And the magic advice that feels like cheating is get good tools and set everything up appropriately. I'd say I'm mildly irritated. I mean, as irritated as one can get after clicking clickbait
There are two ways the blade can be out of square on a table saw. Either the plane of the saw cut is not aligned with the mitre slot - OR - the saw blade does not run square against the arbour, that is it might have a wobble. It is important to check for both, especially if you have an older table saw or are using cheaper blades. Checking both factors is similar but subtly different. To check the first, mark a spot on the blade and check that spot both as far forward and as far back as possible. To check the second, keep the dial indicator in the same spot fore or aft, and rotate the blade to see if there is a wobble. While the dial indicator is on the saw table we may as well check both factors. The 44.9 trick is always good. One other tip is that if you are cutting mitres in hardwood the piece often will shift under the pressure of the blade pushing against it (either that or the blade bows as it gets into the meat of the cut. I kind of suspect that really). I once got a very slight bulge on the mitre face in hard Maple. Only when I started clamping the pieces down firmly on my sled and used a freshly sharpened blade with a slow cut did that go away. It seems that neither hand pressure or a stop are firm enough. (I guess I am OCD when it comes to getting those mitres right :) ) Thanks for the great videos. Keep it up.
Thanks for the tip of clamping down. I had that happen a lot on my contractor saw - so I think your right about the blade bowing. And that's a really good tip to check the arbor as well. Im going to do that.
There may be another dimension to adjust on your table saw. Once the blade is aligned with the miter slot, angle the blade to 45 degrees. Then cut a 45 on a a wider board, and push completely through. If there is a secondary cut off the back side of the blade, then the table needs to be tilted back to front. Check both miter slots. Insert shims on the bolts holding the table down, typically on the front side. When there is minimal saw dust raising from the back of the blade, it's in tune. Hope that makes sense. Happy woodworking.
I learned that 45 years ago. My dad's saw had that bad. Unlike the other adjustments it isn't something that is provided for in the build of the saw. So it requires shims. I guess some saws are made accurately enough that it doesn't mater, but it caused smoke on our delta 9"
How to actually, with any saw: - Cut a piece of scrap in two. - Flip the offcut and cut it again, removing the edge that you cut first. Now both pieces of scrap have the same angle. - Put the two pieces together against a straight edge to make a straight line. - Did it fit? Profit. - Did itn't fit? Adjust the saw and start again. You can use whatever you want (a square, an electronic meter, a cardboard box, your intuition etc.) to get it close to begin with, but the method for actually getting it right is always the same.
But also remember that wood isn't as straight as a metal square, so calibrating your saw with this method could actually make it less true. Your calibration would be specific to any minor warp in the board you just used to calibrate it.
I would use the wood cutting method as more of a sanity check to make sure my calibration with a dial indicator, square, angle finder, etc was working for me.
@@FMunixxx If the scrap is bent enough that you can't use this method with confidence, you're looking at the wrong side of the dowel. :p In seriousness, a bend won't affect it, because you're looking for an angle at the join, not a gradual curve. You're not relying on wood being straight, you're relying on a straight edge being straight, which by definition, it is. The part of the wood that you're gauging with the straight edge is the point where the two cuts meet. Points can't be bent, so you're good.
@@Meevious The gap in the joint is only telling if each half of the board is in the same reference plane both before and after the cut. However, unless we've planed and jointed the initial board to high precision and there's been no change in humidity since, each half is not going to be in the same plane after being cut. We see this in practice when we cut a bowed board into numerous smaller pieces to flatten it. Our bevel could be exactly 0 degrees on our miter saw and we'd still see gaps when butting together all the pieces on a flat table. We can't use these observed gap to infer that our 0 bevel is inaccurate.
Dear Swede, thanks so much for this video. As somewhat of a newbie I appreciate the dialogue and process you went through to get the results you ended up with. Your detail are beneficial to someone like me! Thank again!
Enjoyed the video and attention to detail, including tips on checking for square. The 8:22 flew by in what felt like 5 seconds. The photography and editing were top notch. And I find your voice/accent soothing for some reason. Subscribed.
I’m really enjoying your channel. I don’t think I’ll ever make such a charging station, but that’s ok. I like seeing the tools used, how they’re used, and different techniques. I also like hearing different folks describe things. Different people different explanations added together usually enhances understanding. Like the first comment about the wrong angle. I right away understood the error of the comment. Frame of reference is always important. The discussion helped bring that out. Thank you for another great episode. I know we are in a very global culture these days where we are becoming more unified, but if there are any unique Swedish woodworking styles, tools, or processes, I’d love to learn about them.
TH-cam put this in my feed and I'm grateful. I just got a table saw and never thought about about any of this. Getting miters and cuts perfect has never been my strong point but I aim to fix that. Thanks
Thanks, great advice. There is something we call in Switzerland and maybe generally "fixing something to death" This is a translation in Swiss German it sounds much better. I made a box with miters.. There were ugly as .. I was so angry I cut off the corners with another 45 and glued new wood to the corners. Which then of course looked like an accident. 12 hours later "fixing something to death" the box ended up in the stove.. I am very happy for your videos - shortening my learning cycle by copying good practice ;-)
I am a beginner an amateur in woodworking but i think the problem starts at 5:07, when you start tillting the blade. Experienced woodworkers recomends to leave the blade vertical and build a sled that will hold the material to 45 degrees (or 44,9). You have all my admiration for this video, i like very much the way you tell the story. Thanks and good luck.
That would be good for certain things, like picture frames for instance. If your cutting wider pieces of wood your dependent on the blade height. The way I make it you can cut - theoretically as wide as you want. Thanks for watching!
@@TheSwedishMaker thanks for your answer, i'm talking about something like this: th-cam.com/users/shortsj_R7QfT8ZIg th-cam.com/video/2oDl6hfBlR8/w-d-xo.html cheers
Excellent advice. Personally I prefer the 45 triangle over the digital reader as I’ve found them to be non-repeatable. So, if you’re really serious or you’re using 500 dollars in walnut on your miter, use a triangle and throw away the digital angle finder.
@@angellas.1314 Generally speaking no. Using a triangle I trust, I know it's going to be 45. That said, I have on occasion left a small gap at the bottom to use the trick in this video. If you use the digital scale, you should always use the trick.
I use a digital every day and it's always been dead on. But that's the difference between a $5 angle finder and a $50 angle finder. You get what you pay for...
The other secret is: When the blade is tilted, it pulls the workpiece sideways, tending to throw off the bevel. This is even a bigger problem with miters. My miter gauge has holes allowing me to screw in a larger back-stop. If that back-stop has a strip of high-grit sand-paper glued to it, then the added friction from the sandpaper solves the problem.
Fantastic, I will try all the suggestions. I've been plagued with bad mitered joints ever since I started woodworking many, many moons ago. I like your idea for the charging station too.
So thankful that you specifically mentioned this can be done not just on the one tool you displayed in the video but others. So many times I watch a how to video and they show only one tool and never explain or show if the skill they are demonstrating can be done with other tools. Thank you!! 😊
Looks like it's factory-dyed MDF, there are several brands available - Black Diamond, Valchromat, and a few others. It's a bit pricey - project size pieces of 3/4" are $7 to $10/sf. I guess full sheets will be a little more reasonably priced but a quick google search didn't turn up a definitive price for that
That was really wonderful to watch! I struggle with miters on non-box items so much that I simply don't bother trying to make boxes at all (my frames/boxes always come out looking shoddy). So thanks! I'll give your tips a go!
I want to sing praises for the band clamps at 6:22. I have one, I use it to make picture frames. It does a great job every time. I tried other techniques, (90 degree clamps) this one is easiest, cheapest, and gets better results than ALL of them
Again a very cool video. So it is all about setting up the saw correctly. I have learned to take a closer look at my own setup and to give this extra 0.1° to get a closed miter at the edge 😉 Thanks for that.
I imagine wood filling and/or wood glue on the inner ends will help with providing strength to it. Staples also help give extra support. I make stretch boards for paintings, and also the frame. With the frame I need to be more accurate, however this is an eloquent solution for stretch boards. Thank you.
Lots of respect to you for committing to a response for each comment. I've not seen anyone else do this in my TH-cam experience. Excellent video as well. I like how clearly laid out the video is and compliments the voice over. It is clear you put much time and effort into your video. I've just subscribed! 👍
Good advice! As an experiment I tried doing white primed architraves but exaggerated and even they fill much nicer with the internal gap rather than the external gap. I then decided I'd set up my saw precisely for any subsequent mitres that would be visible. Much better results!
A very well explained video for all to enjoy. Something I would add to the discussion around cutting a 45 degree angle is an error in measuring that creates the need to go "just past" 45 degrees. The digital device used for measuring angles is displaying the angle created between the table saw surface and blade-body instead of between the table saw surface and blade-teeth. As shown in the video, the blade would need to rotate an additional small amount to account for how the teeth extend past the blade-body. At the same time, a small right-angle was shown on the underside of the blade, leaving a gap at the bottom. Instead of focusing on the gap, a speed square with a 45 degree side can be used to have the blade-teeth just kiss the 45 degree side as they pass by, insuring the underside (or left side, as shown in the video) is now set to 45 degrees at the plane of rotation for the teeth. Both sides should, in theory, then be set to 45 degrees at that point; but, as we often see, where theory meets reality there is frequently a gap, and hence the need for videos like this to help close that gap physically and geometrically. Thank you!
I just discovered your channel, and now I am filled with an overpowering desire to go obsess over the straightness of my table saw blade. I was gonna watch more of your videos, but now I won't have time... guess I'll have to sub and come back later! All kidding aside, I appreciate the video and advice. Keep it up!
Absolutely loved watching this video! First time finding your channel, and you covered so many things I'm interested in (woodworking, table saw, precision, 3D Printing, charing stations!). Subscribed straight away, and am looking forward to checking out your other vids. Great work (and nicely filmed!)
If you have a jobsite tablesaw such as the Dewalt DW745 you might notice the miter slots aren't even, they vary in width from front to back, the top surface isn't flat and although you can make some adjustments it's never going to be spot on. Which is why measuring the results of the cut (along with sleds) rather than measuring the machine might be a better approach. Deflection though is still something to consider, depending on density of material. Because of these sort of issues and not having a cabinet saw I've started to cut mine by hand. Thanks for the vid!
Great video, if I can offer some comments... 1/10,000 of and inch is 0.0025mm 🙂. When you kept the dial gauge still and spun the blade, you were actually checking if the blade ran "true" (didn't wobble). I'm thinking you should have slid the gauge (whilst it was in the track) across the face of the blade to check that the blade is parallel to the track. Very well presented 👍
Good observation, but I'm guessing that he has already done that, and that in his mind everyone one else has done that already as well when they set up their saws. That's the first thing that I do, so I think that he just wants to check for blade wobble which can happen when you overheat/overuse a blade. I actually thought he was going to build a miter sled which takes care of the issues that most have with them. Instead he built a friggin charging station :-)
Tough question. It might be a recent thing I made with my daughter - it's only posted on my instagram - but we made a bird house together. Thanks a lot!
Negative comments here blow my mind... Someone has taken the time and effort to put together a video for free to try help others. It shows more shows a lot more than the slight over setting of the angle. And as a bonus you get to see another woodworker's workflow and approach to a task, which if you enjoy woodwork is always interesting and informative. Nice work!
First video of yours that has come up for me and I very much like the method of presentation. I’ll watch a couple more and subscribe. I’ve been woodworking since way before you were born (I’d say I’ve been serious for over 45 years but it’s probably nearer 60 since I first tried the hobby). Everything but everything has changed in that time except for the mental attributes of patience and precision. A couple of points. Firstly, I don’t trust those angle cubes to be that accurate, I think they state plus or minus 0.2 degrees? Anyway, I might be nuts but I will either use 2 different cubes and hope the average is accurate or test cut. Secondly, I always use an auxiliary, sacrificial fence to back up the piece I’m cutting so that the “off it” doesn’t vary from the desired angle by falling away. Necessary? I think so but I’m not taking the chance!
Great video, I never thought of under cutting the 45 at 44.9. Make it easier because usually you will not see the inside corner up close. Thanks for sharing.
Too many commenters are always trying to tear other woodworkers down. Why are you here if it's just to clown on someone else who's just trying to help others?
Sorry to tell you this, but you've gone the wrong way. By going under 45 degrees you will have an opening on the outside of the mitre. You always cut mitres at around 45.5 degrees ish, not 44.9 degrees, this way at 45.5 degrees the outside of the mitre will be touching and the inside may have an extremely tiny gap. You increase the angle to close the outside of the mitre, not decrease.
Well if you measure 44.9° from the outside edge then you get a closed outside corner. (This is true, if you disagree you're misunderstanding me) All depends on your reference, no?
I think we both mean the same thing. The way I have it set up with the angle gauge and the table saw - it's in reverse - thats why I think I said "go a bit further than 45". It measures away from the blade.
You're shifting the flaw (gap) to the unseen edge. Smart. I would also add that when you're checking the table saw blade keep in mind that when the motor is running the blade tends to move away from the motor (known as End Play / Run Out), you can measure this with a dial indicator and adjust your cuts to account for it.
5:41 you fine tune it with a dovetail saw, then perfect it with a shooting board. Wile table saws and power tools are a nice way to get you in the ballpark, all the adjustments you make on the table saw do not correct blade deflection and runout. Even machinist have to fine tune the last cut. If your splitting hairs you need tools that can split hairs.
Thanks! I think Ill make a shooting board in the future!
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As a DIY man, I've done plenty of rough work and have been able to cover things up. Lately I've been building a little more meticulous items and this video came at the right time. I'll start working with the current hand tools I have around the shop, but I'll probably keep the pencil trick in my hat...or behind the ear... or that triangle in the workshop that seems to suck every other tool I'm looking for...
Precisely. Its hard to sand the inside corners. Might be a bot easier on mdf but usually you have gran running towards the other miter and you cant really sand all the way to the edge
Every comment?!?! That's awesome mate! Oh, and so is your presentation. I kinda thought that's the fix you were aiming at, but you really did present in a highly creative and informational way. Well done!
There's an additional thing to be careful of when using the digital miter gauge to help tilt the blade to 45° (or 49.9°), one which is a bit hard to describe. I think (but am not sure) that the angle of tilt would be inaccurate if the gauge is twisted with respect to the blade, by not being placed on the blade so the long axis of the gauge lies along (or parallel to) the radius line of the blade extending from the center of the blade to its highest point above the tablesaw top. (Imagine tilting the gauge back when it's on the table saw top, then attaching it to the vertical blade in the same orientation. This would throw off the angle measurement when the blade is tilted.) There is bound to be a clearer way of describing the issue than what I just gave though!
I just use my 1953 Dewalt 14” radial Arm saw. Set the arm to 45 degrees, and cut one side of the miter against the fence to the right of the blade. Then I put a 90 degree fence jig against the fence on the left side of the blade and cut the other mitre on that side with the stock against the 90 degree fence. Because I am cutting either side against the same blade setting, it does not even matter if the arm is out of calibration a degree or two, the left side of the miter will be wider by exactly the same amount the right side is narrow or vice versa… and ALWAYS add up to a perfect 90 as long as the 90 degree fence jig I made is a true 90 degrees. BTW this trick will work for ANY set of repeating mitre angles you need to make by just creating a fence jig that will accurately be the angle you want the two mitre cuts to add up to. Just get the radial’s arm angle close to the halfway angle for appearances sake and this method cuts perfect miters every time.
Great video and awesome advice. Additionally, I love your shop aesthetic / style, so clean and sharp looking with the dark accents. How long did it take you to get your shop space to look this good?
Did it with an ol' makita circular saw this week at dead 45. I think the tight painters tape is the one that actually did the job. And the str8 edge I was using, naturally.
My approach always gets me perfect miters and my thought is why depend on resetting the saw angle. Leave the saw at a perfect 90 and don’t mess with it. I built a 45 degree sled that runs in the track instead. Clamps hold the work in place. I’ve never had a bad miter and no fiddling with the saw angle.
I am curious how to achieve the same result on the sliding mitre saw. Please advise. It is very tough to get an angle of 44.9 deg. Accurately and repeatedly.
In germany and other EU countries, the table saw have a setup where the fence ad the backside of the blade is wider than at the front of your blade. This is there to procent back kick when the stock you saw pinches the blade at the backside. Also the cutting is done at the fronside of the blade. The only thing you should adjust is, if the fence at the backside is getting narrower than the front. What you REALY need is the blade front running 90 degre to the fence. And the 44,9 backcut.
Can folks really not figure this out on their own? If you’ve got a table saw, a chop box, christ if you even know what a miter cut is, then you should probably have enough curiosity and ambition to try a few different angles. Good video though man.
I havent actually started it up again since moving. There's been to much to do. Im not sure at this point If I will start it up again. thank for watching!
I suppose it kind of depends how your digital angle gauge handles rounding. When it goes from 90 to 45, is 45 actually 45.000° or could it be 45.049? Perhaps going 90 to 44.9 then up to 45 will actually be correct way to do it?
I actually haven't tried that, but I will for sure. It might depend on the angle gauge somewhat and therefor - the mitre gauge might be the easiest way of getting slightly less than a 45 degree mitre.
At 6:32 I can see that you taped the inside corners, is that done to ensure that the glue squeeze out can be removed by pulling the tape away? Ingenious trick
you got it. glue squeeze out on the inside is harder to get out and the tape can just be removed - especially useful for hard wood where it gets really hard to sand with the grain on the inside of a box
Long mitres work so well with the track saw as the weight is all on the product. Or a clamp down jig for the panel saw. Either way you are spot on by having a tiny gap on the inside. The way I see it is that it’s somewhere for the glue to go so it doesn’t force the front out
How do you find the power on that table saw? Does it bog down at all? I have the fusion 2 110V and it is horribly underpowered! Also, very nice video:)
I have my dad's old saw at the cottage. He always ran it with a 3/4 HP motor. We had a flood and it killed the motor. This year the only motor I had around was a Leason 1/2 hp motor off the mini lathe. It is a substantial motor in size, but still only rated at 1/2 HP. Took everything I pushed at it, which did not include 3" hard maple. Some stuff will require lots of power, but for the stuff I was doing around the shop this summer, it was no big deal. Conversely, if the 3HP motor I had on my General 10 inch wasn't happy it could throw a block with enough force to kill you. 1.5 HP is a good compromise.
So funny we in the prefinished trim installation industry (cabinet and hardwood trim installation have been over cutting outside corners and under cutting inside corners for years One reason is to keep the outside edge tight when the wood changes due to drying out.
Great video thank you. One thing I want to check at 5:30. The audio said reset the angle to 0 but the video shows it starting at 90. One way round would mean setting the blade to 50.1 and the other 49.9. I could use trial and error, but would rather get it right first time.
yes the audio was a bit delayed to what was happening. first reset to 0 when the gauge is at the flat surface of the table. Then place it on the blade. Now it starts from 90 degrees and you can take it down to 44.9. Otherwise it would have been 45.1
If you deliberately introduce a gap to the joint aren’t you significantly reducing the strength of the joint because the two surfaces will not fully touch each other because of the deliberate gap???? Please respond if I am incorrect
You would find using Mylar packing tape on the corner is a better solution especially on long miters. Its main advantage is it does not stretch. The downside is it may pull some grain and require additional sanding. 3m 375 is the preferred tape professionally. Good luck!
Great, and very timely (for me) tip, as I am in the process of making several new projects that require using a 45° miter! However, a few of them will have both the outside and inside corners visible... Any good tips on how to make both edges as tight as possible? I know I'm 4 months late on seeing this video, but I'm still hoping that you'll keep answering all questions as you stated 🤣
I liked it. And, the precision of the angles is really important if you do want to make highly precise miter cuts. So, I did not find it too long for the issues involved. Thanks!
Burnishing the edge ia fine for moulding, but it only works on the edge and not the face. Plus.. in cabinetry we expect a bit more than trim carpentry, thats really only a step above framers anyway.
If you do mitres with a mitre saw the cut piece doesn't slide into the blade and problem is solved. Tablesaw requires grip on both pieces, that's tricky. With mitresaw you can just secure it down on both ends.
I just learned from Jonathan Katz Moses, who learned this from Stumpy Noob, to cut the mitres on a router table using a 45 degree router bit (making sure it is big enough for the thickness of your material). Going to try this the next time I need mitred corners.
Great video. Very informative. My only question is, when squaring the miter guage it seems to me it would improve accuracy if all angles were set from the same reference point. Since the miter slot is immovable, it makes more sense to set your 90 from there to avoid compounding misalignment between the guage and the blade.
You are 100% correct, tweeterfire. Another thing that can go wrong checking against the blade is that sawblades are not exactly flat. That is the reason we choose a single spot on the blade to indicate against when adjusting the parallelism of the miter slots to the blade. So much easier to set the gauge with your most accurate square tucked against the bar and the fence, tighten and you are done.
Dear Swede, this was a masterclass in how to stretch 5 seconds of advice into 8 minutes and 22 seconds without irritating your audience too much. :-)
Thank you! If someone says masterclas Im proud 😃
I appreciate the lack of a long drawn out introduction or constant repetition which often seems to be a common thing with US TH-camrs.
There's so much irony here I dont know where to start
@@TheSwedishMakerhaters gotta hate bud, leave ‘em to it
And the magic advice that feels like cheating is get good tools and set everything up appropriately. I'd say I'm mildly irritated. I mean, as irritated as one can get after clicking clickbait
There are two ways the blade can be out of square on a table saw. Either the plane of the saw cut is not aligned with the mitre slot - OR - the saw blade does not run square against the arbour, that is it might have a wobble. It is important to check for both, especially if you have an older table saw or are using cheaper blades.
Checking both factors is similar but subtly different.
To check the first, mark a spot on the blade and check that spot both as far forward and as far back as possible.
To check the second, keep the dial indicator in the same spot fore or aft, and rotate the blade to see if there is a wobble. While the dial indicator is on the saw table we may as well check both factors.
The 44.9 trick is always good.
One other tip is that if you are cutting mitres in hardwood the piece often will shift under the pressure of the blade pushing against it (either that or the blade bows as it gets into the meat of the cut. I kind of suspect that really). I once got a very slight bulge on the mitre face in hard Maple. Only when I started clamping the pieces down firmly on my sled and used a freshly sharpened blade with a slow cut did that go away. It seems that neither hand pressure or a stop are firm enough. (I guess I am OCD when it comes to getting those mitres right :) )
Thanks for the great videos. Keep it up.
Thanks for the tip of clamping down. I had that happen a lot on my contractor saw - so I think your right about the blade bowing. And that's a really good tip to check the arbor as well. Im going to do that.
There may be another dimension to adjust on your table saw. Once the blade is aligned with the miter slot, angle the blade to 45 degrees. Then cut a 45 on a a wider board, and push completely through. If there is a secondary cut off the back side of the blade, then the table needs to be tilted back to front. Check both miter slots. Insert shims on the bolts holding the table down, typically on the front side. When there is minimal saw dust raising from the back of the blade, it's in tune.
Hope that makes sense. Happy woodworking.
Thanks a lot for that tip! I will check that directly.
I learned that 45 years ago. My dad's saw had that bad. Unlike the other adjustments it isn't something that is provided for in the build of the saw. So it requires shims. I guess some saws are made accurately enough that it doesn't mater, but it caused smoke on our delta 9"
5:55 the rest is clickbait
How to actually, with any saw:
- Cut a piece of scrap in two.
- Flip the offcut and cut it again, removing the edge that you cut first. Now both pieces of scrap have the same angle.
- Put the two pieces together against a straight edge to make a straight line.
- Did it fit? Profit.
- Did itn't fit? Adjust the saw and start again.
You can use whatever you want (a square, an electronic meter, a cardboard box, your intuition etc.) to get it close to begin with, but the method for actually getting it right is always the same.
Nice tip!
But also remember that wood isn't as straight as a metal square, so calibrating your saw with this method could actually make it less true. Your calibration would be specific to any minor warp in the board you just used to calibrate it.
I would use the wood cutting method as more of a sanity check to make sure my calibration with a dial indicator, square, angle finder, etc was working for me.
@@FMunixxx
If the scrap is bent enough that you can't use this method with confidence, you're looking at the wrong side of the dowel. :p
In seriousness, a bend won't affect it, because you're looking for an angle at the join, not a gradual curve.
You're not relying on wood being straight, you're relying on a straight edge being straight, which by definition, it is.
The part of the wood that you're gauging with the straight edge is the point where the two cuts meet.
Points can't be bent, so you're good.
@@Meevious The gap in the joint is only telling if each half of the board is in the same reference plane both before and after the cut. However, unless we've planed and jointed the initial board to high precision and there's been no change in humidity since, each half is not going to be in the same plane after being cut. We see this in practice when we cut a bowed board into numerous smaller pieces to flatten it. Our bevel could be exactly 0 degrees on our miter saw and we'd still see gaps when butting together all the pieces on a flat table. We can't use these observed gap to infer that our 0 bevel is inaccurate.
Dear Swede, thanks so much for this video. As somewhat of a newbie I appreciate the dialogue and process you went through to get the results you ended up with. Your detail are beneficial to someone like me! Thank again!
Hey! Thanks a lot!
Enjoyed the video and attention to detail, including tips on checking for square. The 8:22 flew by in what felt like 5 seconds. The photography and editing were top notch. And I find your voice/accent soothing for some reason. Subscribed.
I’m really enjoying your channel. I don’t think I’ll ever make such a charging station, but that’s ok. I like seeing the tools used, how they’re used, and different techniques. I also like hearing different folks describe things. Different people different explanations added together usually enhances understanding. Like the first comment about the wrong angle. I right away understood the error of the comment. Frame of reference is always important. The discussion helped bring that out. Thank you for another great episode. I know we are in a very global culture these days where we are becoming more unified, but if there are any unique Swedish woodworking styles, tools, or processes, I’d love to learn about them.
Thanks a lot! Totally appreciate it. I´ll think about if there are any special Swedish styles, tools or processes - thats a really good idea.
I’m with you there!
TH-cam put this in my feed and I'm grateful. I just got a table saw and never thought about about any of this. Getting miters and cuts perfect has never been my strong point but I aim to fix that. Thanks
nice! Glad it helped!
Thanks, great advice. There is something we call in Switzerland and maybe generally "fixing something to death" This is a translation in Swiss German it sounds much better. I made a box with miters.. There were ugly as .. I was so angry I cut off the corners with another 45 and glued new wood to the corners. Which then of course looked like an accident. 12 hours later "fixing something to death" the box ended up in the stove.. I am very happy for your videos - shortening my learning cycle by copying good practice ;-)
thanks a lot! Sorry about your miters ending up in the stove.
🤣🤣🤣
5:40 Essentially set your blade to 44.9° rather than 45°. Hopefully that saved y’all some time 👍
I am a beginner an amateur in woodworking but i think the problem starts at 5:07, when you start tillting the blade. Experienced woodworkers recomends to leave the blade vertical and build a sled that will hold the material to 45 degrees (or 44,9). You have all my admiration for this video, i like very much the way you tell the story. Thanks and good luck.
That would be good for certain things, like picture frames for instance. If your cutting wider pieces of wood your dependent on the blade height. The way I make it you can cut - theoretically as wide as you want. Thanks for watching!
@@TheSwedishMaker thanks for your answer, i'm talking about something like this:
th-cam.com/users/shortsj_R7QfT8ZIg
th-cam.com/video/2oDl6hfBlR8/w-d-xo.html
cheers
tldr, you can never get a perfect 45°. So take a bit extra off the inside to mitigate the chance of leaving a crack on the external corner
Excellent advice. Personally I prefer the 45 triangle over the digital reader as I’ve found them to be non-repeatable. So, if you’re really serious or you’re using 500 dollars in walnut on your miter, use a triangle and throw away the digital angle finder.
Fair enough!
And do you leave the gap as he showed?
@@angellas.1314 Generally speaking no. Using a triangle I trust, I know it's going to be 45. That said, I have on occasion left a small gap at the bottom to use the trick in this video. If you use the digital scale, you should always use the trick.
I use a digital every day and it's always been dead on. But that's the difference between a $5 angle finder and a $50 angle finder. You get what you pay for...
The other secret is: When the blade is tilted, it pulls the workpiece sideways, tending to throw off the bevel. This is even a bigger problem with miters. My miter gauge has holes allowing me to screw in a larger back-stop. If that back-stop has a strip of high-grit sand-paper glued to it, then the added friction from the sandpaper solves the problem.
Why so unhappy?
Fantastic, I will try all the suggestions. I've been plagued with bad mitered joints ever since I started woodworking many, many moons ago. I like your idea for the charging station too.
So thankful that you specifically mentioned this can be done not just on the one tool you displayed in the video but others. So many times I watch a how to video and they show only one tool and never explain or show if the skill they are demonstrating can be done with other tools. Thank you!! 😊
Hey! Thanks a lot!
The fix is at exactly 5:46
you sure do use a lot of youtube filler though
thank you
Fine video. One question -- what is the material you're using? Is is blacked yes wood, or something else? In the video it almost looks like ebony.
Looks like it's factory-dyed MDF, there are several brands available - Black Diamond, Valchromat, and a few others. It's a bit pricey - project size pieces of 3/4" are $7 to $10/sf.
I guess full sheets will be a little more reasonably priced but a quick google search didn't turn up a definitive price for that
Love the new camera quality, added lighting and ambience of your shop.
thanks a lot!
That was really wonderful to watch! I struggle with miters on non-box items so much that I simply don't bother trying to make boxes at all (my frames/boxes always come out looking shoddy). So thanks! I'll give your tips a go!
Thanks!
almost 10 Minute video to see this advice which is older then the ocean.
It black MDF. Hard to find if you live in the US
I want to sing praises for the band clamps at 6:22. I have one, I use it to make picture frames. It does a great job every time. I tried other techniques, (90 degree clamps) this one is easiest, cheapest, and gets better results than ALL of them
Again a very cool video.
So it is all about setting up the saw correctly. I have learned to take a closer look at my own setup and to give this extra 0.1° to get a closed miter at the edge 😉 Thanks for that.
Thank you for watching!
I imagine wood filling and/or wood glue on the inner ends will help with providing strength to it. Staples also help give extra support.
I make stretch boards for paintings, and also the frame. With the frame I need to be more accurate, however this is an eloquent solution for stretch boards. Thank you.
Lots of respect to you for committing to a response for each comment. I've not seen anyone else do this in my TH-cam experience.
Excellent video as well. I like how clearly laid out the video is and compliments the voice over. It is clear you put much time and effort into your video.
I've just subscribed! 👍
hey, thanks a lot for that - I appreciate it. And thanks for noticing - your the first one to notice.
Loads of comments without replies.
so on the final product @ 8:09 - there's a Go Pro, a flashlight, ???, and charged batteries holder. What's the third thing in the row?
A small screwdriver from hoto
I actually learned something. Thanks and very well done vid and editing
Thank you
Good advice! As an experiment I tried doing white primed architraves but exaggerated and even they fill much nicer with the internal gap rather than the external gap. I then decided I'd set up my saw precisely for any subsequent mitres that would be visible. Much better results!
nice to hear! thanks for watching!
A very well explained video for all to enjoy. Something I would add to the discussion around cutting a 45 degree angle is an error in measuring that creates the need to go "just past" 45 degrees. The digital device used for measuring angles is displaying the angle created between the table saw surface and blade-body instead of between the table saw surface and blade-teeth. As shown in the video, the blade would need to rotate an additional small amount to account for how the teeth extend past the blade-body.
At the same time, a small right-angle was shown on the underside of the blade, leaving a gap at the bottom. Instead of focusing on the gap, a speed square with a 45 degree side can be used to have the blade-teeth just kiss the 45 degree side as they pass by, insuring the underside (or left side, as shown in the video) is now set to 45 degrees at the plane of rotation for the teeth. Both sides should, in theory, then be set to 45 degrees at that point; but, as we often see, where theory meets reality there is frequently a gap, and hence the need for videos like this to help close that gap physically and geometrically.
Thank you!
That is very well explained! I agree - theory doesnt always meet reality but accounting for the teeth is a really god tip!
If you do not have a 3D printer, where can the mitre slot attachment for the gauge be purchased? Thanks!
I've learned to never take advice from a dude with a man bun. Just my rule.
"The screwdriver trick" is known as burnishing and has been used for centuries... A perfectly appropriate operation in mitre joints.
Now then top quality fun video as usual. Excellent voice over and very informative I’m loving it
thanks man! Can't wait to see your videooooohhh!
I just discovered your channel, and now I am filled with an overpowering desire to go obsess over the straightness of my table saw blade. I was gonna watch more of your videos, but now I won't have time... guess I'll have to sub and come back later!
All kidding aside, I appreciate the video and advice. Keep it up!
just want to say, you are doing a good job and i enjoy seeing your videos, keep up the good work
Thanks a lot! I really appreciate it
Great info…
Quick question…
What is the black material you are using to build the project in this video?
Absolutely loved watching this video! First time finding your channel, and you covered so many things I'm interested in (woodworking, table saw, precision, 3D Printing, charing stations!). Subscribed straight away, and am looking forward to checking out your other vids. Great work (and nicely filmed!)
Thanks a lot! Truly appreciate it
If you have a jobsite tablesaw such as the Dewalt DW745 you might notice the miter slots aren't even, they vary in width from front to back, the top surface isn't flat and although you can make some adjustments it's never going to be spot on. Which is why measuring the results of the cut (along with sleds) rather than measuring the machine might be a better approach. Deflection though is still something to consider, depending on density of material. Because of these sort of issues and not having a cabinet saw I've started to cut mine by hand. Thanks for the vid!
I was just in Sweden. Beautiful there. Well done on the charging station!
thanks a lot! Yeah it's really beautiful!
Great video, nicely narrated as well, good work bro!
That charging box looks sleek! :)
Thanks! :)
Great video, if I can offer some comments... 1/10,000 of and inch is 0.0025mm 🙂.
When you kept the dial gauge still and spun the blade, you were actually checking if the blade ran "true" (didn't wobble). I'm thinking you should have slid the gauge (whilst it was in the track) across the face of the blade to check that the blade is parallel to the track.
Very well presented 👍
Good observation, but I'm guessing that he has already done that, and that in his mind everyone one else has done that already as well when they set up their saws. That's the first thing that I do, so I think that he just wants to check for blade wobble which can happen when you overheat/overuse a blade.
I actually thought he was going to build a miter sled which takes care of the issues that most have with them. Instead he built a friggin charging station :-)
Let me be the first to ask you a question: What project are you most proud of? I love your down-to-earth style and videos btw!
Tough question. It might be a recent thing I made with my daughter - it's only posted on my instagram - but we made a bird house together. Thanks a lot!
Negative comments here blow my mind... Someone has taken the time and effort to put together a video for free to try help others.
It shows more shows a lot more than the slight over setting of the angle. And as a bonus you get to see another woodworker's workflow and approach to a task, which if you enjoy woodwork is always interesting and informative.
Nice work!
Hey! Thanks a lot - its really appreciated
I wish this video has been a short of 13 seconds...
Video starts at 5:40 and the trick is to cut the miter slightly acute at 44.9 degrees.
FFS why is this video over 8 min?
First video of yours that has come up for me and I very much like the method of presentation. I’ll watch a couple more and subscribe.
I’ve been woodworking since way before you were born (I’d say I’ve been serious for over 45 years but it’s probably nearer 60 since I first tried the hobby). Everything but everything has changed in that time except for the mental attributes of patience and precision.
A couple of points. Firstly, I don’t trust those angle cubes to be that accurate, I think they state plus or minus 0.2 degrees? Anyway, I might be nuts but I will either use 2 different cubes and hope the average is accurate or test cut. Secondly, I always use an auxiliary, sacrificial fence to back up the piece I’m cutting so that the “off it” doesn’t vary from the desired angle by falling away. Necessary? I think so but I’m not taking the chance!
Hey thanks for contributing what that great advice. I have found the angle cube can be a bit off so using the miter gauge is a second check for me.
Great video, I never thought of under cutting the 45 at 44.9. Make it easier because usually you will not see the inside corner up close. Thanks for sharing.
No problem. Just stay above 44 degrees if your not measuring from 90 like I did in the video :)
I'm here ro claim my free reply and boost the algorithm.
The youtube algorithm and I thank you!
Too many commenters are always trying to tear other woodworkers down. Why are you here if it's just to clown on someone else who's just trying to help others?
Agree. The fellow has knowledge, so just absorb it and shut up.
Sorry to tell you this, but you've gone the wrong way. By going under 45 degrees you will have an opening on the outside of the mitre. You always cut mitres at around 45.5 degrees ish, not 44.9 degrees, this way at 45.5 degrees the outside of the mitre will be touching and the inside may have an extremely tiny gap. You increase the angle to close the outside of the mitre, not decrease.
He's right.
Well if you measure 44.9° from the outside edge then you get a closed outside corner. (This is true, if you disagree you're misunderstanding me)
All depends on your reference, no?
I think we both mean the same thing. The way I have it set up with the angle gauge and the table saw - it's in reverse - thats why I think I said "go a bit further than 45". It measures away from the blade.
It depends on if u start from 0 or 90 degrees. As long u mitre a tiny bit more than 45 from ure zero U'll be fine
Perfectly explained - thanks!
Great miter tips! I will be these into use right away.... can't believe I'm been doing it wrong for so long.
Thanks! Hope it works out
You're shifting the flaw (gap) to the unseen edge. Smart.
I would also add that when you're checking the table saw blade keep in mind that when the motor is running the blade tends to move away from the motor (known as End Play / Run Out), you can measure this with a dial indicator and adjust your cuts to account for it.
5:41 you fine tune it with a dovetail saw, then perfect it with a shooting board.
Wile table saws and power tools are a nice way to get you in the ballpark, all the adjustments you make on the table saw do not correct blade deflection and runout.
Even machinist have to fine tune the last cut. If your splitting hairs you need tools that can split hairs.
Thanks! I think Ill make a shooting board in the future!
As a DIY man, I've done plenty of rough work and have been able to cover things up. Lately I've been building a little more meticulous items and this video came at the right time. I'll start working with the current hand tools I have around the shop, but I'll probably keep the pencil trick in my hat...or behind the ear... or that triangle in the workshop that seems to suck every other tool I'm looking for...
6:20 Why the blue tape on the inside? Is it just to capture the glue?
Precisely. Its hard to sand the inside corners. Might be a bot easier on mdf but usually you have gran running towards the other miter and you cant really sand all the way to the edge
@@TheSwedishMakerNice trick, I'm going to steal it from you 😄
Every comment?!?! That's awesome mate! Oh, and so is your presentation. I kinda thought that's the fix you were aiming at, but you really did present in a highly creative and informational way. Well done!
thanks man! Appreciate it a lot!
There's an additional thing to be careful of when using the digital miter gauge to help tilt the blade to 45° (or 49.9°), one which is a bit hard to describe. I think (but am not sure) that the angle of tilt would be inaccurate if the gauge is twisted with respect to the blade, by not being placed on the blade so the long axis of the gauge lies along (or parallel to) the radius line of the blade extending from the center of the blade to its highest point above the tablesaw top. (Imagine tilting the gauge back when it's on the table saw top, then attaching it to the vertical blade in the same orientation. This would throw off the angle measurement when the blade is tilted.) There is bound to be a clearer way of describing the issue than what I just gave though!
I just use my 1953 Dewalt 14” radial Arm saw. Set the arm to 45 degrees, and cut one side of the miter against the fence to the right of the blade. Then I put a 90 degree fence jig against the fence on the left side of the blade and cut the other mitre on that side with the stock against the 90 degree fence. Because I am cutting either side against the same blade setting, it does not even matter if the arm is out of calibration a degree or two, the left side of the miter will be wider by exactly the same amount the right side is narrow or vice versa… and ALWAYS add up to a perfect 90 as long as the 90 degree fence jig I made is a true 90 degrees. BTW this trick will work for ANY set of repeating mitre angles you need to make by just creating a fence jig that will accurately be the angle you want the two mitre cuts to add up to. Just get the radial’s arm angle close to the halfway angle for appearances sake and this method cuts perfect miters every time.
Great video and awesome advice. Additionally, I love your shop aesthetic / style, so clean and sharp looking with the dark accents. How long did it take you to get your shop space to look this good?
Did it with an ol' makita circular saw this week at dead 45. I think the tight painters tape is the one that actually did the job. And the str8 edge I was using, naturally.
My approach always gets me perfect miters and my thought is why depend on resetting the saw angle. Leave the saw at a perfect 90 and don’t mess with it. I built a 45 degree sled that runs in the track instead. Clamps hold the work in place. I’ve never had a bad miter and no fiddling with the saw angle.
Good tip
I am curious how to achieve the same result on the sliding mitre saw. Please advise. It is very tough to get an angle of 44.9 deg. Accurately and repeatedly.
In germany and other EU countries, the table saw have a setup where the fence ad the backside of the blade is wider than at the front of your blade. This is there to procent back kick when the stock you saw pinches the blade at the backside. Also the cutting is done at the fronside of the blade. The only thing you should adjust is, if the fence at the backside is getting narrower than the front. What you REALY need is the blade front running 90 degre to the fence. And the 44,9 backcut.
Can folks really not figure this out on their own? If you’ve got a table saw, a chop box, christ if you even know what a miter cut is, then you should probably have enough curiosity and ambition to try a few different angles. Good video though man.
Would you also use a digital angle gauge on a track saw? I dont have a table saw.
On the track saw you hopefully get good measurements from the factory and can do a bit more than 45 degrees on it.
That charging wall is super cool. Greetings from Nashville, TN!
hey! thanks a lot! it does actually do the trick for me right now
How is the 3D printing business doing? Will you continue selling 3D printed products?
I havent actually started it up again since moving. There's been to much to do. Im not sure at this point If I will start it up again. thank for watching!
Is that black wood or some sort of composite?
Composite Euro particle board. Lousy with screws, the dust is pure poison, and a drop of water and it's mush.
I suppose it kind of depends how your digital angle gauge handles rounding. When it goes from 90 to 45, is 45 actually 45.000° or could it be 45.049?
Perhaps going 90 to 44.9 then up to 45 will actually be correct way to do it?
I actually haven't tried that, but I will for sure. It might depend on the angle gauge somewhat and therefor - the mitre gauge might be the easiest way of getting slightly less than a 45 degree mitre.
At 6:32 I can see that you taped the inside corners, is that done to ensure that the glue squeeze out can be removed by pulling the tape away? Ingenious trick
you got it. glue squeeze out on the inside is harder to get out and the tape can just be removed - especially useful for hard wood where it gets really hard to sand with the grain on the inside of a box
I found this interesting enough that I was at 7 min before I realized that you had tried to sell me like 6 products
already.
Not too bad at all.
Very nice, like the custom-looking pegboard. Is the angle cube only magnetic on the bottom?
thanks! no its magnetic on the sides as well
Great! Just ordered one from your link, my wife wants picture frames for Christmas@@TheSwedishMaker
Wouldn't it be more astetic to use black wood stain instead of spray paint? What are the benefits?
Long mitres work so well with the track saw as the weight is all on the product. Or a clamp down jig for the panel saw. Either way you are spot on by having a tiny gap on the inside. The way I see it is that it’s somewhere for the glue to go so it doesn’t force the front out
very true - long miters on the track saw is really the way to go
How do you find the power on that table saw? Does it bog down at all? I have the fusion 2 110V and it is horribly underpowered! Also, very nice video:)
I haven't had any power problems yet, but it does have 3hp 220V - so I don't think it should. Thank you!
I have my dad's old saw at the cottage. He always ran it with a 3/4 HP motor. We had a flood and it killed the motor. This year the only motor I had around was a Leason 1/2 hp motor off the mini lathe. It is a substantial motor in size, but still only rated at 1/2 HP. Took everything I pushed at it, which did not include 3" hard maple. Some stuff will require lots of power, but for the stuff I was doing around the shop this summer, it was no big deal. Conversely, if the 3HP motor I had on my General 10 inch wasn't happy it could throw a block with enough force to kill you. 1.5 HP is a good compromise.
So funny we in the prefinished trim installation industry (cabinet and hardwood trim installation have been over cutting outside corners and under cutting inside corners for years One reason is to keep the outside edge tight when the wood changes due to drying out.
Great video thank you.
One thing I want to check at 5:30. The audio said reset the angle to 0 but the video shows it starting at 90.
One way round would mean setting the blade to 50.1 and the other 49.9.
I could use trial and error, but would rather get it right first time.
yes the audio was a bit delayed to what was happening. first reset to 0 when the gauge is at the flat surface of the table. Then place it on the blade. Now it starts from 90 degrees and you can take it down to 44.9. Otherwise it would have been 45.1
If you deliberately introduce a gap to the joint aren’t you significantly reducing the strength of the joint because the two surfaces will not fully touch each other because of the deliberate gap???? Please respond if I am incorrect
You would find using Mylar packing tape on the corner is a better solution especially on long miters. Its main advantage is it does not stretch. The downside is it may pull some grain and require additional sanding. 3m 375 is the preferred tape professionally.
Good luck!
Ill try that tape
do you 3d print those hangers here: 7:45 or have a link to them?
Great, and very timely (for me) tip, as I am in the process of making several new projects that require using a 45° miter! However, a few of them will have both the outside and inside corners visible... Any good tips on how to make both edges as tight as possible? I know I'm 4 months late on seeing this video, but I'm still hoping that you'll keep answering all questions as you stated 🤣
3:27, you just jumped tracks. Rotating the blade is for runout and sliding the gauge along a track is for making the blade parallel to the tracks.
true.
great video, i'll have to try this! what kind of wood is that? never seen black wood.
I liked it. And, the precision of the angles is really important if you do want to make highly precise miter cuts. So, I did not find it too long for the issues involved. Thanks!
😊
True!
Burnishing the edge ia fine for moulding, but it only works on the edge and not the face. Plus.. in cabinetry we expect a bit more than trim carpentry, thats really only a step above framers anyway.
agreed!
Tusen takk for kjempebra video!!! Kult tips og masse inspirasjon! FØLGER!!😀😎
If you do mitres with a mitre saw the cut piece doesn't slide into the blade and problem is solved. Tablesaw requires grip on both pieces, that's tricky. With mitresaw you can just secure it down on both ends.
that's true!
What kinda hooks do you use with peg board? Special or just Home Depot or smt. You just zip tying your wires to the peg holes?
I just learned from Jonathan Katz Moses, who learned this from Stumpy Noob, to cut the mitres on a router table using a 45 degree router bit (making sure it is big enough for the thickness of your material). Going to try this the next time I need mitred corners.
Im def trying that as well. Seems like a good idea.
There are 91 degree router bits especially made to do this.
nice job! could you tell me please what kind of black wood you used in this video ? Sorry i am new woodworker
How accurate is the Banggood measuring gauge? I have had problems with Chinese made woodworking products.
The Hong Dui one is meant to be very good. Thing is it’s still relatively expensive when purchased with the fence.
It works well for me. The gauge is a pretty simple device so it depends on how fine of adjustments it shows.
Thanks I might give it a try,.
@@TheSwedishMaker
I enjoyed this video. Thanks! Question: What is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow?
thanks a lot! I'll say it's fast enough to beat me in a race - unless it's carrying coconuts, of course! 🐦💨
You not only told us how to achieve the perfect result, but also **why** the other methods do not achieve it, and I value that a lot. Thank you!!
Thanks! Appreciate it
Great video. Very informative. My only question is, when squaring the miter guage it seems to me it would improve accuracy if all angles were set from the same reference point. Since the miter slot is immovable, it makes more sense to set your 90 from there to avoid compounding misalignment between the guage and the blade.
that makes sense. I´ll try it
You are 100% correct, tweeterfire. Another thing that can go wrong checking against the blade is that sawblades are not exactly flat. That is the reason we choose a single spot on the blade to indicate against when adjusting the parallelism of the miter slots to the blade. So much easier to set the gauge with your most accurate square tucked against the bar and the fence, tighten and you are done.
Great video! What is the black material you are working with? Thank you!
Thank you, How about the inside corner though? Does it reveal a smal crack? I’m going to try this method.
Nice video. What is the material you are cutting? Looks like Richlite.
Its valchromat - coloured through mdf
It's called a coffin cut...
Really nicely produced video... Fun to watch, keeps my attention 👍👍