have seen that have a shock absorbing material that prevents the end of the tape measure from slamming to a stop just for that reason. Does not mean that distortion due to impact damage will not happen but it will take a lot longer before the tape measure needs to be replaced.
Like all things, it is a balancing act between profit and cost. In this case it will mean far more extra profit than the cost of a new tape and the old tape can still be easily used where great accuracy is not necessary, like framing walls and assembling beams that will probably be trimmed and planed before installation anyway.
th-cam.com/video/z9En0WAsP8A/w-d-xo.html
Steve from woodworking for mere mortals doesn't agree.
Steve Ramsey (Woodworking for Mere Mortals) tested this recently. He let a tape slap back thousands of times. It did not affect the accuracy.
Tape measure idea....GREAT, almost a life changer ! Now what idea do you have for being able to read the tape measure so it's not backwards ?
There are tape measures that do read the other direction. I have a Lee Valley 10' cabinetmakers tape (For Righthanders) Guessing Fastcap would probably have them too.
here is a tip Don't wear a ring....
Or a necklace, hoodie with drawstrings, necktie, sleeves or loose long hair.
Why not? There’s nothing to get it caught on. I’ve been wearing a wedding ring for over 50 years and haven’t had an issue yet. You’re probably one of those SawStop guy’s thats afraid of the blade.
Never though I’d comment on a TH-cam video but my god I was degloved 3 years ago my ring got caught in a brad nail that was sitting proud of the molding on my garage vertical beams, I was running to shut the breaker off and glided my hand on the pillar as a passed by and then it was a wrap man. My finger stayed my body kept moving forward
I really enjoyed your blue tape tricks. One I would like to share that comes in handy is to put blue tape on a surface before you draw you layout lines. Such as on a surface you don’t want to mar, then dill through marked locations on tape and remove afterwards. Thanks again for your helpful hints.
That's a great tip!
I do that a lot but find it difficult to see pencil marks on the blue tape. I use the light green tape for marking. Much easier to see.
Or use a different colored lead in a mechanical pencil to make it stand out more against the blue. I have red and black, looking for white for my favorite pencil but no luck so far. May have to buy one of those "expensive" ones that use a "holster"... Ugh! $$
The tapering jig blew my mind. Thank you thank you.
SO glad I found this channel...!! Learned do much so far.!!
Thanks! I'm glad you like it
That last tip is gold. Thank you.
How simple things can make a difference! Love your style!
Thank you!
Love the 'leave it attached' tape advice ! I'll do that from now on .... here in New Zealand.
Thanks for letting me know where you're from! It always makes it fun to see where people are commenting from.
The last one with the tape measure still hooked on your pocket, as silly as it sounds it actually works a treat in practice ;)
Yeah I end up doing that a lot... I usually don't let it slam back in though!
I would love to see your workshop and how you have built your tool storage.
Thanks! I have a playlist with the shop tour and the build videos for most of the stuff in my shop: th-cam.com/play/PLV-F3MjIQnNTiXMDdZkuRm5MEHMzGMEFl.html
I’ve been leaving my tape measure on my belt forever. Sometimes I get teased about it but it works great. I thought I was the only one who did that. Love it! 👍
Haha it's a great trick and you don't lose it all the time!
@@EveningWoodworker I do go through a lot of blades because I’m bending it most of the time but it’s so convenient. Nice video!
LOL I l absolutely oved that tape measure tip. Thanks for sharing those tips with us. Carl
Good tips. I prefer the green Frog Tape brand. It is just a little stickier, but still not to sticky.
Frog tape is definitely better. And you will pay a premium. But I only go through a roll or 2 a year so it’s worth it. And the plastic container stops dirt from sticking to the side of the tape.
YESS!!!! I've been doing that with my tape measure for so long! I have a 6ft tape measure on a keyring attached to my hip all the time, I never lose it.
I keep several tape measurers with magnets on them around the shop. they live on the stand or table leg of whatever piece of equipment or bench I am working on. Always handy and always goes back where it came from..... mostly! LOL I do love the Idea of just pulling the tape out and letting it retract all by itself.
Thanks for sharing have a blessed day
Ah, the good old WorkSharp 2000 hack... love the concave shelves for it! Wonderful video, thank you, new subscriber here.
Years ago I remember a carpenter measuring with a tape just like you demonstrated. As a kid, I thought that was odd behavior so I quickly forgot about it. That was over 50 years ago, Wow! Thanks. I love the tape idea of cutting the same odd shapes on many boards. Excellent info.
Thanks! Glad you liked it
Good morning to all from SE Louisiana 21 Jun 22.
Leaving the tape measure connected is Brilliant! Thanks!
Tape measure tip… MIND BLOWN!
That tape measure trick is genius in its simplicity!
I literally was just using a similar taping method for angled cuts yesterday, yours is clearly better.
Also keeping the tape on your belt, blew my mind.
Thanks!
I like the leave it on your belt trick. and yes it did explode my mind. the simplest tricks usually do. but I never let the spring in the tape reel it in too hard. over time the tape will be off. thanks.
Nice, just the taper and small crosscut made it worthwhile. Thx
Glad it helped!
Hey, those were some good tips. We have bunch of upcoming projects ahead and many skills to learn. Thanks 👍
Thank you for good tips, have wodd Day greetings from Norway
There are lots of these types of videos but this was good.... And quick not drawn out to 30 minutes 😊👍
Thanks!
This is great. Do you have a workshop set up video?
Yes I do! th-cam.com/video/5yuq34HQAdc/w-d-xo.html
“Leave it connected” - mind blown.
TY
I like the tape measure trick. Saves time and you don't forget and leave it on the saw when you are trying to measure a cut in the closet...
I am not a woodworker, just a diy guy for fixing, repairing and building things at home.
But your tips are helpful, thanx.
Some of these are simply brilliant!
A very informative video. The only caveat that I could see is that you made the number 1 mistake many in the woodworking field do that results in premature tape measure failure (breaking of the tape where the rivets to the end clip are fastened). When letting in the tape after its use in the extended position, use your finger as a drag on the bottom of the tape to slow the retrieval down and then let the clip bump into your finger before it's fully retracted. I haven't had to replace a tape very often using this technique, only after years of use when it finally wears out. Keep up the good videos... Been at it for almost 50 years... Kim
Yeah that's my preferred way, but it was so much more dramatic on video like this!
Ok I didn’t care about any of this (stuff I already do)…. Until the last one THAT BLEW MY MIND!!!! Great tip!!! I will never admit to knowing everything and that’s why I always watch these types of videos, well done. Always stay learning!!
Woohoo! I'm glad it helped!
The sander gizmo is awesome . Thank you
Thank you so much for saying the word "hack"!
Amen to the temp/humidity gauge. Unless your shop is really big, a small dehumidifier makes a huge difference and they're not expensive. No more warped wood or rust on your tools is priceless.
@JmeUS Good question! Exhause not needed! In air-conditioned shops, humidity is usually not a problem in summer. The AC is a dehumidifier in itself. My shop usually runs 45-55% RH all summer without the dehumidifier. In winter, not so bad either. Spring and Fall are when I need my dehumidifier most because the AC is not running much. If your shop is big or not well closed in, I suppose the AC may not be enough. Hope that helps!
Okay, the tape measure tip is awesome. I knew most of the others. Good job m8.